From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 9:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3213

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Wont start cold
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

2. Re: Wont start cold
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

3. Re: Wont start cold
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

5. Trim Pad Cover
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: To Flush or Not to Flush?
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Radio decoding!
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

9. Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

11. DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. DCS 2006 DEADLINE APPROACHES
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Wont start cold
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: NEW Windshields .
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Radio decoding!
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

18. Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>

20. Re: Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>

21. Door Locks
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

22. Re: Re: Wont start cold
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

23. Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 17:42:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Wont start cold



--- "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
wrote:

> An internal combustion engine needs 3 (basic) things to run:
> 
> Fuel, air and spark.

I don't mean to nitpick Rich as there was some helpful info in your post but that should be Fuel,COMPRESSION and spark is needed to run an internal combustion engine.

Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Australia

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 02:03:55 -0000
From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wont start cold

hi

does the car cough at all when cranking?

can you get someone to hold the fuel flap down a bit and crank?

Steve





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> An internal combustion engine needs 3 (basic) things to run:
> 
> Fuel, air and spark.
> 
> Unless your air cleaner is totally choked up, you have air.
> You've checked the fuel and appear to have enough.
> Have you checked your spark?
> 
> Regarding spark, it could be any number of little things. I'll 
make 
> a short list here for you to check:
> 
> 1. Ensure that the small, low voltage wires are securely attached 
to 
> the ignition coil.
> 2. Ensure that the high voltage (primary spark plug wire) is 
> securely attached to the coil and that the other end is securely 
> attached to the distributor.
> 3. Have a colleague crank the engine while you pull a plug wire 
off 
> and ground it to (hold it close but do not touch) the engine 
block. 
> Use a generic spark plug from an auto parts store rather than go 
to 
> the hassle of removing a spark plug from your engine block. Do you 
> have a spark? Is it weak and yellow or strong and blue/white?
> 
> Considering that you replaced the plugs/wires/cap&rotor, it's 
> entirely possible that something wasn't secure and has vibrated 
> loose.
> 
> If you have a good, hot spark then perhaps it's flooding instead 
of 
> starving for fuel, but that's another post. Check your ignition 
> first and then report back with the results.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, 
> > Today I tried starting the car and it wouldnt start cold. This 
was 
> > after leaving it sitting overnight in my garage where I store it 
> > everyday. IT sat overnight so it is completly cold. It always 
> starts 
> > cold, somedays it just takes a few seconds of cranking, other 
days 
> it 
> > doesnt. Today it just kept cranking and cranking. 
> > So here is what I checked. I checked the spray pattern of 4 out 
of 
> the 
> > 6 injectors that I could get too. They all sparyed the same, and 
> it 
> > seemed to spray in the correct pattern. Secondly its getting gas 
> > because of injectors working and I can smell it. 
> > I tried the method, where you switch the cold start(blue) and 
warm 
> up 
> > regulator(grey) connectors, and still no luck starting. 
> > Im stumped now, I have replaced so much and now this problem 
> happened. 
> > Here is what I replaced. Thermotimeswitch, Fuel distributor, 
cold 
> > start valve, did the plug, rotor and cap, and new spark plugs. 
> Plus 
> > all the orings when my water pump was done. 
> > So if you guys have any ideas what could be causing this im all 
> ears.
> >
>









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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 03:31:27 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wont start cold

Have you physically checked to see that fuel is spraying from the 
cold start injector? Replacing the thermo time switch will not 
automatically fix the problem; it could also be your starter 
solenoid.

