From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 3:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3107

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. RE: Mileage
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>

3. Re: Re: DMC type cartoon
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Delorean items for sale
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Need vacuum measurments
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

6. Upper door seals
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

7. RE: Instrument Cluster Angle?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Funny "whizzing" sound from engine
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

9. PJ Grady Refinished Wheels
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

10. Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Mileage
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Engine starting/running a second time for the day.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

13. Dwelling on da dwell...
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Mileage
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

15. Re: PJ Grady Refinished Wheels
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

16. Re: My first tune up: Making progress, not quite there yet
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. Re: Re: Mileage
From: tom kasmer <tkasmer_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Re: Need vacuum measurments
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Dwelling on da dwell-Attack Mode
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

21. Delorean Sighting - Hemmings Classic Car Magazine
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. Re: Funny "whizzing" sound from engine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

23. Pheasant Run is Creeping up...Get your hotel rooms fast
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: Delorean Sighting - Hemmings Classic Car Magazine
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Re: Mileage
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 21:55:39 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)

 
 
In a message dated 2/5/2006 8:39:25 P.M. Central Standard Time, valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

I know  that my Fuel Accumulator is bad and leaking back into the fuel tank return  line but I figured that the pump over delivered so this would not be a  problem. Where do I start?

Nathan



>>>>
Nathan,
 
Best course of action at this point would be to start from the tank and  work your way through the fuel system until you get to the injectors. Replace every part that is even somewhat questionable as it sounds like there may be a few problems with more than just one part.  It is impossible to fix a  problem by going after the symptoms (like chasing down fuel pressure problems  when you already know the accumulator is bad but it hasn't been replaced  yet).  
There is no cheap way around it, just do it and you will be glad you  did in the long run.  Just physically remove and inspect every single part.  If it even a 
little dirty and you can't get it spotless, just replace it.   After all, you 
are talking about parts that will leave you stranded  somewhere..... 
 
Just my advice as I have been there, done that before.
Andy
 
Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 22:10:02 -0500
From: "Shain" <dsmguy_at_dml_ptd.net>
Subject: RE: Mileage

A guy I know from in town,  says he has 600k on his car.  If you saw the car you would agree with him that he probably says.  I guess the cars are built to last.

-Shain

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tom kasmer
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 6:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Mileage


what engine/transmission do you have and what average mileage have you gotten? I am interested in several different owners responding for both manual and automatic. Also, what is a good 0-60 time for both 5 speed and automatic?  Tom Kasmer

--- tuxr <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:

> When looking at my (unfortunately large) notebook full of repair and 
> parts receipts, I noticed I put 20,000 miles on the car for 2005 
> (about 8 months-rest was down time).  Do I win???
> Any more high
> milers out there?




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 19:49:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC type cartoon

And they used the line "Back to the Future" on Tripping the Rift last week, Episode was Roswell.

--- Bill Koenig <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com> wrote:
> Hey Al,





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 20:29:48 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean items for sale

All in great working order.
  Shameless plug before I let these items go through Ebay.
   
  If anyone interested please contact me off list.
   
  Both door lock solenoids
  Both outerr door seals brand new
  luggage carpet (black)
  dash board carpet cover (black)

		john_podlewski(AT)yahoo.com	




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 03:08:45 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Need vacuum measurments

my car is a non-turbo and this was at idle....i need to adjust it, but before i need to check if theres any vac leak, are you able to take a reading at this rpm ? if not i will need to finish my headers then lower the idle and take another measure

thanks
yan









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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 21:40:18 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Upper door seals

I was helping another D owner with a leak in her roof. After removing the T-panel and sealing it up (note to POs, duct tape won't seal leaks in the long run), we created a new issue. When the doors are opened, the top rubber seals catch on the body and wrap around the door. This makes a really loud squeaking sound and will probably eventually tear the rubber. 
It does this with and without the T-panel installed.

Has anybody had this happen to them after removing the T-panel? If so, what did you do to fix it? We can trim the rubber a bit, but the length wasn't a problem before. The only other thing we can think of is putting glue along where the foam is along the panel edge. As a quick test we pressed the center section of the T-panel down and it still got caught between the panel and body.

Thanks,
Chris





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 21:38:27 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Instrument Cluster Angle?

Thanks guys - I know the binnacle has been removed before as I saw comments about replacing indicator bulbs in the POs records - I wonder how may other things I've already put together wrong because that is how I found them?






