From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 9:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3186

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Starter issue
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

2. Re: Automatic transmission shifting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

3. Re: What is this connector for? the clock maybe?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

5. Re: Hello from new member!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

6. ignition key woes
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

7. Re: This may be a dumb question but,
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

8. Re: Top Speed
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. Lug Nut Inquiry (Tall, Short or Both)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Thead/fitting size..
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Re: Automatic transmission shifting
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

14. Re: Manual transmission observation
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: ignition key woes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

17. top speed
From: "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Lug Nut Inquiry (Tall, Short or Both)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Re: This may be a dumb question but,
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: headers - on or off?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: top speed
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

22. Re: Muffler Paint / AC Water
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Brush with Death
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: top speed
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

25. Re: Hello from new member!
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:06:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Starter issue

Check out the starter interlock system. You did not say if you have an automatic or 5-speed. On the 5-speed the interlock system is jumpered out but a bad connection can still disable the circuit. On an automatic the starter control system goes into the combo switch on the transmission. A misadjusted shift cable or a bad switch could be causing your problem. You need to see if there is 12 volts on the control wire at the starter when you turn the key to the start position. It is also possible you have a bad starter solenoid or a worn out starter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am having an intermittent (sp?) problem with the starter on 6704, 
> sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, there is no pattern of 
> when it will work and when it won't.  It's not the battery, plenty of 
> jusice there.  Anyone got any ideas where to look for a problem here.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bernie
> 
> VIN 4045 and 6704
>








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:09:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Automatic transmission shifting

Typical symptoms of a malfunctioning shift computer. If you are handy with a soldering iron it can be repaired or you can choose to replace (the more expensive option). It is not advisable to continue driving on a cranky shift computer, it can cause serious internal (read
expensive) damage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Rowlette" <emooman_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just completed a trip of about 200 miles over the weekend.  On the way 
> to my destination the transmission began shifting from 3rd gear to 2nd 
> for no reason.  This lasted about 10 minutes and then returned to 
> normal for the remainder of the trip. On the way back the transmission 
> would only shift from 1st to 2nd gear and would never go into 3rd. I 
> was able to limp back home keeping the RPM's under 3500.  The 
> transmission and engine only have 3000 miles on them.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jim Rowlette
>








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:12:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: What is this connector for? the clock maybe?

It IS for the 81 console clock. It is a handy point to hook up accesories like radios, CB's, etc. If you chhose not to use it cover it with a plastic plug or some electrical tape.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mrvic20" <faycraig.newton_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi all!
> 
> 
> 
> I love these lighter evenings as i have got loads done on the car!  
> All vacuum flaps now operaate and i have sorted out loads of wiring 
> oddities from the PO.
> 
> 







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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 16:54:26 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: BAE Turbo Documentation

How about scanning the manuals and posting them on the DMCNEWS website.

Scott
002981


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:36:31 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation

 
What is the vin on your Delorean?  I know that there are only a few  out there.  I've never taken mine off or tried to modify it, perhaps  someone else has.  I have the original installation manual and can make a  copy for you.  A key element of the Turbo is to let it heat up prior to  taking off.  At least this is what the original owner told me.
 
Roy
00893
 
In a message dated 4/3/2006 10:01:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
magrutter_at_dml_web.de writes:

I just  bought a '81 DeLorean with the BAE Turbo Kit installed.
Unfortunally it  seems like its not working.

Scott

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:24:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Hello from new member!

I am glad to hear you were treated well at Delorean One. Not too many
owners can claim that. Take a look over at dmcnews.com and you will
find there are other vendors you can choose from to "keep your wheels
turning". Also register on the Delorean Owners Directory and you will
be able to find other owners in your area.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean_lady" <delorean_lady_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just saying hello from Las Vegas!
> 
> Are there any other DeLorean owners in Nevada in this group?
> 







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 22:03:33 -0000
From: "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: ignition key woes

Hey guys, 
My dad broke off a little piece of his ignition key in the ignition.  
Any ideas how to avoid the locksmith charge or the breakapart method.  
anybody have another one to swap out.  I would like to get this one to 
a locksmith because my dad sid it never fit in right.  he suspected a 
previous owner theft attempt.  My hats off to Bob Miller for swapping 
my steering column when I had no keys for mine when I originally 
bought it.  Anyone have a spare ignition or column lying around (with 
or without key) I could have rekeyed or anyone have any idea what 
volvo crossover?

