From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:30 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3136

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

2. Re: Help! Truck cable broken!
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. celebration exotic cars show
From: "geek321y" <geek321y_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Help! Is this normal?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Help! Truck cable broken!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. To ALL Vendors and DMC Owners/Enthusiasts... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Help! Truck cable broken!
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

9. Re: HOT or COLD START PROBLEM?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. pleated hood for sale W/ PICS
From: "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. RE: Re: pleated hood for sale
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D
From: "silverdelorean2002" <jon_at_dml_jonbrodi.com>

15. Re: Help! Truck cable broken!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: "Robert" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

17. Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Fuel pressure question
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. Pittsbugh Spring Tech Session[DCO] - Western PA - RSVP
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Re: Fuel pressure question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

23. Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:36:51 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

Pop the headliner off of the drivers door, then first thing monday morning call Warren at DMCH and give him the key code thats under the  
headliner. Assuming that the car hasn't been re-keyed they should be   
able to cut a new key from the code. They might even have a set of factory original precut keys with the metal key-code tag still attached like they did for my car.
Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985

On Feb 25, 2006, at 9:12 PM, valleyrat12 wrote:

> Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is 
> no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it 
> came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early 
> vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what 
> I get for not doing ALL of my homework...
>
> Nathan
> 2277
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 10:19:31 EST
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!

I can not tell you how to get it open but I can give you some  great advice.  
When you get it open and the new cable on, tie a thin piece  of stainless steel wire into the hole on the latch and run the other end over to  the little knob that is used for a hood spacer. In the future if you ever have a  broken cable again  just pull the wire real hard and your trunk is open.  This is a great back up plan.
 
Andy b 3513


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 06:37:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

Hi,I bought my first D about 8 yrs. ago. I bought it without a key in a divorce settlement and had it flat bedded home. I took the storage lock off the inside lockable compartment to a locksmith and he made a key that worked fine. It cost me $12. at the time and that included a key. The car # was in the 6000's Hope this helps. bob

valleyrat12 <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:  Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what I get for not doing ALL of my homework...

Nathan
2277





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 06:35:26 -0000
From: "geek321y" <geek321y_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: celebration exotic cars show

Delorean Owners
looking for owners to attend the upcoming celebration car show in april Deloreans at this show are always a favored please let me know what cars a coming 

www.celebrationexoticcars.com

Kennethcosta_at_dml_mac.com









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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 09:26:45 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Is this normal?

My guess is that during warmup (at least) the car is over-rich. Especially since you say adjusting it leaner lessened the smoke. Did the smell also get at least a little better? The thing to do here is find out if the car is over-rich only during warmup, or all the time. If it is all the time, then further adjustment of the CO adjustment is what is called for. If it is only during warmup, adjusting the CO is  probably not the answer since you don't want the car to run lean all the time just to solve an over-rich condition that exists only during warm-up.

Some diagnosis is necessary. Adjusting the CO as per the manual is the first step. Then if the problem perists, see if you can have a shop use an exhaust analyzer so that you know what is happening during warm-up. If the car is too rich only during warm-up, consider such things as the warmup regulator and possibly the cold start system, among other things.

-Joe Kuchan


>From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Help! Is this normal?
>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 01:54:46 -0000
>
>Joe,
>I would have to say the smoke is gray. Looks like cigarette smoke. I 
>adjusted the CO with the 3mm hex wrench and it did improve it. I turned 
>left to lean about 1/4 of a turn and the smoke lessened from coming out 
>4ft from the muffler to about a foot(this make sense?) perhaps I have 
>to get back in there and turn a little more? Thanks for the reply!
>
>-Danny
>4160
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > What color smoke?
> >
> > Pick one:
> >
> > 1. white
> > 2. black
> > 3. blue
> > 4. gray
> > 4: chartreuse (just kidding)
> >
> > From the smell you're describing I'm guessing you are going to say
>black.
> >
> > -Joe Kuchan
> >
> >
> > >From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_...>
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [DML] Help! Is this normal?
> > >Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 23:12:12 -0000
> > >
> > >Hello all,
> > >
> > >Well here is a little problem (or not?) I have discovered. I notice 
> > >when I first start up, ALOT of smoke with a very strong exhaust 
> > >smell comes from the mufflers. Its enough where you don't want be 
> > >anywhere near the car. This will last for about 10 minutes and then 
> > >it will settle out and lessen greatly. I also notice a "pssssssst" 
> > >sound coming from the engine when I open the throttle. I assume 
> > >this sound is just air being let into the intake? Is this condition 
> > >normal or am I running too rich? I've tried to adjust the CO plug 
> > >but it doesn't seem to help. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
> > >
> > >-Danny




