From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:22 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3189

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. 10440 for sale
From: "lpland2004" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

2. Re: 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

3. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. Bosch style thermotime switch
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Early production prototype rear fascia
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

6. Re: VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Axle nut/socket size?
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

8. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

9. Re: Raffle car update DCS 2006
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

10. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Axle nut/socket size?
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

12. Re: Axle nut/socket size?
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

13. Front end alignment specs
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

14. Fixed Sat Nav - help please
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

15. Re: Axle nut/socket size?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

16. Re: Re: Raffle car update DCS 2006
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: Axle nut/socket size?
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

18. Re: top speed
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Bosch style thermotime switch
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

20. Page not found
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>

21. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Re: top speed
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Lack of fuel pressure
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

24. Original NCT Rear Tires - Sell or Trade
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Early production prototype rear fascia
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 03:04:23 -0000
From: "lpland2004" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: 10440 for sale

After a lot of soul-seaching, I've decided to sell my D.  It's a great car for someone who wants a running project car.  I've driven it fairly regularly but it's time to pass it along to someone who might actually finish restoring it.  The car is in Arizona and has about 58K miles.  Will entertain offers in the $14K range.

..................LP
10440

WORK DONE
*replaced fuel pump, pump boot, baffle, support bracket, filter *Toby TABs *thermostat and otterstat *new struts all around *driver window rebonded to sash *water pump *replaced all cooling hoses and plumbing *radiator recored with hi efficiency core *SpecialT fan fix
* air bleeder for radiator
* new Optima red top battery
* alternator 90amp rebuilt
* r/r fuel sending unit




WILL THROW IN
*a bag of fir trees
*left rear tail lens to replace the faded one *orig Delorean paperwork, manual and vinyl manual cover, brochure, etc.
*service manuals and parts manual


HAS
orig window sticker
all safety recall mods
stainless reservoir bottle
almost new good tires

PROBLEMS
shifting into first gear takes a little finesse
hairline crack water jacket that needs welded by someone who knows
what he's doing
*a/c compressor probably leaks.  runs on R-12
heater doesn't work
needs accumulator
failed emissions inspection last week
boot cable broken
pass side marker lens broken (oops!)

INTERIOR COSMETICS
needs new seat covers unless you like the cheap fake fur ones I 
have.  orig
leather is trashed.
dash cracked
binnacle cracked
no radio
orig window control buttons replaced with aftermarket ones
cargo net not attached
drivers' door panel and headliner panel not attached.  but I'll give 
you the
fir trees
carpet dirty but salvageable
amazingly the headlight switch WORKS!!
needs headliner
A and B pillars (I think this is what they're called) have come loose 
and are
warped
no interior lights work
windshield sloppily installed with black glue showing at edges but no 
leaks

A FEW PLUSSES
the spare tire is original and seems to hold air
the frame is free of rust
all guages work altho gas guage can be funky
windows work
horn works, altho very softly
wipers work
headlights work
mode switch works
body looks great with only one or two tiny dings















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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 09:12:26 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!

Sounds great! I would love to send my car to one of these vendors to have a refurbishment!
   
  Could you send me pics of the interior with the two tone seats? I cant decide whether to go back to black, or get the new ones.
   
  Thanks
  Thomas McAuley
  Vin #4087
  Belfast

Jack Stiefel <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com> wrote:
  Well it is official now. We just got back home with 16879 from DMCF
after $7k worth of work. Entire new fuel system, hoses, brakes, tuning,
stainless work, new DMCH 2 Tone Leather seats, tires, motor mounts...
etc. Now both 3461 and 16879 are road worthy, clean, shiny, ding free,
blended, new tires, and in running order!!!!

If you recall 16879 was my wife's Anniversary present in October, and 6
months later she took it for a spin round the block after I drove 3
hours home with it. I must say DMCF did a great job on the stainless
(few small dings and some corrosion), and the repair work. I am sad to
say (sometimes), but 16879 is now in equal to better shape than 3461
lol. A few small issues(cracked binnacle--Ken/Josh what do you do about
these now, new gear shift boot and refinished wheels) and it will be a
show winner like its older brother. 

I never thought I would have 2 D's in this condition in my garage.
Other than the cracked Binnacle I would probably take 16879 to shows
now.

Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
DMC Vin 03461 & 16879
www.fmtimemachine.com




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 03:05:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

I always advise you start in the fuel tank. Dirt, water, a kinked
suction hose, these things can cause you all kinds of trouble
including the symptoms you have. There is no sense worrying about the
fuel filter or the injectors if the tank still has crud in it. If you
had a tankfull of water you KNOW you have to clean it out. It should
be spotless in there. Any crud will eventually work it's way into your
system and cause you a problem eventually. Since the system
recirculates the crud will all get into the components and cause
trouble. The pump may be bad now that the water got it. The Bosch
K-Jet system is very reliable UNTIL it gets dirty. Like any mecahnical
fuel injection system it does not tolerate dirt (or water) well.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My car was spitting and sputtering lately and showing a general lack  
> of power like it was starving for fuel. After dealing with a tank of  
> bad fuel that had several gallons of water in it last fall I thought  
> that  maybe the fuel filter was plugged so I changed it out yesterday.
> 
> Even after changing the filter the car ran the same so I popped the  
> injectors out of one head and stuck them in soda bottles and jumped  
> the fuel pump. Two out of three seemed fine with one barely spraying.  








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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 11:20:37 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Bosch style thermotime switch

Hi All

Just a note on the thermotime switch.

For those who aren't aware, this is the brown sensor that screws into 
the top of the water pump and has a little 2-pin white connector under a 
black boot plugged into it. This sensor is well known for breaking the 
brown casing off the plug. The original sensor was a VDO part but Bosch 
also make one that is much more robust. The general wisdom I was given 
many moons ago is that the plug will still fit. It does, but with one 
problem, which has had me scratching my head for several days recently 
and just goes to show how when you're trained to do something, you're 
also trained to make assumptions....!

The thermotime switch must not be plugged in backwards, and if using a 
bosch type switch, it is quite easy to do this. I assumed it didn't 
matter which way it was plugged in (it's just a switch, right!?). The 
result if backwards will be very hard starting from cold, though 
curiously not a short circuit as the manual suggests

Best Wishes

Martin








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 03:39:22 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Early production prototype rear fascia

I had seen a picture of a DeLorean what seemed to be in the factory 
with a rear fascia that extended below the ones we have. It covered 
the oil pan only exposing the exhaust tips. I am not talking about the 
kits that are out there, this was a true factory looking streamline 
stock looking set up.
I would love it if someone could point out where there are some 
photos. 

Thanks for your help.

Byron


Byron








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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 11:12:50 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak

Hello from #4426!

This will cheer you up - this was 4426's engine when I bought the car

http://www.delorean.co.uk/Dscn0498a.jpg

Now looks like this

http://www.delorean.co.uk/Resources/new_engine.jpg

I've had a few issues with the engine but actually got it running 
properly yesterday (knew the problem would be something daft). A vacuum 
leak large enough to cause running problems will create a high idle if 
the mixture is adjusted rich. You need to check your vacuum hose routing 
as per the sticker on the engine cover, or here

http://lukesandel.com/auto/delorean/labels/Vacuum_Routing.jpg

Best Wishes

Martin
DMC Ltd
#1458
#4426

Steve wrote:

>Group,
>
>I am happy to report VIN 04421 lives again after a successful fuel
>accumulator changeout.  
>
>
>Steve
>04421   
>
>  
>







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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 10:22:43 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Axle nut/socket size?

I know I'm making a stupid mistake somewhere here.

The DMCH website says I can remove my axle nut (for angle drive
replacement) with a 32mm socket.  That specific socket has proven hard
to find, but when 32mm is converted to SAE it comes out to 1.259 inches.
My 1 1/4" socket should fit a bit snugly, but its no where close.

First, I assume the basic issue is that one can't just convert mm to
inches and expect sockets to fit because ___________  (fill in the blank
- Metric measures the larger diameter tip to tip on the bolt where SAE
measures the distance between parallel faces?)

So where do I get a socket that fits?  No luck at either Pep Boys or
Lowes.

Tom






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 13:01:06 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

I pulled the main line off the FD and am getting good pressure  and  
flow there so the "clog"  would almost have to be in the FD. I'm not  
sure where to go from here.

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX



On Apr 4, 2006, at 5:05 PM, mike clemens wrote:


>
> It may sound like everything is working, but you need
> to check to make sure fuel is getting to the engine.
>
> Pop the line off the fuel distributor and jumper the
> pump.  You should be able to fill up a quart jar in
> about 10-20 seconds.  If it doesn't, then go back to
> the fuel pump outlet and perform the same check.
> You've got a "clog' somewhere, and you can bet it was
> the water in the system that caused it.  Let me know
> if this helps.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 18:51:02 -0000
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Re: Raffle car update DCS 2006

Thanks go our to Ryan for posting this on his memfrag site (see post
from Ryan on or around 12/26/05)

The antenna is a Legacy LN46 - Teptronics.com has it got $18 - I found
it elswehere for about $12 - Works great.

