From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 2:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3168

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: electrics and steering wheel
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

4. Re: electrics and steering wheel
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

6. no activity, just dead
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: Seller Beware!!
From: Jim <jpsenft_at_dml_verizon.net>

8. NCTS for sale
From: rick abarca <stangboy70us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. newbie tune-up question
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>

10. Re: A question about wheels...
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

12. Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

13. Attention Matt Spittle
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

15. Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

17. Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: newbie tune-up question
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. RE: newbie tune-up question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: electrics and steering wheel
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

21. Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

22. Re: Front Ride Height Intentions
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

23. Re: Warm Up regulator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

24. RE: Please Help - Previous Owner(s) Jury-Rigged Fuel Pump Circuit
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Seller Beware!!
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 05:07:47 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof


THE main reason for bringing the nose upwards on a Delorean,was because of a safety concern,as the impact zone on the nose of a Delorean is ONLY AND ONLY in the Black bumper/ strip zone on the front fascia,with the heightened springs it brought the Black rub strip area on the fascia in a level plane should it collide or impact into another vehicle,you can simply check this out by playing around with your Sunstar  Delorean models,if you put another model of the same size in the front of a Delorean model,in my case I used a 1978 Corvette Pace Car model,the black rub strip,or impact zone,with the front springs fully lowered,is about half way up on the impact zone (not very good),yet raising it(the nose on the DMC model) to what the factory raised it to, PUTS the impact zone(the black bumper area) square and flat to where it should be.
You have to remember the impact zone,on a Delorean was engineered ONLY in the black area of the front fascia,if impact occurs above the black strip(the headlight area or above)  the Delorean has almost ZERO impact resistance,meaning that all forces of a impact will be aimed at the passengers(along with the hood),the other problem that can happen on impact with the lowered suspension,if impact should occur above the impact zone what could possibly happen,seeing that the hood being hinged in front,and at a raised angle could become sort of a SS galatean,impacting with the passengers, that is one reason that the Nose of a Delorean was intentally or unintentionally made to Shear off, if a very hard impact should occur with a Delorean at least that is what happened with Vin # 5520(one of my ex.parts cars)that is the one that lost/broke a ball joint/ lower A arm on the Massachusetts Tpke.and went head on,at full highway speed, into a little  foreign car and killed one person and paralyzed the other.THE complete nose sheared off ,to within 12 inches of the front firewall/windshield,because the impact zone worked as it was engineered to work.)yet both doors opened perfect.
 From what I could sense,It was a  last minute engineering thing,much in the same sense as not using a SS frame,it was to costly to re- engineer the front impact zone to a much higher level of plain(higher up)so rather than do that,it was decided to raise the car(the nose) using taller springs,giving it the"dog sniffing the air" look,but engineered to take a impact in the black bumper/impact  zone.

Hope that explains it
CBL 






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I just measured my own car (100% original suspension), and it 
measured
> in at 17.5 inches from ground to the bottom of the flat black front
> bumper.  A full 1.5 inches more than the 16" as stated in your post
> (and this is obviously not taking into account any "sagging" the 
front
> suspension has done since it was built nearly 25 years ago).
> 
> 
> Eric Campbell
> Hickory, NC
> VIN 1776
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_> 
wrote:
> >
> > Hi All
> > 
> > It has always been quite a talking point on this side of 
the 'pond' 
> > too, a number of documents i have sourced clearly show the 
> > regulations in the US for bumper heights and damage caused by 
> > impacts to these at the time of the production of the DeLorean. 
This 
> > particular info is taken from:-
> >
>








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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 00:43:44 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up

 
 
A product called So-Dri.  Pretty much just kitty litter.  Only a  few bucks 
for a big 20 lb bag, nice to have in the garage just in case. I'm sure  there 
are other similar products out there.  You just spread it on, stomp  it in with 
your shoes or a broom, then sweep it up after a few minutes.   Massive spills 
may need inflatable barriers or something to keep the EPA  happy.  But most 
of us don't have to worry about that.
 
