From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3096

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: A odditity parts question.
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: Windshield replacement?
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

3. Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean (again)
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

4. Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

5. Re: Windshield replacement?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. windshield washer nozzle
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>

7. Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Re: Rule of 20 (now Rule of 25)
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Re: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

10. Re: A odditity parts question.
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

11. Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Mirror modifications
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. RE: Re: copper washer for oil sending unit - new question
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

16. Re: Mirror modifications
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. Re: A odditity parts question.
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: copper washer for oil sending unit - new question
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

20. Re: Mirror modifications
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: Mirror modifications
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Replacement Door Not Flush with Sheet Metal Body
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. 25th anniversary logo for DCS
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?
From: "John" <silversurfer_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. Gold plated DeLorean
From: Faded N Jaded <fadednjaded_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 22:24:56 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: A odditity parts question.

The distributor pickup goes to the ignition amplifier - that then feeds the idlespeed ECU, RPM relay, Coil and rev counter. If it's on the way out, your idle will start misbehaving and the rev counter may start going funny.

Martin

Jeremiah Montee wrote:

>Part # 102688.
>
>The tachometer wire that goes to the electrical distributor.  
>Obviously, it functions the tachometer, but what else does this wire 
>do?  What would be the signs/symptoms of this wire failing/starting to 
>go bad?  Mine is wrapped in waht looks like 3-5 layers of 
>electrical/duct tape so it's about time to properly replace this wire, 
>but I'd like to know basically what I'm fixing and the problems I'm 
>avoiding by replacing this wire entirely.  Thank you for your time.
>
>Jeremiah
>
>  
>






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:43:54 -0500
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield replacement?

When I had my windshield replaced last year I found that the urethane that was supposed to hold it in and help cushion the glass was very thin near the bottom by the passenger side clip.

It was obvious that the bead had not been in contact with the glass since it was new. That is exactly where a crack developed.

Mike Walsh
#17084 





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:49:01 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean (again)

This is the material I used to cover the entire floor pan and the rear shelf. Its not cheap but does reduce the noise infiltration into the passenger compartment. http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html

Dave Sontos

> Now I'm looking for a good quality sound deadener but nothing 
> outrageous in price.  I'd also like to know of any other brands that 
> others have tried (doesn't have to be only in a D) but a brand they 
> could vouch for.
> Brandon
> Vin 3323






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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:46:08 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean

This is the material I used over the entire floor pan and on the rear shelf. 
Its not cheap but you do get the desired results.

Dave Sontos

> Before I finish running all the wiring, I would like to add some sound 
> deadening material to inside of the Fiberglass body to help quiet 
> things down so I can install a nice stereo or DVD system (possibly).
>
> Now I'm looking for a good quality sound deadener but nothing 
> outrageous in price.  I'd also like to know of any other brands that 
> others have tried (doesn't have to be only in a D) but a brand they 
> could vouch for.
> Brandon
> Vin 3323







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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 02:12:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield replacement?

The "A" pillar trim can't really be properly replaced unless you remove the windshield. They can be recovered and reinstalled, you don't have to actually replace them. You can get the vinyl covering and recover them or you can redie them with spray. The glass guy should know what to do. Make sure he does not glue the rear view mirrior on, it is supposed to be installed with special double-stick tape. Depending on the system the glass guy uses he generally must get the surfaces very clean, prime the fiberglass AND the windshield, place the heated bead of glue, and then fit the windshield and hit it right on the first try. The car can't be driven for a couple of hours till the glue cools and sets so it is best done at your home.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> I'm going to have a local installer put in my new windshield.  I'm 
> going to replace the A pillar trim at the same time.  The service 
> manual indicates that the pillar trims can be replaced without the 
> windshield and this contradicts what I understand.
> 
> 







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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 02:32:37 -0000
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>
Subject: windshield washer nozzle

Hello list I am in desperate need of a new windshield washer nozzle, the piece that goes on the wiper arm that squirts the water. Mine is missing and I tried to order from dmc houston, but it is not available. I just fixed my washer motor but with out a nozzle it just squirts clear over the car. Anyone know where I can get one? 

