From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 11:56 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3220

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Celebration Exotic Car Festival April 28-30 (Disney Area)
From: "edward j cohen" <rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net>

2. Illinois Emission Testing
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: Speaker replacement
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

4. RE: Speaker replacement
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

5. Re: speakers
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: speakers
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

7. i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!
From: "blknight05" <blknight05_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

8. Keeping it Clean while adding power (and Emission Testing)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. *** Kevin *** Speaker replacement
From: "Pasquale Lombardi" <pasquale.nj_at_dml_verizon.net>

10. Re: speakers - Thanks
From: "dadoc2791" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>

11. Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: Re: speakers - Thanks
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>

13. Seat belt won't extend
From: Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>

14. Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Lambo Gallardo owner gawks at Delorean..
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

18. Re: Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

19. Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Delorean Auto Transmission on Ebay
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Re: Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

23. Re: i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!
From: "blknight05" <blknight05_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

24. Celebration Car Show Pictures
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Re: i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 21:25:17 -0400
From: "edward j cohen" <rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Celebration Exotic Car Festival April 28-30 (Disney Area)

I was very perturbed not to see, hear or read anything about the Festival in and on any of the media here in Orlando.  What happened?  You would think that the make a wish foundation would have done something.
Ed
6944
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:57 PM
Subject: [DML] Celebration Exotic Car Festival April 28-30 (Disney Area)


> Hello!
> The 3rd Annual Celebration Exotic Car Festival to benefit Make-A-Wish 
> is coming up the weekend of April 28-30 at Celebration, FL (Disney
> area.) Registrations are far ahead of last year. We have expanded the 
> concours field this year and are expecting 200 cars. Last years event 
> featured 23 DeLoreans- lets increase that for 2006!
>
> In addition to the many exotics already registered, we have confirmed 
> the following:
> -FXX
> -MC-12
> -First US delivery Bugatti Veyron
> -McLaren F1
> -Porsche GT1
> -Mercedes CLK-GTR
> -LeMans winning Cadillac LMP
> -Prototype Ford GT convertible
> -Prototype Paxton supercharged Shelby GT350 -A showing of Ferrari's 
> Fantastic Four
>
> AND
>
> The OCC Make-A-Wish chopper, built on the television show American 
> Chopper!
>
> The entire Celebration Hotel is reserved for our event at substantial 
> discount rates. The hotel has less than 40 rooms left, so please make 
> your reservations right away by calling the hotel at 407-566-6000 and 
> mentioning the car show.
>
> Celebration is ideal for a concours, set around a waterfront 
> boardwalk, with 6 sidewalk cafes, a theatre, shops, and the hotel 
> right there. This event is 100% charity, with all funds donated to 
> Make-A-Wish. Last year, $50,000 was donated. This year it will be over 
> $100,000! Bring your car, have some fun, and help the children at 
> Make-A-Wish!
>
> Register easily on-line now at:
> http://65.212.173.228/netsavy/fca/ev...ebration_1.htm
>
> Jeff Ippoliti
> DMC #20022
> www.celebrationexoticcars.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 00:02:46 EDT
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Illinois Emission Testing

   I just finished taking my Delorean in for Illinois emissions testing today and found out some interesting information. I was talking with the test center manager about our cars turning 25 years old and was asking him if there was any sort of exemption in Illinois for older cars. He informed me that we no longer have a problem because the state just passed a new emissions law that changed the requirements for testing. He said the new law, which would go into effect next year, will only require OBD cars 1996 and newer to be tested. He said the state finally figured out the cost of dyno testing cars far outweighed the benefits they were getting. So starting next year they will only be testing cars that they can just plug into the dash OBD connection and download info from.
   Oh, and my BAE single turbo D passed the Illinois dyno emission test for the sixth (and last) time with no problems. Which shows you can make power and keep it clean at the same time.

   Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 22:01:01 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: RE: Speaker replacement

Correct...I was told that AFTER I did the project.  ;) 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Marc Levy
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 4:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Speaker replacement

Best to use wood that is better for acoustics.

