From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 5:28 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3206

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DML'er in the news...
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Re: EFI injector question
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>

3. Re: Oil plug
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

4. RE: Won't start cold
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

5. San Diego Rolling British Car Day - report
From: "David Cox" <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Re: DML'er in the news...
From: "dmcox_sd" <dmcox_at_dml_tfb.com>

7. Re: Re: EFI injector question
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: Digest Number 3204
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

9. Re: Re: EFI injector question
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Won't start cold
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. Alternator Squeal
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

12. Hot start and Wings A Loft
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

13. Record raffle car sales
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. Millennium Concours registrations now up to 6
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

15. Coolant Bottle Wanted...
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

16. Re: Record raffle car sales
From: "Ken Baker" <kenbaker1265_at_dml_msn.com>

17. Coolant bottle consensus
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

18. Re: Alternator Squeal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

19. Re: Alternator Squeal
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

20. Re: Won't start cold
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. My coolant bottle fix
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. AW: Hot start and Wings A Loft
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

23. Mechanic in Tampa Bay area
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Top speed for automatics
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Front Suspension problem..
From: "John" <john.geuley_at_dml_btinternet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:14:44 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: DML'er in the news...

Or at least, he used to be - David Cox, are you still around? Great 
article in the paper on you and your car...

http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/northcounty/20060416-9999-1mi16roll.html

http://tinyurl.com/qsv34

James Espey
Visit http://www.dmchelp.com for tech advice from the pros who know!
Brought to you by DMC (Texas), PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center and DMC
(Florida)




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 09:04:58 -0700
From: "Daniel F." <daniel_at_dml_ramblerman.com>
Subject: Re: EFI injector question

Nick,

I was concerned about the exact same thing when I was building
my EFI system from scratch about year ago. I had nightmares that
after all my hard work the injectors would just spray into the K-Jet
injector tubes and just drip down without atomizing causing it to
run poorly.

I am very happy to say that I worried for nothing! Apparently if
you use injectors that are no more than 15-20 degree spray pattern,
you don't even need to machine down the injector mounting area at
all. Sorry! I used high impedance Bosch injectors that are for a
Buick 3.8 liter V6 (I believe they are 216's). Not only did the
engine fire up with no problems almost on the first crank (after it
had been sitting for two months while I was working on it), but I
have driven over 3000 miles with it, including a trip to CA with
some members of the AZ-D for a car show.

I love the EFI. I built a MegaSquirt computer. Not sure which
ECU you are running, but it is so great to be able to control
what is going on. The efficiency and smoothness compared to
the original K-Jetronic POS is incredible. At an event we had
here in AZ earlier this year, Rob Grady said that my engine was
almost as smooth as an even fire!!!!

