From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 5:37 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3162

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Vinyl Paint/Dye
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

2. Trailing arm bolts
From: "Dave Bauerle" <dave.bauerle1_at_dml_verizon.net>

3. Coolant Bottle Failure Mode
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

4. DeLorean History
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. Re: Kia (Yes this IS Delorean related)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: Replacing lower ball joints
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

8. Re: JZD's grave
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. DMA Spring Social Info
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Acceleration issue
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Vinyl Paint/Dye
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Replacing door weatherstripping
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

15. Re: Bump!!!
From: "Rick Heile" <rick.heile_at_dml_hp.com>

16. Call for st. patrick's day parade photos...
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

17. Passenger side water leak
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: DeLorean History
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. RE: Acceleration issue
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. customized DeLorean
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

21. thanks - idle and doors sorted
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

22. RE: [DMA-Members] DMA Spring Social Info
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

23. Re: Acceleration issue
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. Re: Passenger side water leak
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

25. K-Jetronic Fuel Injection
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:16:45 +0000 (GMT)
From: James Pilcher <jamespilcher1_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Vinyl Paint/Dye

Hi, my dashboard is all burnt up and discoloured by the sun and I need some vinyl dye to recoat it.

I live in the UK and delorean UK don't source it anymore. Apparently Plastikote #408 Charcoal Grey Duplicolor Ultra Vinyl is a perfect match for the delorean's interior but i dont know what brand name that falls under in the UK, if it is even distributed here. (It's possible it's Holts but I'm not sure.) Can anyone let me know of a UK equivalent, or a US distributor that would ship me a can.

thanks,
james
5380



		
___________________________________________________________
NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 06:52:30 -0000
From: "Dave Bauerle" <dave.bauerle1_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Trailing arm bolts

 
  I always find the TAB discussion interesting, esp. when it concerns 
my support kits that I used to make. It seems to me that anyone 
concerned about the twisting motion of the trailing arm being too 
restricted by the kit maybe hasn't actually seen one. This kit merely 
provided additional support on the outside of the TA through a rubber 
bushing which allowed some movement. I realize that if something 
can't flex it will break. This is why I have never been a fan of 
super hard bolts because of the fear that if it broke under super 
stress you would lose total control. If the bolt stretches and bends 
at least it is still there. These bolts must be inspected 
periodically for bending no matter what. I always felt that the 
biggest problem was caused by hard braking on rough roads, not 
acceleration. The brakes are stronger than the engine.
Of all the kits I sold I never received word of a TAB or a kit  
failure. I only had one kit returned to me and that was because the 
owner didn't want to drill holes in the frame.
  Back when I brought these out the primary access to DMC owners was 
through the DOA. I never felt that I got much support from him(oops, 
I meant them). When I first attempted to advertise the kits in the DW 
I had to send a sample to Don Steiger for his approval. I always 
wondered if Ed had to go through the same approval process.
  Anyhow, sorry about the sarcasm. The kits did work and I know that 
there are still DMC's running them.
  The main thing is to maintain the bolts whether stock or otherwise.
If you drive hard they should be checked more often just like 
anything else. Make sure they aren't bent and are not seized in the 
trailing arm. Dave








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 14:47:31 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode

Is there any trend in the way coolant bottles fail?  I thought I 
previosly read that the ones that failed, did so early.  Does that mean 
mine that has 80 - 100K miles is relatively immune to failure or is it 
a ticking time bomb?

Are there any replacements still out there other than the stainless 
steel models?

Any known  / documented cross references to plastic one so you can 
still view the water level without opening the cap?

Thanks,

D² & 6530
Dave Delman







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 11:22:24 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean History

Well for you DeLorean history buffs I was able to go through a fraction of  
the stuff we found about the daily operations of the DeLorean Motor  Company.
 
In it are original pencil notes taken during meetings and some of the lists  
created of the defects in the cars and some of the fixes. 
 
We have as we mentioned some indication that John actually paid some of his  
US employees out of his own account. 
 
