From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 8:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3214

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Dash Light Rheostat
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Door Locks
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

3. DeLorean Windshields
From: "hanbow1996" <mm_at_dml_automotiveglass.com>

4. Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

5. Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>

6. Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

7. Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

8. Re: Trim Pad Cover
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>

9. Re: Dash Light Rheostat
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

11. Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

13. Gluing parts
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

14. Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

15. Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Re: DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>

17. RE: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

18. Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

19. Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

20. RE: Door Locks
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

21. Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Door Locks
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

23. Re: Headlight switch update - how about the new dashboards?
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

24. Re: DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: Door Locks
From: "Toby Peterson" <Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 06:10:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Dash Light Rheostat


A few years back, I found a possible replacement for
the dimmer control from TRW in Europe (they now own
all of the Lucas stuff).

I did no proceed with it, because I was able to repair
my dimmer (in 6068) by using procedures all ready
discussed here.

When the dimmer in 1860 broke, I decided it was not
worth messing with because I never use it anyway.  I
just used a jumper to tie the 3 wires together.

I put 6068's center console back together last night,
and the repaired dimmer control still works....  Now
that I said that, it will be sure to explode on me!

If anyone is interested, I can try and dig out my
notes on the replacement part.  Maybe someone can take
over where I left off, if there is any market for it.


--- mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> David,
> 
> You may be in for a surprise,  there is no winding
> in
> the rheostat, that's what Marv was trying to say. 
> Once you get into the rheostat, which is really a
> variable potentiometer, you will find no wires. 
> Everything is fixed to a plate, much like the fuel
> sender, but on a much smaller scale.  I've had like
> 5
> apart and had no "zero" success at making them work.
> 
> That's why, and I speculate, DMCH will give you a
> $50
> core value, you can't fix the inards, but the case
> is
> valuable!!!
> 
> Mike


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 10:00:32 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Door Locks

When I installed the Wings-a-Loft system I had a simialr problem with door 
locking. The linkage appeared to be adjusted right but the rear latch on the 
drivers door seemed to be significantly stiffer then the rest and required a 
really good pull to unlatch. After spending a lot of time playing with the 
latches and linkage, even to the point that I rewound the driver's side 
solenoid,  I decided to go into the door lock module and replace the relays. 
Everything worked fine after that. I didn't do a "scientific investigation" 
but off hand I'm guessing the solenoid wasn't getting a strong enough pulse 
to activate the stiff latch in the unlock mode. In any event as soon as Toby 
at DPNW posted something regarding his digital module last winter I bought 
one and everything works great. Note that this won't cure mis-adjusted 
linkages but something to consider if all else is ok

Bruce Benson

> Got a new problem with my door locks.  Drivers side will lock both
> doors, but will only unlock the driver's side.  It doesn't engage the
> solenoid, it only moves the actual mechanical part when using either
> the inside lock or the key.  I haven't taken the door apart yet, but
> could there be a wire loose?  Will the solenoid work one way and not
> the other?
> I think everything in there is still original.  Thanks in advance for
> your help,
>
> John Poland
> 05935





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:19:39 -0000
From: "hanbow1996" <mm_at_dml_automotiveglass.com>
Subject: DeLorean Windshields

Hi there!
 
We have produced top quality windshields for the DeLorean at excellent
prices.  Unfortunately, owing to the geographical distance between the
U.K & U.S and in order to keep our prices the cheapest available, we
really need an U.S based agent to act on our behalf.
 
If any members are interested in becoming our representative, perhaps
they would be kind enough to get in touch.
 
Best regards,
 
Martin McCreedy
www.automotiveglass.com 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:16:32 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Question about Air Conditioning cycling

Thanks for the replies to my cycling concern.

I have the Fan Fail Fix 2x2, and upgraded breakers, so I should be 
in good shape there.  I should probably wait for hotter weather 
before I complain about cycling, becuase the outside temp was only 
in the mid to high 60's when I encountered the fast cycling.  I 
suppose I should wait for an 80 degree day and see what the cycle 
time is then.

