From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3207

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Record raffle car sales
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: My coolant bottle fix
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: Re: Won't start cold
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

4. Engine Taps for Turbo Oil Supply and Return
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

5. Re: Top speed for automatics
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. HELP - Engine will not start!
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

7. Re: Record raffle car sales
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Re: Exhaust odors - was Won't start cold
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

9. Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

10. DCS Vin# Lineup
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk

11. Re: My coolant bottle fix PICS ADDED
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. DCS Vin# Lineup
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk

13. Re: Coolant bottle consensus
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. AW: Re: Coolant bottle consensus
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

15. Re: Engine Taps for Turbo Oil Supply and Return
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Looking for Dave Brennan
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

17. Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

18. Anyone going to Eurofest 2006?
From: "Christopher W. North" <chris.north_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: Efi question
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

22. Air meter- cold start repost
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

23. Re: Top speed for automatics
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Anyone going to Eurofest 2006?
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: DCS Vin# Lineup
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:51:55 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Record raffle car sales

Raffle tickets are $50 each and you can buy them at _www.deloreancarshow.com_
(http://www.deloreancarshow.com)
click on anything that says raffle car and it will take you to the  store.
 
thanks
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:49:22 -0400
From: Michael Babb <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: My coolant bottle fix

I for one would be interested in seeing pictures of what your collant bottle looks like now.

Michael Babb
mcb at babbtechnology . com

Nathan Sobieralski wrote:
> Some will hate it, others will be intrigued....
>
> I decide that it was time to do something about my coolant bottle. It 
> had the typical discoloration and cracking towards the back (I was 
> told this is due to the return input spraying hot coolant at that
> area) I made up my mind that before I plunk down some change on a SS 
> aftermarket bottle I would attempt to reinforce my stock bottle. I 
> used some fiberglass (not sure the ounce) that you can find at any 
> hobby shop and Aerpoxy ES6209 to set it up. In case some of you are 
> wondering ES6209 is one of the strongest epoxies in the world commonly 
> used in aircraft (and in my case rocket) construction. I covered the 
> entire bottle, which would now be able to hold 2700 psi if it were not 
> for the cap, main hose connection, and return connection. I have no 
> doubt that my new and improved bottle will hold 12 psi for ever.
>
>   





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 08:11:45 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Won't start cold

Catalyzed exhausts don't smell very strongly and new gaskets should eleminate any leak on your car.  Are you smelling fuel?  That would explain a lot and make it easier to diagnose and fix.  Cleaning the carpets is a good idea.
Warren at DMC


kjc wrote:
> i'm going to hijaak this thread and ask an oddball question.
> could the vacuum lines introduce exhaust odor to the cabin? I know 
> that in theory this shouldn't happen since the vacuum lines should be 
> the absence of air but I have to wonder.
> I still come out smelling like car exhaust after a drive, always have.
>  i've done exhaust gaskets twice (second time with dmch perf setup), 
> gone around and sealed all wire pass throughs except the large 
> collection  behind passenger, and even in battery and locked 
> compartment. the only bits left to do are the rear glass seals, the 
> said wire bits not done, and lift center console and check all that.
> perhaps now I just need to have the carpets and stuff cleaned from 
> pervious years collection of smells.
> opinions?
> -kevin
> 
> On 4/17/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> 
>>That damm air tube is a common source of vacuum leaks. I have seen 
>>cars where the end of the tube is mangled, the brass cup that holds 
>>the "O" ring is mangled, and the "O" ring is floating on the tube not 
>>sealing to the housing. Another common area for vacuum leaks is all 
>>the little hoses on the front of the motor. When working in that tight 
>>area it is easy to knock things loose so whenever you work in front of 
>>the motor you have to look around and make sure everything is still 
>>connected when you are done. The other common source of vacuum leaks 
>>is injector seals that are hard. They should be soft so they still 
>>seal. I have found "uncommon" leaks too. On one car the plastic tube 
>>that carries vacuum to the mode switch had a hole rubbed into it under 
>>the center console. On another car the large vacuum hose going to the 
>>brake booster had a hole in it. The moral here is you have to test ALL 
>>the vacuum hoses. On a 25 year old car they should all be replaced 
>>anyway. If they are not pliable and soft then they won't seal. If they 
>>get real hard they can crack. Don't forget there is a vacuum resovoir 
>>inside the left rear pontoon. Vacuum hoses too. A bunch of small leaks 
>>add up to a lot of air.
>>David Teitelbaum
>>vin 10757
>>
>>
>>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>>>I spent a lot of $ working on the same problem, I had a vacuum leak.
>>>Once fixed everything was perfect.  Mine was the metal tube that runs 
>>>into the bottom of the air flow meter assembly from the idle speed 
>>>motor, yours may differ.
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
>>>Behalf
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>>
>>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
>>www.dmcnews.com
>>
>>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> --
> -Kevin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 13:00:01 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Engine Taps for Turbo Oil Supply and Return

