From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 7:08 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3139

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. wanted: workshop manual in the uk
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

2. RE: This smacks of scam..
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>

3. Rooms at the Hampton (NOT FULL)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: This smacks of scam..
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: This smacks of scam..
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>

6. Re: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. advice on stubborn bolt
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>

9. Re: delorean car show
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: This smacks of scam..
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: advice on stubborn bolt
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

13. Re: wanted: workshop manual in the uk
From: Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

14. Re: Re: advice on stubborn bolt
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>

15. RE: Re: advice on stubborn bolt
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Re: advice on stubborn bolt
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

17. RE: advice on stubborn bolt
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Scam auctions
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

19. Re: Rooms at the Hampton (NOT FULL)
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: advice on stubborn bolt
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

21. Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. DeLorean coke poster... A fraud?
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Re: Binnicle and dash
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 12:09:00 +0000
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: wanted: workshop manual in the uk

hi,

does anyone have a DMC workshop manual  that they would be willing to sell to me?

i tried emailing delorean.com to ask for shipping costs but they just havent responded. i also need a complete blower speed switch in the unlikely event someone has a spare one.

i'm happy to pay decent money for either. i am in the UK but i dont mind buying from abroad.

thanks,
james
5380

	
	
		
___________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 09:21:47 -0600
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: This smacks of scam..

What a joke.  I think I saw those same photos of one that was for sale in
Florida a few months ago.  Also I have never seen Tula, OK look so green,
and with water like that.  Plus all the other cars he has for sale just
donít jive either.  

Emory Lehman


> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of nbrommer2k
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 4:18 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] This smacks of scam..
> 
> Check out this ebay auction:
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeLorean-BACK2FUTURE-1981-DELOREAN-DMC-
> 12-BUY-IT-NOW-7-
> 000_W0QQitemZ4617736233QQcategoryZ31830QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVie
> wItem>
> 
> Gosh, $7k sure is a bargain, except there is no "buy it now". And it's
> odd, he lists it as an auto and photos show a 5-speed. Here's a fun
> game...find the inconsistencies in the auction.
> 
> If you STILL don't think it's a scam, look at his other auctions.
> Unbelievable.
> 
> Nick
> formerly VIN #3092, now in Austria with Gerhard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.1/271 - Release Date: 2/28/2006
> 

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.1/271 - Release Date: 2/28/2006
 





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 07:55:02 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Rooms at the Hampton (NOT FULL)

The following post was on the DML and I need to correct it.
 
<<<I waited too long and missed out on the rooms at Pheasant run,  and 
than I waited too long again and Hampton Inn has filled up. For all  
you guys who, like me, may have missed these two boats, there is  hope>>>
 
 
I do not know which Hampton inn was called but There are rooms available 
You need to tell them you are with the car show because the CAR SHOW has  the 
rooms reserved.  This is a common problem and creates self induced  panic as 
this post states.
 
So I am telling you all.  There are Still rooms at the Hampton in 
go to _www.hamptoninnelgin.com_ (http://www.hamptoninnelgin.com) 
 
Or call 847-931-1940
 
There were about 35 more rooms left when I called. 
 
Which is surprising because there is a waiting list at Pheasant run of 22  
names and I have 16 additional names and have told them to call the  Hampton.  
So if you take 38 from 50 I should only have 12 left. 
 
If you have problems on anything relating to the Show Please contact  me.  
Other members of the DML will not have the answers and it will add to  the 
confusion.  Unless I POST   that we are out of rooms there  will be rooms.
 
Ken
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 15:28:27 -0000
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: This smacks of scam..

The easiest way to post a link to an ebay auction is to use the 
auction number.
For this auction just open up the ebay home page and in "search" put 
the auction number. In this case it's  4617736233.

