From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 5:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3092

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Fraudulent ebay listings
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

2. RE: Transmission Clearance
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

3. Re: Drive the dream?
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

4. Rule of 20
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

5. Re: Drive the dream?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. Re: Ye Olde Door light/buzzer switch
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Re: Drive the dream?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Transmission Clearance
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:12:22 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fraudulent ebay listings

Hey, wanna sell your DeLorean on eBay?  Make the auction look like a fraud and Joe will give you $50K for it!!!

Joe, is that how you ended up with 3 DeLoreans?  lol


Gus Schlachter
Vin #4695
Austin TX


> I usually always ruin these auctions myself. They stand out like a 
> sore thumb. I immediately kill the auction by bidding like $50,000 on 
> them evey time, shortly after they are gone or shut down by eBay.
> 
> -Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524,
> 16634,
> 16851


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 19:19:12 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Transmission Clearance

I did it in the garage on 4 3 ton jack stands all the way up... mostly by my self.  if your strong and you drain it well you can usually muscle it down using a small jack and doing a balancing act.  I don't remember it being vary hard but you will need more than 2 universal joints, several extensions a few wrenches, and possibly a dremal and a chisel.  it helps to loosen the motor mounts and jack up on the drivers side of the engine.  there are a couple of plates that are very difficult to remove and one of them has a wire going to it.  because of a failed previous try by the PO (I think) most of the bolts were rounded or otherwise  mangled.  I ended up destroying both plates and most of the bolts but have had no adverse issued due to their absence.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of schab932000
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 7:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Transmission Clearance


I'm going to be replacing my clutch in the offseason... a job I'll being doing in my own garage, with the car up on jacks. Can anyone give me an idea of how much clearance I'll need from the garage floor to the bottom of the car to be able to fully remove the transmission. 1 Feet, 2 feet, 3 feet or more? I'm assuming a transmission jack is something that scoots on the floor and I'm not sure how high that is well, but I'll need to figure that in as well.

Thanks everyone.

Pat
vin 5443







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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 00:38:24 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Drive the dream?

Hi all

Steve here in the UK, the Delorean frames were made litteraly a couple of miles away at GKN.

i agree, over here we are for repairing rather than scrapping.
i would say that a frame would need to be in an appaling state to be scrapped.
Even badly rusted, with time and effort could be put right.
Particularly with the frame off.

and i don't want to buck the trend here but....sometimes when you want something you have to stick your neck out and go for it.
i did with mine...paid $7k and shipped to the UK, a non-runner.

now runs of sorts, (have an idle problem), great panels (no dents).
i have reconned calipers, new disc/pads, rebuilt clutch cylinders (both), brake lines, fuel tank/pump/boot.

now it can be done on a tighter budget if you can wait and scour ebay etc for second hand parts

for me if i had waited till i had $25k to spend on a classic car, i would never have got there (as the wife will always find something to spend it on!)

i'm glad i did even though at the moment she drives 100 yards, (but i'll soon have her sorted!) John Delorean built his dream, against all the non-believers and doubters at that time so for me i'm happy to have one of his cars in my garage, and bit by bit can't wait to drive here down the UK roads, where i have never seen another.

All the best

Steve





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Dan wrote:
> > You didn't even mention the condition of the frame. If it's
rusted
> > under the epoxy coating, then it's a parts car, period.
> >
> >
> I don't really agree with this statement. It really depends on the 
> amount of rust and location. As long as the issues are cured
before they
> become major, I think scrapping the entire car is probably a little 
> extreme. Now if the frame has portions rusted completely through,
then
> yes.. I could agree then, though even decent condition frames can
be had
> without too much trouble if that is the only major thing wrong
with the
> car. Not to mention that a lot of times rusted sections can be cut
out
> and replaced.
> 
> 
> --
> Chris
> VIN# 3209
> http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
>









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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 01:06:17 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Rule of 20

Seems a hot topic these days, the real cost of the car.  Some still use the Rule of 20:  add what you pay, plus repairs and refurbishment, it will come to $20,000.  So if you pay $12,000, it will cost $8,000 on top of that.  If you pay $15,000, it will cost $5,000 on top of that.  Based on everyone I know, have talked to, my personal experience with two cars, and reading this and other online discussions, I'd like to throw on the table that the rule of 20 no longer applies.  Actually, any "rule" should really be two rules, one for those who have the skills and capability to do the work themselves, and one for those without those skills and have to get it worked on at a shop.  Two entirely different cost structures.  There can't be only "one" rule.  My view is it should be the "Rule of 22/27".  While your heart may want to stick to the Rule of 20, hard economics must be recognized.  And it seems the downside (unexpected higher costs) really outweigh the upside (coming in under budget).







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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 00:26:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Drive the dream?

