From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 7:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3188

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brush with Death
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Brush with Death
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

4. top speed
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

5. water leak
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

6. Re: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Hello from new member!
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

8. Re: Brush with Death
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

9. RE: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>

10. Lack of fuel pressure
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

11. PA Caravan to Chicago for DCS
From: "delorean3691" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>

12. Re: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

13. Re: water leak
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. RE: BAE Turbo Documentation
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. NEW Guest for DCS 2006
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

19. 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

20. Re: Hello from new member!
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Raffle car update DCS 2006
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 05:52:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brush with Death

HI Jake,
  Yes, we did use that.  I also remember thinking "wow, 270lbs of torque!?".  No matter what, I think it would always be a good idea to retorque everything again after 100 or so miles if you do any type of suspension work.
   
  Erik
  

Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:
  Did you guys use locktite on the nut when reinstalling? I recently had my rear end apart to fix the ol' DeLorean clunk syndrome and I put locktite on it for reassembly with no issues so far (about 400 miles or so).

I also torqued the bejesus out of the thing :-)

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Geerdink" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Brush with Death


> I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that this has happend too. I 
> replaced my frame last spring. WHen I went to drive the car I noticed the 
> rear end swayed a bit. I know I torqued EVERYTHING down to spec as I made 
> a check list. I drove it like this for about 50 city miles as I worked 
> other things out. I figured i needed an alignment. I went to do some 
> brake adjusting in the rear and notice my rear drivers wheel was loose on 
> the hub! I retorqued it down and now my handling is perfect.
>
> erik
>
>
> Woody wrote:
> Replying to the "Top Speed" took me back to a near disaster experience
> I had a couple weeks ago and the lesson learned.
>
> My present daily driver Delorean is a car I purchased on e-bay 2 years
> ago. The car had not been driven in 10 years so I went thru all of the
> fuel and fluid systems. As part of the process of rebuilding the rear
> brakes I removed the rotors and hubs. It took my impact wrench to
> remove the nut that holds the hubs on the axles. During reassembly, I
> retorqued the hub/axle nut to spec.
>
> For several months I have felt like the car has not been handling as
> well as my previous D, and after checking the wheels for axle movement,
> discovered some play in the front axle. I replaced the bearings in
> this wheel but still had the feeling of oversteer. I suspected that
> the original shocks were the culprit, but I still planned to pull all
> of the wheels again to double-check the axles.
>
> Before I "got around" to a second check of the wheels, I experience a
> drive train failure while going about 15 mph. When I'd engage the
> clutch, there was grinding sound and no movement forward in reverse.
>
> At my shop, I lifted the rear of the car expecting to find a clutch or
> transmission problem. Instead, I discovered an axle nut that was so
> loose that the wheel was about to fall off of the car! The splines on
> the hub were completely worn away; fortunately, the axle is made of a
> harder steel and the splines were still intact on the axle.
>
> The lessons learned or relearned:
>
> 1. It's very important to recheck torques after removing/replacing
> critical components.
> 2. When something doesn't seem right on the car, immediately find and
> correct the problem before driving the car again, particularly if it
> may be related to a drive, suspension or fuel system. This failure
> cost me an $80 hub, but it could have cost me my life (see 120 mph post
> earlier today). Same thing applies to fuel systems (A local mechanic
> was not as lucky when received severe burns as a result of a fire
> caused by fuel leaking from a banjo fitting on the fuel distributor of
> a Delorean.)





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:08:44 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation

Bruce is right on about the timing and the coking.

I drove a DeLorean with a BAE kit and it to didn't seem to be 
spooling up. As it turns out, it had never been rebuilt and was 
probably long overdue. With that in mind, I have heard that the Rajay 
turbos are difficult or troublesome to rebuild, but I cannot comment 
from personal experience.

When you have the turbo off the car, take pictures and measurements 
of it and post the info here.

