From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:23 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3105

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. My first tune up
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Very Strange - my blower fan quit working completely
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: 5-speed problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. RE: My first tune up
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Help. I mixed up my heater core hoses!
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

8. Re: CO adjustment
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: CO adjustment
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

10. Re: Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Wing Mounted Anntena...
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

12. Dwell meter setting??
From: "David Hudgins" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Mileage
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Tracing a previous owner
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

15. Re: Dwell meter setting??
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 05:23:37 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?

[Waving Arms] I know this one. BTDT.

I put the cluster back together wrong on my recent project car and ran into this. Not hard to do, I've done plenty and this was the first one I got wrong. 

This is gonna be fun to describe. Get under the dash. Find the two metal strips that have one end under the two large (17mm) nuts that hold the steering column in place, and the other end (slits in the steel, not holes) under two small (7 or 8 mm?) nuts that hold the instrument cluster (aka binnacle). My bet is that they are installed wrong. Remove the nuts from the binnacle and reinstall them UNDER the reinforcing strips. (yeah - you have to take the 17mm steering column nuts off, just do them one at a time). Then put a second on the same stud nut over the reinforcement strip. 

I think what happens is that, with just the one nut, the binnacle is pulled down, actually pulling the entire fiberglass dash down. It's only about 1/8 inch difference, but at the top of the binnacle it's more like 1/2 inch due to the angle. Which is just enough to make you have to duck your head to see the idiot lights.  

Dave Swingle



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I find that my instrument cluster/binnacle are angled a bit low for my 
> tastes, it's hard to see some of the indications at the top of the
> cluster without ducking my head a bit.   Perhaps my seating position 
is
> not what JDZ envisioned, but as I need to pull the cluster off soon I 
> was wondering if anyone had chosen to slightly shim their clusters to 
> angle them up just a bit more, and if the results were acceptable.
> 
> Tom
> 10902
> 
> PS - Who the other Delorean on San Fernando road going north yesterday 
> in Burbank?
>









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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 09:32:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?

Do you need to replace your steering column bush? When that goes you can't see the top of the cluster. It was one of my "disappointments" 
when I bought mine, till I changed that dang bush :-)

Martin

Tom Tait wrote:

>I find that my instrument cluster/binnacle are angled a bit low for my 
>tastes, it's hard to see some of the indications at the top of the
>cluster without ducking my head a bit.   
>







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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 21:12:30 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: My first tune up

I've pulled the transmission twice but have yet to perform a tune-up beyond replacing the plugs, etc. That's lame, so now I'm attempting to perform my first real tune up on my DeLorean.

I just need some help. :-)

The diagnostic socket now works (thanks to Dave Delman; connection underneath was unplugged & damaged as you suggested). Dwell meter shows a steady position when cold, as it should. Unfortunately, once the car warms up, the dwell meter still shows a steady position. I tried running a ground from the ECU to the engine block as suggested here (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html), but it didn't help. I'm fairly certain I can hear the frequency valve buzzing.

Now what do I do?

Second piece of information to this puzzle: I started this quest because of a lean condition causing a "glug glug" noise on deceleration. Working blind since my dwell meter wasn't swinging back and forth, I dialed the mixture up 1/4 of a turn anyway. This fixed
(!) the glug glug noise, but unfortunately caused the engine to begin surging up and down fairly significantly at idle - so I put the mixture back where it was.

From here, I have no idea where to go. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan


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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 17:15:37 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Very Strange - my blower fan quit working completely

Here's a problem that has got me stumped.  (sort of lengthy description, but please bear with me)  

Background story:
Ever since I've had my car, the interior blower fan would quit running when the mode switch was turned to heater or defrost (top 2 positions on mode switch).  Last week I finally decided to tackle the problem, and pulled back the center console and took out the mode switch.  Turns out that at some point, the outer metal "rail" 
inside the switch had melted down into the plastic, so that as the dial was turned up to heater and defrost, the nub on the contact plate no longer touched the metal rail, which fed the green fan wire.  Simple enough, so I raised up the rail, installed everything back in, and the fan then worked in all positions.  A happy camper I was.

So that evening, I go for a drive, 15 minutes to a store, running the heater.  No problems.  Half way home, I sat idling outside another store for about 15 minutes while a friend went inside.  
During that time, I heard a faint "sizzling" noise from the relay compartment, but it was so faint, that I questioned whether I really heard it and there were no noticeable symptoms, so I sort of shrugged and didn't think much of it.  By the time I got home, I realized that the blower fan had quit working on ALL positions of the mode switch.  

