From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 2:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3245

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?
From: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com

2. Re: R134a retrofit
From: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com

3. Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?
From: "sweitzel_2000" sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com

4. Re: Grand Theft Auto DMC giveaway
From: "Tiffany Olejnik" bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net

5. Re: AC compressor oil where does it go?
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

6. Re: Need HELP!!! Odd Idle question...traveling and possibly stuck?!
From: "Michael Cole" stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com

7. Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems
From: "Lawrence Lormand" lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net

8. AW: [DML] Re: Need HELP!!! Odd Idle question...traveling and possib
From: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de

9. Re: R134a retrofit
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

10. Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?
From: "Tiffany Olejnik" bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net

11. seat belt buzzer
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems
From: "Ed B." mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net

13. Michigan Spring Meet II 5/20/06 9 am till?, 5/18/2006, 9:00 am
From: "dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com" dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

14. Re: Need HELP!!! Odd Idle question...traveling and possibly stuck?!
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

15. What went wrong?
From: "dmcjosh85" dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com

16. Re: AC compressor oil where does it go?
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

17. Re: DeLorean Mac Mini Podcast - Volume 2
From: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com

18. re-fitting rear speaker panels
From: "Chris Hawes" chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk

19. Re: What went wrong?
From: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com

20. Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems
From: "Joey Morgan" jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. DMCNE Caravan to DCS - ideas
From: "Hank" heskin_at_dml_gmail.com

22. Re: What went wrong?
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. Re: What went wrong?
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

24. Re: re-fitting rear speaker panels
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

25. Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?
From: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com



Message 1
From: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com
Date: Mon May 15, 2006 0:50pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?

There are some pics here that I took when I met Carl, the owner of the 3rd Gold D' for the first time:
http://www.dmctalk.com/showthread.php?
t=1768&highlight=special+delorean+meeting

Also, we have some pics on the DMCMD group here on Yahoo.  The last gold DeLorean, VIN: 20105, is still for sale for $250,000 if you are interested, email me (jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com).

Matt
VIN: 2953
Frostburg, MD

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" <Nick_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can download some please?
> 
> What happend to that 3rd Gold De Lorean for sale?
> 
> Thanks Guys...
> 
> Nick
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message 2 
    From: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 1:25pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: R134a retrofit

On 5/15/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
>
> Before recharging a dead system with ANYTHING a good shop will find 
> and repair any leaks. In fact it is the law.


Out of curiousity, exactly how do you test for leaks without charging the system? I know making sure the system holds a vacuum is part of it, however the 14.7psi pressure difference between a vacuum and atmospheric is alot easier to hold than the 115 psi (minimum, it will likly be alot higher) pressure difference that will be between the high side of the system and atmospheric. So a system that holds a vacuum could still leak in use.

I'd really like to know the answer to this because i'll have to cross this bridge sometime myself and any trick to let me test for leaks without wasting freon will be greatly appreciated. Especially since I plan to use R12.

Chris
VIN #3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 3 
    From: "sweitzel_2000" sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:47pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?

Is "Carl" who currently owns 20105 the original winner of that car? As I  understand it, 20105 was the grand prize of some kind of sweepstakes involving the BigLots! chain of stores.








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Message 4 
    From: "Tiffany Olejnik" bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:47pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Grand Theft Auto DMC giveaway

I was at a local import parts store in Westminster, MD and I had driven the Delorean there and the guy at the counter commented about the car. He said he knew a guy in PA that won a Delorean from a contest for 'some video game that you steal cars.' This was a while ago and I don't think he knew the owners name. He also said he knew a guy that had 20 Deloreans in his garage. Heh...

Tiffany
Vin#3691

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I remember back when the video game Grand Theft Auto: Vice City (set 
> in the 80's, styled off of Miami Vice) was coming out, Game Stop was 
> raffling off a DeLorean as a promo for the game's release.
> 
> I found this old link to the giveaway:
> 
> http://www.gamestop.com/gs/gta3giveaway/sweepstakes.asp?cookie%
> 5Ftest=1&
> 
> Does anyone know what ever happened to this car?  Who won it?  Where 
> is it now?  Is the owner on the list?  Ect.?
> 
> I'm just curious.   
> 
> Corey
> 2423
>










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Message 5 
    From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:47pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: AC compressor oil where does it go?