Good luck,
Daniel
VIN 10920
Arizona DeLorean Club

~~~~~~~~~~
Nick wrote:

>Thanks for the responces. 
>
>In answer to Daves question, i just want to get the thing finished 
>and if the injector is only 3mm inside the injector tube will it 
>really make a difference ???? Or am i splitting hairs. I would have 
>to buy purpose injectors to achieve that 3mm reach. The injectors i 
>modified have a pencil type spray pattern anyway so hopefully that 
>will do the job. 
>I suppose if it was an issue nothing would have to be changed except 
>the injectors. The fuel rails would still remain the same.
>
>
>Martin -  Sounds like a great kit you are offering and as i have 
>just gone through all the custom work involved in modification, a 
>bolt on sounds like a great option for other people looking to do 
>this!
>
>FYI I have the ECU activating off a 3 x 120 deg crank triggered hall 
>sensor. I had a custom front pulley made for this and modified the 
>distrubutor so that i only get a single cam trigger.
>
>I have the ECU activating the Fans sequentially at different 
>temperatures through their own relays and also controlling the A/C 
>idle up.
>
>The ECU (haltech) i am using is fully programmable to adapt to odd 
>fire meaning i can also trigger the injectors at the correct times 
>etc..
>
>It was hard to believe the amount of wiring i cut out of the engine 
>bay by removing the K jetronic. 
>
>Thanks again , Nick
>  
>





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 11:00:10 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Re: Oil plug

I'm sure someone has mentioned this before, but there is an easy  
solution to dealing with the square-pegged OEM oil drain plug for  
every oil change: just replace it with a typical six-sided plug.  I  
think I did this the first time I changed the oil in my car and I've  
only needed a 17mm wrench since.

You can get one pretty much anywhere - I think it's just an NPT  
plug.  It's not original, but it's a lot easier.

Of course, you'll have to get the original plug out before you can  
enjoy the benefits of the new one.  I don't remember that part being  
a problem though.

Travis Graham
#6344





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 10:16:06 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Won't start cold

I spent a lot of $ working on the same problem, I had a vacuum leak.
Once fixed everything was perfect.  Mine was the metal tube that runs
into the bottom of the air flow meter assembly from the idle speed
motor, yours may differ.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of edherrmann
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 4:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Won't start cold

Car just cranks and won't start. Fuel pump works, fuel injectors are 
spraying, accumulator just replaced and holding pressure at the air 
sensor plate, checked spark plugs for spark, cold sart valve spraying 
when cranked, thermo time switch just replaced and air sensor plate 
adjusted for rich and lean setting at each crank. Also checked fuses 
and safty switch under drivers side. Can't figure out why it won't 
start. Any suggestions. Thanks  ED







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 10:46:39 -0700
From: "David Cox" <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: San Diego Rolling British Car Day - report

The weather was less than perfect, but we still ended up with a total of 6 Deloreans at this event.  A newspaper article about the event can be found at this address:

http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/northcounty/20060416-9999-1mi16roll.html

or

http://tinyurl.com/qsv34

The reporter was very interested in my car and ended up making me a major part of the article.  I've also become a minor celebrity at work, with a surprising number of people having noticed my name in the article.

In related news, the San Diego British Car Council holds 2 major events each year - the Rolling Car Day in the Spring, and a traditional Car Show on the first Sunday in October.  The 27th Annual San Diego British Car Day will take place on 1 October, 2006 (details at http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/)  There was some talk of choosing the Delorean as the featured marque for this year's event.  I want to emphasize that this is not yet certain, but it is being considered.  Last year we had 7 Deloreans in attendance, but not enough had pre-registered to get our own judging category.  With only 6 pre-registrations, we would have a class of our own, instead of being in competition withthe rest of the "Others"!  This group puts on a good show and has some good looking trophies.  I've got 2 nice looking trophies for "Best of Class, Other", and I sure would like a chance to try for one that actually says "Delorean" on it.  Anyone else interested in joining me?

Dave
vin 16367

_____________________________________________________________
Buy and sell stocks in NFL teams! Get paid dividends every time your team wins! Free limited-time trial at http://www.AllSportsMarket.com?affiliate=1860





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 17:51:46 -0000
From: "dmcox_sd" <dmcox_at_dml_tfb.com>
Subject: Re: DML'er in the news...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, James Espey <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Or at least, he used to be - David Cox, are you still around? Great 
> article in the paper on you and your car...
> 
> http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/northcounty/20060416-9999-
1mi16roll.html
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/qsv34
> 
I'm grateful for the nice write-up, but we had a total of 6 Deloreans 
there, so thanks to everyone that showed up.  If the weather had been 
better, I'm sure we would have gotten even more cars there.  See my 
other post for details about the fall event - I'd like to see a huge 
turnout for that.

Dave
vin 16367







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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:22:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: EFI injector question



Nick wrote:

>Martin -  Sounds like a great kit you are offering 
>
Not yet...... trying to get one built for Eurofest, but the crucial bit 
we were waiting on was the "if" the ECU could be adapted for odd-fire. 
It can and has been shown on a bench to successfully trigger the stock 
ignition amplifier. There is no real reason to bin the distributor, but 
the advance weights will need to be immobilised. We have enough spare 
distributors to do this on exchange though! Only one incarnation of the 
PRV did not use a distributor of some kind, and only then because it 
didn't fit in the engine bay.

We've been tuning D engines for 3 years now and the biggest single gain 
before going to internals is re-mapping the ignition curve.

>FYI I have the ECU activating off a 3 x 120 deg crank triggered hall 
>sensor. I had a custom front pulley made for this and modified the 
>distrubutor so that i only get a single cam trigger.
>
Our ECU interpolates the original distributor signal beautifully for 
both TDC and phase (because being odd-fire the pattern repeats every two 
revolutions). We're going batch fired because I don't really see the 
point of full sequential on an old engine like this but we're only 
triggering once per 2 revolutions.