We have found canceled and in one case an  un cashed check from John  to an 
employee and there are some very interesting details that go with it but  you 
will have to come to the show to learn about it.
 
I believe there are close to 5000 documents in this collection and since we  
got it so late we will pull out some of them for Chicago as they pertain to 
John  and the company and leave the rest for a future show.
 
This stuff is really cool 
 
The more we look the more we are finding.  
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:50:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode

The plastic header bottle IS a ticking time bomb. They were not meant
to last this long. Between the heat and the aging the plastic is
breaking down and it is just a matter of time to failure. Some vendors
offer a S/S bottle and some offer aluminum. As far as use matters they
are equal, it is only a matter of looks which one to chose, the S/S
one is also more expensive. As for checking the level, it is pretty
hard to see the level in an old, plastic bottle anyway. If you want to
see the level I recomend adding an overflow bottle attached to the
header bottle as used on all new cars. Another option is to just check
the level by removing the radiator cap when the motor is cold, once a
week. My guess at what really kills the bottles is if you ran the
coolant level too low because of slow leaks eventually the motor will
shoot superheated steam into the header bottle. This is not what the
plastic bottle was made for and it will blow it apart. If you look
closely at the plastic bottle you will see all little lines in it.
They look like stress cracks in the plastic. It could be a sign of
overstress and/or aging and it is scary. That's why I put a metal tank
on my car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Is there any trend in the way coolant bottles fail?  I thought I 
> previosly read that the ones that failed, did so early.  Does that mean 
> mine that has 80 - 100K miles is relatively immune to failure or is it 
> a ticking time bomb?
> 
> Are there any replacements still out there other than the stainless 
> steel models?
> 
> Any known  / documented cross references to plastic one so you can 
> still view the water level without opening the cap?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> D² & 6530
> Dave Delman
>








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 13:36:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kia (Yes this IS Delorean related)

I think that it is mainly tax breaks and land that is sitting fallow. A break on taxes that they would never get without Kia moving there and 2600 jobs that they wouldn't have. Those workers will be paying taxes and spending money in the area. I wonder if ENRONs' accountants wrote that piece?
   
  Chris
  06301

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
  I just heard on the news that Kia has decided to build a new plant in
a small town in Georgia. The town and the State is going to invest
$400 MILLION DOLLARS!!!!! towards Kia moving to town. It kind of makes
what the British goverment invested in JZD look like a home loan!!!!!!
Even accounting for inflation over 25 years we are talking about a
State, not even a COUNTRY!! It works out,they say, to $136,000 per
job!!!!! 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:59:02 -0500
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Replacing lower ball joints

Elvis & Brian,

The B.J. reinforcement ring is designed to eliminate the lower ball joint's
tendency to expand, over time and many impacts, the mounting area of the
lower link arm causing a loose fit and audible clunking over bumps. The ring
presses up onto the underside of the original mounting area which has an
approximately 7.5mm deep by 2mm wide lip for receiving the ball joint. This
thin lip is what distorts so the ring is pressed onto the lip... contracting
the opening for better retention and increasing the thickness of the area by
8mm to a total combined of ten. The mounting hole becomes five times thicker
and the O.D. of the area increases by over 100%. You must of course remove
and re-install the ball joint to install this simple but very effective fix.

While I've come with quite a few improved or unique DeLorean related parts
over the years I credit this fix to Jerry Rine, back in the early 80's, from
the Kapac years. The younger people here might have to consult with an old
timer on the list to know who and what that was and most likely they could
all tell you. Anyway Jerry mentioned he had gotten something similar from
someone but didn't have anymore so I had some made and he started buying
them from us as he needed them. Thusly the story of The Ring was born :) 

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-- Jerry Rine ---
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Elvis Nocita
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 2:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: AW: [DML] Replacing lower ball joints

Hey Brian, thank you.

how thick is such a collar ?
If you still want to install the clip on top of the balljoint,
then it can be only less than a millimeter ?!?