Chris
06301




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Check out this ebay auction:
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeLorean-BACK2FUTURE-1981-DELOREAN-
DMC-
> 12-BUY-IT-NOW-7-
> 
000_W0QQitemZ4617736233QQcategoryZ31830QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZV
ie
> wItem>
> 
> Gosh, $7k sure is a bargain, except there is no "buy it now". And 
it's 
> odd, he lists it as an auto and photos show a 5-speed. Here's a 
fun 
> game...find the inconsistencies in the auction.
> 
> If you STILL don't think it's a scam, look at his other auctions. 
> Unbelievable.
> 
> Nick
> formerly VIN #3092, now in Austria with Gerhard!
>








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 10:43:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Parts Pit Mike <thepartspit_at_dml_rogers.com>
Subject: Re: This smacks of scam..

Yes I love that Hummer H2 with a Buy It Now of $7,000.00
   
  Must be a billionaire philantropist giving his collection away.  As if.
   
   
  Parts Pit Mike
  17076


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 17:06:01 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Missing door key, possible to cut new one without copy?

Mine's like that but I'm sure it's not meant to be! Certainly there's no 
rhyme or reason to them other then that they're crap locks :o) Most only 
work one way up.

Only my passenger barrel works. Rather than change the locks for later 
style ones, which I'm sure I'll get around to one day, I just fitted 
remote locking.

(sorry for the delayed reply)

Martin
#1458 2-key
#4426 1-key

Todd Nelson wrote:

>Martin,
>
>I noticed that with my early keys too, they are cut different on either 
>side.  However, my keys work no matter how you put them in.  I've never been 
>able to figure it out, any thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>Todd Nelson
>1561, Vermont
>http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
>  
>







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 18:16:32 -0000
From: "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D

 Ron,

I guess it was a while back that we had this discussion, I think how 
went was something like this. " when you look at the lines of the 
wing tip and the louvre. The wing tip visual line would almost be 
parallel and match the lines of the the louvre if the wing was 
turned around." You agreed. That's why I thought it was installed 
backwards.

Sorry

Dennis 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gullwingmag" <gullwing-
magazine_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_5180" <dmc_5180_at_dml_> wrote:
> 
> > BTW: In the photo you referenced the Spoiler is actually 
Installed 
> > backwards. If you look at the end tip of the wing. The narrow 
pointed 
> > corner faces forward. It was designed to face rearward trailing. 
Ron 
> > knows this but decided to leave it that way anyway. Also If 
height is 
> > an issue you can always cut the legs down.
> 
> Actually, thats not true.  If you look at current aftermarket 
versions 
> of this wing, which is commonly called a "touring" wing, you will 
see 
> that the leading edge always faces forward.  Even new cars which 
have 
> updated versions of this wing have the edge facing forward.  As I 
> recall, my wing is even marked which way it should face.
> 
> Ron
>









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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 17:08:05 -0000
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: advice on stubborn bolt

hey everyone,

i've been working on a major tune-up on my D for the past few weeks.  
one of the short bolts that attach the y water pipe to the engine block 
snapped off flush.  i tried drilling into it and using a screw 
extractor, which i thought was working until the screw extractor 
snapped off flush as well. i really have a problem now as the local 
machine shop said they could only work on it if i take my engine out 
and deliver it to them as they don't have anywhere to work on the whole 
car in their shop.  also, they said i'm going to have a hell of a time 
removing the broken screw extractor. help!

bill
6976







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 18:44:55 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: delorean car show

I live in Oak Lawn, IL. which is about a 45 minute drive to Phesant Run.  I plan on 
driving there and saving on the hotel.  If anyone else out there is out of luck on a 
hotel or just wants to save some cash, you are more than welcome to stay with me 
and convoy to the show.  It may not be the Hilton here, but I do got a fold out couch 
and some beer!  :)

Corey
2423
coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I waited too long and missed out on the rooms at Pheasant run, and 
> than I waited too long again and Hampton Inn has filled up. For all 
> you guys who, like me, may have missed these two boats, there is hope. 
> I was able to book a room at the Holiday Inn at Elgin, Ill. The room 
> was $99 a night but I am sure most of us have AAA, or AARP or some 
> other discount. Just tell them , they do discount for AARP 
> this I know for a fact. I have no idea how good or bad this is but 
> hey, it is close to the show and just how bad can a Holiday Inn be? I 
> would say to any one planning on going to Chicago to book a room asap 
> I get the feeling they are going to be in short supply.
> 
> Andy Blackmon 03513
>







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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 18:53:39 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: This smacks of scam..

