From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:11 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3185

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Manual transmission observation
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Muffler Paint
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Top Speed
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Re: Re: Looking for connection in Relay Compartment
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. Tach problem
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

6. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Automatic transmission shifting
From: "Jim Rowlette" <emooman_at_dml_msn.com>

8. This may be a dumb question but,
From: "mrfordaholic" <mrfordaholic_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Need front headlights for right hand drive car
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>

10. RE: Tach problem
From: "Sweet, Paul" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

11. RE: Wiring schematic for binnacle
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

12. Wiring schematic for binnacle
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

13. What is this connector for? the clock maybe?
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>

14. Re: Top Speed
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Thead/fitting size..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: This may be a dumb question but,
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Automatic transmission shifting
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Brush with Death
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

19. Re: This may be a dumb question but,
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

23. Re: Automatic transmission shifting
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: Muffler Paint
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 15:26:02 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Manual transmission observation

Hello again,

Overall I have been happy with my tranny however it does have some "idiosyncrasies" I thought I would bring up.

1- My car does not like to downshift into first gear. If I let it slow down a lot it will go in but if I continue to apply force the gear will grind, ouch! 

2- This has only happened a couple times: while traveling at highway speeds and shifting from 4th to 5th it would grind. I think this could possibly have been due to a lazy clutch foot.  

I replaced the 25 year old lubricant with Valvoline and the first gear thing got better. I read in the archives that some really low mileage cars have this issue so I am not overly concerned. Is this a quirk unique to this tranny box? I still have that crapy original clutch line installed. No leaks but I plan on replacing it anyway this summer. Shifting through all the other gears is fine. Any thoughts?

Nathan
2277








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 14:38:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Muffler Paint

I've had very good luck painting the muffler with ordinary hi-temp barbeque grill aluminum paint. I did it a few years (and probably 8000
miles) ago and it still looks pretty good, starting to flake a bit in the middle now.  

I spent a lot of time wire-wheel/sanding etc the muffler first (off the car). If you just spray over the crud that'd on there it won't last 10 minutes. If the center secion has a lot of flaking rust, it's hard to prep it right. Nothing is permanent, although I suppose you could get a muffler jet-hot coated.

I've also seen them polished - that looks cool until you run the car, then it turns brown pretty quickly. 

With all the header installations going in now, clean used mufflers are not all that hard to find. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Two questions, I'm not a mechanical type so bear with the dumbness of 
> the questions.  I always appreciate the postings, read every one,
have 
> learned alot.  I'm not happy with the way the muffler shows from 
> behind, want to paint it (I do know how to paint!!).  Will a high
temp 
> paint stay on it?  Anything I need to be careful of?  Planned to
paint 
> it black, figured it wouldn't get as dirty, but if I painted it
silver 
> would it look just as bad in a few weeks as it does now?  







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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 22:08:37 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Top Speed

I have had mine up to 110 mph and she wanted to do more but I didn't!  
Not sure what may be limiting you other than the usual maintenance items such as a clean air cleaner, properly inflated tires, etc.

Sandor
# 3002



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Today I was able to see what she is capable of. I floored it and got 
> the car to accelerate to 105mph. However it would not go any faster, 
> at least it seemed to top out around there on my GPS.
> 
> Is this a similar top speed to other Deloreans? Is there something 
> that would prevent me from going faster that I should look into? (as 
> if I need to go faster..)
> 
> Nathan
>








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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 23:20:42 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for connection in Relay Compartment


Also, turn the distance button off (if you have a Craig).  This will make the modulator much clearer.  It sounds obvious, but it took me a while to try this, for some reason.  It's the "DX" button that otherwise doesn't make much of a difference.  :-)

Jake
1063


----- Original Message -----
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 1:54 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Looking for connection in Relay Compartment


> I've had a few FM modulators, some do better than others I've found.
> Also if you're going around different parts of town our out of town,
> sometimes the station preset gets too strong for the FM modulator and
> you might have to switch channels.  For example, 88.3 might be fuzz
> where you are now but 20 miles away a lower strength station might be
> broadcasting.  Can you change channels remotely with your unit?  If
> you bury it in your relay compartment it'll be tough changing stations
> on the fly.  I'd like to know what kind you bought if you don't mind
> sharing.
>
> -John
> #5572
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all
>>
>> I have just bought an fm modulator to use my ipod with the original
> craig radio in the car.
> 




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 09:31:30 -0700
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Tach problem

Paul,

The tachometer is the weakest link in the entire Delorean electrical system.  If you have pulse showing up at the wire (I think it's a gray & white striped wire, but check a wiring diagram to be sure) under the dash, you're getting all the proper information there so the tach is probably the problem.