I can't speak about the rules in other States, but in New Jersey when a car (and the Title) has a lien on it the Lienholder is sent the Title when issued. Of course this doesn't always stop everyone. I guess if the owner files for a "lost" title they might get one but it does still list the Lienholder. It is then up to the owner to send it to the Lienholder to get it marked "Paid In Full" (if in fact it was).
Anyone who buys a car with a Lienholder listed on the Title that has not been "Paid In Full" may find that they will have to satisfy the lien. The buyer *MAY* have recourse against the seller. In most States the seller of an automobile MUST legally certify to the mileage AND INDEMNIFY THE BUYER AGAINST ANY LIENS OR CLAIMS AGAINST THE CAR! As a buyer you must become familiar with the laws in your State. If you present a Title to your local DMV with a lien on it they probably will NOT issue a Title to you until you can prove the lien is satisfied.
Without a Title you cannot register. Without registration you can't drive it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> biojerm wrote:
> > on a side note, the car had been sitting on blocks from first 
> > owner..someone purchased it, then drove it from florida to texas, 
> > then










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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:03:14 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Ye Olde Door light/buzzer switch

Johnny,
you may need to replace your rubber door gaskets, this will firm up your door closing problem.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
>I've noticed my  driver's side gullwing switch shakes a lot when 
>driving down a bumpy  road or a freeway. The door stays shut 
>thankfully! But, this in turn  causes the internal lights in my car to 
>flash on and off, providing  me a rather unhealthy distraction esp. 
>while driving at night. I  tried tightening up the screws and 
>disconnecting/reconnecting the  plugs, but I can't seem to get her to 
>stay firmly connected.







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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 16:49:55 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Drive the dream?

On 1/23/06, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
> Saying someone can't afford a delorean just because they aren't rich 
> enough is just mean. You can own one on a $30k/yr salary. Either you 
> can buy a cheap one, and fix it yourself knowing you'll have about 
> $20k in it when your done, or you can get a loan and buy one in good 
> shape to begin with and just make payments on it like you would with 
> any other car.

Owning a car that is 2/3rds of your yearly salary is financially irresponsible. Period. I know people do it all the time, but if you told a financial planner he'd probably have a heart attack. Anybody who has aspirations of retiring with dignity at a reasonable age would not make such a foolish mistake.

If you have to engage in financial irresponsibility to own something, "You can't afford it." Yeah, you can work your way into a DeLorean on $30k a year. Heck, you could do it on half that. That doesn't make it a good idea. Buying a classic or other specialty/exotic automobile on credit is likewise a terrible idea. I'd highly advise anyone to pay cash for their DeLorean and it's needs or don't buy it.

These are not the ramblings of some elitist jerk. Well, actually they are, but that's beside the point. It's simply good financial advice with a healthy dose of common sense. What happens when a DeLorean suddenly needs a couple grand worth of work? That day will come and if someone is living on $30k, making $300 a month car payments at 8% interest (good luck getting a loan for a 1981 vehicle at a lower rate), it's going to be a tough sell. So the car will sit in neglect because the owner can't afford to care for it. Eventually he will sell it for a fraction of what he has into it and the dream will be lost.
It happens all the time in this community. Where do you think the $7,500 DeLorean comes from? It's someone's lost dream.

But don't let me tell anyone how to manage their finances, because I'm not like "normal" people who have loads of consumer debt, live paycheck to paycheck and finance cars. If you want to be normal, follow the advice of normal people and pretend us successful folks are just mean or don't know what we're talking about. Just remember that I once supported a family on much less than $30k a year, so I'm not knocking your income. I've been in your shoes and if things went to hell I could find myself there again - and I'd sell my DeLorean in a second.

-Ryan


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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:04:15 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Clearance

Pat,

I bought a relatively cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight
(here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178).
It works great. You will need a tranny jack, don't do this with a standard floor jack. Spend the $50 to $100 it takes for the proper equipment.

Clearance - you need to get the car up pretty high. ~2 feet minimum.
The car must be up on both ends and be relatively level, so you can't just jack the back up and get this job done. Putting a car onto 4 jack stands is dangerous and most jack stand manufacturers specifically tell you NOT to do this. So if you do it anyway, be very careful. Go slow. Use large, overrated jack stands. Leave the jack under there, too, for extra support. If you take one of the rear tires off that will give you extra clearance to pull the transmission out from under the car; throw the tire under the car for yet another added measure of safety.

I didn't find this to be a terribly difficult job once I got the car safely up high enough. I'd really rather do this with a lift, though, and am hoping to buy one before I have to do any other major repairs.
The safety factor alone is worth the price.

BTW, I'm VIN 5447. We're almost brothers. ;-)

-Ryan

On 1/23/06, schab932000 <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm going to be replacing my clutch in the offseason... a job I'll 
> being doing in my own garage, with the car up on jacks. Can anyone 
> give me an idea of how much clearance I'll need from the garage floor 
> to the bottom of the car to be able to fully remove the transmission. 
> 1 Feet, 2 feet, 3 feet or more? I'm assuming a transmission jack is 
> something that scoots on the floor and I'm not sure how high that is 
> well, but I'll need to figure that in as well.


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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