Elvis



Elvis,

I don't have a picture of the reinforcing collars by themselves, but I 
added a picture of them installed in the Photos area (PJ Grady Ball 
Joint Reinforcement Collar album).

Rob should chime in on the specifics, but the collars press onto the 
control arms first, then the ball joints are pressed in. 

The collars just "beef-up" the thin flange that holds the ball joint 
in place.

-Brian
VIN# 4494





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:31:15 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: JZD's grave

 I thought that was very cool and respectful. I have relatives in
Michigan..Im gonna visit the grave when Im up there








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:05:53 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DMA Spring Social Info

Ok DeLorean owners and enthusiasts, here’s the info for the DMA Spring
Social. Sorry it took so long, but I’m doing the best I can under the
current circumstances.
 
Dates: Friday 4/28, Saturday 4/29, Sunday 4/30
 
Hotel:
Ramada Inn in Flemington on Rt.202 north. Address is 250 Route 202 & 31
Flemington, NJ 08822. The price is a discounted rate at $75/night; 2 people
per room. If you want a 3rd person in your room, it’s $10 more. There are
currently 15 rooms available; 7 kings, 8 double beds. You need to mention
that you are with the DeLorean Mid Atlantic club to get this reduced rate.
The deadline for this reservation is 4/14/06, so don’t wait! You can reserve
now and if you need to cancel, you can as long as you give them 24 hours
notice. This package includes hi-speed internet availability, continental
breakfast, a bar and night club on site, fitness room and a pool (too cold
probably). There are also rooms available that have a Jacuzzi in them for
$140 if you prefer a fancier room. 
 
Friday night dinner:
This will be a more informal dinner at a local restaurant (7pm) where the
food is just as fabulous as its prices. No need to reserve here since it
will be a “pay as you go” dinner. It’s about 1 mile from the hotel. We’ll
meet in the Hotel parking lot and leave at about 6:45 to head over to the
restaurant. 
 
Saturday:
There will be a continental breakfast in the hotel, and then the tech event
at Car Tech (464 Route 202 north, Flemington, NJ) at 10am where owners will
have their cars inspected and torsion bars adjusted by Ken Koncelik and Dave
T. There will be food, music, and raffles. Lunch will be provided for club
members only at no charge. The free lunch is due to the wonderful support
from the members during our raffles. As long as you all keep participating
in the raffles so well, we’ll be able to incorporate bonuses like this!
When the event is wrapped up at around 5pm, we’ll head back to the hotel for
people to relax and get cleaned up. Then at 6:30 we’ll head over to a nice
relaxing dinner at Giovanni’s Fine Northern Italian Restaurant. The food
there is second to none, and everything is home made. This is one of my
favorite restaurants in the whole world! The food is outstanding. This is
one dinner you won’t want to miss! We have a special group rate of
$30/person (including tax & tip) which includes:
 
1)       Appetizer: ½ Penne Pasta (Served in a pink Vodka Sauce)
2)       Salad: Mixed Baby Greens (Tossed with Balsamic Vinaigrette
dressing)
3)       Entrée: Your choice of:
a) Veal Sorentina (Sautéed Veal Scallopine topped with Prosciutto, Eggplant,
and fresh Mozzarella Cheese finished in a light red sauce)
b) Chicken Marsala (Boneless Breast of Chicken finished in a Mushroom and
Brown Sauce)
c) Scottish Salmon (Grilled Salmon served over a bed of Spinach finished in
a Mustard Sauce)
      4)    Desert: Tiramisu & Coffee or Tea
 
NOTICE: YOU NEED TO RESERVE YOUR SEAT(S) FOR DINNER EITHER BY MAILNG A CHECK
TO OUR CLUB TREASURER OR BY RESERVING ON THE WEBSITE BY 4/14!!! If you do
not make the reservation by 4/14, the price per seat will be $35 per person
at the door. Also, keep in mind that the restaurant only holds a certain
number of people. If it’s full, that’s it! So, don’t wait until it’s too
late!
 
