From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:08 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3115

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fixed my antenna, sort of...
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Auto tranny noise.
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

4. Re: Re: Video Clips of Delorean or the DMC?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Re: Auto tranny noise.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Video Clips etc...
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Fixed my antenna, sort of...
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

10. DeLorean Storage
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. Re: Auto tranny noise.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

12. Re: Video Clips etc...
From: Nigel Clarke <clarkenigel_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. antenna replacemet
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net

14. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: DeLorean Storage
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: DeLorean Storage
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: antenna replacemet
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. AW: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

22. Navigation System
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

23. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. "Anything to Win" on GSN
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: Navigation System
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2006 22:10:25 -0800
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fixed my antenna, sort of...

Nathan,

You can buy a brand new antenna for $18: http://store.teptronics.com/ln46.html

-Ryan

On 2/10/06, valleyrat12 <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I disassembled my antenna to find that the nylon feed gear was broken 
> in a couple of places. I went to Pep Boys and purchased one that 
> looked "close" to the original. It took a few attempts but finally the 
> mechanism accepted the new antenna.
>
> The only problem is that sometimes the antenna does not make it all 
> the way down. It gets stuck and then does not complete retraction. If 
> I help it a little bit it will retract all the way. I greased up the 
> nylon gear really good, it almost seems like it gets caught up on the 
> creases in the feed gear from when it was packaged. Has anyone else 
> had this experience? Do I need to adjust something?
>
> Nathan
> 2277 (now with working radio)
>


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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 01:49:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Auto tranny noise.

Ok, here's a new one.

I've noticed this has started the last week or so.

I'll be driving around, and sometimes when I sit at a stop light, I can hear a "click" noise.  I'll be fully at a stop, and this noise will happen after 5-10 seconds of sitting idle.  Imagine the sides of the brake pads hitting the sides of the brake claiper - that's the "kind" of noise it sounds like - almost like 2 granite rocks hitting - like a "chink" almost. 
Anyhoo, this will happen when sitting at a stop light, or if I brake firmly and then accelerate quickly.  I can make the noise occur at will if I put the transmission in "P", then shifting to "D" - it will do it every time warm engine.  I have not tried it cold as it's 3:46am, and I just realized I could make the noise occur at will.  I'll try it cold tomorrow morning, but does anyone have any ideas?  I have had a very slow tranny leak for a long time and have avoided the temptation to add more fluid as that would be bad to overfill.  It is really late, so I did not check the fluid level.  The governor only has about 12k miles on it.  

Jeremiah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 17:42:50 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

Hi everyone

My car has been hunting at idle (cold) for a while now but it sorts 
itself out when the engine is hot but I wanted to cure it so I turned 
the 2 screws that are infront of the air box and now the car sounds 
even worse, I turned them clockwise about 1 full rotation each.

I am not sure how to correct it and I can smell gas so I know I have 
made the car too rich but what screw does what???

I know not to touch the screw with the slotted head but the two in 
front of it are really loose and can turn by hand with no effort.

Is there a way I can go back to the start and set them without 
damaging the car.

Alistair.







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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 12:17:16 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Video Clips of Delorean or the DMC?

At the rist of repeating this (haven't paid any attention to his thread, 
sorry!)

http://www.emagineproductions.co.uk/delorean/

The footage from Knebworth of the annual classic car show, taken by 
Stuart Nicholls, experimenting with his new "Polecam". Stu is a 
cameraman.by trade.

Martin






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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 18:47:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny noise.

My guess would be a broken motor mount or transmission mount. Have 
someone sit in the car, foot on the brake, hand brake on etc. and 
switch it between the gears with the engine running. You squat behind 
the car and watch the motor mounts on either side of the engine. If 
one is broken the engine will appear to lift right off of it. Trans 
mounts are a bit harder to spot - what you are looking for there is 
actually cracked steel.

Another thought - CV joints cause this sort of noise if extremely 
worn. To get extremely worn, you need to drive for a long time with a 
split CV boot. 

