From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3145

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. new gullwing coupe hits euro market
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. DeLorean at the Oscars!
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

5. A wheel question...
From: "Dave Smith" <xajaffa_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

7. Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

8. Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

9. RE: new gullwing coupe hits euro market
From: "IN2TIME" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

10. Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Reproduction Headlight Switch and home fix
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Dashrestore USA
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Refurbished Prices
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Dashrestore USA
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: new gullwing coupe hits euro market
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>

17. Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Stickers on engine cover
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: new gullwing coupe hits euro market
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

21. DCS2006 - New England area attendees..
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

22. Silicon hose under the intake manifold
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

23. Hollywood celebrity detective indicted for racketeering
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 21:02:11 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak

The FV is under control of the lambda ECU and just obeys "orders". It is the control element of the system while the lambda probe is the sensing element.

How old is the lambda probe, and how many miles are on it? Have you see the tip? Is it sooted up, oily, or clean? The unheated lambda probes used in DeLorean's must be fairly hot to operate. It sounds like your's may be drifting slowly in and out of operating range. This can happen easily at idle with a marginal probe as exhust temps are fairly low at idle. I would inspect and tess, or simply outright replace any suspect probe.

It can be monitored/tested in circuit using a high impedance voltmeter. If you can, put a high impedance voltmeter set to the 1 volt scale on it while the car is running and let us know what it happening. Does the voltage switch cleanly back and forth, or is it "stuck" at one reading. If it seems stuck, what voltage do you see? Or, is it simply drifting around?

Do whatever you can to pinpoint that hissing sound and report where it is. 
You need to find the noise because it is not normal and needs to be dealt with.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak
>Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 05:36:32 -0000
>
>Ok here are my dwell meter readings. My Dwell meter is of the variety 
>that has a + and - lead and then the dwell lead. I have attached the 
>positive lead to the jump post and the negative lead to block. The 
>dwell lead is connected to the orange wire that would normally be 
>plugged into the diagnostic plug. This lead is melted and can not be 
>plugged into the diagnostic plug.
>
>Fixed: 61%
>WOT engaged: 66%
>
>Then after about five minutes the meter goes from 61% slowly to 42% and 
>then pops back to 61% and repeats over and over until it starts to 
>settle at: 55%-44% so 50.5% average
>
>Fully warmed up: 58% - 46% so 52% average
>
>I can not get the meter to fluctuate around 45%.  Further enrichment 
>causes the FV to stop buzzing and the dwell meter reading ceases to 
>fluctuate.
>
>
>Now; I can hear this hissing sound on the driver's side of the engine. 
>Listening through a piece of PVC pipe the sound seems to come from the 
>hose that runs between the cold start valve and the idle regulator.  I 
>removed the hose and it is fine but the sound persists! I originally 
>though that the leak was coming from the tube that runs into the 
>mixture control unit. Any ideas? I am assuming this is a vacuum leak 
>but perhaps it's something else. Thoughts, comments, corrections, 
>criticisms greatly appreciated.
>
>Nathan
>
>2277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 22:29:21 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: new gullwing coupe hits euro market

The April 2006 issue of Motor Trend has a 'newcomers' article about the newest car by Bristol, which according to the magazine is one of Britain's  last independent auto makers.
 
The new Bristol Fighter is a two seat gullwing-door coupe that goes 210 mph and has a Viper V10 under the hood.  There is a great shot on page 122 with the car, doors up. The doors are kind of a cross between the 300SL and DeLorean doors, as far as how deep they cut into the side of the car.  Hard  to tell the mechanism for the doors but it at least has a gas strut on the  trailing side.  There are tollbooth windows too.  Oh yeah, it also  costs $350,000.
 
I guess now we can say there are four production cars with gullwing  doors?
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 07:24:30 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

Hi Marc, all,

My friend recently galvanised his DeLorean frame - it came out fantastic, absolutely no warpage. I'm getting ready to do mine still -  hoping to have it done in the next few weeks so that I can have the car back together for Eurofest... I'll update the website http://www.delorean.ie soon with what has been going on with my restoration.