After Dinner, we’ll head back to the Hotel to regroup and you can either go
to sleep, or hit the bar and night club. 
 
Sunday will be a caravan to Raceway Park Auto Show and swap meet in Old
Bridge, NJ where members can compete in the car show to win a trophy!
 
Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. Thank you, and see you
then!!!
 
---Evil Dan
DMA Activities Director
 

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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 18:17:30 -0000
From: "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Acceleration issue

Hello all,

I notice that SOMETIMES when I start my car from cold I have a lag in
acceleration resembling a misfire. This only lasts for about 30
seconds. I recently replaced the original fuel accumulator and about 2
months ago I noticed a few grains of dirt in the fuel filler that more
than likely made in into the tank despite my best efforts to clean it.
Would this cold acceleration problem indicate I need to change my fuel
filter? I'm thinking maybe some of this dirt and parts of the bad fuel
accumulator diaphragm have made it into the filter. I know the car is
hungrier for fuel when cold, so maybe this is a good place to start...
Any thoughts? Thanks!

Dan









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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 19:42:39 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Vinyl Paint/Dye

Hi James

I have some of the plasticote stuff from the US but it turned out to be 
too blue. We are investigating an alternative source of the colour and 
the reason we stopped doing it was a pain to get hold of.

Best Wishes

Martin

James Pilcher wrote:

>Hi, my dashboard is all burnt up and discoloured by
>the sun and I need some vinyl dye to recoat it.
>
>I live in the UK and delorean UK don't source it
>anymore. Apparently Plastikote #408 Charcoal Grey
>Duplicolor Ultra Vinyl is a perfect match for the
>delorean's interior but i dont know what brand name
>that falls under in the UK, if it is even distributed
>here. (It's possible it's Holts but I'm not sure.) Can
>anyone let me know of a UK equivalent, or a US
>distributor that would ship me a can.
>
>thanks,
>james
>5380
>
>  
>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 19:54:38 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode

Hi Dave

I'm in the "keep stainless away from my cooling system" camp too, so the 
bottles we have made are hand-welded from the same stuff our rad guy 
uses to fabricate metal end tanks for our aluminium radiators. They're 
done in a simple satin black finish, and we have an extra barb fitted to 
the rear end to allow a direct hook up to the water pump bleed screw - 
aka the self-bleed kit, but a lot neater. Here's a photo

http://www.delorean.co.uk/Resources/new_engine.jpg

I've seen bottles that have exploded. Bottles that are cracked up so 
badly you can pull chunks out with your thumbnail, and bottles that look 
absoilutely perfect but leak from the original seam along the bottom.

Best Wishes

Martin
DMC Ltd
www.delorean.co.uk



drdhdmd wrote:

>Is there any trend in the way coolant bottles fail?  I thought I 
>previosly read that the ones that failed, did so early.  Does that mean 
>mine that has 80 - 100K miles is relatively immune to failure or is it 
>a ticking time bomb?
>
>Are there any replacements still out there other than the stainless 
>steel models?
>
>Any known  / documented cross references to plastic one so you can 
>still view the water level without opening the cap?
>
>Thanks,
>
>D² & 6530
>Dave Delman
>  
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:43:13 -0800 (PST)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Coolant Bottle Failure Mode

Now another question has been raised---is the plastic
bottle a 'piece of crap', designed to last only 20+
years, or is the part that is breaking down really the
seam that joins the two halves together??  I've seen
several dozen of these plastic bottles and I have yet
to see the plastic in the bottle 'come apart'.  In the
two leaking cases I have seen, it is always the seam
that separates.  This is where the leaks develop.  In
both those cases, the cars were driven until they
overheated, which if you think about it, caused the
pressure in the bottle to exceed the intended design
limits.  Why didn't the bottle cap relieve this
pressure??----because in both cases, after market cap
was used and the pressure rating was too high.