Andy
 
 
In a message dated 3/21/2006 10:59:28 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

Group,

Just wondering.  The other day I saw a gasoline  spill at a gas
station.  The attendant was notified.  She came  out and spreaded
something that looked like kitty litter on the mess.   

Suppose you spill over a can of motor oil (doh!), what do you use  to
clean the mess up?  Dog litter?  Paper towels don't seem to  work well.
Shop rags are  expensive.


Steve
VIN#04421





Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 08:56:42 +0000 (GMT)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: electrics and steering wheel

Hey Paul,
  Whilst driving behind you the other night, I noticed that you left tail light wasnt working, then it burst into life on the motorway (it actually looked pretty cool the way it came on). So maybe you want to take a look at the bulbs/circuit board.
   
  Sorry about that, forgot about it until I read the post.
   
  Thomas
  Vin #4087
  Belfast

Paul <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk> wrote:
  Hi,

I have noticed that when I apply the brake (when car is running or stopped
with key in ignition) the sidelights and a bulb in the binnacle come on too
(the brake lights still work though). 




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 10:30:21 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: electrics and steering wheel

Your taillight boards need cleaning, soldering or replacing.

Your steering is probably a spline or two out, but it's only possible to 
tell when driving along at speed in a strait line.

Martin

Paul wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I have noticed that when I apply the brake (when car is running or stopped
>with key in ignition) the sidelights and a bulb in the binnacle come on too
>(the brake lights still work though).  I realise that its prob a crossed
>wire somewhere but was wondering if it's something that has happened to
>anyone else to help me pinpoint the problem quicker.  I have not as yet had
>a chance to start diagnosing it as I only noticed last night.
>  
>






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 13:24:44 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up

Steve - Greetings from Tokyo!  Cat litter made with clay is a very 
good way of cleaning up oil spills.  You sprinkle it onto the spill, 
and let it soak up the oil for a few minutes.  Then, you sweep up 
the cat litter, and the place where the oil was spilled is usaually 
quite clean.  This material works for almost all liquid spills.  In 
an emergency, you can also soak up oil with dirt.  This works pretty 
well, although not quite as good as clay-based cat litter.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Group,
> 
> Just wondering.  The other day I saw a gasoline spill at a gas
> station.  The attendant was notified.  She came out and spreaded
> something that looked like kitty litter on the mess.  
> 
> Suppose you spill over a can of motor oil (doh!), what do you use 
to clean the mess up?  Dog litter?  Paper towels don't seem to work 
well.  Shop rags are expensive.










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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:27:19 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: no activity, just dead

I think I know where to look, I just wanted to run it by the group.
I started my D yesterday after about a week off and it started right up and
was warming up just a few seconds when it flat died. It hadn't even hit the
stage where it puts out maximum current. Lights, courtesies, ignition,
everything is flatlined.
I thought it was the battery, so I pulled it out and charged it. It looks
good but still same deadness.
So I'm thinking it's alternator connections... other cars have used starter
connections as the primary power but I think its the back of the alternator
for our little D's, right?


--
-Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 05:49:24 -0500
From: Jim <jpsenft_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Seller Beware!!

Yea,
Going on a lot, and with many marques....several friends in the Mercedes 
club have also been contacted.  What they did was get the "Cashiers 
Check", and frame it.  Makes a nice wall hanging, as most are done 
extremely well.  Both friends just told the guy that the difference they 
requested was on its way.  Only one called back to find out where it was 
(several weeks later).  When told the Cashiers check bounced, they hung 
up, end of transaction.  So if you want a nice souvenir of today's 
latest scams, go ahead and ask them to send you a check!!!
Jim
#5832

Scott wrote:

>Just thought I would post my latest encounter with a real pro scam 
>artist. 
>I have my car listed here for sale, and was contacted by a person 
>claiming the name Irvin Smith . Here is the short end of the story...
>He informed me of being from the UK and wanted to buy my car. 




