From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 4:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3209

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

2. Re: Stainless Steel
From: "Susan Zimmer" <zimmer_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

4. Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

5. Re: 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

9. Re: Stainless Steel
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>

10. Pheasant Run Room available
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Ottawa Ontario Owners
From: "Ken - ODOC \(Ontario DeLorean Owners Club\)" <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>

12. Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

13. Pheasant Run Room
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 23:13:39 -0400
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: RE: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

Hi
The symptoms you're describing can either mean that your A/C is perfectly fine or that you have a small leak. It depends on the outside temperature. The colder it is the shorter the compressor will stay on and the hotter it is the longer it will stay on. It also depends on the engine rpm. A short cycle as you described at idle would mean it's ok as long as the outside temperature was around 60 degrees F. If the temperature was higher than that it probably means you have lost some of the refrigerant over the winter which is to be expected with R-134a refrigerant and old R-12 hoses. The reason for that is because of the molecule size difference between the refrigerants. R-134a molecules are smaller than R-12 ones. For that reason converted systems often leak slowly because the gas escapes right through the rubber hoses. The really proper way to do a conversion to R-134a is to replace all rubber hoses and use barrier hoses designed for R-134a. Or.... You can keep refilling the system every spring. Just keep in mind that the proper and only accurate way to measure the amount of refrigerant in the system is to evacuate it completely and then refill it with the proper amount of R-134a - for a DeLorean it should be about 2.0 - 2.2 lbs. of R-134a.
Hope this helps
Good luck

Tom Niemczewski (on vacation)
Vin 6149 

-----Original Message-----
> However, the constant
   >cycling of the cooling fans worries me.  The fans will stay on for only 
   >two seconds, and off for about 5 seconds, on and off on and off.  
   >Wouldn't this cause excessive wear on the fans to energize them every 5 
   >seconds, and they only stay on for 2 seconds?  It doesn't seem right.  
   >The cycle tiem seemed to be longer last year when I had it charged in 
   >August.  I have the R134 conversion.
 





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 22:57:45 -0700
From: "Susan Zimmer" <zimmer_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel

Matt,Did you ever get your answer on the 304-series stainless steel used on the DMC?    
We found this composition description on the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) website.Susan Zimmer & DyAnne Weamire"NO WAX"#16409 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     
     
     
      Grade 304 is the standard "18/8" stainless; it is the most versatile and most widely used stainless steel, available in a wider range of products, forms and finishes than any other. It has excellent forming and welding characteristics. The balanced austenitic structure of Grade 304 enables it to be severely deep drawn without intermediate annealing, which has made this grade dominant in the manufacture of drawn stainless parts such as sinks, hollow-ware and saucepans. Grade 304 is readily brake or roll formed into a variety of components for applications in the industrial, architectural, and transportation fields. Grade 304 also has outstanding welding characteristics. Post-weld annealing is not required when welding thin sections.
     
     
      Typical compositional ranges for grade 304 stainless steels are given in table 1.

      Table 1. Composition ranges for 304 grade stainless steel

            Grade
           C
           Mn
           Si
           P
           S
           Cr
           Mo
           Ni
           N
           
            304
           min.

            max.
           -

            0.08
           -

            2.0
           -

            0.75
           -

            0.045
           -

            0.030
           18.0

            20.0
           -
           8.0

            10.5
           -

            0.10
           
                     
           
                  
           
           


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
     

----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: [DML] Stainless Steel


Out of curiosity, can anyone advise which gauge the stainless steel is on the DeLorean hood?  Also, does anyone know the composition (% chrome, % nickel, etc.) of the stainless on the Delorean?
Thanks, 
Matt Carpenter
5586
AZ-D


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:43:56 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

The outside temp was about 70 deg F, and I was cruising around town 
and not really revving the engine high.  As far as the filling of 
R134A, when I brought it in for filling last August, I belive the 
mechanic used the number from the owner's manual, as I did not know 
how much refrigerant to tell him.  However, the manual must indicate 
the amount of R-12 to use, instead of R134A.  Perhaps this is a 
problem for me. 

Paul



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi
> The symptoms you're describing can either mean that your A/C is 
perfectly fine or that you have a small leak. It depends on the 
outside temperature. The colder it is the shorter the compressor 
will stay on and the hotter it is the longer it will stay on. It 
also depends on the engine rpm. A short cycle as you described at 
idle would mean it's ok as long as the outside temperature was 
around 60 degrees F. If the temperature was higher than that it 
probably means you have lost some of the refrigerant over the winter 
which is to be expected with R-134a refrigerant and old R-12 hoses. 
The reason for that is because of the molecule size difference 
between the refrigerants. R-134a molecules are smaller than R-12 
ones. For that reason converted systems often leak slowly because 
the gas escapes right through the rubber hoses. The really proper 
way to do a conversion to R-134a is to replace all rubber hoses and 
use barrier hoses designed for R-134a. Or.... You can keep refilling 
the system every spring. Just keep in mind that the proper and only 
accurate way to measure the amount of refrigerant in the system is 
to evacuate it completely and then refill it with the proper amount 
of R-134a - for a DeLorean it should be about 2.0 - 2.2 lbs. of R-
134a.
> Hope this helps
> Good luck
> 
> Tom Niemczewski (on vacation)
> Vin 6149 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> > However, the constant 
>    >cycling of the cooling fans worries me.  The fans will stay on 
for only 
>    >two seconds, and off for about 5 seconds, on and off on and 
off.  
>    >Wouldn't this cause excessive wear on the fans to energize 
them every 5 
>    >seconds, and they only stay on for 2 seconds?  It doesn't seem 
right.  
>    >The cycle tiem seemed to be longer last year when I had it 
charged in 
>    >August.  I have the R134 conversion.
>