Nathan
2277

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, 
> Today I tried starting the car and it wouldnt start cold. This was 
> after leaving it sitting overnight in my garage where I store it 
> everyday. IT sat overnight so it is completly cold. It always 
starts 
> cold, somedays it just takes a few seconds of cranking, other days 
it 
> doesnt. Today it just kept cranking and cranking. 
> So here is what I checked. I checked the spray pattern of 4 out of 
the 
> 6 injectors that I could get too. They all sparyed the same, and 
it 
> seemed to spray in the correct pattern. Secondly its getting gas 
> because of injectors working and I can smell it. 
> I tried the method, where you switch the cold start(blue) and warm 
up 
> regulator(grey) connectors, and still no luck starting. 
> Im stumped now, I have replaced so much and now this problem 
happened. 
> Here is what I replaced. Thermotimeswitch, Fuel distributor, cold 
> start valve, did the plug, rotor and cap, and new spark plugs. 
Plus 
> all the orings when my water pump was done. 
> So if you guys have any ideas what could be causing this im all 
ears.
>









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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 12:10:14 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

Harold,

There's a cooling fan wiring modification that you co-authored in the tech 
section at the DMC News web site. You didn't mention it in your post below 
but it's simple to do and allows the fans to run continuously while in the 
AC mode rather than cycle continuously with the compressor. I've been 
running my car with this mod for many miles with no problems. ( I am using 
Bosch fan motors in place of the originals ) The fact you didn't mention it 
here has me wondering if you've had a change of mind regarding this. The 
amperage draw each time the fan motors start makes doing this modification 
appear to be a must do mod and as I mentioned , after several thousand miles 
I have yet to notice any ill effects.

Bruce Benson




The fans are what I would call "utility" quality. They are designed
to work in extreme conditions - to do this, their design is anything
but efficient. To start each fan requires 20 amps + or - a few
depending on the condition of the fans and the electrical system
connections, grounds, etc. This compares to 11 to 14 amps to run
each fan once started. As the saying goes - "you do the math". The
constant starting of the fans is extremely hard on all components of
the circuit and soon leads to a failure of the weakest part in the
circuit - usually the OEM circuit breaker (a 35A standard duty
circuit breaker with "pressed" connections) or the OEM blue module
(notorious for poor quality inside) or the single relay (20/30 amp
rated - that means 30 amps start 20 run). If you beef up one thing,
another component will soon fail - maybe in flames. BTW the motor
will be the last thing to go in my experience.

Harold McElraft - 3354








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 17:21:12 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Trim Pad Cover

There is a trim pad behind the door.  I have seen a hard plastic cover 
that goes over the Edge of the Trim Pad so it doesn't get worn when 
you get in and out of the car.  It is like a small cap.
Anybody know where to get these?  I would like to get two grey ones.
Thanks
Dale Funk
#4984
#941 








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 03:28:35 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: To Flush or Not to Flush?

Go to www.dmcnews.com and look at the technical files. There is one 
for flushing the cooling system however if the car sat for 8 years 
without being started then flushing the radiator will be the least of 
your problems.  

Nathan
2277

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Purchase my Delorean in August of 2005.  The coolant level is fine, 
> engine cools fine, Checked coolant and I believe it was good to -20 
F  
> 









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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 04:07:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social

Just to add to the list of things going on for this event:

We will have a Guest Speaker at dinner Saturday evening. He is a
former mechanic from one of the Delorean dealerships and he has a lot
of stories to tell from the early days.

There is going to be an election for new Officers. We need as many
members as possible to vote and maybe some will try their hand at
running the club? It is open to ALL paid members. If you haven't paid
yet you can pay your yearly dues in person.
 
We are going to have merchandise for sale, some of it at a discount.
Any orders from P. J. Grady will be brought to the event for your
pick-up at a discount and no shipping or tax so call ahead on anything
you want so you can pick it up at the event next weekend. It must also
be paid for in advance, we are only bringing the stuff for Rob, not
collecting money.

This event is rain-or-shine so don't worry about getting your
Deloreans wet. They clean up easily.

Don't forget your Family Band radios. We will be on channel 12.

The door adjustments and inspections are on a first-come first-served
basis so the ones that get there early will be done first. We try to
do everyone time permitting.

