From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 6:57 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3175

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Wanted: Dammaged engine harness
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Gearbox lift
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: movement in the gearbox
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Cadillac with a DeLorean Northstar?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Front grill
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. RE: Re: movement in the gearbox
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

7. Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

8. Re: gearbox Lube (was movement)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Re: Front grill
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. DMA Spring Social - Reminder
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

13. Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

15. Re: Production date, hood grooves
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Re: Front grill
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: Re: Front grill
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>

18. question about passenger side under dash wiring
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

19. Re: Anyone got experience of fitting DMCH's arm rest caps?
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

20. Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness
From: Daniel Shane <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

21. Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:27:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness


I need the bulkhead connectors from an engine wiring harness to cut and splice in to a custom harness I am building.

Anyone got one they care to part with?  Maybe from a fire car?  or some other damage..


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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 14:33:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Gearbox lift

Your're right, it should not take 2 hands to get the knob up over the
shifter gate. Take the knob off and try some lubrication on the
shafts. If that doesn't help you will have to disassemble, clean,
lubricate, and reassemble the shifter mechanism. Not terribly
difficult. It could also be something is bent, you may just have to
straighten it out. Someone in the past could have forced (and bent)
the mechanism not knowing to *lift* the knob over the reverse gate. I
recently had to replace a pin for an owner. A P.O. broke the pin
trying to force the shifter past the reverse gate. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> 
> I took my car out over the weekend, first time in around 2 weeks and
noticed
> that lifting the gearlever up so I can engage reverse was really
stiff. It
> took both hand to lift it up, moving over to reverse was fine
though.  All
> the other gears are as per normal with their operation.
> 
> 
> I moved it up and down a few times to see if it would free-up a little
> better but didn't seem to improve too much.
> 
> 
> Does something need lubrication?  
> 
>  
> Thanks 
> 
>  
> Chris H.
> 
> Vin 5255 Oct 1981
> 
> 
> --
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 14:33:05 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: movement in the gearbox

I recently replaced mine. I put Valvoline 80-90 wt in it and 
shifting has improved drastically. I think that the oil in the 
tranny was original from the factory. Pumping a gallon of oil into 
that little hole is a blast. Ha ha....

Nathan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> What type of gearbox oil can anyone recommend?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paul
> #2493





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:43:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cadillac with a DeLorean Northstar?

Based on the location (Ohio), I am going to guess they
are selling the trunk lid from a Cadillac that has the
"DeLorean" dealer sticker on it..

Remember, John's bother had a Caddy dealership in
Ohio.


--- coreysmoo <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Check out this link.  What does this mean?
> 
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-Cadillac-Seville-STS-Northstar-DeLorean-Trunk-lid





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 15:11:57 -0000
From: "Eric" <hollywood2311_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Front grill

Could you not just remove them from the car and paint them in flat
black?  

Eric C
VIN 1776

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> My front grill (where the DMC logo attaches) seems faded compared to 
> other deloreans. Is it possible to re dye it? For that matter is it 
> possible to re dye other exterior parts like the vents on the rear 
> quarter panels and rear view mirrors?
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 07:19:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Re: movement in the gearbox

 
   
  I use a Valvoline full sythentic 75W-90.  I highly recommend a sythentic oil for the manual tranny as it seems to help smooth shifting (especially into second gear) on those cold mornings.
   
  One note of caution: if the transmission isn't sealed well, the synthetic will probably leak a little.
   
  Jake Kamphoefner
  1063
  

Paul <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk> wrote:
  What type of gearbox oil can anyone recommend?

Thanks.

Paul
#2493






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 08:24:39 -0800
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves

My Car (VIN 07181) is listed and registered as an '81.  It has no grooves
nor logo emblem on the hood.  Is it an anomaly or was it not supposed to
have those?