#2727's twin turbo is also progressing. A Renault 25 turbo flywheel has 
been machined to remove the peculiar "double tooth" pattern and now has 
a 66/3 pattern, again adapted for us in a special version of firmware. I 
picked up a 25 turbo bellhousing on ebay UK and that has now been built 
into a donor transmission (#2727 -was- an auto) and is looking all 
spangly ready to be mated to the engine which as of today is now 
internally finished and awaiting cleaning and a lick of paint. That's an 
even fire 2458cc Renaul 25 turbo engine built into a DeLorean block with 
R25 heads and the Island kit that came with the car.

>The ECU (haltech) i am using is fully programmable to adapt to odd 
>fire meaning i can also trigger the injectors at the correct times 
>etc..
>
The biggie is mapping the ignition. Especially with a supercharger you 
need that.

>It was hard to believe the amount of wiring i cut out of the engine 
>bay by removing the K jetronic.
>
With a stock of new rists conectiors, expect a new loom to be made :-)

Martin





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 16:13:19 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 3204

Hello Ken:
1 table please for the souvenir glasses. Yes, I'm again pleased to help support the show with freebies.

Do you have any art showing date / location, that I can use for one side? The DeLorean with open doors will be on the 2nd side. Prefer a vectored eps file in black on white.

Regards and thx,
Marv.


Marvin Stein

924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071
toll free: 1-866-725-4665
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
website: www.printeddrinkware.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:58 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3204


> There are 15 messages in this issue.
> 
> Topics in this digest:
> 
>      1. Celebration Concours, 4/29/2006, 9:00 am
>           From: dmcnews
>      2. Re: Re: Oil plug
>           From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
>      3. AW: Door latch replacement/upgrade
>           From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
>      4. Re: Door latch replacement/upgrade
>           From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
>      5. RE: Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
>           From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
>      6. Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
>           From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
>      7. Re: Won't start cold
>           From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
>      8. Re: Fuel Accumulator
>           From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>      9. Vendors for DCS
>           From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>     10. New DeLorean t-shirt designs now available at BTTF.com
>           From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
>     11. RE: DeLorean Key Blanks
>           From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
>     12. Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
>           From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
>     13. DCS Raffle Car Update!
>           From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
>     14. RE: 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!
>           From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack_at_dml_jlsii.com>
>     15. Re: Any Tennessee DeLorean Owners?
>           From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 1         
>   Date: 15 Apr 2006 12:56:03 -0000
>   From: dmcnews
> Subject: Celebration Concours, 4/29/2006, 9:00 am
> 
> 
> Reminder from the Calendar of dmcnews
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/cal
> 
> Celebration Concours
> Saturday April 29, 2006
> 9:00 am - 4:00 pm
> (This event does not repeat.)
> (The next reminder for this event will be sent in 7 days, 4 minutes.)
> Event Location: Celebration, FL (Disney Area)
> 
> Notes:
> www.celebrationexoticcars.com
> 
> 
> Set up birthday reminders!
> http://us.rd.yahoo.com/cal_us/rem/?http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/cal?v=9&evt_type=13
> 
> Copyright 2006 Yahoo! Inc. All Rights Reserved.
> http://www.yahoo.com
> 
> Privacy Policy:
> http://privacy.yahoo.com/
> 
> Terms of Service:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> 
> 
> [This message contained attachments]
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 2         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 00:08:54 -0400
>   From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
> Subject: Re: Re: Oil plug
> 
> "Necessity is the mother of inventions."
> 
> I had suggested to "getting a cheap ratchet" as not to use a good  
> ratchet, unless one wants to.
> 
> In the beginning, I too, I had gone through the method of using  
> "stock key material" as to heating it with a torch and bend it to a  
> 90 degree and then to grind it the to the required size.  I didn't  
> like the feel of the square stock so I used an over sized allen  
> wrench, which was then grounded to size.  Since I don't have the  
> luxury to use a lift and using these fabricated stock key or the  
> allen wrench which is too short as in applying leverage or to get a  
> good working angle while laying on my back with your arm stretched  
> out was a struggle for me.  The Snap On Tool on a ratchet was better  
> but there is also little room and it too was a hassle just to juggle  
> the combination onto the plug with one hand while lying down.  I  
> decided to modify a cheapo ratchet that I had, since it is overall  
> shorter, it will be more maneuverability between the oil pan and the  
> frame.
> 
> With the modified ratchet, once it is on it sits dead flush on the  
> plug and it doe not rock or move while offering many workable angles  
> by the ratchet mechanism.  Coupled with the ratchet's long handle, it  
> offers good leverage in the removal or the installing of the plug  
> without the slippage or marring of the plug's opening when the  
> pressure is applied.  This all can be done with one hand which is  
> much faster and more effective without the scrapping of the knuckles  
> or the hurting of fingers from the applied pressure with the stock  
> key or allen units.  For me it was a matter of working smarter and  
> not harder and my modified ratchet is well worth its weight in gold  
> after the very first oil change and it has served me with over twenty  
> seven oil changes on every scheduled 3,000 plus miles.  And it is  
> still going... Another oil change is due next week.
> 
> BTW, a friend of mine discarded that "cheap ratchet" that I got off  
> him when he purchased a set of real professional name brand  
> tools.....  So, one man's junk is another man's treasure.
> 
> Anyway, I was just sharing my experiences for it had worked very well  
> for me and it could be an alternative way for those who may wanted to  
> go this way to have a dedicated oil plug tool.   :-)
> 
> 
> 
> Kayo Ong
> 
> #5508  (Ten years of ownership as of two weeks ago)
> 
> Lic  9D NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 14, 2006, at 4:27 PM, Joe Palatinus wrote:
> 
>> I suppose everyone has their method, but I am surprised no one has
>> mentioned this one yet: just get an 8mm hex key (maybe 3$ at sears)
>> and grinding down the edges to make it rectangular.  The key has a 90
