From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3180

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: New server for DMC Maryland
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

2. RE: New server for DMC Maryland
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: transmission seals
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. RE: transmission seals
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

6. Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Re: Original BTTF D sold?
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk

8. Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: Euro Plate holders
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Raptor alarm
From: "firedude38" <FireDude38_at_dml_msn.com>

11. Additional DCS Show Information
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Windshield Cracked.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Re: Original BTTF D sold?
From: Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

15. front licence plate holder
From: "Guillaume Morel" <hoplos_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Added Bonus for Show Registration.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Manual Gearbox Fluid Change
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. RE: Re: movement in the gearbox
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Engine Compartment Fiberglass
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

20. Re: Windshield Cracked.
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

21. Looking for connection in Relay Compartment
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

22. Modified wiring - please help!
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

23. Re: Windshield Cracked.
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. RE: Windshield Cracked.
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

25. Re: front licence plate holder
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 21:43:44 -0500
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: New server for DMC Maryland

If a Delorean group needs webspace contact me off list. I have server space available that can be used at no charge for a Delorean group.

Steve
#2700





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 19:03:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck McKnight <gullwingdoors_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: New server for DMC Maryland

Hmm, thanks for the info.  I'll look into that a little more.

As for the code, several other people have allready sent it to me, but thanks anyway.

Chuck

IN2TIME <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com> wrote: Chuck - I read the fine print - extract follows:




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 03:02:52 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: transmission seals

Do you mean the axle seals? Did you put a speedi-sleeve on the flanges? 
(Hi Mark V). They are usually pretty rough and rusty, they will leak right thru a new seal. 

Pulling the seal will definitely tear it up. The level of the oil
**should** be level with the drain plug. So, yes, level is above the axle port. 

Dave Swingle



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This may seam like a dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway. I 
> just finished replacing my clutch and all the components that go with 
> it. I also replaced my transmission seals, filled the trans back up 
> and put it back in. Well, it appears one of the new seals must have 
> not been set correctly, because I noticed a little leak. Grrrrr.
> 
> So here's the question, I'm going to replace the seal one more time. 
> I'll have to order a new one since pulling it out will probably tear 
> it up. Is the trans fluid level under the seal? I want to avoid 
> draining the trans if possible.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pat
>








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 21:27:46 -0600
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: transmission seals

Sometimes replacing just the seals is not enough. The design of the seal is such that it can and will actually hold water against the flange resulting in corrosion and pitting. If the sleeve has been corroded like that there is a better than even chance it will leak even with a new seal. It is a good idea to sleeve the flanges when replacing the seals to prevent this. The added thickness of the sleeve also helps provide a tighter seal.

Did you check the condition of the flanges when you replaced the seals? If yes, what did they look like?

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] transmission seals
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 03:53:55 -0000
>
>This may seam like a dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway. I just 
>finished replacing my clutch and all the components that go with it. I 
>also replaced my transmission seals, filled the trans back up and put 
>it back in. Well, it appears one of the new seals must have not been 
>set correctly, because I noticed a little leak. Grrrrr.
>




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 04:06:34 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Polished wheels vs. powder coated

Hi there, I am sorry; I noticed the typo in my last post. My rims are Powder coated and not powered coated! What the hell. I swear when I type on this forum or my mind is playing tricks with me, the letters do not react as quickly as my typing. 
 I used a company called "Alloy Wheel Specialist. www.awrsm.com in Troy Michigan. I am not sure how many Powder Coating specialists are out there; I believe I read in an earlier post about the gas release within the rims after the painting process. This is true, even on new cars there may be witness areas of tiny gas bubbles in the paint. 
Bring this up, so the person doing the painting takes his or her time. 
You may see this on your finished wheel when looking up close. If you have a few zits here and there, then they should be acceptable. The paint on my original finish was very thin. I believe the factory spent a half a second painting them. This new finish is thick. You do not see the porosity on the rims anymore. It's awesome and so easy to clean. I think they bake the rims at like 250 degrees then electro statically apply the finish. 
I was very concerned first of all to disrupt the original appearance. 
It is cheaper to restore to factory finish; but that didn't interest me. I was never overly attracted to the DeLorean Rim appearance and 
finish from day one. I always loved the style.   I wanted something 
not too flashy or too dull. I wanted the finish to bring out the Black Moldings on the DeLorean; but not deflect attention from the stainless. 
I am very comfortable with the way they came out; I had hoped to have a bit more Dark tones to it. I am not sure if you are familiar or not with the BMW M3 wheels. They have a smoke Chrome look. That's what I was after. The color I have now is apparently nice enough that I actually receive compliments on them from unknowns. No one ever remarks at how nice the rims looked stock, attention was always the car overall. Its nice to have something other than the Stainless finish and remarkable body design stand out. 
My Wheels were stripped, dipped in some solution and returned to the original casting prior to paint. A very High Gloss Black finish was applied. In fact when you turn my wheels around, they are black. The next process was the application of the Hyper Silver. New Porsche & Mercedes cars use the same process; but substitute Black and use White paint as a base.