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
It is a scam.  That's why nothing adds up.

Let's move on...

Mike G  Moderator of the week
*****


This does sound "too good to be true."  But even though in the quick reference there 
is no VIN and it says automatic, in his description it clearly says 5-speed and lists the 
VIN and mileage.  I don't know why there is no actual buy it now icon, but it says that 
it is $7000.  But, why so low?  The car looks sharp.  Anyone know anything about this 
car?

Corey
2423
coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com
corey.ooms_at_dml_us.army.mil

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Check out this ebay auction:
> 
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeLorean-BACK2FUTURE-1981-DELOREAN-
DMC-
> 12-BUY-IT-NOW-7-
> 
000_W0QQitemZ4617736233QQcategoryZ31830QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQc
mdZVie
> wItem>
> 
> Gosh, $7k sure is a bargain, except there is no "buy it now". And it's 
> odd, he lists it as an auto and photos show a 5-speed. Here's a fun 
> game...find the inconsistencies in the auction.
> 
> If you STILL don't think it's a scam, look at his other auctions. 
> Unbelievable.
> 
> Nick
> formerly VIN #3092, now in Austria with Gerhard!
>








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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 11:18:29 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D

Ron:

Where'd you get the side scoops? Some of us on the DMCForum were
wondering this the other day...

-Ryan

On 2/27/06, gullwingmag <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I guess I should speak up since this is my car.  That wing was on the
> car when I got it but I can tell you it is just a typical universal
> style wing that you can find anywhere on the net.  What I changed about
> it was the height of the uprights... the ones you see were custom made
> per my specs.  Given the side scoops on my car, a standard height wing
> almost sat on the scoops so we had to raise it.  At first, I was
> sceptical about the height but it grew on me real quick.  Hope this
> helps.
>
[moderator snip]

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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 19:47:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: advice on stubborn bolt

Breaking off a drill, tap, or extractor is probably the worst thing
you can do. With that being said there is still hope. Sometimes you
can get lucky with a small hammer and centerpunch. Try working the
extractor back and forth. If you can move it even a little then there
is a good chance you can get it out. If it won't move at all then you
have to try drilling it out. It is possible (with a lot of luck and
experience) to drill it with a carbide bit like as used to drill
concrete). You have to go a little at a time and constanly redress the
tip. You can also buy a titanium drill bit, again very difficult to do
and stay centered but will hold an edge longer but you need a special
grinding wheel to redress it. Another option is to lay a washer over
the mess and try to weld a nut to the broken bolt. Then, if all goes
well, you just unscrew the whole mess right out! A lot depends on the
skill of the person and his personal experience with each method. If
you are a novice machinest maybe the thing to do is to have the car
towed to the shop. Try to talk them into an "appointment" so it won't
stay in their shop in their way. Do not be tempted to skip it and hope
it won't leak much without the bolt. It will.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> hey everyone,
> 
> i've been working on a major tune-up on my D for the past few weeks.  
> one of the short bolts that attach the y water pipe to the engine block 
> snapped off flush.  i tried drilling into it and using a screw 
> extractor, which i thought was working until the screw extractor 
> snapped off flush as well. i really have a problem now as the local 
> machine shop said they could only work on it if i take my engine out 
> and deliver it to them as they don't have anywhere to work on the whole 
> car in their shop.  also, they said i'm going to have a hell of a time 
> removing the broken screw extractor. help!
> 
> bill
> 6976
>








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 19:59:39 +0000
From: Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: wanted: workshop manual in the uk

Hi James

I live in Northern Ireland and postage to here by Fedex is usualy  
about $40 or $50 depending on the size of the package you are  
getting, I would buy a few bits and pieces to make it worth your  
while as you will pay tax on the parts you get.

