From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 8:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3212

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: For Sale: 1981 (82??) Turbo Delorean <10K miles 5 spd manual $19K OBO
From: Tito Lugtu <talugtu_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

3. Wont start cold
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

4. To Flush or Not to Flush?
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Wont start cold
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 10:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tito Lugtu <talugtu_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: For Sale: 1981 (82??) Turbo Delorean <10K miles 5 spd manual $19K OBO

no interior damage, burnt markings due to car cover been set to fire but it is flame returdant, black carbon stains are from the rubber smoking and melting, washes easily with any sink cleaner (comet) and 3m scour pads, the trick is it has to be done along the grain of the stainless steel, the mirrors not damage, more of cosmetics problem

blackaddertoo <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk> wrote:  hi

i took a look at these pics and there seems to be plenty more required.
such as mirror units, possble carpet, door seals, possible inner door panels.
and i'm not sure that the doors will clean only. they really need stripping down all trim, maybe a sand and regritt.
is it not worth claiming insurance, or having a full repair?
could be in excess of $5k when all included surely.

regards

Steve




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TALugtu" wrote:
>
> For Sale 1981 (82??) Turbo Charged (BAE Single Turbocharger)
DeLorean 
> $19K OBO. VIN 4546 <10K miles, gray interior, 5 speed manual 
> transmission, Alpine Navigational System with Alpne 6 Disk CD
Changer, 
> Alpine Alarm System with perimeter sensor and pager, tools,
stainless 
> engine upgrade, stainless brake lines (not installed), stainless
fuel 
> lines, Good Year Aquatread Tires etc. Excellent running condition. 
> Needed to clean burnt stains from doors, replace windshield and
two 
> side fixed windows, rubber moldings, pls visit 
> http://www.lugtu.org/my_delorean for pictures. Pls email me for 
> questions.
>








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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 13:59:28 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social

With only one week away from the DMA spring social, the extended weather
forecast is promising great weather for the event!  Good or Bad weather, we
already have 25 members officially signed up to attend the event, and the
list is growing daily  Raffle prizes are being accumulated now, and we
promise to have a great selection of items to win!  (Thanks to all of you
who have contributed thus far)
 
Everything is set and we are almost ready....but are you coming?  If you
have not made up your mind yet, you had better hurry!
You can sign up here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/social06.htm
 
As an extra incentive, we have extended the dinner pre-reservation discount
to 4/26!  You still have time to save some money and attend the event!!!
 
You don't want to be "That person" who looks at our website recap later on,
and says "Man...I shoulda went!  It looks like I missed a lot of fun.  :(  "
 
- Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 20:28:12 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Wont start cold

Hey guys, 
Today I tried starting the car and it wouldnt start cold. This was 
after leaving it sitting overnight in my garage where I store it 
everyday. IT sat overnight so it is completly cold. It always starts 
cold, somedays it just takes a few seconds of cranking, other days it 
doesnt. Today it just kept cranking and cranking. 
So here is what I checked. I checked the spray pattern of 4 out of the 
6 injectors that I could get too. They all sparyed the same, and it 
seemed to spray in the correct pattern. Secondly its getting gas 
because of injectors working and I can smell it. 
I tried the method, where you switch the cold start(blue) and warm up 
regulator(grey) connectors, and still no luck starting. 
Im stumped now, I have replaced so much and now this problem happened. 
Here is what I replaced. Thermotimeswitch, Fuel distributor, cold 
start valve, did the plug, rotor and cap, and new spark plugs. Plus 
all the orings when my water pump was done. 
So if you guys have any ideas what could be causing this im all ears. 







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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 20:35:57 -0000
From: "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: To Flush or Not to Flush?

Purchase my Delorean in August of 2005.  The coolant level is fine, 
engine cools fine, Checked coolant and I believe it was good to -20 F  
The problem is my car has only 9600 miles on it, was stored for the 
last 8 years and I'm not sure if the antifreeze has ever been changed. 
Should I mess with changing it?  Should I use any of the so called 
flushing detergents? Or should I just leave it alone?  Also, does 
anyone have step by step directions on flushing the cooling system on 
Deloreans?  Directions would help me the most.

11572
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2257846







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 14:38:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4 years.


--- Marv Hein <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> A final question:  I found an old DML post that
> suggests the rheostat 
> can be by-passed by connecting all three of the
> wires attached to it 
> together.  Before I actually attempt this, can
> someone confirm this is 
> a viable approach to dash lighting while I work on
> the rheostat or buy 
> a replacement?


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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 21:10:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

I see numerous responses to your concern. The one thing you should 
definitely be concerned with is the frequent cycling of the cooling 
fans. This could lead to an over heated fan circuit stopping the 
fans and causing engine over heating.

Unfortunately the fans are designed OEM to cycle precisely with the 
AC compressor. I say unfortunately because if the AC system does 
become low charged or develop another issue to cause rapid cycling 
of the compressor, the fans will rapid cycle too when you have the 
AC on. The cycle of the fans with the AC compressor is completely 
independent of the otterstat used for engine cooling although the 
fan circuits for both are integrated starting at the circuit breaker.

