From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 8:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3159

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Flatbedding DeLorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

2. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Pearce Design Correction
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Re: Replacing lower ball joints
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

7. Re: Pearce Design Correction
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Re: Pearce Design Correction
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

9. Craig radio w/clock for sale on eBay
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>

10. Re: Charging Problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Trip to Japan
From: "dmc12jp" <dmc12jp_at_dml_mac.com>

12. Head mods
From: "Steve Brodsky" <ASNAKEINTX_at_dml_HOTMAIL.COM>

13. Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Manual Gearbox Fluid Change
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Head mods
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

16. Re: Charging Problems
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

17. Re: Replacing lower ball joints
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

18. Monster Garage
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Raffle car update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. Kia (Yes this IS Delorean related)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Replacing lower ball joints
From: "bkp944" <bkp944_at_dml_comcast.net>

23. Re: Pearce Design Correction
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

24. Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

25. JZD's grave
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 18:45:13 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: RE: Flatbedding DeLorean - to cover or not to cover?

No no no do not cover the car!  The flapping of the cover can/will mess with your painted fascias and can even mess with your stainless grain.

I never cover mine in transit, if the car can drive at 70 mph, why can't it be driven at those speeds?

Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
DMC 03461 & 16879
 
The most Useless Radio Station
http://www.uselessjunk.us
 
Yeah I got one of these too:
http://www.myspace.com/jackstiefel
 
Join us in The Lounge
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCLounge/
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Derek
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 9:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

I am relocating for work and decided in order to take the car with me I am going to get a car carrier (completely off the ground) and attach it behind the 16' moving truck. Its going to be an interesting drive
:) but I was wondering for those that have open air towed their cars, do you cover or not cover them? 

I don't really want any damage to occur to the car, and am not sure how much more or less wear and tear something like this is on a car compared to normal driving. I have seen the $20 car covers on ebay with the eye holes to attach a cable kit across the mid section of the car from the passenger under to the drivers side door to secure the cover. Would something like this hold while going 55 on the thruway? 

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

-Derek #10084








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 23:39:07 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

I had my DeLorean on a UHaul trailer about this time last year from 
Marengo, IL to Frostburg, MD.  It was uncovered the whole way with 
no troubles.  Just got a lot of attention and thumbs up. :-)

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ed Kane <wingnut702001_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 
>     In my opinion, I wouldn't cover it.  The cover would probably 
just  be more of a pain than what its worth.  If the car is being 
towed off the ground then you don't have to worry about the 
underneath getting dirty.  It wont kill it if its outside for a day 
or two without a cover on it.  With all the windows in it of 
course.  And as long as it sits up higher than the rear wheels of 
the truck, the truck will block most of the garbage and bugs from 
hitting it.  I had my car towed from michigain to pennsylvania with 
no cover and there where no signs of damage on it.  
>                                  Ed








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2006 16:12:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pearce Design Correction

Byran,

The idea of a SS frame has an obvious appeal to all of
us DeLorean nuts, but the price is somewhat
prohibitive.  

However, we could all benefit from a "kit" to modify
stock frames to use your trailing arm system (and you
get to sell them!).

Can you explain why this system can not be
retro-fitted to a standard frame?

Thanks.

--- Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com> wrote:

<SNIP>
> 
> http://www.pearce-design.com/TrailingArmMount.gif


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 02:50:18 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

If you are still concerned you can install Bauerle's safety support 
kit - if he is still makes it (cost I don't remember - which means 
it was probably not too high). I installed one on one of my cars 
years ago for peace of mind when I drove a 5 speed hard every day. 
If a bolt was ever going to break the trailing arm was not going to 
drop on the ground with the kit on the car.