When you take your turbo to your local specialist, ask them if there 
is a modern turbo that will work for this application. If you can 
find one with the same turbo manifold flange size, then you will save 
yourself a lot of headache. Here is the link to the Rajay section of 
Turbonetics web site (http://www.turboneticsinc.com/turbo_rajay.htm).

Whether you replace or rebuild your turbo, consider installing a 
Turbo Timer (http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?
id=198&pageNum=1) or a Turbo After-Oiler 
(http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_turboiler.htm)

Good luck,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Markus Knöpfle <magrutter_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 
> Many thanks for all your response!!!
> 
> Bruce: You're right, especially in the lower RPM the ignition is 
too early. Guess I spend the next weekend on the turbo.
> 
> Roy: My VIN is 01460
> 
> Markus
> 
> 
> *Von:* dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> *Gesendet:* 03.04.06 18:12:41
> *An:* <DMCNEWS_at_dml_...>
> *Betreff:* Re: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
> 
> 
> When you say it's not working I'd take that to mean you're lacking 
power or 
> not getting any boost. It's been discussed here a zillion times but 
the 
> older turbos like the Rajay used in the BAE kits are susceptible to 
oil 
> coking in the bearing area. Newer turbos use water cooling and even 
space 
> age ceramic bearings but the Rajay floated the center shaft in oil 
routed 
> though the turbo center section from the engine. If the oil was too 
hot at 
> shut down it can turn to coke and block the oil passages preventing 
further 
> lubrication. That's why it's recommended to allow the engine to 
idle for a 
> few minutes before shutting down, especially after running hard. My 
guess 
> from your limited description would be the turbo is no longer 
spinning and 
> needs a rebuild. The car probably lacks power because the 
mechanical advance 
> in the ignition distributor has been modified to limit advance and 
the turbo 
> isn't providing any boost. The advance modification was done to 
prevent 
> pre-ignition, an unfortunate by-product of turbocharging. There are 
several 
> places around the country that can rebuild turbos. Turbonetics in 
California 
> is one good source and I believe they now own the Rajay name. If 
you look 
> for local rebuilders look for diesel repair shops. Almost every 
large diesel 
> engine used in trucks and motorhomes is turbocharged and most will 
rebuild 
> turbochargers.
> 
> Bruce Benson
> 
> 
> -----
> 
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I just bought a '81 DeLorean with the BAE Turbo Kit installed.
> > Unfortunally it seems like its not working.
> > Does anybody have the Dokumentation (Installation Instruction, 
Drawings) 
> > of the BAE Turbo Kit and can tell we what parts i need to remove 
it and 
> > check the engine without turbo?
> >
> > TY
> >
> > Markus Knoepfle
> > 156 Sea Street
> > Virginia Beach, VA 23451
>








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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 10:53:44 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Brush with Death

When we bought electric computerized multi-spindled lug nut tooling for the 
Ranger trucks we needed to overcome a phenomena  regarding the clamping load 
on multi- fastener installations. When, for example, you torque one lug nut 
first and then progressively tighten each one, the clamp load will relax on 
the first ones tightened.. Our multi-spindles were programmed to do a 
pre-torque and then, after all the lugs were tight, apply a re-torque 
sequence to account for this. In some types of installations even this isn't 
good enough and on those tools an degree of angle was added to the sequence. 
Cylinder head installations are a good example of using angle after torque. 
The idea behind all of this is to maintain the required clamp load evenly 
across the whole joint. It's important when tightening lug nuts to follow a 
pattern of tightening the nuts a little at a time and doing nuts opposite 
each other in sequence rather than working around the wheel in a clock like 
manner.

Bruce Benson


> I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that this has happend too.  I 
> replaced my frame last spring.  WHen I went to drive the car I noticed the 
> rear end swayed a bit.  I know I torqued EVERYTHING down to spec as I made 
> a check list.  I drove it like this for about 50 city miles as I worked 
> other things out.  I figured i needed an alignment.  I went to do some 
> brake adjusting in the rear and notice my rear drivers wheel was loose on 
> the hub!  I retorqued it down and now my handling is perfect.
>
>  erik





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 09:33:29 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: top speed

Everybody would like bragging rights to top speed. 