Good Luck,
Byron

By the way, I appreciate the comments.







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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 21:28:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft

Shannon,
  
  I have the wings a loft as well and was having the problem you  described with my driver's   side door.  the solution -  Rob Grady adjusted my door latch mechanism along with the striker pins  to allow my door to "pop" open .  One thing that might also help,  is your door hanging up on your inner door seals.  I have heard  that you can used a lightweight silicon based lubricant to allow the  doors to slide past the seals, so that they open with less resistance.
  
  -Chris
  DMC 6453

birdwell77095 <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net> wrote:  I have installed the Wings-A-Loft on my car which I really like. If I try to open the car remotely after a period of time, say overnight, there doesn't seem to be enough strength in the struts and torsion bar to push open the door. If I open the door and then close it, the doors will open fine when I push the remote button. Do struts loose their compression after a period of time and does opening and closing the doors recompress the tension (or whatever) in the struts? Any other Wings-A-Loft users have the same problem and what is the solution? I don't want to tighten the torsion bar any. The doors open fully and don't droop.

Shannon
VIN 16113








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links



 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 09:04:18 +0200 (CEST)
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: Re: Re: Original BTTF D sold?


> Actually it apparently has a crate engine that was removed from one of 
> the cars used by universal, never run. Certainly looked/sounded new when 
> I got it started

> 
> >It has no bttf kit on it and was in no way offered as the car from 
> >bttf.

Not quite true, Universal asked a UK based DeLorean parts "vendor" at the time, called Top Gun, for a car to use for publicity in the UK for the release of the 3rd film. They put a BTTF car togther with parts they had, they had a rolling chassis, underbody and panels etc. They removed the engine from the rolling chassis as it would not be needed. This engine ended up with the DOC UK club treasurer who sold parts off it thru the years, in fact there are a few bits on my car :), and he was left with the block etc. When Andy Snell was restoring the 'Explodaview' car he purchased the rest of the engine which he rebuilt to go into his car. The BTTF publicity car can now been seen at the 'Cars of the Stars' museum which is located Cumbria, UK.

http://members.aol.com/cotsmm/cots3_3.html 
http://tinyurl.com/owfwd

Regards

Chris
UK DOC #4





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 10:49:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft

The struts do no work at all at the initial "open". Usually problems 
like this relate to the inner door seals grabbing at the door. A good 
application of solicone spray grease on the seals will cure this problem 
in the short term. My own DeLorean's doors are too tight a fit to work 
with a remote door opener.

Martin
#1458 (very tight)
#4426 (spot on)

birdwell77095 wrote:

>I have installed the Wings-A-Loft on my car which I really like. If I 
>try to open the car remotely after a period of time, say overnight, 
>there doesn't seem to be enough strength in the struts and torsion bar 
>to push open the door. If I open the door and then close it, the doors 
>will open fine when I push the remote button. Do struts loose their 
>compression after a period of time and does opening and closing the 
>doors recompress the tension (or whatever) in the struts? Any other 
>Wings-A-Loft users have the same problem and what is the solution? I 
>don't want to tighten the torsion bar any. The doors open fully and 
>don't droop.
>
>Shannon
>VIN 16113
>  
>






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 11:25:55 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Euro Plate holders

It was me, 

You can e-mail me off list if you like.

