From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 8:16 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3219

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Motorized bonnet action
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

2. Re: Speedo Cable Support
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Speedo Cable Support
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

4. speakers
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

5. Speaker replacement
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

6. Gray seat covers-used For Sale
From: Joshua Schwartz <Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Final Weekend for DCS with Free stuff.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Motorized bonnet action
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

9. RE: Ethanol in Gasoline
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Speaker replacement
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

11. Re: Speaker replacement
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. RE: Speaker replacement
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

13. Re: speakers
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>

14. Re: Speedo Cable Support
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: Re: speakers
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

16. RE: Speaker replacement
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Motorized bonnet action
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

18. Delorean Sighting
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

19. Re: Motorized bonnet action
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: speakers
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Speaker replacement
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

22. Re: Speaker replacement
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 23:17:48 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Motorized bonnet action

This is cool, but is there any way to get it to open and close any faster?
How much space does it take up in the bonnet?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Brandys
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 10:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Motorized bonnet action

Many DeLorean owners have installed Toby Petersen's Trunk-a-loft Kit. 
It's a great alternative to pulling the release lever under the dash, and it's wise to have a backup just in case you break your trunk release cable.
But I wanted my bonnet to  do more than just unlatch. I wanted to motorize its motion from a fully closed to fully open position. To see a video of my remote control power-bonnet using a linear actuator and microcontroller for motor control, click the link
below:

www.deloreanmacmini.com

It will take a while for the quicktime movie to load. It's about 5 minutes long. My best advice is: click the link, go grab a beer, and when you come back it will be ready to play.

This car and the soon-to-be Mac Mini DeLorean integration will be at Ken's Show in Chicago over Father's Day weekend. Hope to see you there!

-Ryan Brandys





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Yahoo! Groups Links



 






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 04:56:45 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Cable Support

Yep, I had the coat hanger bracket.
Zip-tie it is!  

Thanks, Dave.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Zip-tie it to or near the brake line to take the stress off the
angle 
> drive. Replacing that metal bracket (if you had the one that looks 
> like coat-hangar wire) is a pain because you have to open the brake 
> line.
> 
> The pull-back on the sheath is pretty normal, just keep it well- 
> greased so it doesn't freeze up and eat the angle drive.
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like my lower speedo cable support has either broken or
come 
> > apart. I found the "coat hanger" dangling from the cable and
> clanking
> > a bit as I drove yesterday.  Does this piece snap in someplace or
> has
> > it sheared off?  
> > 
> > Is the support really required?  I know it was added, presumably
> for
> > good reason.  I also suspect there are plenty of '81 cars doing
> just
> > fine without it.  My lower cable seems fairly long and droopy.
> > 
> > The outer sheath of the cable has pulled back a couple of inches
> from
> > the connection at the angle drive.  Seems to be working fine and
> the
> > cable itself does not appear to be exposed.  Any concerns here?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Marv
> > #10820
> > AZ-D
> >
>









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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 03:24:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo Cable Support

That cable support was added to reduce the strain of the cable on the angle drive. There were also varying lengths of lower speedometer cable, some short and some long. If the cable is too short it will be stretched when turning the wheel and going over bumps. Too long and it kinks. Especially without the support bracket. The angle drive was also neglected when it came to lubrication. In fact the factory did a service bulletin to make sure it got lubricated. After 25 years the upper and lower cables should also be lubricated. If the needle bounces at low speeds it is a sign that the speedometer system needs attention. If the "coat hanger" is dangling you can remove the parts and have it welded back together.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Zip-tie it to or near the brake line to take the stress off the angle 
> drive. Replacing that metal bracket (if you had the one that looks l








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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 16:13:15 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: speakers

Hi everyone,

 

I am looking to upgrade my speakers as the originals are well past their sell by date.  

 

Is there anything bigger than the 4x10 that will fit behind the rear panels?

 

Can 4 or bigger be mounted under the dashboard at the front?