Thanks,
Justin
16579







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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:58:02 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean

 I have a sound deadening kit that is supplied to John Hervey that works pretty well.  We have about 30 of these kits out there already.  
The back is a large piece of foam that really deadens sound and the rubber mats also work quite well.
 
If someone is interested in a special fit kit you can e-mail me or John and we can come up with what you need.   
 
Price of course will be determined on how much of what material you need.
 
The material can also be easily cut with a razor knife so you can just order raw material (it comes in 32-36 in widths) and you can cut it yourself if you wish
 
I have three different materials and thicknesses but can get most in other thicknesses as well
 
 
Ken
 
-----Original Message-----
From: brandelorean <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 18:36:40 -0000
Subject: [DML] Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean


Hey Everyone, 

Back from vacation and am ready to start working on the D again.  

I am at the point where I'm finishing up all my wiring connection clean-up and am finishing up the wiring for the Wings Aloft Elite alarm system.  

Before I finish running all the wiring, I would like to add some sound deadening material to inside of the Fiberglass body to help quiet things down so I can install a nice stereo or DVD system (possibly).  

Now I'm looking for a good quality sound deadener but nothing outrageous in price.  I'd also like to know of any other brands that others have tried (doesn't have to be only in a D) but a brand they could vouch for.  

It's atleast a $100 or more investment which is fine but I don't want to get screwed by the many EBAY type copycats of Dynamat.  

Can anyone offer me any good companies?

Thanks

Brandon
Vin 3323








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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 13:42:03 -0800
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rule of 20 (now Rule of 25)

I would have to agree with Rich.

When I bought my D in 2000 I was seeing labor rates of around $60/hour. 
Now I'm being quoted $90 - $100. This will certainly exaggerate the price to restore a beater to something that is usable.

In my limited experience, working with just one car, even $25K is a conservative figure

Jeff
VIN 3034

d_rex_2002 wrote:
> I think its probably time to change this to the Rule of 25.
>
> The Rule of 20 has been around for several years, so with the DeLorean 
> 25th Anniversary this year, I think most of us could remember making a 
> change to the Rule of 25 (as a low average) to adjust for economics 
> and some new standardized labor rates.
>
> Of course, those who perform most of the labor themselves may complete 
> cars at significantly lower total cost, there will be those who will 
> also have the work done for them or go beyond a refurbishing project, 
> to a complete restore, costing much more.
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
>  
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_m...> wrote:
>   
>> Seems a hot topic these days, the real cost of the car.  Some
>>     
> still
>   
>> use the Rule of 20:  add what you pay, plus repairs and
>>     
> refurbishment,
>   
>> it will come to $20,000.  So if you pay $12,000, it will cost
>>     
> $8,000
>   
>> on top of that.  If you pay $15,000, it will cost $5,000 on top of 
>> that.  Based on everyone I know, have talked to, my personal 
>> experience with two cars, and reading this and other online 
>> discussions, I'd like to throw on the table that the rule of 20 no 
>> longer applies.
>>
>> snip <
>>     
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>   






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 01:25:22 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?

Hi

My DeLorean will start on the first try every time regardless of the temperature of the engine and the weather. It always takes less than a second to start the engine. Regardless if it was sitting for one minute or three months. Once it starts it never dies. I never touch the gas when starting. When it's cool outside and the engine is cold it will hunt at idle for a moment but I don't really know how long because I never let it idle when cold. The best for the engine is to start driving as soon as the engine is running and I do that every time. The colder the weather and engine the more apparent the hunting is.
It didn't run like this when I got it. I replaced a lot of parts including all the relays, o-rings in the engine, ALL vacuum lines, installed platinum tipped spark plugs (as per the owners manual), etc.
The car runs perfectly ever since I did that and I believe this is what every DeLorean should start and run like.

Greetings from Poland!

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com




----- Original Message -----
>> My DeLorean is in pretty good tune. I have 8400 original miles on it.
>> It was well within CA emissions standards (as of 2 years ago) and I 
>> get approx 20mpg with no excessive hunting at idle. I was wondering 
>> what kind of starting nuances various owners experiences with their 
>> cars. Mine starts practically instantly - within 1 second of key turn 
>> without touching the accelerator pedal regardless of whether it was






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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 00:13:09 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: A odditity parts question.