Paul


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I see numerous responses to your concern. The one thing you should 
> definitely be concerned with is the frequent cycling of the 
cooling 
> fans. This could lead to an over heated fan circuit stopping the 
> fans and causing engine over heating.
> 
> Unfortunately the fans are designed OEM to cycle precisely with 
the 
> AC compressor. I say unfortunately because if the AC system does 
> become low charged or develop another issue to cause rapid cycling 
> of the compressor, the fans will rapid cycle too when you have the 
> AC on. The cycle of the fans with the AC compressor is completely 
> independent of the otterstat used for engine cooling although the 
> fan circuits for both are integrated starting at the circuit 
breaker.
> 
> The fans are what I would call "utility" quality. They are 
designed 
> to work in extreme conditions - to do this, their design is 
anything 
> but efficient. To start each fan requires 20 amps + or - a few 
> depending on the condition of the fans and the electrical system 
> connections, grounds, etc. This compares to 11 to 14 amps to run 
> each fan once started. As the saying goes - "you do the math". The 
> constant starting of the fans is extremely hard on all components 
of 
> the circuit and soon leads to a failure of the weakest part in the 
> circuit - usually the OEM circuit breaker (a 35A standard duty 
> circuit breaker with "pressed" connections) or the OEM blue module 
> (notorious for poor quality inside) or the single relay (20/30 amp 
> rated – that means 30 amps start 20 run). If you beef up one 
thing, 
> another component will soon fail – maybe in flames. BTW the motor 
> will be the last thing to go in my experience.
> 
> All of this has been the topic of discussion ever since the 
DeLorean 
> was introduced. As new in Houston (where I started 1982), a daily 
> driver soon experienced "fan fail" and eventually, virtually 
> everyone did.
> 
> So, what to do? My suggestion is have the AC shop do a full 
service 
> on the AC system including replacement of the orifice tube and 
> accumulator. Alternatively, as a minimum, have them do an 
evacuation 
> and refill with the proper amount of gas (say 2 to 2.25lb of 134 
> gas – AZ 2 lb NJ 2.25 – just my approach). A proper functioning AC 
> system will cause minimum cycling of the AC compressor and 
therefore 
> the least amount of stress on the cooling fan circuit. I still use 
R-
> 12 (2.25 – 2.5 lbs of gas)
> 
> Next, get one of the vendors' fixes for the cooling fans. Zilla is 
> by far the best vendor package offered in my opinion – I have no 
> idea if you can still get one. Or, get Hervey's set up from 
SpecialT–
>  the Dual 2X2. Or, install the DPNW modification (the least 
> expensive but effective). I'm not a big fan of the wire jumper 
> modification unless you replace the under-rated relay (Hervey may 
> still have the higher rated ones – 30/40).
> 
> Last, be sure all connections for the fan circuit are checked and 
> clean – especially the grounds attached to the frame on the front.
> 
> Another BTW - the rapid cycling is usually an indicator of low gas 
> or a restricted system (probably at the orifice tube). Normal 
> minimum cycling on a cool day is probably off and on every 5-10 
> seconds - on a hot day cycling could range from 30 seconds to 
> rarely. To get an AC system to function correctly takes the 
correct 
> tools and a knowledgeable technician with the correct specs.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > While my car was in getting lowering springs and shocks done, I 
> asked 
> > the mechanic to check out the AC.  He said it seemed to work 
fine. 
> it 
> > blows cold air and is not leaking anywhere.  However, the 
constant 
> > cycling of the cooling fans worries me.  The fans will stay on 
for 
> only 
> > two seconds, and off for about 5 seconds, on and off on and 
off.  
> > Wouldn't this cause excessive wear on the fans to energize them 
> every 5 
> > seconds, and they only stay on for 2 seconds?  It doesn't seem 
> right.  
> > The cycle tiem seemed to be longer last year when I had it 
charged 
> in 
> > August.  I have the R134 conversion.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul
> >
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 11:23:44 -0400
From: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

When I bought my car, the original rheo was toast and I bit the bullet 
to buy a "new-rebuilt" one, despite the high cost.  While it was nice to 
have the dimming control back, I was less than impressed with it's 
action/taper, as noted by others here.  Can these not be replaced with a 
standard linear potentiometer?  Why does it need to be a rheostat?
- ed

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V


mike clemens wrote:
> David,
>
> You may be in for a surprise,  there is no winding in
> the rheostat, that's what Marv was trying to say. 
> Once you get into the rheostat, which is really a
> variable potentiometer, you will find no wires. 
> Everything is fixed to a plate, much like the fuel
> sender, but on a much smaller scale.  I've had like 5
> apart and had no "zero" success at making them work. 
> That's why, and I speculate, DMCH will give you a $50
> core value, you can't fix the inards, but the case is
> valuable!!!
>
> Mike
>   




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:34:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

Just another reason why I don't like ramps. They can be unsteady and
the ramp can also fall over sideways, the cheap ones can bend and
collapse, it is not easy to get centered and you can potentially drive
right over the front. They must be used only on a hard, flat surface
like a concrete garage floor because they can sink into an ashphalt
driveway. You can't do any suspension work or take the tires off. On a
Delorean clearance is a problem just geting up on them especially if
the car is lowered. I don't know of ANY mechanics that would recomend
using them. If you don't have access to a lift then get a good floor
jack and 4 jackstands. It won't cost much more than the ramps and it
is a WHOLE lot safer. This is a hobby to most of us, not something we
would want to risk getting hurt over! 
 As for the pins that hold the brake resovoir on, the bolt and nut is
fine or you can make a pin. It is just like a nail with a hole in it
for the cotter pin. If the shop took it's time they probably could
have worked the old pin out and saved it. The brake fluid is supposed
to be changed every 2 years. Expect the 4 calipers to start leaking
soon. Check the clutch cylinders. If the fluid is dark change it also. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I had a cracked rear axle boot so I purchased complete RH & LH kits 
> from DMCH . The kits come with plenty of grease; I still have some 
> of the old grease deep in my skin around the finger nails since last 
> Thursday.  I love ordering form DMCH, the packaging is always great, 
> and I love the Custom printed DMC tape they use for the boxes. One 
> problem I had with the kit was the small metal zip collar (hose 
> clamp) was like 1-2 inches too long and could not be used, not sure 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:39:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 
I had not taken the dimmer apart yet so I only assumed it was wound
like other dimmers I am familiar with. I guess I will eventually look
for a replacement. I will be seeing you this weekend Mark, maybe you
can bring your info and I can follow it up. This can't be all that
hard to find, it is a pretty standard item on most cars.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



> A few years back, I found a possible replacement for
> the dimmer control from TRW in Europe (they now own
> all of the Lucas stuff).
> 
> I did no proceed with it, because I was able to repair
> my dimmer (in 6068) by using procedures all ready
> discussed here.
> 
> When the dimmer in 1860 broke, I decided it was not
> worth messing with because I never use it anyway.  I
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 12:19:20 -0400
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
Subject: Re: Trim Pad Cover

Dale

PJ Grady has them.... I got my second set from him several weeks  
ago.  My first set was from DeLorean One ten years ago, which has  
started to crack.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic   9D NY

On Apr 23, 2006, at 1:21 PM, funkstuf wrote:

> There is a trim pad behind the door.  I have seen a hard plastic cover
> that goes over the Edge of the Trim Pad so it doesn't get worn when
> you get in and out of the car.  It is like a small cap.
> Anybody know where to get these?  I would like to get two grey ones.
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> #4984
> #941
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 16:19:10 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dash Light Rheostat

Thanks to all who responded.  I'll tie those wires together!