 

Any ideas where to mount the tweeters?

 

Thanks

 

Chris H.

Vin 5255


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.1/326 - Release Date: 27/04/2006
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:26:37 -0700
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Speaker replacement

I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:56:14 -0400
From: Joshua Schwartz <Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Gray seat covers-used For Sale

I have just replaced my original seat covers in my car with NOS OEM seat 
covers. My old covers were not torn or ripped, just the usual wear that 
occurs with the gray covers on the side bolsters. I will attend the DMA 
Spring Social this weekend (leaving early Saturday morning) and will 
bring them with me. If anyone is planning to attend the social and is 
interested in checking them out, let me know on Saturday at the event. 
If you are not going to attend and are interested in them, I have 
pictures. First come, first serve. Make an offer.
Thanks,
- Joshua Schwartz
001292
020098




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 10:45:11 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Final Weekend for DCS with Free stuff.

If you register by May 1st for the DCS car show in Chicago June 15-18 you  
will recieve a free Chicago T shirt plus each person will recieve a pin.
After May 1st the T-shirt is $10 and the pins will be sold at the  show
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:13:52 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Motorized bonnet action

Hi Mate

Thats a great bit of kit you have there, what sort of money are we 
talking for the whole set-up??

Also, fantastic podcast!! I have been messing about with one for ages 
over here in Northern Ireland and could help you out with a few 
things.  Possibly Eurofest 2006 videos and audio podcasts with former 
employees.

Let me know if you are interested.

Alistair McCann
iMac G5.







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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 16:40:43 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Ethanol in Gasoline

  For the first 9 mos. I owned my DMC I used gasohol (10% eth-oh) with no 
problem- July-April '82. When it was no longer available in Tulsa, I 
switched to Unleaded 87.   I noticed no difference in fuel economy or 
performance.  It just burned a bit cleaner.       Drive Stainless    Robert  
VIN 6924


From: "Rick Heile" <rick.heile_at_dml_hp.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Ethanol in Gasoline
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 13:48:33 -0000

Hi,
Since I have been using my D I have only put the best quality gasoline
into her. Now in our area Mobil has started adding 10% ethanol to all
of their grades of gas. Does anyone have any infomation on how the POV
will accept this change on fuel. Do I need to use additives? I want to
make sure I don't cause any issues.

Thanks,

Rick







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 10:56:09 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Speaker replacement

I made my own.  I made a template of the shape of the wheel arch, the
top and bottom of the luggage compartment, and on the drivers side a cut
out for the cable release and two pieces of plywood so they could snugly
slip into place, I cut holes in the center of the ply for the speakers
and mounted them.  I then got some 2" foam and cut it slightly large
than the ply, again with a hole in the center for the speaker.  I
removed the speaker, mounted the foam to the ply with spray adhesive,
then covered the ply and foam with grey cloth the color of the carpet.
I cut an opening in the cloth for the speaker, re installed it, put on
the grills and was able to wedge it in place.  The foam being slightly
oversized keeps the speaker well in place and I still have most of my
cargo space.

It took a couple of hours overall.  I consider the pieces I have now to
be temporary as I installed 4 X 10 speakers I purchased to install in
the stock location, and quickly came to the same conclusion that they
would be a pain to put in.  Eventually I'll build new ones with better
speakers.

Tom  

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Gekko West Coast Base
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 8:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Speaker replacement

I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers
and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all
possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent
quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:55:18 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Speaker replacement

I know Don Steger has something like that.   Also see my website to see what I did:
 
http://members.cardomain.com/soma576
 
Have fun!
Andy 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Gekko West Coast Base <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:26:37 -0700
Subject: [DML] Speaker replacement


I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Yahoo! Groups Links



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:00:35 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Speaker replacement

I did this a few years ago..here are some photos on how I did it:

http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/ 

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Gekko West Coast Base
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 11:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Speaker replacement

I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 17:41:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: speakers