I auto crossed a DeLorean on several occasions (years ago - long 
before Togy-tabs, which I have now). I burned up the brakes, ruined 
tires, broke the trans, but never bent a trailing arm bolt driving 
the car. I did bend one once on a road construction pothole that I 
couldn't miss. The hit broke the muffler bracket over the alternator 
too it was so violent. A stock new bolt - say one year old. Bent it 
slightly. I think the worry is over done. Proper installation and 
maintenance is what is required. If you are uncertain of the 
installation or when the bolts were last checked - then worry - and 
find a DeLorean vendor or someone who understands the setup to pull 
the maintenance for you.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Bernie,
> 
> Very simple... double nut the pivot bolts, either standard 10.9 or 
Toby
> TAB's, use new 106962 washers (OK substitute for 101935) and 
torque inner
> nut to 60-lb and outer Nyloc nut to 55-lb and you'll be fine. I 
also
> recommend our stainless T.A. shield bracket kit 110811G for easier 
access to
> service or re-align the rear suspension.
> 
> Rob Grady,
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of
> Bernie
>








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 02:03:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

Nope - you beat me to it. I put some photos of this process in the 
photo album under "Shrink Wrapped 2466"

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/photos/browse/a41b

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Derek and others,
> 
> Dave Swingle may chime in before me, but here goes anyways.
> 
> I have used the following method with very good success and
> have recommended it to others and it has worked out for them.
> 
> The goal is to keep the car covered and protected without doing
> and damage from a car cover buffetting in the wind as you tow.
> 
> Supplies needed:
> 
> 1 car cover, good fitting (cheap is OK)








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 01:31:47 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Replacing lower ball joints

The collars are not a thing you should consider getting.. you have to get 
them! No question about it. The lower control arm is designed in such a way 
that this collar in necessary to avoid disaster. This would be another 
recall for a DeLorean is the factory had remained in business a little 
longer.
The installation is easy. Just remove the old ball joint, slip the collar on 
(usually a couple of taps with a hammer will help) and reinstall a new 
joint. That's it.
Check if your car has the collars in place and if not just order them from 
Rob. Small price to pay for a small part that does a LOT.
Good luck

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth:  52°25'17"N 21°1'59"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 16 March, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Replacing lower ball joints


> I've read the posts on lower ball joint breakage recently. I've been
> accuring all the necessary parts for a front-end rebuild anyway.
>
> In all those posts I didn't see anything about PJ Grady's
> reinforcement collars. Has anyone here installed them? Was it
> difficult? Do they work well?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich A.
> #5335





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 04:09:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Pearce Design Correction

I never took the joint apart so you are right, I do not want to spread
any misinformation. Anyway the ideal (if it can be achieved) is to
have a joint that fits onto an origional trailing arm (with minor
modifacations), can be captured in the event of a single point
failure, does not rely on 1 critical bolt, moves in 2 planes of
motion, and is compliant. The Pierce design comes close on most of
these points.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> Your posting is incorrect regarding the design and operation of the  
> Pearce Design trailing arm mounting system.
> 
> You state that the Pearce Design doesn't have any compliance (rubber)  
> so it transmits vibration into the frame.  However, had you ever  
> driven a DeLorean with the new trailing arms or examined one, you  
> would be aware that rubber does isolate the Heim joint by capturing  
> each end of a Rear Control Arm Pin.  This is not apparent without  
> disassembling the joint.  A picture is worth a thousand words, so  
> please look at a drawing of the system:
> 
> http://www.pearce-design.com/TrailingArmMount.gif
> 
> Just to be clear, I don't THINK this design works, I KNOW it does.   
> The prototype frame and trailing arm system has over 120,000 miles on  
> it and several more production frames are accumulating miles every day.
> 
> If anyone has specific questions about this system or the PermaFrame  
> please feel free to contact me, understand the design or issue in  
> question, and then post accurate information to the DML.
> 
> Bryan Pearce
> 
> 
> On Mar 15, 2006, at 8:56 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> > I am familiar with the Pierce design. It requires a redesigned
> > trailing arm. I was asking out loud for a retrofit that could make use
> > (if possible) of the origional trailing arm while being able to use a
> > Heim Joint. The Pierce design doesn't not have any compliance (rubber)
> > so it  transmits vibration into the frame. The ideal joint would be
> > flexible in 2 planes of motion AND isolate the frame from road
> > vibration. It should also have a way to fail without letting the wheel
> > move too far out-of-place and not be subject to a single point failure
> > (1 bolt). It also has to be adjustable so you can set the thrust angle
> > of the rear wheels. A tall order which is why we have what we have! I
> > agree we can live with it but IMHO it is an item that should be
> > regularly inspected and if properly taken care of we can live with it
> > as it is.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
>









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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 13:48:43 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Pearce Design Correction

Hello.