Cliff, you are correct in that it's not a rheostat with windings.  I 
just didn't know what else to call it.  "Dimmer" probably would have 
been more generic.

My interest in repairing this part would just be to have it "right," 
if not for me, then for some potential future owner.  For me, this 
location does look prime for mounting some other, to-be-defined, 
more useful control in place of the dimmer! 

Since you've actually managed to get some of these working, I'd like 
more info from you on the earlier questions in my original post if 
you wouldn't mind emailing me off-list.  Specifically, I would like 
elaboration on your phrase "glue the broken shaft parts."  My guess 
is, if the little disc is in the proper spot and not flopping 
around, the little copper wipers will work properly again.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On the dimmers I have disassembled and repaired, it is not a
> conventional "rheostat", and would be impossible to rewind, as 
there
> is no "winding"!
> 
> it actually uses narrow width copper traces on a PCB (printed 
circuit
> board) rather than a wire winding to create the variable resistance
> for the voltage reduction to the dash lights
> 
> on the few that I have repaired, have had to glue the broken shaft
> parts, and clean the dirt and grim off of the wiper contacts and 
PCB
> contacts - all works fine now, no problems
> 
> perhaps there are two versions, one with a conventional "winding" 
and
> the PCB style I have encountered?
> 
> Cliff
> 
> 
> On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:55:40 -0000, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> >You can, as Mark points out, just bypass the rehostat and connect 
all
> >3 wires together. You lose the ability to dim the dash lights. The
> >dimmer doesn't work all that great anyway. When you dim the 
lights,
> >just when you get to about the spot you like it, the lights go 
out.
> >When I first got my car I thought the dimmer was bad. I bought a 
new
> >one (not cheap) and when I put it in I was very disappointed that 
it
> >did the exact same thing! One day I may rewind the element in it 
or
> >try a different one.
> >David Teitelbaum
> >vin 10757
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_> wrote:
> >>
> >> Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4 years.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> --- Marv Hein <marvhein_at_dml_> wrote:
> >> > 
> >> > A final question:  I found an old DML post that
> >> > suggests the rheostat 
> >> > c
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 12:38:02 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

where does on place the floor jack under the car? where is a safe contact point, where there is no risk of bending something? I would prefer to put the floor jack somewhere midway between the wheels. In the front there is frame member behind crush tube, but I'm concerned I would bend metal if I lifted there

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Mon 4/24/2006 11:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.



Just another reason why I don't like ramps. They can be unsteady and
the ramp can also fall over sideways, the cheap ones can bend and
collapse, it is not easy to get centered and you can potentially drive
right over the front. They must be used only on a hard, flat surface
like a concrete garage floor because they can sink into an ashphalt
driveway. You can't do any suspension work or take the tires off. On a
Delorean clearance is a problem just geting up on them especially if
the car is lowered. I don't know of ANY mechanics that would recomend
using them. If you don't have access to a lift then get a good floor
jack and 4 jackstands. It won't cost much more than the ramps and it
is a WHOLE lot safer. This is a hobby to most of us, not something we
would want to risk getting hurt over!
 As for the pins that hold the brake resovoir on, the bolt and nut is
fine or you can make a pin. It is just like a nail with a hole in it
for the cotter pin. If the shop took it's time they probably could
have worked the old pin out and saved it. The brake fluid is supposed
to be changed every 2 years. Expect the 4 calipers to start leaking
soon. Check the clutch cylinders. If the fluid is dark change it also.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I had a cracked rear axle boot so I purchased complete RH & LH kits
> from DMCH . The kits come with plenty of grease; I still have some
> of the old grease deep in my skin around the finger nails since last
> Thursday.  I love ordering form DMCH, the packaging is always great,
> and I love the Custom printed DMC tape they use for the boxes. One
> problem I had with the kit was the small metal zip collar (hose
> clamp) was like 1-2 inches too long and could not be used, not sure









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 16:37:52 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage

Paul,

How did this get resolved?

I am having a similar problem after working in this area (dashboard 
dimmer).

It now takes quite a fight to get into reverse.  All other gears are 
smooth and, if I do manage to get the stick far enough left, reverse 
is smooth too.  

On inspection, I see my lower (rubber) boot is also depressed inward 
like a bowl.  