On the other topic  - if the trans is leaking you NEED to keep the 
level up. I guarantee it's worse on the trans to be too empty than 
too full. Too empty will burn up $1000 worth of parts in no time (or 
a whole $4500 trans). Too full makes a mess on your garage floor. 
Which is easier to deal with? 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Ok, here's a new one.
> 
> I've noticed this has started the last week or so.
> 
> I'll be driving around, and sometimes when I sit at a
> stop light, I can hear a "click" noise.  I'll be fully
> at a stop, and this noise will happen after 5-10
> seconds of sitting idle.  Imagine the sides of the
> brake pads hitting the sides of the brake claiper -
> that's the "kind" of noise it sounds like - almost
> like 2 granite rocks hitting - like a "chink" almost. 
> Anyhoo, this will happen when sitting at a stop light,
> or if I brake firmly and then accelerate quickly.  I
> can make the noise occur at will if I put the
> transmission in "P", then shifting to "D" - it will do
> it every time warm engine.  I have not tried it cold
> as it's 3:46am, and I just realized I could make the
> noise occur at will.  I'll try it cold tomorrow
> morning, but does anyone have any ideas?  I have had a
> very slow tranny leak for a long time and have avoided
> the temptation to add more fluid as that would be bad
> to overfill.  It is really late, so I did not check
> the fluid level.  The governor only has about 12k
> miles on it.  
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 13:50:21 -0500
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

I thought I heard those did nothing really on our engines.  I was  
told to tighten them up and then back them off about half a turn.

Mine were loose as well (spun by hand) and I had the 'hunting' idle,  
so I tightened them up by hand and there was no difference.  Once  
tight, I backed them off about a turn and there still was no  
difference.  I left them like that.

Why not mess with the one with the slotted head?  I've never heard that

-Patrick C.
1880

On Feb 12, 2006, at 12:42 PM, Alistair McCann wrote:

> Hi everyone
>
> My car has been hunting at idle (cold) for a while now but it sorts
> itself out when the engine is hot but I wanted to cure it so I turned
> the 2 screws that are infront of the air box and now the car sounds
> even worse, I turned them clockwise about 1 full rotation each.
>
> I am not sure how to correct it and I can smell gas so I know I have
> made the car too rich but what screw does what???
>
> I know not to touch the screw with the slotted head but the two in
> front of it are really loose and can turn by hand with no effort.





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 11:34:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Video Clips etc...

One thing before you proceed.  Make to get permission from Tamir (or anyone else) if you are going to use stuff from their sites.

When this baby hits 88mph, you're gonna see some serious shit!
	





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:02:04 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fixed my antenna, sort of...

I did the $15 Pep Boys "close to" antenna mast replacement too.  
As it turned out, the antenna I selected had a "ball" too large to 
fit through the top nut. Nutless, mine vibrates a tiny bit but works 
OK otherwise.  

Anyone else considering this replacement option might want to match 
their old belt teeth to the new one AND consider the size of the 
ball before purchasing a mast.

One issue might be that your mast is rubbing against the opening in 
the pontoon, preventing smooth retraction.

I had to cycle the antenna about a dozen times before it would 
retract completely.  As I observed the antenna, I got my son to 
cycle the radio power on/off each time the antenna stopped moving. 
(You could probably use your rearview mirror to monitor the antenna 
while you controlled the power.) The spool eventually accepted the 
whole length of belt.  

You might want to compare the length of your new belt with the 
combined pieces of the old one.  I believe I had to shorten mine a 
little to help eliminate the symptoms you describe. If you don't 
have the old pieces, trim very gradually or you'll be headed back to 
Pep Boys! :)

As I recall, the end of the belt on my new mast had a shape that may 
have slipped a little and retraction wouldn't always start promptly. 
I'm not positive the antenna motor's run is time-based, but the 
motor "seemed" to time out before the antenna got all the way down. 
I remember trimming mine to match the shape on the original and it 
seemed to help retraction start more consistently and end more 
completely.  

Of course, your mast and experiences may vary.  Hope this helps.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I disassembled my antenna to find that the nylon feed gear was 
broken 
> in a couple of places. I went to Pep Boys and purchased one that 
> looked "close" to the original. It took a few attempts but finally 
the 
> mechanism accepted the new antenna. 
> 
> The only problem is that sometimes the antenna does not make it 
all 
> the way down. It gets stuck and then does not complete retraction. 
If 
> I help it a little bit it will retract all the way. I greased up 
the 
> nylon gear really good, it almost seems like it gets caught up on 
the 
> creases in the feed gear from when it was packaged. Has anyone 
else 
> had this experience? Do I need to adjust something?
> 
> Nathan
> 2277 (now with working radio)
>










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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:08:23 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

I was under the impression that the last screw is the idle speed 
setting screw and that you can screw the engine up if you fiddle with 
it.