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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:40:14 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

I have the Special T Auto Fan Fail fix 2 x 2.  The engine cooling 
system works fine, so would the otterstat still be suspect?

Thanks for the advice,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> If you a/c is cycling in that short of time 1st what fan fail 
device 
> are you using? have you upgraded your fans? Have you checked your 
> otter switch for cracks,corrotion or bad contacts I would check 
the 
> otter switch first then try startnig your car & using the air & 
see 
> if that made a differance
> Lawrence
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > While my car was in getting lowering springs and shocks done, I 
> asked 
> > the mechanic to check out the AC.  He said it seemed to work 
fine. 
> it 
> > blows cold air and is not leaking anywhere.  However, the 
constant 
> > cycling of the cooling fans worries me.  The fans will stay on 
for 
> only 
> > two seconds, and off for about 5 seconds, on and off on and 
off.  
> > Wouldn't this cause excessive wear on the fans to energize them 
> every 5 
> > seconds, and they only stay on for 2 seconds?  It doesn't seem 
> right.  
> > The cycle tiem seemed to be longer last year when I had it 
charged 
> in 
> > August.  I have the R134 conversion.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul
> >
>








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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 06:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new

> From: "byrondelorean"
>
> Hi Joe, 
>>snip<<
> Your car sounds terrific.
> 
> Byron

If you ever get to see Joe's '83 you will be amazed at how fresh & juicy the dash
& interior looks. You will swear he has some sort of IV in his headliner and a
tube that runs down to his dash so it can drink some Armor All any time it feels
parched. The engine compartment & under carriage are just as clean & fresh! 

Shannon Y
16506

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 06:12:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1981 Delorean coming up for sale/virtually factory new



>From: "byrondelorean"
>
>>snip<<
> My fear (and why should I care really) is that 
> this car will get into the wrong hands and be 
> driven all over the place.
>>snip<<

[tone = joking humor among friends]
Oh the shame! The humanity! How could some one do such a thing... actually,
(gasp) "drive" a car... on the road! That's just silly. So on my 3yr watch with
over 42,000 miles driven did my car fall into the wrong hands?

:-)

Shannon Y
16506 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 09:23:42 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade

In a message dated 4/15/2006 10:28:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de writes:

Wayne,
if you had read the DML regularly you would know that I  started
that discussion about one year ago but people weren't  interested.>>
I scan all subject lines and read what I have an interest in. If I have  
something to add I do. I appreciate your insights. I scanned back nearly 2  years 
of your posting subjects and saw only one, "locking doors" from Nov. 04,  
which was interesting but it doesn't answer my core question: has anyone  
successfully- or unsuccessfully tried to replace their latches with ones from  another 
car so that you can close the door even if it's locked, or hit the lock  
button even if it's open? From Martin's post, and yours put together I gather  
it's feasible. But I gather that no one reports having actually done a swap out.  
And no one else has reported anything on this subject over the last few days  
since I asked. Maybe I'll just look into it myself. I'd rather risk locking 
the  keys in the car than have to pull the door panels off again because a 
passenger  does something inappropriate like hit the lock switch after I've opened 
my door. 
 
Wayne A.  Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:06:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade

I agree the door latching system on a Delorean is unique. It uses two
latches which have to work in tandem and be syncronized. To make
things a little more complicated it has the central locking system (if
it is working). If the door is properly adjusted it is not easy to
lock the door when open. It can be forced and that is one of the
failure modes. When it IS forced the linkage inside gets bent and
throws all of the adjustments off. I doubt you will be able to find
another latch that will work. You might have more luck modifying the
latches you have. In the meantime I suggest you either do the door
linkage adjustment procedure or have someone do it for you. When the
doors are properly adjusted the passenger CANNOT lock the doors if the
driver's door is still open. Maybe your best solution is to just
disconnect the locking module. If you don't have an upgraded one it
should be disconnected anyway!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/15/2006 10:28:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> elvisnocita_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> Wayne,
> if you had read the DML regularly you would know that I  started
> that discussion about one year ago but people weren't  interested.>>
> I scan all subject lines and read what I have an interest in. If I
have  
> something to add I do. I appreciate your insights. I scanned back
nearly 2  years 
> of your posting subjects and saw only one, "locking doors" from Nov.
04,  
> which was interesting but it doesn't answer my core question: has
anyone  
> successfully- or unsuccessfully tried to replace their latches with
ones from  another 
> car so that you can close the door even if it's locked, or hit the
lock  
> button even if it's open? From Martin's post, and yours put together
I gather  
> it's feasible. But I gather that no one reports having actually done
a swap out.  
> 








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 08:14:36 -0700
From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel

Susan,

Thanks for the information about 304 - I really appreciate it!

