From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 5:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3117

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. air box leakage
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

2. Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Do I have the "hot start" problem?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

4. Re: "The crash of John DeLorean" story.
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. Re: Navigation System
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: Navigation System
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: Navigation System
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

8. Re: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: Do I have the "hot start" problem?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. RE: New Owner 8:00 2/8/06 Vin #d000764
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

11. RE: Navigation System
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

12. Re: Navigation System
From: ". ." <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>

13. Re: air box leakage
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>

14. Re: DeLorean Storage
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. DeLorean in Broadway Musical?
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: Do I have the "hot start" problem?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 13:39:55 +0000
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: air box leakage

Hi,

I'm overhauling the cockpit of my delorean becuase the blower doesnt operate properly - i have the knee pads and center console removed, and i have removed the plastic ducting box that sits on the front of the main heater/ac air box. this leaves the main box completely exposed.

at some point someone has had this all to peices and really botched putting it back together again (the actuator that sits to the right of the radio and operates the flap behind the two courtesy vents on the center console has the top snapped off, and the spring was lying on the floor behind the air box, mountings are snapped, gaskets torn, screws screwed diagonally into plastic, and all manner of other horrors)

i have determined that the common problem with the foam that blanks the redundant hole in the back of the main air box is an issue with my car - one corner is peeled away, so i will glue this back on. i have serviced the blower motor and oiled the bearings.

i am going to test any actuators i can access.

is there anything anyone can think of that i ought to check before i put it all back together again?

also, i'm not sure if this is right, but on the front of the main air box, there is a flap that opens to feed air to that front ducting box that i removed. beneath it is an identical metal flap that is sealed shut (obviously blanking a redundant vent from some other car) the trouble is there is a 5mm gap between the flap and the blank. i'm sure this shouldnt be the case, and is in fact an air leak. can someone confirm this?

thanks,

James Pilcher - VIN 5380 (UK)

		
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To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 04:56:57 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

I stand corrected; I added this information going by the volvo CIS
manual that I read long ago. It's in the volvo system that the idle
speed motor increases the idle speed during A/Cload for increased
power as well as increase cooling (Radiator/condensor located in front
of engine).  At the time for some reason I was thinking it was the
same on the DeLorean. Thank you for the correction...My apologies!
-----dani b. #5003

>
>
> Errrm.... almost entirely inaccurate I'm afraid...
> 
> The idlespeed system is a closed-loop system and is designed to keep
the 
> idle constant regardless of temperature or load, so when the fans kick 
> on, you may well see a sudden drop in RPM followed by it picking
back up 
> again to 850 plus-or-minus 25 (ignore the rev counter, it's not that 
> accurate). Adjusting the brass screws may allow too much air in if you 
> keep going to beyond the point where the idlespeed motor can
compensate, 
> although taking it up to this threshold can be beneficial. You won't 
> create mixture problems because the air passing through the "screws" is 
> metered, unless you back them off so far that you create a vacuum leak.
> 
> A quirk of the system is that a rich running engine sends the idlespeed 
> into oscillation - a condition experienced on a cold engine with lambda 
> (original, in other words)
> 
> Martin
> 
> stainlessilusion wrote:
> 
> >As a side note:
> >The idle speed motor regulates the amount of air going into the
> >engine, thats why when your cooling fans kick on- your engine revs
> >higher to compensate for the increased power draw (Increasing
> >air=Increased RPMS=More power from alternator)-the idle motor adjusts
> >allowing additional air to increase the RPMS. Adjusting the screws
> >with the idle motor will possibly allow too much air, which will
> >eventually lead to mixture problems depending on how much extra air it
> >is getting.
> >  
> >
>








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 14:25:33 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Do I have the "hot start" problem?

My car will start flawlessy when cold and runs very smoothly for the 
first run  of the day.  However, after about 20 minutes to an hour 
after this first run, I have trouble starting it.  It will crank and 
crank for a few minutes before it fires.  Once I get it started, it 
runs a little rough.  It will also start right up again if I run into 
a store for a couple of minutes - it fires right back up.  It's just 
this magic time after about 20 minutes while the engine is still warm. 
Is this the classic hot start issue?  If so, is it usually the fuel 
accumulator?  I hear this is diffcult to change.  Are there good step 
by step instructions posted for replacing this?  Also, is there a 
possibility that there's a problem with the fuel pump?  Any help or 
advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul,
Vin 10944 








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 08:50:21 -0500
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: "The crash of John DeLorean" story.

Legal discussions aside... I know someone who has a Tivo+DVD burner
unit. If anyone wants a copy of this episode, I'm sure they'd be
willing to burn and send a copy for cost+shipping.  If anyone is
interested, you can email me directly for more info.

-Hank  heskin(at)gmail.com




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 10:34:12 -0600
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Navigation System

I built a very custom system for about $1k.  I haven't put up a lot of
pictures or details yet, but I have one good shot online that really
shows what I did to avoid the screen vs. vents issue:
http://negative3kelvin.com/car_dash.jpg

That's a 7" diagonal wide format touchscreen with a native resolution
of 800x480.  Although I haven't installed any DVD player software, the
system does have a DVD drive.  It has navigation software, phone
control / handsfree software, and music playing features.  The system
itself is not pictured there.  The housing for the screen is ABS
plastic shaped that way, covered with batting and black vinyl.