Marv
#10820


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Again, I speak too soon.  With the shift boots off and the linkage 
> exposed, the stick worked properly yesterday through the gears, I 
> believe.  When I reassembled and tried to take off for work this 
> morning, I had a hell of a time putting the stick into reverse, 
then 
> I could not shift into first or second, only three through five!  
> When I reassembled the thick rubber protector over the linkage, 
> there is a cup shaped section where the stick goes through. Is it 
> possible that this could be binding for me?  Should the cup-like 
> shape be depressed inward (like a bowl), or should it protrude up 
> around the stick (like an upside down  bowl)?  I am thinking I 
have 
> it inward, possibly getting in the way of me moving the stick 
enough 
> to the left.  If not, the addition of the reverse safety pin is 
> causing me another issue.
> 
> Thanks to anyone who may have similar experience with the shifter 
> area.
> 
> Paul
> 
> Vin 10944
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> wrote:
> > Being as impatient as I am, and not waiting for what I am sure 
> would 
> > have been excellent advice, I went to a local hardware store and 
> > bought the same diameter/length tensioner pin.  The broken pin 
> > easily pulled out with pliers and I tapped in the new one.  It 
> works 
> > fine now - no more accidentally putting the car into reverse!
> > 
> > Paul
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> > wrote:
> > > I received a few posts on my problem earlier this month where 
I 
> > had 
> > > trouble looking for second gear when shifting. Someone 
mentioned 
> > > that the reverse safety pin on the shift linkage could bent. 
> This 
> > is 
> > > the safety pin that makes it so you have to pull up on the 
> shifter 
> > > to put the car into reverse. 
> > > 
> > > I looked at it today, and that is exactly the problem.  The 
pin 
> > > completely broke off!  The broken half was sitting inside the 
> > > linkage area.  Thus, when I am looking for second gear, I am 
> also 
> > > fishing around reverse and fourth gears instead of being 
> confident 
> > > to shove the stick all the way to the left into second gear.  
> > Thus, 
> > > I grind or shift into fourth quite often when downshifting, 
and 
> > > probably dangerously working against the reverse gears once in 
a 
> > > while when I hear that awful grinding sound!
> > > 
> > > Is this pin easy to change?.  Will I be able to pull it or tap 
> it 
> > > out and replace with a new one (if I pull it out, I want to 
make 
> > > sure there are no surprises)? Also, is this pin a common sheer-
> > type 
> > > pin that can be bought at a hardware store?
> > > 
> > > Thanks for any advice.
> > > 
> > > Paul
> > > Vin 10944
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 17:29:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage

You need to make sure there is no excess play in the linkage. Check
the rubber washers in the ends of the links that the bolts go through.
Adjust the linkage as per the Workshop Manual. A 1/2 turn one way or
the other can make a difference. Make sure the shifter is working
properly. You must pull the knob up to get over the reverse gate. If
the pin is bent that can prevent you from getting into reverse. The
linkage may also require lubrication. The long pin should also have a
smaller pin installed inside it to make it stronger. Check the motor
mounts for any cracks. If you have a blown motor mount it will make it
hard to shift too. The front left one goes first so look it over
carefully.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Paul,
> 
> How did this get resolved?
> 
> I am having a similar problem after working in this area (dashboard 
> dimmer).
> 
> It now takes quite a fight to get into reverse.  All other gears are 
> smooth and, if I do manage to get the stick far enough left, reverse 
> is smooth too.  
> 
> On inspection, I see my lower (rubber) boot is also depressed inward 
> like a bowl.  
> 
> Marv
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 12:40:53 -0500
From: <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Gluing parts

There was mention made to gluing a rheostat part recently and it made me
think of a product I found last year at the Back to the Fifties car show in
St Paul. It's one of the largest U. S. car shows limited to vehicles pre
nineteen seventy five with over 10,000 cars showing up each year.  Almost
every after market vendor shows up and one was selling a product called
Lighting Blast which is a gluing process that works very well on the 
plastics used in
automobiles. It does work on other items as well but I've successfully and
easily repaired parts like the escutcheon moldings on the arm rests. The 20
gram kit consists of a primer, bonding agent and for some problems, an
re-enforcing filler. It's an instant bond : not like curing epoxy. I don't
have any connection with this product except to say it works one heck of a
lot better than super glue but it's a bit over priced at $20 for a 20 gram
kit. They do offer other sizes in their kits and the web site is:
 http://lightningbondglue.com/

Bruce Benson





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 17:44:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

Get a short piece of 2X4, about 1 foot long, and put it on the floor
jack pad. In the front use it front-to-back just ahead of the fuel
tank. You will see the head of a small bolt, go just in front of that
place the 2X4 and lift. For the rear you really don't need the wood,
just a shop rag. Use the frame member under and just in front of the
motor in the center. For the jackstands, in the front I put them under
the loops, stay away from the lower control arms, they can be easily
damaged. In the rear I put the jackstands under the lower shock
absorber mount. You have to be careful because they will tend to
spread as you put weight on them so you have to reset the jackstands.
Be careful not to let the jackstands touch the rear tires. I usually
lift the front first so I have enough room to get under with the floor
jack and the wood. Try to only lift on a flat, smooth, and level
concrete floor. With good jackstands you can lift the car way up into
"Hover Mode" so you can move under it easily with a creeper. If the
frame of the car is very rotten you have to be extra careful how you
lift it. You can do a lot of damage if it is rusted out and you are
not careful.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> where does on place the floor jack under the car? where is a safe
contact point, where there is no risk of bending something? I would
prefer to put the floor jack somewhere midway between the wheels. In
the front there is frame member behind crush tube, but I'm concerned I
would bend metal if I lifted there
> 
> ________________________________
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 17:46:54 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage

After I replaced the safety pin, I had a tough time moving the stick 
far enough to the left to get it into reverse, as I stated.  Dave 
Swingle replied to my problem offline with this,

"You need to adjust the crossgate linkage (the cable, not the rods). 
This is done under the car above the transmission where the linkage 
goes. Very gradual adjustment, i.e. go about 1/2 turn at a time on 
the cable. The cable adjusts the left/right action of the shifter."

The procedure is also in the manual, I believe, which I followed.  
This adjustment moved all the shift actions slightly to the right, 
allowing enough room on the left for the reverse gear action.  I 
forget how the lower rubber boot ended up, though.

Hope this helps.