I noticed a small coolant leak the other day.  Coolant accumulated on the
left side of the firewall, above the radiator pipe and further to center.
After some investigation, the pipe and fittings are completely tight and
dry.  It appears to be coming from around the heater tubes at or near the
heater valve at the front of the engine.  What a pain in the rear trying to
get to those.  I expect I'll have to remove the hood, as I did when I
replaced the plug wires and rotor, but is there any trick you can suggest to
use to gain access to these parts for inspection and replacement?

Also, if I'm inspecting my TABs for wear, what would I expect to see if they
need changing?  Are the common problem bolts the ones at the frame or the
ones at the axel.  I assume (uh oh) it's the axel bolts, yes?

Anybody nearby La Center, WA (just above Portland) would be welcome to drop
by and point things out to me.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
7181




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 17:09:53 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: gearbox Lube (was movement)

Just a data point - if you have a slightly leaky transmission, it 
will be a bit more leaky with the Valvoline Synth, and even MORE 
leaky with the RedLine 75W90NS. Shifts nice though. 

BTW - Do NOT use Redline MTL in it - this is a differential AND a 
gearbox, and the differential is the tougher application. MTL is not 
thick enough for the differential. 

Also do not use RedLine 75W90(without the NS). Redline's naming 
convention is backwards, NS = "Not for Non-Slip" i.e. it is for open 
difs like we have. If you use the straight 75W90 it contains the 
NonSlip additives which supposedly will make the gear syncros perform 
strangely.

If you want further confirmation on this, call RedLine's engineering 
department and they will make the same recommendation. 

Dave S.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
>  
>    
>   I use a Valvoline full sythentic 75W-90.  I highly recommend a 
sythentic oil for the manual tranny as it seems to help smooth 
shifting (especially into second gear) on those cold mornings.
>    
>   One note of caution: if the transmission isn't sealed well, the 
synthetic will probably leak a little.
>    
>   Jake Kamphoefner
>   1063
>   
> 
> Paul <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>   What type of gearbox oil can anyone recommend?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paul
> #2493
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 09:12:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves

Are you a member of PNDC? If you are we're going to have a tech session in Forest Grove on April 15. A lot of your questions could be answered there. Get to meet some fellow owners too.
   
  Chris
  06301

Gekko West Coast Base <gekko_at_dml_flex.com> wrote: 
  My Car (VIN 07181) is listed and registered as an '81. It has no grooves
nor logo emblem on the hood. Is it an anomaly or was it not supposed to
have those?

I noticed a small coolant leak the other day. Coolant accumulated on the
left side of the firewall, above the radiator pipe and further to center.
After some investigation, the pipe and fittings are completely tight and
dry. It appears to be coming from around the heater tubes at or near the
heater valve at the front of the engine. What a pain in the rear trying to
get to those. I expect I'll have to remove the hood, as I did when I
replaced the plug wires and rotor, but is there any trick you can suggest to
use to gain access to these parts for inspection and replacement?

Also, if I'm inspecting my TABs for wear, what would I expect to see if they
need changing? Are the common problem bolts the ones at the frame or the
ones at the axel. I assume (uh oh) it's the axel bolts, yes?

Anybody nearby La Center, WA (just above Portland) would be welcome to drop
by and point things out to me.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
7181




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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 17:44:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves

You should consider replacing ALL of the hoses if any are leaking.
Chances are many are origional, especially the ones that are hard to
reach like the heater hoses and the ones on the back of the water
pump. There is no easy way to get to the hoses behind the water pump.
The general advice is to tear the top of the motor off and just
replace the water pump, the hoses, and all the seals and gaskets,
vacuum hoses, belts, idler pulley bearings, spark plugs, and ignition
wires while you are in there. You may also have to replace the heater
valve if it is stuck and/or leaking. Most of the vendors have what
they call their "Master Cooling System Kit" with all the parts you
will  need. Removing the engine cover does improve the access.
 As for the hood and emblem, ther is no way to know, when cars went
through the QAC centers parts were changed with no regard as to vin's,
running production changes, correctness, etc. Hoods with flaps and
grooves were in short supply, being no longer produced, so if a car
had a damaged hood it was replaced with what was available, the flat
hood being the current part. The emblem couild have been removed or
just never installed. It is also possible a P. O. had to replace a
damaged hood and got the flat hood.
 Current wisdom is if you have any concerns about your TAB's then they
should be replaced. Cheap insurance. If the ones in the car are loose
or bent then it is a no-brainer. The TAB's are the bolts (one each on
each trailing arm) that attach the front end of the rear trailing arm
to the frame through a bushing. You may have to remove the aluminum
shields to get a good view.
 You also need to determine if the car had all of the recalls done and
you should discuss with your favorite vendor about getting the "relay
upgrade kit". Make sure all the fuses are the correct size for each
position.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My Car (VIN 07181) is listed and registered as an '81.  It has no
grooves
> nor logo emblem on the hood.  Is it an anomaly or was it not supposed to
> have those?
> 
> I noticed a small coolant leak the other day.  Coolant accumulated
on the
> left side of the firewall, above the radiator pipe and further to
center.
> After some investigation, the pipe and fittings are completely tight and
> dry.  It appears to be coming from around the heater tubes at or
near the
> heater valve at the front of the engine.  What a pain in the rear
trying to
> get to those.  I expect I'll have to remove the hood, as I did when I
> replaced the plug wires and rotor, but is there any trick you can
suggest to
> use to gain access to these parts for inspection and replacement?
> 
> Also, if I'm inspecting my TABs for wear, what would I expect to see
if they
> need changing?  Are the common problem bolts the ones at the frame
or the
> ones at the axel.  I assume (uh oh) it's the axel bolts, yes?
> 
> Anybody nearby La Center, WA (just above Portland) would be welcome
to drop
> by and point things out to me.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Craig Werner
> 7181
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 09:27:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Front grill

No and Yes.
Not dye but paint.
Krylon Semi-Flat Back is the spray paint you want to match the black bits on the
car.

(Be sure to either mask off or remove the DMC logo when painting your grill.)

Shannon Y
16506

----------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 04:57:50 -0000
   From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Front grill

My front grill (where the DMC logo attaches) seems faded compared to 
other deloreans. Is it possible to re dye it? For that matter is it 
possible to re dye other exterior parts like the vents on the rear 
quarter panels and rear view mirrors?

Nathan
2277

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 13:17:36 -0500
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: DMA Spring Social - Reminder

REMINDER:   The DMA spring social is rapidly approaching!  If you plan to
attend, we need to have a headcount ASAP for Saturday night's dinner by
having you register for the event.  Dinner is $30 per person if you register
before 4/14.  After that date, it will be $35 per person.

Event details/registration can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/social06.htm
 
We are still looking for donations for raffle Items.  If you are interested
in donating items, please send an e-mail to DMA-Officers(at)yahoogroups.com
 
Thank You
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 18:08:15 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness

Marc,

Have you checked with your favorite DeLorean vendor? You may find that
they may have some lying around that they would be willing to part
with. Most of us are notorious "savers" of anything that we think
might be useful someday - perhaps if you don't hear from anyone on the
list, you could try that route.

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 
> I need the bulkhead connectors from an engine wiring
> harness to cut and splice in to a custom harness I am
> building.
> 
> Anyone got one they care to part with?  Maybe from a
> fire car?  or some other damage..
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 00:54:36 -0500
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness

I too would like to get a few of the connectors from an 
engine harness... the blue plug and the plug for the idle 
speed motor to be exact. I want to splice them in back in 
the bundle so I need a length of wire still attached to it 
as well.

regards,

Michael
vin 6067... hey mark was series vins to share harness 
parts?