thanks,

Joseph Molino
2850








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 22:27:49 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: This may be a dumb question but,

hi all

sorry to rock the boat but i don't quite agree.

i bought mine and shipped to the UK. a non runner and have spent the 
last year and a half doing a bit at a time.
if i had waited till i saved say 15000 it would never have arrived 
as the wife etc would want to see that sort of cash on a new kitchen 
etc!!

so i bought a rebuild, do a bit at a time, buy second hand off ebay 
if you wish (virtually all parts come up at sometime but don't skimp 
on anything needed for safety.)

sometime if you want something that bad you have to listen to your 
heart and not your wallet, you only live once.

my car now runs and drives short distance. next is a screen and a 
small weld patch, but i can still 'live the dream' in my garage, and 
soon out on the road.
classic cars will always cost money and not really for sensible, 
economy concsious people, for that buy a small diesel.

just my idea anyway.

Steve  UK

ps if john Delorean had just followed his wallet and been sensible, 
would he have stayed at where he was and never built the DMC 12 and 
lived his dream?



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Hello,
> 
> This question comes up from time to time. Be prepared for a harsh 
reality.
> 
> On 4/3/06, mrfordaholic <mrfordaholic_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > I have never owned a DeLorean, but have been in love with them 
since
> > they first came out new. To be honest, i do not have the money 
to go
> > out and buy one in mint shape. I do belive I could afford one 
that
> > needs to be restored however.
> 
> Unfortunately, this line of thinking is incorrect. You may be able 
to
> afford a car that needs restoration, but you won't be able to 
afford
> to actually restore it if you can't afford to buy a nice one.
> 
> Your typical DeLorean in great shape will run $20k, give or take. A
> project car might be half that. Unfortunately, the general rule is
> that your project car is going to cost more to restore than if 
you'd
> just bought a nice DeLorean to begin with. Let's say you get a 
great
> deal on a beat up DeLorean for $8k. You'll probably have $30k into 
it
> by the time you're done, not including countless hours of your 
time.
> 
> You would have been better off just spending the ~$20k on a good
> DeLorean to begin with.
> 
> My suggestion: Take whatever cash you were going to put toward the
> purchase of a beat up DeLorean (don't tell me you were going to
> finance a car you can't drive) and put it in a savings account. Add
> money to it as often as you can and when you've got about $20k, go 
pay
> cash for a nice car. I guarantee you'll be better off and more 
happy
> with your car in the end.
> 
> > So my
> > question is, how hard is it to find parts? I know to get in the 
right
> > circles and clubs to help find them, but are the parts out 
there, or
> > should I give up? I plan on taken a couple of years or more to 
do one
> > right, and trust me, it would be my baby! Any opinions or advice 
would
> > be very helpfull.............thank you
> 
> Parts are, for the most part, easy to find:
> http://www.memfrag.com/mf.app?ssdir=9&dataid=15
> 
> But if you're going to spend a couple of years restoring, not being
> able to drive the car, you might as well be putting the money you
> would be spending on parts into a bank account to save for a nice
> DeLorean.
> 
> Of course, if you really want to restore a car because you find
> enjoyment in the actual process, and if you don't mind spending 
$10k
> more than the car will be worth on top of countless hours of your
> time, then a restoration/project car would be the way to go. 
However,
> I'm telling you now, if you're doing this to save money it's a
> terrible idea, you won't save any, and you'll probably end up 
selling
> the project at a loss halfway through due to frustration and/or
> funding problems.
> 
> -Ryan
>









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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 15:03:24 -0800
From: "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Top Speed

Someone I know may have spent a few hours on the freeway with the
speedo buried. GPS recorded 109mph. The car had plenty of power left;
the driver was not trying to max out the speed, just driving as fast
as was comfortable on a road trip. The car was extremely stable and
comfortable there, too. ;-)

I'd imagine the top speed on a DeLorean is quite close to the V6
Fiero. Someone I know .. :) .. took a Fiero up to ~140mph once.
Wrapped the 85mph speedo back to 0, then up to 30-35mph, at which
point the needle began spinning like a top. Fun times...