Tom

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_... wrote:
>

> What I still have to do is to replace the antenna,
> I am looking for the brand and a place to buy a replacement mast.
> The one I want is the one with the stainless antenna.  I like this one  
> because it goes up and down real fast and it mounts almost exactly
like the  
> original.  If anyone knows the brand I would appreciate it.  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 20:43:55 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

Could it be a stuck primary pressure regulator? I guess this is rare 
but if crap passed through the FD i suppose anything is possible. 

Nathan
2277

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I pulled the main line off the FD and am getting good pressure  
and  
> flow there so the "clog"  would almost have to be in the FD. I'm 
not  
> sure where to go from here.
> 
> Phil Priestley
> 
> Vin 2105
> IN FLUX
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 4, 2006, at 5:05 PM, mike clemens wrote:
> 
> 
> >
> > It may sound like everything is working, but you need
> > to check to make sure fuel is getting to the engine.
> >
> > Pop the line off the fuel distributor and jumper the
> > pump.  You should be able to fill up a quart jar in
> > about 10-20 seconds.  If it doesn't, then go back to
> > the fuel pump outlet and perform the same check.
> > You've got a "clog' somewhere, and you can bet it was
> > the water in the system that caused it.  Let me know
> > if this helps.
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 16:08:58 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Axle nut/socket size?

You may have the later 36mm nuts on the outside of the hub.  The inner 
nut that holds the angle drive will still be 1 1/4".
Warren at DMC



Tom Tait wrote:
> I know I'm making a stupid mistake somewhere here.
> 
> The DMCH website says I can remove my axle nut (for angle drive
> replacement) with a 32mm socket.  That specific socket has proven hard
> to find, but when 32mm is converted to SAE it comes out to 1.259 inches.
> My 1 1/4" socket should fit a bit snugly, but its no where close.
> 
> First, I assume the basic issue is that one can't just convert mm to
> inches and expect sockets to fit because ___________  (fill in the blank
> - Metric measures the larger diameter tip to tip on the bolt where SAE
> measures the distance between parallel faces?)
> 
> So where do I get a socket that fits?  No luck at either Pep Boys or
> Lowes.
> 
> Tom




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 13:48:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Axle nut/socket size?

 
   
  Look at an auto parts chain like Autozone (I'm surprised Pep Boys didn't have it).  I got an "impact quality" socket for about $10.  Tell them you're looking for an axle nut socket.  They had the 32MM for my DeLorean, a 36MM for my normal car, and an assortment of others.
   
  Jake
   
  

Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com> wrote:
  I know I'm making a stupid mistake somewhere here.

The DMCH website says I can remove my axle nut (for angle drive
replacement) with a 32mm socket. That specific socket has proven hard
to find, but when 32mm is converted to SAE it comes out to 1.259 inches.
My 1 1/4" socket should fit a bit snugly, but its no where close.

First, I assume the basic issue is that one can't just convert mm to
inches and expect sockets to fit because ___________ (fill in the blank
- Metric measures the larger diameter tip to tip on the bolt where SAE
measures the distance between parallel faces?)

So where do I get a socket that fits? No luck at either Pep Boys or
Lowes.

Tom





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 21:26:10 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Front end alignment specs

I am having my front end aligned tomorrow, but couldn't find the specs 
in the manual (I did see the rear toe-in alignment numbers but not the 
front end).  Can someone point me to specs I can email my mechanic 
tomorrow?

Thanks,

Paul








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 22:25:36 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Fixed Sat Nav - help please

I am looking at installing a fixed Sat Nav system. Most (the best) don’t
just rely on GPS for the fix but also make use of a gyroscope and also a
‘pulse’.  Each revolution of the car wheel with a transducer will send a
signal to which the Alpine (entire range) Sat Nav counts the pulses to
assist with the vehicles speed etc.  The Sat Nav would have one wire
requiring for it to be fitted to the modern cars pulse sensor.
Unsurprisingly the DeLorean is lacking here but Alpine tech support gave the
following company link HYPERLINK
"http://www.sailesmarketing.com/"www.sailesmarketing.com as a potential
solution.

 

Universal fitting suggests cutting the speedo cable in two.

HYPERLINK
"http://www.sailesmarketing.com/searchdetails.asp?ID==8"http://www.sailesmark
eting.com/searchdetails.asp?ID==8

 

I see no need with cutting as the upper AND lower speedo cables meet with
the lambda counter? near the pedal box and this would be the perfect
junction point.