Anyway, I thought you might all be interested in this fact - galvanising added 40 kg's of weight to my friends frame. This does not inlude any weight addition to the control arms, just the bare frame. He has decided not to powdercoat over the galvanised surface.

How do Lotus Galvanised frames hold up after a few years of use? Do Lotus use anything to protect the galvanised surface from chipping/scratching?

Regards,
John

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
(SNIP>
> WHEW!  With all of that said, I guess this is not a problem that 
> anyone has seen in the DeLorean..  Having just looked at the Lotus 
> frame, I see it is galvanized steel.  Looks to be a bit thinner
than 
> the DeLorean frame (weight consideration?).
> 









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 10:09:37 -0500
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: DeLorean at the Oscars!

Once again, the DeLorean made an appearance via it's Hollywood connection, immortalized in the Back To The Future films.
During the very FIRST 5 seconds of the opening sequence of the 78th Annual Academy Awards, over a Billion people world wide saw the DeLorean Time Machine roaring away from their screens, across the Hollywood hills.
It's nice to see that our cars have made such a positive, indelible mark on the history of film that it would open the biggest Hollywood show of the year!

VideoBob, did you get a screenshot of this. . .?
I also spotted Christopher Lloyd (expected guest at the upcoming 2006 DeLorean Car Show) in the audience. . .
Oliver
vin10694





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 07:17:30 -0000
From: "Dave Smith" <xajaffa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A wheel question...

What is the stud pattern (PCD) and offset of the standard D wheel.

Jaffa. New Zealand.








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 14:14:52 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak

Hi Jeremiah

I trust you are well.... just to clarify...

On the coal canister there are actually 3 hoses coming off.
1no goes to the cold start valve brass tube (canister purge line)
1no goes to the tank vent pipe
1no goes to the throttle body tapping.

Agree on the other blanked off tapping . My tapping is actually 
moulded in as part of the canister itself .. 

Kind Regards

Mike
#2001

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> It could be a loose/rotted hose on the "coal canister"
> that is located in the left side of the engine
> compartment.  There is a little square held in by 11mm
> bolts.  Take that square part off and look on the coal
> canister; there are 3 ends - 2 of them utilize hoses. 
> The third is appropriately labeled "carb", and since
> our stock DeLoreans don't utilize a carburetor, there
> should be a rubber end on that connection.  If the
> rubber is cracked, brittle, or just plain NOT THERE,
> that could be a huge vacuum leak.  It can happen,
> believe me, I found out one afternoon just taking the
> time to look - found that it was completely rotted
> out.
> 
> Jeremiah
> 
>  
> > Now; I can hear this hissing sound on the driver's
> > side of the 
> > engine. Listening through a piece of PVC pipe the
> > sound seems to 
> > come from the hose that runs between the cold start
> > valve and the 
> > idle regulator.  I removed the hose and it is fine
> > but the sound 
> > persists! I originally though that the leak was
> > coming from the tube 
> > that runs into the mixture control unit. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 15:22:18 +0000 (GMT)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

Hi john,

Over here in the UK the Esprit frame holds up quite
well apart from where there are large amounts of heat
like around the turbo.  This can cause the coating to
flake off leaving them to rust.

Dont forget Lotus used Epoxy Coating on the Elan M100
chassis.  These hold up just aswell as the delorean
frame.

Dan

DMC Ltd.

(Ex Esprit and Elan Owner)


--- John Dore <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Marc, all,
> 
> My friend recently galvanised his DeLorean frame -
> it came out 
> fantastic, absolutely no warpage. I'm getting ready
> to do mine still -
>  hoping to have it done in the next few weeks so
> that I can have the 
> car back together for Eurofest... I'll update the
> website 
> http://www.delorean.ie soon with what has been going
> on with my 
> restoration.
> 
> Anyway, I thought you might all be interested in
> this fact - 
> galvanising added 40 kg's of weight to my friends
> frame. This does 
> not inlude any weight addition to the control arms,
> just the bare 
> frame. He has decided not to powdercoat over the
> galvanised surface.
> 
> How do Lotus Galvanised frames hold up after a few
> years of use? Do 
> Lotus use anything to protect the galvanised surface
> from 
> chipping/scratching?
> 
> Regards,
> John
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "malevy_nj"
> <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> (SNIP>
> > WHEW!  With all of that said, I guess this is not
> a problem that 
> > anyone has seen in the DeLorean..  Having just
> looked at the Lotus 
> > frame, I see it is galvanized steel.  Looks to be
> a bit thinner 
> than 
> > the DeLorean frame (weight consideration?).
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 