>> degree angle already and fits right in the hole for the plug.  I have
>> used this technique several times with much success, and you don't
>> need to destry a good ratchet.
>> Joe P.
>> 17167 6808
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
>> www.dmcnews.com
>>
>> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
>> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 3         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 07:21:48 +0200
>   From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
> Subject: AW: Door latch replacement/upgrade
> 
> Wayne,
> if you had read the DML regularly you would know that I started
> that discussion about one year ago but people weren't interested.
> 
> There are Deloreans out there that can be locked while the doors are open.
> I never found out when the lachtes were replaced, but there are original
> latches that work like you want them to work.
> 
> Another way is to install a diode and a resistor on the correct place
> in the door lock module and the power locks won't work as long
> as a door os open.
> 
> Elvis 6 6548
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fact that hitting the lock/unlock switch with doors open can cause
> misalignment and malfunction is a collossal pain in the butt. Since our cars
> are
> the only ones that I've seen that work that way, I can't help but wonder,
> "WHY?"  And isn't there a car out there with door latches that would be more
> user
> friendly, if adapted to fit? I've been on the DML for maybe 6 or 7 years and
> I
> don't recall anyone ever discussing this. Hasn't anyone ever tried it? Of
> course  I realize that we use 2 latches instead of one, but that's an inside
> the
> door  issue, not a latch issue per se. Don't other cars use link rods too,
> in
> some  fashion?
> 
> 
> Wayne A.  Ernst
> vin 11174
> Bridgeton, NJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 4         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 11:54:43 +0100
>   From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Door latch replacement/upgrade
> 
> There're plenty of cars over here that won't let you pop the locks when 
> the door is open. It's a simple mechanism whose function is to prevent 
> you from locking yourself out of the car. On my Citroen, for example, 
> the rear doors will let you, the front doors won't. If you try, the 
> button is rock solid.
> 
> However on a lot of cars, you -can- pop the locks with the doors open by 
> lifting the handle first. The DeLorean is in this category, although I 
> won't go as far as to recommend doing it, I certainly do it.
> 
> I think the biggest problem is those big solenoids. When they work, they 
> don't haf pull hard and there's enough play in the complex linkage (by 
> the standard of any other car) to trigger them even when the latches 
> don't want to move. This forces the latches or at least put a lot of 
> strain on what can be some pretty fine adjustments in those linkages. 
> It's no wonder that most "I can't get my door open" problems relate to 
> the front lock rod which is long and bent into a Z-shape.
> 
> These latches are common to a large number of cars and are still in 
> production today and used on new cars
> 
> Martin
> 
> deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> 
>>The fact that hitting the lock/unlock switch with doors open can cause  
>>misalignment and malfunction is a collossal pain in the butt. Since our cars are  
>>the only ones that I've seen that work that way, I can't help but wonder, 
>>"WHY?"  And isn't there a car out there with door latches that would be more user  
>>friendly, if adapted to fit? I've been on the DML for maybe 6 or 7 years and I 
>> don't recall anyone ever discussing this. Hasn't anyone ever tried it? Of 
>>course  I realize that we use 2 latches instead of one, but that's an inside the 
>>door  issue, not a latch issue per se. Don't other cars use link rods too, in 
>>some  fashion? 
>> 
>> 
>>Wayne A.  Ernst
>>vin 11174
>>Bridgeton, NJ
>>
>>  
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 5         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:45:05 +0100
>   From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
> Subject: RE: Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
> 
> How do I check these?  I know the fuel pump is a new pump so it should be ok
> but where is the primary pressure regulator.
> 
> I have already replaced an "o" ring just below where all the fuel hoses
> connect to.
> 
> Im going to run the car a bit more today to see it if settles down cos it
> was 11.30pm when I finishes last night and only really had time to start her
> once and go for a run to warm her up and restart about 15-20 mins after.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paul J 
> 2493
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> David Teitelbaum
> Sent: 15 April 2006 02:41
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
> 
> Could also be the check valve on the fuel pump and the Primary
> Pressure Regulator.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> What a day Now I know what everyone is talking about when they say the
>> Accumulator replacement is a nightmare.  I never want to do that again. 
>> 
>> Ive managed (at last) to get it sorted though.  Only took bout half h
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 14/04/2006
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/312 - Release Date: 14/04/2006
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 6         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:28:34 -0400
>   From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
> 
> I don't remember if you posted what you had done previously but have you
> done a complete tune-up including new injectors? After twenty-five years
> mechanical parts get clogged and springs lose their tension.
> 
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
> 
> After the test run and 15mins stop for a restart, the
> engine now turns over and over and over and eventually fires to life after a
> bit of throttle whereas before changing the accumulator, when I tried to
> start her the engine would turn over, start and die off again.  After four
> attempts she then started (I have the relay fitted to by pass the hot start
> problem so that I can at least get it to start eventually).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 7         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:32:29 -0400
>   From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: Won't start cold
> 
> You may want to check and readjust your CO setting. I know on my car just a
> minute turn on the CO setting is the difference of starting and not starting
> when cold and sometimes even when hot. Try setting the CO a little more
> richer.
> 
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 7:59 PM
> Subject: [DML] Won't start cold
> 
> 
>> Car just cranks and won't start. Fuel pump works, fuel injectors are
>> spraying, accumulator just replaced and holding pressure at the air
>> sensor plate, checked spark plugs for spark, cold sart valve spraying
>> when cranked, thermo time switch just replaced and air sensor plate
>> adjusted for rich and lean setting at each crank. Also checked fuses
>> and safty switch under drivers side. Can't figure out why it won't