When I had it, my single Bae turbo DeLorean did 210 and had more to go, but I quit at that. My current DeLorean has turned 195 + a bit ---- fast enough for me --------of course this is KPH not MPH. Maybe Canadian roads are downhill? (LOL)

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/300 - Release Date: 4/3/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 17:28:04 +0100
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: water leak

Hi,

 

This is really stumped me and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

I have recently renewed the fuel pump setup (new boot and cover) and after
tightening everything up noticed the rubber boot would fill up with fuel
over time (few days)  I have taken it apart several times and at long last
seem to have it sorted (replaced all circular clips and also put one on
every single hose in and around the fuel pump.

 

The leak seems to have stopped but I not find that the boot appears to be
filling up with water, when I soak it up it has a very faint smell of petrol
so is perhaps a mix of the two but there does not seem to be any leaks in
the petrol but cant check fully until I get the water leak sorted.

 

I at first thought it may be condensation on the underside of the fuel boot
cover or that it may be getting in from a cut I had to make in the cover to
get the lines through but this has been well sealed up.

 

Any ideas where the water may be coming from cos its really doing my head
in.

 

I also have a water leak getting into the two foot wells but haven’t had a
chance to try and source this one yet.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

Belfast #2493

 




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 08:04:49 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation

In the lower rpm ranges most of the advance is VACUUM advance, not 
mechanical advance. Installing a BAE kit should not affect vacuum advance at 
all. The modifications made to the distributor to limit mechanical advance, 
if done properly according to the BAE instructions, will only affect the 
advance curve beginning around 3500 rpm.

If you do, in fact, have too much advance at low speeds (below 3500 rpm) 
look elsewhere for the problem(s).

As soon as the throttle is opened slightly above idle, the idle switch will 
cause vacuum advance to be applied. You will see about 20 degrees of vacuum 
advance right away. That advance decreases as the throttle is opened, but as 
it decreases mechanical advance comes in. There are two stages of mechanical 
advance on the DeLorean.

Before doing anything to change the advance you may want to map the advance 
curve by using an advance timing light to take advance measurements every 
500 rpm. It could be that advance is part of your problem, but it would be 
better to know for sure before you start chasing read herrings!

-Joe Kuchan

>From: Markus Knöpfle <magrutter_at_dml_web.de>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
>Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 04:51:39 +0200
>
>
>Many thanks for all your response!!!
>
>Bruce: You're right, especially in the lower RPM the ignition is too early. 
>Guess I spend the next weekend on the turbo.
>
>Roy: My VIN is 01460
>
>Markus
>
>
>*Von:* dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>*Gesendet:* 03.04.06 18:12:41
>*An:* <DMCNEWS_at_dml_YAHOOGROUPS.COM>
>*Betreff:* Re: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
>
>
>When you say it's not working I'd take that to mean you're lacking power or
>not getting any boost. It's been discussed here a zillion times but the
>older turbos like the Rajay used in the BAE kits are susceptible to oil
>coking in the bearing area. Newer turbos use water cooling and even space
>age ceramic bearings but the Rajay floated the center shaft in oil routed
>though the turbo center section from the engine. If the oil was too hot at
>shut down it can turn to coke and block the oil passages preventing further
>lubrication. 




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:29:57 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Hello from new member!

Congratulations, you have a great looking car. I hope your old tires 
were retired.

If you're in Las Vegas, then you're in great company. The Arizona 
DeLorean Club has some terrific members in Las Vegas.

Join the AZ-D Yahoo Group and arrange a get together 
(http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/az-d/).