Craig Werner
07181


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 16:18:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

Change the clutch line ASAP if not sooner. It's causing you to NOT 
disengage the gears completely (your lazy clutch action). It's worse 
when hot since the line balloons. This will quicky, if it has not 
already, wear out the sliding gear teeth and break the second gear 
shift rollpin. The sliding gear is hard to buy/expensive. The rollpin 
is about $1 but is buried pretty deep in the trans. I have no idea 
why this wears out the expensive sliding gear and not the relatively 
inexpensive brass syncro ring, but that's how it works.

Dave S - just rebuilt another one this week, one more on the floor 
waiting.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" 
<valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hello again,
> 
> Overall I have been happy with my tranny however it does have 
> some "idiosyncrasies" I thought I would bring up.
> 
> 1- My car does not like to downshift into first gear. If I let it 
> slow down a lot it will go in but if I continue to apply force the 
> gear will grind, ouch! 
> 
> 2- This has only happened a couple times: while traveling at 
highway 
> speeds and shifting from 4th to 5th it would grind. I think this 
> could possibly have been due to a lazy clutch foot.  
> 
> I replaced the 25 year old 







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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 16:29:08 -0000
From: "Jim Rowlette" <emooman_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Automatic transmission shifting

Just completed a trip of about 200 miles over the weekend.  On the way 
to my destination the transmission began shifting from 3rd gear to 2nd 
for no reason.  This lasted about 10 minutes and then returned to 
normal for the remainder of the trip. On the way back the transmission 
would only shift from 1st to 2nd gear and would never go into 3rd. I 
was able to limp back home keeping the RPM's under 3500.  The 
transmission and engine only have 3000 miles on them.  Any ideas?

Thanks

Jim Rowlette







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 17:36:16 -0000
From: "mrfordaholic" <mrfordaholic_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: This may be a dumb question but,

I have never owned a DeLorean, but have been in love with them since 
they first came out new. To be honest, i do not have the money to go 
out and buy one in mint shape. I do belive I could afford one that 
needs to be restored however. I have restored several muscle cars in 
the past(my father owned a body shop when I was growing up). So my 
question is, how hard is it to find parts? I know to get in the right 
circles and clubs to help find them, but are the parts out there, or 
should I give up? I plan on taken a couple of years or more to do one 
right, and trust me, it would be my baby! Any opinions or advice would 
be very helpfull.............thank you







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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 16:37:50 -0000
From: "Chris Williams" <chris_at_dml_cwilliams68.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Need front headlights for right hand drive car

Max,
I have recently changed the stock sealed beam units to the ones 
supplied by ;
http://www.delorean.co.uk/
These are for the UK so the beam points the correct way, also 
available are 'halo' lights which look really cool and would provide 
you with the parking light you require, I think.
Chris
vin#4584
UK
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bluemax86" <bluemax86_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> 
> I need to change the headlights on my DeLorean to conform to
> Australian standards, which means the beams need to point to the left
> as oppossed to the right. Also the park lights on the D need to be
> white and not amber.
> 
> So do any of our European friends know where I can get some 
headlights
> with the park light also as part of the headlight.
> 
> Thanks
> Max
>









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 13:06:31 -0400
From: "Sweet, Paul" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: RE: Tach problem

Thanks Craig,
 
I'll take a look at the wiring when I can later this week.
 
Paul

	-----Original Message-----
	From: Gekko West Coast Base [mailto:gekko_at_dml_tds.net] 
	Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 12:32 PM
	To: Sweet, Paul; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
	Subject: Tach problem
	
	
	Paul,
	 
	The tachometer is the weakest link in the entire Delorean
electrical system.  If you have pulse showing up at the wire (I think
it's a gray & white striped wire, but check a wiring diagram to be sure)
under the dash, you're getting all the proper information there so the
tach is probably the problem.
	 
	Craig Werner
	07181



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 17:57:45 +0100
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Wiring schematic for binnacle

I had a similar problem when I replaced the bulbs with LEDs.  I found that
some of the light holders worked in certain holes and not in others.  I
managed (by switching them round a bit) to get everything working except the
full beam indicator - which stopped working as soon as I re-fitted the
binnacle.

