From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 3:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3157

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Replacing door weatherstripping
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: Stainless Steel
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: DCS2006 - Chicago Area Road Construction
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

10. Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Solving Bosch CIS Problems
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>

12. Charging Problems
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

13. Pearce Design Correction
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>

14. RE: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

15. Re: Charging Problems
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

16. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Chicago/DeLorean Car Show
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

19. Re: Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

20. Re: Charging Problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Replacing lower ball joints
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Charging Problems
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:03:02 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

A quick FYI - Lotus supply different thicknesses, including thinner, for the S1/S2 Epsrit whose trailing arm pivot is exactly the same.

Best Wishes

Martin

>-----Original Message-----
> On Behalf Of Toby Peterson
>
>
> but the thin shims I have seen often will crush down and drop out, 
>which starts the whole process over again.
>You will notice that the DeLorean spec shime are thick and hard - this 
>is a good thing in a clamped dynamic joint.
>








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:07:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Hmmmm - no, bespoke generally means "specific to the car" - eg the DeLorean door handles are bespoke, interior lights are not. Usually applied to parts which can easily be sourced from a parts bin somewhere but aren't. The wheels wouldn't be called "bespoke" for example, despite the pun :-)

Martin

rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com wrote:

><snip> compared to custom
>(bespoke as they'd say in the U.K.)
>







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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:32:51 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Replacing door weatherstripping

I am looking to replace both the inner and outer door seals on my car.
I remember seeing comments from time to time about certain things to
be sure to do when replacing the seals so the door fits well and the
seals don't get torn (like they are now), etc. In searching the
archives the only actual instructions I could find were for the
riveted piece on the top of the door. Can anyone provide me with step
by step instructions to removing and replacing both the inner and
outer seals? I have never done weatherstripping on any cars before, so
no detail or step is too obvious. Feel free to contact me off list if
you wish. Thanks for any and all help or advice!

Dave
#5968







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 20:27:48 -0500
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel

According to http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=965, the 
composition of Grade 304 Stainless Steel should be:

Fe, <0.08% C, 17.5-20% Cr, 8-11% Ni, <2% Mn, <1% Si, <0.045% P, <0.03% S

Michael

Matt Carpenter wrote:
> Out of curiosity, can anyone advise which gauge the stainless steel is 
> on the DeLorean hood?  Also, does anyone know the composition (% 
> chrome, % nickel, etc.) of the stainless on the Delorean?
> Thanks, 
> Matt Carpenter
> 5586
> AZ-D
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:41:38 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Rob, Toby, and all,

I am still in the very long and hard process of getting the TABs even
out of 6704 (don't have much time to work on it).  I finally got the
passenger side trailing arm off, had to cut the bolt, bought 2
new/used trailing arms, anyone need a passenger side trailing arm? 
One NOS, and one used.  The drivers side is going to be a royal pain,
this weekend hopefully.

But I agree with the large washer issue, the bigger one is not
available anymore, and these washers take a lot of abuse.  My drivers
side TAB is so corroeded it won't even move with a 2 foot breaker bar.
 I have NOS bushings to put in, and Toby TABs.  I have checked with
Pearce Designs, their SS trailing arms will only fit the SS frame they
sell.  So what to do?  Have new washers made of a harder material,
flip my old ones around to provide a new bearing surface...  And lot's
of cars are going to be due for this conversion soon anyway.

Bernie,
VIN 6704 and 4045

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> If money was no object and you're willing to live with a harsher
ride via an
> all metal Heim joint as per race car practice then you might
consider it. It
> would probably require completely redesigned trailing arms (ala Pierce
> Design but stock frame compatible)and be rather cost prohibitive. I
think an
> incremental approach by double-nut retention, stronger bolts,
washers, and
> perhaps even bushings (also expensive) would suffice. The first
three items
> combined with careful installation and torqueing would eliminate the
vast
> majority of failures at a much more reasonable cost compared to custom
> (bespoke as they'd say in the U.K.) designed trailing arms.
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 1:02 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
> 
> The hardness of the shims is also a problem. Another problem is the
> spacer inside the bushing. It can collapse especially if you
> overtorque the TAB. The whole set-up is a problematic area. It is not
<SNIP>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:47:48 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz

Just wanted to let everyone know my experience with a vendor 
(recommended to me from an AZ-D member - not his fault though - he had 
no control over it).  I purchased a steering wheel and adapter hub for 
a Delorean on 2/26.  Still haven't got my order as of today.  Sent 
them an e-mail, no response.  Called them, got put on hold forever.  
Was asked by the recording if I wanted to leave a message, I tried, 
was told the mailbox was full.  Of course my credit card has been 
charged.  To top it off, I checked my order status online, which said 
it was shipped, but not all of the order.  Even if the pony express 
they use ends up getting it to me, who wants a steering wheel without 
an adapter hub???  Or who wants an adapter hub without the steering 
wheel???  Just my experience, maybe yours is different.







________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:55:41 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DCS2006 - Chicago Area Road Construction

This is an exellent point.  I was just thinking of this earlier 
today.  How do you think the construction on I-94 will effect the 
driving tour at DCS'06?  I know the tour will now go down 94, but 
the entire city will be quite a traffic nightmare for a while.

Corey
2423

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> With 3 months left until DCS 2006 and the DeLorean 25th Anniversary
> events, some people are starting to plan their routes to Chicago.
> Please keep in mind that there is some major road reconstruction
> going on near Chicago that should be avoided, if at all possible.
> 
> More details at: http://www.danryanexpressway.com/
> 
> Starting April 1st (no fooling), the Dan Ryan expressway (I-94) 
will
> be under MAJOR reconstruction for the next two years.  The good 
news
> is that this should not impact most direct routes from Indiana, 
Ohio
> and all points East, as long as you do not travel directly into the
> downtown area of Chicago from the any point North of I-80.  Most of
> the traffic will take I-294 North to avoid this reconstruction, but
> keep in mind this will have much of the redirected Dan Ryan 
traffic,
> so you may want to take another "less traveled" alternate.
> 
> If you need a specific re-route recommendation, especially for 
those
> of you transporting your DeLoreans in big, enclosed trailers who 
much
> rather take less congested routes, even if they are a few miles out
> of the way.  Re-routes further from Chicago will have less traffic.
> 
> NOTE: New speed enforcement photo vans are placed throughout some 
IL
> construction zones and the mailed speeding tickets can be 
expensive.
> 
> If you would like a re-route recommendation that is not listed on 
the
> website above, email me: Rich [at] dmcnews.com
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
>









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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 01:58:12 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Rob, David, et al - I actually have a design sorted out that 
eliminates all "out-of-plane" bending loads induced by the unusual 
travel that David mentioned in his post.  So many projects, so little 
time.  You would still get the bending loads caused by the 
application of "thrust" through the joint in single shear, but the 
other bending loads would be gone.  The design is such that it can be 
retrofitted into a stock frame, unlike the Pearce Design concept.  
That design is quite elegant, but is compatible only with the new 
frame design.  Your points about the hardened washers are very true.  
I actually looked at obtaining hardened washers when we first 
introduced the TOBY-TAB's, but the cost was very high.  The education 
process relating to the cost of the 248 KSI Inconel bolts has been 
bad enough.  Trying to explain expensive flat washers was just too 
much of a stretch.  Rob - let's compare notes "off-line" and see what 
might be possible.  Thank you to Rob and David for all of your 
contributions to our little silver cars.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> If money was no object and you're willing to live with a harsher 
ride via an all metal Heim joint as per race car practice then you 
might consider it. It would probably require completely redesigned 
trailing arms (ala Pierce Design but stock frame compatible)and be 
rather cost prohibitive. I think an incremental approach by double-
nut retention, stronger bolts, washers, and perhaps even bushings 
(also expensive) would suffice. The first three items combined with 
careful installation and torqueing would eliminate the vast majority 
of failures at a much more reasonable cost compared to custom
> (bespoke as they'd say in the U.K.) designed trailing arms.
> 
> Rob Grady,









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 02:54:52 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with me
I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and attach
it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting drive
:) but I was wondering for those that have open air towed their cars,
do you cover or not cover them? 

I don't really want any damage to occur to the car, and am not sure
how much more or less wear and tear something like this is on a car
compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car covers on ebay
with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the mid section of the
car from the passenger under to the drivers side door to secure the
cover. Would something like this hold while going 55 on the thruway? 