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean_lady" <delorean_lady_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Just saying hello from Las Vegas!
> 
> Are there any other DeLorean owners in Nevada in this group?
> 
> I've posted some photos of my DeLorean in the group's photos 
section.
> 
> Hubby bought my 1982 DeLorean for me on eBay in 2004.  In November 
> 2005, Ed Bernstein (owner of DeLorean One) picked up my DeLorean 
for 
> some work.  She was in pretty excellent ... but I felt a tad 
nervous 
> driving around Vegas (or anywhere for that matter) on three tires 
that 
> were from 1982!  So, Ed & his crew of DeLorean One replaced a lot 
of 
> old parts and I got her back just a few days ago.  I am very happy 
to 
> know I have Ed & DeLorean One to keep my wheels turning!  Ed says 
my 
> car is in the top 300 in the world - condition-wise.  That makes me 
> happy!!!
> 
> ~~ DeLorean Lady
>








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 08:05:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brush with Death

Jake,

I considered applying Loctite but did not because of the high torque
necessary to remove the nut and concerns about applying heat so close
to the rear bearings (as is generally necessary with the high-strength
threadlockers).   However, it probably would be a good idea to use a
low or medium strength threadlocker at this location to prevent loosing
and prevent corrosion at the threads without having to use heat to
break the bond.  Perhaps more important is the rechecking of torque
while still on the jacks and again after a few hundred miles.

Any suggestions from the full time pro's?




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 13:21:03 -0500
From: "Emory Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: BAE Turbo Documentation

That turbo timer reminds me of the one that is on all the EMD locomotives.
If you shut down the prime mover (the diesel engine) there is a turbo lube
pump that runs for about an hour to run oil thru the turbo to cool it down.
Granted, you don’t often shut down a locomotive, but when you do, I don’t
think they want the turbo to seize up either.

Emory Lehman
(Locomotive Engineer)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of captain_hydrogen
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:09 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
> 
> Bruce is right on about the timing and the coking.
> 
> I drove a DeLorean with a BAE kit and it to didn't seem to be
> spooling up. As it turns out, it had never been rebuilt and was
> probably long overdue. With that in mind, I have heard that the Rajay
> turbos are difficult or troublesome to rebuild, but I cannot comment
> from personal experience.
> 
> When you have the turbo off the car, take pictures and measurements
> of it and post the info here.
> 
> When you take your turbo to your local specialist, ask them if there
> is a modern turbo that will work for this application. If you can
> find one with the same turbo manifold flange size, then you will save
> yourself a lot of headache. Here is the link to the Rajay section of
> Turbonetics web site (http://www.turboneticsinc.com/turbo_rajay.htm).
> 
> Whether you replace or rebuild your turbo, consider installing a
> Turbo Timer (http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?
> id=8&pageNum==1) or a Turbo After-Oiler
> (http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_turboiler.htm)
> 
> Good luck,
> Ben Ferguson
> Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365
> 

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 11:34:46 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Lack of fuel pressure

My car was spitting and sputtering lately and showing a general lack  
of power like it was starving for fuel. After dealing with a tank of  
bad fuel that had several gallons of water in it last fall I thought  
that  maybe the fuel filter was plugged so I changed it out yesterday.

Even after changing the filter the car ran the same so I popped the  
injectors out of one head and stuck them in soda bottles and jumped  
the fuel pump. Two out of three seemed fine with one barely spraying.  
Damn! those injectors are only two years old and have about 200 miles  
on them.  I pulled the injectors off and tapped them a few times to  
see if I could dislodge any chunks of crud out of them, put them back  
on and jumped the fuel pump again.

This time there was no spray or even dribbles coming out of them. I  
can hear a whoosing sound of fuel going through the CPR and back to  
the tank. I pulled the injectors off the lines and stuck the lines in  
soda bottles and jumped the pump again. This time with the air meter  
pressed down all the way there is barely a trickle of fuel coming out  
of the lines.