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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 14:29:53 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

I have an '83 Esprit Turbo.  It spent most of it's life in the upper midwest,
mainly the Chicago area before moving to Michigan for a couple of years,
then Minnesota.  The galvanized frame looks pretty good for it's age.  I 
drive the car for three seasons (rain included).  I have seen the same 
vintage cars from California and the southwest, and their frames look 
almost brand new.  Galvanizing is definitely a better way to go than
the epoxy coating.

There is no protection against scratches other than the frame is tucked
up into the bodywork somewhat.  It's not likely to get scraped by
speed bumps or even road debris unless you are pretty careless.
--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>: -------------- 


> Hi Marc, all, 
> 
> My friend recently galvanised his DeLorean frame - it came out 
> fantastic, absolutely no warpage. I'm getting ready to do mine still - 
> hoping to have it done in the next few weeks so that I can have the 
> car back together for Eurofest... I'll update the website 
> http://www.delorean.ie soon with what has been going on with my 
> restoration. 
> 
> Anyway, I thought you might all be interested in this fact - 
> galvanising added 40 kg's of weight to my friends frame. This does 
> not inlude any weight addition to the control arms, just the bare 
> frame. He has decided not to powdercoat over the galvanised surface. 
> 
> How do Lotus Galvanised frames hold up after a few years of use? Do 
> Lotus use anything to protect the galvanised surface from 
> chipping/scratching? 
> 
> Regards, 
> John 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 07:23:29 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: new gullwing coupe hits euro market

Bristol Fighter Image?

http://www.seriouswheels.com/2005/2005-Bristol-Fighter-S-Side-1024x768.htm

Gary
IN2TIME







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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 16:11:55 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

After looking at the pix, it looks as though Mr. Dixon's Delorean once 
had a seaside driveway.  I hope he got a good deal, that's a lot of 
cancer.

--S



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Dore" <dmcjohn_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi Marc, all,
> 
> My friend recently galvanised his DeLorean frame - it came out 
> fantastic, absolutely no warpage. I'm getting ready to do mine > John
> 










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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 19:54:47 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Reproduction Headlight Switch and home fix

DMCH Reproduction Headlight Switch- I called and asked if they would sell 
the push button that slides over the switch (not the switch) by itself, 
answer no. I have the Headlight Switch Saver Kit in place but my button is 
missing some of the white paint. I know that somewhere I can download a PDF 
and print off something I can overlay. How does this look? What should I 
print it on (Paper, clear plastic)? Anyone sell these? Answers, comments, 
smart remarks?
Charles






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 20:41:49 -0000
From: "dmcerik" <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Dashrestore USA

I received a quote from the Washingtion based Dashrestore USA.  They 
quoted me $700 to restore the dash, binnicle and glove box lid.  
Included would be to strip everything down to metal, and rebuild from 
there with whatever color I would want.  
Has anyone done this?  If so, care to share the results with us?

Erik









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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 09:00:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Refurbished Prices

I stand corrected in saying that D1's website has not been updated.....the new price for a reconditioned car is now $71,500.
   
  However it still says. "The world's largest source for Delorean parts, service and accessories"...curious, eh?
   
   



		
---------------------------------
Relax. Yahoo! Mail virus scanning helps detect nasty viruses!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 16:04:22 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak

On my son's car the two hoses were in great shape but the rubber vacuum cap 
on the canister was very rotten and probably leaking when he first bought 
the car. It soiunds like that is a common issue. You can find those things 
for under a buck at any auto parts store.

