From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 8:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3202

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

2. Re: DeLorean Key Blanks
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

3. Re: running rough after tune-up
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. DMA Membership Renewal
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

5. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

6. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

7. Alternator Noise
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

8. Re: Oil plug
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: running rough after tune-up
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. I have the entire dmcnews yahoo group archived from the beginning
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

11. Trunk Pop-a-loft thingy
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Lexan RC Bodies
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

14. RE: Re: Inerita Switch
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: I have the entire dmcnews yahoo group archived from the beginning
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

17. Re: running rough after tune-up
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>

18. Re: DeLorean Key Blanks
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Cold Start - Air Meter
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

20. Re: Oil plug
From: "Joe Palatinus" <jpalatinus_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Re: Lexan RC Bodies
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. info on adjusting manual trans linkage
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

24. Re: Fuel Accumulator
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 00:46:24 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting

Paul - I assume that you mean "battery cut-off switch" when you say "kill switch"?  If you could give me the details of the switch that you have installed, I can tell you how to power this system upstream from the switch so that it can remain active even with the power shut off.  If there is another meaning for "kill switch" that is different from the battery cut-off switch, please let me know.  
Thanks.  Feel free to email me directly as you proceed with this installation.  This topic may be of general interest to the List, but the Moderators need to make that call.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
> One other thing Im just thinking is that I currently have a kill
switch on the car that I use when away for any length of time and overnight.
> How difficult would it be to wire the system up so that it bypasses
the kill switch or will this require considerable re-wiring because Im integrating the system into the existing Delorean electrics.








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 18:06:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Key Blanks

Matt,
Save yourself some hassle mate and just buy your key
blanks from DMC Texas.They're reproductions but look
the same as original ones.The other vendors may sell
them too.

Cheers,
Andrew 
VIN 2883
Australia
--- conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> I know this subject has probably been beaten to a
> pulp so many times 
> before.  This link here:
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/keys.html 
> shows that the ignition key is a Ilco X29.  I cut
> keys here at work 
> and the X29 cross references over to a VL-5.  That
> link says BL-5.  I 
> was talking with my key distributor earlier today
> and they said that 
> the BL-5 is discontinued.
> 
> Just a bit of info everyone would like to know and
> maybe at that link 
> about a note could be made by moderators.
> 
> Matt
> VIN: 2953
> Frostburg, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 03:17:21 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: running rough after tune-up

I don't know if you already double checked where you reconnected 
your fuel lines to, but one time I had pulled the intake to do some 
work and was in a bit of a hurry putting everything back together 
and accidentally switched one of the WUR lines with the cold start 
valve line. Had the exact same symptoms as you described on a drive 
around the block until I came back and discovered my silly error. 
Don't mean to be one of those guys that just states the obvious when 
you're looking for help, but I figured...just in case. Good luck 
with it,

Dave
5968


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> i just recently did a tune-up on my D - had the fuel injectors
> cleaned, replaced vaccuum hoses, coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
> seals, washers, gaskets, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, main
> fuel line, etc.  when i first started it up it ran okay, but after 
it
> would warm up i noticed the idle was really erratic.  it would dip
> down to approx 600rpm, then shoot up to 1250 or so.  it seems like 
the
> engine is on the verge of stalling when that happens.  at this 
time it
> still drove okay, just the idle was bad.  now, the problem is 
worse. 
> in just 2 days time without driving it a whole lot, it has NO
> acceleration.  there is a LOT of hesitation and its basically
> undrivable because of how slowly i accelerate.  
> 
> i've tried checking for vaccuum leaks with an incense stick with no
> luck - i also tried the propane tank trick that was suggested.  i
> haven't been able to find a vaccuum leak, but who knows i might be
> missing something.  it seems to me like something may have been 
shaken
> loose since it has progressively gotten worse?  
> 
> any advice for what to check would be much appreciated.
> 
> thanks,
> bill
> 6976
>










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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 23:42:17 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: DMA Membership Renewal

DMA is renewing club memberships at our annual spring social!
Even if you don't plan to attend the social, you can still renew your
membership online! (and why wouldn't you attend the social!?  Its going to
be a blast!)
 