So here's where I'm at now.  The circuit breaker for the blower fan seems fine (multi meter shows power on top and bottom contacts), the 3rd and 4th fan speed relays test ok for continuity (although I'm no expert on what to look for) and nothing looks even slightly melted or burned up.  I replaced all fuses.  I made sure the fan speed switch is securely connected.  The resistor behind the fan itself is brand new and securely connected.  And of course my repair in the mode switch still looks good.  Everything seems fine.

The blower motor still works, because when hooking up a separate 12V battery directly to the contacts on the motor, it comes right on.  
When hooking up my multi-meter to the pink/red wire going to the motor, it shows the following:

Fan speed switch positions:
Off :    0 volts
1:       11.75 volts
2:       11.75 volts
3:       0 volts
4:       0 volts

Despite positions 1 and 2 showing voltage, the fan never comes on.

I have looked at the wiring schematic on page M:18:19 of the workshop manual, but unfortunately with my level of expertise, most of it is Greek to me.  If anyone can lend me some advice it would be very much appreciated, because the only thing I know to do from here is to try putting in new parts (relays, circuit breaker, fan speed switch… etc).

Thanks in advance,
-Derek L
VIN 5302








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 17:44:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: 5-speed problem

The first thing you should try to do are the adjustments on F:07:01-:02. If you see any lost motion you may have to replace some rubber bushings if they are worn out. Check the fluid level too.
Generally if there is a problem with the notorious pin it doesn't affect 4th but it WILL affect 2nd. You don't remove the console, just the plate over the top. Remove the 2 screws towards the rear, the shiter knob, and it may be stuck under the plastic lense in front but with some gentle persuasion it will come out. While you are under the car inspect the motor mounts for cracks, especially the front left one on the tranny.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mydmc5898" <mydmc5898_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My 5-speed tranny was put in around last January or so. 
> It ran fine until July, when the car refused to go into reverse.
> 








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 14:01:06 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: My first tune up

The car may be as warm as its going to get, but the way the ECU detects that is when it sees a signal from the lambda probe. (O2 sensor) Make sure it is working and connected. If it hasn't been replaced in a long time you may want to just replace it so you don't have to wonder if it is working. Make sure it is connected to the ecu. There is a "quick disconnect" style connector in the single lead that goes from the lambda probe through the wheel well area into the box behind the drivers seat where the ECU is located. Make sure that has not become disconnected, which is a common issue. If the ECU does not see a signal from the lambda probe that could be your problem.

Joe Kuchan


>From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] My first tune up
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 21:12:30 -0800
>
>I've pulled the transmission twice but have yet to perform a tune-up 
>beyond replacing the plugs, etc. That's lame, so now I'm attempting to 
>perform my first real tune up on my DeLorean.
>
>I just need some help. :-)
>
>The diagnostic socket now works (thanks to Dave Delman; connection 
>underneath was unplugged & damaged as you suggested). Dwell meter shows 
>a steady position when cold, as it should. Unfortunately, once the car 
>warms up, the dwell meter still shows a steady position. I tried 
>running a ground from the ECU to the engine block as suggested here 
>(http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html), but it didn't help. I'm 
>fairly certain I can hear the frequency valve buzzing.
>
>Now what do I do?
>
>Second piece of information to this puzzle: I started this quest 
>because of a lean condition causing a "glug glug" noise on 
>deceleration. Working blind since my dwell meter wasn't swinging back 
>and forth, I dialed the mixture up 1/4 of a turn anyway. This fixed
>(!) the glug glug noise, but unfortunately caused the engine to begin 
>surging up and down fairly significantly at idle - so I put the mixture 
>back where it was.
>
>From here, I have no idea where to go. Any advice would be greatly 
>appreciated.
>
>-Ryan
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 18:05:14 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Help. I mixed up my heater core hoses!