Good luck,

Paul 

dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Paul,
> 
> How did this get resolved?
> 
> I am having a similar problem after working in this area 
(dashboard 
> dimmer).
> 
> It now takes quite a fight to get into reverse.  All other gears 
are 
> smooth and, if I do manage to get the stick far enough left, 
reverse 
> is smooth too.  
> 
> On inspection, I see my lower (rubber) boot is also depressed 
inward 
> like a bowl.  
> 
> Marv
> #10820
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Again, I speak too soon.  With the shift boots off and the 
linkage 
> > exposed, the stick worked properly yesterday through the gears, 
I 
> > believe.  When I reassembled and tried to take off for work this 
> > morning, I had a hell of a time putting the stick into reverse, 
> then 
> > I could not shift into first or second, only three through 
five!  
> > When I reassembled the thick rubber protector over the linkage, 
> > there is a cup shaped section where the stick goes through. Is 
it 
> > possible that this could be binding for me?  Should the cup-like 
> > shape be depressed inward (like a bowl), or should it protrude 
up 
> > around the stick (like an upside down  bowl)?  I am thinking I 
> have 
> > it inward, possibly getting in the way of me moving the stick 
> enough 
> > to the left.  If not, the addition of the reverse safety pin is 
> > causing me another issue.
> > 
> > Thanks to anyone who may have similar experience with the 
shifter 
> > area.
> > 
> > Paul
> > 
> > Vin 10944
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Being as impatient as I am, and not waiting for what I am sure 
> > would 
> > > have been excellent advice, I went to a local hardware store 
and 
> > > bought the same diameter/length tensioner pin.  The broken pin 
> > > easily pulled out with pliers and I tapped in the new one.  It 
> > works 
> > > fine now - no more accidentally putting the car into reverse!
> > > 
> > > Paul
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" 
<paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > I received a few posts on my problem earlier this month 
where 
> I 
> > > had 
> > > > trouble looking for second gear when shifting. Someone 
> mentioned 
> > > > that the reverse safety pin on the shift linkage could bent. 
> > This 
> > > is 
> > > > the safety pin that makes it so you have to pull up on the 
> > shifter 
> > > > to put the car into reverse. 
> > > > 
> > > > I looked at it today, and that is exactly the problem.  The 
> pin 
> > > > completely broke off!  The broken half was sitting inside 
the 
> > > > linkage area.  Thus, when I am looking for second gear, I am 
> > also 
> > > > fishing around reverse and fourth gears instead of being 
> > confident 
> > > > to shove the stick all the way to the left into second 
gear.  
> > > Thus, 
> > > > I grind or shift into fourth quite often when downshifting, 
> and 
> > > > probably dangerously working against the reverse gears once 
in 
> a 
> > > > while when I hear that awful grinding sound!
> > > > 
> > > > Is this pin easy to change?.  Will I be able to pull it or 
tap 
> > it 
> > > > out and replace with a new one (if I pull it out, I want to 
> make 
> > > > sure there are no surprises)? Also, is this pin a common 
sheer-
> > > type 
> > > > pin that can be bought at a hardware store?
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks for any advice.
> > > > 
> > > > Paul
> > > > Vin 10944
> >
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 14:07:27 -0400
From: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" <klo_at_dml_cidio.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed

Hi, Andy:

Your posting on the DMCH exhaust system and your hassle with the  
installation as well as the final cost of $1,800 is about the same  
cost of the Stainless Exhaust System from England (without the  
cats).  Several years ago I had contemplated between the two systems  
and I had decided on the Stainless Steel System for it is  
manufactured with a heavier gauged stainless steel with the tubing  
and the muffler.  The Stainless Steel System is all welded together  
with mounting flanges that used to installed the system together by  
nuts and bolts and not by the traditional muffler clamps as used by  
DMCH.  The welds on the Stainless Steel System are mechanical and  
artistically done.  The installation of the system was a "no hassle"  
as told to me by Pat from PJ Grady who had installed the system.  Pat  
had claimed that the Stainless System fitted exactly onto all of the  
OEM hanger mounting points and does not need modifications, the only  
problem Pat had expressed was that the holes on the mounting flange  
which had to be fitted onto the engine block should had been slightly  
bigger so it could slipped easier onto the engine's studs -- He had  
to ream the holes bigger to give some room to fit onto the engine's  
studs.

BTW, there is no "fatiguing" droning effect with the Stainless Steel  
System as you expressed with the DMCH system.  This droning effect is  
a common problem with the Flowmaster muffler system that I also have  
had in the custom fabrication that I had on my DeLorean to which I  
had then promptly remove right after I had fro about a month’s time.

All in all, both of the Stainless System and the DMCH exhaust systems  
are noisier then the OEM, but the trade off with both systems are  
that there will be more power and it is peppier, which offers the  
DeLorean with a different feel, as well as it is “be driven.”   With  
either system, everyone will notice the unique sound before they turn  
their heads to that it is see a DeLorean.....

I still wish the exhaust's decibels is lower so I can hear the  
nuisances from my sound system.  Hey, how is your sound system in  
your DeLorean?  Any new upgrades or modification since then?