I would also buy the fan speed switch from them as at-least it will  
be brand new and you can return it if it breaks.

Have you tried www.delorean.co.uk??  Martin will get you any part you  
need if you ask him.

Hope this was some help.

Alistair
VIN:- PILOT 25
Belfast.




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 15:58:13 -0500
From: "L. Sandel" <ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: advice on stubborn bolt

I had the exact same problem last summer - broke both of the rearmost bolts 
on that same part.  Broken an extractor off in one of the bolts, too.  Used 
a hammer and ice pick to get the extractor out.

I soaked them for weeks, literally.  I sprayed them with P'Blaster twice a 
day for 2 weeks.  Went through a few sets of extractors.  I torched them. 
Beat on them.  Carved slots in them and tried to remove them with a 
screwdriver.  Kicked, screamed, prayed, cursed, bribed, etc.  They were not, 
under any circumstances, ever going to come back out intact.  I knew I was 
in trouble when I first removed the intake, as there was a lake in the 
engine valley & the remnants of what appeared to be, at one time, a soft, 
furry animal.

Finally, I just drilled & tapped to the next size.  I think they were 7mm, 
so I drilled them to 8mm.  Or whatever the next size up was.  I even managed 
to lightly pierce the water jacket on one side.  YAY!

Anyway, I wrapped the new, larger bolts in a lifetime supply of teflon tape 
& reinstalled the cooling pipe.  I pressure tested the system - 3 times in 
two days (just to make sure everything was going to hold for a few cycles). 
It held 15lbs for an hour, which I took to be a satisfactory result & 
reassembled the remainder of the engine.  It runs fine.  No leaks, drips, or 
errors.

So, to make a long story sort - you may want to consider tapping them up a 
size.

-Luke
10270 





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 15:18:42 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: advice on stubborn bolt

Building on what David recommends I would also recommend using a cobalt bit. 
The problem with Titanium bits is that they are Titanium coated whereas 
cobalt is the same alloy through and through. Thus when the titanium coating 
wears through (as it will when drilling somnething as hard as a broken 
extractor) the bit is not much better than a HSS (high speed steel) bit. A 
cobalt bit will retain its essential properties even as it dulls. Cobalt 
bits do have a coating, but it is really nothing more than a color coating 
to help you identify that the bit is a cobalt bit.


-Joe Kuchan

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: advice on stubborn bolt
>Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 19:47:09 -0000
>
>Breaking off a drill, tap, or extractor is probably the worst thing
>you can do. With that being said there is still hope. Sometimes you
>can get lucky with a small hammer and centerpunch. Try working the
>extractor back and forth. If you can move it even a little then there
>is a good chance you can get it out. If it won't move at all then you
>have to try drilling it out. It is possible (with a lot of luck and
>experience) to drill it with a carbide bit like as used to drill
>concrete). You have to go a little at a time and constanly redress the
>tip. You can also buy a titanium drill bit, again very difficult to do
>and stay centered but will hold an edge longer but you need a special
>grinding wheel to redress it. Another option is to lay a washer over
>the mess and try to weld a nut to the broken bolt. Then, if all goes
>well, you just unscrew the whole mess right out! A lot depends on the
>skill of the person and his personal experience with each method. If
>you are a novice machinest maybe the thing to do is to have the car
>towed to the shop. Try to talk them into an "appointment" so it won't
>stay in their shop in their way. Do not be tempted to skip it and hope
>it won't leak much without the bolt. It will.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
[moderator snip]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 14:15:05 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: advice on stubborn bolt

This is why i now use Left Hand Drill bits to remove broken studs.