James_rg(at)hotmail.com

or visit www.newoldbits.com

Thanks


James RG


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean17" <delorean17_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Greetings, First time back to the DML in a long time.  Anyway, I 
> remember a guy selling stainless steel rear europlate holders on 
ebay 
> a while back.  Does anyone know where I can obtain one of these?  
I 
> think he had a website but I can't seem to find it.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave Phelps
> 6286
>








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 13:56:41 -0000
From: "firedude38" <FireDude38_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Raptor alarm

I own Vin 05211 with the Stage2 engine.  The car was refurbished at 
DMC Houston in April 2001.  During the refrub, they installed a Raptor 
alarm, model VS9400.

Does anyone also have this alarm?  I really need a copy of the 
installation manual.  If anyone has this manual, please let me know.  
I will pay shipping cost.

Any help would be appreciated.

FireDude38







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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 07:57:24 EST
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Additional DCS Show Information

WE have added one more guest to the list for DCS 2006. It is Bill  Collins.
Bill worked on the development of the Prototype and will be there with Tony  
to discuss what went into the making of the Prototypes and how the car 
developed  from there.
If you have never seen the prototype this will be a very interesting topic  
for you at the show.
 
Bill will bring with him some slides of the development (Yes actual  slides) 
So here is history itself. 
 
We also have been going through a ton of documents and you can preview some  
of them at the DCS web site.  We have over 5000 sheets on various subjects  
that we are working on for the show.
 
_www.deloreancarshow.com_ (http://www.deloreancarshow.com) 
 
We are pretty full of guests and very rare DeLrorean Memorabilia.
 
Has anyone seen the shovel from the groundbreaking 
Well Dixon will be bringing his.  He is one of the groundbreaking  crew who 
received a shovel and dug the first shovels full at  the groundbreaking.
 
This and much much more but you have to register to see it.
 
Room registration is picking up again.
 
Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 19:29:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Cracked.

Anybody know why our windshields crack if the mirror's
glued directly to them when so many other windshields
are fine?  Thinner/different glass?  The very flat
design?  (Do similar shaped ones like Lotus require
the tape-type installs?)

Just curious,

Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 09:52:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft

Shannon,
Similar thing happens to me. It may be your inner rubber door seals. On colder
days my doors want to stick when launching. On warmer days they shoot right up.
When colder they don't open as fast and the actuator releases it's hold and gets
hung up on the door latch. On one of my friend's car, his door seals are a bit
thicker than mine and one area is bent inward making more pressure between the
fiberglass pontoon and the stainless on the door. We both lube up our door seals
with Lexol or 2001 to help aid in launching. Give your rubber seals a once over
to check for binding and try a little lubrication.

Before ruling out your gas strut give your torsion bar a little "hang test". Per
Grady's instructions... if you remove your gas strut and let your door hang it
should be 2 to 6 inches away from being closed. Be careful when removing the
strut. Prop open the door with a 2x4 or have someone help you as the door is
extremely heavy without the gas strut in place. If your doors hang in that 2-6
inches and your seals are not hanging up the launching I'd look at the gas struts
next.

Shannon Y
16506
--------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 20:35:48 -0000
   From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft

I have installed the Wings-A-Loft on my car which I really like. If I 
try to open the car remotely after a period of time, say overnight, 
there doesn't seem to be enough strength in the struts and torsion bar 
to push open the door. If I open the door and then close it, the doors 
will open fine when I push the remote button. Do struts loose their 
compression after a period of time and does opening and closing the 
doors recompress the tension (or whatever) in the struts? Any other 
Wings-A-Loft users have the same problem and what is the solution? I 
don't want to tighten the torsion bar any. The doors open fully and 
don't droop.

Shannon
VIN 16113

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 19:23:58 +0100
From: Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Original BTTF D sold?

How is an engine "Back to the future kit"???

I mean, did we see the engine in bttf, no, so how the heck is it a  
bttf car then??? because 10 years ago it had the bttf gear on it - it  
was completely restored to factory condition and is an amazing car  
now.  Does that mean that all right hand drive conversion cars can be  
sold as left hand drive cars then???