I would like to see some comparison pictures of where on the engine block engine oil is returned back from the turbo on single and twin turbo systems. I would also like to to get a look at any differences there are between turbo oil supply methods.

According to the DMC Only Turbo Kit, the turbo oil supply is taken from a "T" that is added between the block and oil pressure sender. 
The turbo oil return is drilled and tapped near the rear of the engine on the driver's side, above and between the last two bolts holding the oil pan.

I have created a "TURBO OILER" folder in the Photos section, if you have a turbocharged DeLorean, please take a couple pictures of how your Turbo Oil is supplied from and returned to the engine and upload them for comparison. Please no redundant pictures is methods and locations are the same as previous pictures. The folder is empty as of this writing.

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Arizona DeLorean Club, Car Cruise Director - VIN 10365







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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 07:03:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Top speed for automatics

DMCgreece,
   
  Top end in the automatics is the same as the five speeds, its just getting there that is different.  As far as 0-60 goes for automatics, I have wondered that myself
   
  -Chris
  VIN 06453

dmcgreece <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
  I read the postings for top speed but it appeared that all of the claims were top end of 5 speeds. What is the difference of top end between automatics and shifters and how about 0-60?







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 14:36:41 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: HELP - Engine will not start!

I took the car for a hour long drive on Saturday, came home and 
parked it in the driveway. The car has been running perfectly before 
this.  New wires, coil, plugs, cap and rotor, new fuel filter, etc., 
last Fall.   After about 20 minutes the car wouldn't start.  I had a 
hot start problem that I believe I solved with a new accumulator a 
couple of weeks before.  I thought that might still be it.  However, 
3 hours later the car would still not start.  It did not start cold 
the next morning.  The car will not start hot or cold.  It cranks and 
cranks but will not fire.  The fuel pump works (I jumped it).

The only thing I was doing after the car ran on Saturday, was that I 
was checking the relay compartment and the dash gauge wiring because 
the tachometer was not working.  Could I have loosened a connection 
somewhere?  Everything seems connected and tight after rechecking 
fuses and relays.  Could something have clogged the fuel line or 
filter after changing the accumulator.  I would have thought that the 
car would have least fired after my smooth Saturday run.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Paul








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 15:05:48 -0000
From: "gbsdelorean" <gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Record raffle car sales

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ken Baker" <kenbaker1265_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
> 
> How much are the raffle tickets and how do I buy one?
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Ken Baker

Your post is timely...
I just got a reply from purchasing mine...

_______________________

Hi
Thank you for purchasing the raffle ticket for the DCS
You should have a paypal or visa receipt from your payment to Josh 
and in early June we will print the tickets out.
A souvineer ticket will be mailed to you and the actual ticket will 
be on  
display about an hour before the raffle in Chicago.  
 
All the tickets will then be put in the Barrel and the winning 
ticket  drawn.
 
The winner if not at the show will be called from the stage about 7-
8PM on  
Saturday June 17th.
 
Your receipt is this letter, the paid invoice and your souvineer  
ticket that you will receive in June
 
thanks
 
Ken 
DeLorean Car Show Inc.

____________________

Now, maybe I am misunderstanding this email but...