>> start. Any suggestions. Thanks  ED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 8         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 07:19:04 EDT
>   From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
> Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator
> 
> Well after getting the accumulator we put it in the car and this one was a  
> far cry from the previous attempt at removing the accumulator.
> It came out easily and it went back in easy.   Actually the  hardest thing 
> was to get a tie wrap back in there since there is no hand  room.
> The previous one I did would not separate even after the nut was off and we  
> ended up replacing the fuel line as the easier option (and no we did not  
> separate the frame from the car) anyway that is done
> 
> Busy night last night we replaced the antenna on the raffle car, did some  
> wiring on it, changed oil on another Delorean and loaded up some computers for  
> the car show.
> For once a nice productive evening.
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 9         
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:06:47 EDT
>   From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
> Subject: Vendors for DCS
> 
> Well we are now at the two months and counting time for the DCS show in  
> Chicago.
> This year we are expecting a really big crowd to come through and unlike  
> past shows where we just dropped off some tables and let the vendors fill in,  
> This time space is becoming an issue so we would like to get an idea of who is  
> going to be selling stuff at the show.
> 
> There is no charge for a vendors table but all I ask is that you donate  
> something to the Raffle.
> 
> So if you want a table (s) e-mail me back with how many tables you  want.
> This is just a preliminary guess and we will be able to accommodate you if  
> you need more or less but it will give us a better idea of whom is coming
> 
> Please respond offlist to me 
> 
> thanks
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 10        
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 14:06:35 -0000
>   From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
> Subject: New DeLorean t-shirt designs now available at BTTF.com
> 
> BTTF.com's Time Travel Terminal (http://www.bttf.com/store/) now has 
> two new t-shirt designs in stock and ready to ship:
> 
> http://www.bttf.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BTTF%2DRetro%2DSky
> http://www.bttf.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BTTF%2DRetro%
> 2DPowder
> 
> Stephen Clark,
> BTTF.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 11        
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 13:03:44 -0400
>   From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
> Subject: RE: DeLorean Key Blanks
> 
> Matt, Andrew & DML group,
> 
> FWI we have just received a small quantity of early style door key blanks
> that have an ignition key style fob molded onto them. They are easily
> distinguished from the ignition key by their slightly shorter and fatter
> blank size and fit into a pocket easier than the original blank(Still a
> little bulky for your wallet Matt but I could probably get you an un-molded
> blank if you wish). They have no internal lighting parts to fall apart and
> look correct to the car to anyone unfamiliar to the original lighted blanks.
> The original lighted blank is too costly and complicated to produce in small
> quantities so this is the best option currently available. The cost is
> $14.95 and they are available now on our website.
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Rob Grady
> 
> P.J.Grady Inc. 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> conundrum1984
> Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 2:03 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] DeLorean Key Blanks
> 
> Andrew,
> The problem I have is they don't have the blank for the early 
> doors.  Also, I like to put a spare key in my wallet just in case.  
> And a molded key will make it bulky in there.  I still might get a 
> couple with the DMC molded head on them, but I can get ones here at 
> work cheaper by close to $10 less.
> 
> Matt
> VIN: 2953
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Matt,
>> Save yourself some hassle mate and just buy your key
>> blanks from DMC Texas.They're reproductions but look
>> the same as original ones.The other vendors may sell
>> them too.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Andrew 
>> VIN 2883
>> Australia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/310 - Release Date: 4/12/2006
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/311 - Release Date: 4/13/2006
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 12        
>   Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 01:37:31 -0000
>   From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
> Subject: Re: Fuel Accumulator - Hot start fixed - Kinda
> 
> Sounds like your fuel distributor isn't holding lower end pressure, 
> check to see if your fuel adjuster O ring on right lower side of FD 
> with Nut on it, I'll bet it's broken, rotted out or gone. this would 
> cause your fuel to go back to your tank instead of holding the 
> pressure causeing turn over but no start.
> Lawrence 
> 
> 
> 
> In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> What a day Now I know what everyone is talking about when they say 
> the
>> Accumulator replacement is a nightmare.  I never want to do that 
> again. 
>> 
>> Ive managed (at last) to get it sorted though.  Only took bout 
> half hour to
>> fit............................it was the 4hrs to get the old one 
> off that
>> really had the air around me blue ;-).  Ended up pulling the 
> centre console
>> out as Woody suggested.  One thing I also done (don't know it you 
> would
>> usually do it, but it really helped) was instead of unscrewing the 
> 17mm
>> fitting from the accumulator I loosened the one on the fuel line 
> which
>> allowed me to drop the accumulator through 90 degrees and "wiggle" 
> it off
>> the line a lot easier than loosening it from the accumulator 
> (still awkward
>> but definitely easier).  It was actually bending into the top of 
> the
>> accumulator when I tried to loosen it there.
>> 
>> Anyway that's the job done thankfully and the hot start problem 
> seems to be
>> sorted - well kinda!  After the test run and 15mins stop for a 
> restart, the
>> engine now turns over and over and over and eventually fires to 
> life after a
>> bit of throttle whereas before changing the accumulator, when I 
> tried to
>> start her the engine would turn over, start and die off again.  
> After four
>> attempts she then started (I have the relay fitted to by pass the 
> hot start
>> problem so that I can at least get it to start eventually).
>> 
>> Maybe this is normal (as Ive had the hot start problem since 
> buying the car)
>> but it just seems strange that it has to turn over so much before 
> firing.
>> When she is cold (at least before changing the accumulator) she 
> would start
>> on the first turn.  
>> 
>> Any ideas or suggestions. 
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers.
>> 
>> Paul J 
>> Belfast
>> 2493 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ps:  Ive already replace the "o" ring in the check valve.
>> 
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/311 - Release Date: 
> 13/04/2006
>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 13        