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:29:30 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!

I have been told that using a new hacksaw blade and cutting the latching loop on the hood is a way to get in. You have to protect the windshield and have patience (sounds like you have that for sure). You will probably have to cut both front and back parts of the loop. It may be worth a try. The seal will probably be damaged too - but an easy fix.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> My trunk cable is broken & I can't get in. I've tried going up from 
> above the master cylinder - the carpet & it's hard backing is in
the
> way and can't be moved enough for access. I've tried disassembling
the
> cable and pulling on the inner sheath as specified in a procedure 
> found on dmcnews.com; what was left of the cable just came off in
my
> hand.
> 
> My only chance now is to fish a rod or something in from the
passenger
> side but I've been working for 5 hours at that with no progress 
> whatsoever. My whole body aches and I'm frustrated to no end. Any 
> advice would be appreciated.
> 
> If someone can email me a close-up picture of the latch mechanism, 
> that would help a lot.
> 
> Thank you....
> 
> -Ryan
>










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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 10:27:11 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: To ALL Vendors and DMC Owners/Enthusiasts... Spring Social is coming! Need help!!!

The Mid-Atlantic Club is once again holding its Annual Spring Social on April 28th-30th in Flemington, NJ. There are going to be tech inspections, torsion bar adjustments, raffle prizes, food and fun. This event is open to all DMA (DeLorean Mid-Atlantic) members. You can become a member by going to HYPERLINK "http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/"www.DeLoreanMidAtlantic.com
and registering, or by simply showing up to the event and registering that day. 
 
Before going on, I’d like to give a huge THANK YOU to all of the members and vendors out there that contributed such awesome DeLorean related items to our club for the raffle last year. Without their help, we never could’ve had such a successful event. So once again, we would like to extend an open invitation to any person(s) or vendor who would like to contribute DeLorean related prizes to this event. Due to early sparked interest from club members, we are expecting to smash last year’s record number of 38 cars and over 95 attendees! This event has become one of the largest DeLorean gatherings in the world, and is quite possibly the LARGEST annual DeLorean gathering in the world. So if any person or vendor has anything DeLorean related they'd like to donate, please e-mail me privately at Events(at)DeLoreanMidAtlantic.com. This is a great way to promote your products and business. Of course, all donators will receive full credit for their donation, unless they wish to remain anonymous. The officers, members, and attendees of the event will also deeply appreciate it. Thanks, and hope to see you there!!!
 
---Evil Dan
DMA Activities Director

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.0/269 - Release Date: 2/24/2006
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 12:26:37 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!

Where are you located, maybe another DeLorean owner nearby can help or at 
least suggest a different approach.

Dave Sontos
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: [DML] Help! Truck cable broken!


> My trunk cable is broken & I can't get in. I've tried going up from
> above the master cylinder - the carpet & it's hard backing is in the
> way and can't be moved enough for access. I've tried disassembling the
> cable and pulling on the inner sheath as specified in a procedure
> found on dmcnews.com; what was left of the cable just came off in my
> hand.






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 17:19:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: HOT or COLD START PROBLEM?