MDF is popular for speakers..  But dont use Plywood.


--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:

> I did this a few years ago..here are some photos on how I did it:


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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 06:55:13 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Speaker replacement

Here is a full article to go along with the pictures on how I replaced front
and rear speakers and the radio.

http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/install.doc


Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Kevin Abato
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 2:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Speaker replacement

I did this a few years ago..here are some photos on how I did it:

http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/ 

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Gekko West Coast Base
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 11:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Speaker replacement

I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






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Yahoo! Groups Links



 







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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 19:52:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: speakers

I'm going to go ahead and add my own two cents on this
one, as tomorrow will be exactly two weeks since I did
this.  I replaced all my Craig factory speakers and my
1986 KFC-2004 Kenwood cassette player with 3.5"
Blaupunkts in the dash and 4" Audiobahns in the side
panels with a Pioneer DEH-P4700MP  CD/MP3 player.  My
thing about doing something like this is I like things
to look factory, and I like to keep my car from being
a potential theft target as we all know how many times
our windshields/door windows get peered into.

The 3.5" Blaupunkts fit right in.  Someone here
already mentioned a couple "irritations" with this
installation.  Get one of those adjustable flashlights
that can be tilted to any position - I believe they
call them "snake" lights.  Or get a flashlight that
mounts with a strap around your head.  You'll thank
me.  At one point, I was getting my ratchet wrench
ready, and the 3.5" speaker itself fell out of ths
speaker mount and hit me right in the jaw; it hurt
like all get out.  For putting the 7mm mounting nuts
back in, you'll want to get some box tape (easily
tearable kind of tape), and put just a small piece on
a corner of the ratchet bit used.  The idea is to keep
the speaker magnet from yanking the nut right out of
the bit, and it will believe me.  Also, stuff the bit
with tape to the point that the nut sits "flush" in
the ratchet; you'll want the nut to be as flush as
possible with the bit - trust me.  The original dash
does NOT give you much room to work with, so any
advantage is worth taking.  Make sure you get
flush/flat speakers.  If you tighten your speakers up
too much and they have a tweeter that protrudes even
just a tiny bit, they can warp the speaker cutouts on
the dash and even - in a worst case scenario - cause
cracking to around the speaker holes.  NOT good.

For the sidewalls, I was lucky and someone had already
"royally screwed" my vinyl sidings up.  The Craig
4x10's were still in there, wtf did they cut the
sidewalls for..?  Sigh.  Anyhoo, The speaker
replacement itself is easy, but the sidepanels can be
tricky to get back on.  If you gently pull and it
doesn't come off - STOP.  Look around for hidden
bolts, do not force things to come off if they seem
bolted down still - they probably are.  I have heard
you can go up to even 5.25" round speakers in the
sidewalls, but I have not tried this.  For tweeters,
you could mount them directly next to the sidewall
speakers inside the sidewall panel.  I know of a
friend in town that has done this, and I was very
impressed with the installation.  He had to fabricate
his own mount, but it was well done.

UPGRADE the radio.  Don't do all this and use the
Craig; you're just tantalizing yourself.  Get
something nice and modern - like a MP3/CD player.  I
remember the difference between a CD and a CD/MP3
player was like $20 and I almost didn't pay it.  Two
weeks now, I'd have payed $50-$100 more if I had to. 
My Pioneer CD/MP3 player is probably the single best
purchase I've made to enjoy the drive more.  When DCS
2006 comes up, all I'll need is at most - 2 CDs of
mp3s.  So wonderful.

I re-wired everything.  I don't know about some of
you, but I wasn't trusting 25 year old wires to get
the job done.  I wanted fresh wiring that is probably
better built, more heat resistant, and carries the
current better.  I just yanked all the old wiring out,
and rerouted all my new wiring through the appropriate
areas underneath the "wooden planks" behind both the
driver and passenger, and then routed it down the
middle of the center console.  Give yourself plenty of
slack, do NOT make the wiring tight before
everything's back together.  A foot or two is well
worth saving yourself the hassle of having to do the
whole job over.  Now that I think about it, test to
make sure all 4 speakers work before you put
everything back together on them too.  you'll thank me
(again) =P.