Im planning to change the plastic holders but havenít got round to tracking
them down so if anyone knows where I can get a set or what other cars used
them I would love to know.  Martin had mentioned they may also have been
used in Saabs but I have not had a chance to check.

Paul
2493
Belfast

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
bluemax86
Sent: 03 April 2006 14:45
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Wiring schematic for binnacle

Hi All,

OK another question. I took my binnacle completely apart to replace
the trip meter "stick". Now that I have put everything back together
my fuel gauge doesn't work and some lights don't work (I also
converted to LED's). I have checked and re-checked everything but no
matter what I do I can't get everything to work again.

So, before I spend hours trying to trace all the connections, does
anyone have a wiring "diagram" or document showing what the pins on
the black and white plug housing do.

Thanks
Max




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 07:39:22 -0700
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Wiring schematic for binnacle

Hello Max,

If you have one of the large schematic drawings (not the ones in the shop manual, etc,) the detail for the instrument panel is pretty good.  Part of your problem with the LEDS is that they are diodes and must be installed with the correct polarity.  Which is not indicated on the devices.  Using a 12 V source while (sorry to say this) the binnacle is out of the car, and the schematic, power each LED separately.  You will see that some are grounded to the binnacle, so that you have to apply plus voltage to the connector on the circuit board.  Others LEDS get +12 from the common supply on the binnacle and get grounded remotely.  With those, power the common + 12 on the binnacle and supply the return (-12 V) on the individual pins.  If you discover a LED isn't polarized correctly (not lighting), remove it, and rotatate its connector 180 degrees and put back in the binnacle board.  

The only other problem you might encounter is the copper on the connector portion of the board might have become unbonded from the flexible backing...I had this with one of the gauge lines.  Carefully re-glue with a good glue.  

If you're having trouble, and live in the CA/LA area, I'd be glad to help.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4639/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 18:04:46 -0000
From: "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_virgin.net>
Subject: What is this connector for? the clock maybe?

Hi all!



I love these lighter evenings as i have got loads done on the car!  
All vacuum flaps now operaate and i have sorted out loads of wiring 
oddities from the PO.



I have found a connector behind the centre console and i am unsure 
as to what it is for as everything seems to be working fine!



Is it for the clock?  my aug 82 car does not have a clock so thought 
it might be a redundent connector.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/mrvic20/DSCF1708.jpg


Many thanks



Craig Vin 16723

DOC 20










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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 19:03:57 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Top Speed



Thomas Mc Auley wrote:

>  What speed do you think a stock engine would do Martin? From experience or just in theory ;-) :-p
>   
>  Thomas
>  Vin #4087
>  
>
They're all different. Some go like the clappers, others don't and for 
no readily apparent reason. All manuals of course. Certainly Stuart's 
Stage II sets the benchmark for a NA 2.8 Odd-fire. My god that thing 
pulls like a train over 4500rpm and the challenge is to get it to that 
point so that you can carry on in 5th "on the cam", and red-lining in 
4th is rapid enough to start with!

Martin






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 11:58:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thead/fitting size..

I am trying to find something to convert the fuel
lines on the body to a hose barb.

Does anyone know what the thread and fitting type are?

I need a barb to screw on to Part 106993.  The banjo
fitting is NOT part of the hose, so I took the hose
off and want to put a barb on it.  The thread looks to
be some strange metric size, but it also needs to have
the proper angle in the fitting to seal the pressure. 
Maybe inverted flare?

I also need a barb to screw on to part 106994 on the
return line.

.... My alternate is to find a beat-up fuel line and
cut it up, but I have not had much luck getting a "fit
to cut up" engine wire harness either!



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 12:14:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: This may be a dumb question but,

mrfordaholic,
No it's not a dumb question.

Clubs abound and parts are a plenty... see link for info on both:
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/links.htm

As for restoring... be sure to check out Project Vixen by Dave Stragand
http://www.projectvixen.com/
He documents his restoration in great detail with other helpful tidbits of what
you can expect, cost, etc.