I can tell you that if this wire fails, or momentarily loses continuity, your engine will stop.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
>
> Part # 102688.
> 
> The tachometer wire that goes to the electrical distributor.  
> Obviously, it functions the tachometer, but what else does this wire 
> do?  What would be the signs/symptoms of this wire failing/starting to 
> go bad?  Mine is wrapped in waht looks like 3-5 layers of 
> electrical/duct tape so it's about time to properly replace this wire, 
> but I'd like to know basically what I'm fixing and the problems I'm 
> avoiding by replacing this wire entirely.  Thank you for your time.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 05:50:10 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?

My DeLorean dies only once in cold weather when it's been sitting for several hours. I turn the key and she starts, then stalls. I give it a little boost with the gas pedal and she starts right up. I often warm her up for at least 5 min. or so because she idles a tad rough at first. After running/driving for a short while, she's fine. For some reason I only seem to get about 17mpg (estimated) and I have a little white smoke coming out of my right tailpipe. Do you guys think that my car is running a little rich or something? I should be getting 20- 23mpg.
-John R.
Romeo, Michigan
#10715







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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 05:49:27 -0000
From: "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?

Sounds like your fuel accumulator is dying.

Simply taken from when you say you park it at a friends house, and a short while later it starts, but runs crappy for a while, then once it gets going, everything is fine.

The incline at your friends house isn't the problem, just fuel pressure leakage dur to the bad accumulator.

Have you replaced the original accumulator yet? As these are dead on symptoms of a  dead accumulator.


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851










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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:12:11 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Mirror modifications

Hello all :)
When I first purchased my D, it came with a convex mirror glued to the 
driver's side rear view mirror. It's about the size of a small drink 
coaster. I'm pretty sure this wasn't stock, but it helps immensely due 
to the DeLorean's low height, and with blind spots. Anyone else tried 
something like this? Also, my internal rear view mirror's spring broke 
inside it and I had to jam it in daylight position so I can view out 
the back louvers properly. Is there any way to fix that or does one 
have to get a new mirror? I just re-glued it back on with DMC's mirror 
glue. (had to be scraped off with a razor! *squeeeeak-shudder*)
Johnny
#10715







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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:57:06 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?


> hunting - warm I have almost no hunting at all.  If my
> car sits for about a month, it will fire/die once,
> than it will fire successfully the second time; I
> would say that's "normal" for a DeLorean.  I have no
> issues with the car being inclining or declining -
<snip>

Well, the dying is not at all "normal" for the DeLorean.  Mine starts 
quickly all the time, in any temperature, and never dies.  To get it that 
way did require some parts (accumulator and an RPM relay just for good 
measure).  There could be lots of thing that cause that; I would start with 
the usual check for vacuum leaks, microswitches, fuel pressure, injectors, 
etc.  Of course, I don't think Jeremiah or switzel need to worry about being 
stranded anytime soon.  For switzel, I would suggest starting in the tank. 
The tank is the only spot that should really be affected by slope.  Maybe 
you're choking up some air when on the incline?  If your accumulator is 
original, definitely replace that first.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 16:46:08 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: copper washer for oil sending unit - new question

I'm about to replace mine, do I need to drain the oil first?  I assume
that if it is a low oil level sensor that it sits fairly low in the sump
cavity... 





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...>
wrote:
>
> On the driver's side above the oil pan is the Oil Pressure Sending 
> Unit (?) that has a 23 mm plug. Mine is leaking and I think there
is a 
> copper washer/o-ring there. Does anyone know if these can be picked
up 
> at the auto stores or give me other information on type to get?
> 
> Shannon
>










To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 07:30:43 -0500
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mirror modifications

I put on the "Extended Convex Mirrors" from www.deloreana.com and they 
are awesome! (Thanks Tom) they are all single piece with the outer edge 
being the convex part so that they basically look stock, and you don't 
have the little cheesy disk stuck on the existing mirror.

