From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 3:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3251

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Ripples or No Ripples?
From: "Daniel" dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com

2. Re: URGENT-oil leak
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: What's My '81 Delorean Worth?
From: "davvet2" davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com

4. Re: DCS 2006 "STUFF" has arrived
From: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com

5. 4419 Bites the dust
From: "captrjm" rjmm_at_dml_buckeye-express.com

6. Adjusting Doors
From: "jedimasterglenn" jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net

7. My doors not symmetrical
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

8. Replacing Headliner
From: "birdwell77095" birdwells_at_dml_usa.net

9. Re: DCS 2006 "STUFF" has arrived (little stuff?)
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. DCS Registration?
From: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com

11. Re: 4419 Bites the dust
From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com

12. Re: Adjusting Doors
From: "Mike Substelny" drivestainless_at_dml_yahoo.com

13. Re: Adjusting Doors
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

14. Re: My doors not symmetrical
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

15. Re: Replacing Headliner
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

16. Re: Ripples or No Ripples?
From: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com

17. Re: Ripples or No Ripples?
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

18. Re: 4419 Bites the dust
From: "Erik Geerdink" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com

19. Re: 4419 Bites the dust
From: "captrjm" rjmm_at_dml_buckeye-express.com

20. Re: Ripples or No Ripples?
From: "Daniel" dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com



Message 1
From: "Daniel" dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com
Date: Thu May 18, 2006 6:21pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Ripples or No Ripples?

I am currently in the process of replacing my seat covers in full leather. The leather that I plan on using for this Job is Connolly Auto Lux. It is expensive but some of the finest leather around, used on Rolls Royce, Ferrari, Bentley, Jaguar etc. It is even used in the House of Commons and at Windsor Castle.

My brother and I own a part time marine upholstery business and foresee no problems reupholstering the seats as it is a fairly simple pattern. Mark is pretty much on the money with the ripples. They lose the ripple effect not so much from the shrinking as from the stretching. The ripples are placed in the seat by sewing the seam under slight tension. After time, just like our own skin, leather losses its strength and resiliency. You can greatly slow down this process by using a good conditioner 2-3 times a year. In my experience leatherique is the standard for conditioning. 

Dan
4160  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> IMHO, many Deloreans with original seats have lost the ripple due to 
> the leather shrinking with age...  That is why you will see so many 
> cars with smooth seats.
> 
> I have seen the DMCH replacements, and they are nice. 
> However, they do not match the original.  I think this is a "feature" 
> because there should be some value to having preteen original seats.  
> I am glad they did not make an exact replica.
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









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Message 2 
    From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Thu May 18, 2006 6:22pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: URGENT-oil leak

Paul,
 
Your low oil pressure light sensor is leaking, or your valve cover is leaking on that side (most likely the sensor though).  Check your oil level  on the dipstick to make sure it isn't excessive.  The thing with oil leaks  is the worst thing that will happen is you will run out of oil - but only if you  don't check it and top it off!!! So, as far as the oil leak goes, you are OK as long as you keep the oil in full range or at least on the dipstick.  The  sensor is easy to change and inexpensive.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message 3 
    From: "davvet2" davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Thu May 18, 2006 6:23pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: What's My '81 Delorean Worth?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_... wrote:

Roy,

The vin is 002173. The car is pretty well original, and hasn't been updated since I've owned it.

By the way: thanks to all that sent me private emails on the value of the car; it appears that the offer I have is WAY too low.

Thanks,

Jim
>  
> Jim.. What's the VIN?  No updates at all?
>  
> Roy
> 0893
>  
> In a message dated 5/17/2006 10:33:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> davvet2_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> I have  finally decided to sell the car; I looked at a lot of 
> Deloreans before  buying this one, it was the best of the bunch
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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Message 4 
    From: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com
    Date: Thu May 18, 2006 6:24pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: DCS 2006 "STUFF" has arrived

Ken just stopped by and showed me all the new stuff

both pins look great: classic "stainless" (silver) with gray, dark gray, and white highlights, I like them better than the orange ones from PF

the watch has a nice brushed case and band

and the 25th anniversary shirts have a cool "metallic"-look screened ink

all pretty cool

Cliff


On Thu, 18 May 2006 09:54:52 EDT, you wrote:

>Well the shipment finally came in for DCS 2006.
>The new pins are awesome.
>There are two versions one is the Show Pin that usually is just a pin 
>consisting of the profile of the DeLorean .
> 
>This year the pin is event specific and has DCS 2006 and the 25th  
>anniversary.  Those will be given out at the show with  registration.   They are much 
>more colorful and detailed than the pins  we made before.
> 
>IN addition we have a 25th Anniversary pin that goes along with the 
>25th anniversary logo.
>These will be first come first serve and will be avail at the show. If  
>there are any left over we will sell them on E-bay and the Josh's store.
> 
>There are 200 Silk Screened T-shirts for the 25th anniversary and they 
>will be first come first serve. Once gone no more will be made.  These 
>will be  on sale at the show.
> 
>We also have a limited number of watches with the DeLorean and the DCS  logo.
>These will go for $25 and are first come first serve.  We have only  
>mens watches at this point but if womens watches are requested we can order  them.
>This is the first time for me making watches so I don't know the  
>demand but if we run out we can order more.
> 
>I have seen some T-shirts around from previous shows that have shall we 
>say "been around" Especially mine lately, in particular the Pigeon 
>Forge and Memphis  shirts.  These will also be available.  We will 
>print them at the show  on an as need basis so you don't have to worry about us running out of a  size.
> 
>The Awards are Trophies this year and they are really nice. So clean 
>your car up and cross your fingers.
>Keep in mind for the Daily Driver judging. Light road dust is not deducted  
>for since you are driving to the show and will be judged as you get there.   
>Grease, heavy brake dust, and general dirt that is not just light road 
>dust will  be deducted.
> 
>For daily driver class the cars will be judged based on condition for 
>the mileage. thus a car with 10K will be looked at for more pristine 
>details than one with 100k.  Modifications are fine and will not be 
>deducted for as long  as the job done looks like it is well done and is 
>not falling apart, Items such as radios, speakers, changed dashes, refurbished interiors will not be
>counted  against you as these may be normal wear and tear and equipment   upgrades.  
>Judges will deduct for mismatched interiors, poor radio fits or  
>similar items,
> 
>You will not be deducted for non NCT tires. You will be judged on the 
>condition of the tires on the car.  If they are bald and cracked that 
>has  not been maintained and will be deducted for but a tire 3/4 wear 
>but kept clean  will be fine.  Just a few tips,
> 
>The concours is its own contest so rules and regulations for that are 
>in  the Millenium Handbook,
> 
>We have a number of catagories and you can enter 1 catagory.
> 
>There are some specialty catagories and you can enter as many of those 
>as you like.
> 
>We also have the competition for best Sun Star or Model (does not need 
>to  be Sun Star)
> 
>NOTE: !!!!!!!!
>
>Unlike previous shows you MUST have a DINNER ticket to get back in the 
>convention center after 5PM on Friday or Saturday and to get in at all 
>on  Thursday for dinner and the two seminars.
> 
>There is a $10 fee for the day for those not going to dinner (Its 
>included in your dinner ticket)
> 
>Most Seminars and special guests will be at the dinners,
> 
>We are less than a month and about 20$ of you that have registered at 
>the Hotel still  have not event registered.
> 
>See you in a Month.
> 
>Ken
>DeLorean Car Show Inc
>deloreancarshow.com





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Message 5 
    From: "captrjm" rjmm_at_dml_buckeye-express.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:47am(PDT) 
Subject: 4419 Bites the dust

  Well after being a very satisfied 1981 Delorean owner since June 
of 1998, I sadly have come to the conclusion that the car is 
finished. The frame is beyond repair and the vehicle is no longer 
safe to operate. 
  When the car was purchased in 98 it had been abandoned for many 
years and the weather and exposure had taken its toll on the 
interior and facias. Against better judgment I bought this one and 
had it flat bedded home.
  I wrote a large check at the Warehouse in Columbus the year the 
show was held in Cincinnati and the fun started. After six months of 
parts hunting and the help from folks around the country, we were on 
the road. 
  I started with 9400 miles and ran it up to 34000 cross country 
miles. With many weekend trips and long vacations, this was a 
pleasure to drive. We have met and traveled with some very good 
people who also happen to enjoy their cars. The amount of interest 
shared was not just limited to the cars but the desire to travel and 
meet new people.
  Kathy and I have always been reluctant to join clubs of any sort. 
But the decision to participate in the Delorean Club of Ohio was one 
we will continue to enjoy for years to come. The fact that we are 
currently without a Delorean will not prevent our continued interest 
and traveling with the group. 
  4419 is currently deposited at Dave's shop in Columbus. I have 
made arrangement to get rid of the carcass with Dave. And the hunt 
starts for another car.
  Hoping to see everybody in Chicago.