One of our newest members is bringing his Stage II Delorean that he
just purchesed. If you haven't seen one this weekend will be your
chance to see one up close.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Delorean Mid-Altantic Club
<clubevents_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> With only one week away from the DMA spring social, the extended weather
> forecast is promising great weather for the event!  Good or Bad
weather, we
> already have 25 members officially signed up to attend the event,
and the
> list is growing daily  Raffle prizes are being accumulated now, and we
> promise to have a great selection of items to win!  (Thanks to all
of you
> who have contributed thus far)
>  
> Everything is set and we are almost ready....but are you coming?  If you
> have not made up your mind yet, you had better hurry!
> You can sign up here:
> http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/social06.htm
>  
> As an extra incentive, we have extended the dinner pre-reservation
discount
> to 4/26!  You still have time to save some money and attend the event!!!
>  
> You don't want to be "That person" who looks at our website recap
later on,
> and says "Man...I shoulda went!  It looks like I missed a lot of
fun.  :(  "
>  
> - Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:57:37 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Radio decoding!

Hey guys
  I have to replace my broken Craig, so I have an old Philips casette player from my brothers old Volvo 440. I do not have the code for it, just wondering if any of you computer boffins can get the code with the serial number? An electronic shop wanted 35! 
  I can play my ipod using the casette player. I find that the FM transmitters are crap.
   
  Thanks!
  Thomas

		
---------------------------------
To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:55:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

You can, as Mark points out, just bypass the rehostat and connect all
3 wires together. You lose the ability to dim the dash lights. The
dimmer doesn't work all that great anyway. When you dim the lights,
just when you get to about the spot you like it, the lights go out.
When I first got my car I thought the dimmer was bad. I bought a new
one (not cheap) and when I put it in I was very disappointed that it
did the exact same thing! One day I may rewind the element in it or
try a different one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4 years.
> 
> 
> --- Marv Hein <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > 
> > A final question:  I found an old DML post that
> > suggests the rheostat 
> > c









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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 10:16:07 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud

Does anyone know the torque spec for the tie rod end stud?  I can't find in
my manual.  That would be the stud going through the steering knuckle.

Thanks,


Nick
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/322 - Release Date: 4/22/2006






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:53:54 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed

Hey Group,
 
Well today was a pretty good day for me, all things considered.  Jim  Reeve 
came 250 miles to help me reinstall my engine and transmission, make sure  
everything was adjusted properly, and to install DMCH's performance  exhaust.  At 
the urging of another DMLer, I swapped the Flowmaster muffler  for a similar 
Magnaflow muffler, which alleviates the concerns many have  expressed with a 
raspy sound and burbling on decel.  I had the Magnaflow  muffler Jet-Hot coated 
just like the rest of the system and with some minor  modifications to the 
hangers, everything went together very easily (but quite  tight!!).  
 
Here are my thoughts with this exhaust system.  It is built well and  looks 
really good with the Jet Hot coating.  It fits really tight but  that's OK 
because it does go together easily once you figure it out.  I  feel an increase in 
torque in 1st and 2nd gear accompanied by a MUCH more freely  revving engine. 
 There are a few burbles and hiccups on deceleration but  they are very 
slight and are of no concern.  The exhaust sounds deeper with  a throatiness that 
must be heard to be believed. No raspy or rice-burner  sounds.  I actually WANT 
to rev it up and hear it!  In fact I don't  think I need a stereo anymore 
because I'd rather hear the exhaust!!   The downside is that the deep roar of it 
is a little strong at some low RPM's  and could get fatiguing, but I think 
it'll be fine for what I use the car  for.  I also noticed that the pass side of 
the exhaust system hangs  slightly lower than the driver side.  That is not an 
installation mistake,  it is determined by the tubing and the way it all fits 
together. I am planning  on bringing the car to an exhaust shop to see if 
they have any ideas for  correcting this.  It's very slight and is only an 
annoyance for an anal guy  like me.  Another problem with this system is that DMCH 
really needs to get  on the ball and provide some good decent instructions for 
the system as well as  tips and tricks for a successful install.  Some issues 
I had include  brackets being drilled incorrectly, a total lack of 
documentation that James  Espy graciously sent to me via mail (but it was only Jet-Hot 
documentation and  nothing pertaining to the install), missing gaskets for the 
cat-to-header  connection (which I got at autozone, and I have talked to other 
owners who say  that DMCH does not provide these - emails went unanswered), I 
also had to  lengthen the wire for the Lambda probe (no documentation to warn 
about this), as  well as the most curious instance of one of the included 
manifold studs  being too long so that it interferes with one of the header 
pipes!! I had to put  it in backwards so the header would clear it.  Would have been 
nice to know  that ahead of time.  Also the gaskets that came for the headers 
were  terrible and I had to get sandwiched plate gaskets from Volvo.  BUT I 
am  being kind of unfair because DMCH did modify one of the headers for me at 
no  charge to accommodate a quirk with my engine caused by a dreaded PO.   That 
made up for all the little annoyances.  Overall I am glad I made  this move!  
It was worth the cost (almost $1800 after 2nd muffler and  little bits).  
 