I was really expecting a ticket stub with a number between 1 - 600.
I am sure the folks who are in charge are all stand up people,  
but -

Somehow - if I am understanding the raffle correctly - the process 
needs to be more transparent.

I would feel better about this if each purchaser were assigned a 
number, posting it here before the drawing, and then after, posting 
the winning number for all to see.

Just my two cents...

GBSDelorean

 








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 09:28:18 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Exhaust odors - was Won't start cold

Me too.  It has gotten a lot better since I liberally applied Fabreeze
to the carpets (headliners are all new).  I used to really notice the
smell before, now only my wife can smell it.



-----Original Message-----

I still come out smelling like car exhaust after a drive, always have. 




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:23:34 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message

I'm not sure what the problem was.  My battery may have been low on 
charge from the cranking.  I jumped the battery with my other car and 
the D started up fine.  I'm not sure if I still have a hot start issue, 
or perhaps a bad connection I may have reconnected - I'm not sure. In 
eitehr case, the car seems fine right.

Paul







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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:55:22 +0200 (CEST)
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: DCS Vin# Lineup

Ken

Is it possible to get a VIN# License Plate even without my car being at the show? What will the plate be like?

Regards

Chris






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 15:54:22 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My coolant bottle fix PICS ADDED

I added a picture folder with a couple shots of the bottle installed 
in my car. Look for "fiberglassed coolant bottle"

Nathan
2277


> entire bottle, which would now be able to hold 2700 psi if it were 
not 
> for the cap, main hose connection, and return connection. I have no 
> doubt that my new and improved bottle will hold 12 psi for ever.
> 
> Fiberglassing is not rocket science and can be learned by anyone who 
> is willing and has a little patience. If anyone is interested in the 
> procedure I used on my bottle feel free to email: valleyrat_at_dml_...
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>








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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:55:22 +0200 (CEST)
From: chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk
Subject: DCS Vin# Lineup

Ken

Is it possible to get a VIN# License Plate even without my car being at the show? What will the plate be like?

Regards

Chris






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 15:48:57 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant bottle consensus

Nothing's exact, but wander thru the boneyards looking at 1984-1991 
BMW 3-series (i.e. 325). The 5- series probably uses something 
similar. They use a more square-off plastic bottle, mounted on the 
drivers side of the engine compartment above the fender. There will 
be a level sender in the bottle. It is NOT a bolt-on replacement, you 
will have to adapt hose size and mounting. If I recall correctly the 
hose attaches at the bottom of the bottle rather than one end. Make 
sure you get the electrical plug for the sender i.e. cut it off the 
donor car. 

Once you figure out the fit, you can get a brand new one from the 
dealer or likely from Bavarian Auto. Probably for about the cost of a 
stainless DMC bottle. 

As for your original question  - I have several original (very used) 
plastic DMC water bottles laying around from metal conversions, none 
of which I'd trust on a car that I was driving farther than the local 
K-Mart. They hold water, at least they did when removed from the car. 
What's it worth to you? 

PS - Doesn't your 928S have a similar bottle on it? 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi all...  While I'm on my quest for a replacement coolant bottle:
> 
> What is the consensus on the metal coolant bottles when it comes to 
> stainless-steel vs. aluminum?  I seem to recall posts about the 
> stainless-steel ones causing "problems" with the coolant?  What 
would 
> these problems be?  Or am I mistaken in my recollection...?  Or 
does it 
> really matter?
> 
> I also was thinking of using a pressurized bottle with a level 
sensor; 
> something from another car, but similar in size/shape/volume.  
Somebody 
> on the list a while back mentioned one from a late 1980's BMW would 
work 
> as a replacement for the stock DeLorean coolant bottle.  Can 
anybody 
> verify this with a specific BMW model number?  It would be a nice 
> project to use this & add a level sensor light somewhere in the 
dash if 
> possible -- and the price is right if I go to my local wrecker's.  
I'm 
> having a hard time wrapping my head around spending about $200 CDN 
> (after shipping & exchange) just for a coolant bottle - even if it 
is 
> all flashy-stainless-steel-looking, sitting in the engine bay where 
> nobody will see it...
> 
> - ed
> 
> -- 
> 
> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
> 1986.5 928S
> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>










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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 19:00:16 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Coolant bottle consensus


Guys there are several BMW water bottels that are very similar to ours.
one with sensor, one without, one with the same cap, others with 
differnet caps...