Although I could be wrong!!

Alistair.







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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:17:53 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: DeLorean Storage

Not sure if this has ever been brought up or not (hadn't had time to
run a search), but is there anyone who takes DeLoreans for long term
storage? Perhaps a vendor? When I have to go on tour, I'd like my car
to sit somewhere safe. Thank you all -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:21:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny noise.

Broken motor mounts are a possability but unlikely on an automatic.
Much more likely would be a problem with the half-shafts. Either
something loosened up or a worn C/V joint. Another thing to check is
the trailing arm bolts. You could have a loose or bent one and the
shims dropped out allowing the arm to move and click. The thing to do
would be to get the car up and start looking around. Maybe have
someone shift the car with the BOTH wheels off the ground and try to
find the source of the noise. It can be difficult to locate noises.
The seem to come from one place and they are really from something
else. Check the body bolts too. In fact, clicking noises can come from
the front of the car too. A bad bushing on the sway bar for instance.
Or a loose lug nut. As for the trans leak, if it is small you can live
with it but NEVER let the level get low. Best to try to fix the leak.
Check the final drive level too while you have the car up. A problem
with the shift computer usually doesn't make any noise (at least not a
loud clicking). If the noise is internal to the transmssion there is
nothing you can do short of rebuilding it. Not likely though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My guess would be a broken motor mount or transmission mount. Have 
> someone sit in the car, foot on the brake, hand brake on etc. and 
> switch it between the gears with the engine running. You squat behind 
> the car and watch the motor mounts on either side of the engine. If 
> one is broken the engine will appear to lift right off of it. Trans 
> mounts are a bit harder to spot - what you are looking for there is 
> actually cracked steel.
> 
>








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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 15:49:42 -0500
From: Nigel Clarke <clarkenigel_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Video Clips etc...

Tom,

Will do....don't worry, I don't plan on opening  the reel until 1985!

On 2/12/06, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> One thing before you proceed.  Make to get permission from Tamir (or
> anyone else) if you are going to use stuff from their sites.





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:10:23 +0000
From: dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: antenna replacemet

They have the correct black antenna replacement at Houston.

It just looks better than the chrome ones most replacements  are IMHO.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 15:29:31 -0500
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

I could be very wrong too.  Looking up the answers in the archives  
and on vendors sites I found these:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idleadj.jpg
John says to tighten down all 3 screws.

And as Bruce Benson said in 1996 on the DML:  "Be sure the three  
adjustment screws in the throttle valve ass'y are closed as
they aren't used in the DeLorean."

Full page is here: http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/jan96files/ 
dml060.html

And the shop manual says:  "The throttle body on the PRV V-6 engine  
contains an air adjusting
screw and two air balancing screws.  These adjustment screws
are not used on the De Lorean since an electronic idle speed control
system is used.  The air adjusting screw should be fully seated to
eliminate any air bypass at the throttle plates."

My guess would be to tighten them all down.  I'm sure someone who is  
more experienced in the field can elaborate on why.

In any case, tightening them down had no effect or change on my car.
-Patrick C.
1880



On Feb 12, 2006, at 3:08 PM, Alistair McCann wrote:

> I was under the impression that the last screw is the idle speed
> setting screw and that you can screw the engine up if you fiddle with
> i





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 16:45:04 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

 
 
The reason they should be closed is because in the trim that our PRV is in,  
the idle speed motor electrically controls idle speed, where as other  
applications of the PRV do not have this device and would then use the 3 brass  
screws. The one screw is what sets how much air goes past the throttle plate at  
idle while the other two are for balancing each side of the engine if need  be.  
That's why the screws should be closed. If they aren't, the idle speed  motor 
cannot do its job of properly metering air at idle speed.  If your  car runs 
WORSE with the screws closed down, well that's because someone thought  they 
should be used and they messed a bunch of other stuff up while compensating  
for letting air through which THEN would mean that car was never set up and  
running right in the first place.
 