Kayo Ong

#5508

Lic 9D NY




On Apr 23, 2006, at 6:53 PM, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Hey Group,
>
> Well today was a pretty good day for me, all things considered.   
> Jim  Reeve
> came 250 miles to help me reinstall my engine and transmission,  
> make sure
> everything was adjusted properly, and to install DMCH's  
> performance  exhaust.  At
> the urging of another DMLer, I swapped the Flowmaster muffler  for  
> a similar
> Magnaflow muffler, which alleviates the concerns many have   
> expressed with a
> raspy sound and burbling on decel.  I had the Magnaflow  muffler  
> Jet-Hot coated
> just like the rest of the system and with some minor  modifications  
> to the
> hangers, everything went together very easily (but quite  tight!!).
>
> Here are my thoughts with this exhaust system.  It is built well  
> and  looks
> really good with the Jet Hot coating.  It fits really tight but   
> that's OK
> because it does go together easily once you figure it out.  I  feel  
> an increase in
> torque in 1st and 2nd gear accompanied by a MUCH more freely   
> revving engine.
>  There are a few burbles and hiccups on deceleration but  they are  
> very
> slight and are of no concern.  The exhaust sounds deeper with  a  
> throatiness that
> must be heard to be believed. No raspy or rice-burner  sounds.  I  
> actually WANT
> to rev it up and hear it!  In fact I don't  think I need a stereo  
> anymore
> because I'd rather hear the exhaust!!   The downside is that the  
> deep roar of it
> is a little strong at some low RPM's  and could get fatiguing, but  
> I think
> it'll be fine for what I use the car  for.  I also noticed that the  
> pass side of
> the exhaust system hangs  slightly lower than the driver side.   
> That is not an
> installation mistake,  it is determined by the tubing and the way  
> it all fits
> together. I am planning  on bringing the car to an exhaust shop to  
> see if
> they have any ideas for  correcting this.  It's very slight and is  
> only an
> annoyance for an anal guy  like me.  Another problem with this  
> system is that DMCH
> really needs to get  on the ball and provide some good decent  
> instructions for
> the system as well as  tips and tricks for a successful install.   
> Some issues
> I had include  brackets being drilled incorrectly, a total lack of
> documentation that James  Espy graciously sent to me via mail (but  
> it was only Jet-Hot
> documentation and  nothing pertaining to the install), missing  
> gaskets for the
> cat-to-header  connection (which I got at autozone, and I have  
> talked to other
> owners who say  that DMCH does not provide these - emails went  
> unanswered), I
> also had to  lengthen the wire for the Lambda probe (no  
> documentation to warn
> about this), as  well as the most curious instance of one of the  
> included
> manifold studs  being too long so that it interferes with one of  
> the header
> pipes!! I had to put  it in backwards so the header would clear  
> it.  Would have been
> nice to know  that ahead of time.  Also the gaskets that came for  
> the headers
> were  terrible and I had to get sandwiched plate gaskets from  
> Volvo.  BUT I
> am  being kind of unfair because DMCH did modify one of the headers  
> for me at
> no  charge to accommodate a quirk with my engine caused by a  
> dreaded PO.   That
> made up for all the little annoyances.  Overall I am glad I made   
> this move!
> It was worth the cost (almost $1800 after 2nd muffler and  little  
> bits).
>
> The only thing I have a problem with is my front main seal.  We   
> started the
> car last night and it didn't leak.  In the morning there were  no  
> signs of
> leakage.  Then once we were done with the car we took it for a   
> cruise and at our
> destination we saw a few drips of oil coming from the front  seal.   
> Turns out
> that it doesn't leak while running or sitting, but after  you shut  
> the engine
> off after a drive it leaks about 10 drips in a row and then   
> stops.  I just
> replaced the seal with Grady's double-lip seal and I sleeved  the  
> pulley too.
> Tonight when the engine cools down I am going to change  the oil  
> because what
> is coming from the pulley looks really watery and has a  reddish  
> tint to it
> (which is probably the gasket sealer spray I used when  replacing  
> the oil pan
> gasket).  I wonder if the gasket spray, which  oversprayed a  
> little, has diluted
> into the oil and is acting as a transfer agent  through the seal?   
> Well
> that's why I am changing the oil (with Mobil Delvac  Super 1300) so  
> I can eliminate
> contamination.
>
> Any other ideas on this?
>
> Many thanks go out to Jim Reeve (whom I now owe a full day of help  
> with his
> car!!), Jason Czarnecki, and Dave Swingle (for tons of advice and good
> tips!).  Can't wait for Pheasant Run!
>
> Andy Lien
>
> Fargo, ND
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:49:39 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

great, good clear instructions. many thanks, David

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Mon 4/24/2006 1:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.



Get a short piece of 2X4, about 1 foot long, and put it on the floor
jack pad. In the front use it front-to-back just ahead of the fuel
tank. You will see the head of a small bolt, go just in front of that
place the 2X4 and lift. For the rear you really don't need the wood,
just a shop rag. Use the frame member under and just in front of the
motor in the center. For the jackstands, in the front I put them under
the loops, stay away from the lower control arms, they can be easily
damaged. In the rear I put the jackstands under the lower shock
absorber mount. You have to be careful because they will tend to
spread as you put weight on them so you have to reset the jackstands.
Be careful not to let the jackstands touch the rear tires. I usually
lift the front first so I have enough room to get under with the floor
jack and the wood. Try to only lift on a flat, smooth, and level
concrete floor. With good jackstands you can lift the car way up into
"Hover Mode" so you can move under it easily with a creeper. If the
frame of the car is very rotten you have to be extra careful how you
lift it. You can do a lot of damage if it is rusted out and you are
not careful.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> where does on place the floor jack under the car? where is a safe
contact point, where there is no risk of bending something? I would
prefer to put the floor jack somewhere midway between the wheels. In
the front there is frame member behind crush tube, but I'm concerned I
would bend metal if I lifted there
>
> ________________________________
>








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 20:10:07 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