The price for the bottle, lever sender and cap are - at least 
here in gemany - much lower than the price for a metal bottle.


And just the fact that I can see the water level even without 
lifting the louvre is a reason for me to keep it in the car.
As long as thre are no metal bottles with low water senders
I won't install them anymore. (LAMBDA light will be activated
and a buzzer will inform me, too.)

It's nice to have stainless steel in the engine compartment,
but it's even nicer to have a non overheating engine :-)

I guess DPNW can help you to get those BMW water bottles in the US.

Elvis & 6548




Nothing's exact, but wander thru the boneyards looking at 1984-1991 
BMW 3-series (i.e. 325). The 5- series probably uses something 
similar. They use a more square-off plastic bottle, mounted on the 
drivers side of the engine compartment above the fender. There will 
be a level sender in the bottle. It is NOT a bolt-on replacement, you 
will have to adapt hose size and mounting. If I recall correctly the 
hose attaches at the bottom of the bottle rather than one end. Make 
sure you get the electrical plug for the sender i.e. cut it off the 
donor car. 

Once you figure out the fit, you can get a brand new one from the 
dealer or likely from Bavarian Auto. Probably for about the cost of a 
stainless DMC bottle. 

As for your original question  - I have several original (very used) 
plastic DMC water bottles laying around from metal conversions, none 
of which I'd trust on a car that I was driving farther than the local 
K-Mart. They hold water, at least they did when removed from the car. 
What's it worth to you? 

PS - Doesn't your 928S have a similar bottle on it? 

Dave Swingle





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:14:49 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Engine Taps for Turbo Oil Supply and Return

Renault 25 turbo picks up the oil feed from the port above the oil 
pressure switch. It uses a great big banjo connection there. The return 
feed goes into the opposite side of the engine where the DeLorean has a 
blanked port, used by NA Renault engines as an oil temp sender (with a 
really long probe). The Island twin turbo picks the feed up as above (at 
least on the installation I'm working on) and there are two seperate 
returns tapped into the crank case.

Martin

captain_hydrogen wrote:

>I would like to see some comparison pictures of where on the engine 
>block engine oil is returned back from the turbo on single and twin 
>turbo systems. I would also like to to get a look at any differences 
>there are between turbo oil supply methods.
>  
>







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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:26:42 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Looking for Dave Brennan

Sorry to have to use the DML for this but I'm looking for Dave 
Brennan. Please contact me offline. Thanks.

Shannon







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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:00:52 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message

I'm not sure what the problem was.  My battery may have been low on 
charge from the cranking.  I jumped the battery with my other car and 
the D started up fine.  I'm not sure if I still have a hot start issue, 
or perhaps a bad connection I may have reconnected - I'm not sure. In 
eitehr case, the car seems fine right.

Paul








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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 19:47:32 -0000
From: "Christopher W. North" <chris.north_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Anyone going to Eurofest 2006?

Hello gang.  I'm new to the DeLorean community and am looking to get 
involved, especially in my local area of Houston, TX.  I'm planning to 
attend the Eurofest 2006 event and was curious to know if anyone from 
the mailing list was planning to attend, especially you fellow 
Houstonians out there.  I'm looking forward to meeting you in Ireland 
and perhaps even seeing you back here on the road.

Hope to see you soon.