-Ryan


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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:18:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

You will know when you replace the crappy plastic clutch line. If the
clutch fluid is dark you can also figure on replacing or rebuilding
the clutch master and slave cylinders too. If you don't they will
start leaking soon after you replace the line and bleed with fresh fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> I was worried it could be that. How do I confirm that the clutch is 
> not disengaging all the way? I was sure that it was disengaging 
> because when the clutch is disengaged at a complete stop the car 
> will not roll when in gear. 
> 







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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:37:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lug Nut Inquiry (Tall, Short or Both)

Over the years the torque monkeys who removed/replaced my wheels have done their
toll on the lug nuts causing the chrome cas to separate from the rest of the
lugnuts. Upon calling DMCEarth (er, DMCH) [http://www.dmcearth.com/] Warren said
they only have the short version of the nuts and (to his knowledge) never have
sold the long cap version. 

I'm wondering if these "long chrome caps" are aftermarke or actually stock nuts
for the deeper rear rim? Does anyone else have longer chrome caps on the rear lug
nuts? 

I thought this was "stock" to have longer caps on the rear and shorter on the
front to accomodate the different rim sizes.

visual here:
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/ss/DMCLugNuts.jpg

Shannon Y
16506

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 00:17:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Thead/fitting size..



Marc Levy wrote:

>I need a barb to screw on to Part 106993.  
>
Funnily enough the Renault Alpine has a strait ended barb into the top 
of the fuel filter too. The thread is standard M12. We have our 
replacement hoses made with a standard M12 banjo fitting - no idea why 
it has a higher flow one at that end originally, seeing as at the other 
end it'd be just as a restricted with a regular one anyway. If you want 
one quickly, buy one of the 45 degree ones from the fuel pump that 
Houston sell

>I also need a barb to screw on to part 106994 on the
>return line.
>
On our replacement hoses, we just have them made with the correct end 
and throw that silly adapter away. I can have hoses made up with only 
one end and a length of high pressure fuel hose if you like...

>.... My alternate is to find a beat-up fuel line and
>cut it up, but I have not had much luck getting a "fit
>to cut up" engine wire harness either!
>
We do the Rists connectors mate, all you gotta do is drop me a mail...

Martin
DMC Ltd






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 23:17:39 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

I guess should probably replace the slave and master cylinder while 
I am at it. Is there a way to tell if I have all ready done damage 
to my tranny? It shifts so well usually, I never have a problem 
going into reverse or into second. If something was broken in there 
I would feel and hear the side effect correct?

Nathan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Drive the car around and get it good and hot. The clutch line is 
> above the frame, so it gets heated by the water lines and fuel 
tank 
> but it takes a while. 
> 
> Put a floor jack under the back end frame, lift both rear tires 
off 
> the ground. Chock the front wheels. If (legal disclaimer here) it 
> falls and runs over you, don't blame me. 
> 
> Put on the e-brake. Start the engine. Put the clutch to the floor. 
> Put the car in gear (first) with the clutch on the floor. Let the 
> ebrake off. If the wheels start turning you can tell that it's 
still 
> dragging. You can modulate the pedal and find the true engagement 
> point. The reason you can't tell in normal driving is that it 
doesn't 
> take much friction to make the gears clash. 
> 
> Replace the hydraulic line - it's about $100 and will save you 
> thousands in trans repairs. (well - hundreds if you do it 
yourself.) 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" 
> <valleyrat12_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I was worried it could be that. How do I confirm that the clutch 
is 
> > not disengaging all the way? I was sure that it was disengaging 
> > because when the clutch is disengaged at a complete stop the car 
> > will not roll when in gear. 
> > 
> > Nathan
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_> wrote:
> > >
> > > Change the clutch line ASAP if not sooner. It's causing you to 
> NOT 
> > > disengage the gears completely (your lazy clutch action).
>








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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 16:19:30 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Automatic transmission shifting

I would like to echo David's comment.  I think it's your shift computer.  I 
just went through this with my car.  Please e-mail me if you have any 
questions about the process I went through (ultimately buying a rebuilt 
computer from pj grady and installing it with the help of an AZ Delorean 
Club member).

Matt Carpenter
AZ-D.ORG
VIN 5586




>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Automatic transmission shifting
>Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 21:09:33 -0000
>
>Typical symptoms of a malfunctioning shift computer. If you are handy
>with a soldering iron it can be repaired or you can choose to replace
>(the more expensive option). It is not advisable to continue driving
>on a cranky shift computer, it can cause serious internal (read
>expensive) damage.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Rowlette" <emooman_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > Just completed a trip of about 200 miles over the weekend.  On the way
> > to my destination the transmission began shifting from 3rd gear to 2nd
> > for no reason.  This lasted about 10 minutes and then returned to
> > normal for the remainder of the trip. On the way back the transmission
> > would only shift from 1st to 2nd gear and would never go into 3rd. I
> > was able to limp back home keeping the RPM's under 3500.  The
> > transmission and engine only have 3000 miles on them.  Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jim Rowlette




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 18:30:37 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Manual transmission observation

I was worried it could be that. How do I confirm that the clutch is 
not disengaging all the way? I was sure that it was disengaging 
because when the clutch is disengaged at a complete stop the car 
will not roll when in gear. 