Now, in this same vein, has anyone ever seen the seam
split on the top of the bottle and start to leak?? 
The only ones I am aware of were on the bottom, where
the liquid rests, which leads one to assume that maybe
the corrosive effect of the liquid is eating away at
the seam.  Just a thought.  :-)

Mike     1630    TPS


--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:

> The plastic header bottle IS a ticking time bomb.
> They were not meant
> to last this long. Between the heat and the aging
> the plastic is
> breaking down and it is just a matter of time to
> failure. Some vendors
> offer a S/S bottle and some offer aluminum. As far
> as use matters they
> are equal, it is only a matter of looks which one to
> chose, the S/S
> one is also more expensive. As for checking the
> level, it is pretty
> hard to see the level in an old, plastic bottle
> anyway. If you want to
> see the level I recomend adding an overflow bottle
> attached to the
> header bottle as used on all new cars. Another
> option is to just check
> the level by removing the radiator cap when the
> motor is cold, once a
> week. My guess at what really kills the bottles is
> if you ran the
> coolant level too low because of slow leaks
> eventually the motor will
> shoot superheated steam into the header bottle. This
> is not what the
> plastic bottle was made for and it will blow it
> apart. If you look
> closely at the plastic bottle you will see all
> little lines in it.
> They look like stress cracks in the plastic. It
> could be a sign of
> overstress and/or aging and it is scary. That's why
> I put a metal tank
> on my car.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd"
> <doctorDHD_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > Is there any trend in the way coolant bottles
> fail?  I thought I 
> > previosly read that the ones that failed, did so
> early.  Does that mean 
> > mine that has 80 - 100K miles is relatively immune
> to failure or is it 
> > a ticking time bomb?
> > 
> > Are there any replacements still out there other
> than the stainless 
> > steel models?
> > 
> > Any known  / documented cross references to
> plastic one so you can 
> > still view the water level without opening the
> cap?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > D² & 6530
> > Dave Delman
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 


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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:00:47 -0800
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing door weatherstripping

Dave,
The first time I replaced weather stripping was on my D too. Here's are the 
steps I took:

Start on the passenger side. You won't see this side much so you should be 
a pro when it comes time to do the "all important" driver side.

Remove the old weather stripping. The inner ones just pull right off. The 
outer ones will take some effort. Be sure to use some 3M General Purpose 
Adhesive Remover to get rid of the old adhesive on the D. Next, shave any 
fiberglass away in the corners where the old inner strip was torn. This 
lowers the strip and prevents it from being crushed and torn. Don't take 
too much off, or else it won't seal properly!

Now you are ready to install the new stuff. Get some 3M Super Weather Strip 
Adhesive glue (black, not yellow). Follow the directions on the tube when 
applying to the inner strips. Don't go crazy with this stuff, or else you 
will have to clean it up later. I broke the job up into a few sections at a 
time to make it easier to handle.

The outer strips just push into place. Make sure the side with the holes 
face the outside. Glue the two ends together where they join near the door 
switches.

Finally after the glue dries, clean the strips with a rubber conditioner or 
silicone lubricant. This will allow the door to close without the rubber 
gripping and tearing.

Hope this helps,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 01:32 AM 3/16/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>I am looking to replace both the inner and outer door seals on my car.
>I remember seeing comments from time to time about certain things to
>be sure to do when replacing the seals so the door fits well and the
>seals don't get torn (like they are now), etc. In searching the
>archives the only actual instructions I could find were for the
>riveted piece on the top of the door. Can anyone provide me with step
>by step instructions to removing and replacing both the inner and
>outer seals? I have never done weatherstripping on any cars before, so
>no detail or step is too obvious. Feel free to contact me off list if
>you wish. Thanks for any and all help or advice!
>
>Dave
>#5968





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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:00:48 -0000
From: "Rick Heile" <rick.heile_at_dml_hp.com>
Subject: Re: Bump!!!

Thanks for the execellent idea but that was not the problem. It turned 
out that the insulation cracked off from one of the wires going to the 
driver's door switch and was grounding out against a metal bolt.

Rick  







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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 18:17:03 -0500
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Call for st. patrick's day parade photos...

