From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3101

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean TV sighting
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Door Seal Lubricant
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

3. Re: Contro Pressure Regulator
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Door Seal Lubricant?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Battery condition
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Deloreans magazine
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

7. Re: Door Seal Lubricant
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. AW: Battery condition
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

9. RE: Re: DeLorean TV sighting
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

10. Eurofest Dive Trip
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Battery condition
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: Battery condition
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

13. Door Replacement
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. DMC Factory and Test Track
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Toby Tabs
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: Toby Tabs
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

17. Re: Battery condition
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

18. Re: Deloreans magazine
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

19. Re: Re: DeLorean TV sighting
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

20. Re: Deloreans magazine
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. RE: Re: Toby Tabs
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Battery condition
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 00:10:33 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean TV sighting

Forum,

If the plate was Wisconsin instead of California, that would be Mark V. with the NEXTIME plate.  Mark did participate in the Hot Rod Power Tour, so my guess is that this was probably him.
The DeLorean was one I partially refurbished in 2000 and drove to the Cleveland show, where JZD stood between two of my D's to take a picture. (photo is in the gallery on DeLoreanCarShow.com)

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
>
> Just turned on the TV to the Hot Rod TV show titled Power tour 1.  
There is
> a shot of a DeLorean with the doors up driving by with a
California plate of
> NEXTIME. It has the inserts in the rear bumper.  Anyone know who
this is.
> The shot occurs 18 minutes in according to the TIVO.
> 
> Darkstar
>










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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 12:52:17 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Door Seal Lubricant

I posted a message a couple of days ago about door seal lubricants. I really should have posted about what I need. I installed Toby's Wings- A-Loft which works great. One of the doors sticks a little because of the door and the door seal being "tight". Is there a way of making the rubber slippier or softer so that the door seal doesn't grab as much? 
I don't want to increase the torsion to compensate. Once the door clears the seals it opens fine.

Shannon
VIN 16113







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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 20:50:06 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Contro Pressure Regulator

 
 
In a message dated 1/30/2006 6:11:42 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

Well,  today I was practicing taking apart the CIS system on an Audi 
(not sure  the exact model) and I noticed that the control pressure 
regulator looks  exactly like to one on our Deloreans except for that 
the two vacuum lines  are on the same side. Would this part work on our 
Deloreans? I only ask  because I think my CPR might be dead and it 
would be a cheap way to see  for sure. The ladies that do checkout at 
pick a part call everything they  do not recognize a "sensor" $2.99. I 
have gotten some pretty nice parts  off cars for cheap because of 
this.  I know some of you may be  enraged by my asking this, I  
apologize.

Nathan
2277


>>>
Nathan, 
 
You didn't tell us anything about the Audi you are talking about, but there  
are many different variations on the CPR's in different applications.  The  
main things would include the actual control pressure that is maintained as well 
 as the curve it follows during engine warm up, and the way that the full  
enrichment works (the vacuum lines on the device).  Not only that but the  bi 
metallic strip may be different which would cause it to shut off at a  different 
engine temperature.  
 
So, even though it might hook up to everything, it is unlikely to function  
the same as the DMC one. If it did, why would it look different and have a  
different part number?  
 
I am sure John Hervey can elaborate more on the specific differences.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 02:32:00 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seal Lubricant?

I have used armorall for 25 years (the original) - seems to have done 
the job. So far at least.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
>
> What can one put on dooe seals to keep them soft and to prevent them 
> from becoming hard?
> 
> Shannon
> VIN 16113
>









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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 04:02:15 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Battery condition

I have recently been questioning the condition of my battery for 
these reasons:

1) I checked the voltage at blue/yellow wire on the big resistor and 
it reads 9.5 volts. If I rev the motor so that the alternator 
engages the voltage will jump to 11.5

2) The car will start then die several times before it will stay 
running unless the alternator engages or I get it to engage by 
slowly throttling the motor up. If I try to rev the motor quickly 
without the alternator engaged it will abruptly die. 

3) After the car runs for a while and I turn it off, if I 
immediately crank the motor it cranks very quickly. However, if I 
shut the motor down and turn on the headlights I can see the volt 
meter sag slowly then if I crank the motor it will not stay running. 

Could a low or dead battery cause my starting problems? I checked 
the rest voltage of my battery (I recently charged it fully) and it 
read 12.0 volts even.

Nathan
2277








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 09:57:31 -0600
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Deloreans magazine

Last week I took advantage of DMC (Texas)'s Deloreans magazine  
promotion, received my package of back-issues in the mail shortly  
thereafter, and got caught up over the weekend.  I thought that the  
production quality was top-notch, especially for the photography,  
which is something that I'm particularly fussy about.  I enjoyed  
reading the articles and even discovered my fiancee reading an  
article from one (that's notable!).