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 13:03:36 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Funny "whizzing" sound from engine

I am not sure how to describe this sound I hear from my engine, but its like a whirring, whizzing sound I get during various times when accellerating.  It does not affect the engine performance when I gas it.  It seems to come from the engine compartment.  It sort of sounds like an air wrench on tires being changed, that fast "fschweez", "fschweez" sound (how that for wording a sound!).  It comes and goes, varies in intensity (shorter and longer bursts).  I'm not sure if it's a vacuum leak, or an idler bearing, etc.  Perhaps someone can shed some light for me.  I have a couple other questions that I will post as separate subjects.  Thanks for any advice. - Paul








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 13:11:53 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: PJ Grady Refinished Wheels

If Rob is online, can you give me some more information and pricing for refinished wheels for an '82 Delorean?  (I had sent an email a couple of weeks ago on your site, but not sure if it was received).  
You can email me offline if you'd like.  I am interested in the silver colored (not grey) wheels.  Also, of the wheel types described at this link,

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html

I'd be interested in replacing mine with the light/thick variety of wheel, which I presently have.  Also, has others in this group purchased these from Rob?  What are your thoughts?  Mine have brake dust corrosion that make the areas between the "spokes" just black, and I have flaking paint.  Pricing in my area (MA) seems a bit high
($165 - $195 per wheel) to get them refinished from a wheel shop.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 14:50:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)

Not so fast VR. When cold the car starts on the cold start valve. It opens on a lot less pressure than the fuel injectors so it is working before the fuel injectors to get the motor started. That gives the pump a chance to get the pressure up enough to make the fuel injectors work. If you are having trouble starting the car (when cold) troubleshoot the cold start system. The fuel accumulator is supposed to hold up "Rest Pressure" so the car will start easily when warm. It gives the fuel pump a "head start" to getting the pressure up enough to run the fuel injectors. The motor doesn't need the Rest Pressure when cold, the cold start valve can work at much lower pressures. Go back and see if the cold start system is working. Try pulling out the cold start valve, stick it in a can, and crank the engine when cold.
You should see it squirt. You can do a lot of troubleshooting WITHOUT the pressure gauge set-up. Where do you start you ask? My advice is to always start in the fuel tank. Clean it out and inspect all the parts inside. Then, since you have decided the fuel accumulator is bad, replace it. Now you can start troubleshooting the fuel system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> OK, today I decided to check the condition of my fuel injectors 
> because I just realized that I had not ruled them out as the problem.
> Once I had gotten all six of them out I jumped the fuel pump ad went 
> back to test them out. When I depressed the air meter nothing 
> happened! One injector was spitting out a little but that was it!







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 06:13:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage

Sadly only 14,505 miles driven in 2005 :-(

Tom,

Engine/Trans = stock/manual
23-27 MPG
27-29 MPG on the highway, in 5th gear, cruising speed 70-80 MPH 0-60 = never timed

Shannon Y
16506

--------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 15:16:09 -0800 (PST)
   From: tom kasmer <tkasmer_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage


what engine/transmission do you have and what average mileage have you gotten? I am interested in several different owners responding for both manual and automatic. Also, what is a good 0-60 time for both 5 speed and automatic?  Tom Kasmer




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 13:21:51 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Engine starting/running a second time for the day.

Sorry for the barrage of questions (this is my third posting in about 
10  minutes). I have a question about starting my car after I have 
successfuly and smoothly run it the first time during the day.  After 
about 20 minutes to an hour after parking my car from a smooth initial 
run, it has trouble firing up again (it will start right up if it has 
been only a few minutes, but becomes an issue after a longer period). 
It will crank several times with no success.  I will push the gas 
pedal down, and try cranking again,  still not firing.  I will wait a 
few more minutes, and after some more cranking it will eventually 
start.  At this time, the engine will either run smoothly, or 
sometimes a little rough.  I am not sure what causes this.  Could it 
be the infamous "hot start" problem (can someone describe this to 
me?).  Does it have something to do with a fuel accumulator and fuel 
pressure?  Is this hard to change?  Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul  









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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:57:50 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Dwelling on da dwell...

 
 
Dave Sontos,
 
You wrote this, but I'm not sure it's accurate.  Maybe I'm not  understanding 
what you mean by

"If your  dwell meter has no scale for four cylinder engines than just adjust 
the CO  to the maximum swing of the needle."

If the needle were to swing to the maximum or 100% then that woluld mean  the 
frequency valve would be on all the time.
 
Please clarify for us.

 
Thank  you,
 
Dē & 6530
Dave Delman


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:13:50 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage

Shain,

What town is this 600K DeLorean located in?

Bob





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 15:15:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: PJ Grady Refinished Wheels

I've found that most of the vendors are much quicker on the phone 
than online due to obvious reasons - they are out in the shop!