Lastly, here are a couple links for all this stuff:

On Luke's DeLorean page, Luke's job is here:
http://tinyurl.com/qy995

On his page as well is Travis Graham's procedure is
here:http://tinyurl.com/pme3z

And then my own job is on these two links - first is
all the equipment I used including speaker model #'s
and my Pioneer CD/MP3 player model number all here:
http://tinyurl.com/pq2fe

And then the pictures of my installation from
beginning to end are here:
http://tinyurl.com/o8xe4

PLEASE NOTE, at the time of this writeup - Photobucket
is being weird.  The pictures normally do load, maybe
they're updating their website or something. 
Hopefully, the pictures will be again viewable soon. 
Take a look at the topics anyways, I did type out all
the model numbers for the speakers and headunit.  You
can always Google those...

For excellent pricing on any of these components or
any others, I highly recommend
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/ .  I haven't even done
any business with them yet, but they have alot of
options, plenty of pictures, and user reviews.  Their
prices are very reasonable - my headunit there is $149
with free shipping, and it is worth every penny.  My
headunit at BestBuy/CircuitCity is easily $180+, and
its LAST year's model.

Oh, for my pages, you'll have to become a member of
the forum to access them.  If I remember correctly,
there isn't even a "confirmation" email, so just take
5 minutes, throw in some info, and check out the
pages.  If you're truly interested and want to learn,
5 minutes is a easy price to pay.


Ok, no more witing tonight, my novel is written =P.

Jeremiah

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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:21:48 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: speakers

Hi

4" wont fit on the exisitng mounting studs. They will only fit if 
you fix them underneath to the fibreglass itself with self tappers.

Regards

Mike
#2001--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I couldn't get 4" speakers in up in front and had to go get 3.5"...
> slight changes to the dash?
> 
> Tom
> #10902
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf
> Of David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 10:42 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: speakers
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
>  
> Anything  can be done, it is a matter of how much work you want to 
do.
> 4" will fit right in,
>










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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 15:47:00 -0000
From: "blknight05" <blknight05_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!

hi i fitted this kit from delorean northwest {wings b cool}and double 
checked everything the car is totaly standard with no modifications 
from new,{no ones mest with the wiring  until now}the car is an 83,
         i used the new relays as well as the post type  circuit 
breakers,i followed and double checked the instructions includig 
soldering all the wires to ring conectors,so no wires are in the 
incorrect position,{im wondering if thers a typo in the instructions 
maybe}
        when i went to connect the batery{without key in the ignition} 
the fans fire up on the rad,but the worst thing was the black {little 
wire linking all the relays up got hot and started to melt,so i 
quickly took the battery off{luckily no damage apart from that wire,so 
i can repair it}
          can anyone please help as to what might be amiss,as im 
totaly stuck on this {i used to be an electrician}but not on cars,


       








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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 15:34:03 -0000
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Keeping it Clean while adding power (and Emission Testing)

Ahh, if only Texas legislators were so enlightened. We have the 25
year exemption here, meaning that 81 and older no longer require
emissions testing. And, as of Jan 1, 2007, the 82's are exempt.

Regarding your turbo setup and keeping it clean, are you running the
stock catalytic converter?

James

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wingd2_at_dml_... wrote:

(SNIP)
>    Oh, and my BAE single turbo D passed the Illinois dyno emission
test for 
> the sixth (and last) time with no problems. Which shows you can make
power and 
> keep it clean at the same time.
> 
>    Marty
>







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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:39:26 -0400
From: "Pasquale Lombardi" <pasquale.nj_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: *** Kevin *** Speaker replacement

Hello Kevin,
I saw the inspection sticker on your car in the photos.
Are you in NJ?
Great instructions & photos.
Thanks,
Pat in Morris County, NJ
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 6:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Speaker replacement


Here is a full article to go along with the pictures on how I replaced front
and rear speakers and the radio.

http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/install.doc


Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Kevin Abato
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 2:01 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Speaker replacement

I did this a few years ago..here are some photos on how I did it:

http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Gekko West Coast Base
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 11:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Speaker replacement

I have read some of the tech notes on replacing the OEM rear speakers and to
be honest, I want to avoid cutting through sealer, etc. if at all possible.
Does anyone make a replacement box or board (that doesn't take up all of
that luggage space) that has a speaker(s) replacement built in?  I'm not
looking for a boom box window rattler type of system.  Just a decent quality
speaker set that can be wired in en lieu of the blown originals.