Hey Gang,

Once again we are assembling a collage of photos from the St. Patrick's day parades across the country for our April issue of DCS magazine.

Our deadline for the printer is upon us, but if you have photos you'd like to share with the rest of the community in the magazine please e-mail them to me as high resolution (300 dpi) jpgs, and I'll include as many as I can.  My e-mail address is: jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net

Thanks,
Josh



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:26:13 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Passenger side water leak

My car is a daily driver and almost always parked outdoors, so it 
has seen it's share of the elements in the 2 years I've had it. 
Normally I have no problems with rain. However last week I found the 
passenger floor flooded with water. I removed the carpeting and the 
seat and have cleaned and dried them. I found 3 leaks that have 
simulatenously sprung up in the same area. The first was the lower 
bolt of the two near the "front recess panel area" and the second 
was the bottom right corner of that "panel" right next to those two 
bolts, as pictured on page 8 of Service Bulletin 33 concerning water 
leaks. Both of these places had silicone sealant on them, but I 
guess it had worked loose over time. I removed the old stuff and 
resealed it with some RTV gasket sealant and they no longer leak. 
The third leak is coming down the fiberglass wall from under the 
corner where the dashboard meets the wall. I can't figure out where 
the water is coming from. I pulled the inner door seals back and put 
sealant on all the vertical edges of where the vinyl material wraps 
around the body edge, under the inner door seals, but water still 
leaks in that 3rd spot. What is the path water takes to drain down 
that front seal trough? I can't see how the water is getting inside 
the car from that 3rd spot. I hope that was a bit clearer than mud. 
I'll try and take a few pictures with a friend's digital camera and 
post them if needed to clarify what I mean. Thanks for any and all 
help everyone,

Dave
#5968








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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:55:54 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean History

Do you see a future for a limited production book that tells the 
story of the company through the more interesting examples of these 
documents?  (Coffee table style, maybe).

--Sam


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> Well for you DeLorean history buffs I was able to go through a 
fraction of  
> the stuff we found about the daily operations of the DeLorean 
Motor  Company.
>  
> In it are original pencil notes taken during meetings and some of 
the lists  
> created of the defects in the cars and some of the fixes. 
>  
> We have as we mentioned some indication that John actually paid 
some of his  
> US employees out of his own account. 
>  
> We have found canceled and in one case an  un cashed check from 
John  to an 
> employee and there are some very interesting details that go with 
it but  you 
> will have to come to the show to learn about it.
>  
> I believe there are close to 5000 documents in this collection and 
since we  
> got it so late we will pull out some of them for Chicago as they 
pertain to 
> John  and the company and leave the rest for a future show.
>  
> This stuff is really cool 
>  
> The more we look the more we are finding.  
>  
> Ken
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 18:47:44 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Acceleration issue

Dan, A fuel filter may need to be changed, because it may be adding to a
fuel distribution problem, but it sounds like the warm up regulator may be
going bad.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Daniel
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Acceleration issue

Hello all,

I notice that SOMETIMES when I start my car from cold I have a lag in
acceleration resembling a misfire. This only lasts for about 30
seconds. I recently replaced the original fuel accumulator and about 2
months ago I noticed a few grains of dirt in the fuel filler that more
than likely made in into the tank despite my best efforts to clean it.
Would this cold acceleration problem indicate I need to change my fuel
filter? I'm thinking maybe some of this dirt and parts of the bad fuel
accumulator diaphragm have made it into the filter. I know the car is
hungrier for fuel when cold, so maybe this is a good place to start...
Any thoughts? Thanks!

Dan









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 19:52:06 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: customized DeLorean

May be (pending a sale) in the market for  "a new to me" unusual DeLorean.
Will be my 4th.
Would really prefer Chev powered - with supercharger.
Nitrous would be a good addition.
Ok, if painted - depends on the finish.
Will consider a reasonably priced, customized DeLorean.
Hello, Ron!
Cannot afford Curtis' car - but would love it!!!