Michael

John Rydholm wrote:
> Hello all :)
> When I first purchased my D, it came with a convex mirror glued to the 
> driver's side rear view mirror. It's about the size of a small drink 
> coaster. I'm pretty sure this wasn't stock, but it helps immensely due 
> to the DeLorean's low height, and with blind spots. Anyone else tried 
> something like this? <snip>
>   





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:24:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A odditity parts question.

Jeremiah,
  According to the wiring diagram (do you have one of these,
  it should be in your manual)
  the wire is white and slate and comes off of #132 (coil)
  then splits four ways, one going to the #132 ignition control unit
  one going to the #108 idlespeed relay
  one going to the #109 R.P.M. relay
  and one going up to #270 Tach.
   
  Hope this helps
   
  Jamie Hamlin
  Ft. Walton Beach, Fl.
  Vin#2606
  Vin#5677

Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
  Part # 102688.

The tachometer wire that goes to the electrical
distributor. Obviously, it functions the tachometer,
but what else does this wire do? What would be the
signs/symptoms of this wire failing/starting to go
bad? Mine is wrapped in waht looks like 3-5 layers of
electrical/duct tape so it's about time to properly
replace this wire, but I'd like to know basically what
I'm fixing and the problems I'm avoiding by replacing
this wire entirely. Thank you for your time.

Jeremiah

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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 16:08:14 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: copper washer for oil sending unit - new question

No. Its a low pressure switch, not a low level switch. It's an oil 
pump pressure connection, if the engine is off, nothing will come 
out. 

If you are replacing the switch make sure that the copper washer is the right size - it should be a very close fit as you slide it over the threads. I've seen some around provided with a washer that's just a bit too big, and they leak like crazy because it won't seal agains the block. Also be sure NOT to loosen the back nut that the wire attaches to, that's a very common leak point and it's difficult to tighten as there's no where to grab the back side. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_B...> wrote:
>
> I'm about to replace mine, do I need to drain the oil first?  I 
assume
> that if it is a low oil level sensor that it sits fairly low in the 
sump
> cavity... 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...>
> wrote:
> >
> > On the driver's side above the oil pan is the Oil Pressure 
Sending 
> > Unit (?) that has a 23 mm plug. Mine is leaking and I think there
> is a 
> > copper washer/o-ring there. Does anyone know if these can be 
picked
> up 
> > at the auto stores or give me other information on type to get?
> > 
> > Shannon








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 18:35:21 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?

Unusual.. The accumulator was replaced along with most of the fuel
system 4000 miles ago with all new parts (not NOS) I agree that it's a
fuel pressure issue. Perhaps I need a new o-ring in the fuel
distributor. I don't think I replaced that.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mingovw" <mingovw_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like your fuel accumulator is dying.
> 
> Simply taken from when you say you park it at a friends house, and a 
> short while later it starts, but runs crappy for a while, then once it 
> gets going, everything is fine.
> 
> The incline at your friends house isn't the problem, just fuel 
> pressure leakage dur to the bad accumulator.
> 
> Have you replaced the original accumulator yet? As these are dead on 
> symptoms of a  dead accumulator.
> 
> 
> -Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524,
> 16634,
> 16851
>








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 16:51:23 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Mirror modifications

These are quite easy to buy over here and I have one on both sides, 
though mine are the little rectangular ones. Excellent aid on the 
motorway, being left-hand drive and not having brilliant three-quarter 
vision anyway, especially at night

Mirror glue?! Erk. The little sticky pads are easy to buy here too. 
They're -meant- to fall off if you hit them, to prevent the windscreen 
breaking.

Martin
UK

John Rydholm wrote:

>Hello all :)
>When I first purchased my D, it came with a convex mirror glued to the 
>driver's side rear view mirror. It's about the size of a small drink 
>coaster. I'm pretty sure this wasn't stock, but it helps immensely due 
>to the DeLorean's low height, and with blind spots. Anyone else tried 
>something like this? Also, my internal rear view mirror's spring broke 
>inside it and I had to jam it in daylight position so I can view out 
>the back louvers properly. Is there any way to fix that or does one 
>have to get a new mirror? I just re-glued it back on with DMC's mirror 
>glue. (had to be scraped off with a razor! *squeeeeak-shudder*)
>Johnny
>#10715
>
>
>  
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 08:35:39 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mirror modifications

John,

> When I first purchased my D, it came with a convex mirror glued to the
> driver's side rear view mirror. It's about the size of a small drink
> coaster. I'm pretty sure this wasn't stock, but it helps immensely due
> to the DeLorean's low height, and with blind spots. Anyone else tried
> something like this?