My suggestion to you would be to go over the ignition system. I would
clean and regap the spark plugs (or change them if they are old)
replace the ignition wires, cap and rotor if they are old, and (I
think this is where the real problem is) test out and make sure the
ignition bypass relay is working. It is there to give you full voltage
when starting by bypassing some of the ballast resistor. If it doesn't
work you are starting the car at a reduced voltage. While cranking the
battery voltage is lowered. That will lower the ignition (secondary)
voltage proportionaltly. The bypass is used to give you a hot spark in
spite of that. The other problem may be a bad connection or a failing
pick-up coil in the distributer. A further possability is a weak
ignition coil. I would also look over the vacuum circuit to the
Control Pressure Regulator. You might have a vacuum leak or maybe
something is not connected correctly. If you can get a hold of another
one to swap with I would see if that makes any difference. A dirty
electrical connection somewhere can be part of this. I agree that it
may be the culmination of several little things (problems like this
usually are on a 25 year old car). At least you know you don't have to
go hunting in the fuel system!  To get an internal combustion engine
started you need 3 things to work. You need the mechanical system (the
pistons, valves, etc to work and be timed) the fuel system, and the
electrical system. We can rule out a problem with the motor, the fuel
system, so that leaves us with the electrical system. Do you get a
nice thick blue spark when cranking warm?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Well, as I've reported before, I have confirmed the existence of a  
> "warm start problem" that has nothing to do with rest pressure and is  
> definitely distinct from the classic "hot start" problem. My symptoms  
> were very similar to Daniel's:  starts fine when cold and when hot,  
> but if you let it sit for about an hour, it is difficult to start.   
> Since I have a full-time fuel pressure sensor, it is very easy to  
> check rest pressure, so I know for sure that this wasn't the problem.  
> Swapping the plugs does permit an easy start, but this doesn't prove  
> a rest-pressure problem, just that extra enrichment helps (after all,  
> 







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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 17:26:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

If you remove the cylinder a locksmith can "read" the code and cut a
key to fit. Use the cylinder from the passenger door. It is usually
much less worn. Another option would be to change the car over to the
1 key (later) system. That involves removing the cylinder in the
steering column. On some of the early cars DMCH can look up the code
from the vin #. I would call DMCH and speak to James Espey before
tearing the car apart and see what they can offer. Try calling the
person you bought the car from. They may be nice and give you the key
(if they can find it). That is the cheapest option. You should be able
to find the code above the headliner of the driver's door.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is 
> no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it 
> came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early 
> vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what 
> I get for not doing ALL of my homework...
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 18:14:57 -0000
From: "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: pleated hood for sale W/ PICS

Hey, to everyone that was interested here is some pictures of the hood.

http://photobucket.com/albums/f172/realrealgone/

make offer







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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 18:22:09 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

There's a couple of ways to remedy this...

1 - See if the keycode is written under either one of the door
headliners and then give me a call with that code. We have some
pre-cut keys organized by this code. If there's no code written or
it's illegible, I may have it in our very incomplete list of VINs and
keycodes. Finally, it *is* possible that the locks were changed by a
PO, and then none of the above will work.

2 - You *may* find a locksmith that is willing to attempt to try to
make a key for the locks. Do NOT let him remove the locks from the
doors. The clip that holds the lock in place is fragile, and generally
irreplaceable.

3 - Upgrade to the later style door locks. For about $60, if you can
live with separate keys for the door and ignitions, we can send you a
set of new later style door locks (part number 110192). If you want
them keyed to match your ignition, then it's about $110 or so (part
number 110192A). Either set will take a couple hours to install.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is 
> no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it 
> came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early 
> vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what 
> I get for not doing ALL of my homework...
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>









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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 11:59:49 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: pleated hood for sale