Shannon Y
16506 

--------------------------------

From: "mrfordaholic" <mrfordaholic_at_dml_...>
Date: Mon Apr 3, 2006  1:36 pm
Subject: This may be a dumb question but, 	

I have never owned a DeLorean, but have been in love with them since
they first came out new. To be honest, i do not have the money to go
out and buy one in mint shape. I do belive I could afford one that
needs to be restored however. I have restored several muscle cars in
the past(my father owned a body shop when I was growing up). So my
question is, how hard is it to find parts? I know to get in the right
circles and clubs to help find them, but are the parts out there, or
should I give up? I plan on taken a couple of years or more to do one
right, and trust me, it would be my baby! Any opinions or advice would
be very helpfull.............thank you









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Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 13:31:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission shifting

Sounds like a new governor is in the near future. 
When was the last time that the governor was replaced?

--- Jim Rowlette <emooman_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:

> Just completed a trip of about 200 miles over the
> weekend.  On the way 
> to my destination the transmission began shifting
> from 3rd gear to 2nd 
> for no reason.  This lasted about 10 minutes and
> then returned to 
> normal for the remainder of the trip. On the way
> back the transmission 
> would only shift from 1st to 2nd gear and would
> never go into 3rd. I 
> was able to limp back home keeping the RPM's under
> 3500.  The 
> transmission and engine only have 3000 miles on
> them.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim Rowlette





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 08:39:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Brush with Death

Replying to the "Top Speed" took me back to a near disaster experience
I had a couple weeks ago and the lesson learned.

My present daily driver Delorean is a car I purchased on e-bay 2 years
ago.  The car had not been driven in 10 years so I went thru all of the
fuel and fluid systems.  As part of the process of rebuilding the rear
brakes I removed the rotors and hubs.  It took my impact wrench to
remove the nut that holds the hubs on the axles. During reassembly, I
retorqued the hub/axle nut to spec.

For several months I have felt like the car has not been handling as
well as my previous D, and after checking the wheels for axle movement,
discovered some play in the front axle.  I replaced the bearings in
this wheel but still had the feeling of oversteer.  I suspected that
the original shocks were the culprit, but I still planned to pull all
of the wheels again to double-check the axles.

Before I "got around" to a second check of the wheels, I experience a
drive train failure while going about 15 mph.  When I'd engage the
clutch, there was grinding sound and no movement forward in reverse.  

At my shop, I lifted the rear of the car expecting to find a clutch or
transmission problem.  Instead, I discovered an axle nut that was so
loose that the wheel was about to fall off of the car!  The splines on
the hub were completely worn away; fortunately, the axle is made of a
harder steel and the splines were still intact on the axle.

The lessons learned or relearned:

1.  It's very important to recheck torques after removing/replacing
critical components.
2.  When something doesn't seem right on the car, immediately find and
correct the problem before driving the car again, particularly if it
may be related to a drive, suspension or fuel system.  This failure
cost me an $80 hub, but it could have cost me my life (see 120 mph post
earlier today).  Same thing applies to fuel systems (A local mechanic
was not as lucky when received severe burns as a result of a fire
caused by fuel leaking from a banjo fitting on the fuel distributor of
a Delorean.)




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 11:20:09 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: This may be a dumb question but,

Hello,

This question comes up from time to time. Be prepared for a harsh reality.

On 4/3/06, mrfordaholic <mrfordaholic_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have never owned a DeLorean, but have been in love with them since
> they first came out new. To be honest, i do not have the money to go
> out and buy one in mint shape. I do belive I could afford one that
> needs to be restored however.

Unfortunately, this line of thinking is incorrect. You may be able to
afford a car that needs restoration, but you won't be able to afford
to actually restore it if you can't afford to buy a nice one.

Your typical DeLorean in great shape will run $20k, give or take. A
project car might be half that. Unfortunately, the general rule is
that your project car is going to cost more to restore than if you'd
just bought a nice DeLorean to begin with. Let's say you get a great
deal on a beat up DeLorean for $8k. You'll probably have $30k into it
by the time you're done, not including countless hours of your time.

You would have been better off just spending the ~$20k on a good
DeLorean to begin with.

My suggestion: Take whatever cash you were going to put toward the
purchase of a beat up DeLorean (don't tell me you were going to
finance a car you can't drive) and put it in a savings account. Add
money to it as often as you can and when you've got about $20k, go pay
cash for a nice car. I guarantee you'll be better off and more happy
with your car in the end.