OK, I got a little bit out but not very much. I will infact replace most of my AC myself but I would like to get what I have running so that I can have AC while I am saving up. The compressor looks brand new, like the PO replaced it. It is possible he replaced it before he was sent to prison so perhaps the system has not been charged since??

At any rate do I just pour 8 oz into the back of the compressor intake?

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> If, in fact, there is NO oil in the compressor it would be a sign
that
> the system is very leaky, has been recharged many times, and all of 
> the oil was carried out from the leaks and never replaced. In such
a
> case putting oil into the compressor won't matter much, it has run
too
> long without proper lubrication. You can expect it to fail soon.
> Adding oil may keep it going a little longer but the best thing
wouild
> be to replace it now so it won't contaminate the system when it
burns
> up. Cleaning up a system after a burn-out is never good if you can 
> avoid it. Try holding the compressor upside-down and turning the 
> clutch. You should get some oil out. If it is DRY just replace it
now.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_>
> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > Hello all,
> > 
> > I have removed my compressor just to get all the oil out of it. 
I 
> > removed the drain plug, turned it upside down and nothing came
out! 
> > Weird. So now how do I add more oil? Does it all go through the
drain 
> > plug? How much do I put in?
> > 
> > Nathan
> >
>









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Message 6 
    From: "Michael Cole" stainless_delorean_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:47pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Need HELP!!!  Odd Idle question...traveling and possibly stuck?!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> You must make sure the arm for the throttle returns positively to the 
> idle position. It should not have to be pushed and there should be no 
> rough spots or drag. Another possability is play in the ends of the 
> quadrant link. It is the small rod that connects the throttle spool to 
> the throttle arm. The throttle arm has to return all the way to idle 
> to trip the micro switch. You could have a sticky throttle cable.
> Lubricate as per the throttle recall. 


The arm for the throttle has very smooth motion, no binding, and no dragging whatsoever.  It opens fully and closes fully just as before.
 I also checked the quadrant link, no play causing any movement at all.

When I activate the throttle, the arm is perfectly responsive. 

The throttle cable is lubricated and routed routed properly.  When activated, the throttle cable is moving freely with no binding, no grabbing whatsoever.  It is also adjusted to proper length, so there is no issue with that.


>Check that the floor mat or the
> carpet is not interfering with the throttle pedal. Another check is  
>that when you step all the way down on the accelerator (with the motor
> off!) the throttle spool hits the WOT switch. Check that the throttle  
>cable is not severly bent and is routed correctly. You said you had  
>the top of the engine all apart so you could have incorrectly routed  
>the cable. Check that the throttle spool is moving smoothly. Take it  
>apart and clean, lubricate, and reassemble.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757


Inside the cabin of the car, checked placement of carpet, throttle cable, and pedal, all are ok.  Tested the throttle at WOT, and yes it does make full contact with the WOT switch.  Then checked WOT switch to make sure there was no problems with it since it was brand new, and it tested fine with the meter.  We went ahead and checked to make sure the trottle spool is working properly, so took your advice and yes it is properly assembled, cleaned and functioning properly.


Here is another example of what she's doing:  At certain times, even sitting in the yard after driving the car for 2 hours, car running in neutral, testing the idle, it seems normal.  Even while just standing there standing at the engine, the car decides to rev itself up and hold at around 3k rpms. It actually held there for about 15 to 20 seconds and then returned to normal.  Sometimes it does it for longer.  
I stopped off at 7-11 for a slurpee and the car was fine, but kinda parked at an upward angle.  Got back into the car, started it, and it was at 3k rpms for the entire ride home. When I parked the car and got out, the car idled there for about a minute more and went back to normal... then it decided to rev back up for 10 seconds and went back to normal.

I can be no where near the accelerator, the throttle, etc and it will just rev.  I checked to make sure proper contact with the micro switch per your instructions in an older thread, David, and it is definitely making proper contact.

I was given instructions on how to jump the computer, and will probably go that route next.  There is also an opportunity to put another speed motor on the car for a week to see if the problem re-occurs.  So if anyone knows of other areas i should be paying attention to, please let me know.  I am still proof-reading older posts to get all the info i can on this.