Thanks Dave, I had a complete brake system overhaul at Baurel's  a 
year or so ago, new calipers assemblies, fluids the whole eight 
yards, nine yards would have added the master cylinder to the list.
Better not leak! I hate leaks.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> Just another reason why I don't like ramps. They can be unsteady 
and
> the ramp can also fall over sideways, the cheap ones can bend and
> collapse, it is not easy to get centered and you can potentially 
drive
> right over the front. They must be used only on a hard, flat 
surface
> like a concrete garage floor because they can sink into an ashphalt
> driveway. You can't do any suspension work or take the tires off. 
On a
> Delorean clearance is a problem just geting up on them especially 
if
> the car is lowered. I don't know of ANY mechanics that would 
recomend
> using them. If you don't have access to a lift then get a good 
floor
> jack and 4 jackstands. It won't cost much more than the ramps and 
it
> is a WHOLE lot safer. This is a hobby to most of us, not something 
we
> would want to risk getting hurt over! 
>  As for the pins that hold the brake resovoir on, the bolt and nut 
is
> fine or you can make a pin. It is just like a nail with a hole in 
it
> for the cotter pin. If the shop took it's time they probably could
> have worked the old pin out and saved it. The brake fluid is 
supposed
> to be changed every 2 years. Expect the 4 calipers to start leaking
> soon. Check the clutch cylinders. If the fluid is dark change it 
also. 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_> 
wrote:
> >
> > I had a cracked rear axle boot so I purchased complete RH & LH 
kits 
> > from DMCH . The kits come with plenty of grease; I still have 
some 
> > of the old grease deep in my skin around the finger nails since 
last 
> > Thursday.  I love ordering form DMCH, the packaging is always 
great, 
> > and I love the Custom printed DMC tape they use for the boxes. 
One 
> > problem I had with the kit was the small metal zip collar (hose 
> > clamp) was like 1-2 inches too long and could not be used, not 
sure
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 20:31:56 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please read for safety.

For the front of the car you could try at the bottom of my web page

Kind Regards

Mike
#2001
Doc 403

http://www.orgsites.com/tx/bozzzydmc/_pgg6.php3

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> where does on place the floor jack under the car? where is a safe 
contact point, where there is no risk of bending something? I would 
prefer to put the floor jack somewhere midway between the wheels. In 
the front there is frame member behind crush tube, but I'm concerned 
I would bend metal if I lifted there
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Mon 4/24/2006 11:34 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Planning to replace axle boots yourself? Please 
read for safety.
> 
> 
> 
> Just another reason why I don't like ramps. They can be unsteady 
and





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 17:51:05 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Door Locks

John,
There is a copper disk (switch) as part of the keyed door lock that gets
dirty or bent and  the switch part will only work lock or unlock or not at
all. I have this same problem with my car where I can only unlock both doors
from the drivers side but the passenger side locks and unlocks both doors.
The problem is disassembling the door lock to clean or adjust the copper
ring. There is a plastic ring that holds the whole lock to the door and is
very brittle and will break as you try to disassemble the lock and I don't
believe they are available any longer. It's a very difficult job to perform
because its up inside the door and hard to see.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
John Poland
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 1:37 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door Locks

Got a new problem with my door locks.  Drivers side will lock both doors,
but will only unlock the driver's side.  It doesn't engage the solenoid, it
only moves the actual mechanical part when using either the inside lock or
the key.  I haven't taken the door apart yet, but could there be a wire
loose?  Will the solenoid work one way and not
the other?   






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:43:17 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How do I replace reverse safety pin on shift linkage

Aw, problem turned out to be much simpler.  

A new shifter knob pushed the top boot down enough that there was 
too much slack material bunched up against the left side of the 
frame.  

Couldn't tell by looking at it, but it works fine with the frame 
popped loose, so I'll be removing some slack.

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> After I replaced the safety pin, I had a tough time moving the 
stick 
> far enough to the left to get it into reverse, as I stated.  Dave 
> Swingle replied to my problem offline with this,
> 
> "You need to adjust the crossgate linkage (the cable, not the 
rods). 
> This is done under the car above the transmission where the 
linkage 
> goes. Very gradual adjustment, i.e. go about 1/2 turn at a time on 
> the cable. The cable adjusts the left/right action of the shifter."
> 
> The procedure is also in the manual, I believe, which I followed.  
> This adjustment moved all the shift actions slightly to the right, 
> allowing enough room on the left for the reverse gear action.  I 
> forget how the lower rubber boot ended up, though.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Paul 
> 
> dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Paul,
> > 
> > How did this get resolved?
> > 
> > I am having a similar problem after working in this area 
> (dashboard 
> > dimmer).
> > 
> > It now takes quite a fight to get into reverse.  All other gears 
> are 
> > smooth and, if I do manage to get the stick far enough left, 
> reverse 
> > is smooth too.  
> > 
> > On inspection, I see my lower (rubber) boot is also depressed 
> inward 
> > like a bowl.  
> > 
> > Marv
> > #10820
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> 
wrote:
> > >
> > > Again, I speak too soon.  With the shift boots off and the 
> linkage 
> > > exposed, the stick worked properly yesterday through the 
gears, 
> I 
> > > believe.  When I reassembled and tried to take off for work 
this 
> > > morning, I had a hell of a time putting the stick into 
reverse, 
> > then 
> > > I could not shift into first or second, only three through 
> five!  
> > > When I reassembled the thick rubber protector over the 
linkage, 
> > > there is a cup shaped section where the stick goes through. Is 
> it 
> > > possible that this could be binding for me?  Should the cup-
like 
> > > shape be depressed inward (like a bowl), or should it protrude 
> up 
> > > around the stick (like an upside down  bowl)?  I am thinking I 
> > have 
> > > it inward, possibly getting in the way of me moving the stick 
> > enough 
> > > to the left.  If not, the addition of the reverse safety pin 
is 
> > > causing me another issue.
> > > 
> > > Thanks to anyone who may have similar experience with the 
> shifter 
> > > area.
> > > 
> > > Paul
> > > 
> > > Vin 10944
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" 
<paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Being as impatient as I am, and not waiting for what I am 
sure 
> > > would 
> > > > have been excellent advice, I went to a local hardware store 
> and 
> > > > bought the same diameter/length tensioner pin.  The broken 
pin 
> > > > easily pulled out with pliers and I tapped in the new one.  
It 
> > > works 
> > > > fine now - no more accidentally putting the car into reverse!
> > > > 
> > > > Paul
> > > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" 
> <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > I received a few posts on my problem earlier this month 
> where 
> > I 
> > > > had 
> > > > > trouble looking for second gear when shifting. Someone 
> > mentioned 
> > > > > that the reverse safety pin on the shift linkage could 
bent. 
> > > This 
> > > > is 
> > > > > the safety pin that makes it so you have to pull up on the 
> > > shifter 
> > > > > to put the car into reverse. 
> > > > > 
> > > > > I looked at it today, and that is exactly the problem.  
The 
> > pin 
> > > > > completely broke off!  The broken half was sitting inside 
> the 
> > > > > linkage area.  Thus, when I am looking for second gear, I 
am 
> > > also 
> > > > > fishing around reverse and fourth gears instead of being 
> > > confident 
> > > > > to shove the stick all the way to the left into second 
> gear.  
> > > > Thus, 
> > > > > I grind or shift into fourth quite often when 
downshifting, 
> > and 
> > > > > probably dangerously working against the reverse gears 
once 
> in 
> > a 
> > > > > while when I hear that awful grinding sound!
> > > > > 
> > > > > Is this pin easy to change?.  Will I be able to pull it or 
> tap 
> > > it 
> > > > > out and replace with a new one (if I pull it out, I want 
to 
> > make 
> > > > > sure there are no surprises)? Also, is this pin a common 
> sheer-
> > > > type 
> > > > > pin that can be bought at a hardware store?
> > > > > 
> > > > > Thanks for any advice.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Paul
> > > > > Vin 10944
> > >
> >
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 00:36:09 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Door Locks