Left Hand Drill bits are used in the reverse speed of the drill like 
what you would use to remove the stud under normal circumstances. With 
a normal drill bit you are tightening the broken bolt as you are 
drilling into it with heat, with a Left Hand Drill bit you might get 
lucky and have the broken stud back out as you are drilling into it.

This procedure has worked very well on my broken manifold stud.

Good luck.

Mark V


On Mar 1, 2006, at 1:47 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> Breaking off a drill, tap, or extractor is probably the worst thing
> you can do. With that being said there is still hope. Sometimes you
> can get lucky with a small hammer and centerpunch. Try working the
> extractor back and forth. If you can move it even a little then there
> is a good chance you can get it out. If it won't move at all then you
> have to try drilling it out. It is possible (with a lot of luck and
> experience) to drill it with a carbide bit like as used to drill
> concrete). You have to go a little at a time and constanly redress the
> tip. You can also buy a titanium drill bit, again very difficult to do
> and stay centered but will hold an edge longer but you need a special
> grinding wheel to redress it. Another option is to lay a washer over
> the mess and try to weld a nut to the broken bolt. Then, if all goes
> well, you just unscrew the whole mess right out! A lot depends on the
> skill of the person and his personal experience with each method. If
> you are a novice machinest maybe the thing to do is to have the car
> towed to the shop. Try to talk them into an "appointment" so it won't
> stay in their shop in their way. Do not be tempted to skip it and hope
> it won't leak much without the bolt. It will.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
[moderator snip]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 15:27:03 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: advice on stubborn bolt

One other piece of advice:

If you can find a VERY well equipped automotive machine shop such as an 
engine rebuilding specialty shop where they deal with this kind of problem 
frequently, they may have a "disintegrator" that can erode the broken 
extractor and bolt out using an electric discharge. No broken extractor can 
stand up to the disintegrator. It chews up whatever is stuck in there with 
no problem and leaves cleans threads in its wake. This is the ultimate 
weapon in the war on broken bolts/extractors, but you may have some trouble 
finding one.

I try never to use the "easy out" style extractors. They are so brittle that 
they seem to snap all the time, and that just compounds the issue. Also they 
tend to expand the remanants of the broken bolt which only makes it tighter. 
  I try to use them only in places where if they should break I still have 
some other viable option. I've had nothing but bad luck with "easy outs" 
really, and whoever named them either never used one or is a liar!  ;)

-Joe Kuchan


>From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] advice on stubborn bolt
>Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 17:08:05 -0000
>
>hey everyone,
>
>i've been working on a major tune-up on my D for the past few weeks.
>one of the short bolts that attach the y water pipe to the engine block
>snapped off flush.  i tried drilling into it and using a screw
>extractor, which i thought was working until the screw extractor
>snapped off flush as well. i really have a problem now as the local
>machine shop said they could only work on it if i take my engine out
>and deliver it to them as they don't have anywhere to work on the whole
>car in their shop.  also, they said i'm going to have a hell of a time
>removing the broken screw extractor. help!
>
>bill
>6976
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 22:43:46 -0000
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Scam auctions

As a matter of interest has anyone found a scam Delorean for sale on e-bay
that turned out to be their car.

Paul
(Belfast)
#2493


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.1.1/272 - Release Date: 01/03/2006
 






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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 18:34:06 EST
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Rooms at the Hampton (NOT FULL)

Sunday Feb. 26th, I called directly to the   Elgin, Ill Hampton Inn. I told 
them I was with the DeLorean Motor Car Show. I  was told they were all booked 
up except for Thursday June 15.
 
I called Holiday Inn and booked a room for the  three nights at $80 a night.
 
When you assured me that they do indeed have  rooms at the Hampton Inn, I 
called the 1-800 number this time. They immediately  booked the room for the 
three nights.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 22:12:01 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: advice on stubborn bolt

Hello.

