From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3127

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Aw Crud!
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Delorean and the F-14
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

3. RE: Fuel issues
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. Re: Crankshaft nut
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Steering Wheel
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Delorean and the F-14
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

7. Re: Delorean and the F-14
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

8. Re: Yes, the same old exhaust question.....again
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Fuel issues
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Fuel issues
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

11. Re: Fuel issues
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: Fuel issues
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

13. DeLorean for sale - Clayton, nc
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

14. Re: Fuel issues
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

15. Re: Crankshaft nut
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: Re: Yes, the same old exhaust question.....again
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. Re: How does a company like Hemmings come up with such incorrect information?
From: "jakekamp" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. Re: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

19. Re: Fuel issues
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Obscure part needed
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

21. Stainless ripples
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Aw Crud!
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Crankshaft nut
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

24. Re: Delorean and the F-14
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. Re: Stainless ripples
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 07:43:43 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aw Crud!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> I usually tell people at car shows it's not really a high performance 
> car

You're right, it's not a high performance car. Spots car does not necessarily mean high performance. The Fiat X1/9 was a sports car, but was far from a high performance car. The Ford Taurus SHO was a high performance car, but you could hardly call it a sports car.


> it's more of a luxury GT, then everyone seems to understand what the 
> car is all about.

They do?


> It is definitely luxury for its time -  Take a look at a similar era 
> Lincoln or Cadillac and you will see that the DeLorean was lightyears 
> ahead of what the US auto industry considered 'luxury'.

Huh? First let's talk about the ride. A car's ride is the result of it's suspension. You either get great handling and a harsh ride, or a soft ride with poor handling. It's a trade off. Luxury cars feature soft rides. It's one of the things that makes them a "luxury car". The
DMC-12 ride is definitely not soft, nor is it's handling poor. My
DMC-12 has 18K miles. My steering and suspension are still tight, and I can say from experience that the DMC-12 does not offer a "luxury"
car ride. It falls more on the side a buckboard than a floating on air feeling. Both Cadillacs and Lincolns had VERY soft ride characteristics in the early 1980s. Also, even when new, the DMC-12's seat leather was not exactly the most supple, and the seats were not exactly soft. That's another clue you're not sitting in a luxury car.
And while the DMC-12 had many standard features you'd find as options on most other cars, it didn't even have a factory cruise control available. Any luxury touring automobile in that era would. That's a given. Most DMC-12 were manuals, not automatics, which would make no sense in a luxury car model, and hell, the automatics didn't even have an overdrive!! Not very luxury car-esque. Shall I go on?


> The only thing remotely close to the high visual appeal of the 
> interior would maybe be Mercedes, Porsche, and BMW.

That's purely subjective. By the way, early '80's Porsches were not luxury cars either. Expensive, but not luxurious. 


> Even '81 Ferrari 308's look dated today.

lol, okay whatever...

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D







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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 10:13:05 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Delorean and the F-14

Since a guy here in germany said on TV it takes 10 hours of maintenance to drive the car one hour, I don't think this is funny anymore.

Well and with the approximately 200 hours a year that I drive my baby, this would mean 2000 hours of working on it - ha ha.

But the F-14 is cool....first I saw Back to the Future - I wanted a Delorean.
Then I saw TOP GUN...and wanted a F-14 ;-)

Elvis & 6548


> I read an item in the morning paper about the F-14 Tom cat fighter 
> plane. The story said it took 50 hours of maintenance for ever hour of 
> flight, this is almost the same ratio of driving a Delorean. Gotta 
> love the Tomcat and the Delorean.
> 
> Andy B 3513




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 06:15:15 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Fuel issues

I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand new injectors I installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the system.  It started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. the running theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the system.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of seanhagan
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:49 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel issues


OK, I've had a few issues with my fuel system. It all started at a mall parking lot.

1. Replaced the boot as the old had disentragated into the tank.
2. Replaced the boot cap, as there was none.
3. Replaced the fuel line coming off the top of the pump, as it too was corroded, and broke when disconnecting it from the pump.
4. Replaced the filter in the baffle
5. Replaced the baffle with the John Hervey setup - Heard some good stuff from some of the guys at AZ-D who are running it, (seems to do the trick) - Since I replaced the entire baffle, there is no need to replace the hose that connects to the baffle 6. Replaced the fuel pump

Ran the car - Found that crud clogged up the new filter on the bottom of the pump.