This is stupid, I know, but I pulled off the heater core hoses where they connect to the metal lines on the frame, and now I forget which pipe goes to the water pump, and which one goes to the heater valve.
The way I'm distinguishing between the metal lines right now is that there's a top pipe, and a bottom pipe (as they sit along the frame).
Can anyone help?  

thanks,

Matt
#1604







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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 20:58:19 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: CO adjustment

It is common that the wire is unplugged at the connection by the top of the left head (driver side) just above the distributor cap. You can connect the dwell meter there too rather than the diagnostic plug. 
Check the wire diagram for colors - you will see it.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Where does the CO adjustment wire (top right corner pin on the 
> diagnostic connector) go to? I can't get any signal whatsoever out of 
> it, so I want to track the wire down and make sure it isn't broken 
> anywhere.
> 
> -Ryan
>









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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 18:29:02 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: CO adjustment

Hi Ryan

The wire that feeds this terminal is the orange one that comes from pin 17 on the ECU module and is the one you measure the pulse cycle with when adjusting the fuel mixture ( the ECU is the silver vertical hanging module behind the drivers seat ). If like me your Diagnostic plug wiring has melted in the past on the exhaust, then you probably wont get a signal on it. I connected a new wire to this cable just off the black ECU connector, i pulled back a little of the black tape and 'scotch locked' it on and i now have this wire coiled up in the cubby hole underneath for pulling it into the engine bay for future use.

Any further questions please ask away :)

Regards

Mike
#2001
Yorkshire UK


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Where does the CO adjustment wire (top right corner pin on the 
> diagnostic connector) go to? I can't get any signal whatsoever out of 
> it, so I want to track the wire down and make sure it isn't broken 
> anywhere.
> 
> -Ryan
>








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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 21:10:50 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Instrument Cluster Angle?

Dave is referring to the first item on this service bulletin. A lot of cars are missing these brackets. (early ones mainly - mine included!)

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-14-9.81.html

Martin
#1458 (missing)
#4426

Dave Swingle wrote:

>This is gonna be fun to describe. Get under the dash. Find the two 
>metal strips that have one end under the two large (17mm) nuts that 
>hold the steering column in place, and the other end (slits in the 
>steel, not holes) under two small (7 or 8 mm?) nuts that hold the 
>instrument cluster (aka binnacle).
>






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 21:51:22 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Wing Mounted Anntena...

Hiya All

Has anyone else got a wing mounted Aerial ?.... I have an extremely
attractive rubber effort that sits on the top :)

Looking for a bit of advice as to the clearance from the wing to the
black underbody to fit one below... Does it actually fit beneath or
does the underbody need drilling out etc to make it fit? also how does
your lead to the radio enter the passenger compartment?

Thanks for any info guys before i partly remove my wing....

Mike
403/2001


http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/index.html








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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 00:29:53 -0000
From: "David Hudgins" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Dwell meter setting??

Does anyone have a procedure for setting the dwell meter for the co?? I have 
one but it says to use the setting for a four cylinder??? Why is that?? 
thanks..Dave..and where do most of you all set your co at on the dwell meter.. 
meaniing what does it read when u are done???








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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 01:15:35 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Mileage

When looking at my (unfortunately large) notebook full of repair and 
parts receipts, I noticed I put 20,000 miles on the car for 2005 
(about 8 months-rest was down time).  Do I win???  Any more high 
milers out there?







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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 02:08:45 -0000
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Tracing a previous owner

Hi All,

I recently purchased Vin 02493 (and loving every minute of ownership)

Its a July 1981 model (Build Date) with black interior and 5 speed 
transmission.  The hood has the gas flap and groves.

Im trying to track down the orignal (or one of the orignal) owner.  
The details are as follows:

Owner (as stated on the Cert of title issued State of Missouri):
Duncan Robert, N Oak, Kansas City.

The car was then sold to Brummer Raphael in Belgium and remained there 
until she went to the UK and then back to Belfast.

If anyone knows any history on this car or knows any of the previous 
owners I would love to hear from you to find out some further history 
on her.  You can e-mail me privately on willinot AT ukonline.co.uk

Thanks and Ill see you at Eurofest.

Paul
Vin 02493
Belfast










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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 18:27:47 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dwell meter setting??

Dave,

I'm following this procedure: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7u0gn/id6.html

I don't know why it says the use the 4 cylinder setting... My meter
doesn't have such settings. Just a "dwell" option and no choice of
cylinders.

-Ryan

On 2/4/06, David Hudgins <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have a procedure for setting the dwell meter for the co?? I have
> one but it says to use the setting for a four cylinder??? Why is that??
> thanks..Dave..and where do most of you all set your co at on the dwell meter..
> meaniing what does it read when u are done???
>
>


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