Any drawings available on a streetable driver, sensible, customized DeLorean?
Have seen the European version.
Do not want flames, Monster Garage stuff!

Where is the Northstar DeLorean or the Liggett DeLorean?

Have a cool '40 Ford sedan also for sale - completed in and out, Chev driveline, automatic, air, etc.

Please email me off this list.
May also have to seek a divorce lawyer!

Marv.
# 17077
marv(at)printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.5/284 - Release Date: 3/17/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 01:14:20 -0000
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: thanks - idle and doors sorted

Hi Guys,

Just a wee update.

Thanks for all the advice, got the idle sorted (dropped the "throttle arm"
linkage at one end and gave it another turn and with some 3 in one lub oil
around the spring).  She now just purrs around 800-900rpm

Also got doors sorted although I have to thank Paul O'Maley for that one as
he adjusted them for me.  It would seem that the last owner had been
tinkering in there too cos some of the rods were bent (more that what they
would have been from just me working in there - lol)

All the best.

Paul
Belfast

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.5/284 - Release Date: 17/03/2006
 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 21:03:05 -0500
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: RE: [DMA-Members] DMA Spring Social Info

Please note:  The Delorean Mid-Atlantic Website has been updated with the
details of the upcoming Spring Social.  You can also pre-pay for the event
via paypal and confirm your dinner reservations.
 
Details can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
 
We are still looking for donations for raffle Items.  If you are interested
in donating items, please send an e-mail to DMA-Officers(at)yahoogroups.com
 
Thank You
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club

  _____  

From: DMA-Members_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:DMA-Members_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dan RC30
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:06 PM
To: DMA-Members_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com;
DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DMA-Members] DMA Spring Social Info


Ok DeLorean owners and enthusiasts, here’s the info for the DMA Spring
Social. Sorry it took so long, but I’m doing the best I can under the
current circumstances.

Dates: Friday 4/28, Saturday 4/29, Sunday 4/30

Hotel:
Ramada Inn in Flemington on Rt.202 north. Address is 250 Route 202 & 31
Flemington, NJ 08822. The price is a discounted rate at $75/night; 2 people
per room. If you want a 3rd person in your room, it’s $10 more. There are
currently 15 rooms available; 7 kings, 8 double beds. You need to mention
that you are with the DeLorean Mid Atlantic club to get this reduced rate.
The deadline for this reservation is 4/14/06, so don’t wait! You can reserve
now and if you need to cancel, you can as long as you give them 24 hours
notice. This package includes hi-speed internet availability, continental
breakfast, a bar and night club on site, fitness room and a pool (too cold
probably). There are also rooms available that have a Jacuzzi in them for
$140 if you prefer a fancier room. 

Friday night dinner:
This will be a more informal dinner at a local restaurant (7pm) where the
food is just as fabulous as its prices. No need to reserve here since it
will be a “pay as you go” dinner. It’s about 1 mile from the hotel. We’ll
meet in the Hotel parking lot and leave at about 6:45 to head over to the
restaurant. 

Saturday:
There will be a continental breakfast in the hotel, and then the tech event
at Car Tech (464 Route 202 north, Flemington, NJ) at 10am where owners will
have their cars inspected and torsion bars adjusted by Ken Koncelik and Dave
T. There will be food, music, and raffles. Lunch will be provided for club
members only at no charge. The free lunch is due to the wonderful support
from the members during our raffles. As long as you all keep participating
in the raffles so well, we’ll be able to incorporate bonuses like this!
When the event is wrapped up at around 5pm, we’ll head back to the hotel for
people to relax and get cleaned up. Then at 6:30 we’ll head over to a nice
relaxing dinner at Giovanni’s Fine Northern Italian Restaurant. The food
there is second to none, and everything is home made. This is one of my
favorite restaurants in the whole world! The food is outstanding. This is
one dinner you won’t want to miss! We have a special group rate of
$30/person (including tax & tip) which includes:

1)       Appetizer: ½ Penne Pasta (Served in a pink Vodka Sauce)
2)       Salad: Mixed Baby Greens (Tossed with Balsamic Vinaigrette
dressing)
3)       Entrée: Your choice of:
a) Veal Sorentina (Sautéed Veal Scallopine topped with Prosciutto, Eggplant,
and fresh Mozzarella Cheese finished in a light red sauce)
b) Chicken Marsala (Boneless Breast of Chicken finished in a Mushroom and
Brown Sauce)
c) Scottish Salmon (Grilled Salmon served over a bed of Spinach finished in
a Mustard Sauce)
      4)    Desert: Tiramisu & Coffee or Tea

NOTICE: YOU NEED TO RESERVE YOUR SEAT(S) FOR DINNER EITHER BY MAILNG A CHECK
TO OUR CLUB TREASURER OR BY RESERVING ON THE WEBSITE BY 4/14!!! If you do
not make the reservation by 4/14, the price per seat will be $35 per person
at the door. Also, keep in mind that the restaurant only holds a certain
number of people. If it’s full, that’s it! So, don’t wait until it’s too
late!

After Dinner, we’ll head back to the Hotel to regroup and you can either go
to sleep, or hit the bar and night club. 

Sunday will be a caravan to Raceway Park Auto Show and swap meet in Old
Bridge, NJ where members can compete in the car show to win a trophy!

Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. Thank you, and see you
then!!!

---Evil Dan
DMA Activities Director


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http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 02:53:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Acceleration issue

This can be caused by a lot of things, from worn spark plugs, to
vacuum leaks, to a Control Pressure Regulator. If it has been a long
time since your last tune-up start with that and if that doesn't cure
the problem then you will have to look deeper but at least you have
some known, good parts to start with. Also check the base (intial)
timing and the vacuum advance and the mechanical advance.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" <dmcburn75_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> 
> I notice that SOMETIMES when I start my car from cold I have a lag in
> acceleration resembling a misfire. This only lasts for about 30
> seconds. I recently replaced the original fuel accumulator and about 2
> months ago I noticed a few grains of dirt in the fuel filler that more
> than likely made in into the tank despite my best efforts to clean it.
> Would this cold acceleration problem indicate I need to change my fuel
> filter? I'm thinking maybe some of this dirt and parts of the bad fuel
> accumulator diaphragm have made it into the filter. I know the car is
> hungrier for fuel when cold, so maybe this is a good place to start...
> Any thoughts? Thanks!
> 
> Dan
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 03:01:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Passenger side water leak

Make sure the drain for the A/C is not blocked. Since you say you are
leaving the car outdoors tree junk is probably getting in there and
blocking up the drain. You can access it by removing the plastic grill
in front of the windscreen and use a hose to suck as much of the gunk
out as you can. The other way to get there is to remove the fan motor
and go in that way. Do it both ways. You can also remove the front
right wheel and suck on the drain hose with a shop vac. You may have
to stick a wire in the hose to really clean it up. One of the
disadvantages to having to leave the car outside. If you see the RTV
is not sealing well you should remove it everywhere and redo it all
over the car. Make sure to do around the door seals in between the
inner and outer seals by the hinges. Check the hood stops and RTV them
too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My car is a daily driver and almost always parked outdoors, so it 
> has seen it's share of the elements in the 2 years I've had it. 
> Normally I have no problems with rain. However last week I found the 
> passenger floor flooded with water. I removed the carpeting and the 
> seat and have cleaned and dried them. I found 3 leaks that have 
> simulatenously sprung up in the same area. The first was the lower 
> bolt of the two near the "front recess panel area" and the second 
> was the bottom right corner of that "panel" right next to those two 
> bolts, as pictured on page 8 of Service Bulletin 33 concerning water 
> l








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 20:46:02 -0000
From: "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: K-Jetronic Fuel Injection

All,

Today I was looking around for banjo bolts for the DeLorean fuel
distributor, and ran acroos this page.  A very good read about our
fuel system.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fuel_injection/k_jetronic.shtml

Bernie









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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