Spring social signups and membership renewal information can be found on our
website:  http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/social06.htm
 
If you are currently a member and fail to renew by April 30th, your access
to the club's Yahoo group and mailings will expire.  DONT MISS OUT!  Stay
part of the fun!!!  
 
Hope to see you at the spring social!
 
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 03:42:27 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator

How could you drain the tank without the pump running?

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_...> wrote:
> 2. Undo the little hose and clamp on the bottom.  Clamp the hose off. 
> You can drain the tank from there if you're not careful.








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator

In the past 25 years with 2 Deloreans I've probably replaced 6 or 7
accumulators with the frustrations mentioned in recent posts.  the last
two were very easy for different reasons:

To replace the accumulator on my original Delorean, I attached a wrench
to the fitting that is accessable with the console and access "patch"
removed.  It was much easier getting to the difficult fittings from the
top.  Obviously you will have the time to remove the console, but
access from the top may be the best way to go, particularly if the
console is already out of the car.

On my most recent car that had been setting with gas in the lines for
10 years, I hit the fittings 1 or 2 times a day for a week with Sea
Foam "Deep Creep".  Though tight, the fittings came apart with ease
after a week of this penetrant doing its job.  (WD-40 would probably
have been just as effective.)


When reassembling the last time, I used a thread antiseeze compound
with the hope it works half as well as it did on my exhaust manifold
studs.

Woody



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:17:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Alternator Noise

I have squeal noise in my alternator that begins most times when I
start the engine but ends after running a few seconds.

The sound is NOT the belt but quits when the voltage gets about about
14.4 volts.

Any idea if this is the bearings or otherwise?  I this something that
fails commonly and could be repaired w/o taking to a shop?

Thanks once again,

Woody

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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:26:52 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil plug

 
In a message dated 4/13/2006 5:37:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com writes:

does  anyone know of  a standard everyday plug that fits the 
car so in the  future when I have to  change the oil I don't have to spend an 
hour  
looking for that damn odd  male ended  wrench?



When you get it, leave it in the glove box. :-)
 
Wayne A.  Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 23:38:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: running rough after tune-up

I would definitely check to make sure the plug wires
were routed correctly.  If #1 was put on #6's coil
plug or something, that would cause a major mess. 
That sounds like what may have happened.  Did you
replace the coil with something other than "reliable
blue"?  I have tried that in the past only to have
nothing but trouble.  Is your engine timing 13-15
degrees?  All your symptoms sound more like ignition
issues and not fuel issues.  Is your black microswitch
set correctly as in the picture here from
SpecialTAuto:
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/idle-speed-adj.jpg
. When you do a "tuneup" on these cars, you're taking
alot of mechanical systems apart.  Due to the nature
of these components on the engine, re-tuning the
engine is almost necessary.

Jeremiah

--- Bill Koenig <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com> wrote:

> i just recently did a tune-up on my D ...

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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 07:38:35 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: I have the entire dmcnews yahoo group archived from the beginning

So, I found a neat neat little tool from
http://www.personalgroupware.com/ called pg offline. It downloads all
of the messages in any yahoo group you are subscribed to and dumps it
into an access database .mdb file. The program has some pretty decent
search tools as well as having a complete interface with your email
client and allows posting of messages as well. For what it does, $19
is a steal and now I can search all 62000 messages for any term within
seconds.

Now that that's out of the way, Is there anyone out there who wants to
host a 260 meg access database? that way, if anyone else on the list
wants to pick up this software, they dont have to spend the hours upon
hours downloading all of the messages and risk yahoo locking your
account for an hour (an unfortunate side effect of mirroring an entire
group for the first time)

As a bonus, since the messages are in a standard database, you could
theoretically write your own queries against it or even import it into
an outlook personal folder which I'm working on now.

email me if you have hosting and I can ftp the database somewhere.