Cleaned it out, cyphoned the tank (so that there was only about 1/3 of an inch of gas left in there. Wiped it all out (removing silicon stuff that someone had used to put back together the fuel sending unit, a random screw, and general crud on the bottom of the tank.))

Raised the fuel pump 1/4th of an inch to guarantee that the filter was not resting on the bottom of the baffle/tank

Filtered out the gas prior to putting it back into the tank. Ensured that all the crud (oil like goo with black lumps which used to be the boot for the gas pump) which had gathered on the bottom of the 5 gallon buckets did not go back into the tank.

Put all back in, shone a flash light into the tank. Ensured nothing was floating around. Put the fuel sending unit back on/in

Replaced an in-line fuel filter just above the pump (not sure why one is there, but put a new on in anyhow)

Ran the car - worked like a champ... Ran her around roundabouts, on the freeway, and it did great. Parked the car, happy as a clam. Went to go meet my wife for dinner, and put new high octane gas into the car. Filled the tank up about 100% of the way. The car all-but died.
Nothing I coudl do to keep the RPMs up. The car could be floored in Neutral, and I could barely get above 2800. Running in a gear was a joke. First gear running at 5mph, was about the fastest that I could go.

Turned off the car, started her back up --> could rev her up, but then same thing again when I had to turn a corner.

Got back to my garage, Left it running, ensured that there was nothgin squirting out when it was in neutral running. Found nothing. But what I did see was that the return line hole coming up from the boot, had allowed fuel to leak in and around the pump. Cleaned it out. Let the car cool (7pm).

Ran it again at 10pm (it was about 50 degrees outside) the car ran great when cold, but the second it warmed up to standard operating temperature, same thing. No power. No RPMs. Turn off the car, you can get it (the rpms) up there for a few seconds to pick up speed, but then that is it. I would almost venture to guess that it is flooded, but since there is no carb, that would probably not be the case.

Starts up good every time. Shone a light back into the tank, and the filter at the bottom of the pump seems to be clear and green.

Checked the connection at the bottom of the  inertia switch, it was not really hot, and appeared to be in good shape.

I could see from the car running (looking into the tank), that fuel was being sent back into the tank just could not see how much or how fast, not that I know how much or fast it is supposed to be.

When this is happening, the pump is quiet, ie not screaming.

Help!

Sean
3372
az-d





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 08:26:28 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Crankshaft nut

 
 
Mark,
 
The crankpulley nut is 36mm.  it doesn't fit super snug but the nut is  so big that it works anyway.
 
The timing cover, which I have not removed myself, also requires removal of the valve covers - if you look at it, the covers form part of the seal at the top.  
 
The front main seal is easy.  just slide the pulley off once you get  the nut off (it's not pressed on, just a couple of careful screwdrivers behind  it to pry it off will work - also make sure the woodruf key is at the 12 o'clock position), then pull the old seal out with some pliers or small screwdrivers (don't mar up the timing cover!).  To put the new double-lip Grady seal in, just put some motor oil around the seal and tap it in carefully with a rubber mallet.  There is nothing behind it to stop it so DON'T push it in  farther than flush with the timing cover.  I would recommend getting a  sleeve installed on the crank pulley too which Grady carries as well.  I  had a machine shop install it for me.
 
Andy
 
In a message dated 2/20/2006 1:30:37 A.M. Central Standard Time, dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:

In my  manuals it says it is a 35mm nut and a 36mm or 1 7/16 nut, what size is it  really for the Crankshaft pulley nut?

Also i plan on removing the  timing cover to replace the leaky gasket. 
From the pictures it looks easy  and like nothing will fall out but is there any thing that might fall out  or get out of adjustment?

Any special grease i need to use to replace  the rear main and front crank seal?

Thanks in advance.

Mark  V





Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 14:07:44 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Anyone know where to get a sporty steering wheel, with some silver in 
> it, something like the one that was on the cover of the DMCH magazine 
> several months back.  Also want to get a shift knob (automatic) with a 
> grip and silver in it.  Add the DMCH two tone seats and the inside is 
> done.

You may want to contact Ben Ferguson with the AZ-D. He just got a great looking steering wheel, but I can't remember who he go it from.
If you contact him I'm sure he's send you a pic and give you all the info.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 08:30:38 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: RE: Delorean and the F-14

Repair work versus driving.

I spent $15,000 to purchase and approximately 20 hours fixing up my last D of which most of the work was cosmetic and not required.

I drove it 85,000 miles and only had to change the oil and put on a set of tires.