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

-Derek #10084








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 02:56:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

I am familiar with the Pierce design. It requires a redesigned
trailing arm. I was asking out loud for a retrofit that could make use
(if possible) of the origional trailing arm while being able to use a
Heim Joint. The Pierce design doesn't not have any compliance (rubber)
so it  transmits vibration into the frame. The ideal joint would be
flexible in 2 planes of motion AND isolate the frame from road
vibration. It should also have a way to fail without letting the wheel
move too far out-of-place and not be subject to a single point failure
(1 bolt). It also has to be adjustable so you can set the thrust angle
of the rear wheels. A tall order which is why we have what we have! I
agree we can live with it but IMHO it is an item that should be
regularly inspected and if properly taken care of we can live with it
as it is.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> If money was no object and you're willing to live with a harsher
ride via an
> all metal Heim joint as per race car practice then you might
consider it. It
> would probably require completely redesigned trailing arms (ala Pierce
> Design but stock frame compatible)and be rather cost prohibitive. I
think an
> incremental approach by double-nut retention, stronger bolts,
washers, and
> perhaps even bushings (also expensive) would suffice. The first
three items
> combined with careful installation and torqueing would eliminate the va







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 20:57:27 -0700
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>
Subject: Re: Solving Bosch CIS Problems

Of course, another nice way to solve the Bosch CIS K-Jetronic
fuel system problems is to throw it all in the trash and install
Electronic Fuel Injection!!  :-) :-) :-)