I've rarely had any of them not answer the phone during business 
hours (and on the weekends), and will call you back if you have to 
leave a message. Especially when it comes to a potential big-ticket 
sale! Grady's is 800.350.7429 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> If Rob is online, can you give me some more information and pricing 
> for refinished wheels for an '82 Delorean?  (I had sent an email a 
> couple of weeks ago on your site, but not sure if it was 
received).  
> You can email me offline if you'd like.  I am interested in the 
> silver colored (not grey) wheels.  Also, of the wheel types 
> described at this link,
> 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html
> 
> I'd be interested in replacing mine with the light/thick variety of 
> wheel, which I presently have.  Also, has others in this group 
> purchased these from Rob?  What are your thoughts?  Mine have brake 
> dust corrosion that make the areas between the "spokes" just black, 
> and I have flaking paint.  Pricing in my area (MA) seems a bit high 
> ($165 - $195 per wheel) to get them refinished from a wheel shop.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> Vin 10944
>








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 14:53:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: My first tune up: Making progress, not quite there yet

Hard to tell what you noise is this far away! Could be a valve
adjustment, an exhaust leak, a vacuum leak, etc. Maybe even a bad
idler pulley bearing or a loose fan belt. You will have to eliminate
the possiblilites one at a time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> OK, the Lambda system is working now. I dialed it in to an average
> reading of 45 on my dwell meter - it swings from ~35 to ~55 give or
> take.
> 
> Problem: I had to dial the co even leaner than it already was to get
> the lambda system right. This was surprising to me, as I'd thought the
> "







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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 07:17:17 -0800 (PST)
From: tom kasmer <tkasmer_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Mileage

thanks, thats about what I thought   Tom

--- Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Sadly only 14,505 miles driven in 2005 :-(
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Engine/Trans = stock/manual
> 23-27 MPG 
> 27-29 MPG on the highway, in 5th gear, cruising
> speed 70-80 MPH
> 0-60 = never timed
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506







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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 10:32:24 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Need vacuum measurments



18.5" is a little low but still in the healthy range at idle. In your case, 
your car really isn't at idle, though. I suspect that your high idle is due 
to something physically holding the throttle open a little bit. Could be the 
cable is adjusted too tightly, or it might be the idle screw adjustment, or 
the adjustable linkage rod might need adjusting. (Or some combination of the 
above.) With the throttle open a bit you are not going to get a high vacuum.

Set up your idle correctly and I'm guessing you will see more vacuum 
afterwards. From what you've said so far there's no reason to suspect a 
vacuum leak at this point.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Need vacuum measurments
>Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 03:08:45 -0000
>
>my car is a non-turbo and this was at idle....i need to adjust it, but
>before i need to check if theres any vac leak, are you able to take a
>reading at this rpm ? if not i will need to finish my headers then
>lower the idle and take another measure
>
>thanks
>yan







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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 16:26:05 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Discovered the root cause of my starting problem (I think)

Yes, the engine does run for a second or two on the cold start fuel 
however it dies right after it uses this fuel up becuase there is 
not enough pressure to allow the injectors to fire. For some reason 
the fuel pump is not preassurizing the fuel system soon enough, If I 
jump the pump there is about 10-20 seconds of time before the system 
is "pressurized". This must not be normal. 

Nathan
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Not so fast VR. When cold the car starts on the cold start valve. 
It
> opens on a lot less pressure than the fuel injectors so it is 
working
> before the fuel injectors to get the motor started. That gives the
> pump a chance to get the pressure up enough to make the fuel 
injectors
> work. If you are having trouble starting the car (when cold)
> troubleshoot the cold start system. The fuel accumulator is 
supposed
> to hold up "Rest Pressure" so the car will start easily when warm. 
It
> gives the fuel pump a "head start" to getting the pressure up 
enough
> to run the fuel injectors. The motor doesn't need the Rest Pressure
> when cold, the cold start valve can work at much lower pressures. 
Go
> back and see if the cold start system is working. Try pulling out 
the
> cold start valve, stick it in a can, and crank the engine when 
cold.
> You should see it squirt. You can do a lot of troubleshooting 
WITHOUT
> the pressure gauge set-up. Where do you start you ask? My advice 
is to
> always start in the fuel tank. Clean it out and inspect all the 
parts
> inside. Then, since you have decided the fuel accumulator is bad,
> replace it. Now you can start troubleshooting the fuel system.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > OK, today I decided to check the condition of my fuel injectors 
> > because I just realized that I had not ruled them out as the 
problem. 
> > Once I had gotten all six of them out I jumped the fuel pump ad 
went 
> > back to test them out. When I depressed the air meter nothing 
> > happened! One injector was spitting out a little but that was it!
>








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 13:43:52 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Dwelling on da dwell-Attack Mode

D2,
If you can adjust your CO so the needle is pegged (100%) I would be very
surprised.