Mike Cole for Mike Hackey










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Message 7 
    From: "Lawrence Lormand" lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:48pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems

Dale,
I was told this never happened before by the maker, I've experienced the same problem & was told it isn't the fan fix unit from Hervey, I even sent it back to him & he said he couldn't find a problem so when mine stayed on I hit the rear shelf & it would stop, but when it melted the main lead to the battery while I was driving, I threw the damn thing in the trash, cost me a rare left dark grey carpet also from the acid lead I just replaced the carpeting to make the car look good to. first my alternator catches fire, then My fan fix, spend the dough & get melt downs for a fix. end up with wire fixes. 
Should make my own & give them away what a guarantee Lawrence


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> The other day after driving 4984, the cooling fans were stuck on.
> This has happened before, and I've alleviated it by unplugging the fan 
> fix module.  Sometimes they turn off on there own.
> I went into the house for a little bit.  When I came out they were 
> still on. I also had the fan fix module from Special-T.  The fuses
on 
> it were quite hot.  One was melted. I don't believe that initially
it 
> was due to the fan fix module, I just think it got too hot with
them 
> sitting there running.  Is there another relay that sticks or 
> something that causes these to stick on?  Any ideas?
> 
> Dale Funk
> #4984
> #941
>









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Message 8 
    From: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:48pm(PDT)
Subject: AW: [DML] Re: Need HELP!!!  Odd Idle question...traveling and possib


This sounds like a bad contact, bad wire or defective temperature sensor
somwehere. Would be intersting what resistance you can
measure when idle is that high.

Elvis



Yes.  Microswitch is fine, probed it, no problems.

UPDATE:

While frustrated, we pulled out the manual and did some reading on the
idle speed motor.  When the car's valley was cleaned and redone, the
speed motor was installed backwards.  So i went ahead and just
corrected that problem.

Now the car was warmed up, and idle was set properly.  Took the car
out for a test drive.  For the first half hour of the drive, the car
operates 100 percent normal... idle is normal.  Then... when slowing
down, the idle suddenly jumped a couple hundred rpms, and then settled
down again.  Odd i thought, but just kept watching.  Got on the
highway, all ok.  Went to go downshift for an offramp, the car is back
up at 3krpms!
Pulled over, couldnt get the car back to idle normally.

Started to drive back home, back on the highway, every time i clutch,
the engine keeps hovering around 3k rpms.  Make the turn off the off
ramp and over some railroad tracks...idle goes back to normal!!! the
last 7 minutes of the drive are normal.  Pull into the yard, rev the
car to 3k and hold for about 10 seconds, the car is FINE...no surging,
no rough idle...nothing.  Decide to keep her parked and unplug the
battery for the night.

Start car this morning, all 100% normal.  Drive car for about 3 hours
in city traffic, no highway...normal except a few times the idle
surges about 400 rpms and then returns... usually when clutching...did
this about 4 to 7 times.  Then, when coasting, if you go over a bump
in the road like a rail road crossing, the idle will surge once again.



Mike Hackey









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Message 9 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:48pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: R134a retrofit

It's easy! You fill the system with nitrogen to 200 psi. It is rather
difficult to test for leaks with a vacuum. In fact all you can tell
that way is that the system is leaky, you cannot actually FIND leaks
that way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Murley" <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On 5/15/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > Before recharging a dead system with ANYTHING a good shop will find
> > and repair any leaks. In fact it is the law.
> 
> 
> Out of curiousity, exactly how do you test for leaks without
charging the
> system? I know making sure the system holds a vacuum is part of it,
however
> the 14.7psi pressure difference between a vacuum and atmospheric is alot
> easier to hold than the 115 psi (minimum, it will likly be alot higher)
> pressure difference that will be between the high side of the system and
> 








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Message 10 
    From: "Tiffany Olejnik" bck2thefuture88_at_dml_netscape.net
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 6:50pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?

I have some photos on my website www.thinkstainless.com under the photos section.