Thanks for your help.

Craig Werner
07181






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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 16:44:15 -0000
From: "dadoc2791" <gekko_at_dml_flex.com>
Subject: Re: speakers - Thanks

Thanks to all for the great advice on speaker replacement.

Craig 
7181







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:25:08 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!

Hello everyone,



I decided to grow some balls and take off my manifold in preparation 
for replacing the slave cylinder. To my complete delight all four of 
the bolts that hold the Y pipe came out without breaking! I was scared 
at first because they would not budge. I just applied increasing 
torque in between rests so that the bolts could cool down. Eventually 
they all popped loose! I am going to replace the hoses under the 
intake, replace the Y pipe bolts with stainless ones, clean the unholy 
dirty mess, and possibly paint (?) the valley before bolting the whole 
thing back together. I am also replacing my accumulator and related 
hoses at the same time. My car is nearing mechanical godliness. :) 
Here are my questions:

Should I pain the valley, or just clean it out?

Is the plastic part of the vacuum switch supposed to spin (move) 
freely against its base? 

I noticed carbon deposits on my intake valves. Could this be from the 
previous owner who drove the car on premium for three years or from 
some other issue?

Nathan
2277











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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 19:27:55 +0100
From: "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Re: speakers - Thanks

Likewise, same here too, thanks

Chris H
Vin 5255

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
dadoc2791
Sent: 29 April 2006 17:44
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: speakers - Thanks

Thanks to all for the great advice on speaker replacement.

Craig 
7181







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:01:05 -0700
From: Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com>
Subject: Seat belt won't extend

My '82 with 69k sat for 13 years untouched.  Since purchase the 
seatbelts have always been slow to retract - but this AM the passenger 
belt won't  extend.  It is 90% retracted (as much as it has ever been) 
but will not extend.

Any tips or tricks for a fast fix or for dreaded replacement?

Tom
10902





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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 20:21:18 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..

How did you guys get it spotless??

Like an idiot I forgot to completely drain the engine so when I 
removed the Y pipe a ton of coolant created a lake in the valley 
mixing with 25 years worth of dirt creating 25 years worth of mud. I 
got most of it out with paper towels but it is still VERY dirty, Me no 
like. 

On another note; I found tons of stuff in the valley. I felt like an 
archeologist. I unearthed (literally) 10 copper washers, two hex bolts 
(like the ones that hold the idle speed motor to the manifold), three 
11 mm bolts, 3 steel washers, a scrap piece of stainless steel (from 
the factory no doubt), 3 O rings, not to mention that all the casting 
crevices were completely filled with dirt. 

Nathan
2277








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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 14:01:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Erik Geerdink <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Lambo Gallardo owner gawks at Delorean..

Hello,
  I was filling up the Delorean today at the gas station when a bright yellow Lamborgini Gallardo pulled in next to me.  He went straight for the Delorean and started asking a bunch of questions about it.  He told me how he's always loved the Delorean and that after 25 years the car still looks great.  After awhile I couldn't take it anymore and had to ask him if I could take a peak at his Lambo.  Such a nice car!!!
  Unfortunately i didn't have my camera with me, it would have made for a nice picture.  
   
  Erik
  04512
   

		
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:34:21 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!

 
 
I'm no metallurgist but I am pretty sure that stainless bolts going into  
aluminum is also a bad idea.  I think there's something about the way  the two 
metals react, surely someone on here can tell you.  I just ordered  new bolts 
from Grady when I did this a few years ago, have never had a problem  since.  
 