The whole point of this was that they made out he had bought the car  
FROM THE FILM in the article, it wasnt in any of the films and has NO  
BITS FROM THE MOVIE CAR ON IT, so it has not got anything other than  
the name in common with the film.

thats the only point I was making.

Alistair.




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 20:29:50 +0200
From: "Guillaume Morel" <hoplos_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: front licence plate holder

Dear all,

I'm looking for a wide (EU format) licence plate holder for my front plate.
I don't want to make holes in the car, so I found one which prevents from
this at SpecialTauto
(
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/stainless-steel-license-pla.jpg
)

I ordered it, asked for Paypal payment, got an email without the freight
costs... so I've asked for the total price and paypal account, I've been
asking several times for more than 1 week by email and never got a single
reply.
Is this website closed? Do you know where I can get this item?

thank you,

Guillaume Morel
www.guillaumemorel.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 13:52:42 -0500
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Added Bonus for Show Registration.

We have new designed pins just for the DCS 2006 show
Unlike the generic ones I made before these are for DCS 2006 and are dated
They are a bit larger than the last ones we made.
 
Usually we give out one per Registration (not one per person)
 
For those of you that have signed up already and for those of you that sign up before May 1st  I will give one pin for each person that registers.
After that its one per registration and extras will be avail at $3.00 each until they are gone
 
We also have 200 25th anniversary pins that will be for sale.
We have not determined the price yet.
 
These will only be available at the show.
 
Ken
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 19:35:57 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Gearbox Fluid Change

The Amsoil oil filter is--  AMS 42.    Perfect fit for the Delorean.  Drive 
Stainless  (& well lubed)  Robert  VIN 6924



Amsoil has a filter listing for the Delorean. Just looked it up & got it.
I'm not at home right now so can't check my records for the exact number,
but I can later. There is also a Delorean listing for the Amsoil air filter.
        Drive Stainless   Robert  VIN 6924


From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Manual Gearbox Fluid Change
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 21:11:31 EST



Robert -

Which oil filter did you use to cross reference with?  Just in case  you
don't know, the Purflux filter is probably just as good as the Amsoil filter
   (w/o
the synthetic media).  In fact in oil and lube circles, Purflux is  well
known as one of the best filters manufacturers out there.  Just  wondering
which
filter you xref'd from.



Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 19:43:58 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: movement in the gearbox

5 mo. ago I drained the tranny & replaced the oil with Amsoil "Severe Gear" 
oil  75W-80.   Plan to eventually replace the tranny oil & differential oil 
in my 1938 Buick with the same oil.    Drive Stainless  Robert  VIN 6924


From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: movement in the gearbox
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 09:50:03 +0100

What type of gearbox oil can anyone recommend?

Thanks.

Paul
#2493

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
David Teitelbaum
Sent: 27 March 2006 03:50
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: movement in the gearbox

That much movement is too much. Check out the rubber bushings on the
linkage where the bolts connect them and the pivot bolt if it is too
loose. Check the whole linkage system for any loose or worn parts.
Check the level of the lubricant in the transmission. Some owners
claim changing to synthetic gear lube solves the cold morning shifting
problems.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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Yahoo! Groups Links










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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 14:47:15 -0500
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Engine Compartment Fiberglass

List:

I have everything out of my engine compartment and both my rear quarter panels off and I can't help but notice how bad the fiberglass looks.  So I'm wondering what is the best option for refinishing it.  I think paint might be my only option as it looks like the factory only put a gel coat on the pontoons and not inside the engine compartment.  So a fiberglass restorer would not be able to do the whole area.  Does anyone have experience with painting bare fiberglass with no gel coat (engine bay) and fiberglass that does have a gel coat (pontoons)?  What kind of preparation is necessary?  Primers, sanding, types of paint, cleaning, etc.  I only plan to do this once so doing it right the first time is a must.

Thanks!

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 20:19:50 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Cracked.