Looking at all of the issues from the past to the present, it's clear  
that Deloreans has grown quite a bit since the beginning - the volume  
and variety of content has consistently expanded.  I'm looking  
forward to seeing how it continues to evolve this year.

Kudos to the folks at DMC (Texas) for a job well done.

Travis Graham
#06344





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 08:14:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Door Seal Lubricant

 
  Shannon,
   
  I don't know about the lubricants, but make sure your seals are pulled tight.  Really stretch those things when you put them on.  This will help minimize the thickness, and will probably make them last longer.  It's much easier to do with a helper, but I think I wrestled with them myself a couple years ago.
   
  Jake
  1063

birdwell77095 <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net> wrote:
  I posted a message a couple of days ago about door seal lubricants. I 
really should have posted about what I need. I installed Toby's Wings-
A-Loft which works great. One of the doors sticks a little because of 
the door and the door seal being "tight". Is there a way of making the 
rubber slippier or softer so that the door seal doesn't grab as much? 
I don't want to increase the torsion to compensate. Once the door 
clears the seals it opens fine.

Shannon 
VIN 16113


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 19:03:26 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Battery condition



Hey valleyrat,

let me try to understand your theory.
You crank your engine ( this draws hundreds of amps from your
battery and makes the voltage drop) and your engine starts, but
when you release the key (battery voltage returns to almost its 
max) the car dies ?

When your battery makes it to crank your engine, it would be able 
to run the ignition system without alternator for another 20 or 
more miles !!!

A charged battery has around 12.6V.

What you have sounds like a typical cold start problem.

Elvis & 6548...with dead battery...no cranking at all !




I have recently been questioning the condition of my battery for 
these reasons:

1) I checked the voltage at blue/yellow wire on the big resistor and 
it reads 9.5 volts. If I rev the motor so that the alternator 
engages the voltage will jump to 11.5

2) The car will start then die several times before it will stay 
running unless the alternator engages or I get it to engage by 
slowly throttling the motor up. If I try to rev the motor quickly 
without the alternator engaged it will abruptly die. 

3) After the car runs for a while and I turn it off, if I 
immediately crank the motor it cranks very quickly. However, if I 
shut the motor down and turn on the headlights I can see the volt 
meter sag slowly then if I crank the motor it will not stay running. 

Could a low or dead battery cause my starting problems? I checked 
the rest voltage of my battery (I recently charged it fully) and it 
read 12.0 volts even.

Nathan
2277







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 09:28:09 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean TV sighting

I couldn't see the state so if they have white plates it could have been.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of d_rex_2002
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 5:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean TV sighting


Forum,

If the plate was Wisconsin instead of California, that would be
Mark V. with the NEXTIME plate.  Mark did participate in the




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 12:59:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Eurofest Dive Trip

Rob Lamrock made some calls, and can set up a dive
trip for us.  The dive date would be May 30.

Cost for the boat is approx $800USD, with a capacity
of 12 people.

Rental of all equipment is another approx $90USD.


I'd set my value (for me) on this dive trip at $200,
so if we can get at least 8 people to go that would
work out well.

If there is interest, please let me know ASAP. 
Otherwise, I suspect we will just not do it this time.




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 13:40:15 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Battery condition

 Nathan,
A battery should be reading across the terminals at 12.66 volts or maybe a
little higher at any time. 
The alternator should be reading 13.8 to about 14.6 at the engine battery
terminal or again across the terminals at a fast Idle. 
9.5 vol6ts is ok for starting but the voltage needs to be higher for
running. If you measure the battery at any time and it reads across the
terminals 12 volts, then it's about 20% capacity. 
I would say the battery either won't hold a charge if you charged it and
needs to be replaced. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
valleyrat12
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Battery condition

I have recently been questioning the condition of my battery for 
these reasons:

1) I checked the voltage at blue/yellow wire on the big resistor and 
it reads 9.5 volts. If I rev the motor so that the alternator 
engages the voltage will jump to 11.5




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 20:43:45 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Battery condition

Hmmm, interesting.  But with a Delorean, what isn't...
Let's see if I can help a little here.

 
> 1) I checked the voltage at blue/yellow wire on the big resistor and 
> it reads 9.5 volts. If I rev the motor so that the alternator 
> engages the voltage will jump to 11.5

"Big resistor"?  Are you talking about the ignition resistor on the
firewall?  Unfortunately my D is at home now hiding from the rain, so
I can't check the wire colors or measure voltage fo you.

 
> 2) The car will start then die several times before it will stay 
> running unless the alternator engages or I get it to engage by 
> slowly throttling the motor up. If I try to rev the motor quickly 
> without the alternator engaged it will abruptly die.