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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:23:55 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Trunk Pop-a-loft thingy

Cool idea, slick install. Now, I am going to be using a switch to activate 
the pop. Where to put relay and where to get ground and hot? Relay 
compartment or right beside the cable pull? If I go under the dash what is 
the best place to ground (column?) and best wire to tap into under there. If 
you talk me into going to the relay compartment same questions.
Regards,
Charles






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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:36:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lexan RC Bodies

I thought I'd put this out there again for anyone who may have spare lexan RC Delorean bodies.  These were sold many years ago by D1 and Fred Lockett.  I'm looking for one to have a custom RC car made.   I know there are lot of owners who are very good at vacuum forming stuff so if we can find one we could have it re-created.
   
  Thanks
   
  Tom
  #05732



			
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:05:41 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting

Paul,
One tip I have while installing the kit would be to remove the passenger 
seat. You will spend a lot of time in the electrical compartment wiring it 
all up. Being able to sit down and face the compartment will really save 
your back!

As for the cutoff switch, that shouldn't be too difficult. The kit will 
require power for the actuators, remote receiver and other alarm bits. Just 
run a fused connection from the battery to these points instead of where 
the directions say. You will also need to rewire the lock module and 
solenoid/actuators directly to the fused battery connection. Otherwise you 
won't be able to lock/unlock the car remotely.

Good luck. They are one of the best upgrades out there, so you will 
definitely enjoy it!

Chris
VIN 4099

At 12:38 AM 4/14/2006 +0100, you wrote:
>One other thing Im just thinking is that I currently have a kill switch on
>the car that I use when away for any length of time and overnight.
>
>How difficult would it be to wire the system up so that it bypasses the kill
>switch or will this require considerable re-wiring because Im integrating
>the system into the existing Delorean electrics.





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 16:02:49 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Inerita Switch

  Also, try pulling the plunger up before starting the engine.  It SHOULD 
spin, but not start. (Great for keeping unauthorized persons from driving 
off with your car)       Drive Stainless   (Park securely)  Robert  VIN 6924


From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Inerita Switch
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 16:53:35 -0000

If lifting the plunger won't shut the motor down try pulling the wires
off the switch. It may be bypassed. If the switch doesn't have the
white splotch on it replace it. The switch should be on the cowl, not
the Lambda counter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_...> wrote:
 >
 > Paul,
 > > First off the actual switch is permanently "sunken" into the casing
 > and has
 >







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 11:09:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: I have the entire dmcnews yahoo group archived from the beginning

the DML has archives older than Yahoo groups...


--- sweitzel_2000 <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com> wrote:

> So, I found a neat neat little tool from
<SNIP>

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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:16:06 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator

That hose taps the return line.  If the end of it is below the level in 
the tank, it will siphon from the tank until reaches where the end of 
the little hose is.  You can stop the siphon by raising the end of the 
hose, but it will start again if it slips back down.  And when you grab 
it and try to clamp it in a hurry, gasoline runs down your arms and 
burns your armpits.

That's not funny.

Warren at DMC



Matt Spittle wrote:
> How could you drain the tank without the pump running?
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_...> wrote:
> 
>>2. Undo the little hose and clamp on the bottom.  Clamp the hose off. 
>>You can drain the tank from there if you're not careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:15:39 -0000
From: "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976_at_dml_mail.com>
Subject: Re: running rough after tune-up

To all who responded - thank you very much.  I did find a vaccuum leak
upon closer inspection - the hose that connects the idle speed tube to
the idle speed motor was very loose (as was the idle speed motor in
its clamp).  Now I don't have any acceleration loss/hesitation that I
can discern, but I still get a funny idle after the car is warm
(between 600rpm and 900rpm).  So maybe I still have another leak. 
I'll go over it again, looking for vaccuum leaks as well as testing
the lambda system, plug cables, etc).  Thanks again for all of the
helpful input.

Bill
6976







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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 18:02:57 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Key Blanks

Andrew,
The problem I have is they don't have the blank for the early 
doors.  Also, I like to put a spare key in my wallet just in case.  
And a molded key will make it bulky in there.  I still might get a 
couple with the DMC molded head on them, but I can get ones here at 
work cheaper by close to $10 less.