The fans are what I would call "utility" quality. They are designed 
to work in extreme conditions - to do this, their design is anything 
but efficient. To start each fan requires 20 amps + or - a few 
depending on the condition of the fans and the electrical system 
connections, grounds, etc. This compares to 11 to 14 amps to run 
each fan once started. As the saying goes - "you do the math". The 
constant starting of the fans is extremely hard on all components of 
the circuit and soon leads to a failure of the weakest part in the 
circuit - usually the OEM circuit breaker (a 35A standard duty 
circuit breaker with "pressed" connections) or the OEM blue module 
(notorious for poor quality inside) or the single relay (20/30 amp 
rated – that means 30 amps start 20 run). If you beef up one thing, 
another component will soon fail – maybe in flames. BTW the motor 
will be the last thing to go in my experience.

All of this has been the topic of discussion ever since the DeLorean 
was introduced. As new in Houston (where I started 1982), a daily 
driver soon experienced "fan fail" and eventually, virtually 
everyone did.

So, what to do? My suggestion is have the AC shop do a full service 
on the AC system including replacement of the orifice tube and 
accumulator. Alternatively, as a minimum, have them do an evacuation 
and refill with the proper amount of gas (say 2 to 2.25lb of 134 
gas – AZ 2 lb NJ 2.25 – just my approach). A proper functioning AC 
system will cause minimum cycling of the AC compressor and therefore 
the least amount of stress on the cooling fan circuit. I still use R-
12 (2.25 – 2.5 lbs of gas)

Next, get one of the vendors' fixes for the cooling fans. Zilla is 
by far the best vendor package offered in my opinion – I have no 
idea if you can still get one. Or, get Hervey's set up from SpecialT–
 the Dual 2X2. Or, install the DPNW modification (the least 
expensive but effective). I'm not a big fan of the wire jumper 
modification unless you replace the under-rated relay (Hervey may 
still have the higher rated ones – 30/40).

Last, be sure all connections for the fan circuit are checked and 
clean – especially the grounds attached to the frame on the front.

Another BTW - the rapid cycling is usually an indicator of low gas 
or a restricted system (probably at the orifice tube). Normal 
minimum cycling on a cool day is probably off and on every 5-10 
seconds - on a hot day cycling could range from 30 seconds to 
rarely. To get an AC system to function correctly takes the correct 
tools and a knowledgeable technician with the correct specs.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> While my car was in getting lowering springs and shocks done, I 
asked 
> the mechanic to check out the AC.  He said it seemed to work fine. 
it 
> blows cold air and is not leaking anywhere.  However, the constant 
> cycling of the cooling fans worries me.  The fans will stay on for 
only 
> two seconds, and off for about 5 seconds, on and off on and off.  
> Wouldn't this cause excessive wear on the fans to energize them 
every 5 
> seconds, and they only stay on for 2 seconds?  It doesn't seem 
right.  
> The cycle tiem seemed to be longer last year when I had it charged 
in 
> August.  I have the R134 conversion.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
>









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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 23:27:11 -0000
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Wont start cold

An internal combustion engine needs 3 (basic) things to run:

Fuel, air and spark.

Unless your air cleaner is totally choked up, you have air.
You've checked the fuel and appear to have enough.
Have you checked your spark?

Regarding spark, it could be any number of little things. I'll make 
a short list here for you to check:

1. Ensure that the small, low voltage wires are securely attached to 
the ignition coil.
2. Ensure that the high voltage (primary spark plug wire) is 
securely attached to the coil and that the other end is securely 
attached to the distributor.
3. Have a colleague crank the engine while you pull a plug wire off 
and ground it to (hold it close but do not touch) the engine block. 
Use a generic spark plug from an auto parts store rather than go to 
the hassle of removing a spark plug from your engine block. Do you 
have a spark? Is it weak and yellow or strong and blue/white?

Considering that you replaced the plugs/wires/cap&rotor, it's 
entirely possible that something wasn't secure and has vibrated 
loose.

If you have a good, hot spark then perhaps it's flooding instead of 
starving for fuel, but that's another post. Check your ignition 
first and then report back with the results.

Good luck,

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, 
> Today I tried starting the car and it wouldnt start cold. This was 
> after leaving it sitting overnight in my garage where I store it 
> everyday. IT sat overnight so it is completly cold. It always 
starts 
> cold, somedays it just takes a few seconds of cranking, other days 
it 
> doesnt. Today it just kept cranking and cranking. 
> So here is what I checked. I checked the spray pattern of 4 out of 
the 
> 6 injectors that I could get too. They all sparyed the same, and 
it 
> seemed to spray in the correct pattern. Secondly its getting gas 
> because of injectors working and I can smell it. 
> I tried the method, where you switch the cold start(blue) and warm 
up 
> regulator(grey) connectors, and still no luck starting. 
> Im stumped now, I have replaced so much and now this problem 
happened. 
> Here is what I replaced. Thermotimeswitch, Fuel distributor, cold 
> start valve, did the plug, rotor and cap, and new spark plugs. 
Plus 
> all the orings when my water pump was done. 
> So if you guys have any ideas what could be causing this im all 
ears.
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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