Andy
 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
 
In a message dated 2/12/2006 3:24:54 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com writes:

My guess  would be to tighten them all down.  I'm sure someone who is   
more experienced in the field can elaborate on why.

In any case,  tightening them down had no effect or change on my car.
-Patrick  C.
1880





Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 16:46:41 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean Storage

 
 
Dani,
 
Just dont leave it at the Jag Shop!!
Check archives if you don't get the joke!
Andy
 
In a message dated 2/12/2006 2:27:03 P.M. Central Standard Time,  5n-_at_dml_gmx.net 
writes:

Not sure  if this has ever been brought up or not (hadn't had time to
run a search),  but is there anyone who takes DeLoreans for long term
storage? Perhaps a  vendor? When I have to go on tour, I'd like my car
to sit somewhere safe.  Thank you all -----Dani B. #5003



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 21:51:47 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Storage

Ken Koncelik has a very nice storage facility  - just outside of 
Cincinnati Ohio. Safe and heated. Usually boats, DeLoreans, and other 
collector cars. Just make sure Josh understands that its not a parts 
car.....

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Not sure if this has ever been brought up or not (hadn't had time to
> run a search), but is there anyone who takes DeLoreans for long term
> storage? Perhaps a vendor? When I have to go on tour, I'd like my car
> to sit somewhere safe. Thank you all -----Dani B. #5003
>








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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 16:55:37 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: antenna replacemet

 
 
Not to mention it would save a lot of time dinking around with cutting and  
comparing antennas from 2.5 decades apart and risk damaging the OEM motor.   I 
tried to do this same thing on my Lexus when the antenna bent but I just  
couldn't get the antenna to go in right.  Then I got the OEM one from the  dealer 
which was much more expensive but it went right in the first time and  I've 
had no problems since. Plus I'd rather the right color as you say  Cecil.
 
 
Andy
>>>>>>>>>>>>
In a message dated 2/12/2006 3:24:50 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
dmc82_at_dml_comcast.net writes:

They  have the correct black antenna replacement at Houston.

It just looks  better than the chrome ones most replacements  are IMHO.

Cecil  Longwisch
#10663



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 22:02:24 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

The idle speed motor takes the place of the 3 brass screws, this is
why they are not needed on the DeLorean. Certain versions of the PRV
(such as Carbureted) didn't have the idle speed motor and needed these
screws to adjust the amount of air each bank of cylinders needed.
Unless you have no idle speed motor-keep them all seated. 

As a side note:
The idle speed motor regulates the amount of air going into the
engine, thats why when your cooling fans kick on- your engine revs
higher to compensate for the increased power draw (Increasing
air=Increased RPMS=More power from alternator)-the idle motor adjusts
allowing additional air to increase the RPMS. Adjusting the screws
with the idle motor will possibly allow too much air, which will
eventually lead to mixture problems depending on how much extra air it
is getting.

-----Dani B.#5003








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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 23:06:06 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

Hi Alistair

On most cars, the brass screws should be screwed all the way in gently. 
If they're making an obvious difference on a warm engine other than just 
picking the idlespeed up when you undo them, then there's something 
wrong with the idlespeed system elsewhere. The slotted screw is a bleed 
past the throttles, the next two then divert to one or other bank, so 
with the slotted screw all the way in, the other two do nothing, unless 
you undo them so far you start getting a vacuum leak, which I'm 
wondering may be the problem here.

I've banged on about the brass screws on a few occasions before :-) But 
the quick answer is no: you won't break anything by playing with them.

A hunting idle on a cold engine still equipped with a lambda system is 
quite normal. If it starts perfectly from cold, then hunts for a minute 
or two and suddenly stops, (sometimes changing to a slow very slight 
wavering of revs) with the frequency valve still buzzing, then she's 
healthy.

All the best

Martin

Alistair McCann wrote:

>Hi everyone
>
>My car has been hunting at idle (cold) for a while now but it sorts 
>itself out when the engine is hot but I wanted to cure it so I turned 
>the 2 screws that are infront of the air box and now the car sounds 
>even worse, I turned them clockwise about 1 full rotation each.
>
>I am not sure how to correct it and I can smell gas so I know I have 
>made the car too rich but what screw does what???
>
>I know not to touch the screw with the slotted head but the two in 
>front of it are really loose and can turn by hand with no effort.
>
>Is there a way I can go back to the start and set them without 
>damaging the car.
>
>Alistair.
>  
>







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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 23:16:51 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

Hey Dani,

don't know what kind of car you have, but your side note 
doesn't fit on my Delorean or any other non modified one.