That works out to 1 hour for every 4,250 miles of driving.

Then sold I it for $15,500.

Now I have a new one that I know will do as well.


Jack.
20069, 10002









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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 07:57:11 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean and the F-14

I've always noticed some similarity between the F-14 and the DeLorean by way of it's 'metal look' and the toll booth window design.  I love both of them! 
  I've been sorry to see the F-14 retire as it is one of my favorite fighters.
Matt Carpenter
5586
AZ-D


>From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean and the F-14
>Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 10:13:05 +0100 (MET)
>
>Since a guy here in germany said on TV it takes 10 hours of maintenance 
>to drive the car one hour, I don't think this is funny anymore.
>
>Well and with the approximately 200 hours a year that I drive my baby, 
>this would mean 2000 hours of working on it - ha ha.







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:06:31 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Yes, the same old exhaust question.....again

If you ever want to register the car in a major metropolis, ie LA, Sandiego, Phoenix, you need a cat. This was actually a deciding factor when I purchased my car. If it had no cat, I did not buy it. 

my 2 cents worth.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
>  So, what's it gonna be?? which system would you buy? DMCH's or the
UK
> set up?? Money no object neither are exchange rates but fit finish 
> sound is....prefer cat/no cat etc... Im all ears guys, Im still 
> undecided but want to purchase one real soon.
> thanks
>








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 15:33:30 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel issues

Threw in a bottle of STP injector cleaner already.

Sean


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand new
injectors I
> installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the
system.  It
> started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. the
running
> theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the system.
> 
> Darkstar
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:53:08 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel issues



I've clogged up fuel filters and carburetor orifices, by putting cleaners in the tank, and one time, by experimenting with xylene as an octane booster if I remember correctly.  Engines ran lean, same symptoms.  It took a few times to learn my lesson. I don't use in- tank cleaners anymore, feeling that if there's gummy gunk in the tank, it's probably best to leave it where it is, instead of letting it migrate downstream into critical places.  

If it were my car, I would immediately drain the tank, and use that fuel only in my lawnmower or dispose of it, then replace the filter and clean the injectors.

Good luck.

Rick.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Threw in a bottle of STP injector cleaner already.
> 
> Sean
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand new
> injectors I
> > installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the
> system.  It
> > started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. the
> running
> > theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the
system.
> > 
> > Darkstar
> > 
> 
> [long quote trimmed by moderator]
>








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:43:00 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel issues

That is scary! I just ordered new injectors because my originals were totally shot. Was there a way to reverse the damage to yours or were they ruined?

Nathan
2277
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand new
injectors I
> installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the
system.  It
> started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. the
running
> theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the system.
> 
> Darkstar
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf
> Of seanhagan
> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:49 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Fuel issues
> 
> 
> OK, I've had a few issues with my fuel system. It all started at a 
> mall parking lot.
> 
> 1. Replaced the boot as the old had disentragated into the tank.
> 2. Replaced the boot cap, as there was none.
> 3. Replaced the fuel line coming off the top of the pump, as it too 
> was corroded, and broke when disconnecting it from the pump.
> 4. Replaced the filter in the baffle
> 5. Replaced the baffle with the John Hervey setup - Heard some good 
> stuff from some of the guys at AZ-D who are running it, (seems to
do
> the trick) - Since I replaced the entire baffle, there is no need
to
> replace the hose that connects to the baffle 6. Replaced the fuel pump
> 
> Ran the car - Found that crud clogged up the new filter on the
bottom
> of the pump.
> 
> Cleaned it out, cyphoned the tank (so that there was only about
1/3 of
> an inch of gas left in there. Wiped it all out (removing silicon
stuff
> that someone had used to put back together the fuel sending unit, a 
> random screw, and general crud on the bottom of the tank.))
> 
> Raised the fuel pump 1/4th of an inch to guarantee that the filter
was
> not resting on the bottom of the baffle/tank
> 
> Filtered out the gas prior to putting it back into the tank. 
Ensured
> that all the crud (oil like goo with black lumps which used to be
the
> boot for the gas pump) which had gathered on the bottom of the 5 
> gallon buckets did not go back into the tank.
> 
> Put all back in, shone a flash light into the tank. Ensured nothing 
> was floating around. Put the fuel sending unit back on/in
> 
> Replaced an in-line fuel filter just above the pump (not sure why
one
> is there, but put a new on in anyhow)
> 
> Ran the car - worked like a champ... Ran her around roundabouts, on 
> the freeway, and it did great. Parked the car, happy as a clam.
Went
> to go meet my wife for dinner, and put new high octane gas into the 
> car. Filled the tank up about 100% of the way. The car all-but
died.
> Nothing I coudl do to keep the RPMs up. The car could be floored in 
> Neutral, and I could barely get above 2800. Running in a gear was a 
> joke. First gear running at 5mph, was about the fastest that I
could
> go.
> 
> Turned off the car, started her back up --> could rev her up, but
then
> same thing again when I had to turn a corner.
> 
> Got back to my garage, Left it running, ensured that there was
nothgin
> squirting out when it was in neutral running. Found nothing. But
what
> I did see was that the return line hole coming up from the boot,
had
> allowed fuel to leak in and around the pump. Cleaned it out. Let
the
> car cool (7pm).
> 
> Ran it again at 10pm (it was about 50 degrees outside) the car ran 
> great when cold, but the second it warmed up to standard operating 
> temperature, same thing. No power. No RPMs. Turn off the car, you
can
> get it (the rpms) up there for a few seconds to pick up speed, but 
> then that is it. I would almost venture to guess that it is
flooded,
> but since there is no carb, that would probably not be the case.
> 
> Starts up good every time. Shone a light back into the tank, and
the
> filter at the bottom of the pump seems to be clear and green.
> 
> Checked the connection at the bottom of the  inertia switch, it was 
> not really hot, and appeared to be in good shape.
> 
> I could see from the car running (looking into the tank), that fuel 
> was being sent back into the tank just could not see how much or
how
> fast, not that I know how much or fast it is supposed to be.
> 
> When this is happening, the pump is quiet, ie not screaming.
> 
> Help!
> 
> Sean
> 3372
> az-d
>