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Change the clutch line ASAP if not sooner. It's causing you to NOT 
> disengage the gears completely (your lazy clutch action). It's 
worse 
> when hot since the line balloons. This will quicky, if it has not 
> already, wear out the sliding gear teeth and break the second gear 
> shift rollpin. The sliding gear is hard to buy/expensive. The 
rollpin 
> is about $1 but is buried pretty deep in the trans. I have no idea 
> why this wears out the expensive sliding gear and not the 
relatively 
> inexpensive brass syncro ring, but that's how it works.
> 
> Dave S - just rebuilt another one this week, one more on the floor 
> waiting.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" 
> <valleyrat12_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Hello again,
> > 
> > Overall I have been happy with my tranny however it does have 
> > some "idiosyncrasies" I thought I would bring up.
> > 
> > 1- My car does not like to downshift into first gear. If I let 
it 
> > slow down a lot it will go in but if I continue to apply force 
the 
> > gear will grind, ouch! 
> > 
> > 2- This has only happened a couple times: while traveling at 
> highway 
> > speeds and shifting from 4th to 5th it would grind. I think this 
> > could possibly have been due to a lazy clutch foot.  
> > 
> > I replaced the 25 year old
>








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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 19:53:15 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation

 
Scott.. As another individual mentioned the manual is in the archive  section 
of this group.  If you want one photocopied let me know your  address and 
I'll snail mail one to you.
 
Roy
00893
 
In a message dated 4/3/2006 7:12:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com writes:

How  about scanning the manuals and posting them on the DMCNEWS  website.

Scott
002981






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 00:04:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: ignition key woes

Removing the ignition cylinder is not that difficult. There are 2
tamperproof screws that you need to remove. Refer to H:03:01. After
you get the thing loose removing the broken piece of key is easy. In
fact if you go to a locksmith with the lock he will probably remove
the piece for the cost of cutting a new key. Once he removes the piece
he may be able to either decode it or copy it. If the column is out of
the car just grab the whole thing and take it to the locksmith, saves
the trouble of even removing the tamperproof screws! Bring the rest of
the  broken key too if you still have it. If your car is the 1 key
system bring the "vault door" too for a test fit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "foxmul2001" <foxmul_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, 
> My dad broke off a little piece of his ignition key in the ignition.  
> Any ideas how to avoid the locksmith charge or the breakapart method.  
> anybody have another one to swap out.  I would like to get this one to 
> a locksmith because my dad sid it never fit in right.  he suspected a 
> previous owner theft attempt.  My hats off to Bob Miller for swapping 
> my steering column when I had no keys for mine when I originally 
> bought it.  Anyone have a spare ignition or column lying around (with 
> or without key) I could have rekeyed or anyone have any idea what 
> volvo crossover?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Joseph Molino
> 2850
>








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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 01:01:44 -0000
From: "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: top speed

Guys in 1981 Road and Track test drove the new Delorean. I am sure 
that someone on this site has this magazine close at hand. They wrote 
a nice review of the car and they listed the top speed they got on a 
race track. I don't recall the exact speed they listed but I think it 
was in the 150's. As I said someone must have this article handy. I 
can tell you for sure that the top end is over 125 stock.

Andy B 3513







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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 00:11:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Lug Nut Inquiry (Tall, Short or Both)

Be VERY CAREFUL in looking for a replacement lug nut. They are not all
the same even if they look similar and seem to fit. The size and angle
of the flare differs and if it is too small or the wrong angle the lug
nut will not hold the rim properly. If you MUST have the "proper
looking" ones try all the vendors, some of them may have some used
ones in good condition. On other make cars many vendors sell solid
steel lug nuts just because the type with the shell does not last. On
a Lincoln I had I got tired of the shells spinning loose but the solid
ones were pricey.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Over the years the torque monkeys who removed/replaced my wheels
have done their
> toll on the lug nuts causing the chrome cas to separate from the
rest of the
> 







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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 23:41:06 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: This may be a dumb question but,

Ha! I more or less agree with you. My car is certainly a "heart" 
rather that "brain" purchase. All said, I purchased my car for 
$13,000 and put another $1500 into it to make it reliable. I still 
need about $500 in work to make it uber reliable. (see manual 
transmission observation post). The "rule of 20" is slowly catching 
up to me! 