The only thing I have a problem with is my front main seal.  We  started the 
car last night and it didn't leak.  In the morning there were  no signs of 
leakage.  Then once we were done with the car we took it for a  cruise and at our 
destination we saw a few drips of oil coming from the front  seal.  Turns out 
that it doesn't leak while running or sitting, but after  you shut the engine 
off after a drive it leaks about 10 drips in a row and then  stops.  I just 
replaced the seal with Grady's double-lip seal and I sleeved  the pulley too.  
Tonight when the engine cools down I am going to change  the oil because what 
is coming from the pulley looks really watery and has a  reddish tint to it 
(which is probably the gasket sealer spray I used when  replacing the oil pan 
gasket).  I wonder if the gasket spray, which  oversprayed a little, has diluted 
into the oil and is acting as a transfer agent  through the seal?  Well 
that's why I am changing the oil (with Mobil Delvac  Super 1300) so I can eliminate 
contamination.  
 
Any other ideas on this?
 
Many thanks go out to Jim Reeve (whom I now owe a full day of help with his  
car!!), Jason Czarnecki, and Dave Swingle (for tons of advice and good  
tips!).  Can't wait for Pheasant Run!
 
Andy Lien
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 14:36:40 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS 2006 DEADLINE APPROACHES

Well the May 1st Deadline approaches and as history will have it about half  
of you will register after the deadline.
 
We are filling up the Hampton so if you need a room I suggest you call and  
make your reservation.
 
After May 1st the Free T-shirt offer and the Free pin to everyone  registered 
changes.
 
The T-shirt will be $10 and one pin will be offered per Order NOT  person.
 
This saves you about $13 if you take advantage of it.
 
Registrations have been real weird.  We either have tons of orders or  none.
 
At any rate come and enjoy the fun and history of the DeLorean.   I have one 
other guest that will be coming and I will be announcing that in  about 2 
weeks as soon as  I can confirm transprotation.
 
The BTTF Documentary is going to be a big hit as will the following
 
Engine Rebuild (IF interested contact Evil Dan or me) 
Saturday outside under tent.
 
Car Regraining by 3M corporation thanks to Randal Brown (TBD)
This should run Saturday outside under tent and it will be done on the  
Raffle car so whomever wins the raffle car will have a freshly regrained  car.
 
Dunking Booth ( if you want to volunteer e-mail me or Marc Levy) 
Saturday outside (we look for 30 minutes for those that volunteer to take  
the plunge
I guess we will see how good the arms of the DeLorean owners are.  Can  you 
hit the target????  
 
Vin Lineup.
We don't have as many Vin plates ordered as I thought.  Basically just  a 
little over half the registered cars have ordered them.   You do not  have to be 
at the show to get them so if you have a car and want a souvenir that  is fine 
as well.
Gary Gore is heading that up.
 
Volunteers to work the events is coordinated by Julie Swingle so if you  want 
to volunteer contact me or Julie (Dave) 
 
thanks 
 
Ken 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 01:16:19 -0000
From: "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Wont start cold

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_...> wrote:
> I don't mean to nitpick Rich as there was some helpful
> info in your post but that should be Fuel,COMPRESSION
> and spark is needed to run an internal combustion
> engine.
> 
> Cheers,
> Andrew 
> VIN 2883
> Australia

<sigh>. 