The Pearce trailing arm design is so much better than the stock 
design it isn't funny.

Rick Gendreau

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> David,
> 
> Your posting is incorrect regarding the design and operation of 
the  
> Pearce Design trailing arm mounting system.
> 
> You state that the Pearce Design doesn't have any compliance 
(rubber)  
> so it transmits vibration into the frame.  However, had you ever  
> driven a DeLorean with the new trailing arms or examined one, you  
> would be aware that rubber does isolate the Heim joint by 
capturing  
> each end of a Rear Control Arm Pin.  This is not apparent without  
> disassembling the joint.  A picture is worth a thousand words, so  
> please look at a drawing of the system:
> 
> http://www.pearce-design.com/TrailingArmMount.gif
> 
> Just to be clear, I don't THINK this design works, I KNOW it 
does.   
> The prototype frame and trailing arm system has over 120,000 miles 
on  
> it and several more production frames are accumulating miles every 
day.
> 
> If anyone has specific questions about this system or the 
PermaFrame  
> please feel free to contact me, understand the design or issue in  
> question, and then post accurate information to the DML.
> 
> Bryan Pearce
> 
> 
> On Mar 15, 2006, at 8:56 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> > I am familiar with the Pierce design. It requires a redesigned
> > trailing arm. I was asking out loud for a retrofit that could 
make use
> > (if possible) of the origional trailing arm while being able to 
use a
> > Heim Joint. The Pierce design doesn't not have any compliance 
(rubber)
> > so it  transmits vibration into the frame. The ideal joint would 
be
> > flexible in 2 planes of motion AND isolate the frame from road
> > vibration. It should also have a way to fail without letting the 
wheel
> > move too far out-of-place and not be subject to a single point 
failure
> > (1 bolt). It also has to be adjustable so you can set the thrust 
angle
> > of the rear wheels. A tall order which is why we have what we 
have! I
> > agree we can live with it but IMHO it is an item that should be
> > regularly inspected and if properly taken care of we can live 
with it
> > as it is.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
>









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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 15:46:42 -0000
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Craig radio w/clock for sale on eBay

Just wanted to let everyone know I am selling my stock Craig radio on 
eBay. Has under 2 days left. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8046929597

In good shape, stereo & tape work great. Clock seems to work a bit 
fast, could be due to a poor ground. Never got around to checking on it 
as I only had it in for a few months since I bought the car. Only was 
able to test sound on one speaker as the rest were rotted & not 
working. Any questions let me know, thanks.

-Derek #10084








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 03:00:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Charging Problems

I'm with Dave - it is probably a ground and probably the one at the 
frame that is attached to the trailing arm bracket. It starts to 
roll and movement sets in at the bolt. Some times those bolts will 
corrode and you will not be able to tighten or loosen it (i.e. you 
just think it is tight). Twist or cut it off and start over. In any 
event a new bolt is a good idea.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm having a problem with my charging system and can't figure out 
what 
> it is.  Sitting still the car charges fine -- 13.5-14 volts at any 
> RPM.  As soon as the car starts moving the charging system starts 
to 
> jump around anywhere fromm 13.5 - 8 volts.  As far as I can tell 
the 
> belt is not slipping (at least not when the car is still at 
anywhere 
> from idle to 5000 RPM), the alternator and voltage regulator have 
been 
> tested and are fine.  Ground straps have been checked and 
cleaned.  It 
> is not the gauge, lights dim when voltage goes down.    The only 
other 
> thing that appears to be wrong is the fan fail.  It comes on when 
> needed but doesn't turn back off until the car is turned off.  
> Related???  
> 
> The alternator is a 105 amp GM and has been working great for 
months 
> (until after the problem with the fan fail started).
> 
> Please HELP!!!!!
> John Poland
> 05935
>








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 14:59:23 -0000
From: "dmc12jp" <dmc12jp_at_dml_mac.com>
Subject: Re: Trip to Japan

Toby,

Yes, there is at least one Japanese guy here in the DML. I would be very happy if I could see 
you. I am emailing you off-list. 