Andy 
 
 
In a message dated 4/29/2006 4:22:06 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

Eventually 
they all popped loose! I am going to replace the hoses  under the 
intake, replace the Y pipe bolts with stainless ones, clean the  unholy 



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:36:36 -0400
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!

Nathan:

Glad to hear you're growing a pair  :-)  When I went through the trouble of 
taking the intake manifold off I replaced and clean/painted almost 
everything.  I would definitely take the time to thoroughly clean and paint 
the valley.  I think I spent 2-3 days just cleaning down there so the paint 
would stick.  I then decided to use POR-15 black to paint.  I followed it's 
instructions about using their Marine Clean product as well as the Metal 
Ready surface preparer.  I would at very least use the Metal Ready as it 
will etch the surface to prepare it for the actual paint.  POR-15 is strong 
stuff, but preparation is 95% of the job.  I've got a few pictures on my 
little website that I took while doing it...

http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732/repairs/engine/eng-seals/index.htm
or
http://tinyurl.com/fgwyz

Also, be sure to use A LOT of anti-seize on any bolts you put back in, 
especially if you decide to replace those Y-Pipe bolts with stainless 
equivalents.  The aluminum and stainless will fuse over time if you don't. 
You might also decide to get really ambitious and paint the intake manifold, 
valve covers, etc. while you're in there.  I did that too, at a later time, 
still haven't had a chance to put them back on the car, though.

http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732/repairs/engine/engine-paint/index.htm
or
http://tinyurl.com/oksoz

I can't give you a definite answer as to the vacuum switch.  I can tell you 
that mine does not spin, so I would be weary of reusing it in your case. 
They are not that expensive and considering what you would have to go 
through to replace it in the future, you might as well do it now.

When's the last time the water pump was replaced?  That's another one of 
those while you're in there jobs.  Murphy's Law seems to hover around our 
cars.

Have fun!

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: [DML] Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!


> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> I decided to grow some balls and take off my manifold in preparation
> for replacing the slave cylinder. To my complete delight all four of
> the bolts that hold the Y pipe came out without breaking! I was scared
> at first because they would not budge. I just applied increasing
> torque in between rests so that the bolts could cool down. Eventually
> they all popped loose! I am going to replace the hoses under the
> intake, replace the Y pipe bolts with stainless ones, clean the unholy
> dirty mess, and possibly paint (?) the valley before bolting the whole
> thing back together. I am also replacing my accumulator and related
> hoses at the same time. My car is nearing mechanical godliness. :)
> Here are my questions:
>
> Should I pain the valley, or just clean it out?
>
> Is the plastic part of the vacuum switch supposed to spin (move)
> freely against its base?
>
> I noticed carbon deposits on my intake valves. Could this be from the
> previous owner who drove the car on premium for three years or from
> some other issue?
>
> Nathan
> 2277 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 19:00:41 -0400
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..

Nathan:

A few things I needed when doing this were: time, patience, long flat-head 
screwdriver, time, shop-vac, garden hose, degreaser spray, and time.  Yeah, 
I know I said time three times, it's important.  As far as I know there 
isn't any magic potion you can put in there to get rid of all this stuff, 
it's just a lot of scraping and vacuuming.  Be sure your shop-vac can handle 
water.  Also be sure to really clean out the deep holes in the valley, 
that's where the block problems usually start.

Sounds like you found some good pirate's booty when you opened up the 
valley.  It's a secret little treasure chest down there!

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: [DML] Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..


> How did you guys get it spotless??
>
> Like an idiot I forgot to completely drain the engine so when I
> removed the Y pipe a ton of coolant created a lake in the valley
> mixing with 25 years worth of dirt creating 25 years worth of mud. I
> got most of it out with paper towels but it is still VERY dirty, Me no
> like.
>
> On another note; I found tons of stuff in the valley. I felt like an
> archeologist. I unearthed (literally) 10 copper washers, two hex bolts
> (like the ones that hold the idle speed motor to the manifold), three
> 11 mm bolts, 3 steel washers, a scrap piece of stainless steel (from
> the factory no doubt), 3 O rings, not to mention that all the casting
> crevices were completely filled with dirt.
>
> Nathan
> 2277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 23:53:25 -0000
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!