--Greg
#2894

On 2/12/06, tuxr <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
> Anybody have any luck installing a DVD player and navigation system in
> their car?  They have the ones that fit in the size of a CD player,
> that slide out and fold up into a 7 inch screen.  Problem is the
> screen blocks the air vents.  Anybody know of one where the screen
> folds down when it slides out?




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 09:59:12 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Navigation System

That looks AWESOME.   Nice job.  Matt...5586 AZ-D


>From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Navigation System
>
>I built a very custom system for about $1k.  I haven't put up a lot of pictures or details yet,




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 09:23:06 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Navigation System

I did something the same way a few years ago....someone was custom building 
the unit but I built my own of thin plywood.  I took it  to an upholstery 
shop and had them pad and cover it with same material as my dash...they even 
put in the "french seams" sewn exactly like the ones on the DeLorean...I put 
a small TV in it, but it was not very successful so it is no longer there. I 
used it to house other stuff though.  It fits the contours of the dash 
exactly and looks like it came with the car. You have a great idea though 
with the GPS System.

Murray
Vin:  05962
Lic:  DMC-XII 





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 16:53:31 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

I've got the Renault manual here too and it describes putting vacuum 
advance on the distributor when the ac is switched on!

Martin

stainlessilusion wrote:

>I stand corrected; I added this information going by the volvo CIS
>manual that I read long ago. It's in the volvo system that the idle
>speed motor increases the idle speed during A/Cload for increased
>power as well as increase cooling (Radiator/condensor located in front
>of engine).  At the time for some reason I was thinking it was the
>same on the DeLorean. Thank you for the correction...My apologies!
>-----dani b. #5003
>
>  
>







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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 17:28:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Do I have the "hot start" problem?

It would seem so. One way to confirm would be to do the "Plug Swap".
If it starts right up then you can figure at least the fuel
accumulator. You could also need to clean and replace the "O" rings in
the Primary Pressure Regulator, the check valve on the fuel pump, and
you could also have a problem with the Control Pressure Regulator (not
likely since you say it warms up OK). In many cases it is not one
single thing causing a problem, it can be an assortment of things.
Check the vacuum lines going to the CPR, make sure they are not
leaking and are hooked up correctly. Changing the fuel accumulator is
difficult only becuase of the place it is in, it is difficult to
access. Use metric open end wrenches and DO NOT kink, twist, or damage
the hard lines. Wear eye protection and nitrile gloves. Work in a well
ventilated area with the car up high on jackstands or a lift. The fuel
pump is not usually the culprit but it is always a good idea to remove
it and inspect the insides of the fuel tank. Remove the fuel and wipe
the insides. Inspect all of the parts in the tank and replace any that
are deteriorated. Replace the fuel filter after using up a tank of gas
after replacing the accumulator.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My car will start flawlessy when cold and runs very smoothly for the 
> first run  of the day.  However, after about 20 minutes to an hour 
> after this first run, I have trouble starting it.  It will crank and 
> crank for a few minutes before it fires.  Once I get it started, it 
> runs a little rough.  It will also start right up again if I run into 
> 









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 10:58:52 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: New Owner 8:00 2/8/06 Vin #d000764

Mine sat for 12 years - here is what I did - 

Pull the pump and baffle out of the tank ant thoroughly muck it out by
hand.  I eventually used carb cleaner and rags.  At the same time, send
you injectors out to be cleaned and tested - you won't be needing them
for a while.

Then I replaced the fuel filter.  I purchased a $15 low pressure fuel
pump and a handful of inline paper filters.  I unhooked the fuel feed
and return lines from the distributor, and using a bolt and washers was
able to tie them together, completely bypassing the entire fuel system
in the engine compartment.  Then I got a gallon or two of B12 and a
plastic tub.  I used the cheap pump to circulate B12 through the system,
with a filter on the return line where it dumped into the tub.  I'd if
for 10 minutes, then dump the B12, change the paper filter, add fresh
B12 and run again.  Eventually the system ran clean.  I then immediately
flushed the system with gasoline - B12 is not great for some rubber
components.  The replace the fuel accumulator, any fuel lines, the pump
and pickup, re-install the baffle, the main fuel filter (yes again) -
the tiny O ring in the fuel distributor, re-install your injectors with
new boots, and your fuel system should be good to go. 

You will still need a full tune up, a clean up of the valley of death,
Your water pump, hoses and radiator are probably in very rough shape,
replace your coil cap rotor wires and plugs, your vacuum lines and
belts, get an Optima battery, check your fluids, and try to start her.
If your like me that will take until August.

Don't leave gas sitting in the tank all that time or you may have to
start over.

Most of all - have fun.  Nothing here is as terrible as it sounds.

Final advice - go to a junkyard and find a Volvo with a B28f engine and
pull everything apart including the intake manifold, even the water
pump. - it's a great confidence builder on an engine that is not your
own.

Good luck.