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:20:36 -0800 (PST)
From: rick abarca <stangboy70us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: NCTS for sale

I have added pics of the tires under the photos
section.  Tires are in perfect condition (only 15k on
them, always garaged).  Contact me privately should
you be interested.  Thanks.

Rick

17160

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 15:06:43 -0000
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: newbie tune-up question

i'm putting my car back together now after being in my valley, and i
want to make sure i put the plug wires back on in the right order.

facing the car from the rear, the cylinders on the left starting from
those closest to the front of the vehicle are 4,5,6 and the cylinders
on the right starting from those closest to the front of the vehicle
are 1,2,3.  is this correct?

which way does the rotor spin?  since the firing order is 1,6,3,5,2,4
- would i want to attach the plug wires in that same order on the cap
while the rotor is aligned TDC?

very newbish questions i know - just don't want to screw anything up. =)

also, does anyone have a diagram for how the fuel lines should be
attached? (not those for the fuel injectors - i marked those well
enough when i removed them) i couldn't find a picture in the workshop
manual or parts manual that showed it very clearly.

bill
6976









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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:26:03 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A question about wheels...

I have seen plenty of pictures.  And a few in person.  NBewly powder 
coated wheels look great!  I'd love to have some.  Chrome looks very 
good as well, but not for me.  At least right now anyway. I could 
change my mind.  I've seen pictures of but never seen DMCH's wheels 
with the machined finish.  

I second that vendors please bring samples to DCS '06 this June.  I 
may end up buying a set.  Or it would help me decide if I want to just 
get mine refinished.

Matt
VIN: 2953
Frostburg, MD










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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:08:33 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated

My wheels were pealing and looking rough and I began looking around 
town for options.  I ended up going with a local company named 
Powdertech. I picked Powdertech because the have several trophy winning 
cars under their belts, they had the widest selection of coatings to 
choose from, and the price was $45 per wheel. I went with a grey 
sparkle coat - light silver with little specks of a shiny substance 
that shimmer and shine when the wheels spin. Now my wheels look great 
while the rest of the car is a work in progress.

They even have a chrome powdercoat that looks as good as a chrome dip 
and is blinding in the Arizona sun. Not recommended for rough cast 
surfaces, but that is true with regular powdercoat. The wheels get 
polished or machined first, then chromed.

Here is Powdertech's contact information, I do not think they have a 
web site.

Powdertech
901 W 1st Ave # 3
Mesa, 85210
(480) 964-6787

Good luck,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365 (a work in 
progress, but the wheels look great)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am considering replacing my chipped and brake-dust corroded wheels 
> with refinished wheels.  I love the look of the polished wheels, but 
> not sure how much more difficult they are to maintain versus 
> powdercoated wheels.  I know there's the issue of oxidation of 
exposed 
> alloy.  I suppose the polished wheels offered by Delorean vendors are 
> clear coated to prevent this.  I am interested in the groups' opinion 
> on this.  I have seen the cost for polished at about $200 per wheel, 
> plus core charge, and coated wheels for about $125 and core charge.  
> Chrome plated version by one vendor was too high for my blood at 
about 
> $1200 for the set.
>








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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 14:42:53 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Motor Oil Spill - Clean Up

Use oil dry.  You can get it at most auto parts stored.  Looks a 
lot like kitty litter.

--
Mike
-------------- Original message from "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Group, 
> 
> Just wondering. The other day I saw a gasoline spill at a gas 
> station. The attendant was notified. She came out and spreaded 
> something that looked like kitty litter on the mess. 




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 15:25:18 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Attention Matt Spittle

Please contact me off-list using something other than your "psu" email 
address (i..e. just go get a free one from Yahoo or Gmail). I, and 
others have been trying to contact you off-list and your school's sp_at_dml_m 
filter is too good. 