So what gives? The CPR is a rebuilt one that is about 2 years old,  
fuel pump is a year old, fuel filter is new, injectors 2 years. I  
can't imagine what is going on here. Anyone able to help?




Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 19:08:45 -0000
From: "delorean3691" <bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: PA Caravan to Chicago for DCS

I'm driving to Chicago Wednesday (June 14th) afternoon from Pittsburgh, PA. I'll probably 
leave around noon and want to make to out there around the evening. If anyone is interested 
in meeting up and caravanning, please let me know!

Tiffany Olejnik
Vin#3691








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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 21:40:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation

The turbo timer and the pressure lubricator systems were necessary
before the improved synthetic oils were available. Coking is not the
big problem it used to be if you use a branded synthetic oil and
change it often. You should also let the motor run for a moment before
shutting it off on a hot day right after a high speed run. Newer
turbos have their bearings water cooled to also help prevent coking.
Turbos do not last forever. The outlet for the motor intake should be
checked regularly for evidence of oil leakage past the turbo seals,
that is one of the first signs that the turbo is in need of service.
Besides the bearings wearing and the rotors not turning you also need
to make sure the wastegate moves freely. If it gets stuck open you
won't get any boost and if it gets stuck closed you will overboost the
motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Emory  Lehman" <elehman3_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> That turbo timer reminds me of the one that is on all the EMD
locomotives.
> If you shut down the prime mover (the diesel engine) there is a
turbo lube
> pump that runs for about an hour to run oil thru the turbo to cool
it down.
> Granted, you don't often shut down a locomotive, but when you do, I
don't
> think they want the turbo to seize up either.
> 
> Emory Lehman
> (Locomotive Engineer)
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf
> > Of captain_hydrogen
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:09 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
> > 
> > Bruce is right on about the timing and the coking.
> > 
> > I drove a DeLorean with a BAE kit and it to didn't seem to be
> > spooling up. As it turns out, it had never been rebuilt and was
> > probably long overdue. With that in mind, I have heard that the Rajay
> > turbos are difficult or troublesome to rebuild, but I cannot comment
> > from personal experience.
> > 
> > When you have the turbo off the car, take pictures and measurements
> > of it and post the info here.
> > 
> > When you take your turbo to your local specialist, ask them if there
> > is a modern turbo that will work for this application. If you can
> > find one with the same turbo manifold flange size, then you will save
> > yourself a lot of headache. Here is the link to the Rajay section of
> > Turbonetics web site (http://www.turboneticsinc.com/turbo_rajay.htm).
> > 
> > Whether you replace or rebuild your turbo, consider installing a
> > Turbo Timer (http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?
> > id=198&pageNum=1) or a Turbo After-Oiler
> > (http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_turboiler.htm)
> > 
> > Good luck,
> > Ben Ferguson
> > Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365
> > 
> 
> [very long quote trimmed by moderator]
>










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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 21:45:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: water leak

It is easy to tell if it is fuel and water. The two won't mix, you
will see them separate. If it is only fuel you may have to replace the
copper seals and retighten. If it is water it could be from the A/C
drain running over the top of the boot and into the inside boot. If
you do see water by the fuel pump you should look inside the fuel tank
and make sure there is no water rolling around on the bottom. It will
look like a bubble floating on the bottom of the tank. In such a case
the tank should be drained and wiped out. You should not have had to
cut the cover boot to install it. It can be very dangerous to have ANY
fuel leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> This is really stumped me and any suggestions will be greatly
appreciated.
> 
>  
> 
> I have recently renewed the fuel pump setup (new boot and cover) and
after
> tightening everything up noticed the rubber boot would fill up with fuel
> 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 18:53:04 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: BAE Turbo Documentation