   Rick and Kathy
   Sandusky









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Message 6 
    From: "jedimasterglenn" jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:47am(PDT) 
Subject: Adjusting Doors

Hi,

My driver's side door closes, latches and locks fine, but is difficult 
to open.  When I pull the handle, the door doesn't budge.  It feels 
like it's locked.  If I put my left hand on the door and push down and 
toward the car as I pull the handle with my right hand, it opens 
immediately (imagine tracing a vertical line from the front of the 
toll booth window, down to the door trim...that's where I put my left 
hand).  

I had the inner and outer door seals done on both doors (used PJ 
grady's larger size seals).  The door opened fine before this was 
done, so logic says I need to adjust the door somehow...but I'm not 
sure where to begin.  Any tips anyone?

Thanks!
Glenn
5391   








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Message 7 
    From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:48am(PDT) 
Subject: My doors not symmetrical

Hello group,

I can finally start to concentrate on some of the cosmetic issues my 
car has now that the mechanical stuff is all sorted out. 

I noticed that if you look directly at the font of the car the left 
and right door do not sit exactly the same. With both doors closed 
I  can see the following differences between the left and right 
side: The gap in between the T panel and the door is wider on the 
drivers side (by 1/8th inch or so), The gap in between the door and 
the windshield is wider on the drivers side and the door seems a 
little "raised" in proportion to the passengers side. Ironically the 
driver's side is my "no problem" door in that it shuts perfectly 
with both strikers engaging at the same time. The passenger's side 
has never closed well, even after spending hours lining the strikers 
up. I got it so that the door will close OK IF you pull by the 
handle strap or push the door down from outside at the same 
location. If you try to push the door closed away from this central 
point it seems like the door warps slightly and causes one striker 
to hit before the other. 

Do I need to adjust one or more of my doors? It just seems like they 
should be more symmetrical, it bothers me cosmetically. Also, with 
both doors open the passenger door seems lower than the driver's 
side. 

Nathan 
2277










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Message 8 
    From: "birdwell77095" birdwells_at_dml_usa.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:49am(PDT) 
Subject: Replacing Headliner

I'm planning on having my headliner replaced by a shop that does this. 
Are there any special instructions I need to give them? Tips or 
warnings? Tips on removing? My headliner is currently an off-white 
color and I'm planning on getting a light gray. What has been your 
experience doing this and what color did you use?

Shannon 
VIN 16113








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Message 9 
    From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:51am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: DCS 2006 "STUFF" has arrived (little stuff?)

Tell me the sizes you want and I can make them
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 10 
    From: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 5:59am(PDT) 
Subject: DCS Registration?

I've been talking to Ken about the significant number of people with 
hotel reservations but without show registration at this time. I've 
also talked with some of the people I know in "the community" and 
it's apparent that there's a misconception going around that people 
can just show up for the DeLorean Car Show and see everything - 
without actually registering for the show. 

Some things to think about and consider. There are a couple of 
problems with this - first of all it's basically unfair to Ken as he 
could end up not covering his cash investment in the show, but second 
of all you WILL miss a lot. If you just "show up", you will 
essentially only be able to see the cars that are on display outside 
the convention center on Saturday afternoon. Unlike prior events, you 
won't be able to park your own car in the display area and will 
likely end up parking a considerable distance away. You won't be able 
to get inside where the vendors will be and the custom/Millennium 
Concours cars will be on display. You'll also miss the dinner and 
entertainment, and  you won't get the driving tour package. You will 
also miss out on admission to the Bloomington gold Corvette show, 
which is free to anyone attending DCS2006. 

So - if you are planning on just "dropping in" you may want to 
reconsider. And sign up now! www.deloreancarshow.com

Dave Swingle - local help and tour director







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Message 11 
    From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 6:08am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: 4419 Bites the dust

I'm sure that there was more wrong than just the frame, but I still 
wouldn't be surprised to see 4419 back on the road eventually.