Daniel
VIN 10920 (powered by EFI)
Arizona DeLorean Club - www.az-d.org

~~~~~~~~~~
Travis wrote:

>I have never seen this book come up on the DML nor can I find it in 
>the past post. The book is called Sloving Bosch Continuous Injection 
>System (CIS) Problems by James Weber. This is great book that I have 
>found that helped me with the understanding, solving, testing, and 
>repair/adjustments of the CIS system. If you want to learn and repair the fuel system on your Delorean than this book is for you. Check it out at Pelicanparts.com part number PEL-BK-BFI-3. Good book to have in the garage.
>  
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 05:03:06 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Charging Problems

I'm having a problem with my charging system and can't figure out what 
it is.  Sitting still the car charges fine -- 13.5-14 volts at any 
RPM.  As soon as the car starts moving the charging system starts to 
jump around anywhere fromm 13.5 - 8 volts.  As far as I can tell the 
belt is not slipping (at least not when the car is still at anywhere 
from idle to 5000 RPM), the alternator and voltage regulator have been 
tested and are fine.  Ground straps have been checked and cleaned.  It 
is not the gauge, lights dim when voltage goes down.    The only other 
thing that appears to be wrong is the fan fail.  It comes on when 
needed but doesn't turn back off until the car is turned off.  
Related???  

The alternator is a 105 amp GM and has been working great for months 
(until after the problem with the fan fail started).

Please HELP!!!!!
John Poland
05935








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 10:04:14 -0600
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Pearce Design Correction

David,

Your posting is incorrect regarding the design and operation of the  
Pearce Design trailing arm mounting system.

You state that the Pearce Design doesn't have any compliance (rubber)  
so it transmits vibration into the frame.  However, had you ever  
driven a DeLorean with the new trailing arms or examined one, you  
would be aware that rubber does isolate the Heim joint by capturing  
each end of a Rear Control Arm Pin.  This is not apparent without  
disassembling the joint.  A picture is worth a thousand words, so  
please look at a drawing of the system:

http://www.pearce-design.com/TrailingArmMount.gif

Just to be clear, I don't THINK this design works, I KNOW it does.   
The prototype frame and trailing arm system has over 120,000 miles on  
it and several more production frames are accumulating miles every day.

If anyone has specific questions about this system or the PermaFrame  
please feel free to contact me, understand the design or issue in  
question, and then post accurate information to the DML.

Bryan Pearce


On Mar 15, 2006, at 8:56 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> I am familiar with the Pierce design. It requires a redesigned
> trailing arm. I was asking out loud for a retrofit that could make use
> (if possible) of the origional trailing arm while being able to use a
> Heim Joint. The Pierce design doesn't not have any compliance (rubber)
> so it  transmits vibration into the frame. The ideal joint would be
> flexible in 2 planes of motion AND isolate the frame from road
> vibration. It should also have a way to fail without letting the wheel
> move too far out-of-place and not be subject to a single point failure
> (1 bolt). It also has to be adjustable so you can set the thrust angle
> of the rear wheels. A tall order which is why we have what we have! I
> agree we can live with it but IMHO it is an item that should be
> regularly inspected and if properly taken care of we can live with it
> as it is.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 11:14:57 -0500
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Bernie,

Very simple... double nut the pivot bolts, either standard 10.9 or Toby
TAB's, use new 106962 washers (OK substitute for 101935) and torque inner
nut to 60-lb and outer Nyloc nut to 55-lb and you'll be fine. I also
recommend our stainless T.A. shield bracket kit 110811G for easier access to
service or re-align the rear suspension.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bernie
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 8:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Rob, Toby, and all,

I am still in the very long and hard process of getting the TABs even
out of 6704 (don't have much time to work on it).  I finally got the
passenger side trailing arm off, had to cut the bolt, bought 2
new/used trailing arms, anyone need a passenger side trailing arm? 
One NOS, and one used.  The drivers side is going to be a royal pain,
this weekend hopefully.

But I agree with the large washer issue, the bigger one is not
available anymore, and these washers take a lot of abuse.  My drivers
side TAB is so corroeded it won't even move with a 2 foot breaker bar.
 I have NOS bushings to put in, and Toby TABs.  I have checked with
Pearce Designs, their SS trailing arms will only fit the SS frame they
sell.  So what to do?  Have new washers made of a harder material,
flip my old ones around to provide a new bearing surface...  And lot's
of cars are going to be due for this conversion soon anyway.

Bernie,
VIN 6704 and 4045

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> If money was no object and you're willing to live with a harsher
ride via an
> all metal Heim joint as per race car practice then you might
consider it. It
> would probably require completely redesigned trailing arms (ala Pierce
> Design but stock frame compatible)and be rather cost prohibitive. I
think an
> incremental approach by double-nut retention, stronger bolts,
washers, and
> perhaps even bushings (also expensive) would suffice. The first
three items
> combined with careful installation and torqueing would eliminate the
vast
> majority of failures at a much more reasonable cost compared to custom
> (bespoke as they'd say in the U.K.) designed trailing arms.
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 1:02 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
> 
> The hardness of the shims is also a problem. Another problem is the
> spacer inside the bushing. It can collapse especially if you
> overtorque the TAB. The whole set-up is a problematic area. It is not
<SNIP>








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links



 



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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 16:20:32 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Charging Problems