As I stated, 3 BASIC things. One could also argue that without 
proper timing, combustion will not occur, or a hundred other little 
things depending on how you prioritize them.

Being as the gentleman has driven his car, and this problem occurs 
completely at random and the engine runs perfectly fine when it does 
run, I highly doubt that he is experiencing a random and 
catastrophic loss and then subsequent recovery of compression. That 
is why I didn't suggest it as an initial troubleshooting step.

I guess everyone's "top 3" list of critical events for a self-
sustaining reaction will be different. I'm just offering from my 
personal experience.

Rich 
#5335







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 01:10:54 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: NEW Windshields .

Luckily, the police around me aren't even smart enough to know what 
delamination is.

-Joe



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> To all windshield crack Delorean Owners, 
> The reaction of crezy glue to glass is very bad it will eat the 
> glass away enough to make it very weak & cracks from the heat or 
> wind pressure from driving it does it to most glass. If enterested 
I 
> have a contact for New WIndShields for Deloreans, NOT OEM WITH 
LAMI  
> DEFECTS but very costly in stalled around $1000.00 which won't 
pass 
> inspection in any state when you get a ticket & have to get it 
> inspected before you can get it dropped in court so you won't pay 
> the 250.00 ticket for defective equiptment. Some Dealer told me to 
> paint my lami seperation!!! SHAME SHAME SHAME Some dealers. They 
> also told me they Didn't have any better ones all 800 stock 
> windshields were the same or worse But, I remember a contours car 
> that got one NO Probelm, 
> Email if you want a W/S Maybe I can Get us a group rate.
> Lawrence
> 
> 
> >
> > On 3/29/06, Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_> wrote:
> > > Anybody know why our windshields crack if the mirror's
> > > glued directly to them when so many other windshields
> > > are fine?  Thinner/different glass?  The very flat
> > > design?  (Do similar shaped ones like Lotus require
> > > the tape-type installs?)
> > 
> > I'd like to know too, Steve.
> > 
> > I'm still not sure whether the cracked windshields are due to 
> gluing
> > to the glass, or to the black patch. Anyone know that?
> > 
> > -Ryan
> >
>









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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 02:06:40 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Radio decoding!

Not what you're asking for, but my two cents:  the cassette player is
a good solution for an ipod.  On the other hand, I don't know why
anyone would want to keep a Craig, or anything like it, around unless
it's for concours reasons.

A friend of mine brags about his Alpine with the dedicated Ipod
connection.  You can operate the Ipod through the stereo controls
instead of messing with the Ipod.

http://www.alpinefullspeed.com/go.html

"You only go this way once."

--Sam




-








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 01:53:14 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

I still think that the modification I designed is a very good one. I 
didn't mention it because the vendor kits I mentioned do a good job 
of separation and strengthening of the system and I'm sure most 
folks would just hook up something out of a box that works. The DPNW 
kit, although I haven't seen it, appears to be the essence of the 
modification I mentioned in the article you refer to.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <delornut_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Harold,
> 
> There's a cooling fan wiring modification that you co-authored in 
the tech 
> section at the DMC News web site. You didn't mention it in your 
post below 
> but it's simple to do and allows the fans to run continuously 
while in the 
> AC mode rather than cycle continuously with the compressor. I've 
been 
> running my car with this mod for many miles with no problems. ( I 
am using 
> Bosch fan motors in place of the originals ) The fact you didn't 
mention it 
> here has me wondering if you've had a change of mind regarding 
this. The 
> amperage draw each time the fan motors start makes doing this 
modification 
> appear to be a must do mod and as I mentioned , after several 
thousand miles 
> I have yet to notice any ill effects.
> 
> Bruce Benson








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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 02:20:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud

Try looking in the Workshop Manual on A:03:03 3rd item from the
bottom. Again on H:02:01 and also Service Bulletin ST-09-7/81. You
see, if you looked you would have found it in 3 different places. In
reality even if you torqued it to spec you may have to "overtorque" it
so you can line up the cotter pin. It is VERY important that the hole
in the steering knuckle and the stud of the tie rod end be clean and
free of any scratches or nicks. It is a taper fit together and will
not lock properly if dirt or scratches are between the parts. Before
installing remove the dust boot and put plenty of grease in the joint.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the torque spec for the tie rod end stud?  I can't
find in
> my manual.  That would be the stud going through the steering knuckle.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Nick
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.5/322 - Release Date: 4/22/2006
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 20:19:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

David,

You may be in for a surprise,  there is no winding in
the rheostat, that's what Marv was trying to say. 
Once you get into the rheostat, which is really a
variable potentiometer, you will find no wires. 
Everything is fixed to a plate, much like the fuel
sender, but on a much smaller scale.  I've had like 5
apart and had no "zero" success at making them work. 
That's why, and I speculate, DMCH will give you a $50
core value, you can't fix the inards, but the case is
valuable!!!

Mike



--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:

> You can, as Mark points out, just bypass the
> rehostat and connect all
> 3 wires together. You lose the ability to dim the
> dash lights. The
> dimmer doesn't work all that great anyway. When you
> dim the lights,
> just when you get to about the spot you like it, the
> lights go out.
> When I first got my car I thought the dimmer was
> bad. I bought a new
> one (not cheap) and when I put it in I was very
> disappointed that it
> did the exact same thing! One day I may rewind the
> element in it or
> try a different one.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy
> <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4
> years.
> > 
> > 
> > --- Marv Hein <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > A final question:  I found an old DML post that
> > > suggests the rheostat 
> > > c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 22:42:34 -0400
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

On the dimmers I have disassembled and repaired, it is not a
conventional "rheostat", and would be impossible to rewind, as there
is no "winding"!

it actually uses narrow width copper traces on a PCB (printed circuit
board) rather than a wire winding to create the variable resistance
for the voltage reduction to the dash lights

on the few that I have repaired, have had to glue the broken shaft
parts, and clean the dirt and grim off of the wiper contacts and PCB
contacts - all works fine now, no problems

perhaps there are two versions, one with a conventional "winding" and
the PCB style I have encountered?

Cliff


On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:55:40 -0000, David Teitelbaum wrote:

>You can, as Mark points out, just bypass the rehostat and connect all
>3 wires together. You lose the ability to dim the dash lights. The
>dimmer doesn't work all that great anyway. When you dim the lights,
>just when you get to about the spot you like it, the lights go out.
>When I first got my car I thought the dimmer was bad. I bought a new
>one (not cheap) and when I put it in I was very disappointed that it
>did the exact same thing! One day I may rewind the element in it or
>try a different one.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4 years.
>> 
>> 
>> --- Marv Hein <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
>> > 
>> > A final question:  I found an old DML post that
>> > suggests the rheostat 
>> > c
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 23:05:20 -0400
From: Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end stud

according to ST-09-7/81, Tie rod to steering knuckle torque is 26
ft-lbs

Cliff

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 10:16:07 -0500, you wrote:

>Does anyone know the torque spec for the tie rod end stud?  I can't find in
>my manual.  That would be the stud going through the steering knuckle.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Nick





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 05:37:09 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Door Locks

Got a new problem with my door locks.  Drivers side will lock both
doors, but will only unlock the driver's side.  It doesn't engage the
solenoid, it only moves the actual mechanical part when using either
the inside lock or the key.  I haven't taken the door apart yet, but
could there be a wire loose?  Will the solenoid work one way and not
the other?   
I think everything in there is still original.  Thanks in advance for
your help,

John Poland
05935







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 21:51:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: Wont start cold

I have to double check the cold start injector, but the starter solenoid was replaced. I will also have to get someone to press down the air intake as well. But today it started fine, I dont know why and what caused it to not start yesterday. But im going to try and find out why. I believe, by the responses i have recieved, that it is an electrical problem. I am going to attempt to go over the electrical system, and possible replace the battery. 
Are there any important grounds/ wires to check. I know the car fairly well, but electrical stuff is just not my cup of tea. Thanks and im sure this wont be the last time it will happen.

Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:  Have you physically checked to see that fuel is spraying from the 
cold start injector? Replacing the thermo time switch will not 
automatically fix the problem; it could also be your starter 
solenoid.

Nathan
2277

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stefandmc" wrote:
>
> Hey guys, 
> Today I tried starting the car and it wouldnt start cold. This was 
> after leaving it sitting overnight in my garage where I store it 
> everyday. IT sat overnight so it is completly cold. It always 
starts 
> cold, somedays it just takes a few seconds of cranking, other days 
it 
> doesnt. Today it just kept cranking and cranking. 
> So here is what I checked. I checked the spray pattern of 4 out of 
the 
> 6 injectors that I could get too. They all sparyed the same, and 
it 
> seemed to spray in the correct pattern. Secondly its getting gas 
> because of injectors working and I can smell it. 
> I tried the method, where you switch the cold start(blue) and warm 
up 
> regulator(grey) connectors, and still no luck starting. 
> Im stumped now, I have replaced so much and now this problem 
happened. 
> Here is what I replaced. Thermotimeswitch, Fuel distributor, cold 
> start valve, did the plug, rotor and cap, and new spark plugs. 
Plus 
> all the orings when my water pump was done. 
> So if you guys have any ideas what could be causing this im all 
ears.
>









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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 02:40:05 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

I had a cracked rear axle boot so I purchased complete RH & LH kits 
from DMCH . The kits come with plenty of grease; I still have some 
of the old grease deep in my skin around the finger nails since last 
Thursday.  I love ordering form DMCH, the packaging is always great, 
and I love the Custom printed DMC tape they use for the boxes. One 
problem I had with the kit was the small metal zip collar (hose 
clamp) was like 1-2 inches too long and could not be used, not sure 
what's up with that, so I used a zip tie temporarily for the small 
side, the larger side clamp was just right.

The reason for this post is to potentially save a life. I had asked 
some DeLorean mechanic's if the axle job can be done with the wheels 
up in the air or on a ramp. I was told either way  that's it. 
Inside flat garage, I backed my car onto a ramp 12"that I bought at 
Wal-Mart (they are gray injection molded ramps and actually work 
real well)... I jacked up the front and sat the wheels down on 4" X 
4" wood approximately 24" long.
Guess what I didn't do. Chock the wheels and set the emergency 
brake. 
I selected the axle side that had the cracked boot to start in case 
I ran out of time to do the other side. Good thing, cause I am not 
going back under for a while until I get clean underwear... Here is 
why. I unbolted all bolts accept for one on each side. I placed a 
jack stand under the axle so it wouldn't just drop. Real pro! As 
soon as the axle dropped the car rolled backwards. I reached up and 
grabbed the transmission or something and stopped the car. I had 
placed jack stands (not fully extended or touching off(dumb ass)) in 
key locations under the car so in the event it did roll off my life 
would have been spared (though the jacks stands ended up in areas 
that would have caused other damage to the underside of the car had 
it completely rolled off). Luckily the wood I placed on the front 
allowed the extra room needed for roll. 
I got myself out of there, steadied everything and finished the job. 
Close call; I am writing about this because it could happen to 
someone else that may not be so lucky unless you have a pan head and 
flat stomach.

I purchased a master cylinder form DMCH, my brake pedal went to the 
floor before any braking started. Glad to be out from under the car! 
Removing the master cylinder access panel was harder than the axle 
job.  Every Philips head screw snapped at the head, if it didn't 
snap it just spun. I didn't have the tools or time to complete this 
task without butchering the panel so I had Munk's garage 
(www.munks.com) take care of the repair. George over at Munk's 
called me a couple times to assure me that everything was going 
well. Apparently the cotter pin was corroded and so they placed a 
small nut and bolt in its place to hold the reservoir. If you order 
a master cylinder, make sure you get the cotter pin that holds the 
reservoir in place, I could not reuse mine. I am picking my car up 
tomorrow; they said the brakes work beautiful. I ordered all new 
screws and jack nuts form DMCH to put the cover back together good 
as new. 

Byron











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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