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 23:27:00 -0400
>   From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
> Subject: DCS Raffle Car Update!
> 
> I had the opportunity to help work on the DCS raffle car this  
> weekend, and I am blown away by how great this car looks.  This  
> weekend we put in a new stainless steel antenna, and it has to be the  
> fastest operating antenna in the world.  It flies up and down so fast  
> you can't blink or you might miss it.  It is nice being able to get  
> radio reception in that car again.
> 
> A new reproduction wide black sidestripe was installed today as well,  
> and it really makes the car look phenomenal.  The grain is great, as  
> are the body panel fits.  This is nicer than a lot of D's I have  
> seen, and I can't believe that Ken is really willing to part with  
> this car in a raffle.
> 
> If you haven't bought a raffle ticket yet, there is still time!
> http://www.deloreancarshow.com/delorean-raffle-car.html
> 
> See you in June!
> Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 14        
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:57:34 -0400
>   From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack_at_dml_jlsii.com>
> Subject: RE: 3461 and 16879 Home Again!!!
> 
> I took today to break out both cars and do a nice solid cleanup on them.
> I must say the heat got to me and the 83 did not get a complete job, but
> I snapped some pictures including a couple of the 2 tone DMCH seats for
> you Thomas. 
> 
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/2%20Tone%20Seats1.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/2%20Tone%20Seats2.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/Rear%20Fascia.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/Front%20Fascia.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/One%20Winged.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/Twin%20Wings%202.JPG
> http://jlsii.com/dmc/Twin%20Wings.JPG
> 
> The pictures of the front and rear fascia are post painting.  My paint
> was faded and starting to flake off.  I went to a great local Body Shop
> here in Tampa and they did it on the car for $250.00 each including the
> lower trim areas -- all on the car to boot!!!  I went with the lighter
> DMC color in clear coat (my car had one style on front and the other
> style on back but no one ever noticed).  The body shop had someone from
> Dupont come in and help them match the color.  I am very happy with the
> outcome, but you guys can judge for yourselves.
> 
> It was weird washing them both together for the first time, I would be
> polishing for a while and forget which car I was working on...  Maybe it
> was the heat, I got one heck of a sunburn and had to retire to the pool
> for about an hour to recuperate.
> 
> Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
> DMC Vin 03461
> www.fmtimemachine.com
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Message: 15        
>   Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:24:44 -0500
>   From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: Any Tennessee DeLorean Owners?
> 
> I'm in lower TN, but lower west TN, Lakeland to be exact.
> 
> Lingo #2034
> 
>> Hey Guys!
>>
>>  I was wondering if there were any DeLorean owners in the lower TN area, 
>> around Pulaski, Lawrenceburg, etc.?  If so, contact me off-list, I come up 
>> there a lot on weekends and always enjoy meeting fellow D enthusiasts/ 
>> owners.
>>
>>  Rob Greenhaw
>>  wylldshark (at) yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.2/314 - Release Date: 4/16/2006
> 
>
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.2/314 - Release Date: 4/16/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:22:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: EFI injector question



Daniel F. wrote:

>Rob Grady said that my engine was
>almost as smooth as an even fire!!!!
>
Factoid for you - the even fire engines actually oscillate unless it's a 
late european one with a balance shaft to prevent it, identified by a 
much taller RH rocker cover.

I agree though, you won't beat EFI for smoothness.

Martin






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 18:22:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start cold

That damm air tube is a common source of vacuum leaks. I have seen
cars where the end of the tube is mangled, the brass cup that holds
the "O" ring is mangled, and the "O" ring is floating on the tube not
sealing to the housing. Another common area for vacuum leaks is all
the little hoses on the front of the motor. When working in that tight
area it is easy to knock things loose so whenever you work in front of
the motor you have to look around and make sure everything is still
connected when you are done. The other common source of vacuum leaks
is injector seals that are hard. They should be soft so they still
seal. I have found "uncommon" leaks too. On one car the plastic tube
that carries vacuum to the mode switch had a hole rubbed into it under
the center console. On another car the large vacuum hose going to the
brake booster had a hole in it. The moral here is you have to test ALL
the vacuum hoses. On a 25 year old car they should all be replaced
anyway. If they are not pliable and soft then they won't seal. If they
get real hard they can crack. Don't forget there is a vacuum resovoir
inside the left rear pontoon. Vacuum hoses too. A bunch of small leaks
add up to a lot of air.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I spent a lot of $ working on the same problem, I had a vacuum leak.
> Once fixed everything was perfect.  Mine was the metal tube that runs
> into the bottom of the air flow meter assembly from the idle speed
> motor, yours may differ.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 15:06:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Alternator Squeal

I have a squealing noise coming from my alternator when I first start
the car.  Once the engine runs from a few seconds to a minute, the
noise stops.  The belt is not slipping.

I'm wondering if this is a common D problem that I've just never
experienced before with my 2 cars.  Is this possibly a bearing problem
that can be easily repaired?

Thanks,

Woody


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 23:09:41 +0100
From: "Paul" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Hot start and Wings A Loft

Well guys the accumulator has done the job.  Initially after replacement
there were a few starting issues as mentioned but all seems to have settled
down and running sweet as a nut now.  I also fitted the Wings a Loft (Or
rather I fitted the actuators and Alistair McCann kindly, came down and
sorted the wiring out for me).

I would definitely recommend the kit 110%.  As well as popping the doors it
also automatically locks the doors after 30 seconds with the key in the
ignition, door opens after engine shut off and key removal and its also a
car alarm.  We had a bit of difficulty with getting both doors to "pop" at
the same time but think the diode is perhaps to blame so gonna try replacing
it.  My passenger door is sticking a bit now but thatís the actual trim
holding it from opening so just have to track which bit.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice on Wings A Loft and the hot start problem
including the couple of PM replies.

Hope you all had a nice Easter.

Paul J 
Belfast