Feel free to use the photos for whatever you want :)

Tiffany
Vin#3691

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" <Nick_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can download some please?
> 
> What happend to that 3rd Gold De Lorean for sale?
> 
> Thanks Guys...
> 
> Nick
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









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Message 11 
    From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Mon May 15, 2006 7:40pm(PDT) 
Subject: seat belt buzzer

Hey group,
 
My seat belt buzzer is disconnected at the door switch (and both spades are  
insulated and not touching) yet it is still receiving some random power at  
times. It kinda chirps and sounds really sick, very quietly, even with the key  
out.  I only spent a couple of minutes trying to find the cause but then it  
quit.  After a short drive, it came back on.  Any ideas?
 
I don't use the buzzer either - what do I have to do to REALLY shut it  up?
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message 12 
    From: "Ed B." mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 5:37am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems

When I got my Fan-Fix x2 module from Special-T, I found that the fans 
came on intermittently with jolts in the car, sometimes staying 'stuck' 
on.  I verified with hitting the shelf and it would sometimes turn the 
fans on and/or off.  I further confirmed this by physically 'shaking' 
the Fan-Fix  Box and noting that the fans would sometimes come on and/or 
off as well.

I opened up the box/case and saw that things are really quite tight in 
there, and that one of the relays had come un-glued from the case 
(they're just hot-glued in place), causing stress on it's attached 
components' leads, creating a short that would turn on the fan.  I 
carefully re-glued the relay and realized that still, some component 
leads were almost touching eachother.  I have an electrical background 
so I figured no big deal, and I inserted vinyl tape insulation between 
any leads I thought looked suspect, as well as SMT component epoxy to 
keep things in place so the problem would not recur, and it hasn't.

The unit is a great idea, but I have to say that it would benefit from a 
slightly larger enclosure and a little more attention to the routing and 
placement of the components.  Having said that, these are hand-made 
units, so I guess they're not all 'perfect.  John et al at Special-T are 
top-notch, so I'm sure they'd gladly exchange/fix any such modules.

- ed

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V


Lawrence Lormand wrote:
> Dale,
> I was told this never happened before by the maker, I've experienced 
> the same problem & was told it isn't the fan fix unit from Hervey, I 
> even sent it back to him & he said he couldn't find a problem so 
> when mine stayed on I hit the rear shelf & it would stop, but when 
> it melted the main lead to the battery while I was driving, I threw 
> the damn thing in the trash, cost me a rare left dark grey carpet 
> also from the acid lead I just replaced the carpeting to make the 
> car look good to. first my alternator catches fire, then My fan fix, 
> spend the dough & get melt downs for a fix. end up with wire fixes. 
> Should make my own & give them away what a guarantee
> Lawrence
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
>   
>> The other day after driving 4984, the cooling fans were stuck on.
>> This has happened before, and I've alleviated it by unplugging the
>> fan fix module.  Sometimes they turn off on there own.
>> I went into the house for a little bit.  When I came out they were 
>> still on. I also had the fan fix module from Special-T.  The fuses 
>>     
> on 
>   
>> it were quite hot.  One was melted. I don't believe that initially 
>>     
> it 
>   
>> was due to the fan fix module, I just think it got too hot with 
>>     
> them 
>   
>> sitting there running.  Is there another relay that sticks or 
>> something that causes these to stick on?  Any ideas?
>>
>> Dale Funk
>> #4984
>> #941
>>     





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Message 13 
    From: "dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com" dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 5:58am(PDT) 
Subject: Michigan Spring Meet II 5/20/06 9 am till?, 5/18/2006, 9:00 am 


 Reminder from the Calendar of dmcnews
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Michigan Spring Meet II 5/20/06 9 am till?
Thursday May 18, 2006
9:00 am - 9:00 pm
(This event repeats  on the third Thursday of every month, until Sunday May 21, 2006.)
(The next reminder for this event will be sent in 1 day, 3 minutes.)
Event Location: 5637 Roosevelt Blvd. Dearborn Heights,Mi. 48125

Set up birthday reminders!
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Message 14 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 6:03am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Need HELP!!!  Odd Idle question...traveling and possibly stuck?!

Since you seem to have been able to rule out the throttle linkage it
is one of the following possiblities:
A bad connection (intermittant) between a sensor and the idle ECU
A bad sensor
A bad idle ECU
A sticking idle motor
I would start by checking all the plugs and wiring in the idle
circuit, a loose or faulty connection could be causing this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Cole"
<stainless_delorean_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > You must make sure the arm for the throttle returns positively to the
>








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Message 15 
    From: "dmcjosh85" dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 6:04am(PDT) 
Subject: What went wrong?