Thanks for the heads up about the stainless bolts. I just figured it 
would be better than the steel ones which everyone seems to be 
breaking. 


Nathan
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
>  
>  
> I'm no metallurgist but I am pretty sure that stainless bolts 
going into  
> aluminum is also a bad idea.  I think there's something about the 
way  the two 
> metals react, surely someone on here can tell you.  I just 
ordered  new bolts 
> from Grady when I did this a few years ago, have never had a 
problem  since.  
>  
> Andy 
>  
>  
> In a message dated 4/29/2006 4:22:06 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> valleyrat12_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> Eventually 
> they all popped loose! I am going to replace the hoses  under the 
> intake, replace the Y pipe bolts with stainless ones, clean the  
unholy 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Fargo, ND  
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 00:32:50 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Delorean Auto Transmission on Ebay

Getting rid of my old transmission:

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4636085392&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT>

Don't make too much fun of my typo, it says "Automatice"! Whoops.











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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 00:50:14 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!

The y-pipe bolts are 7mm and you will not find 7mm stainless bolts
ANYWHERE.  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Nathan:
> 
> Glad to hear you're growing a pair  :-)  When I went through the
trouble of 
> taking the intake manifold off I replaced and clean/painted almost 
> everything.  I would definitely take the time to thoroughly clean
and paint 
> the valley.  I think I spent 2-3 days just cleaning down there so
the paint 
> would stick.  I then decided to use POR-15 black to paint.  I
followed it's 
> instructions about using their Marine Clean product as well as the
Metal 
> Ready surface preparer.  I would at very least use the Metal Ready
as it 
> will etch the surface to prepare it for the actual paint.  POR-15 is
strong 
> stuff, but preparation is 95% of the job.  I've got a few pictures
on my 
> little website that I took while doing it...
> 
> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732/repairs/engine/eng-seals/index.htm
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/fgwyz
> 
> Also, be sure to use A LOT of anti-seize on any bolts you put back in, 
> especially if you decide to replace those Y-Pipe bolts with stainless 
> equivalents.  The aluminum and stainless will fuse over time if you
don't. 
> You might also decide to get really ambitious and paint the intake
manifold, 
> valve covers, etc. while you're in there.  I did that too, at a
later time, 
> still haven't had a chance to put them back on the car, though.
> 
> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732/repairs/engine/engine-paint/index.htm
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/oksoz
> 
> I can't give you a definite answer as to the vacuum switch.  I can
tell you 
> that mine does not spin, so I would be weary of reusing it in your
case. 
> They are not that expensive and considering what you would have to go 
> through to replace it in the future, you might as well do it now.
> 
> When's the last time the water pump was replaced?  That's another
one of 
> those while you're in there jobs.  Murphy's Law seems to hover
around our 
> cars.
> 
> Have fun!
> 
> Todd Nelson
> 1561, Vermont
> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 2:25 PM
> Subject: [DML] Major preventative maintenance GOING GREAT!
> 
> 
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> >
> >
> > I decided to grow some balls and take off my manifold in preparation
> > for replacing the slave cylinder. To my complete delight all four of
> > the bolts that hold the Y pipe came out without breaking! I was scared
> > at first because they would not budge. I just applied increasing
> > torque in between rests so that the bolts could cool down. Eventually
> > they all popped loose! I am going to replace the hoses under the
> > intake, replace the Y pipe bolts with stainless ones, clean the unholy
> > dirty mess, and possibly paint (?) the valley before bolting the whole
> > thing back together. I am also replacing my accumulator and related
> > hoses at the same time. My car is nearing mechanical godliness. :)
> > Here are my questions:
> >
> > Should I pain the valley, or just clean it out?
> >
> > Is the plastic part of the vacuum switch supposed to spin (move)
> > freely against its base?
> >
> > I noticed carbon deposits on my intake valves. Could this be from the
> > previous owner who drove the car on premium for three years or from
> > some other issue?
> >
> > Nathan
> > 2277
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 00:53:33 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Question for people who have cleaned out the valley..