I would like to take this opportunity and share my idea with the DML. I replaced the original 
door switch with a reed switch. Reed switches cannot handle a large current but all my door 
lamps are replaced with LEDs so the current is much less. Please look at http://
homepage.mac.com/h.o/PhotoAlbum4.html.  It is working fine so far. Unlike similar 
modification introduced before, it does not require any additional wiring. 

Hideki
Tokyo, Japan


> Hi Gang - I don't know if we have any Japanese DeLorean owners lurking 
> on the DML, but I wanted to toss this out just in case - I will be in 










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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 16:21:46 -0000
From: "Steve Brodsky" <ASNAKEINTX_at_dml_HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Head mods

Anyone have any experience/advise regarding head polishing/porting to 
get a little better performance? How about some larger displacement 
pistons?








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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 08:23:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

I have looked at the Bauerle kit...  

Any discussion on if this kit limits the movement of
the trailing arm?  I seems to me if the end of the TAB
is held solid (in the bracket), then the arm itself
cannot move the way it is intended.


--- Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:

> If you are still concerned you can install Bauerle's
> safety support 
> kit - if he is still makes it (cost I don't remember
> - which means 
<SNIP>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:16:11 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Gearbox Fluid Change

Amsoil has a filter listing for the Delorean. Just looked it up & got it. 
I'm not at home right now so can't check my records for the exact number, 
but I can later. There is also a Delorean listing for the Amsoil air filter. 
       Drive Stainless   Robert  VIN 6924


From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Manual Gearbox Fluid Change
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 21:11:31 EST



Robert -

Which oil filter did you use to cross reference with?  Just in case  you
don't know, the Purflux filter is probably just as good as the Amsoil filter 
  (w/o
the synthetic media).  In fact in oil and lube circles, Purflux is  well
known as one of the best filters manufacturers out there.  Just  wondering 
which
filter you xref'd from.



Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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Yahoo! Groups Links










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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:19:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Head mods

Because of the way the PRV engine was manufactured there is not a
whole lot to be gained by porting and polishing. It is not built like
a traditional American motor with mismatched ports, rough castings,
protuding flashing, etc. That said, it can't hurt either, just don't
expect much. You cannot increase displacement by just changing
pistons. That would involve "boring and/or stroking". Boring is
another way of saying increase the diameter of the cylinders (which
does mean changing the pistons) and stroking means changing the
crankshaft for more piston travel. Boring and stroking the PRV is not
easy in the US, we do not have easy acess to the parts. This engine
was a lot more popular in Europe. You would have to guess what parts
to try. It could take a lot of trial-and-error. DMCH did this and they
call it their "Stage II" crate engine. On the outside it looks pretty
stock except for the exhaust. It does produce more power than stock
but not a whole lot more. This is a great upgrade if you have to
replace a motor anyway (because you melted it from a failed coolant
system for instance).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve Brodsky" <ASNAKEINTX_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experience/advise regarding head polishing/porting to 
> get a little better performance? How about some larger displacement 
> pistons?
>









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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 09:26:44 -0800
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problems

I also agree that your problem has to do with grounding.  Not only replacing bolts, but also putting in "star" washers
(form of lock washer) between the lugs and the bolts/chassis/ground will help in that the points of the star will actually pierce the metal and make a "gas tight" connection.  I would look at the ground from the battery to the chassis, also, strangely enough,
the alternator frame to the mounts.  A simple test is to, with the car running, and as many accessories as possible (lights, fans, a/c, etc., measure the voltage between the alternator output (on the alternator itself and the alternator case (not a bolt, but pierce the case) and compare with the voltage at the light under the luggage compartment lid with the lid open.  You should not see more than a few tenths of a volt difference (0.1 or 0.2)  It will probably be much greater.  