The previous Thread of mine regarding a dead fuel pump had a  lot of 
great input and advice from the DML community, DMC garden groove and 
a So. Cal owner with some good ideas. for that I thank you all. 
Unfortunatley the problem still persists that I cant get my fuel 
pump to work, but in light of that I present the following steps and 
measures taken to get me to where im at know on what I do know.

1. #7 fues is not bad
2. the fuel pump works, I tested it outside the car on 12 volt.
3. I had a loose ground plug BUT it does not belong to my fuel pump
4. The front wiring harness makes contact with the + and - ends of 
the fuel pump. so that rules out that I have a severed line on that.
5. The Main harnes makes contact from the connection in the water 
bottle housing to the ground connection where the inertia switch is 
located. with that said my ground connection is good all the way. 
6. The Pump did not run with the RPM Relay jumped and again with the 
RPM relay and the inertia switch jumper and again with the RPM relay 
jumped and a ground to the frame.

And now some light on my problem..
7. All connections on my RPM relay received 11.75 Volts, except when 
the Brown wire is jumped to the Purple/White for the fuel pump my 
voltometer reported a dead 0.01. same thing with the testing needles 
testing the lines themself without the jumper in-place.

So this whole time the devious problem has been positive power flow. 
But why? Why is there now power going thru that one wire when every 
other line gets power. 

The only other test that I can think of performing is checking to 
see is the signal gets from the conenction point on the RPM relay 
down to the connection point where the main harness hooks up to the 
front harness inside the water washer fluid box. 

Im about out of idea's here, ONce agian any and all help would 
greatly be appreciated.

~ Josh Tidwell
04463 VIN  (Bakersfield, CA)
dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com







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Message 16 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 6:04am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: AC compressor oil where does it go?

Actually you pour the oil into the plug on the top of the compressor.
Since the system is so dry you might want to put 4 oz in. You might
want to go to N:10:01 - :04 for further info on the compressor. If you
do not know what you are doing this is the kind of thing you should
consider giving to an A/C shop with the right equipment. If you don't
have a vacuum pump how are you going to evacuate the air and the
moisture from the system? If the system is contaminated or the
compressor was replaced you really should replace the accumulator too.
A system that is "flat" is considered contaminated. Not as bad as a
burn-out but it still must be handled differently than a system that
still holds pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> OK, I got a little bit out but not very much. I will infact replace 
> most of my AC myself but I would like to get what I have running so 
> 








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Message 17 
    From: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 6:05am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mac Mini Podcast - Volume 2

Hey All,

this installment of the DeLorean Mac Mini podcast shows my carputer 
video system in action. click the link below to watch the movie.

www.deloreanmacmini.com


-Ryan Brandys






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Message 18 
    From: "Chris Hawes" chris_at_dml_chawes.demon.co.uk
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 6:05am(PDT) 
Subject: re-fitting rear speaker panels

Hi all,

 

I used a heat gun to gently remove the rear speaker panels which proved
relatively straight forward.  Re-fitting I feel might not be so easy as the
plastic on the edges although intact is wrinkly/curled and not very tidy.
If I heat it up again to smooth it out won’t the warm plastic stop what ever
glue I should be using from being successful.

 

What glue should I use for re-attachment and do you have any other advice?

 

Thanks 

 

Chris H.

Vin 5255


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/340 - Release Date: 15/05/2006
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 19 
    From: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 11:59am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