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
 
Anything  can be done, it is a matter of how much work you want to do.
4" will fit right in, anything bigger will require reworking the dash
 (making holes) and rejiggering some kind of mounting. Be aware that
if you do not get a speaker that mounts flush the tweeter horn will
project and interfere with the mounting of the speaker. Some speakers
will require extending the mounting studs. The stock radio only puts
out less than 10 watts per channel so don't go crazy over the speakers
unless you plan to upgrade the radio. You can go a little bigger on
the rear speakers but it won't change anything much except the $$ you
will spend. Rectangular speakers are inherently junky.
 The theory of car stereos is that the front speakers (which are
closest to the listeners) mainly function as tweeters being small and
very directional. The rear speakers mainly give out omni-directional
bass (low frequencies). You are correct that the OEM speakers are way
past their prime. The stock radio will sound many times better with
new speakers. The old ones are stiff, probably cracked, and very old
technology. They were inexpensive to begin with and never meant to
last this long. Check out Crutchfield.com. They have some good
speakers at reasonable prices. They can help you select something that
will fit in easily, sound good, and fit your budget.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757






> I am looking to upgrade my speakers as the originals are well past their
> sell by date.  
> 
>  
> 
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 20:08:47 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Cable Support

Thanks. It seems I have a long lower cable.

Even though I started lubricating my AD at every oil change as soon 
as I got the car, it went out on "Angle Drive Alley" on a road trip 
to Phoenix and has since been replaced.  

I lubricated the lower cable at the same time, but have not 
lubricated the upper.  I do get a little bounce, so I'll pay 
attention to the upper next.

Marv
#10820

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> That cable support was added to reduce the strain of the cable on 
the
> angle drive. There were also varying lengths of lower speedometer
> cable, some short and some long. If the cable is too short it will 
be
> stretched when turning the wheel and going over bumps. Too long 
and it
> kinks. Especially without the support bracket. The angle drive was
> also neglected when it came to lubrication. In fact the factory 
did a
> service bulletin to make sure it got lubricated. After 25 years the
> upper and lower cables should also be lubricated. If the needle
> bounces at low speeds it is a sign that the speedometer system 
needs
> attention. If the "coat hanger" is dangling you can remove the 
parts
> and have it welded back together.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Zip-tie it to or near the brake line to take the stress off the 
angle 
> > drive. Replacing that metal bracket (if you had the one that 
looks 
> > l
>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:15:42 -0700
From: "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: RE: Re: speakers

I couldn't get 4" speakers in up in front and had to go get 3.5"...
slight changes to the dash?

Tom
#10902

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 10:42 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: speakers

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
 
Anything  can be done, it is a matter of how much work you want to do.
4" will fit right in, 




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:27:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Speaker replacement

Best to use wood that is better for acoustics.

MDF is popular for speakers..  But dont use Plywood.


--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:

> I did this a few years ago..here are some photos on
> how I did it:


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 16:34:27 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Motorized bonnet action

OK, Ryan,  tell me you aren't working on auto-close doors!!
--Pete

On Apr 27, 2006, at 10:09 PM, Bob Brandys wrote:

> Many DeLorean owners have installed Toby Petersen's Trunk-a-loft Kit.
> It's a great alternative to pulling the release lever under the dash,
> and it's wise to have a backup just in case you break your trunk
> release cable. But I wanted my bonnet to  do more than just unlatch. I
> wanted to motorize its motion from a fully closed to fully open
> position. To see a video of my remote control power-bonnet using a
> linear actuator and microcontroller for motor control, click the link
> below:
>
> www.deloreanmacmini.com
>
> It will take a while for the quicktime movie to load. It's about 5
> minutes long. My best advice is: click the link, go grab a beer, and
> when you come back it will be ready to play.
>
> This car and the soon-to-be Mac Mini DeLorean integration will be at
> Ken's Show in Chicago over Father's Day weekend. Hope to see you  
> there!
>
> -Ryan Brandys




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:36:49 -0700
From: "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Delorean Sighting

My wife was watching an old episode of "Matlock" with a guest appearance by
Don Knotts.  The episode is called "The Lemon".  Knotts' character goes to a
used car lot to buy a car and ends up with a Delorean.  Of course, it turns
out to be a lemon and he wants Matlock to sue the dealer.  The car has a lot
of screen time early in the episode.