Dave Swingle swingle(at)dmcnews.com







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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 07:56:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof

Claude,
   
  I'm almost afraid to ask, but do you have any real proof here?? (note the "Documented Proof" in the subject line)  This is exactly the kind of speculation we're *not* looking for.
   
  Jake Kamphoefner
  1063
  

cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
  
THE main reason for bringing the nose upwards on a Delorean,was 
because of a safety concern,as the impact zone on the nose of a 
Delorean is ONLY AND ONLY in the Black bumper/ strip zone on the 
front fascia,with the heightened springs it brought the Black rub 
strip area on the fascia in a level plane should it collide or impact 
into another vehicle,you can simply check this out by playing around 
with your Sunstar Delorean models,if you put another model of the 
same size in the front of a Delorean model,in my case I used a 1978 
Corvette Pace Car model,the black rub strip,or impact zone,with the 
<snip>




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 16:41:57 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated

Thanks Ben,

Sounds like you got a great deal, but not sure if I want to ship my 
wheels from MA to AZ.  I am still wondering if anyone in the group 
has polished wheels and if they are tougher to maintain due to the 
exposed alloy (oxidizing issues??).  

Thanks,

Paul
vin 10944 (aren't most of our cars a "work in progress")


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My wheels were pealing and looking rough and I began looking 
around 
> town for options.  I ended up going with a local company named 
> Powdertech. I picked Powdertech because the have several trophy 
winning 
> cars under their belts, they had the widest selection of coatings 
to 
> choose from, and the price was $45 per wheel. I went with a grey 
> sparkle coat - light silver with little specks of a shiny 
substance 
> that shimmer and shine when the wheels spin. Now my wheels look 
great 
> while the rest of the car is a work in progress.




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 11:03:31 -0600
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Front Ride Height Intentions - Documented Proof



Claude isn't all wrong here. In the late seventies the Ford plant I worked 
in installed two perfectly level pads in our final area to measure a 
percentage of vehicle bumper heights each production shift per government 
regulations. We were building Crown Victoria's at the time. My job then had 
nothing to do with that particular area but I remember walking past those 
pads many times. The reasoning behind the regulation was to get bumpers on 
all vehicles to match up thereby reducing damage in low impact collisions. 
Remember the MG's of that era suddenly got ugly rubber bumpers and they sat 
several inches further off the ground than previous models.

Bruce Benson


> Claude,
>
>  I'm almost afraid to ask, but do you have any real proof here?? (note the 
> "Documented Proof" in the subject line)  This is exactly the kind of 
> speculation we're *not* looking for.
>
>  Jake Kamphoefner
>  1063





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:29:44 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated

Thought DMCH's machined wheels were clearcoated???

Matt
VIN: 2953 (Yes, always "work in progress")

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Ben,
> 
> Sounds like you got a great deal, but not sure if I want to ship my 
> wheels from MA to AZ.  I am still wondering if anyone in the group 
> has polished wheels and if they are tougher to maintain due to the 
> exposed alloy (oxidizing issues??).  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> vin 10944 (aren't most of our cars a "work in progress")









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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 17:48:36 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: newbie tune-up question



Bill Koenig wrote:

>very newbish questions i know - just don't want to screw anything up. =)
>  
>
Check out the side of the rocker covers - the cylinder numbers are 
written on them, and on the distributor cap too. The cap can only be 
fitted (properly) one way.

>also, does anyone have a diagram for how the fuel lines should be
>attached? 
>
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelhoses.htm

Any relation to Walter?

Martin





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:31:34 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: newbie tune-up question

Bill, Firing order is on top of the distributor cap and a cylinder match up
is on my web site under tune ups at the bottom of the page. The fuel outlet
diagram is on the technical part of the DML.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine-tuneup.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bill Koenig
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 9:07 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] newbie tune-up question

i'm putting my car back together now after being in my valley, and i
want to make sure i put the plug wires back on in the right order.

facing the car from the rear, the cylinders on the left starting from
those closest to the front of the vehicle are 4,5,6 and the cylinders
on the right starting from those closest to the front of the vehicle
are 1,2,3.  is this correct?