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:36:50 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Fuel issues

What I was indicating was that the injector cleaner caused the problem.

DarkStar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of seanhagan
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel issues


Threw in a bottle of STP injector cleaner already.

Sean


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand new
injectors I
> installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the
system.  It
> started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. the
running
> theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the system.
>
> Darkstar
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:55:19 -0500
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean for sale - Clayton, nc

Just an FYI, this ad was in the Raleigh, NC paper for a D that is for sale in Clayton, NC:

DELOREAN DMC-12 '81 Gull Wing doors s/s body, auto, $17,900. 919-550-9799

I am planning on going to take a look at it in a week or 2, if anyone is interested in getting iny more info on it, let me know and I can fill you in on my return.

Thanks!

Michael Babb
mcb (at) babbtechnology.com






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:21:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel issues

Get rid of the inline filter by the fuel pump. It may not be able to handle the high pressure of the fuel system safely.  Replace the filter by the left rear tire. Check the pattern on the fuel injectors and if necessary have them tested and cleaned. Make sure the frequency valve is buzzing. Remove the fuel and refill with fresh. You really shouldn't have replaced the any of the old stuff after cleaning out the tank. After removing the fuel inspect and clean the tank again.
There can be NO fuel leaks by the fuel pump. Very dangerous. Tighten the connections. You can also have a problem with the Control Pressure Regulator or the associated vacuum hoses. Check if you knocked any loose especially back by the distributer and CPR.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> OK, I've had a few issues with my fuel system. It all started at a 
> mall parking lot.
> 
> 1. Replaced the boot as the old had disentragated into the tank.
> 







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:47:31 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft nut

>
>
>In my manuals it says it is a 35mm nut and a 36mm or 1 7/16 nut, what 
>size is it really for the Crankshaft pulley nut?
>
36mm socket..

>Also i plan on removing the timing cover to replace the leaky gasket. 
> From the pictures it looks easy and like nothing will fall out but is 
>there any thing that might fall out or get out of adjustment?
>
Not really. A bit of advice: Once you've gone round and tightened up all the bolts (there're a lot of them!), go round and do them again, you'll be surprised how "loose" they all are again. I do use the fibre type gaskets from Volvo UK though, not the original Renault paper ones.

Martin







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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:33:04 -0500
From: Cal <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Yes, the same old exhaust question.....again

Not totally true anymore what with how old the cars are getting. As of January 1st, I got Antique plates for my 25 year old '81 car and am now exempt for having to do emissions testing. In some states (Maryland I know off the top of my head) people were able to get the special class of plates earlier because DMC was out of business.