If it is then take a long wire and connect one end to the ground at the luggage compartment light and the other end to the alternator case.  (the alternator case will be the negative point.  You will probably see that most of the difference in voltage noted in the first test will be evident.  If it is, then its time to start tightening the grounds in-between the two points (i.e.. alternator frame to mounts, mounts to engine block, pass through the firewall, battery ground at chassis, block to chassis, and so on)  You will be surprised at the voltage losses going through the ground connections.  Don't forget to wiggle the wires at these grounds gently to see if the voltages change.

If there is little loss in the grounds, then try the same basic test with the + Volts from the alternator to the plus side of the light under the luggage compartment light's positive connection.  Same process of elimination.  Alternator connection (What a dumb idea to have a bunch of wires in parallel there), Pass through fire will (this point really needs star washers) and then through the fuse block.  You'd be surprised at losses in the fuse pins themselves, etc.  

I've suggested the light in the luggage compartment only because it is about a far away (in terms of number of connections and wires) as you can get from the alternator.  

I've suggested star lock washers.  There are two types, internal star and external star.  The internal type are good for connections next to wire lugs, while the external work well between fixed surfaces and washers, nuts, or bolt heads (just the way that the piercing ends are oriented).  Don't get hung up looking for metric star washers, SAE sizes are close enough and can be easily obtained at places like Home Depot, Lowes, OSH, etc.

For what its worth (not much probably),   the engine block to chassis ground, was executed as poorly as possible.  To be dependant on an engine mount bolt is really not neat.  There are several unused, threaded holes on either side of the engine which would make great candidates to add a heavy wire (heavy flat braid is fine) between the engine block and some reasonable point on the chassis, which would provide direct connection.  As the chassis is coated, Star washers are a must to pierce through the coating.  In L.A., where I live, corrosion protection may not be necessary, but those of you who live in snow/salt country might consider spraying over any connections between the chassis and ground wires.

Al

Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4639/#16049

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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 16:47:42 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Replacing lower ball joints

Are there any pictures of that part ?

I haven't heared or seen any car that has this part installed.

I am curious, more input please.

Elvis & 6548...still sleeping



> The collars are not a thing you should consider getting.. you have to get 
> them! No question about it. The lower control arm is designed in such a
> way 
> that this collar in necessary to avoid disaster. This would be another 
> recall for a DeLorean is the factory had remained in business a little 
> longer.
> The installation is easy. Just remove the old ball joint, slip the collar
> on 
> (usually a couple of taps with a hammer will help) and reinstall a new 
> joint. That's it.
> Check if your car has the collars in place and if not just order them from
> Rob. Small price to pay for a small part that does a LOT.
> Good luck
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6149 (in Poland!)

-- 
Echte DSL-Flatrate dauerhaft für 0,- Euro*!
"Feel free" mit GMX DSL! http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:07:58 -0000
From: "valleyrat12" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Monster Garage

I am quite sure this has been covered before, however I would like to 
comment.

I never really though much of that drug addict that runs monster 
garage. Usually his ideas are half baked but this Delorean episode 
really demonstrated his lack of engineering sense. From the beginning 
his comments were nonsensical, like "the Delorean is a failed car 
company" So what! That has nothing to do with making it into a 
hovercraft! No way! I though Delorean was still making cars! Sheesh

The moron was adding so much weight to the car with those PVC pipes 
and steel clamps etc that there was no way it would work; I knew it 
would be a failure from the beginning. And then to put the driver on 
ONE side as apposed to the center was madness! As far as I am 
concerned he sabotaged the project. The only hope the project had was 
with Dons idea of transferring the skins onto the hovercraft. I feel 
sorry for Don, he was treated very poorly. 

That is the last episode of monster garage I will ever see.

I sure could have used that drivers side quarter panel :( ......

Nathan
2277








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 12:53:54 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car update

The raffle car will probably get a work out this spring as I intend to  drive 
it to NJ for their spring social.  I think its the last weekend in  April 
(28-30???)
Anyway me and the raffle car will be there
 
Tickets sales are constant so keep up the good job
 
More people are buying 2 tickets instead of just one this time around other  
than that the  trend on sales is constant so far.
 