On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 06:27:25 -0800 (PST)
  Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I need the bulkhead connectors from an engine wiring
>harness to cut and splice in to a custom harness I am
>building.
>
>Anyone got one they care to part with?  Maybe from a
>fire car?  or some other damage..
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection 
>around 
>http://mail.yahoo.com 
>
>
>
>
>

>To address comments privately to the moderating team, 
>please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale 
>see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 18:13:17 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Production date, hood grooves

Theoretically, it should have a hood with lines and no flap. The hoods
officially changed to all flat hoods 19 cars after yours, but it would
be interesting to know a couple of things:

- the hoods on the cars 7182-7199, what are they?

- any indications of previous accident damage?

It's possible that the hood was damaged at the factory and then
swapped out with one of the new ones before it was shipped, or it
could have been done at the QAC, too. Another DeLorean mystery.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My Car (VIN 07181) is listed and registered as an '81.  It has no
grooves
> nor logo emblem on the hood.  Is it an anomaly or was it not supposed to
> have those?
(SNIP)
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Craig Werner
> 7181
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 18:11:42 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Front grill

There is no need to dye the grill, or any of the black parts of the exterior for that 
matter.

I just painted my grill yesterday.  I also repainted most of the exterior black parts a 
few months back.  Just go to any automotive or paint store, and buy a spray can of 
black and a spray can of primer.  Be sure to sand the part completely smooth and 
clean it very well before applying the primer.  It is also a good idea the warm up 
anything that you intend to spray with a heat lamp before application.  This helps the 
primer and paint cure better.  Once the primer is on, let it dry (best with that heat 
lamp) and then sand it smooth with a very fine grit of sand paper to remove any dust 
or other impurities that got caught in the primer.  Wipe it clean again, re-heat it, and 
then apply the paint.  Be careful, otherwise the paint will drip and you will have to do 
it all over again.  When you are done, if you want, you can apply a clear coat if you 
want a glossy look and some added protection.  I, personally, opted for a semi-gloss 
black paint.  I love the look of it.  I used Krylon spray paint that I got at an automotive 
store, and it looks great.

Hope this helps.  It's really not as difficult of a proccess as it sounds.  If you are just 
doing the grill, it should just take a couple hours (And most of that time is waiting for 
it to dry.)  You can just pull the grill off, so there's no need to tape anything off, so 
that will save time too.

If you have any further questions, or need me to go deeper into detail about anything, 
shoot me an e-mail.

Corey
2423
coreysmoo[at]hotmail.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My front grill (where the DMC logo attaches) seems faded compared to 
> other deloreans. Is it possible to re dye it? For that matter is it 
> possible to re dye other exterior parts like the vents on the rear 
> quarter panels and rear view mirrors?
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 14:06:06 -0500
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Front grill

What ever is black on the exterior can be masked with masking tape  
and covered with newspaper for the over spray.  Use Krylon #1613 Semi- 
Black.   Since my car is driven daily, I have done this to my car at  
least three times in the last ten year of ownership as to get rid of  
the fading and the staining in the many areas and parts that are black.

It will require about four to five cans and a two days to do  
everything black that you see on the exterior.  It will require two  
days as to allow the adjacent areas to be completely dry before they  
are to be masked and sprayed.  You can spray all the parts such as  
the front grill, two mirror housings, two vent windows trim, front  
and rear bumpers, all of the thin side trim around the car, air scoop  
and the screen, the vents behind the windows, front windshield trims,  
front vent screen under the wiper, wiper arm (if needed), side ground  
effect panels, rear louver, engine cover, side panels by engine cover  
and etc....

Mask all the areas with care and when spraying, just be patience as  
to allow the paint to "flash over" as not to "over spray" as to  
create "drips and runs" or the "under spraying" for the "lack" of  
paint in creating "dry patches" on the larger areas..... If the  
spraying is done correctly, the result will make your DeLorean look  
like new.

Anyway, if you have reluctance about your spraying abilities, just  
come to NYC and the many graffiti artists can spray your car as they  
do with the walls of my many properties.... hahahahaha......