For those who may have missed my earlier post, the BAE turbo installation 
manual is already uploaded to the files section. Look for the folder titled 
"BAE Turbo". I uploaded this many, many months ago.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: "DMCNEWS" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] BAE Turbo Documentation
>Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 16:54:26 -0500
>
>How about scanning the manuals and posting them on the DMCNEWS website.
>
>Scott
>002981
>
>Message: 20
>    Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 10:36:31 EDT
>    From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
>Subject: Re: BAE Turbo Documentation
>
>
>What is the vin on your Delorean?  I know that there are only a few  out
>there.  I've never taken mine off or tried to modify it, perhaps  someone 
>else
>has.  I have the original installation manual and can make a  copy for you. 
>  A
>key element of the Turbo is to let it heat up prior to  taking off.  At 
>least
>this is what the original owner told me.
>
>Roy
>00893
>
>In a message dated 4/3/2006 10:01:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>magrutter_at_dml_web.de writes:
>
>I just  bought a '81 DeLorean with the BAE Turbo Kit installed.
>Unfortunally it  seems like its not working.
>
>Scott
>







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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 23:54:53 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

Interesting problem,

I had a similar issue with my car. I had all the injectors out and 
with the fuel pump jumped I would not get any spray until I would 
hear this pop from the fuel distributor (primary pressure regulator 
engaging, usually 30-40 seconds after I engaged the pump) It turned 
out that my entire system was taking too long to reach operating 
pressure because fuel was leaking from the accumulator back into the 
return line. I plugged the return line and the fuel pressure problem 
went away, long story short I need a new accumulator. 

If you jump the fuel pump you should hear a clunk from the engine 
compartment confirming that the primary pressure regulator is 
engaging once primary pressure is reached. If it is not engaging 
then it could be stuck or if it engages only after a while you could 
have the problem I mentioned earlier. Other things to look for would 
be kinks in the lines especially the pickup line in the tank.  

Good luck, I know how darn frustrating fuel problems are. 

Nathan
2277



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My car was spitting and sputtering lately and showing a general 
lack  
> of power like it was starving for fuel. After dealing with a tank 
of  
> bad fuel that had several gallons of water in it last fall I 
thought  
> that  maybe the fuel filter was plugged so I changed it out 
yesterday.
> 
> Even after changing the filter the car ran the same so I popped 
the  
> injectors out of one head and stuck them in soda bottles and 
jumped  
> the fuel pump. Two out of three seemed fine with one barely 
spraying.  
> Damn! those injectors are only two years old and have about 200 
miles  
> on them.  I pulled the injectors off and tapped them a few times 
to  
> see if I could dislodge any chunks of crud out of them, put them 
back  
> on and jumped the fuel pump again.
> 
> This time there was no spray or even dribbles coming out of them. 
I  
> can hear a whoosing sound of fuel going through the CPR and back 
to  
> the tank. I pulled the injectors off the lines and stuck the lines 
in  
> soda bottles and jumped the pump again. This time with the air 
meter  
> pressed down all the way there is barely a trickle of fuel coming 
out  
> of the lines.
> 
> So what gives? The CPR is a rebuilt one that is about 2 years 
old,  
> fuel pump is a year old, fuel filter is new, injectors 2 years. I  
> can't imagine what is going on here. Anyone able to help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phil Priestley
> 
> Vin 2105
> IN FLUX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 17:05:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

Phil,

You need to insure that fuel is making it's way all
the way back to the engine.  Water will totally ruin a
Delorean fuel pump in less than two months.  (Just ask
Josh Porter)

It may sound like everything is working, but you need
to check to make sure fuel is getting to the engine.

Pop the line off the fuel distributor and jumper the
pump.  You should be able to fill up a quart jar in
about 10-20 seconds.  If it doesn't, then go back to
the fuel pump outlet and perform the same check. 
You've got a "clog' somewhere, and you can bet it was
the water in the system that caused it.  Let me know
if this helps.