Tom




>From: "apexrmb" <Apexrmb_at_dml_earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: [DML] New Owner 8:00 2/8/06 Vin #d000764
>
>Thanks, Its been siting for 14 years. Previous owner garage it since 
>the fuel pump went out.
>
>Apexrmb





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:09:28 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Navigation System

Greg:

I note you also have an auto dimming rear view mirror - can you or
anyone comment on windshield mounting for this unit?

Tom
#10902 

-----Original Message-----

http://negative3kelvin.com/car_dash.jpg





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 12:49:21 -0700
From: ". ." <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
Subject: Re: Navigation System

tuxdarby:

One of my friend had a such a DVD player and a Nintendo units installed in his DeLorean.  The installer was a friend of his who's primary businesses is in the sales and the 
installation of automotive audio and electronic equipments.  What the installer did was he re-routed the air vent to the bottom where the original position of the radio had 
sat and mounted the DVD player unit on the top.  This allowed the screen to slide in and out and to prompt up as designed without any major modifications or add ons to 
dashboard or the climate control panel and the air vent does work perfectly too.  He also had a fantastic sound system with high power amps and speakers installed to 
compliment the video system.  He had attend the Mid-Atlantic Fall meet some (three???) years ago and many of the members who saw the system and the installation were 
impress.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY

> 
> On 2/12/06, tuxr <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
> > Anybody have any luck installing a DVD player and navigation system in their car? 




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:22:47 -0000
From: "dmcchaser" <dmcchaser_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: air box leakage

Any possibility of taking some pics for reference?  Or are there some
on the web already?

Matt Smith
#2868

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> I'm overhauling the cockpit of my delorean becuase the blower doesnt 
> operate properly - i have the knee pads and center console removed, and 
> i have removed the plastic ducting box that sits on the front of the 
> main heater/ac air box. this leaves the main box completely exposed.
> 
> at some point someone has had this all to peices and really botched 
> putting it back together again (the actuator that sits to the right of 
> the radio and operates the flap behind the two courtesy vents on the 
> center console has the top snapped off, and the spring was lying on the 
> floor behind the air box, mountings are snapped, gaskets torn, screws 
> screwed diagonally into plastic, and all manner of other horrors)
> 
> i have determined that the common problem with the foam that blanks the 
> redundant hole in the back of the main air box is an issue with my
car - 
> one corner is peeled away, so i will glue this back on. 





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 13:07:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Storage

There's a link here: http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/links.htm
for Ken's buisness.
http://www.cincinnaticarstorage.com/

Shannon Y
16506

--------------------------------
 From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Storage

Ken Koncelik has a very nice storage facility  - just outside of 
Cincinnati Ohio. Safe and heated. Usually boats, DeLoreans, and other 
collector cars. Just make sure Josh understands that its not a parts 
car.....

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Not sure if this has ever been brought up or not (hadn't had time to
> run a search), but is there anyone who takes DeLoreans for long term
> storage? Perhaps a vendor? When I have to go on tour, I'd like my car
> to sit somewhere safe. Thank you all -----Dani B. #5003
>


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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 21:19:59 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: DeLorean in Broadway Musical?

Just thought I'd share this with the list - I was invited to the new 
musical production of 'The Wedding Singer' a few days ago.  (Yes - 
they actually made a musical of the movie, but it's not as bad as 
you might think!)  

The show is currently in pre-production here in Seattle before it 
goes to Broadway in New York City.  For the past couple of weeks, 
they bring in an audience to tweak the show based on reactions.  
They did an outstanding job on all the sets and numbers - lot's of 
special effects, lighting, musical numbers and, oh yes - the 
Delorean makes an appearance!  

They built a mock-up of just the front of the car with no 
windshield, roof or doors.  Just two seats where the actors sit 
while pretending to drive as the car approaches and backs out of 
stage.  For anyone else in the audience, it simply looked liked they 
chopped off the front end of the car and used it - but The scale was 
not exact, slightly smaller, but with front grill, DMC logo and 
working headlights. Most likely the stainless steel panels were 
actually painted or simulated, but from a distance it looked like 
the real thing.  They even used sound effects for the engine as the 
car pulls up and backs out (not an accurate recording of the engine -
 sounded like a chevy).  The car makes two major appearances during 
the show.  They also mention the car in dialog - 'know anyone who 
drives a Delorean?' and the film Back to the Future.  The show is 
set in 1985 so there's many references to everything 80's.

Too bad they couldn't use the real car - but as stage productions 
go, they did a great job.  I wish I could take pictures, but they 
don't allow photographs during performances.  I work near the 
theatre so I may try and contact the production to see if they have 
any photos.  If so, I'll post them here.

Greg
Seattle, WA
Vin 06840








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 23:49:19 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Do I have the "hot start" problem?

Almost 99% sure it is the classic hot start issue.

Here's a great guide.

http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/delorean/fuelaccum.htm


Not really that hard, just a bit time consuming if you have large
hands like me. Also recommended to replace the old fuel lines around
the accumulator "while you are in there" R&Ring it again to replace a
leaky line wouldn't be fun.


-Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851


 









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