-Cal
#3161

seanhagan wrote:

>If you ever want to register the car in a major metropolis, ie LA, 
>Sandiego, Phoenix, you need a cat. This was actually a deciding factor 
>when I purchased my car. If it had no cat, I did not buy it.
>
>my 2 cents worth.
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_...>
>wrote:
>  
>
>> So, what's it gonna be?? which system would you buy? DMCH's or the
>>    
>>
>UK
>  
>
>>set up?? Money no object neither are exchange rates but fit finish 
>>sound is....prefer cat/no cat etc... Im all ears guys, Im still 
>>undecided but want to purchase one real soon.
>>thanks
>>




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:21:30 -0000
From: "jakekamp" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: How does a company like Hemmings come up with such incorrect information?


John,

I wrote a nice note to Hemmings politely pointing out the mistakes in the article, and it appears they've removed those values!  I also corrected some of the other incorrect information in the article, but those weren't fixed on their site.

I also directed them to www.dmcnews.com for more info, so maybe we'll see a better article in the future.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John" <silversurfer_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> or is it just me?!!  
> I am planning on paying for a professional appraisal for insurance 
> purposes, and I hope they don't use this as a reference. Does anyone 
> have any suggestions if they come in "too low"
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/7vj5y
> 
> John
> #7009
>










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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:15:08 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: 911, engine running on 3 cylinders MORE INFO

Hello.

Does anybody know how this problem turned out?  Andy seems to have dropped off the earth.  It was an interesting problem, and I'm curious what caused it, no matter how simple it may have been.

Rick G.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "odell_andy" <odell_andy_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> thanks for your help guys. my car (or me) is Jinxed.
> i have the 3 groups of 2 distributor cap. it is really starting to 
> annoy me that you have to dismantle so much to get the distributor 
> off.
> i definately have no spark on 1,2,3  and great spark on 4,5,6.
> 
> i have now had 3 mechanics look at the car, they have all said its not 
> possible to have only 3 sparking unless it had 2 distributors.(i









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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:21:15 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel issues

Tank was just drained (5 hours prior) and cleaned out. Added new 
high octane fuel to it. 

Other than with gas treatments, how do I clean the injectors (i 
assume remove them, and soak them in something...)

Which filter are you talking about, the in-tank, the in-line or the 
one near the engine bay?

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "twinenginedmc12" 
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> I've clogged up fuel filters and carburetor orifices, by putting 
> cleaners in the tank, and one time, by experimenting with xylene 
as 
> an octane booster if I remember correctly.  Engines ran lean, same 
> symptoms.  It took a few times to learn my lesson. I don't use in-
> tank cleaners anymore, feeling that if there's gummy gunk in the 
> tank, it's probably best to leave it where it is, instead of 
letting 
> it migrate downstream into critical places.  
> 
> If it were my car, I would immediately drain the tank, and use 
that 
> fuel only in my lawnmower or dispose of it, then replace the 
filter 
> and clean the injectors.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Rick.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Threw in a bottle of STP injector cleaner already.
> > 
> > Sean
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_> 
wrote:
> > >
> > > I had a very similar problem. It turned out to be the brand 
new 
> > injectors I
> > > installed got gummed up from the crap that was already in the 
> > system.  It
> > > started when I put a bottle of FI Cleaner through the tank. 
the 
> > running
> > > theory is that it loosened up all the remaining dirt in the 
> system.
> > > 
> > > Darkstar
> > > 
> > 
> > [long quote trimmed by moderator]
> >
>









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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:24:07 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Obscure part needed

Greetings,
     I'm in need of a part that no one seems to have and I was
wondering if anyone had one laying around.  It is an engine wiring
harness.  If anyone has one for sale or trade, please let me know. 
I'm at my wits end with this one....:(

Thanks,
Matt Olans
VIN 16816
www.az-d.org  The Arizona DeLorean Club









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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:59:10 -0000
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stainless ripples

Hi, a friend of mine picked up a left front fender.  he says its never 
been in an accident but he noticed that there are small ripples on it.  
I'm wondering if this was from the stamping process.  None of the 
deloreans i've ever seen have ripples.  I have heard of early panels 
having ripples though.  

Erik









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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:51:07 -0000
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aw Crud!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_...> wrote:
 
> Touring cars are traditionally Saloons/Sedans. The DMC-12's styling
> and physical characteristics hardly fit that mold.

I must jump in here.  Have you never heard of "gran turismo"?  Those
are touring cars.  Here's the definition as printed in MotorTrend.