If the battery is capable of cranking the engine over for sevaral
repeated starting attempts it *should* be ok.  Just to make sure
though charge it and take the battery to a local auto parts store and
have it load tested. (assuming the personell know what they're doing)

> 
> 3) After the car runs for a while and I turn it off, if I 
> immediately crank the motor it cranks very quickly. However, if I 
> shut the motor down and turn on the headlights I can see the volt 
> meter sag slowly then if I crank the motor it will not stay running.

Weird

 
> 
> Could a low or dead battery cause my starting problems? I checked 
> the rest voltage of my battery (I recently charged it fully) and it 
> read 12.0 volts even.

Hmmm, this could be something.  At rest a fully charged 12v automotive
battery should read 12.6v.  It has 6 cells which have 2.1v apiece, if
memory serves.  Get that battery load tested and see what happens.

Matt
#2868







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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 14:23:58 -0800 (PST)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door Replacement

  Hi All,
      
Does anyone have experience with or know how to adjust 
the car door or adjacent sheet metal, driver's side 
especially, to sit flush/even with the rest of the
Delorean body? The driver's door had to be replaced on
my Delorean and the shop did not make the door sit flush/
in-line with the rest of the car body, by 1/8" to 1/4", 
especially the roof area. The door operates fine, but 
looks like it is never closed all the way, especially
when looking across the roof from the passenger side of
the car. Thanks for any advice!         

Mike
#5781
  

			
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! Autos. Looking for a sweet ride? Get pricing, reviews, & more on new and used cars.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 19:16:11 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC Factory and Test Track

Hi Group,

I just discovered a new toy on the web called GoogleEarth.This is pretty amazing and scary 
if you think about it.

Many of the High population areas in the world are shown in high resolution which allows 
for zooming in with great detail.

You have to down load the program and it works best with a high speed connection.
Go to www.googleearth.com and down load the free version. 

Just for fun, I decided to look up the DMC factory Near belfast and got pretty lucky on the 
first try. I just zoomed in on a cluster of white roofed buildings and much to my surprise 
there was the test track next to the buildings. 

The DMC factory and Track is located at these coordinates.
54 Deg 32' 53.81" N
  6 Deg 00'52.72" W

It is interesting to see how the facory is nestled in a residential area.   The mapping in this 
program is a compilation of satillite and airial photography gathered from various sourses. 
Many of the images are 3 to 5 years old NOT REAL TIME . It is neat to look up where one 
lives from the perspective of space, it's like flying over the countryside without an airplane 
when you zoom in and tilt the view.

Have fun traveling the world.

Dennis







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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 21:59:51 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Toby Tabs

Great idea, I'll give it a try once I can manage to get some time to
do it.

Thanks,

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <todd1561_at_dml_g...> wrote:
>
> Bernie,
> 
> If you're still having problems getting the TAB out a trick I found
when 
> doing mine was to use a flat-head screw driver and knock all of the
shims 
> out so you have a gap between the trailing arm and the frame.  Then
use a 
> wrench and start to tighten the nut on the TAB.  What this did for
me was 
> actually create a crude press since it started to pull the TAB
through the 
> trailing arm, not much obviously, but just enough to break the
corrosion 
> that held it in.  It still took some muscle to get it out the rest
of the 
> way, but at least it was moving.  Funny enough my passenger side TAB
came 
> out no problem, not sure why that it is.
> 
> Good Luck,
> Todd Nelson
> 1561, Vermont
> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
> 
> 
<SNIP>







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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:03:59 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Toby Tabs

It may come to that, luckily I have new bushings to put in too once I
get the old ones out.  It's going to get messy.  Just wish I had lift
to work on to do it.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>
> Hi Bernie
> 
> I've got stuck like this a couple of times, and the best solution is 
> either to be on a 2-post ramp and use a very long breaker bar to turn 
> them, and copious amounts of penetrant, or cut them off, remove the 
> trailing arm and press the old bolt out.
> 
> Martin
> 
><SNIP>







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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:11:16 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Battery condition

A fully charged battery should acutally read about 13.5 volts.  Take
the battery and have it tested.  You alternator voltage at about 2K
RPMS should be about 13.5-14.5 volts.  Check your grounds and
alternator positive connections for corrosion, as well as your starter.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>
> I have recently been questioning the condition of my battery for 
> these reasons:
> 
> 1) I checked the voltage at blue/yellow wire on the big resistor and 
> it reads 9.5 volts. If I rev the motor so that the alternator 
> engages the voltage will jump to 11.5
> 
> 2) The car will start then die several times before it will stay 
> running unless the alternator engages or I get it to engage by 
> slowly throttling the motor up. If I try to rev the motor quickly 
> without the alternator engaged it will abruptly die. 
> 
> 3) After the car runs for a while and I turn it off, if I 
> immediately crank the motor it cranks very quickly. However, if I 
> shut the motor down and turn on the headlights I can see the volt 
> meter sag slowly then if I crank the motor it will not stay running. 
> 
> Could a low or dead battery cause my starting problems? I checked 
> the rest voltage of my battery (I recently charged it fully) and it 
> read 12.0 volts even.
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 19:08:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Deloreans magazine

I took advantage of the same offer, but have yet to receive my magazines. Hopefully there isn't a Canadian Border Guard with a new collection.
   