> So my
> question is, how hard is it to find parts? I know to get in the right
> circles and clubs to help find them, but are the parts out there, or
> should I give up? I plan on taken a couple of years or more to do one
> right, and trust me, it would be my baby! Any opinions or advice would
> be very helpfull.............thank you

Parts are, for the most part, easy to find:
http://www.memfrag.com/mf.app?ssdir=9&dataid=15

But if you're going to spend a couple of years restoring, not being
able to drive the car, you might as well be putting the money you
would be spending on parts into a bank account to save for a nice
DeLorean.

Of course, if you really want to restore a car because you find
enjoyment in the actual process, and if you don't mind spending $10k
more than the car will be worth on top of countless hours of your
time, then a restoration/project car would be the way to go. However,
I'm telling you now, if you're doing this to save money it's a
terrible idea, you won't save any, and you'll probably end up selling
the project at a loss halfway through due to frustration and/or
funding problems.

-Ryan


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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 19:08:59 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation



Nathan Sobieralski wrote:

>1- My car does not like to downshift into first gear. If I let it 
>slow down a lot it will go in but if I continue to apply force the 
>gear will grind, ouch! 
>
I don't know if this is a european thing or not but as a driver of 
French cars (Citroen and Renaults) I can confirm that this is common to 
all of them.... but is it a bad thing?

>2- This has only happened a couple times: while traveling at highway 
>speeds and shifting from 4th to 5th it would grind. I think this 
>could possibly have been due to a lazy clutch foot. 
>
Mine does this too very occasionally on a  fast upshift. It's a big box 
by european standards, and going from 4th to 5th the mainshaft is 
spinning the fastest of any gearchange so the synchro can't always do 
its job as fast as you'd like. Well that's IMO.

> 
>I replaced the 25 year old lubricant with Valvoline and the first 
>gear thing got better. I read in the archives that some really low 
>mileage cars have this issue so I am not overly concerned. 
>
Mine had 2353 miles on it and thanks to other box problems, got new gear 
oil when i got it.

Martin
#1458
#4426





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 18:30:37 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

I was worried it could be that. How do I confirm that the clutch is 
not disengaging all the way? I was sure that it was disengaging 
because when the clutch is disengaged at a complete stop the car 
will not roll when in gear. 

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Change the clutch line ASAP if not sooner. It's causing you to NOT 
> disengage the gears completely (your lazy clutch action). It's 
worse 
> when hot since the line balloons. This will quicky, if it has not 
> already, wear out the sliding gear teeth and break the second gear 
> shift rollpin. The sliding gear is hard to buy/expensive. The 
rollpin 
> is about $1 but is buried pretty deep in the trans. I have no idea 
> why this wears out the expensive sliding gear and not the 
relatively 
> inexpensive brass syncro ring, but that's how it works.
> 
> Dave S - just rebuilt another one this week, one more on the floor 
> waiting.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" 
> <valleyrat12_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Hello again,
> > 
> > Overall I have been happy with my tranny however it does have 
> > some "idiosyncrasies" I thought I would bring up.
> > 
> > 1- My car does not like to downshift into first gear. If I let 
it 
> > slow down a lot it will go in but if I continue to apply force 
the 
> > gear will grind, ouch! 
> > 
> > 2- This has only happened a couple times: while traveling at 
> highway 
> > speeds and shifting from 4th to 5th it would grind. I think this 
> > could possibly have been due to a lazy clutch foot.  
> > 
> > I replaced the 25 year old
>








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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 11:46:48 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Strut Pressure and Wings-A-Loft

On 3/31/06, Patrick C. <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> Maybe this is just a problem a handful of people have.

I've got the same problem.

When I first installed the launchers, they worked perfectly every
time. Then I broke one of my door struts and, after replacing them,
found the previous owner had cranked the torsion bars way up. After
properly resetting the torsion bars, my doors no longer launch. Now,
at my current setting, the doors open nicely and stop gently right at
the top. If I crank up one notch, the doors launch fine but bounce at
the top, which I don't like.

Toby and I have discussed options to overcome this. There are
spring-loaded things you can attach to the car that would push the
door out far enough to launch properly, but I'm worried they will
compress the door too tightly against the pins and overpower the
launch actuator or outside door handle. Anyone who has tried to adjust
their door pins knows what I'm talking about here.