Chris
#1722







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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 04:10:36 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new

I figured what the hell; I have a top secret DeLorean that will be 
hitting the market very soon. I grew up with two DeLorean's in the 
family and still have them. This particular one came into my 
possession by the original owner. I co own and working with him to 
sell the car. I have been commissioned to restore the car to 
pristine factory condition. I couldn't believe my eyes the first 
time I seen this thing. Original Blue shocks, undercarriage 
literally off the boat. Interior smells new(I am not crazy, I am 
deadly serious). Black Leather, Automatic, grooved hood, fender 
antenna, no add ons, no molestation. Car had zero recall updates. 
All updates are being performed as we speak. The car is complete and 
will undergo the proper detailing by my hands very soon. I cannot 
wait. The car will not be sold any less than $40,000
Or I will simply purchase the car and sit on it as I have an agreed 
contracted price with the owner.
Pictures and advertising will commence the weekend of April 28th.
This car will have a 1 month warranty that will yet be determined. 
Free pickup and delivery with any warranty claim within a 100 mile 
radius of Waterford, MI and 100 mile radius of Delaware Ohio.
Please read on for Historical description:


1981 Delorean - Original Owner

Vehicle Identification No. SCEDT26TXBD002734

Purchased new Nov 6 1981 from Tamaroff Buick-DMC-Honda in 
Southfield, MI

I have the Original State of Michigan gold-embossed title (12-15-
81), Original Bill of Sale and 1983 Insurance Certificate

Under 3000 original miles

Original tires replaced twice due to flat spots from storage 
(sometimes sat for 3 consecutive years without moving).  Always 
stored indoors in garage or enclosed airport hangar. Purchased 
nearly new NCT's to either be placed on the car or provided with the 
sale. tires still have knubs.

Never driven in winter (no snow or salt)

The car was purchased by a gentleman for investment and nostalgia 
purposes only.  He had several other cars that he preferred to drive 
because the DeLorean attracted too much attention, especially in a 
small town, and he was always afraid of hitting a deer or someone 
intentionally defacing it while parked.  He purchased an '81 
Mercedes 380SLC (still has it) a few months before the DeLorean and 
his daily driver was a '77 Mercedes 450SL, so the DeLorean basically 
sat in the garage with a cover over it.  The longest drive the 
DeLorean ever had was the 200 mile trek from the dealer to his home 
when he bought it.  It was driven a few times to Grand Rapids for 
servicing (150 mile round trip) in the mid-80s and by 1990 it was 
pretty much mothballed.  

Owners Manual and Service Manual are included with the car.  All the 
maintenance and service records were destroyed with lots of old 
business records when a warehouse roof sprung a nasty leak during a 
rain storm (mid-90s).  The legal documents were not warehoused so 
they have been well preserved.











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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 22:40:16 -0000
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Efi question

Hi Martin,

I am expecting the guy here within the hour with his lap top to get 
a start up map in the ECU. Exciting stuff! first time in almost 15 
years that this thing will (should) burst into life!

I did had the distributor removed and rebuilt. At the same time i 
had the advance weights locked up and i ground all but 1 pick up lug 
off. I have tested it on the bench and get a very nice looking 
signal for a cam position reference.

I am still using the distruibutor to distribute the spark but have 
the computer triggering an ignitor making it fully sequential, but 
as you noted not overly nessacery.

The new engine loom is in and very neat and compact compared to the 
old one!
  
Will keep you updated.


Cheers, Nick


Nick wrote:

>Martin -  Sounds like a great kit you are offering 
>
Not yet...... trying to get one built for Eurofest, but the crucial 
bit 
we were waiting on was the "if" the ECU could be adapted for odd-
fire. 
It can and has been shown on a bench to successfully trigger the 
stock 
ignition amplifier. There is no real reason to bin the distributor, 
but 
the advance weights will need to be immobilised. We have enough 
spare 
distributors to do this on exchange though! Only one incarnation of 
the 
PRV did not use a distributor of some kind, and only then because it 
didn't fit in the engine bay.

We've been tuning D engines for 3 years now and the biggest single 
gain 
before going to internals is re-mapping the ignition curve.

>FYI I have the ECU activating off a 3 x 120 deg crank triggered 
hall 
>sensor. I had a custom front pulley made for this and modified the 
>distrubutor so that i only get a single cam trigger.
>
Our ECU interpolates the original distributor signal beautifully for 
both TDC and phase (because being odd-fire the pattern repeats every 
two 
revolutions). We're going batch fired because I don't really see the 
point of full sequential on an old engine like this but we're only 
triggering once per 2 revolutions.