Hello.

My $1 bets that it's a chafed or loose wire making intermittent 
contact with something it should, like ground for instance.  Were it 
my car, I'd drive around with any fuses I could get away with removed 
one at a time, to try to find out which circuit it's in, starting 
with the one you're having trouble with.

Neato problem.  It sounds dreadful.  Good luck.  

Rick.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm having a problem with my charging system and can't figure out 
what 
> it is.  Sitting still the car charges fine -- 13.5-14 volts at any 
> RPM.  As soon as the car starts moving the charging system starts 
to 
> jump around anywhere fromm 13.5 - 8 volts.  As far as I can tell 
the 
> belt is not slipping (at least not when the car is still at 
anywhere 
> from idle to 5000 RPM), the alternator and voltage regulator have 
been 
> tested and are fine.  Ground straps have been checked and cleaned.  
It 
> is not the gauge, lights dim when voltage goes down.    The only 
other 
> thing that appears to be wrong is the fan fail.  It comes on when 
> needed but doesn't turn back off until the car is turned off.  
> Related???  
> 
> The alternator is a 105 amp GM and has been working great for 
months 
> (until after the problem with the fan fail started).
> 
> Please HELP!!!!!
> John Poland
> 05935
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 08:21:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

I pulled a U-haul trailer behind a moving truck about 3 years ago
  from Miami to Pensacola and did not cover my Delorean and
  it was fine, but it did not rain on the way (those truck seem 
  to throw alot of dirt and grit up when the roads are wet)
  If I did it again I would buy a cheap $20 cover and a roll of duct
  tape and wrap the cover on.... I know it does not sound or look
  very good but I think it would keep most of the grap off the D
  Also watch out while pulling onto a U-haul trailer my Delorean
  drug alittle and it was not lowered!
  I would find a parking lot with a little bit of an incline to put the 
  ramps of the trailer on to lessen the angle....
   
  Jamie Hamlin
  Ft. Walton Beach, Fl.
  Vin#2606
  Vin#5677

Derek <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net> wrote:
  I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with me
I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and attach
it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting drive
:) but I was wondering for those that have open air towed their cars,
do you cover or not cover them? 

I don't really want any damage to occur to the car, and am not sure
how much more or less wear and tear something like this is on a car
compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car covers on ebay
with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the mid section of the
car from the passenger under to the drivers side door to secure the
cover. Would something like this hold while going 55 on the thruway? 

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

-Derek #10084








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 09:40:15 -0500
From: Oliver Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Chicago/DeLorean Car Show

Rich-
I thought I'd mention how much I appreciate your thoughtful posts 
concerning the DCS 2006.  You've spent a lot of time organizing road 
side assistance, posting points of interest, transportation options,  
directions, and gathering all sorts of other helpful information to 
help all Delorean owners and enthusiasts get to this landmark DeLorean 
event.
Sometimes,  negative personalities in the DeLorean community get too 
much attention here on the list, and I think your positive influence 
deserves recognition.
Your enthusiasm and helpful, generous spirit makes you a fine advocate 
for the car and a shining example of an owner.
THANK YOU!
Oliver Holler
#10694





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 16:25:37 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

Hello.

It's best not to cover it, in my experience.  The cover will polish the 
stainless as it flaps around.  I've towed my car covered 2000 miles, 
and no matter how hard I tried to secure the cover, it still flapped 
here and there, leaving a few minor shiny marks.   The car should be 
towed facing forward though, if uncovered, lest the wind pull off the 
louvers and hood.


Rick.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with me
> I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and attach
> it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting drive
> :) but I was wondering for those that have open air towed their cars,
> do you cover or not cover them? 
> 
> I don't really want any damage to occur to the car, and am not sure
> how much more or less wear and tear something like this is on a car
> compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car covers on ebay
> with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the mid section of the
> car from the passenger under to the drivers side door to secure the
> cover. Would something like this hold while going 55 on the thruway? 
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!
> 
> -Derek #10084
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 10:33:35 -0600
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz

You paid for this with a credit card so you should document all of the 
ordeal you've gone through and contact your credit card customer service 
department so they can act on your behalf and take the money back from the 
vendor. They will expect that you've exhausted all reasonable avenues and 
may request the documentation I mentioned before they will do this but I've 
had success using this route on more than one occasion.

Bruce Benson

> Just wanted to let everyone know my experience with a vendor
> (recommended to me from an AZ-D member - not his fault though - he had
> no control over it).  I purchased a steering wheel and adapter hub for
> a Delorean on 2/26.  Still haven't got my order as of today.  Sent
> them an e-mail, no response.  Called them, got put on hold forever.
> Was asked by the recording if I wanted to leave a message, I tried,
> was told the mailbox was full.  Of course my credit card has been
> charged.  To top it off, I checked my order status online, which said
> it was shipped, but not all of the order.  Even if the pony express
> they use ends up getting it to me, who wants a steering wheel without
> an adapter hub???  Or who wants an adapter hub without the steering