Old DeLoreans never die, they just regenerate under new ownership. :)

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captrjm" <rjmm_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
>   Well after being a very satisfied 1981 Delorean owner since June 
> of 1998, I sadly have come to the conclusion that the car is 
> finished. The frame is beyond repair and the vehicle is no longer 
> safe to operate. 
>   When the car was purchased in 98 it had been abandoned for many 
> years and the weather and exposure had taken its toll on the 
> interior and facias. Against better judgment I bought this one and 
> had it flat bedded home.
>   I wrote a large check at the Warehouse in Columbus the year the 
> show was held in Cincinnati and the fun started. After six months 
of 
> parts hunting and the help from folks around the country, we were 
on 
> the road. 
>   I started with 9400 miles and ran it up to 34000 cross country 
> miles. With many weekend trips and long vacations, this was a 
> pleasure to drive. We have met and traveled with some very good 
> people who also happen to enjoy their cars. The amount of interest 
> shared was not just limited to the cars but the desire to travel 
and 
> meet new people.
>   Kathy and I have always been reluctant to join clubs of any sort. 
> But the decision to participate in the Delorean Club of Ohio was 
one 
> we will continue to enjoy for years to come. The fact that we are 
> currently without a Delorean will not prevent our continued 
interest 
> and traveling with the group. 
>   4419 is currently deposited at Dave's shop in Columbus. I have 
> made arrangement to get rid of the carcass with Dave. And the hunt 
> starts for another car.
>   Hoping to see everybody in Chicago.
> 
>    Rick and Kathy
>    Sandusky
>








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Message 12 
    From: "Mike Substelny" drivestainless_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 6:09am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Adjusting Doors

> Hi, My driver's side door closes, latches
> and locks fine, but is difficult to open.
> When I pull the handle, the door doesn't
> budge. It feels like it's locked. If I
> put my left hand on the door and push
> down and toward the car as I pull the

I once had a similar problem.  It turned out that the
door lock and latch mechanisms were working fine, the
problem was that the door was not closing properly.

This problem was intermittent, but is appeared most
often when I parked on an incline.  When closed, the
door seemed to be locked.

Here is how to tell if this is happening to you:

With the door open, look at the faces of both latch
mechanisms.  Also look at the extreme heads of the
posts.  Do you see scarring, as if something had been
dragged across the surface?  If so, this is an
indication that the door latch does not lign up with
the post.  But the misalignment is along front-back
the axis of the car, not in the post itself.

In my case the solution was to install the door
guides.  Somehow my early car (01280) had missed that
little addition.

I hope this helps,

- Mike Substelny
  VIN 01280 for almost half its life now




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Message 13 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 7:06am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Adjusting Doors

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jedimasterglenn"
<jedimasterglenn_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
This is not something you can get in an e-mail. Adjusting the doors on
a Delorean takes some experience. You have to get the both locks to
lock together in the second locking position. That usually takes
adjusting the anchor pins. Then you have to open the door and go
through the whole adjustment procedure mayby a couple of times till
you are satisfied. In some cases you will have to remove the latches
and clean and relubricate them to get them to work smoothly. At the
Door adjustment this year one car wouldn't work consistantly.
Sometimes it would lock you in and most of the time it worked fine. It
turned out to be a problem with the rear latch, it would not hold and
was not staying in the second locking position. You can start by
spraying some lubricant at the latches and see if that helps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



> Hi,
> 
> My driver's side door closes, latches and locks fine, but is difficult 
> to open.  When I pull the handle, the door doesn't budge.  It feels 
> like it's locked.  If I put my left hand on the door and push down and 
> toward the car as I pull the handle with my right hand, it opens 
>








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Message 14 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 8:21am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: My doors not symmetrical

If the hinges on the doors look like they have never been touched then
don't try adjusting the doors that way. The body panels are adjusted
TO the doors, not the doors to the panels. The Tee roof can be
adjusted left-to-right. It sounds like you need to adjust the anchor
pins to get the doors closed evenly. On the passenger side you may 
have to make the holes for the anchor pins larger (cut the fiberglass)
so you can properly adjust the anchor pins. You should not have to
force the doors or slam them. It beats up the locks and the anchors.
You will force the linkage out of adjustment and eventually get
yourself locked in. The driver's door needs to close a little bit more
and the passenger door needs to close easily. When open the doors are
not always equal. No way to adjust unless you have different struts
and they hold the doors open differently. In that case replace one or
both struts. You can spend a lot of time (especially the first time)
adjusting the anchor pins and the door mechanisms. Take your time and
be careful of the sharp edges. The anchor pins should glide right up
the center of the latches without hitting the sides or on the head of
the anchor. Do this on a flat, level surface like a concrete garage floor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nathan Sobieralski" <valleyrat12_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Hello group,
> 
> I can finally start to concentrate on some of the cosmetic issues my 
> car has now that the mechanical stuff is all sorted out. 
> 
> I noticed that if you look directly at the font of the car the left 
> and right door do not sit exactly the same. With both doors closed 
> I  can see the following differences between the left and right 
> side: The gap in between the T panel and the door is wider on the 
>








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Message 15 
    From: "Jake Kamphoefner" jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 8:34am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Replacing Headliner

 
   
  Shannon,
   
  Are you going to remove them, or have the shop R and R?  I recommend you take them out yourself, have the shop recover them, and then put them back in yourself.
   