 

I am curious has anyone out there already fitted a ‘pulse’ solution and if
so what is the thread size for the connection point to where the transducer
would mount?  Also what is the width size of the DeLorean throttle cable.
If anyone knows what car they are from it would help.

 

Any suggestions?

 

My backup plan is to send a faulty throttle cable and lambda counter to
sailesmarketing who can then match up the right unit.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Chris Hawes

Vin 5255 looking to have ICE upgrade including built in Sat Nav in time for
Eurofest and Lotus which are fast approaching





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:22:08 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Axle nut/socket size?

SEARS has them!

Mark V


On Apr 5, 2006, at 12:22 PM, Tom Tait wrote:

> I know I'm making a stupid mistake somewhere here.
>
> The DMCH website says I can remove my axle nut (for angle drive
> replacement) with a 32mm socket.  That specific socket has proven hard
> to find, but when 32mm is converted to SAE it comes out to 1.259 
> inches.
> My 1 1/4" socket should fit a bit snugly, but its no where close.
>
> First, I assume the basic issue is that one can't just convert mm to
> inches and expect sockets to fit because ___________  (fill in the 
> blank
> - Metric measures the larger diameter tip to tip on the bolt where SAE
> measures the distance between parallel faces?)
>
> So where do I get a socket that fits?  No luck at either Pep Boys or
> Lowes.
>
> Tom




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 17:46:06 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Raffle car update DCS 2006

 
 I ended up buying two of them
so the raffle car for 2006 and one other delorean will get it
 
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: thomasttait <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 18:51:02 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: Raffle car update DCS 2006


Thanks go our to Ryan for posting this on his memfrag site (see post
from Ryan on or around 12/26/05)

The antenna is a Legacy LN46 - Teptronics.com has it got $18 - I found
it elswehere for about $12 - Works great.

Tom

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_... wrote:
>

> What I still have to do is to replace the antenna,
> I am looking for the brand and a place to buy a replacement mast.
> The one I want is the one with the stainless antenna.  I like this one  
> because it goes up and down real fast and it mounts almost exactly
like the  
> original.  If anyone knows the brand I would appreciate it.  





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 18:24:55 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Axle nut/socket size?

Tom,

Some cars, mainly later VIN's, use 36mm axle nuts. Perhaps that is your
problem?

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Tom Tait
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Axle nut/socket size?

I know I'm making a stupid mistake somewhere here.

The DMCH website says I can remove my axle nut (for angle drive
replacement) with a 32mm socket.  That specific socket has proven hard
to find, but when 32mm is converted to SAE it comes out to 1.259 inches.
My 1 1/4" socket should fit a bit snugly, but its no where close.

First, I assume the basic issue is that one can't just convert mm to
inches and expect sockets to fit because ___________  (fill in the blank
- Metric measures the larger diameter tip to tip on the bolt where SAE
measures the distance between parallel faces?)

So where do I get a socket that fits?  No luck at either Pep Boys or
Lowes.

Tom




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 23:19:39 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: top speed

a more streamlined body, lighter weight....

  Martin, out of curiousity what makes you say the GTA is more
streamlined aerodynamically? I'm kinda under the impressison the
Delorean is more streamlined than tha Alpine., Not arguing,just
asking. with better gearing the Delorean should be able to reach 140
in my opinion of course.







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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 19:31:21 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bosch style thermotime switch

In a message dated 4/5/2006 8:28:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:

The  thermotime switch must not be plugged in backwards, and if using a 
bosch  type switch, it is quite easy to do this.>>
So... how do you tell?
Wayne
vin 11174

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 23:40:13 -0000
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Page not found

I'm having trouble getting to www.ohiodeloreans.com and 
www.projectvixen.com.  Both of them say the page can not be found. I 
can get to every other delorean site.  Any ideas?  I'm using windows 
2000 pro and IE 6.028

                        DeLoreanchuck 10610









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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 23:47:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