The fans don't increase idle speed and I don't know why 
playing with the brass screws would do anything to the
mixture at all.

Opening the brass screws a bit may reduce idle hunting.
But opening too wide will rise it above 775rpm so that
the electronical idle system can't reduce it anymore.

Elvis & 6548 (in winter sleep)





The idle speed motor takes the place of the 3 brass screws, this is
why they are not needed on the DeLorean. Certain versions of the PRV
(such as Carbureted) didn't have the idle speed motor and needed these
screws to adjust the amount of air each bank of cylinders needed.
Unless you have no idle speed motor-keep them all seated. 

As a side note:
The idle speed motor regulates the amount of air going into the
engine, thats why when your cooling fans kick on- your engine revs
higher to compensate for the increased power draw (Increasing
air=Increased RPMS=More power from alternator)-the idle motor adjusts
allowing additional air to increase the RPMS. Adjusting the screws
with the idle motor will possibly allow too much air, which will
eventually lead to mixture problems depending on how much extra air it
is getting.

-----Dani B.#5003






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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 23:45:14 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Navigation System

Anybody have any luck installing a DVD player and navigation system in 
their car?  They have the ones that fit in the size of a CD player, 
that slide out and fold up into a 7 inch screen.  Problem is the 
screen blocks the air vents.  Anybody know of one where the screen 
folds down when it slides out?







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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 01:17:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

You're getting close! Actually the idle speed motor system is a
dynamic idle control. As the load changes on an idling motor the idle
motor system can detect the change in load (the motor will slow down)
and it changes the amount of air it bypasses to hold the idle speed
constant. There are several things that can affect the idle speed. A
large draw on the electrical system can increase the load on the
alternator slowing down the motor. Turning on the A/C certainly will
load the motor down. On an automatic, shifting into drive will slow
the motor down. With the Idle motor system the idle speed stays
steady. If you were to run on the screws they cannot modulate the idle
speed in response to varying loads on the motor. THAT is why you
should try to get and keep the idle motor system working. BTW the 3
screws are used during an emissions calibration so they should be left
working too. Just turned all the way in and lightly seated closed.
Actually only 1, the idle speed screw, needs to be closed. Once that
one is closed the balancing screws don't really matter but where ever
you set them they should both be set the same.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> The idle speed motor takes the place of the 3 brass screws, this is
> why they are not needed on the DeLorean. Certain versions of the PRV
> (such as Carbureted) didn't have the idle speed motor and needed these
> screws to adjust the amount of air each bank of cylinders needed.
> 








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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 01:20:36 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: "Anything to Win" on GSN

I DVR'd this weekend's "Anything to Win" show on GSN (about some folks 
who rigged the PA lottery in 1980). Near the end of the show they ran a 
30 second promotion for the John DeLorean episode that runs next week. 
In addition to some of the normal footage of John and the factory, 
there were a couple of quick clips including a shot of DMC Houston and 
an interview with Tamir Ardon. Looks pretty good so far, although I'm 
sure it won't be particularly complimentary toward JZD. 

On my cable system it isn't part of basic cable, it's up in 
the "digital only" channels, and it runs at least three times. 

Dave Swingle








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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:31:50 -0500
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Navigation System

On some models there is a button that will flip the screen down,  
still sticking it straight out, so the vents will blow and you will  
still hear the navigation commands.

I recommend going to Tamir's site at www.entermyworld.com and looking  
at Robert's Lotus Engine conversion project and videos.  He installed  
a nice flip up navigation system that I would love to have.  $1700 is  
a little steep for those though.

-Patrick C.
1880


On Feb 12, 2006, at 6:45 PM, tuxr wrote:

> Anybody have any luck installing a DVD player and navigation system in
> their car?  They have the ones that fit in the size of a CD player,
> that slide out and fold up into a 7 inch screen.  Problem is the
> screen blocks the air vents.  Anybody know of one where the screen
> folds down when it slides out?




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