Probably not a "new" sighting but thought I'd just mention it.

Craig Werner
07181







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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:52:20 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Motorized bonnet action

I will second that that is a great podcast!  The device itself is  
tres-cool, as well.  Question: can you still manually open and close  
the bonnet, or must you use the actuator?

Very nice bit of tech, and very very nice presentation thereof (from  
one Mac fan to an apparent other :-)

Josh


On Apr 27, 2006, at 7:09 PM, Bob Brandys wrote:

> Many DeLorean owners have installed Toby Petersen's Trunk-a-loft Kit.
> It's a great alternative to pulling the release lever under the dash,
> and it's wise to have a backup just in case you break your trunk
> release cable. But I wanted my bonnet to  do more than just unlatch. I
> wanted to motorize its motion from a fully closed to fully open
> position. To see a video of my remote control power-bonnet using a
> linear actuator and microcontroller for motor control, click the link
> below:
>
> www.deloreanmacmini.com
>
> It will take a while for the quicktime movie to load. It's about 5
> minutes long. My best advice is: click the link, go grab a beer, and
> when you come back it will be ready to play.
>
> This car and the soon-to-be Mac Mini DeLorean integration will be at
> Ken's Show in Chicago over Father's Day weekend. Hope to see you  
> there!
>
> -Ryan Brandys



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:30:04 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: speakers

My car came to me with the original radio removed (I have it), an 
only slightly better radio in its place and all-original speakers.  
Here's what I did on a small budget:

Rear:

I can't comment on installing back speakers that don't take up all 
the space because I chose to sacrifice the entire luggage space to a 
ready-made big speaker box that ate it ALL up.  I still have a 
little space on either side.  There's a photo someplace on the AZ-D 
web site. 

I just set the box in the space, connected the wires and I was done. 
(Pep Boys, about $60. If you're so inclined, the 10" speakers are 
also surrounded by neon rings.) When I need to access the fuse box 
area, I tilt the seats forward, tilt the box forward and I'm in. 

Front:

For the fronts, I picked up a pair of 3.5" Blaupunct 2-way speakers 
at Fry's Electronics for about $30 that dropped right onto the 
original mounting posts and took the original connectors.  They 
handle the 50-or-so watts/channel from the front channels of my 
stereo fine and sound much better than the originals I took out. 

David is correct in saying that the tweeter horns on a lot of the 
speakers project above the frame. The Blaupuncts "barely" projected 
and I was able to mount them just fine without distorting the dash 
speaker cutout. (I just didn't torque the nuts down real tight... if 
you see any bulging on top, back off!)  I don't get any rattling 
from the speakers.

You will want a third hand in the cramped space under the front 
dash.  A magnetic nut driver might help. It was miserable every time 
I dropped one of the nuts and had to completely extricate myself 
from under the dash to find it, then crawl back in to start over.  
On the passenger side, get yourself some working room by removing 
the air duct, etc.  

A pair of safety glasses with built-in LED lights would have helped 
a lot.  I took one nut in the eye and got an achy jaw holding a 
flashlight. I have a set of these glasses from Sears now, of course, 
and use them a lot.  

Stereo:

I didn't go nuts here either, though I did replace the original with 
a 52w x 4 stereo made by Dual that I thought fit well with dash. I 
did not add an amp and don't yet feel like I need one.  Radio ran 
about $150 and I added an integrated satellite radio tuner later 
when there was a "free" offer.  Of course, the tuner was free but 
the subscription for the service is not.