Mike


--- Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com> wrote:

> My car was spitting and sputtering lately and
> showing a general lack  
> of power like it was starving for fuel. After
> dealing with a tank of  
> bad fuel that had several gallons of water in it
> last fall I thought  
> that  maybe the fuel filter was plugged so I changed
> it out yesterday.
> 
> Even after changing the filter the car ran the same
> so I popped the  
> injectors out of one head and stuck them in soda
> bottles and jumped  
> the fuel pump. Two out of three seemed fine with one
> barely spraying.  
> Damn! those injectors are only two years old and
> have about 200 miles  
> on them.  I pulled the injectors off and tapped them
> a few times to  
> see if I could dislodge any chunks of crud out of
> them, put them back  
> on and jumped the fuel pump again.
> 
> This time there was no spray or even dribbles coming
> out of them. I  
> can hear a whoosing sound of fuel going through the
> CPR and back to  
> the tank. I pulled the injectors off the lines and
> stuck the lines in  
> soda bottles and jumped the pump again. This time
> with the air meter  
> pressed down all the way there is barely a trickle
> of fuel coming out  
> of the lines.
> 
> So what gives? The CPR is a rebuilt one that is
> about 2 years old,  
> fuel pump is a year old, fuel filter is new,
> injectors 2 years. I  
> can't imagine what is going on here. Anyone able to
> help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phil Priestley
> 
> Vin 2105
> IN FLUX




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 01:00:43 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak

Group,

I am happy to report VIN 04421 lives again after a successful fuel
accumulator changeout.  During the changeout, one of the fuel hoses
literally crumbled apart in my hand.  That would have been a safety
hazard.  The fuel hose was replaced.  

I also swapped in a new oxygen sensor because 04421 had a rough idle
problem at start up.  But the rough idle sympton is still there with
the new sensor.  The old oxygen sensor I swapped out had less than
3000 miles on it.

So after studying section D of the workshop manual, it looks vacuum
leak is the culprit.  I also have white smoke coming out of exhaust. 
So the 2000 dollar question is: how do I check
for vacuum leak?  There is a "propane" method to check for leaks, but
would prefer a safer method.  Should I put pressure gauge on my
shopping list?

Thanks.


Steve
04421   








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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 21:19:15 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: NEW Guest for DCS 2006

We have been talking lately to James Tolkan and he has agreed to join us in  
Chicago
For those of you who do not recognize the name he is the person that played  
the role of Strickland in the movie BTTF.  He also played in Top Gun and  
number of other movies.
 
I can really say that of all the people I have talked to about the show he  
has been the most enthusiastic and is looking forward to meeting all  of you.
 
He will be there at least Friday and Saturday and will be helping with the  
show as well.
 
He now lives in NY and we will be putting up more information as it  comes.
 
James is looking forward to seeing all of you and your DeLoreans
 
Remember NO SLACKERS.
 
Ken
 
 
Typical disclaimer:
As is true with any of the guests we do not have any contracts James Tolkan  
so as is the same with Claudia or Jeffrey. Without a contract we cannot  
guarantee any of the guests.  DCS will continue to try to bring you  the best in 
guest we can.
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 21:23:36 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!

Well it is official now.  We just got back home with 16879 from DMCF
after $7k worth of work.  Entire new fuel system, hoses, brakes, tuning,
stainless work, new DMCH 2 Tone Leather seats, tires, motor mounts...
etc.  Now both 3461 and 16879 are road worthy, clean, shiny, ding free,
blended, new tires, and in running order!!!!

If you recall 16879 was my wife's Anniversary present in October, and 6
months later she took it for a spin round the block after I drove 3
hours home with it.  I must say DMCF did a great job on the stainless
(few small dings and some corrosion), and the repair work.  I am sad to
say (sometimes), but 16879 is now in equal to better shape than 3461
lol.  A few small issues(cracked binnacle--Ken/Josh what do you do about
these now, new gear shift boot and refinished wheels) and it will be a
show winner like its older brother.  

I never thought I would have 2 D's in this condition in my garage.
Other than the cracked Binnacle I would probably take 16879 to shows
now.

Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
DMC Vin 03461 & 16879
www.fmtimemachine.com
 






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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 02:15:12 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hello from new member!

Greetings from a fellow Las Vegas owner!  

I got my D in May of 2005 from Bakersfield, CA.  The previous owner 
also used DeLorean One for his parts and maintenance.  He had 
overhauled major portions of the car just before I bought it.

While I can't say the last year has been trouble free, I drive my 
DeLorean about 25 miles a day. Ed appears to have done good work.
Hopefully you will also have many trouble-free miles.

If not, Al Owens (Owens Automotive on Mojave) is DMC trained and 
could save you from sending your car out-of-state each time it needs 
help. Al came to me highly recommended by other local owners and the 
limited work I've had done there (brake master cylinder and fuel 
filter) was done quite promptly at a fair price.

Cameron Dingler, another owner here in town, is far more of a 
mechanic than I and can probably also help you diagnose, and possibly 
repair, many issues.

Be sure to watch for postings from the Arizona DeLorean Club if you'd 
like to meet up with us at any of our events here or in Arizona.  We 
make trips each way from time-to-time.  You can also check out our 
Yahoo message board at az-d.org.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean_lady" <delorean_lady_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Just saying hello from Las Vegas!
> 
> Are there any other DeLorean owners in Nevada in this group?
> 
> I've posted some photos of my DeLorean in the group's photos 
section.
> 
> Hubby bought my 1982 DeLorean for me on eBay in 2004.  In November 
> 2005, Ed Bernstein (owner of DeLorean One) picked up my DeLorean 
for 
> some work.  She was in pretty excellent ... but I felt a tad 
nervous 
> driving around Vegas (or anywhere for that matter) on three tires 
that 
> were from 1982!  So, Ed & his crew of DeLorean One replaced a lot 
of 
> old parts and I got her back just a few days ago.  I am very happy 
to 
> know I have Ed & DeLorean One to keep my wheels turning!  Ed says 
my 
> car is in the top 300 in the world - condition-wise.  That makes me 
> happy!!!
> 
> ~~ DeLorean Lady
>









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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 22:29:29 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car update DCS 2006

Well the raffle car was taken to Chicago and we replaced the computer  
governor module and guess what it works fine.  Car is nice and peppy again  and runs 
real well.
 
I don't have a lot to do on this car before the show.
 
What I still have to do is to replace the antenna,
I am looking for the brand and a place to buy a replacement mast.
The one I want is the one with the stainless antenna.  I like this one  
because it goes up and down real fast and it mounts almost exactly like the  
original.  If anyone knows the brand I would appreciate it.  I know it  sells on 
e-bay but I did not find it when I looked.
Any help here would be appreciated.
 
 (Ray if you are out there can you tell me the brand please I replaced  yours 
with the one I want)
 
The only things I plan to do is to replace the weather strip and I will do  
that just before the show, replace the antenna, touch up a few minor body 
flaws,  fix one of the rear emergency brake cables, do a little frame touch up, and 
 clean up the interior,
 
This car really did not need a lot of work like the last car did,
It starts well, runs well and I have used it to drive around for about 3000  
miles so it has been road tested.  I will run it for May and June up until  
the show.
 
Also 3M and Randall Brown will be doing a re graining session and they will  
do it on the raffle car Saturday at the DCS show so the car should be LOOKING  
REAL GOOD by the time the winner is called.
 
So far (this is a rough number) about 60% of the tickets sold are from  
people not registered for the show.
It would be nice to see the winner at the show.
I would love to just hand you the keys on stage,
 
The car has had the engine and trans refurbished, brakes,refurbished  
interior (original except dash is recovered), NEW leather seats,  New  powder coated 
wheels, new tires, repainted fascias.
 
Its ready to roll.
 
If you ever decide not to want the raffle I could always keep the  car.  This 
car has convinced me to consider and automatic. Its fun to  drive.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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