  In either case, make sure the shop understands the orientation of the pieces when installed.  There is a definite "grain" to the material, and it will drive you crazy if the material on your doors flows horizontally, but the others vertically (ask me how I know...).  This is very nit picky, I know, but I wish my PO had considered it!
   
  The other thing is the door seals.  During reinstallation, the edge of the headliner material is glued to the underbody, just under the inner door seal on the roof.  Be certain that the material is cut short enough that none is visible in the "rain" side of the roof gutter.  If it's left too long, it will wick water into the car and ruin your newly covered headliners.
   
  You might also consider gluing some type of metal reinforcement to the underside of the area just next to the rear window.  After removal, they often have a tendency to sag in the center.
   
  I hope all that makes sense!  Despite how I made it sound, it is a very easy job.
   
  Jake Kamphoefner
  1063
  

birdwell77095 <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net> wrote:
  I'm planning on having my headliner replaced by a shop that does this. 
Are there any special instructions I need to give them? Tips or 
warnings? Tips on removing? My headliner is currently an off-white 
color and I'm planning on getting a light gray. What has been your 
experience doing this and what color did you use?

Shannon 
VIN 16113




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Message 16 
    From: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 8:42am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Ripples or No Ripples?

On 5/18/06, Daniel <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> They lose the ripple effect not so much from the shrinking as from the
> stretching.


Not to be argumentitive, but that statement doesn't really make much sense.
If the leather was getting stretched, the seat covers would get more loose,
instead of tighter like they do. Well, at least like the original covers in
my D and the others i've seen that haven't been recovered (or the rare few
that live indoors 24/7). Mine had actually shrank to the point the foam was
in compression enough that the seats were rock hard and one of the seams on
the seat back had broken it's stitching.  Back when I got out of high school
I worked in a upholstry shop for about 5 years, and I can tell you I never
saw a leather seat cover that fit more loosely on it's seat after it'd be in
use a few years in that whole time.

Actually, here's a little experiment you can do to prove it's a result of
moisture and heat. Take a 6"x6" square of new leather, soak it in water for
24 hours, then bake it in an oven until it's completely dry and I can
gaurentee you that it'll be at least 1/2" shorter on all sides. Probably
more.

What's happening is the oils are getting leached out of the leather to the
surface, which causes it to shrink and lose it's suppleness and flexibility.
I am in complete agreement about the leatherique though. Conditioning the
leather several times a year will greatly slow down the loss of the oils
from the leather and replentish some of the lost natural oils.

Chris
VIN #3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 17 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 11:24am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Ripples or No Ripples?

The ripples are SUPPOSED to be there. Never mind why they aren't, it
is probably a combination of sunlight, age, temperature, and moisture.
I have used Leatherique rejuvinator. The stuff is amazing. It will
make the leather feel like new, supple leather. It may take many
treatments but with that stuff you can take leather that feels like
cardboard and make it new again. It won't make the ripples like new
but I have used it on seats that didn't have any ripples anymore and I
got it to have some ripples again. Best to use it on seats that don't
need it. Use it twice a year and the leather will last a lot longer.
You should also get the cleaner. Dirt is very bad on leather. It is
like rubbing with sandpaper. This stuff is not cheap but it is a lot
cheaper than new seats! At least it is one product that does work as
advertised. This is what they use on Rolls-Royces, Jaguars, Bentlys,
and other high-end cars. Use it on the steering wheel, shifter boot,
seats, and door pulls. Use it freely, don't be stingy with it even
though it is expensive. You will like the results. And NO, I do not
work for Leatherique.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Murley" <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On 5/18/06, Daniel <dmcburn75_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > They lose the ripple effect not so much from the shrinking as from the
> > stretching.
> 
> 
> Not to be argumentitive, but that statement doesn't really make much
sense.
> 








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________________________________________________________________________

Message 18 
    From: "Erik Geerdink" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 11:24am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: 4419 Bites the dust

Rick,
  it sounds like a good car, except for the frame.  I hope someone is willing to put a new frame on this car and not just part it out.
   
