From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 7:26 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3158

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

2. Trip to Japan
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

3. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

4. Re: DCS2006 - Chicago Area Road Construction
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

5. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Replacing lower ball joints
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:13:28 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

David and others,

This is one of the newest DeLorean myths that still seems to be continuing, even after being discussed here in the past.

The Pearce Design does have a large rubber isolator that is not easily visible, but its encased in the "cup and cap" style of the new mounting hardware.  Bryan may want to post a photo of this area on the PDC website, to help combat this new myth.

As for retrofit, this has also been done and in fact, the PDC prototype SS frame that Bryan has under his Red DeLorean has been using the stock trailing arms and a custom retrofit kit on the frame for over 100K miles of all weather driving.

However, the point you made in your earlier posts is correct, in the fact that the retrofit is not a cost effective solution for most DeLorean owners, since the body would most likely need to be removed to do the retrofit, and so far, the only retrofit that has been installed was on a brand new SS frame and not a
25 year old epoxy coated, mild steel frame.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> I am familiar with the Pierce design. It requires a redesigned 
> trailing arm. I was asking out loud for a retrofit that could make
use
> (if possible) of the origional trailing arm while being able to
use a
> Heim Joint. The Pierce design doesn't not have any compliance
(rubber)
> so it  transmits vibration into the frame. The ideal joint would be 
> flexible in 2 planes of motion AND isolate the frame from road 
> vibration. It should also have a way to fail without letting the
wheel
> move too far out-of-place and not be subject to a single point
failure
> (1 bolt). It also has to be adjustable so you can set the thrust
angle
> of the rear wheels. A tall order which is why we have what we
have! I
> agree we can live with it but IMHO it is an item that should be 
> regularly inspected and if properly taken care of we can live with
it
> as it is.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 19:42:53 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Trip to Japan

Hi Gang - I don't know if we have any Japanese DeLorean owners lurking on the DML, but I wanted to toss this out just in case - I will be in the Tokyo area next week, specifically in Yokohama.  My business activities during this trip have me at Haneda during the day.  I will be there until my departure on Friday evening (3/24) from Narita.  If there are any DeLorean owners who would like to meet one evening (either Wednesday or Thursday), you can email me off-List at Toby(at) delorean-parts.com.  Thanks.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  









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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 20:03:28 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

Derek and others,

Dave Swingle may chime in before me, but here goes anyways.

I have used the following method with very good success and have recommended it to others and it has worked out for them.

The goal is to keep the car covered and protected without doing and damage from a car cover buffetting in the wind as you tow.

Supplies needed:

1 car cover, good fitting (cheap is OK)
1 bungee cord (with at least 6ft stretch)
1 roll of stretch wrap (used on pallets)
2 rolls of Duct Tape (original silver gray)
2 or more people will make the process easier

Purchase a roll of stretch wrap.  This material is usually used to secure stacked boxes on pallets for shipping purposes. This can be purchased through WW Grainger or other company supply or office supply stores. (Office Max or Depot, Staples, etc.) While you are there, make sure to pickup a two pack or three pack of Duct Tape (the silver works well for all weather use).

If you already have a good car cover, skip to the next step, but if not, almost any car cover (that fits well) will do.
There is a Budge brand gray cover sold at Walmart that is a good throw away cover, if you transport in snow or slush.

Put the car on the trailer and make sure you do not need to go back into the car until you will take it off the trailer.
If the car has run fort a while, wait until it cools down.
Secure the car to the trailer with straps, chains, etc.

Put the cover on the car and hold it down (under the car) with at least one bungee cord during the next step covering process.
Make sure the cover stays snug to the car.  If it billows, run some Duct Tape around it to keep it more snug for the wrapping.
As you get ready to start wrapping with the streatch wrap, keep the stretch wrap stretched and snug as you wrap over the cover.

