Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3226

There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Marc Levy's "Scream Machine"
From: Marc Levy <>

2. Re: "Here's what I did." - Stainless Steel Regraining
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

3. Re: speedo cable lube
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>


5. Re: Re: Marc Levy's "Scream Machine"
From: Marc Levy <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 06:08:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: Re: Re: Marc Levy's "Scream Machine"

Sure.. :)

Maybe we will get some track time in Chicago. 

Any word on that effort??  I think Bob B was working on it.

--- twinenginedmc12
<> wrote:

> Wanna race?  :)
> Rick Gendreau

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 14:06:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: "Here's what I did." - Stainless Steel Regraining

Another way to go (but less portable) is the flexible shaft and
expander wheel from Eastwood. On the expander wheel you can put belts
of Scotch Brite or sandpaper. For power you can hook up a small
fractional horsepower electric motor with a speed control. A lot
lighter in the hands, cooler running, and easier to work around the
car. You put the motor on a dolly so it follows you as you move. No
matter what you use for power it will all come back to experience and
technique. That takes a lot of time to develop and get right if you
want to be able to do work like Chris N. There are no shortcuts. Just
getting the right tools is only a small part of the whole process.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-- In, "captain_hydrogen"
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_...> wrote:
> First, I would like to apologize for not posting this a few months 
> ago, after the de-paneling event at my house. I have been so busy 
> that I haven't done much of anything DeLorean wise. My write-up was 
> going to be much more eloquent, but time to write is rare. So here is 
> the stripped-down cliff notes version of what I had originally 


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 14:00:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: speedo cable lube

Generally when you do the angle drive you do the whole front end. To
do the whole front end it is a lot easier if you lift the car up. If
you lift the car up it is easier to do the front end if you remove the
tires. As you can see I like to make things easier. Lifting the car
and pulling the wheels off also allows you a much better view of the
components. You can check the brake pads, wiring, coolant hoses brake
and clutch cylinders, steering rack, etc. I also like to clean things
underneath while I am there. All of this is much harder to do (if not
impossible) without at least lifting the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_...> wrote:
> I was able to lube the angle drive with the wheels on the ground by 
> turning the steering wheel hard right and going at it from the rear. 
> Seemed to disconnect, flip over, and reattach fine. Only took a 


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 10:29:37 EDT

I agree with Dave T.  It's the shift computer that tells the tranny what gear 
to be in.  You may want to add the solenoid indicator lights that display 
what the computer is telling the transmission.  

When I replaced my computer I moved it into it's own small box on the 
driver's side wall of the engine compartment as I did not want to have to play with 
it under the car.  As Dave T said I also had problems with the little ribbon 
cable that connects the two circuit boards.  It it very stiff and fragile.  I 
just replaced it with individual flexible wires.

I also had a similar temerature / shift problems but mine wouldn't shift into 
third until it warmed up. The added solenoid/shift lights confirmed that it 
was the computer and I was able to make a test generator with a 9 volt battery 
and a 10 turn 100K potentiometer.  With that connected to the input of the 
computer and the solenoid lights on the output I was able to test the system 
without driving the car.  I found that slightly flexing the individual circuit 
boards would affect the shift points indicating bad solder joints. I also noted 
that just touching the boards with my fingers would also affect the shifts so I 
ended up wearing latex gloves.  I was not able to trace the exact bad joints 
so I resoldered most of them and that fixed the problem.

If you need more info don't hesitate to contact me.

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 06:01:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <>
Subject: Re: Re: Marc Levy's "Scream Machine"

The VQ35 block is used in a large number of
Nissan/Infinity cars.  The donor for my project was
probably an Altima or Maxima (can't tell for sure, the
setups are similar)...  But it is more impressive to
say "350Z" motor than "Altima" motor.  :)

The FWD intake is too high, so I am looking to replace
it with a 350Z or G35 intake which will bring the HP
up a bit (it flows better), and give me the clearance
to put the engine cover back on...  Then can I call it
a 350Z motor?  ;)

Big problem was getting the engine to run without the
rest of the car.  The VQ35 uses a "drive by wire"
system, where even the throttle body is controlled by
the ECU (when you push the pedal, you are moving a
variable resistor, not pulling a cable).  There was
one version of the VQ35 in a pathfinder that did NOT
use this system, IIRC 2001 or 2002.  However, I was
unable to find that engine for a reasonable price.

To get the engine to run, I had to go with a 1996 ECU.
 The process is well documented among the Maxima crowd
because they like to put the VQ35 in their older
(95-2001) Maximas as a performance improvement.  The
process requires that the entire front of the VQ35
engine be swapped with a VQ30.  The down side is, you
loose the variable cam features but this is the most
cost effective way to get the engine to run.

The VQ30 ECU (1996, in my case) is not as fussy as the
2002+ ECU's, so it will run with a minimal number of
sensors.  I am using the 2 crank sensors (front and
back), the cam phase sensor (just one, for the VQ30),
the O2 sensors, MAF, TP, and a few others that I cant
recall right now.

Of course, I had to convert the throttle body to use a
regular cable instead of the stepper motor.  I also
added the IAB from the VQ30 to this setup, although I
was able to get the engine running without it.

--- Dave Swingle <> wrote:

> I'm trying to recall  - is that a real 350Z engine
> or an Altima 3.5? 
> How much of a challenge was fooling the engine
> (electronics) into 
> thinking there was still a Nissan around it? 
> Dave S

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