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:55:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: electrics and steering wheel

It is not correct procedure to center the steering wheel by removing
it and replacing it on the shaft. Other parts may not be centered and
by centering the wheel you might not have the same amount of turn on
each side. Generally, if the wheel is not centered you correct it with
the tie rod ends (assuming the steering wheel is in the right spot to
begin with). This is what is done in a correctly performed 4 wheel
alignment. On most cars the steering wheel is splined so it can only
go on in 1 position. Not  on Deloreans. That is why you have to mark
it's position so you can be sure you put it back right. As for your
crossed wire, about the only place the 2 systems have in common are
the taillight boards. Unplug them one at a time and see what happens.
Not a common, typical problem. Check that the correct bulbs are in the
tail light boards and are installed corrctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> I have noticed that when I apply the brake (when car is running or
stopped
> with key in ignition) the sidelights and a bulb in the binnacle come
on too
> (the brake lights still work though).  I realise that its prob a cr







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 19:52:17 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated

I just found a place about 20 minutes from me (Attleboro, MA) that 
will sandblast and powdercoat for $60 per rim.  I guess I can't beat 
that either.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Ben,
> 
> Sounds like you got a great deal, but not sure if I want to ship 
my 
> wheels from MA to AZ.  I am still wondering if anyone in the group 
> has polished wheels and if they are tougher to maintain due to the 
> exposed alloy (oxidizing issues??).  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> vin 10944 (aren't most of our cars a "work in progress")
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
> <captainhydrogen_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > My wheels were pealing and looking rough and I began looking 
> around 
> > town for options.  I ended up going with a local company named 
> > Powdertech. I picked Powdertech because the have several trophy 
> winning 
> > cars under their belts, they had the widest selection of 
coatings 
> to 
> > choose from, and the price was $45 per wheel. I went with a grey 
> > sparkle coat - light silver with little specks of a shiny 
> substance 
> > that shimmer and shine when the wheels spin. Now my wheels look 
> great 
> > while the rest of the car is a work in progress.
>










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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:34:42 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Front Ride Height Intentions

Front Ride Height Intentions 

Sorry I *should* have removed the "Documented Proof" part from the 
response line,
I have from the history I gathered from the reports from vin 5520,and 
how it crashed,and the end results,and examining the remains of the 
nose and black body, from 5520.
If you have ever seen a bare black body,and studied/looked at them 
and how the engineering was designed for impact front and rear(and 
side)you will see the weak link in the design that is in the nose 
section,if it is pitched too low,and the impact is not dead on the 
black rub strip area,where it was designed to take the frontal 
impact,there is nothing there to absorb the impact.And in fact can 
crush downward,losing it ability,to do it's engineered job,of 
absorbing the impact!!Since it is cantilevered.(the reason for the 
ribbing as explained below) The top half where 
the headlights sit is hollow,and useless in a impact,and could force 
the hood to move towards the interior/cowl.
If you look under the "skin" you will find a impact absorbing high 
density foam bumper followed by a cantilevered section of the black 
body where inside that is more HDF 
and filled with HDF,and beyond that is some metal 
ribbing to help keep the area secure in a impact,for a total of 
approx.one foot of HDF absorbing materials and metal ribbing,this and 
only this is the only area in the nose section that can take any kind 
of hard impact,if this area is pitched to low,it will lose some or 
possibly most of it's ability to protect the passengers from harm.
Now if you look at the back of a Delorean THE HDF impact bumper is 
Bolted HIGH and directly onto the frame,so that in a rear 
collision,the ONLY thing that can crush is the rear frame,something 
that the front of the Delorean does NOT have protection from,in a 
nutshell,what I am trying to say is that the front of a Delorean has 
little protection,except in the black strip zone,the frame is to low 
to the ground to afford much protection,(the major thing the frame 
does for collision purposes is tie in and make the combination very 
rigid)(for front and rear impact )in fact on vin 5520 the front part 
of the frame sustained very little damage,yet the nose was totally 
wiped into pieces(sheared totally off)and into a bunch of pieces,(the 
hood went flying away from the car)and again the cabin section stayed 
fully intact and the impact stopped at the windshield,as the roof T 
panel was NOT even distorted,and the doors opened just fine.Again if 
you reread what I wrote I DID NOT say that was what happened I said I 
suspected that might have been what could have happened,DMC decided 
for liability purposes to raise the nose,and NOT any goverment 
thing.But again, if you study the dynamics of how a Delorean nose 
crushes,you will see that it only makes COMMON sense to bring up the 
nose to offer better protection,in the same sense as the rear of the 
Delorean is protected with the HDF bumper at a higher stance. 