Matt Carpenter
AZ-D.ORG
VIN 5586


>From: "Susan Zimmer" <zimmer_at_dml_cox.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>CC: "_Zimmer, Susan - Unit 1" <zimmer_at_dml_cox.net>,"_Weamire, DyAnne" 
><Weamire_at_dml_cox.net>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Steel
>Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 22:57:45 -0700
>
>Matt,Did you ever get your answer on the 304-series stainless steel used on 
>the DMC?
>We found this composition description on the National Institute of 
>Standards and Technology (NIST) website.Susan Zimmer & DyAnne Weamire"NO 
>WAX"#16409
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>       Grade 304 is the standard "18/8" stainless; it is the most versatile 
>and most widely used stainless steel, available in a wider range of 
>products, forms and finishes than any other. It has excellent forming and 
>welding characteristics. The balanced austenitic structure of Grade 304 
>enables it to be severely deep drawn without intermediate annealing, which 
>has made this grade dominant in the manufacture of drawn stainless parts 
>such as sinks, hollow-ware and saucepans. Grade 304 is readily brake or 
>roll formed into a variety of components for applications in the 
>industrial, architectural, and transportation fields. Grade 304 also has 
>outstanding welding characteristics. Post-weld annealing is not required 
>when welding thin sections.
>
>
>       Typical compositional ranges for grade 304 stainless steels are 
>given in table 1.
>
>       Table 1. Composition ranges for 304 grade stainless steel
>
>             Grade
>            C
>            Mn
>            Si
>            P
>            S
>            Cr
>            Mo
>            Ni
>            N
>
>             304
>            min.
>
>             max.
>            -
>
>             0.08
>            -
>
>             2.0
>            -
>
>             0.75
>            -
>
>             0.045
>            -
>
>             0.030
>            18.0
>
>             20.0
>            -
>            8.0
>
>             10.5
>            -
>
>             0.10
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Carpenter" <mattdcarpenter_at_dml_msn.com>
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 11:34 AM
>Subject: [DML] Stainless Steel
>
>
>Out of curiosity, can anyone advise which gauge the stainless steel is on 
>the DeLorean hood?  Also, does anyone know the composition (% chrome, % 
>nickel, etc.) of the stainless on the Delorean?
>Thanks,
>Matt Carpenter
>5586
>AZ-D
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 08:33:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pheasant Run Room available

All,
   
  I will not be able to attend the show this year.  I have a room reserved in the Golf Wing at Pheasant Run.  I would like to offer the room reservation to the first person who writes me back.
   
  I will only respond to the person who contacts me first.  Once taken, I will post a note so others will know (assuming more than 1 person wants it, of course)
   
  PLEASE e-mail me privately.
   
  Thanks
   
  Tom
   
   



		
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:02:03 -0400
From: "Ken - ODOC \(Ontario DeLorean Owners Club\)" <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>
Subject: Ottawa Ontario Owners

If you are a DeLorean owner in the Ottawa area, could you please contact me
off the list.

 

Ken [at) ODOC.ca

 

Thank You,

 

Ken Kapalowski


ODOC.ca (Ontario DeLorean Owners Club)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:33:27 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:Door latch replacement/upgrade

 
Hi David-
Actually, I have a Lockzilla, my solenoids never failed but I replaced them  
with Toby's actuators, and my doors work fine for the first time in the 6 plus 
 years I've owned it. If I lived a few hours closer, I'd have driven up and 
asked  for your help, but as it happens, I finally figured them out myself. 
First I did  the manuals/bulletin route, then just readjusted and readjusted 
until it worked  and I figured it out. I even removed a latch just to fiddle with 
it and get a  good look at it from all sides. Still, all the literature I've 
seen suggests  that they're easily thrown out of adjustment, and I don't want 
to disassemble my  doors again, if possible! One thing that's not adjustable or 
disassemblable  is the latch itself.  No way I can see to bypass the design 
features I'd  like to avoid. That's why I'd rather try to swap it out with a 
different latch  altogether that won't be so finicky.
 
 
Wayne A.  Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ

 
In a message dated 4/20/2006 10:52:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net writes:

If the  door is properly adjusted it is not easy to
lock the door when open. It can  be forced and that is one of the
failure modes. When it IS forced the  linkage inside gets bent and
throws all of the adjustments off. I doubt you  will be able to find
another latch that will work. You might have more luck  modifying the
latches you have. In the meantime I suggest you either do the  door
linkage adjustment procedure or have someone do it for you. When  the
doors are properly adjusted the passenger CANNOT lock the doors if  the
driver's door is still open. Maybe your best solution is to  just
disconnect the locking module. If you don't have an upgraded one  it
should be disconnected  anyway!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:27:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Pheasant Run Room

Hi All,
   
  Room has been spoken for.....
   
  Thanks
   
  Tom
  #05732



		
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