If you buy a project car it is absolutely positively necessary for 
you to do all the work yourself. Believe me, if a shop had done the 
work that I have done myself I would have joined the rule of 20 club 
a long time ago and I started with a drivable car, in fact my wife 
and I drove it from Denver to Los Angeles. In retrospect this was 
very foolish!

 Here is a priority guide for repairs/upgrades that I have been 
following:

Highest priority- mechanical problems/upgrades that affect the 
functionality, reliability, or safety of the car, or could cause 
greater damage ($$$) in the future. (coolant hoses, tune-up, fuel 
system, fluid changes, TABs, brakes, etc)

Medium priority- mechanical issues that do not immediately effect 
reliability or safety. (Fuel accumulator, Steering column bushing, 
window motors, etc)

Lowest priority- anything cosmetic












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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 21:33:26 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: headers - on or off?

 
 
Mark,
 
No I did not get any documentation or anything like that.
To DMCH's credit, they very graciously modified one of the headers to help  
me out with a problem I had with an exhaust manifold stud, and it really  made 
my day to keep me from having to deal with it locally. Aside from some  minor 
gripes about simple things I would expect from a $1500 exhaust system, the  
DMCH performance exhaust appears to be very well made, and is beautifully done  
with the Jet Hot Sterling coating.  I would recommend it to anyone based on  
looks alone if they can afford it.  For me, I tend to go all out, and spare  no 
expense since this car is my toy and really my only hobby, and to get the  
performance exhaust while repairing an exhaust manifold gasket seemed to be the  
logical next step.
 
Andy
 
In a message dated 4/3/2006 9:00:21 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:

Hey  James another owner asking Exhaust questions with your new kit!

I just  had a big discussion with James Espey about this.

Apparently you and i  are the only ones asking questions about 
installation on this kit out of  the over 100 sold.

Anybody else with similar problems?

Andy did  you get the set of sheets that should have been included with 
your exhaust  - one each red and blue half-sheets and a third full size 
yellow  sheet?

Mark V



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 21:34:20 -0400
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: top speed

Andy:

Thanks to my father, who has kept every Road & Track magazine from the early 
1950's until today, I can extract the following from the June, 1981 edition 
of Road & Track...

"The V-6 engine DeLorean buys from Renault has sufficient horsepower to 
speed the DMC along to a top figure of 125 mph, according to the factory.  I 
couldn't verify that under these circumstances, but I'm quite sure I touched 
100 mph occasionally on the longer, straight stretches of motorway."

However, according to the July 1981 edition of Car & Driver the top speed 
was reported to be 120 mph.  The December 1981 edition also reported the 
same 120 mph figure.  And just to throw some more numbers in the pile, the 
May 1981 edition of Car & Driver reported the top speed to be 130 mph 
(according to the manufacturer).

So...  I'd say anything between 120 and 130 is fair game.  :-)

Hope this helps,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 9:01 PM
Subject: [DML] top speed


> Guys in 1981 Road and Track test drove the new Delorean. I am sure
> that someone on this site has this magazine close at hand. They wrote
> a nice review of the car and they listed the top speed they got on a
> race track. I don't recall the exact speed they listed but I think it
> was in the 150's. As I said someone must have this article handy. I
> can tell you for sure that the top end is over 125 stock.
>
> Andy B 3513 






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 21:37:12 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Muffler Paint / AC Water

Hello,
 
Try _www.jet-hot.com_ (http://www.jet-hot.com) .  This is the  same company 
that DMCH works with to get their new exhaust system coated.   It is far 
superior to any kind of paint, and you can go on their site to get a  quote if you 
give them the measurements of the muffler. They regularly deal with  OEM or 
classic parts too.  I'm thinking you can get it coated for less than  $150, but 
go on the site and find out. It will definitely last longer than any  paint.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 18:17:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brush with Death

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that this has happend too.  I replaced my frame last spring.  WHen I went to drive the car I noticed the rear end swayed a bit.  I know I torqued EVERYTHING down to spec as I made a check list.  I drove it like this for about 50 city miles as I worked other things out.  I figured i needed an alignment.  I went to do some brake adjusting in the rear and notice my rear drivers wheel was loose on the hub!  I retorqued it down and now my handling is perfect.
   
  erik
  

Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com> wrote:
  Replying to the "Top Speed" took me back to a near disaster experience
I had a couple weeks ago and the lesson learned.