If you do have a big vac leak, the lambda system can be driven crazy trying 
to compensate. This is most likely the trouble you are seeing.

To check if the leak is inside the pontoon, just clamp off both hoses that 
go to the charcoal canister. If the hissing disappears, you have a leak 
inside the pontoon.

-Joe Kuchan


>From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Dwell meter readings + possible vacuum leak
>Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 14:14:52 -0000
>
>Hi Jeremiah
>
>I trust you are well.... just to clarify...
>
>On the coal canister there are actually 3 hoses coming off.
>1no goes to the cold start valve brass tube (canister purge line)
>1no goes to the tank vent pipe
>1no goes to the throttle body tapping.
>
>Agree on the other blanked off tapping . My tapping is actually
>moulded in as part of the canister itself ..
>
>Kind Regards
>
>Mike
>#2001
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_...>
>wrote:
> >
> > It could be a loose/rotted hose on the "coal canister"
> > that is located in the left side of the engine
> > compartment.  There is a little square held in by 11mm
> > bolts.  Take that square part off and look on the coal
> > canister; there are 3 ends - 2 of them utilize hoses.
> > The third is appropriately labeled "carb", and since
> > our stock DeLoreans don't utilize a carburetor, there
> > should be a rubber end on that connection.  If the
> > rubber is cracked, brittle, or just plain NOT THERE,
> > that could be a huge vacuum leak.  It can happen,
> > believe me, I found out one afternoon just taking the
> > time to look - found that it was completely rotted
> > out.
> >
> > Jeremiah
> >
> >
> > > Now; I can hear this hissing sound on the driver's
> > > side of the
> > > engine. Listening through a piece of PVC pipe the
> > > sound seems to
> > > come from the hose that runs between the cold start
> > > valve and the
> > > idle regulator.  I removed the hose and it is fine
> > > but the sound
> > > persists! I originally though that the leak was
> > > coming from the tube
> > > that runs into the mixture control unit. Any ideas?







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 17:18:31 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Dashrestore USA

 I'll do it for $200 less and guarentee it for a year.
 
Ken
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcerik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 20:41:49 -0000
Subject: [DML] Dashrestore USA


I received a quote from the Washingtion based Dashrestore USA.  They 
quoted me $700 to restore the dash, binnicle and glove box lid.  
Included would be to strip everything down to metal, and rebuild from 
there with whatever color I would want.  
Has anyone done this?  If so, care to share the results with us?

Erik









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Yahoo! Groups Links



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 17:32:13 -0500
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>
Subject: Re: new gullwing coupe hits euro market


On their web site you can clearly see the gullwing door seams on the  
roof:

	http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/BristolFighter.htm

Oddly, there aren't any pictures with the doors open.  This site has  
one, though:

	http://www.autozine.org/html/Bristol/Fighter.html

-- Joe

> Bristol Fighter Image?
>
> http://www.seriouswheels.com/2005/2005-Bristol-Fighter-S- 
> Side-1024x768.htm
>
> Gary
> IN2TIME





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 23:14:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

Galvanizing (zinc coating) is an excellant way to preserve a mild
steel frame. The drawbacks include a weight penalty and possible
warpage. Even scratches are self-healing to an extent. The zinc
sacrifices itself to prevent the steel from oxidizing, just like the
zincs you would use on a boat. It is not commonly done on cars because
of the weight penalty and the expense. Instead the auto manufacturers
are moving over to composites and plastics. Look at the wheel well
housings on a modern car, they are plastic as are the fasteners. You
will see a composite frame in the near future just as JZD had
origionally plannned for the Delorean! Another drawback to zinc
coating is the danger of welding and grinding. You MUST protect
yourself against the fumes from welding and the zinc dust when
grinding. The dust and fumes are very toxic.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> I have an '83 Esprit Turbo.  It spent most of it's life in the upper
midwest,
> mainly the Chicago area before moving to Michigan for a couple of years,
> then Minnesota.  The galvanized frame looks pretty good for it's
age.  I 
> drive the car for three seasons (rain included).  I have seen the same 
> 









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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 23:14:15 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stickers on engine cover

My recollection is that the workshop manual shows the placement of 
all stickers somewhere near the front of the book.  I believe there 
are only 3 on the inside of the engine cover (or some of mine were 
missing when I got the car).  