2493

 

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.2/314 - Release Date: 16/04/2006
 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:42:02 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Record raffle car sales

WOW
 
Today you all were busy
 
For this car we usually get sporatic sales and other than the occasional 10  
ticket sales by one individual sales are between $0 and $250 a day.
 
Today in one day we sold $800 worth or 16 tickets.  That is the most  one day 
sales of a raffle car ticket we have had. 
 
The raffle car now has been in its final stage of clean up and it runs  
great, looks great and will give someone a great car.  I have about 3800  miles on 
the car myself and it drove in the St Patricks day parade plus its been  
driven around here locally since.
 
We are upgrading the door lock solenoids as one went bad this week (  
compliments of Toby and Misty Peterson).  So both will be replaced.
 
The list of repaired items is growing but it is nowhere near the last  raffle 
car and that car is doing fine.
 
Thanks for your support.  We are almost at the halfway point in ticket  sales 
for the car.
Remember we have a 600 ticket sale limit.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 15:14:38 -0700
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Millennium Concours registrations now up to 6

I pointed out in my brief update a few days ago that 5 competitors had
registered for the concours at DCS. With a recent new registration, the
competitor count is now up to 6, which I think makes this the best
attended concours of this millennium (pun intended). With 6 competitors
the ranks are pretty full, but since the facilities Ken is providing to
us give us some elbow room, we can still accommodate another competitor
with sufficient advance notice. If you're considering showing off your
pride and joy in a lineup with the best in the community, don't
procrastinate in signing up (we don't plan on having an overflow
concours at the Hampton Inn).

 

The Millennium Concours should be quite a show this time and I think
we'll see the best lineup and stiffest competition in quite some time. I
think you'll all enjoy the lineup of exceptional cars.

 

The only downside so far is that Ken isn't competing to take 2nd place
;-)

 

            Knut

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 18:43:52 -0400
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Coolant Bottle Wanted...

Hi...  Does anybody have an original-style coolant bottle that's not 
being used?  Maybe from an upgrade to a metal one?  Mine looks like the 
plastic is getting brittle, so I want to change it before the car goes 
on the road next month.  I prefer to NOT replace with a 
stainless/aluminum one; I like the stock one where I can see the coolant 
level easily, but I'd consider the metal one if that's all I could get. 

I figure I'd try the list folks here first, to possibly save a few 
bucks, before going to one of the vendors for a new replacement.  So, if 
anybody has one available that's in good condition & that they don't 
need, please e-mail me off-list to discuss price & shipping (I am in 
Toronto, Canada).

Thanks!
- ed

-- 

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 21:06:36 -0400
From: "Ken Baker" <kenbaker1265_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Record raffle car sales

Ken,

How much are the raffle tickets and how do I buy one?

Best Regards,

Ken Baker
Sales Executive
Rolls-Royce/Bentley Fort Lauderdale
561-866-1601
www.bentleyfortlauderdale.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:42 PM
Subject: [DML] Record raffle car sales


> WOW
>
> Today you all were busy
>
> For this car we usually get sporatic sales and other than the occasional 
> 10
> ticket sales by one individual sales are between $0 and $250 a day.
>
> Today in one day we sold $800 worth or 16 tickets.  That is the most  one 
> day
> sales of a raffle car ticket we have had.
>
> The raffle car now has been in its final stage of clean up and it runs
> great, looks great and will give someone a great car.  I have about 3800 
> miles on
> the car myself and it drove in the St Patricks day parade plus its been
> driven around here locally since.
>
> We are upgrading the door lock solenoids as one went bad this week (
> compliments of Toby and Misty Peterson).  So both will be replaced.
>
> The list of repaired items is growing but it is nowhere near the last 
> raffle
> car and that car is doing fine.
>
> Thanks for your support.  We are almost at the halfway point in ticket 
> sales
> for the car.
> Remember we have a 600 ticket sale limit.
>
> Ken
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 22:11:38 -0400
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Coolant bottle consensus

Hi all...  While I'm on my quest for a replacement coolant bottle:

What is the consensus on the metal coolant bottles when it comes to 
stainless-steel vs. aluminum?  I seem to recall posts about the 
stainless-steel ones causing "problems" with the coolant?  What would 
these problems be?  Or am I mistaken in my recollection...?  Or does it 
really matter?

I also was thinking of using a pressurized bottle with a level sensor; 
something from another car, but similar in size/shape/volume.  Somebody 
on the list a while back mentioned one from a late 1980's BMW would work 
as a replacement for the stock DeLorean coolant bottle.  Can anybody 
verify this with a specific BMW model number?  It would be a nice 
project to use this & add a level sensor light somewhere in the dash if 
possible -- and the price is right if I go to my local wrecker's.  I'm 
having a hard time wrapping my head around spending about $200 CDN 
(after shipping & exchange) just for a coolant bottle - even if it is 
all flashy-stainless-steel-looking, sitting in the engine bay where 
nobody will see it...

- ed

-- 

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 02:46:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Squeal

Verify that it is the alternator. One way to do that would be to start
the car with the alternator belt removed. If there is no squeal put
the belt back on. If it now squeals you have narrowed it down to the
alternator. Make sure you are using the correct belt. It MUST NOT
touch on the bottom, only the sides of the Vee. If the alternator is
the source of the squeal it is probably a sign that the bearings will
fail soon. Check that the belt is not slipping. With the motor STOPPED
grab the alternator fan and try to turn the alternator. If the belt
slips easily then something is wrong. It is also possible one or both
of the 2 idler pully bearings are bad. Just replace them, they are
inexpensive. If the belts are over 10 years old they should also be
replaced.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I have a squealing noise coming from my alternator when I first start
> the car.  Once the engine runs from a few seconds to a minute, the
> noise stops.  The belt is not slipping.
> 
> I'm wondering if this is a common D problem that I've just never
> experienced before with my 2 cars.  Is this possibly a bearing problem
> that can be easily repaired?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:04:38 -0700
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Squeal

  I would still bet your belt is slipping some, the alternator has to work 
hard at first to make up for the draw down on the battery from starting the 