Secure the end of the stretch wrap to a rear tow hook or around an exhaust bracket and begin wrapping the car, going under and over the car, from driver side to passenger side, overlapping the wrap by at least 2" as you move from back to front.  Secure the wrap on one of the front tow hooks or another secure bracket when you are finished with the first wrap pass in the front.
You can run a few strips of duct tape over the center of the car, front to back, to make sure the overlapped wrap does not slip.

Next, secure the end of the stretch wrap to a rear tow hook and wrap the lower part of the car, wrapping around the perimeter of the car, overlapping as you go up, and finish at about the mirror height by securing the wrap to the loop on the louver latch.
You can run a few strips of duct tape over the areas of the car, side to side, to make sure the overlapped wrap does not slip.

Next, repeat the first wrapping step, back to front, and keep the stretch wrap even more snug and maintain a good 3"-4" overlap.
After the wrapping is complete, run a few more strips around the front of the car, to help keep the leading edge of the wrap nice and secure, even encapsulating the entire front fascia area if you want, to help protect against rocks of the tow vehicle tires.

Your covered car is now ready to be transported without worrying about buffetting of the cover.  Depening upon the weather during the transport, your car should be clean and dry when you remove all the stretch wrap and the cover at its final destination.

Carry the extra wrap and tape, just in case things start to loosen up along the way and make sure to check the wrap at each stop.

Good luck and tow safely.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with
me
> I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and
attach
> it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting
drive
> :) but I was wondering for those that have open air towed their
cars,
> do you cover or not cover them? 
> 
> I don't really want any damage to occur to the car, and am not sure 
> how much more or less wear and tear something like this is on a car 
> compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car covers on ebay 
> with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the mid section of
the
> car from the passenger under to the drivers side door to secure the 
> cover. Would something like this hold while going 55 on the
thruway? 
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!
> 
> -Derek #10084
>








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 22:42:26 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: DCS2006 - Chicago Area Road Construction

Corey and others,

The driving tours will NOT be affected by this reconstruction.

The Friday Driving Tour will focus primarily on the St. Charles area and surrounding communities, staying far away from the downtown Chicago area, especially on a week day.  The tour was planned for this area to avoid traffic issues with Chicago.

The Sunday DeLorean 25th Anniversary Lake Shore Drive Cruise will be staying well North of the reconstruction, making only a short
5 minute jaunt on I-94 just past 18th Street, early Sunday morning and the I-94 reconstruction zone does not start until 31st Street.
Once we exit I-94 onto Lake Shore Drive northbound, we will be moving away from the reconstruction zone and the alternate routes.

Again, the Sunday tour was planned specifically to avoid traffic and provide a great view and drive through the Chicago area.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This is an exellent point.  I was just thinking of this earlier today.  
> How do you think the construction on I-94 will effect the driving tour 
> at DCS'06?  I know the tour will now go down 94, but the entire city 
> will be quite a traffic nightmare for a while.
> 
> Corey
> 2423
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > With 3 months left until DCS 2006 and the DeLorean 25th
Anniversary
> > events, some people are starting to plan their routes to Chicago.
> > Please keep in mind that there is some major road reconstruction 
> > going on near Chicago that should be avoided, if at all possible.
> > 
> > More details at: http://www.danryanexpressway.com/
> > 
> > snip < <









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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 14:26:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?


    In my opinion, I wouldn't cover it.  The cover would probably just  be more of a pain than what its worth.  If the car is being towed off the ground then you don't have to worry about the underneath getting dirty.  It wont kill it if its outside for a day or two without a cover on it.  With all the windows in it of course.  And as long as it sits up higher than the rear wheels of the truck, the truck will block most of the garbage and bugs from hitting it.  I had my car towed from michigain to pennsylvania with no cover and there where no signs of damage on it.  
                                 Ed



			
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 23:08:28 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing lower ball joints

Sounds like you are getting ready for Dan's Tech Session?

Matt

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> I've read the posts on lower ball joint breakage recently. I've been 
> accuring all the necessary parts for a front-end rebuild anyway.
> 
> In all those posts I didn't see anything about PJ Grady's 
> reinforcement collars. Has anyone here installed them? Was it 
> difficult? Do they work well?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
>









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