Pulling the line off and letting it shoot fuel out is only a flow
test. You may see a good flow and assume it would give a good pressure
but if you actually stopped the flow and measured it you might see a
low pressure which would mean the pump was worn out or the accumulator
was blown letting the pressure dump back into the tank. You cannot
check out an injected system like that. Maybe the Primary Pressure
Regulator on the FD is stuck open dumping all the fuel back to the
tank. It might be the best thing to do now is to send the FD and the
injectors out for cleaning and testing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I pulled the main line off the FD and am getting good pressure  and  
> flow there so the "clog"  would almost have to be in the FD. I'm not  
> sure where to go from here.
> 
> Phil Priestley
> 
> Vin 2105
> IN FLUX
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 4, 2006, at 5:05 PM, mike clemens wrote:
> 
> 
> >
> > It may sound like everything is working, but you need
> > to check to make sure fuel is getting to the engine.
> >
> > Pop the line off the fuel distributor and jumper the
> > pump.  You should be able to fill up a quart jar in
> > about 10-20 seconds.  If it doesn't, then go back to
> > the fuel pump outlet and perform the same check.
> > You've got a "clog' somewhere, and you can bet it was
> > the water in the system that caused it.  Let me know
> > if this helps.
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 21:52:58 EDT
From: andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: top speed

Mike, I knew someone would have the old Road and track magazine, I stand  
corrected on the speed of the Delorean, how ever I do not agree with all the  
emails on here about the speed of cars of the 50's ,60's and 70's. I was raised  
in the south and still live here, California has it custom cars,but the south  
had and has always had fast cars. In the late 50's we would take the stock 
Chevy  283 and bore it to 301 drop in a full lift cam, solid lifters, 3 two 
barrel  carbs, a 1/2 gas line, 5 speed tranny and a tall rear end and we could 
smoke 140  or 150 with no sweat. Heck at one point the Alabama State Police had 
to get  special make Javalins (amc) with souped up 429's just to have a 
sporting chance  with the teens of that era. Nascar began on the back woods of the 
south and some  of the fastest wheels in the world still exist here, don't turn 
up your nose at  the Ford Falcon next to you, he may have a small jet engine 
in it, just  looking for some fancy set of imported wheels to out run. I am now 
64 and  will settle or a lousy 110 if this is all my Delorean will do. Heck I 
can  live with 80 mph.
Andy B 03513 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 19:25:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of fuel pressure

Phil,

I have found that the FD is both a device with a lot of needle size
ports that easily clog and containing 6 small rubber-like diaphrams
that easily could deteriorate with the wrong solvent or with time.

Conversely, I have have been able to recover a few fuel distributors
that had been setting for several years without any fuel stabilizer. In
fact, the FD's seem more durable and more cleanable than I ever
dreamed.

Without any large numbers to justify a statistical support for what's
the best cleaning method, I have had the best success with soaking in
Sea Foam for a week or two. I know the soak has done its job when the
plunger is no longer stuck in the distributor. (Be careful that the
plunger does not drop or get scratched against anything (even a paper
towel)).  I also spray all the port with Sea Foam Deep Creep before
submerging in the Sea Foam Injector Cleaner.  After re-installing on
the car, I add a can of the same cleaner to the fuel tank after each
cleanup for about 3 or 4 fills of fuel.  

If that doesn't work, I send it to a Bosch authorized rebuilder who
rebuilds the unit for about $350.

A word of caution from someone that will try to fix almost anything: 
Despite how much you are tempted, do NOT try to open the FD or attempt
to do an internal fix.  This repair takes special expertise and
equipment and is an extreme safey hazard.

Good luck,

Greg




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2006 03:05:36 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Original NCT Rear Tires - Sell or Trade

Group,

I have a set of good conditioned NCT tires.  As far as I can tell,
it's original.  I want to sell them or trade them for parts.  40 bucks
for both.  You pick up (Seattle) or pay for the shipping. 
Alternatively, we can trade parts: LED lights for the doors, complete
set.  Improved lowered front coil springs.  or One case of mobile one
synthetic oil or castrol synthetic oil.  Basically, new parts.  Will
review trade offers until April 15.

Interested party please e-mail me off the list.


Steve
VIN#04421









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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2006 03:57:37 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Early production prototype rear fascia

Sorry guys, just trying to feed my curiosity. Please check out this 
link and look at the rear lower bumber. I am searching for some good 
closeup pictures of this. I am beginning to wonder if that design 
was part of the mold of our existing rear end, and the lower part 
was simply cut out? 

http://www.delorean-owners.org/legend/history.html


Byron



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I had seen a picture of a DeLorean what seemed to be in the 
factory 
> with a rear fascia that extended below the ones we have. It 
covered 
> the oil pan only exposing the exhaust tips. I am not talking about 
the 
> kits that are out there, this was a true factory looking 
streamline 
> stock looking set up.
> I would love it if someone could point out where there are some 
> photos. 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Byron
> 
> 
> Byron
>










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