I can send you a photo of mine if you email me offline.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc01081" <rgoodwin2001_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I recently have been cleaning up the engine compartment; as such 
am 
> looking to replace the stickers in the engine bay and on the 
engine 
> cover.  Does any have a picture of the correct placement of these?
> 
> Rg
>









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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 23:33:45 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: new gullwing coupe hits euro market

This link has one with the doors open... 
http://www.autozine.org/html/Bristol/Fighter.html

Sean
3372
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "IN2TIME" <Specialty_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Bristol Fighter Image?
> 
> http://www.seriouswheels.com/2005/2005-Bristol-Fighter-S-Side-
1024x768.htm
> 
> Gary
> IN2TIME
>









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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 23:46:44 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Frame Flex? (weight of galvanising)

Manufacturers have been using single-sided galvanized sheet metal for 
quite some time for exterior panels.  Door skins, fenders, deck lids and
hoods have had this treatment since the early 80's.  It's not always 
completely successful because of the processing required to build 
the car - some zinc boils off when the assemblies are spot welded 
together, and some raw edges are left when panels are trimmed to 
fit.  Why not double sided?  mainly because it is difficult to get 
a good paint finish over a galvanized panel.  The paint doesn't 
want to adhere well.

Now manufacturers are moving towards plastics in non-structural
panels (like hoods, fender skirts, etc. as a way to save weight and
improve mileage.  Single-sided galvanized panels are still used 
for some structural items.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>: -------------- 


> Galvanizing (zinc coating) is an excellant way to preserve a mild 
> steel frame. The drawbacks include a weight penalty and possible 
> warpage. Even scratches are self-healing to an extent. The zinc 
> sacrifices itself to prevent the steel from oxidizing, just like the 
> zincs you would use on a boat. It is not commonly done on cars because 
> of the weight penalty and the expense. Instead the auto manufacturers 
> are moving over to composites and plastics. Look at the wheel well 
> housings on a modern car, they are plastic as are the fasteners. You 
> will see a composite frame in the near future just as JZD had 
> origionally plannned for the Delorean! Another drawback to zinc 
> coating is the danger of welding and grinding. You MUST protect 
> yourself against the fumes from welding and the zinc dust when 
> grinding. The dust and fumes are very toxic. 
> David Teitelbaum 
> vin 10757 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 19:14:58 -0500
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: DCS2006 - New England area attendees..

Is anyone from the new england area (I'm from CT) going to chicago and
possibly getitng a trailer to the show?  I need to get the BTTF BMW out
there, and I can't do it alone.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
www.bttfbmw.com





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 16:42:57 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Silicon hose under the intake manifold

Rob & list,

1. Where would one buy the correct silicon hose & clamp for this location?
2. Does anyone have a write-up on the procedure to replace this?
3. Is there anything else I should check and/or replace while I'm at it?

I've replaced all of the hoses throughout my car except those under
the intake manifold and I do have a tiny, tiny leak coming from that
area. I figure it's time to get this job done.

Thanks,

-Ryan

On 3/5/06, rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> wrote:
> Harold is dead-on in advising using
> silicone hoses for the block pipe to water pump backing plate as you don't
> want to do that job twice in one year. A leak there has been known to cause
> the PVR engine block to fail over time. We've been using silicone hose there
> on all water pump replacements for well over twenty years and have never had
> to go back and re-tighten a silicone hose clamp. If you don't want to follow
> a yearly clamp tightening ritual then silicone hose with the correct clamps
> (no open slots for the worm gear) is the only way to go. Although expensive
> initially silicone hose will generally outlast the rest of your car!
>


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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 23:51:06 -0000
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Hollywood celebrity detective indicted for racketeering

Just came across this small news story.

http://news.independent.co.uk/world/americas/article343933.ece
 

Paul
Belfast

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