  Kayo Ong

#5508

Lic. 9D NY



On Mar 27, 2006, at 10:11 AM, Eric wrote:
> Could you not just remove them from the car and paint them in flat
> black?
>
> Eric C
> VIN 1776
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
> wrote:
>>
>> My front grill (where the DMC logo attaches) seems faded compared to
>> other deloreans. Is it possible to re dye it? For that matter is it
>> possible to re dye other exterior parts like the vents on the rear
>> quarter panels and rear view mirrors?
>>
>> Nathan
>> 2277
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 20:49:14 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: question about passenger side under dash wiring

Hi All!
   
  I have been sorting out my wiring under the dash on the passenger 
side...it had been heavily modified for an alarm but i think i have 
almost got it back to stock!
   
  My main worry now is this big black wire coming out of the 
loom...i assume it is an earth?  What is it for? See photo!
   
  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1678.jpg
   
  There is then this with 2 black wires bolted to the under side of 
the dash.  Both wires are cut.  Is this a stock earth or is this 
where the single black wire from the previous picture should be 
attached.
   
   http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1668.jpg

  I am confused...any help appreciated!#
   
  many thanks
   
  Craig DOC 20
  VIN 16723










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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 20:50:51 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone got experience of fitting DMCH's arm rest caps?


Hi all!
   
  Just got in from working on the beast!  I attempted to fit the 
drivers door cap after the advice i got on the DOC Forum and on the 
DML it was clear...the caps need to be cut for a late vin car like 
mine!
   
  Cutting it was easier than i thought, i used a stanley knive and 
just shaved a bit off at a time.  I used some super strong adeshive 
and the results you can see here!
  #
  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1698.jpg
   
  and here
   
  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1697.jpg
   
  Not perfect but i am pretty pleased and it looks a million times 
better than before with all the fraying black bits...!
   
  Take Care
   
  Craig VIn 16723
  DOC 20









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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 22:09:54 +0100
From: Daniel Shane <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dammaged engine harness

Marc,

We have them new if you want some.

Www.delorean.co.uk go to parts / electrical and scroll down to almost the
bottom of the page.  There called Rist connectors.  They come with all the
pins to connect.

Dan
DMC Ltd.

On 27/3/06 15:27, "Marc Levy" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> I need the bulkhead connectors from an engine wiring
> harness to cut and splice in to a custom harness I am
> building.
> 
> Anyone got one they care to part with?  Maybe from a
> fire car?  or some other damage..




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 22:22:28 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Production date, TABs, coolant leak and hood grooves

I just addressed both of these issues you mentioned on my car.

I replaced ALL of the hoses on my car including the entire heater 
circuit. To reach the heater control valve and related hoses I put 
the car on jack stands on approached some of them from under the 
car. The only one that was a total pain in the a$$ was the hose that 
connects to the return pipe under the manifold. It took a lot of 
WD40 and coaxing. I would say that most likely it is your heater 
control valve that is leaking, mine was along with about 4 other 
hoses which prompted me to replace all of the 25 year old hoses. 

The TABs are the bolts that connect the trailing arms to the frame. 
The car needs to be on jack stands (or the rear wheels need to be 
suspended) to replace them. Once the wheels are raised you can 
loosen the bolts and spin them with a wrench. Observe the trailing 
arm while doing so and if it moves up and down the bolt is bent and 
should be replaced. Replacement is easy of you have a 5 speed and do 
not live in the rust belt. Just be sure to count the alignment shims 
before removing the bolts and have a alignment done when you are 
finished. Oh, and you need to torque the bolts to 55lbs WITH the 
weight of the car on the suspension. I simply backed onto some rams 
to tighten the bolts. 

All this said, there are a lot of people with more experience and 
ability than I who lurk this group, they will undoubtedly chime in. 
Also check the archives for more info. Have fun!

Nathan
2277




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