So the remaining option is a small linear actuator working in tandem
with the one that unlatches the doors. It doesn't have to be super
strong, as very little pressure is usually required. Where to mount it
is a different story. I've thought about the inside bottom of the
door, or possibly inside that little bolster/panel thing that juts out
next to the seats (except, I have no idea how to get that piece off to
see if there's any room inside of it). Either method would require
drilling a hole in the car, however.

I will say, however, that Toby's launching solution is still an
excellent one. It's simple and affordable and works fine if you don't
mind a little bounce at the top of your door travel. It's also 100%
necessary if you want door launchers at all, because something has to
release the door and that's what his kit does. However, the die-hards
like myself who really want perfect launching in every situation
without excess tension on the torsion bars should be prepared to look
at some sort of custom solution to push the doors further from the
body.

If I ever get a final solution working, maybe Toby will offer it as a
"Stage 2" door launching system.

-Ryan


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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 20:46:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission shifting

Computer governor. Don't keep driving it this way,its really tough on 
the transmission internals which cost a LOT more. You actually have 
the better of two failure modes, in the other mode it will start in 
second and shift to third which burns things up in short order (hi 
Ken). 

If you're handy with electronics you can fix it with about a 50% 
success rate, if not you can buy rebuilt ones with a slightly higher 
success rate (but a warranty). 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Rowlette" <emooman_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just completed a trip of about 200 miles over the weekend.  On the 
way 
> to my destination the transmission began shifting from 3rd gear to 
2nd 
> for no reason.  This lasted about 10 minutes and then returned to 
> normal for the remainder of the trip. On the way back the 
transmission 
> would only shift from 1st to 2nd gear and would never go into 3rd. 
I 
> was able to limp back home keeping the RPM's under 3500.  The 
> transmission and engine only have 3000 miles on them.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim Rowlette
>








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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 20:49:13 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

Drive the car around and get it good and hot. The clutch line is 
above the frame, so it gets heated by the water lines and fuel tank 
but it takes a while. 

Put a floor jack under the back end frame, lift both rear tires off 
the ground. Chock the front wheels. If (legal disclaimer here) it 
falls and runs over you, don't blame me. 

Put on the e-brake. Start the engine. Put the clutch to the floor. 
Put the car in gear (first) with the clutch on the floor. Let the 
ebrake off. If the wheels start turning you can tell that it's still 
dragging. You can modulate the pedal and find the true engagement 
point. The reason you can't tell in normal driving is that it doesn't 
take much friction to make the gears clash. 

Replace the hydraulic line - it's about $100 and will save you 
thousands in trans repairs. (well - hundreds if you do it yourself.) 

Dave 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" 
<valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I was worried it could be that. How do I confirm that the clutch is 
> not disengaging all the way? I was sure that it was disengaging 
> because when the clutch is disengaged at a complete stop the car 
> will not roll when in gear. 
> 
> Nathan
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Change the clutch line ASAP if not sooner. It's causing you to 
NOT 
> > disengage the gears completely (your lazy clutch action).








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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:14:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Muffler Paint

Look up Eastwood.com. They have some very good exhaust paints. You
can't put them on over rust, the surface must be clean if it is going
to last.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I've had very good luck painting the muffler with ordinary hi-temp 
> barbeque grill aluminum paint. I did it a few years (and probably 8000 
> miles) ago and it still looks pretty good, starting to flake a bit in 
> the middle now.  
> 
> I spent a lot of time wire-wheel/sanding etc the muffler first (off the 
> car). If you just spray over the crud that'd on there it won't last 10 
> minutes. If the center secion has a lot of flaking rust, it's hard to 
> prep it right. Nothing is permanent, although I suppose you could get a 
> muffler jet-hot coated.
> 
> I've also seen them polished - that looks cool until you run the car, 
> then it turns brown pretty quickly. 
> 
> With all the header installations going in now, clean used mufflers are 
> not all that hard to find. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Two questions, I'm not a mechanical type so bear with the dumbness of 
> > the questions.  I always appreciate the postings, read every one, 
> have 
> > learned alot.  I'm not happy with the way the muffler shows from 
> > behind, want to paint it (I do know how to paint!!).  Will a high 
> temp 
> > paint stay on it?  Anything I need to be careful of?  Planned to 
> paint 
> > it black, figured it wouldn't get as dirty, but if I painted it 
> silver 
> > would it look just as bad in a few weeks as it does now?
>








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