Thanks, Rich.  I'm in contact with the seller.  Matt Carpenter   AZ-D


>From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: pleated hood for sale
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 23:38:58 -0000
>
>Where are you located?  This would help to figure out shipping.
>Knowing where you are located may also encourage local pickup.
>
>I know Matt Carpenter (AZ) is looking to purchase one, since he
>has a "Parts Wanted" ad for one on the DMC News website.
>
>Matt's contact info is listed in his recent Parts Wanted ad.
>(I'm not sure if Matt checks the DML on a regular basis)
>
>Later,
>Rich W.
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "realrealgone" <realrealgone_at_dml_...>
>wrote:
> >
> > i picked up a VERY nice pleated hood locally and i have no use for
>it
> > so before i throw it on ebay id be willing to sell it to someone on
> > the DML. i will get pics within the week but i just wanted to see if
> > anyone was interested.
> >
> > its a very good stamping of the hood as well, no factory defects at
> > all. very shiney and clean.
> >
> > email me if interested.




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 20:06:20 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002" <jon_at_dml_jonbrodi.com>
Subject: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D

Anyone here know what wing this is on the yellow D. I am trying to get
onoe and its hard to find one that looks good on this car. This one
seems the best. Here is a pic.

http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/images/gallery_images_dt/DMCdt_Y_800.jpg










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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 17:49:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!

I have seen that work. The other possability is that you may still be
able to get a hold of the inner cable. You might have to cut the outer
cable back to get a grip on it but it is still easier than chopping up
the latch. Get a vise-grip and go hunting under the dash. Maybe try
pulling on the outer and inner cable while someone tries lifting the
hood. You have to use a broomstick to move the carpet and backing out
of the way if you are going to try that trick from underneath. It
won't work if there is anything in the trunk. That back-up emergency
cable starts to look like a good idea!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I have been told that using a new hacksaw blade and cutting the 
> latching loop on the hood is a way to get in. You have to protect 









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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 14:48:04 -0600
From: "Robert" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

I gave a local locksmith the key code located on the door.  He cut two keys 
for me using Volvo key blanks.  Cost me about twenty bucks.

#2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?


> Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is
> no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it
> came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early
> vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what
> I get for not doing ALL of my homework...
>
> Nathan
> 2277





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 21:18:17 -0000
From: "Dan" <djdanwilson_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

Before you pop the headliner off, call DMCH and see if they have the
key code for your VIN on file. If they do, you will not have to remove
your headliner to get it.

Dan W.
VIN 16192
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Pop the headliner off of the drivers door, then first thing monday  
> morning call Warren at DMCH and give him the key code thats under the  
> headliner. Assuming that the car hasn't been re-keyed they should be   
> able to cut a new key from the code. They might even have a set of  
> factory original precut keys with the metal key-code tag still  
> attached like they did for my car.
> Phil Priestley
> 
> Vin 2105
> IN FLUX
> 
> http://alessandros120.com/
> (503)370-9951
> 1(866)225-7985
> 
> On Feb 25, 2006, at 9:12 PM, valleyrat12 wrote:
> 
> > Does anyone know if it is possible to have a door key cut if there is
> > no original copy? When I bought my car I did not think to ask if it
> > came with two keys and found out the hard way that my relatively early
> > vin DOES have a separate door key. The PO lost the key. :( That's what
> > I get for not doing ALL of my homework...
> >
> > Nathan
> > 2277









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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 22:01:05 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Fuel pressure question