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Matt,
> Save yourself some hassle mate and just buy your key
> blanks from DMC Texas.They're reproductions but look
> the same as original ones.The other vendors may sell
> them too.
> 
> Cheers,
> Andrew 
> VIN 2883
> Australia







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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:00:51 -0400
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Cold Start - Air Meter

        Well, I got my car fired up again finally. As I stated before it had a problem
with cold starting. I tried grounding the wire on the thermotime switch and that
didn't help. When I push down on the air meter and then try starting it , it fires 
up. It just won't idle until good until it warms up. What should be my next step
to try? Thanks in advance.................Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 16:27:52 -0400
From: "Joe Palatinus" <jpalatinus_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil plug

I suppose everyone has their method, but I am surprised no one has
mentioned this one yet: just get an 8mm hex key (maybe 3$ at sears)
and grinding down the edges to make it rectangular.  The key has a 90
degree angle already and fits right in the hole for the plug.  I have
used this technique several times with much success, and you don't
need to destry a good ratchet.
Joe P.
17167 6808




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 14:22:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lexan RC Bodies

I have one that is uncut.  Its a mold of Proto-1
   
  Erik
  

Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
  I thought I'd put this out there again for anyone who may have spare lexan RC Delorean bodies. These were sold many years ago by D1 and Fred Lockett. I'm looking for one to have a custom RC car made. I know there are lot of owners who are very good at vacuum forming stuff so if we can find one we could have it re-created.

Thanks

Tom
#05732




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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links









			
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:57:05 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: info on adjusting manual trans linkage

Hey Group,
 
Next weekend I am planning on getting my engine and transmission back in my  
car.  We had to disconnect the shifter linkage, so I am looking to see if  
anyone has any really good detailed instructions on how to adjust the shifter so  
everything works properly when I am done.  Assume nothing!  I remember  I had 
to unscrew the sideways nuts a LOT to get the crossgate cable loose enough  
to remove. Getting that set-up properly again is my main concern and I have no  
idea what to do.
 
Any help?
Thanks - Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 23:31:56 +0100
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda


What a day Now I know what everyone is talking about when they say the
Accumulator replacement is a nightmare.  I never want to do that again. 

Ive managed (at last) to get it sorted though.  Only took bout half hour to
fit............................it was the 4hrs to get the old one off that
really had the air around me blue ;-).  Ended up pulling the centre console
out as Woody suggested.  One thing I also done (donít know it you would
usually do it, but it really helped) was instead of unscrewing the 17mm
fitting from the accumulator I loosened the one on the fuel line which
allowed me to drop the accumulator through 90 degrees and "wiggle" it off
the line a lot easier than loosening it from the accumulator (still awkward
but definitely easier).  It was actually bending into the top of the
accumulator when I tried to loosen it there.

Anyway thatís the job done thankfully and the hot start problem seems to be
sorted - well kinda!  After the test run and 15mins stop for a restart, the
engine now turns over and over and over and eventually fires to life after a
bit of throttle whereas before changing the accumulator, when I tried to
start her the engine would turn over, start and die off again.  After four
attempts she then started (I have the relay fitted to by pass the hot start
problem so that I can at least get it to start eventually).

Maybe this is normal (as Ive had the hot start problem since buying the car)
but it just seems strange that it has to turn over so much before firing.
When she is cold (at least before changing the accumulator) she would start
on the first turn.  

Any ideas or suggestions. 


Cheers.

Paul J 
Belfast
2493 



Ps:  Ive already replace the "o" ring in the check valve.

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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:09:13 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator

Draining the tank without the fuel pump running is something I have to do a  
lot with the cars I buy.
Most don't have working pumps.
I use a battery operated siphone hose and it work fine 
takes about 4 minutes to drain then just rag out the rest and clean with  
acetone
Tanks look like new
 
Ken


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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:42:16 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Wings a Loft - Advice on fitting

 
In a message dated 4/14/2006 2:03:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net writes:

One tip  I have while installing the kit would be to remove the passenger 
seat. You  will spend a lot of time in the electrical compartment wiring it 
all up.  Being able to sit down and face the compartment will really save 
your  back!


I thought of that one too late. It's only 4 bolts with nuts on the bottom  of 
the car. Just be careful you don't bung up the threads when you sit the seat  
assembly aside.
 
 
Wayne A.  Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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