engine, try spraying some thing on the belt  when squealing, wd 40, rub a 
bar of soap on the running belt, anything that will change the friction of 
the belt, if it stops you found the problem, if not try a new belt, these 
belts have to be real snug or some slippage will happen.
Lloyd---3502






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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:03:39 -0700
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Won't start cold

i'm going to hijaak this thread and ask an oddball question.
could the vacuum lines introduce exhaust odor to the cabin? I know
that in theory this shouldn't happen since the vacuum lines should be
the absence of air but I have to wonder.
I still come out smelling like car exhaust after a drive, always have.
 i've done exhaust gaskets twice (second time with dmch perf setup),
gone around and sealed all wire pass throughs except the large
collection  behind passenger, and even in battery and locked
compartment. the only bits left to do are the rear glass seals, the
said wire bits not done, and lift center console and check all that.
perhaps now I just need to have the carpets and stuff cleaned from
pervious years collection of smells.
opinions?
-kevin

On 4/17/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> That damm air tube is a common source of vacuum leaks. I have seen
> cars where the end of the tube is mangled, the brass cup that holds
> the "O" ring is mangled, and the "O" ring is floating on the tube not
> sealing to the housing. Another common area for vacuum leaks is all
> the little hoses on the front of the motor. When working in that tight
> area it is easy to knock things loose so whenever you work in front of
> the motor you have to look around and make sure everything is still
> connected when you are done. The other common source of vacuum leaks
> is injector seals that are hard. They should be soft so they still
> seal. I have found "uncommon" leaks too. On one car the plastic tube
> that carries vacuum to the mode switch had a hole rubbed into it under
> the center console. On another car the large vacuum hose going to the
> brake booster had a hole in it. The moral here is you have to test ALL
> the vacuum hoses. On a 25 year old car they should all be replaced
> anyway. If they are not pliable and soft then they won't seal. If they
> get real hard they can crack. Don't forget there is a vacuum resovoir
> inside the left rear pontoon. Vacuum hoses too. A bunch of small leaks
> add up to a lot of air.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > I spent a lot of $ working on the same problem, I had a vacuum leak.
> > Once fixed everything was perfect.  Mine was the metal tube that runs
> > into the bottom of the air flow meter assembly from the idle speed
> > motor, yours may differ.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


--
-Kevin




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 05:07:02 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My coolant bottle fix

Some will hate it, others will be intrigued....

I decide that it was time to do something about my coolant bottle. It 
had the typical discoloration and cracking towards the back (I was 
told this is due to the return input spraying hot coolant at that 
area) I made up my mind that before I plunk down some change on a SS 
aftermarket bottle I would attempt to reinforce my stock bottle. I 
used some fiberglass (not sure the ounce) that you can find at any 
hobby shop and Aerpoxy ES6209 to set it up. In case some of you are 
wondering ES6209 is one of the strongest epoxies in the world commonly 
used in aircraft (and in my case rocket) construction. I covered the 
entire bottle, which would now be able to hold 2700 psi if it were not 
for the cap, main hose connection, and return connection. I have no 
doubt that my new and improved bottle will hold 12 psi for ever.

Fiberglassing is not rocket science and can be learned by anyone who 
is willing and has a little patience. If anyone is interested in the 
procedure I used on my bottle feel free to email: valleyrat_at_dml_gmail.com

Nathan
2277








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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:23:32 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Hot start and Wings A Loft

Hi Paul,

my experience with both doors not opening at the same time is not
due to the diodes, instead I had to replace the relays with ones that
need less current to switch. The output-port of the alarm-system
simply can't drive enough current for two relays.

Elvis & 6548







Well guys the accumulator has done the job.  Initially after replacement
there were a few starting issues as mentioned but all seems to have settled
down and running sweet as a nut now.  I also fitted the Wings a Loft (Or
rather I fitted the actuators and Alistair McCann kindly, came down and
sorted the wiring out for me).

I would definitely recommend the kit 110%.  As well as popping the doors it
also automatically locks the doors after 30 seconds with the key in the
ignition, door opens after engine shut off and key removal and its also a
car alarm.  We had a bit of difficulty with getting both doors to "pop" at
the same time but think the diode is perhaps to blame so gonna try replacing
it.  My passenger door is sticking a bit now but thatís the actual trim
holding it from opening so just have to track which bit.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice on Wings A Loft and the hot start problem
including the couple of PM replies.

Hope you all had a nice Easter.

Paul J
Belfast
2493








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 04:44:33 -0000
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Mechanic in Tampa Bay area

Walter Coe has a high degree of knowledge and experience working with 
D's.  I wouldn't hesitate to contact him for help.







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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 04:42:00 -0000
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Top speed for automatics

I read the postings for top speed but it appeared that all of the 
claims were top end of 5 speeds.  What is the difference of top end 
between automatics and shifters and how about 0-60?







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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 05:09:14 -0000
From: "John" <john.geuley_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Front Suspension problem..

Hi,

  I have recently noticed that on the front suspension on one side
  that the front suspension strut sits closer to the front spring 
  than on the other !! 

  On the good side the strut sits exactly in the middle of the 
  front suspension spring.

  I have so far...

    Replaced the spring.. (Same result)

    Replaced the lower link bush (Same result)
    (This WAS worn and has helped slightly)

    Replaced the stabiliser bar bushing (Same result)

  Has anyone else had/seen the same problem.. 

  The car is still driveable in this state and will pass a UK MOT
  as it is but I would like to get it right..
 
  Could it be a damaged lower link ?
  (It looks ok and does not seem to be twisted)

  Any suggestions would be gratefully received..

John G.

England.









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