Hello all,

I have had a hot start problem for a little while now. The car 
starts okay when cold, although sometimes it takes 4 or 5 seconds, 
or even cranking it a second time. If it's been sitting for anywhere 
from around 20 minutes to an hour and a half after running, I 
usually have to crank it a few times, wait a minute or two, and 
crank it about 5 more times for it to start. I got my hands on a 
pressure tester today, although I'm not sure if I used it correctly. 
The workshop manual said when using a pressure tester it would be 
necessary to jump the rpm relay and run the fuel pump without the 
motor running. The instructions for the tester said to do it with 
the engine running, so I connected the top port of the fuel 
distributor and the corresponding hole in the CPR, and did it with 
the engine running. If that's wrong someone let me know the right 
way please. Anyway, my results were primary pressure 4.8 bar (book 
says 4.9-5.5). Control pressure went from about 2.1 bar to 3.4 bar 
within about 15 seconds, and stayed at 3.4 bar thereafter. Checking 
rest pressure, upon shutting down the engine the pressure dropped 
immediately to 3 bar, then hit 2.7 bar after 30 seconds, 2.5 bar 
after 1 minute, 2.2 bar in 1 minute 40 seconds, and then once it hit 
2.2 bar it dropped drastically to 0 within 10 seconds. I believe the 
book said it should be a minimum of 1.7 bar after 10 minutes. 
However even with the gauge reading 0 bar it still starts 
immediately within about 10 minutes of having run (regardless of 
engine ambient temperature). Did I do the test incorrectly? And if 
not, does a primary pressure of 4.8 bar mean my fuel pump is not 
performing like it should? 

About the car: I've had the car for 2 years, the fuel pump is the 
same one that was in it when I bought the car, but is not the 
original. I recently replaced the filter on the fuel pump and the 
fuel filter. The fuel accumulator is the same one that was on the 
car when I bought it, I think the PO had said it had been recently 
replaced but I can't tell by looking at it if that is true or if it 
is still the original. I recently replaced the o-rings on the 
primary pressure valve plunger thing in the fuel distributor.

Where should I go from here? Any methods of better pinpointing where 
the rest pressure loss is coming from (I would guess between the 
accumulator or the check valve at the pump). Thanks for any and all 
help,

Dave
#5968








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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 16:20:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pittsbugh Spring Tech Session[DCO] - Western PA - RSVP

Greetings,
   
  The Pittsburgh [DCO] Spring Tech Session will be held on Saturday May 13, 2006 starting at 9:00 AM. This is an excellent to opportunity to socialize with other D owners and get any needed work done on your car before DCS in June.
   
  We're easy to find just off the route 60 Hopewell exit about 7 min. from the Pittsburgh Airport. We hope to see all the great people we've met at the previous tech sessions and hopefully a few new faces too! If your car is not ready to drive then just come and visit, we'd love to see you! If you need directions just let us know.
   
  We'll start off at 9a.m. (Coffee and pastries to open your eyes :-). Snacks along with beverages (including beer) during the day. Around 1:00 PM we'll have a cookout for lunch and a dinner cookout around 5:30 PM.  Please e-mail us off-list to confirm your attendance, and perhaps any work you'd like some help with, and let us know if you need directions. Significant others are welcome, and encouraged.
 
If you are planning on attending and can bring any John Delorean Memorabilia or something that JZD owned please let us know as this tech session may featured on a local (KDKA)  TV show depending on the attendance
  
If anyone would like to provide the graphics/Design for the spring T-shirts please let us know. The graphic must be hi-res for printing and in single-color like the previous t-shirts. 
  
Also, If there was a particular food that you enjoyed at a previous tech session or an idea for a new dish please let us know and we will try to include it on the menu this tech session or the upcoming one in August.
  
Please let us know if you plan to attend as early as possible.
  
Hope to see you there!
   
  Best regards,
   
  Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872) 
   

		
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 02:11:56 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

If you go this route, note that the early style door keys are 
asymetrical and only work one way up - without one to copy, a locksmith 
probably wouldn't work this out.

I believe the profiles are the same rather than mirrored, as most other 
keys are.

Martin

James Espey wrote:

>2 - You *may* find a locksmith that is willing to attempt to try to
>make a key for the locks. Do NOT let him remove the locks from the
>doors. The clip that holds the lock in place is fragile, and generally
>irreplaceable.
>  
>






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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 17:25:51 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Help! Truck cable broken!

On 2/26/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> I have seen that work. The other possability is that you may still be
> able to get a hold of the inner cable. You might have to cut the outer
> cable back to get a grip on it but it is still easier than chopping up
> the latch. Get a vise-grip and go hunting under the dash. Maybe try
> pulling on the outer and inner cable while someone tries lifting the
> hood.