Yes, it will be difficult to remove the screw extractor.  When I once 
broke my screw extractor in the bolt I was trying to remove, I ended 
up buying a diamond tipped cutter for my Dremel tool, which I used to 
cut the material around the extractor away with.  Eventually, I had 
cut away enough material to grasp the extractor with needlenose 
pliers.  After that I drilled the broken bolt.

It worked, but it took a long time, left a nasty irregular hole, and 
required a thread insert.

Now I only use higher quality expensive name brand extractors.

Rick.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> hey everyone,
> 
> i've been working on a major tune-up on my D for the past few 
weeks.  
> one of the short bolts that attach the y water pipe to the engine 
block 
> snapped off flush.  i tried drilling into it and using a screw 
> extractor, which i thought was working until the screw extractor 
> snapped off flush as well. i really have a problem now as the local 
> machine shop said they could only work on it if i take my engine 
out 
> and deliver it to them as they don't have anywhere to work on the 
whole 
> car in their shop.  also, they said i'm going to have a hell of a 
time 
> removing the broken screw extractor. help!
> 
> bill
> 6976
>









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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 23:37:16 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Wing Like the one on the Yellow D

>Where'd you get the side scoops? Some of us on the DMCForum were
>wondering this the other day...


Those scoops are from a 67-68 Shelby Mustang.  It was about the closest 
thing I could find that followed the lines of the quarter panel 
windows.  They are actually mounted on the wrong sides of the car and 
are also mounted upside down (dont tell anyone).  The back of the 
Shelstang scoop was cut off and fiberglass closed because the original 
is actually a pass thru scoop that sucked air out of the interior of 
the Shelby.  The inside of the scoop was gutted and made to connect to 
the pontoon air inlet.  The scoop also went thru a bunch of grinding 
and fitting to get it to fit the D body nicely.  


>I guess it was a while back that we had this discussion, I think how
>went was something like this. " when you look at the lines of the
>wing tip and the louvre. The wing tip visual line would almost be
>parallel and match the lines of the the louvre if the wing was
>turned around." You agreed. That's why I thought it was installed
>backwards.

Dennis, I do kind of remember that conversation and youre correct, if 
it was turned around it would more closely match the visual lines of 
the car, but... it would be backwards... it was that way when I got it 
and actually it bothered me to leave it backwards so I put it the way 
is was supposed to be.  Of course, I'll mount scoops upside down :~}

I hope you all enjoy my latest work in PR... a supercharged Eagle engine
and more carbon fiber.

Ron











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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2006 07:31:01 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean coke poster... A fraud?

I came across this auction on eBay of a poster of a DeLorean poking fun at the 
cocaine dealing.  eBay # is:  7593531329.  It says that it is signed by John, but there 
is only one problem...  That does not look like any signature I've ever seen of John's.  
Scam?  Again?  What is it with these cars and eBay scammers?

Corey
2423
coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com
corey.ooms_at_dml_us.army.mil








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2006 23:28:13 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Binnicle and dash

 
 
This reminds of when I got my steering wheel recovered. I think it was done  
by American Stitches in Mesquite, TX (had to do a quick google to  remember!)
 
They can recover your wheel and use the proper stitch ( I think they  called 
it a basting stitch?) to look just like new.  It cost me about $300  if I 
remember but it was turned around in a couple of weeks and it was flawless  when 
it came back to me.  Probably better than new. I think a couple of  other list 
members have had them do two tone wheels and I know some guys on a  Lexus 
group that had them add wood sections to a plain leather wheel.
 
Just in case you need your steering wheel redone...
 
Andy
 
In a message dated 2/28/2006 8:01:19 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net writes:

Another  option is a place called Just Dashes.  They can do some pretty
amazing  things with distressed cores.  They guarantee matching grain  and
color.  They are spendy, but you will get an as new  part.

www.justdashes.com


--
Mike





Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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