Everyone's opinions will vary, of course, depending on their 
tastes.  In what is a pretty small, fairly noisy interior, I'm happy 
with this setup.  As Johnny Sawyer wrote on the AZ-D site, "If 
you're deaf, Marv's stereo will help.  If you're not deaf, it can 
help with that too." :)

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
>  
> Anything  can be done, it is a matter of how much work you want to 
do.
> 4" will fit right in, anything bigger will require reworking the 
dash
>  (making holes) and rejiggering some kind of mounting. Be aware 
that
> if you do not get a speaker that mounts flush the tweeter horn will
> project and interfere with the mounting of the speaker. Some 
speakers
> will require extending the mounting studs. The stock radio only 
puts
> out less than 10 watts per channel so don't go crazy over the 
speakers
> unless you plan to upgrade the radio. You can go a little bigger on
> the rear speakers but it won't change anything much except the $$ 
you
> will spend. Rectangular speakers are inherently junky.
>  The theory of car stereos is that the front speakers (which are
> closest to the listeners) mainly function as tweeters being small 
and
> very directional. The rear speakers mainly give out omni-
directional
> bass (low frequencies). You are correct that the OEM speakers are 
way
> past their prime. The stock radio will sound many times better with
> new speakers. The old ones are stiff, probably cracked, and very 
old
> technology. They were inexpensive to begin with and never meant to
> last this long. Check out Crutchfield.com. They have some good
> speakers at reasonable prices. They can help you select something 
that
> will fit in easily, sound good, and fit your budget.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > I am looking to upgrade my speakers as the originals are well 
past their
> > sell by date.  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >
>










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:41:44 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Speaker replacement

I recently replaced my rear speakers without cutting anything.  
After pulling off the inner door seal you need to pry off the barbs 
that hold the seal to the inner door.  This will likely tear the 
vinyl a little but they go back where they tore it up so it's ok.  
The rear panels have extra vinyl that is wrapped around the door 
frame.  I simply pried up this wrap with a thin screwdriver and with 
a little patience I had the panel removed without cutting a thing!  
The first one took about an hour and a half, but the second one was 
done and refitted in about 45 minutes.  Replacing the speaker takes 
like 5 mins once you're in there, and that's if you keep dropping 
your screwdriver.

Stock radio now sounds significantly less crappy.  But still not 
great.

-John
#5572

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gekko West Coast Base" <gekko_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear 
speakers and to
> be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all 
possible.
> Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up 
all of
> that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  
I'm not
> looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a 
decent quality
> speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Craig Werner
> 07181
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 23:51:18 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speaker replacement

I went into one of these side panels, not to replace speakers, but 
to try to get my seat belt retractor working better.

Because I was told I had to cut, I cut. I used a razor knife. I cut 
as far out on the edge as possible so the cuts are not visible 
unless you remove the inner seal and look hard.  I think I slipped 
once when the brittle vinyl gave way. 

Replacing the inner clips held everything fine without need for 
adhesive and replacing the seal covered everything up.

Since you were able to remove without cutting, maybe more patience 
on my part and softening things up with heat would have made for an 
easier job? 

Any advice out there?  I probably have to open up the passenger side 
soon.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I recently replaced my rear speakers without cutting anything.  
> After pulling off the inner door seal you need to pry off the 
barbs 
> that hold the seal to the inner door.  This will likely tear the 
> vinyl a little but they go back where they tore it up so it's ok.  
> The rear panels have extra vinyl that is wrapped around the door 
> frame.  I simply pried up this wrap with a thin screwdriver and 
with 
> a little patience I had the panel removed without cutting a 
thing!  
> The first one took about an hour and a half, but the second one 
was 
> done and refitted in about 45 minutes.  Replacing the speaker 
takes 
> like 5 mins once you're in there, and that's if you keep dropping 
> your screwdriver.
> 
> Stock radio now sounds significantly less crappy.  But still not 
> great.
> 
> -John
> #5572








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