No deal on that one. I tried it and quite frankly don't know what the
author of that procedure was smoking. The cable is made up of four
parts,

1. Outer sheath.
2. Wrapped metal.
3. Soft plastic material ("inner cable?").
4. The actual cable.

I don't see how pulling on the plastic inner stuff will help at all.
That terminates on the block just before the release mechanism in the
trunk; yanking it won't do anything to release the mechanism. Yanking
the outer cable won't do a darn thing, either; it's mount does not
actuate the release. Only the actual cable - the part that breaks -
connects to the release mech. Once it's broken, you're screwed.

Also, getting the metal unwrapped enough to expose the inner material
was extremely difficult and cut my hands up. No fun. :(

I'm quite thankful I had the electric release installed and was able
to get in by fishing those wires out. I've routed those into the car
and hooked them up now. I also installed an emergency cable that will
get me in if the electric release AND the replacement cable fail.
Although, considering I plan to use the electric release from now on,
I doubt the replacement cable will ever fail since it won't see any
use.

> You have to use a broomstick to move the carpet and backing out
> of the way if you are going to try that trick from underneath. It
> won't work if there is anything in the trunk.

I don't see that working unless my backing is different from everyone
else's. Mine is a wooden type material, quite stiff, and it's big
enough that it can't be moved out of the way while still in the trunk.
I suppose you could LIFT it with a broomstick - that might get it high
enough to get at the lever - but it can't be moved much in any other
direction.

Now, going up through the dash and actuating the release through the
hole where the cable passes - that might work. You'd need a metal tool
of some sort, but that hole is fairly good sized (mine is at least
3/4") and only a couple of inches away from the release mechanism.

-Ryan


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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 02:10:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure question

Like many problems on a 25 year old car, this can be the culmination
of many small things. How old are the spark plugs and what are they
gapped at? Are you getting a good pattern out of the fuel injectors?
Have you ever cleaned out the fuel tank? Replaced the fuel or air
filters? If the accumulator is origional it should be replaced just
because it IS 25 years old. Is there anything in the hot start relay
plug? There shouldn't be. The pressures are to be checked with the
motor NOT running, just the fuel pump (refer to D:02:02). The Primary
Pressure is a touch low but should not be a problem. The Control
Pressure sounds OK if the temperature of the Control Pressure
Regulator is around 104 F or higher (as per Fig 17 on D:02:01. The
Rest Pressure is NG. Your choices are the accumulator, the fuel pump
check valve, and the Primary Pressure Regulator (or a leak which is
VERY dangerous). I am guessing but the Primary Pressure and the
Control Pressure are probably alright if you read them with the motor
off and the fuel pump running. Look at Fig 4 D:01:06. It shows the
Primary Pressure circuit. When you shut the motor down it is where the
Rest Pressure is held and maintained by the accumulator. It can be
lost through:
the fuel pump check valve
the accumulator
the Primary Pressure regulator
Any leakage in the plumbing and connections between (also leaky
injectors, cold start valve, sticky plunger). 
Read D:01:14



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> I have had a hot start problem for a little while now. The car 
> starts okay when cold, although sometimes it takes 4 or 5 seconds, 
> or even cranking it a second time. If it's been sitting for anywhere 
> from around 20 minutes to an hour and a half after running, I 
> usually have to crank it a few times, wait a minute or two, and 
> crank it about 5 more times for it to start. I got my hands on a 
> pressure tester today, although I'm not sure if I used it correctly. 
>







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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 19:12:43 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D

I like it too but it is a little to high, a lower profile one i would 
like more.

Mark


On Feb 26, 2006, at 2:06 PM, silverdelorean2002 wrote:

> Anyone here know what wing this is on the yellow D. I am trying to get
> onoe and its hard to find one that looks good on this car. This one
> seems the best. Here is a pic.
>
> http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/images/gallery_images_dt/DMCdt_Y_800.jpg





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