  Parts Pit Mike
  17076


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 17:56:34 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean TV sighting

Yeah that was my Car, i think i was the only Delorean in the whole show.

I would be interested in seeing my car on TV.

Mark V


On Jan 30, 2006, at 6:10 PM, d_rex_2002 wrote:

> Forum,
>
> If the plate was Wisconsin instead of California, that would be
> Mark V. with the NEXTIME plate.  Mark did participate in the
> Hot Rod Power Tour, so my guess is that this was probably him.
> The DeLorean was one I partially refurbished in 2000 and drove
> to the Cleveland show, where JZD stood between two of my D's to
> take a picture. (photo is in the gallery on DeLoreanCarShow.com)
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_c...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Just turned on the TV to the Hot Rod TV show titled Power tour 1.
> There is
>> a shot of a DeLorean with the doors up driving by with a
> California plate of
>> NEXTIME. It has the inserts in the rear bumper.  Anyone know who
> this is.
>> The shot occurs 18 minutes in according to the TIVO.
>>
>> Darkstar
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 00:19:30 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Deloreans magazine

Thanks for the kind words, Travis. 

All of the orders for the back issue deal were shipped by last
Thursday, so most everyone should have received or soon receive their
copies. If anyone missed this deal and would like more information,
please let me know via private email.

James Espey
james (at) delorean.com
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_n...> wrote:
>
> Last week I took advantage of DMC (Texas)'s Deloreans magazine  
> promotion, received my package of back-issues in the mail shortly  
> thereafter, and got caught up over the weekend.  I thought that the  
> production quality was top-notch, especially for the photography,  
> which is something that I'm particularly fussy about.  I enjoyed  
> reading the articles and even discovered my fiancee reading an  
> article from one (that's notable!).
> 
> Looking at all of the issues from the past to the present, it's clear  
> that Deloreans has grown quite a bit since the beginning - the volume  
> and variety of content has consistently expanded.  I'm looking  
> forward to seeing how it continues to evolve this year.
> 
> Kudos to the folks at DMC (Texas) for a job well done.
> 
> Travis Graham
> #06344
>








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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 18:34:08 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Toby Tabs

Once you make some clearance for the blade, cutting them out really isn't 
too bad. Use a sharp hacksaw blade and it will go right through the old bolt 
in very little time. Of course getting clearance for the blade and clearance 
for your arm swing as you saw while the car is on jack stands is key and is 
not necessarily easy.

On my son's car we soaked them for a week in penetrant. One of them came 
loose with not much trouble but the other would not budge and had to be cut.

Surprisingly, once the arm with the stuck bolt was free of the car we 
carried it to a nearby 20 ton arbor press and  even it could not get that 
bolt out! We had to replace the entire trailing arm.

The one bolt that we did not have to cut was slightly bent. Putting in new 
Toby TABs sure gave us peace of mind.

Joe Kuchan

>From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Toby Tabs
>Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 22:03:59 -0000
>
>It may come to that, luckily I have new bushings to put in too once I
>get the old ones out.  It's going to get messy.  Just wish I had lift
>to work on to do it.
>
>Bernie
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd
><martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bernie
> >
> > I've got stuck like this a couple of times, and the best solution is
> > either to be on a 2-post ramp and use a very long breaker bar to turn
> > them, and copious amounts of penetrant, or cut them off, remove the
> > trailing arm and press the old bolt out.
> >
> > Martin






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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 02:02:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Battery condition

The "proper" way to troubleshoot the starting/charging system is to
start with some "known good" components. The most prefered method is
to remove the battery, slowly charge, clean the terminals, and test it
separatly from the car. Once you know you have a good battery (either
because you tested your old one or replaced it) you can now do some
tests. You can check voltage drop across cables, starter current, and
the charging system. If you have bad/dirty connections, it can cause
the battery to be chronically undercharged which is very bad for the
battery and the electrical system. The alternator should be charging
even at idle. If it is not then there is soemthing wrong. If the
battery is good it will turn out to be either bad/dirty connections, a
wiring problem, or a problem with the alternator. It is critical you
use the proper point to test the elctrical system relative to
"GROUND". On a Delorean this is more important than most cars because
of the fiberglass body so you must always be sure you are actually
measuring from a GOOD GROUND. If in doubt always go right from the
battery negative terminal. This is the ultimate ground reference.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>
> A fully charged battery should acutally read about 13.5 volts.  Take
> the battery and have it tested.  You alternator voltage at about 2K
> RPMS should be about 13.5-14.5 volts.  Check your grounds and
> alternator positive connections for corrosion, as well as your st








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