It was my understanding form an article I read a while back that it is
caused by improper glue being used. From what I remember glues like
crazy glue and super glue will expand and contract with the changing
temperature and create a fluctuating stress point on the glass
eventually leading to the crack. The article was about windshields &
mirrors in general and not DeLorean specific so I am not sure this is
a DeLorean specific problem.

seanM

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Anybody know why our windshields crack if the mirror's
> glued directly to them when so many other windshields
> are fine?  Thinner/different glass?  The very flat
> design?  (Do similar shaped ones like Lotus require
> the tape-type installs?)
> 
> Just curious,
> 
> Steve
> 
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 20:39:05 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Looking for connection in Relay Compartment

Hi all

I have just bought an fm modulator to use my ipod with the original craig radio in the car.

I wired it up with out any problems but have been finding it difficult to find a place in the 
relay compartment to put the + feed to the modulator, I dont fancy connecting it directly to 
the battery.

It needs to be in a place where it will turn off with the ignition and then not drain the battery.  
I am currently using the 25amp door lock circuit breaker which seems to be giving it power 
when the ignition is off and on, so I need a better place folks!!

Alistair.







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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 20:39:23 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: Modified wiring - please help!

HI 

I have been sorting out my wiring under the dash on the passenger
side...it had been heavily modified for an alarm but i think i have
almost got it back to stock!

   My main worry now is this big black wire coming out of the
loom...i assume it is an earth?  it has been cut and is coming out 
of the loom...What is it for? See photo!

   http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1678.jpg

   There is then this... 2 black wires bolted to the under side of
the dash...again...  Both wires are cut.  Is this a stock earth or 
mod...is this where the single black wire from the previous picture 
should be
attached.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1668.jpg

   I am confused...any help appreciated!# - Please help!

   many thanks

   Craig DOC 20
   VIN 16723












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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 12:43:33 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Cracked.

On 3/29/06, Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Anybody know why our windshields crack if the mirror's
> glued directly to them when so many other windshields
> are fine?  Thinner/different glass?  The very flat
> design?  (Do similar shaped ones like Lotus require
> the tape-type installs?)

I'd like to know too, Steve.

I'm still not sure whether the cracked windshields are due to gluing
to the glass, or to the black patch. Anyone know that?

-Ryan


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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 13:14:48 -0800
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Windshield Cracked.

Per Don at DMC in Garden Grove, the inner layer of glass is notably
thinner than other windshields.  That makes it obviously more fragile as
well. Problems come when either a glued mirror is removed, or when the
glass expands and contracts at a different thermal rate than the mirror
base.  The adhesive pads have a bit of flexibility and can allow for the
glass to expand and contract at a different rate than the mirror base.

It follows that when mirrors are glued and then fall off that it was
likely due to some force rather than deterioration of the glue per se.
It sounds like in these cases the glass proved tougher than the glue,
and fortunately the glue eventually sheared and worked loose.  With
better glue, the glass can start to crack.  Once it starts, it's all
over.  

It happened to my car before I got it.  All the vendors sell the right
double stick tape and it probably costs less than a tube of superglue.
My new windshield ran $700-800 installed and shipped.  The math is easy.
I'm sure there are a number of folks here that are braver than I am that
have had some luck with glue, but I'm too cheap to take the chance.

A final note, one need not make the same mistake twice.  My new
windshield from DMCH came with a new mirror mounting pad at no extra
charge!

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Steve Stankiewicz
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:30 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Windshield Cracked.

Anybody know why our windshields crack if the mirror's
glued directly to them when so many other windshields
are fine?  Thinner/different glass?  The very flat
design?  (Do similar shaped ones like Lotus require
the tape-type installs?)

Just curious,

Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 13:19:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: front licence plate holder

Be patient. John has not been well. I'm sure he'll get to it as soon as he can. I've been waiting too, but for other reasons. You might try calling him.
   
  Chris
  06301

Guillaume Morel <hoplos_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
  Dear all,

I'm looking for a wide (EU format) licence plate holder for my front plate.
I don't want to make holes in the car, so I found one which prevents from
this at SpecialTauto
(
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/stainless-steel-license-pla.jpg
)

I ordered it, asked for Paypal payment, got an email without the freight
costs... so I've asked for the total price and paypal account, I've been
asking several times for more than 1 week by email and never got a single
reply.
Is this website closed? Do you know where I can get this item?

thank you,

Guillaume Morel
www.guillaumemorel.com


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