I don't know where your power has gone, but if you ran the pump dry on a 
bench, it's toast.
Our toll-free line, 800 USADMC1, is available during working hours for 
tech help.  Why don't you call?
Warren at DMC



dmcjosh85 wrote:
> The previous Thread of mine regarding a dead fuel pump had a  lot of 
> great input and advice from the DML community, DMC garden groove and 
> a So. Cal owner with some good ideas. for that I thank you all. 
> Unfortunatley the problem still persists that I cant get my fuel 
> pump to work, but in light of that I present the following steps and 
> measures taken to get me to where im at know on what I do know.
> 
> 1. #7 fues is not bad
> 2. the fuel pump works, I tested it outside the car on 12 volt.
> 3. I had a loose ground plug BUT it does not belong to my fuel pump
> 4. The front wiring harness makes contact with the + and - ends of 
> the fuel pump. so that rules out that I have a severed line on that.
> 5. The Main harnes makes contact from the connection in the water 
> bottle housing to the ground connection where the inertia switch is 
> located. with that said my ground connection is good all the way. 
> 6. The Pump did not run with the RPM Relay jumped and again with the 
> RPM relay and the inertia switch jumper and again with the RPM relay 
> jumped and a ground to the frame.
> 
> And now some light on my problem..
> 7. All connections on my RPM relay received 11.75 Volts, except when 
> the Brown wire is jumped to the Purple/White for the fuel pump my 
> voltometer reported a dead 0.01. same thing with the testing needles 
> testing the lines themself without the jumper in-place.
> 
> So this whole time the devious problem has been positive power flow. 
> But why? Why is there now power going thru that one wire when every 
> other line gets power. 
> 
> The only other test that I can think of performing is checking to 
> see is the signal gets from the conenction point on the RPM relay 
> down to the connection point where the main harness hooks up to the 
> front harness inside the water washer fluid box. 
> 
> Im about out of idea's here, ONce agian any and all help would 
> greatly be appreciated.
> 
> ~ Josh Tidwell
> 04463 VIN  (Bakersfield, CA)
> dmcjosh85_at_dml_yahoo.com




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Message 20 
    From: "Joey Morgan" jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:00pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Fan Fix Electrical Problems

I have had the same problem, every once in a while my
fans will stay on when I turn the car off and I have
the fan fix. They work fine while the car is running,
they cycle when they are suppose, its just every now
and then when I turn off the car the fans stay on and
I have to dis-connect the fan fix from the battery.

Joey
#6297



--- Lawrence Lormand <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:

> Dale,
> I was told this never happened before by the maker,
> I've experienced 
> the same problem & was told it isn't the fan fix
> unit from Hervey, I 
> even sent it back to him & he said he couldn't find
> a problem so 
> when mine stayed on I hit the rear shelf & it would
> stop, but when 
> it melted the main lead to the battery while I was
> driving, I threw 
> the damn thing in the trash, cost me a rare left
> dark grey carpet 
> also from the acid lead I just replaced the
> carpeting to make the 
> car look good to. first my alternator catches fire,
> then My fan fix, 
> spend the dough & get melt downs for a fix. end up
> with wire fixes. 
> Should make my own & give them away what a guarantee
> Lawrence
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf"
> <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > The other day after driving 4984, the cooling fans
> were stuck on.
> > This has happened before, and I've alleviated it
> by unplugging the
> > fan fix module.  Sometimes they turn off on there
> own.
> > I went into the house for a little bit.  When I
> came out they were 
> > still on. I also had the fan fix module from
> Special-T.  The fuses 
> on 
> > it were quite hot.  One was melted. I don't
> believe that initially 
> it 
> > was due to the fan fix module, I just think it got
> too hot with 
> them 
> > sitting there running.  Is there another relay
> that sticks or 
> > something that causes these to stick on?  Any
> ideas?
> > 
> > Dale Funk
> > #4984
> > #941





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Message 21 
    From: "Hank" heskin_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:02pm(PDT) 
Subject: DMCNE Caravan to DCS - ideas

I'm pretty sure I'll be leaving the Boston area on Tuesday, 6/13 for a
nice day's drive to NJ to meet up with the DMA [or perhaps they'll met
up with us..;) ]... The last two caravans for the DCS shows (Memphis
and Pigeon Forge) we met in Cherry Hill, NJ,  but since we're going
north this time, perhaps it would make more sense to meet near Route
80 in Northern NJ - say Saddle Brook (intersection of Rt 80 and the
Garden State Parkway).

Here's a draft itinerary for us NE-DMC'ers:

Tuesday: Boston-> Saddle Brook: 220 miles/ 3.3 hours (overnight)
Wednesday: Saddle Brook->Sandusky, OH: 500 miles/ 8 hours (overnight)
Thursday: Sandusky -> Pheasant Run: 317 miles/ 5.1 hours
Thursday: Arrive Pheasant Run around 4PM.
Total Miles: 1,037, 16.4 hours

If you drive direct from Boston to PR it would be 1,023 miles and
16.25 hours, so it's almost a wash, except it would be only one
overnight instead of two.