> wheel???  Just my experience, maybe yours is different.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 16:25:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problems

Most of the time problems like this turn out to be a bad connection
somewhere. More often then not, it is a ground. It can also be a bad
or incorrect belt. If the belt is riding on the bottom of the pulley
it will slip no matter how tight you make it. Measure the outut
voltage at the alternator when the lights dim. If it is not dropping
there you need to do voltage drop measurements to find out where the
problem is.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm having a problem with my charging system and can't figure out what 
> it is.  Sitting still the car charges fine -- 13.5-14 volts at any 
> RPM.  As soon as the car starts moving the charging system starts to 
> jump around anywhere fromm 13.5 - 8 volts.  As far as I can tell the 
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 16:42:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

Hee are the things to know when flatbedding a Delorean:
NEVER PULL ON THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS, use the loops on the frame.
Don't tow with the back facing forwards, you will damage the sunshade
Make sure the trailer is wide enough so you won't damage the tires.
A cover will just flap and beat against the car and scratch the stainless.
Stop once in a while (more often when first starting out) and check
the tie-downs, trailer hitch, lights, and trailer tires (lug nuts and
pressures). If you are stopping overnight with the trailer it is a
good idea to make sure the car is locked and covered. I like to
trailer the car backwards, better weight distribution, but I use an
enclosed trailer so wind is not an issue. If you have problems with
the trailer swinging pull the Delorean as far forward as possible. An
equalizing  hitch with sway control is the way to go but you are not
going to have that on a rental truck. Remember to leave a lot more
room to stop and stay away from 18 wheelers, as they go by they will
"suck" you over into their lane as they pass. Take your time and be
careful.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with me
> I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and attach
> it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting drive
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 09:15:57 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

Just depends, how far are you going to tow it??  The
$20 cover will shred eventually if you use it.  Just
imagine putting one on your car and parking it in a 55
mph wind storm.  Even the form fitting ones will shred
evenutally cause the wind will find a way to get
underneath it.

Mike



--- Derek <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net> wrote:

> I am relocating for work and decided in order to
> take the car with me
> I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the
> ground) and attach
> it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an
> interesting drive
> :) but I was wondering for those that have open air
> towed their cars,
> do you cover or not cover them? 
> 
> I don't really want any damage to occur to the car,
> and am not sure
> how much more or less wear and tear something like
> this is on a car
> compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car
> covers on ebay
> with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the
> mid section of the
> car from the passenger under to the drivers side
> door to secure the
> cover. Would something like this hold while going 55
> on the thruway? 
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!
> 
> -Derek #10084
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 17:39:56 -0000
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Replacing lower ball joints

I've read the posts on lower ball joint breakage recently. I've been 
accuring all the necessary parts for a front-end rebuild anyway.

In all those posts I didn't see anything about PJ Grady's 
reinforcement collars. Has anyone here installed them? Was it 
difficult? Do they work well?

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 17:58:59 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz

Call the CC company, they'll reverse the charge. (Had this type of 
problem with E-Machines...) Once that charge gets reversed, you can 
bet that Big Boyz Toys / AutoToYaz will get back to you.

Sean 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know my experience with a vendor 
> (recommended to me from an AZ-D member - not his fault though - he 
had 
> no control over it).  I purchased a steering wheel and adapter hub 
for 
> a Delorean on 2/26.  Still haven't got my order as of today.  Sent 
> them an e-mail, no response.  Called them, got put on hold 
forever.  
> Was asked by the recording if I wanted to leave a message, I 
tried, 
> was told the mailbox was full.  Of course my credit card has been 
> charged.  To top it off, I checked my order status online, which 
said 
> it was shipped, but not all of the order.  Even if the pony 
express 
> they use ends up getting it to me, who wants a steering wheel 
without 
> an adapter hub???  Or who wants an adapter hub without the 
steering 
> wheel???  Just my experience, maybe yours is different.
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 18:03:19 -0000
From: "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Charging Problems

Have you tried one of the Fan fixes out there?

Sean
3372
AZ-D
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm having a problem with my charging system and can't figure out 
what 
> it is.  Sitting still the car charges fine -- 13.5-14 volts at any 
> RPM.  As soon as the car starts moving the charging system starts 
to 
> jump around anywhere fromm 13.5 - 8 volts.  As far as I can tell 
the 
> belt is not slipping (at least not when the car is still at 
anywhere 
> from idle to 5000 RPM), the alternator and voltage regulator have 
been 
> tested and are fine.  Ground straps have been checked and 
cleaned.  It 
> is not the gauge, lights dim when voltage goes down.    The only 
other 
> thing that appears to be wrong is the fan fail.  It comes on when 
> needed but doesn't turn back off until the car is turned off.  
> Related???  
> 
> The alternator is a 105 amp GM and has been working great for 
months 
> (until after the problem with the fan fail started).
> 
> Please HELP!!!!!
> John Poland
> 05935
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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