My present daily driver Delorean is a car I purchased on e-bay 2 years
ago. The car had not been driven in 10 years so I went thru all of the
fuel and fluid systems. As part of the process of rebuilding the rear
brakes I removed the rotors and hubs. It took my impact wrench to
remove the nut that holds the hubs on the axles. During reassembly, I
retorqued the hub/axle nut to spec.

For several months I have felt like the car has not been handling as
well as my previous D, and after checking the wheels for axle movement,
discovered some play in the front axle. I replaced the bearings in
this wheel but still had the feeling of oversteer. I suspected that
the original shocks were the culprit, but I still planned to pull all
of the wheels again to double-check the axles.

Before I "got around" to a second check of the wheels, I experience a
drive train failure while going about 15 mph. When I'd engage the
clutch, there was grinding sound and no movement forward in reverse. 

At my shop, I lifted the rear of the car expecting to find a clutch or
transmission problem. Instead, I discovered an axle nut that was so
loose that the wheel was about to fall off of the car! The splines on
the hub were completely worn away; fortunately, the axle is made of a
harder steel and the splines were still intact on the axle.

The lessons learned or relearned:

1. It's very important to recheck torques after removing/replacing
critical components.
2. When something doesn't seem right on the car, immediately find and
correct the problem before driving the car again, particularly if it
may be related to a drive, suspension or fuel system. This failure
cost me an $80 hub, but it could have cost me my life (see 120 mph post
earlier today). Same thing applies to fuel systems (A local mechanic
was not as lucky when received severe burns as a result of a fire
caused by fuel leaking from a banjo fitting on the fuel distributor of
a Delorean.)




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 01:59:06 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: top speed

If by "racetrack" you mean "off a cliff" a DeLorean might 
make 150mph.  Top speed as quoted by magazines of 
the era were 120-130mph (Car and Driver, May and July
1981) 136mph est (Wheels, June 1981), 117mph measured
(Autocar, June 1981), 109mph measured (Road and Track
December 1981), 120mph estimated (Car and Driver 
December 1981).  There were no cars in any of the 
comparisons (Ferrari 308, Maserati Merak, Corvette, 
Porsche 911) that came closer to 150mph than 140.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "andy" <andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com>: -------------- 


> Guys in 1981 Road and Track test drove the new Delorean. I am sure 
> that someone on this site has this magazine close at hand. They wrote 
> a nice review of the car and they listed the top speed they got on a 
> race track. I don't recall the exact speed they listed but I think it 
> was in the 150's. As I said someone must have this article handy. I 
> can tell you for sure that the top end is over 125 stock. 
> 
> Andy B 3513 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 02:17:31 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Hello from new member!

I echo the suggestion that recommended you read previous posts about 
Delorean One, just type Delorean One in the search area.  Regarding 
price, just take a little while and check out the prices of parts at 
any other vendor, there are great ones out there who will treat you 
right, you'll be surprised at the difference.  But don't let 
Delorean One find out you went to someone elses web site, or even 
thought about it, good heavans, you'd probably get in less trouble 
cheating on your spouse.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean_lady" <delorean_lady_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Just saying hello from Las Vegas!
> 
> Are there any other DeLorean owners in Nevada in this group?
> 
> I've posted some photos of my DeLorean in the group's photos 
section.
> 
> Hubby bought my 1982 DeLorean for me on eBay in 2004.  In November 
> 2005, Ed Bernstein (owner of DeLorean One) picked up my DeLorean 
for 
> some work.  She was in pretty excellent ... but I felt a tad 
nervous 
> driving around Vegas (or anywhere for that matter) on three tires 
that 
> were from 1982!  So, Ed & his crew of DeLorean One replaced a lot 
of 
> old parts and I got her back just a few days ago.  I am very happy 
to 
> know I have Ed & DeLorean One to keep my wheels turning!  Ed says 
my 
> car is in the top 300 in the world - condition-wise.  That makes 
me 
> happy!!!
> 
> ~~ DeLorean Lady
>









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