My D came with convex mirrors glued to the left & right outside
mirrors. I hated them, but the stock mirrors were terrible and left
blind spots big enough to hide an 18 wheeler.

My solution was a set of heated convex mirrors from Tom in Poland:
http://www.deloreana.com/16901.html

They are very nice.

-Ryan


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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 11:23:27 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Replacement Door Not Flush with Sheet Metal Body

 Hi All,
  Does anyone have experience with or know how to adjust the car door or adjacent  sheet metal, driver's side especially, to sit flush/even with the rest of the Delorean  body?  The driver's door had to be replaced on  my Delorean and the shop did not make the door sit flush/in-line with the rest  of the car body, by 1/8" to 1/4", especially the roof area.  The door operates fine, but looks like it is  never closed all the way, especially when looking across the roof from the  passenger side of the car.  Thanks for  any advice!             Mike
  #5781
    

				
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 10:14:45 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: 25th anniversary logo for DCS

Hi we are highlighting the 25th anniversary of the Delorean and there  will 
be a number of items available at the show from DCS for the 25th  anniversary.
 
To begin with I know some of you have had a sneak preview on Tamirs site  and 
on the DCO site of the new logo.  It was done by Shannon with some help  from 
a lot of people but Shannon did come up with this great logo.
 
We had about 50 ideas and this is the winner.
 
Thanks to all that helped.
 
The Logo will be available on T-shirts on the DeLorean car show  registration 
and store in a few days. I need to get the info to Gary and get it  up on the 
web.
 
So by early Feb we should be ready for you to order your shirts.
 
They will be the usual $10 per shirt and there will be no extra charge for  
2x and 3x 
Sorry I do not have larger sizes.  If you order on the registration  page you 
will receive them at the show.  If you order them through the  store you can 
get them any time but a shipping charge will be added.
 
Ken
 
 


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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 16:34:25 -0000
From: "John" <silversurfer_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: How well do your DeLoreans start?

You mention that "The best for the engine is to start driving as soon 
as the engine is running and I do that every time".
I've never heard that before? Anyone else?

John

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi
> 
> My DeLorean will start on the first try every time regardless of 
the 
> temperature of the engine and the weather. It always takes less 
than a 
> second to start the engine. Regardless if it was sitting for one 
minute or 
> three months. Once it starts it never dies. I never touch the gas 
when 
> starting. When it's cool outside and the engine is cold it will 
hunt at idle 
> for a moment but I don't really know how long because I never let 
it idle 
> when cold. The best for the engine is to start driving as soon as 
the engine 
> is running and I do that every time. The colder the weather and 
engine the 
> more apparent the hunting is.
> It didn't run like this when I got it. I replaced a lot of parts 
including 
> all the relays, o-rings in the engine, ALL vacuum lines, installed 
platinum 
> tipped spark plugs (as per the owners manual), etc.
> The car runs perfectly ever since I did that and I believe this is 
what 
> every DeLorean should start and run like.
> 
> Greetings from Poland!
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6149 (in Poland!)
> tomciodmc_at_dml_p...
> www.deloreana.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> >> My DeLorean is in pretty good tune. I have 8400 original miles 
on it.
> >> It was well within CA emissions standards (as of 2 years ago) 
and I
> >> get approx 20mpg with no excessive hunting at idle. I was 
wondering
> >> what kind of starting nuances various owners experiences with 
their
> >> cars. Mine starts practically instantly - within 1 second of key 
turn
> >> without touching the accelerator pedal regardless of whether it 
was
>









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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 14:30:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Faded N Jaded <fadednjaded_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Gold plated DeLorean

For anyone who might be interested, there is currently a gold plated DeLorean at Harrahs automobile museum in Reno, Nevada.
   
  They said it is a car which was on display in a bank in Texas.


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