Hope that explaines it a little better 
CBL  









--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Claude,
>    
>   I'm almost afraid to ask, but do you have any real proof here?? 
(note the "Documented Proof" in the subject line)  This is exactly 
the kind of speculation we're *not* looking for.
>    
>   Jake Kamphoefner
>   1063
>   
> 
> cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_...> wrote:
>   
> THE main reason for bringing the nose upwards on a Delorean,was 
> because of a safety concern,as the impact zone on the nose of a 
> Delorean is ONLY AND ONLY in the Black bumper/ strip zone on the 
> front fascia,with the heightened springs it brought the Black rub 
> strip area on the fascia in a level plane should it collide or 
impact 
> into another vehicle,you can simply check this out by playing 
around 
> with your Sunstar Delorean models,if you put another model of the 
> same size in the front of a Delorean model,in my case I used a 1978 
> Corvette Pace Car model,the black rub strip,or impact zone,with the 
> <snip>
>









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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:58:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Warm Up regulator

If you know the accumulator is origional to the car it should be
replaced. It should also be replaced if you have the classic "Hard Hot
Start" symptoms.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "seanhagan" <seanhagan_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Assuming my tank was dirty (since cleaned) should I also replace the 
> 








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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 13:20:56 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Please Help - Previous Owner(s) Jury-Rigged Fuel Pump Circuit

Mike, Any auto store would have an inline fuse holder replacement. Solder
and crimp the wires good or you may burn it up also. Normally when this
happens there is a pump or fuel input problem that causes the pump to draw
more current, thus causing the problem.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


  

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
mike p
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 10:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Please Help - Previous Owner(s) Jury-Rigged Fuel Pump Circuit

Hello All, 
  Does anyone know how the 20amp Fuse No. 7, controlling the fuel pump can
be  by-passed to get the engine to start?  Are there any relays that can be
jumpered to bypass a destroyed Fuse position No.7 ?  I may have "disturbed"
a big sleeping problem  in my "car"!
  
  Here is my problem:   I went into the fuse box/wiring/relay area  behind
the passenger seat of my D to check the fuse for the cooling fans.   However
when I took the black plywood cover off the wiring area I noticed the
position for the 20amp Fuse No. 7, controlling the fuel pump, had had a
violent electric blow in the past.  I also noticed a loose wire with a
20amp fuse in the middle of it laying loose in the wiring and fuse box
area.  Not too concerned, I reseated the fuse 5 for the cooling fan
circuit, reconnected the battery, and went to start the car up again.   (The
car had been running no more than 5 minutes earlier.)  But when I  tried to







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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 20:01:49 -0000
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Seller Beware!!

Thanks Scott, and James for forwarding this to me also...

The same person has been contacting me for the purchase of my car.  
I have even talked to him on the phone, but he just wanted to 
confirm that I got his last email.  In my case the overage of the 
check was to be sent by me to the shipper that he had arranged.  

Lorraine
#1141


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <bk2d80s_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just thought I would post my latest encounter with a real pro scam 
> artist. 
> I have my car listed here for sale, and was contacted by a person 
> claiming the name Irvin Smith . Here is the short end of the 
story...





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