You also took this line out of context. "If your  dwell meter has no scale
for four cylinder engines than just adjust the CO  to the maximum swing of
the needle."

As you adjust your CO, and the ECU is working, the needle will pulse or
swing, it will NEVER stay at maximum swing, therefore the average of the
swing is the obtainable reading.

The next line in my email states that the owner would have to test drive the
car and perform additional adjustments as required. Since he obviously
didn't provide a picture of his dwell meter it is difficult to provide
precise information on how, the owner, is to read his meter.

As providers of information we can only reply in broad based answers. I also
said that a lean mixture would make the car harder to start, meaning if he
adjusted the CO to the maximum, then he would probably have to make further
adjustments, richer or leaner..

If you would like to continue this debate we can do so off line.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: [DML] Dwelling on da dwell...

You wrote this, but I'm not sure it's accurate.  Maybe I'm not
understanding
what you mean by

"If your  dwell meter has no scale for four cylinder engines than just
adjust
the CO  to the maximum swing of the needle."

If the needle were to swing to the maximum or 100% then that woluld mean
the
frequency valve would be on all the time.







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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 11:22:33 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Delorean Sighting - Hemmings Classic Car Magazine



While sitting on an airplane flying from Houston to Denver I was thumbing through the March 2006 issue of this magazine. On page 72 is an article about George H. Rothacker automobile artist. 


The opening picture is of Mr. Rothhacker working on a picture of a Red Delorean. The car gets no mention in the article but I  just wanted to share my very shocking find.

Dan Haney
vin 3254

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 17:08:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Funny "whizzing" sound from engine

If the sound varies in relation to the speed of the motor it is
probably something to do with the belts. The possabilitoes include:
loose/worn belts
alternator bearings
water pump bearings
idler pulley bearings.
One way to go is to remove a belt and see if the noise goes away. the
motor will run for a while without the belts, just don't run it too
long or it will overheat. If the noise varies to road speed it is
related to the "running gear" like CV joints, transmission, etc. Is
the car a 5-speed or  an automatic? A whirring or whizzing noise from
the automatic transmission is BAD. Check the fluid level, replace the
filter, and check the line pressure. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am not sure how to describe this sound I hear from my engine, but 
> its like a whirring, whizzing sound I get during various times when 
> accellerating.  It does not affect the engine performance when I gas 
> it.  It seems to come from the engine compartment.  It sort of so








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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 14:22:33 -0500
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Pheasant Run is Creeping up...Get your hotel rooms fast

I just looked at the calendar and realized how fast the show is  
creeping up on us.  A little over 4 months and we'll be walking  
around admiring a convention center filled with Stainless Steel  
beauties.  I just wanted to remind everyone one more time, make  
reservations for the hotel rooms TODAY!   Unlike the last show, there  
is a giant Corvette show going on at the same resort during the same  
days as the DeLorean show.  The set aside DeLorean rooms are going  
fast, and once those are gone you may be SOL.  The Corvette owners no  
doubt have the other rooms booked, so hurry up and get your name on  
the reservation list today!  Lets reach the goal of well over 150  
DeLoreans in attendance.

The number for the Pheasant Run resort hotel is: 800-999-3319 and  
tell them you are with the DeLorean car show.  I booked my room and  
it was fast and easy.

Like most of you I delete a lot of the DML emails without reading  
them, I just wanted to remind you all in case you did that to the  
previous DCS email this week.

See you in 4 months!  Time to start detailing your D's...
-Patrick C.
Vin 1880







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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 19:55:09 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Sighting - Hemmings Classic Car Magazine

Here is a link to the painting in question.  There's even an explaination behind the 
painting.

http://www.georgerothacker.com/studio/s05.17.html

Corey
2423


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dan Haney <DRHANEY_at_dml_...> wrote:

> While sitting on an airplane flying from Houston to Denver I was thumbing through 
the March 2006 issue of this magazine. On page 72 is an article about George H. 
Rothacker automobile artist. 
> 
> 
> The opening picture is of Mr. Rothhacker working on a picture of a Red Delorean. 






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 15:31:43 -0500
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Mileage

Approx 5000 miles on mine this past year.

Engine/Trans = stock/manual
13.44 	Worst recorded MPG
23.35 	Best recorded MPG
18.07	Average MPG 

0-60 = never timed

Michael
VIN 3472

>   





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