-Hank
#1619





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________________________________________________________________________

Message 22 
    From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:03pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

Have you tested to see if there is power at fuse #7 while the rpm 
relay is jumped?

Nathan
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> The previous Thread of mine regarding a dead fuel pump had a  lot 
of 
> great input and advice from the DML community, DMC garden groove 
and 
> a So. Cal owner with some good ideas. for that I thank you all. 
> Unfortunatley the problem still persists that I cant get my fuel 
> pump to work, but in light of that I present the following steps 
and 
> measures taken to get me to where im at know on what I do know.
> 
> 1. #7 fues is not bad
> 2. the fuel pump works, I tested it outside the car on 12 volt.
> 3. I had a loose ground plug BUT it does not belong to my fuel pump
> 4. The front wiring harness makes contact with the + and - ends of 
> the fuel pump. so that rules out that I have a severed line on 
that.
> 5. The Main harnes makes contact from the connection in the water 
> bottle housing to the ground connection where the inertia switch 
is 
> located. with that said my ground connection is good all the way. 
> 6. The Pump did not run with the RPM Relay jumped and again with 
the 
> RPM relay and the inertia switch jumper and again with the RPM 
relay 
> jumped and a ground to the frame.
> 
> And now some light on my problem..
> 7. All connections on my RPM relay received 11.75 Volts, except 
when 
> the Brown wire is jumped to the Purple/White for the fuel pump my 
> voltometer reported a dead 0.01. same thing with the testing 
needles 
> testing the lines themself without the jumper in-place.
> 
> So this whole time the devious problem has been positive power 
flow. 
> But why? Why is there now power going thru that one wire when 
every 
> other line gets power. 
> 
> The only other test that I can think of performing is checking to 
> see is the signal gets from the conenction point on the RPM relay 
> down to the connection point where the main harness hooks up to 
the 
> front harness inside the water washer fluid box. 
> 
> Im about out of idea's here, ONce agian any and all help would 
> greatly be appreciated.
> 
> ~ Josh Tidwell
> 04463 VIN  (Bakersfield, CA)
> dmcjosh85_at_dml_...
>









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________________________________________________________________________

Message 23 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:03pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

The power for the fuel pump goes from the RPM relay through the wiring
harness to the front of the car. It goes through the area by the
windshield washer pump and resovoir. In there the harness has a
connector plug. You could have a bad connection there. Pull the cover
off, pull the plug apart and check for voltage there on the wire for
the fuel pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcjosh85" <dmcjosh85_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> The previous Thread of mine regarding a dead fuel pump had a  lot of 
> great input and advice from the DML community, DMC garden groove and 
> a So. Cal owner with some good ideas. for that I thank you all. 
> Unfortunatley the problem still persists that I cant get my fuel 
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message 24 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:03pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: re-fitting rear speaker panels

You really don't have to use glue but if you insist, 3M trim adhesive
is very good. The clips and the weatherstripping will hold the panel
in place.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Hawes" <chris_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> 
>  
> 
> I used a heat gun to gently remove the rear speaker panels which proved
> relatively straight forward.  Re-fitting I feel might not be so easy
as the
> plastic on the edges although intact is wrinkly/curled and not very
tidy.
> If I heat it up again to smooth it out won't the warm plastic stop
what ever
> glue I should be using from being successful.
> 
>  
> 
> What glue should I use for re-attachment and do you have any other
advice?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks 
> 
>  
> 
> Chris H.
> 
> Vin 5255
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/340 - Release Date:
15/05/2006
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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________________________________________________________________________

Message 25 
    From: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com
    Date: Tue May 16, 2006 0:03pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Gold De Lorean Photo's?

Carl is actually the third owner of 20105.  He bought it off of a guy 
in NY.

Matt

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Is "Carl" who currently owns 20105 the original winner of that car? 
As
> I  understand it, 20105 was the grand prize of some kind of
> sweepstakes involving the BigLots! chain of stores.
>









________________________________________________________________________
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