See you in Chicago and one of you will drive home in the raffle  DeLorean
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 18:18:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Kia (Yes this IS Delorean related)

I just heard on the news that Kia has decided to build a new plant in
a small town in Georgia. The town and the State is going to invest
$400 MILLION DOLLARS!!!!! towards Kia moving to town. It kind of makes
what the British goverment invested in JZD look like a home loan!!!!!!
Even accounting for inflation over 25 years we are talking about a
State, not even a COUNTRY!! It works out,they say, to $136,000 per
job!!!!! 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:36:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Flatbedding Delorean - to cover or not to cover?

The shrink wrap really held up well on the trip to DC.  When we left Daves house we ran into a pretty wicked snow storm.  A lot of slush and dirt was kicked up by passing semi-trailers.  A few times covering the delorean.  During those times I was really glad to have the shrink wrap on it.  The first night between daves house and DC, it rained freezing rain.  Again, the shrink wrap protected the delorean from this.  There was some freezing done to the wrap, but once we started to drive this all fell off.  You can see in some of the destination pictures truely how dirty the trip over to DC was.   Once we got the wrappings off, I drove it into the new owners garage and we toweled it down.  It looked great, there was no slush to deal with, and the new owner was extremely happy.
  I've trailered a lot of Deloreans, including my own around.  Most have been in good weather conditions.  This was the first time I had trailered a Delorean that was shrink wrapped, and I wouldn't have done it any other way, especially knowing what weather we were going to be dealing with.
   
  Erik
  04512
   

		
---------------------------------
 Yahoo! Mail
 Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 19:15:31 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bkp944_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing lower ball joints

Elvis,

I don't have a picture of the reinforcing collars by themselves, but I 
added a picture of them installed in the Photos area (PJ Grady Ball 
Joint Reinforcement Collar album).

Rob should chime in on the specifics, but the collars press onto the 
control arms first, then the ball joints are pressed in. 

The collars just "beef-up" the thin flange that holds the ball joint 
in place.

-Brian
VIN# 4494

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Are there any pictures of that part ?
> 
> I haven't heared or seen any car that has this part installed.
> 
> I am curious, more input please.
> 
> Elvis & 6548...still sleeping










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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 19:38:11 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Pearce Design Correction

Marc and others,

With so many issues of OEM frame tolerances and the many
more issues of OEM frame rust, I do not think that PDC
would want to go down the route of trying to make a kit
that would work on OEM frames, IF the frame was within
tolerances and IF the frame was in very good, rust free
condition and IF the OEM trailing arms are also rust free.

Of course, proper installation would be critical to correct
operation and there are way too many IF's to insure that all
these conditions have been met.  The one an only retrofit to
use stock trailing arms was done on Bryan's proto SS frame.

However, if there is enough interest, maybe PDC can build a
more cost effective, powder-coated steel frame with all the
PDC improvements, for those who are unwilling or unable to
"pull the trigger" and go with the full, PDC SS frame setup.

With steel surcharges still at record levels, this may be
something that can be explored for the future.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Byran,
> 
> The idea of a SS frame has an obvious appeal to all of
> us DeLorean nuts, but the price is somewhat
> prohibitive.  
> 
> However, we could all benefit from a "kit" to modify
> stock frames to use your trailing arm system (and you
> get to sell them!).
> 
> Can you explain why this system can not be
> retro-fitted to a standard frame?
> 
> Thanks.










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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 17:08:36 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

The joint at the TAB has to move in all 3 planes.  It cannot be
reduced to a simple pivot.  The business end of the trailing arm 
moves up and down and fore and aft as the rear wheel goes over 
bumps.  The trailling arm also twists as the body of the car moves 
about it's roll center.  If you pin both sides of the TAB you lose
the fore/aft motion and the twist.  This will adversely effect 
handling and tire wear and direct suspension forces into places 
where they should not go.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> I have looked at the Bauerle kit... 
> 
> Any discussion on if this kit limits the movement of 
> the trailing arm? I seems to me if the end of the TAB 
> is held solid (in the bracket), then the arm itself 
> cannot move the way it is intended. 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 21:40:21 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: JZD's grave

If anyone was curious about what John's grave looks like...

http://findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=10645202

Corey
2423







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