You could always sandblast/glassbead the area.  That would be one way
to get it spotless.  The first step would be to securely tape up your
intake/spark plug/fuel injector ports, though.  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> How did you guys get it spotless??
> 
> Like an idiot I forgot to completely drain the engine so when I 
> removed the Y pipe a ton of coolant created a lake in the valley 
> mixing with 25 years worth of dirt creating 25 years worth of mud. I 
> got most of it out with paper towels but it is still VERY dirty, Me no 
> like. 
> 
> On another note; I found tons of stuff in the valley. I felt like an 
> archeologist. I unearthed (literally) 10 copper washers, two hex bolts 
> (like the ones that hold the idle speed motor to the manifold), three 
> 11 mm bolts, 3 steel washers, a scrap piece of stainless steel (from 
> the factory no doubt), 3 O rings, not to mention that all the casting 
> crevices were completely filled with dirt. 
> 
> Nathan
> 2277
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 01:14:59 -0000
From: "blknight05" <blknight05_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!

hi i now found the problem,it was a faulty relay,when i pushed the 
relay in one of the legs pushed up into the relay itself touching 
somthing it shouldnt causing my black wire to melt,luckily no other 
wires were melted that were touching it,and now i pushed the relay on 
without the cover so i can make sure the leg stays where it should 
do,now everything works as it should on the cooling system{fans work 
as they should}both on there own relay,
           anyways iv noticed that when i turn the air con on the mode 
switch the clutch on the pump doesnt engage nor do the fans on the rad 
come on
      anyone have any ideas???







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 01:50:32 -0000
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Celebration Car Show Pictures

For those at today's event, when the Makes & Model magazine girl posed 
for some pictures at the show, it looked like a sea of paparazzi with 
camera phones snapping pics of Brad and Angelina.  I of course, being 
a good Delorean owner, was prepared with my regular camera of high 
quality resolution, and have posted the pics in the 
folder "Celebration 4/29/06".  My car is the first and last picture.  
Of course, being the smooth guy that I am, after our picture was taken 
in the car, I cooly exited the vehicle, caught my flip flop on the 
door sill carpet, and almost ended up face first in the pavement.  I 
can only hope it wasn't noticed :)







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 03:47:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: i fitted the wings b cool update kit desighned by harold mcelraft,and need help!

I hate it that my name is associated with this as I have not seen a 
DPNW kit so, I have no idea if the basic circuit is what I 
originally designed. Now that you know I have no affiliation with 
the kit I will make a comment.

You have created a direct short with an incorrect relay (unlikely in 
my opinion - just based on my experience with DPNW) or, you have the 
wires connected incorrectly by placement or by splice (highly likely 
in my opinion).

The concept of my design was to create identical circuits for each 
fan. I have uploaded a diagram of my original design in "files" 
under "DeLorean AC Mod.pdf". This is for your review and 
enlightenment only - use at your own risk. My DeLorean uses a single 
circuit breaker (15 amp heavy duty - post type) for each fan - not 
the single one shown on the diagram.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "blknight05" <blknight05_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> hi i fitted this kit from delorean northwest {wings b cool}and 
double 
> checked everything the car is totaly standard with no 
modifications 
> from new,{no ones mest with the wiring  until now}the car is an 83,
>          i used the new relays as well as the post type  circuit 
> breakers,i followed and double checked the instructions includig 
> soldering all the wires to ring conectors,so no wires are in the 
> incorrect position,{im wondering if thers a typo in the 
instructions 
> maybe}
>         when i went to connect the batery{without key in the 
ignition} 
> the fans fire up on the rad,but the worst thing was the black 
{little 
> wire linking all the relays up got hot and started to melt,so i 
> quickly took the battery off{luckily no damage apart from that 
wire,so 
> i can repair it}
>           can anyone please help as to what might be amiss,as im 
> totaly stuck on this {i used to be an electrician}but not on cars,
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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