Update on my locks:
Opened the driver's door today (driver side unlocked, passenger side 
locked) and the passenger side unlocked when the DS opened 
completely.  Closed the door, locked both (from inside) and unlocked 
them again.  Only the DS unlocked (no sound from the solenoid at 
all).  Left it that way on my way home.  As i stopped at a traffic 
light the solenoid engaged and the PS unlocked.  Tried it several 
times and everything is now operating properly.  ??????? Is this 
just a bad contact to the solenoid or what?
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

John Poland
05935

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Got a new problem with my door locks.  Drivers side will lock both
> doors, but will only unlock the driver's side.  It doesn't engage 
the
> solenoid, it only moves the actual mechanical part when using 
either
> the inside lock or the key.  I haven't taken the door apart yet, 
but
> could there be a wire loose?  Will the solenoid work one way and 
not
> the other?   
> I think everything in there is still original.  Thanks in advance 
for
> your help,
> 
> John Poland
> 05935
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 23:37:43 -0000
From: "thomasttait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch update - how about the new dashboards?

James:

Thaks for the update, can you say anything about work on reproduction
dash pads?

Tom



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, James Espey <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Realizing that not everyone here reads the dmchelp.com forums, I wanted 
> to re-post here the recent update on the headlight switch reproduction 
> program.
> 
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 19:36:50 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMCH exhaust with alternate muffler installed

 
 
Hello Kayo,
 
Well actually the last time I checked, with the current exchange rate, the  
Euro system tipped the scales at over $2000.... but like you said, perhaps it 
is  worth it.   So far I am glad I made the move, and I sure love how it  looks 
too!!  Maybe I made the hassle seem like more than it was, but it  wasn't 
exactly plug and play as you say the Euro system is. Both kits I am sure  are 
great with their own trade-offs and advantages.
 
I have not done anything new with my stereo system, and I am still enjoying  
it thanks to you.  Only problem I have with it is some ground loop noise or  
something that comes through my subwoofer from time to time.  I have not  had 
opportunity to try and isolate or fix it yet.  Maybe this  summer!!
 
Take care,
Andy
 
 
In a message dated 4/24/2006 2:44:34 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
klo_at_dml_cidio.net writes:

I still  wish the exhaust's decibels is lower so I can hear the  
nuisances  from my sound system.  Hey, how is your sound system in  
your  DeLorean?  Any new upgrades or modification since then?

Kayo  Ong

#5508

Lic 9D NY



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 22:36:54 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com>
Subject: Re: Door Locks

John - The issue could be with the bell crank "wiper switches" or with 
the solenoids.  The solenoids have two separate windings - one for 
the "lock" direction, and the other for the "unlock" direction.  If you 
have a solenoid that has failed in one direction, this will result in 
the symptoms you describe.  The other cause for this condition is a 
faulty bell crank wiper switch.  The switches in each door are there to 
provide positional information to the lock module, which then activates 
the other side to get agreement on position (locked or unlocked) for 
both doors.  If the wiper switch adjustment is bad, you can reset the 
adjustments per the shop manual or the service bulletin that deals with 
setting the latches and locks.  If the solenoid has gone bad, which 
seems likely given the sudden onset of your problem, then replacement 
is your only option.  As an ultimate solution to these types of door 
lock issues, might I suggest our Door Lock Combo Kit (K2916DP) which 
replaces the solenoids with linear actuators and replaces the 
problematic door lock module with the latest in digital upgrades for 
this component?  The internal diagnostics in this digital module will 
help to troubleshoot any existing door lock linkage or mechanism issues 
as well.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Got a new problem with my door locks.  Drivers side will lock both
> doors, but will only unlock the driver's side.  It doesn't engage the
> solenoid, it only moves the actual mechanical part when using either
> the inside lock or the key.  I haven't taken the door apart yet, but
> could there be a wire loose?  Will the solenoid work one way and not
> the other?   
> I think everything in there is still original.  Thanks in advance for
> your help,
> 
> John Poland
> 05935
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------