A textbook gran turismo isn't a sports car, but it can be damned
sporty.  It's not a race car, but it is usually fast.  It's certainly
not a luxury car, though it can be both comfortable and luxurious.  A
great GT combines all these traits by virtue of versatility, not
compromise.  It's a machine that begs you to pedal it 600 miles in a
day, will deposit you at your destination sans fatigue, and ultimately
support the satisfaction of an engaging drive.  It has adequate space
for at least one guest, temporary accomodations for two more , and
just enough room to carry matching luggage for a grownup weekend
getaway.  A gran turismo has style, but isn't necessaricly over the
top - nore panache than flash.  It is a hot-looking, comfortable,
fast, mature automobile that makes you want to drive from L.A. to
Boston for a bowl of chowder.

Not a Saloon - Not a Sedan.  

Now, with the exception of the "temporary accomodations", ie.
practically jump seats, I think the description above is pretty much
right on target for our DeLoreans.  I must admit that as a youngster
of only 72, I still find the car to be very comfortable on the road
and OFTEN do a 600 - 800 mile trip in a day and truly enjoy every
mile.  Fast, of course, is relative, but other than for 0-60 times,
our DeLoreans hold there own out on the open road when it comes to
fast touring.  

I couldn't help but notice that JZD is alledged to have referred to
the car as "a gentlemen's sprots car".  To me that sounds like his
market was for "well to do guys" who wanted something sporty to drive
to the golf club.  Remember his comment about the rear package shelf -
it must hold a bag of clubs.

Personally, this car is what you want it to be.  I use mine as a
touring car.  Perhaps that's why I was one of the founders of the
DeLorean Touring Society! This summer we will cover 5000 miles in 15
days.  That's touring!

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

PS  Recent auto magazine references to gran turismo cars have included
the Mercedes SLR McLaren - - saloon? - - I think not!







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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:25:00 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft nut

Thanks very much.

I plan on getting my valve covers and timing cover powdercoated.

Here is a few pictures for you.

That little piece of stud is all i had to drill out. I used my left 
hand drill bit and it came out like butter.

Mark


  ----------





On Feb 20, 2006, at 7:26 AM, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>
>
> Mark,
>
> The crankpulley nut is 36mm.  it doesn't fit super snug but the nut is 
>  so
> big that it works anyway.
>
> The timing cover, which I have not removed myself, also requires 
> removal of
> the valve covers - if you look at it, the covers form part of the seal 
> at the
> top.
>
> The front main seal is easy.  just slide the pulley off once you get  
> the nut
> off (it's not pressed on, just a couple of careful screwdrivers behind 
>  it to
> pry it off will work - also make sure the woodruf key is at the 12 
> o'clock
> position), then pull the old seal out with some pliers or small 
> screwdrivers
> (don't mar up the timing cover!).  To put the new double-lip Grady 
> seal in,
> just put some motor oil around the seal and tap it in carefully with a 
> rubber
> mallet.  There is nothing behind it to stop it so DON'T push it in  
> farther
> than flush with the timing cover.  I would recommend getting a  sleeve 
> installed
> on the crank pulley too which Grady carries as well.  I  had a machine 
> shop
> install it for me.
>
> Andy
>

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 01:32:00 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Delorean and the F-14

Wow, I'm impressed - not even an angle drive, blower motor, washer 
bottle pump, adjusting the handbrake, pair of door struts (!) ?

Just a few of the "usual" things for a mileage like that!

Martin
#1458 - 14,000 trouble-free (almost) miles in 4 years and thought -I- 
was doing well!
#4426

Jack Singer wrote:

>Repair work versus driving.
>
>I spent $15,000 to purchase and approximately 20 hours fixing up my last
>D of which most of the work was cosmetic and not required.
>
>I drove it 85,000 miles and only had to change the oil and put on a set
>of tires.
>
>That works out to 1 hour for every 4,250 miles of driving.
>
>Then sold I it for $15,500.
>
>Now I have a new one that I know will do as well.
>
>
>Jack.
>20069, 10002
>







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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 01:11:37 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless ripples

If they are across the top, just in line with each of the attaching 
screws, it means that some ham-fisted body man installed the shims 
wrong and/or tightened the screws too tight. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi, a friend of mine picked up a left front fender.  he says its 
never 
> been in an accident but he noticed that there are small ripples on 
it.  
> I'm wondering if this was from the stamping process.  None of the 
> deloreans i've ever seen have ripples.  I have heard of early panels 
> having ripples though.  
> 
> Erik
>









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________________________________________________________________________


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