#2727's twin turbo is also progressing. A Renault 25 turbo flywheel 
has 
been machined to remove the peculiar "double tooth" pattern and now 
has 
a 66/3 pattern, again adapted for us in a special version of 
firmware. 
I 
picked up a 25 turbo bellhousing on ebay UK and that has now been 
built 
into a donor transmission (#2727 -was- an auto) and is looking all 
spangly ready to be mated to the engine which as of today is now 
internally finished and awaiting cleaning and a lick of paint. 
That's 
an 
even fire 2458cc Renaul 25 turbo engine built into a DeLorean block 
with 
R25 heads and the Island kit that came with the car.

>The ECU (haltech) i am using is fully programmable to adapt to odd 
>fire meaning i can also trigger the injectors at the correct times 
>etc..
>
The biggie is mapping the ignition. Especially with a supercharger 
you 
need that.

>It was hard to believe the amount of wiring i cut out of the engine 
>bay by removing the K jetronic.
>
With a stock of new rists conectiors, expect a new loom to be made :-
)

Martin









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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 00:07:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Got the car started -disregard previous HELP message

If it took jumping the battery to get the car started that would mean
the voltage to the ignition was too low to get a good spark (assuming
the starter was cranking the motor over fast enough without jumping
the battery). This is not normal. There is a bad/dirty connection
somewhere between the battery and the ignition. I would start by
testing the battery and cleaning all of the big connections. I would
then check the voltage going to the ignition ECU. Don't forget to
check and clean ground connections. As for your hot-start, try the
plug swap to confirm low rest pressure. It "should" start right up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure what the problem was.  My battery may have been low on 
> charge from the cranking.  I jumped the battery with my other car and 
> the D started up fine.  I'm not sure if I still have a hot start issue, 
> or perhaps a bad connection I may have reconnected - I'm not sure. In 
> eitehr case, the car seems fine right.
> 
> Paul
>








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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 19:12:30 -0400
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Air meter- cold start repost

    I posted this earlier and never heard anything so I'm trying again. Thanks
in advance...............#5903

Well, I got my car fired up again finally. As I stated before it had a problem
with cold starting. I tried grounding the wire on the thermotime switch and that
didn't help. When I push down on the air meter and then try starting it , it fires 
up. It just won't idle until good until it warms up. What should be my next step
to try? Thanks in advance.................Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 22:40:12 -0000
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Top speed for automatics

I'm always somewhat reluctant to get into these "top speed" or "mpg" 
discussions because there is always somebody who "knows better".  
However, I'll jump in only because I'm not a coward and I've owned 
both of them.

Theoretically, the auto has to have a lower top speed because the 
final drive ratio in the auto is the same as the final drive ratio 
of FOURTH gear in the 5 speed.  However, getting to maximum rpms in 
fifth gear for a long enough period of time to notice any real 
difference is probably a bit iffy.

And, even more likely to be challenged is the 0-60 times.  Let's 
just say that my personal experience leads me to believe that the 
auto is slower by almost 3 seconds.


Your experience may vary!!!!!

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack 
<christopher_mack_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> DMCgreece,
>    
>   Top end in the automatics is the same as the five speeds, its 
just getting there that is different.  As far as 0-60 goes for 
automatics, I have wondered that myself
>    
>   -Chris
>   VIN 06453
> 
> dmcgreece <dmcgreece_at_dml_...> wrote:
>   I read the postings for top speed but it appeared that all of 
the 
> claims were top end of 5 speeds. What is the difference of top end 
> between automatics and shifters and how about 0-60?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:08:42 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Anyone going to Eurofest 2006?

I'll be there 
 
 
Ken 
 
DeLorean Car Show Inc.
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:12:05 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DCS Vin# Lineup

The plate is on the web page its the same as the logo but we added yellow  
and some detail words.
 
Of course you can order it 
 
I will be doing them in May so You need to remind me to send it or if I  have 
any left after the show I will mail them out.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


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