  erik
  

captrjm <rjmm_at_dml_buckeye-express.com> wrote:
  Well after being a very satisfied 1981 Delorean owner since June 
of 1998, I sadly have come to the conclusion that the car is 
finished. The frame is beyond repair and the vehicle is no longer 
safe to operate. 
When the car was purchased in 98 it had been abandoned for many 
years and the weather and exposure had taken its toll on the 
interior and facias. Against better judgment I bought this one and 
had it flat bedded home.
I wrote a large check at the Warehouse in Columbus the year the 
show was held in Cincinnati and the fun started. After six months of 
parts hunting and the help from folks around the country, we were on 
the road. 
I started with 9400 miles and ran it up to 34000 cross country 
miles. With many weekend trips and long vacations, this was a 
pleasure to drive. We have met and traveled with some very good 
people who also happen to enjoy their cars. The amount of interest 
shared was not just limited to the cars but the desire to travel and 
meet new people.
Kathy and I have always been reluctant to join clubs of any sort. 
But the decision to participate in the Delorean Club of Ohio was one 
we will continue to enjoy for years to come. The fact that we are 
currently without a Delorean will not prevent our continued interest 
and traveling with the group. 
4419 is currently deposited at Dave's shop in Columbus. I have 
made arrangement to get rid of the carcass with Dave. And the hunt 
starts for another car.
Hoping to see everybody in Chicago.

Rick and Kathy
Sandusky





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________________________________________________________________________

Message 19 
    From: "captrjm" rjmm_at_dml_buckeye-express.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 11:32am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: 4419 Bites the dust

 The frame was in sad shape when I purchased the car in 98 and was a 
work in progress every time I worked on the car. I have many hours 
in frame cleaning, sandblasting and painting but the hidden portions 
of the frame got the best of 4419. The area under the motor and 
pivot points are fractured and cracked all the way. There is not 
even enough metal to weld to in many places in order to add more 
support.
  But every thing else is 100% operational on the car. Most of the 
upgrades (fanzilla, water pump by-pass, fuel tank, Alternator) have 
been addressed. The body is very clean with no rough spots, new 
seats last year and refurbished wheels.
  A replacement frame would correct the problem but I just do not 
have the time to invest in a project as large as that. When you add 
up the cost estimate of 3 to 4 grand for frame, 3 grand for labor 
and the parts replacement would add up quickly. A guy could have 9 
to 10 thousand dollars for the project to be completed. 
  So to cut my losses and sell the car as a parts vehicle and 
purchase another was a decision not easily made.

Rick 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> I'm sure that there was more wrong than just the frame, but I 
still 
> wouldn't be surprised to see 4419 back on the road eventually.
> 
> Old DeLoreans never die, they just regenerate under new 
ownership. :)
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
>








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Message 20 
    From: "Daniel" dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Fri May 19, 2006 11:35am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Ripples or No Ripples?

Chris, the seats will in fact shrink. The area I am talking about is
at the seams. They are sewn under tension and as the seats get older
these seams stretch. This coupled with the leather shrinking will,
over time, remove the ripples.

-Dan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Murley" <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On 5/18/06, Daniel <dmcburn75_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > They lose the ripple effect not so much from the shrinking as from the
> > stretching.
> 
> 
> Not to be argumentitive, but that statement doesn't really make much
sense.
> If the leather was getting stretched, the seat covers would get more
loose,
> instead of tighter like they do. Well, at least like the original
covers in
> my D and the others i've seen that haven't been recovered (or the
rare few
> that live indoors 24/7). Mine had actually shrank to the point the
foam was
> in compression enough that the seats were rock hard and one of the
seams on
> the seat back had broken it's stitching.  Back when I got out of
high school
> I worked in a upholstry shop for about 5 years, and I can tell you I
never
> saw a leather seat cover that fit more loosely on it's seat after
it'd be in
> use a few years in that whole time.
> 
> Actually, here's a little experiment you can do to prove it's a
result of


> moisture and heat. Take a 6"x6" square of new leather, soak it in
water for
> 24 hours, then bake it in an oven until it's completely dry and I can
> gaurentee you that it'll be at least 1/2" shorter on all sides. Probably
> more.
> 
> What's happening is the oils are getting leached out of the leather
to the
> surface, which causes it to shrink and lose it's suppleness and
flexibility.
> I am in complete agreement about the leatherique though.
Conditioning the
> leather several times a year will greatly slow down the loss of the oils
> from the leather and replentish some of the lost natural oils.
> 
> Chris
> VIN #3209
> http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








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