From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 12:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3254

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: De Lorean merchandise?
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com

2. Re: Water on Driver Side Floor
From: "Sandor Piszar" piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

3. Stainless Steel
From: "Michael Babb" mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com

4. Rear valence deistorted
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. Suspension Symptoms
From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com

6. wobbly steering wheel
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Rear valence deistorted
From: "kjc" ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com

8. Re: Suspension Symptoms
From: "David Hudgins" painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com

9. John De Loreans Book?
From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com

10. Re: John De Loreans Book?
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Alternator upgrade troubles
From: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com

12. Re: John De Loreans Book?
From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com

13. DMCH performance exhaust
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com

14. Re: John De Loreans Book?
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com

15. Re: John De Loreans Book?
From: "Ken Baker" kenbaker1265_at_dml_msn.com

16. Re: John De Loreans Book?
From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com

17. Raffle Car Update
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Fan Fix - New Solution
From: "wingd2_at_dml_aol.com" wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: wobbly steering wheel
From: "Wayne Wagner" dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

20. Starting Problem...help
From: "jedimasterglenn" jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net

21. Stuck Screw Holding Washer Reservoir Basket
From: "birdwell77095" birdwells_at_dml_usa.net

22. blue anti-freeze??
From: "Joe OBrien" joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. Re: wobbly steering wheel
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

24. Re: Alternator upgrade troubles
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

25. Re: Starting Problem...help
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net



Message 1
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com
Date: Sun May 21, 2006 2:59pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: De Lorean merchandise?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" <Nick_at_dml_...>
wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can buy De Lorean merchandise?

BTTF-related DeLorean merchandise can be purchased at 
http://www.bttf.net/












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Message 2 
    From: "Sandor Piszar" piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 2:59pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Water on Driver Side Floor

The cause is probably the same thing that was soaking the passenger 
side.  Even if you have blown the drain tube out previously there may 
still have been some leftover debris that blocked it again.  Or 
sometines the hose gets kinked, or is not lined up correctly in the 
hole.  You should buy and install a new drain tube and see if that 
corrects your issue.


Sandor
# 3002


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I've given up on curing the air conditioning water leak on the 
> passenger side.  I've put in a new evaporator, twice, still spills 
> water onto the floor when the air conditioner is used (in Florida, 
> that's most of the time).  Blowing air into the drain tube somehow 
> unblocks something, and the water then runs out.  But now, the 
problem 
> is the carpet on the driver's side is soaked too.  We're in kind of 
a 
> drought here, the car hasn't been in the rain in a long time.  What 
> could be causing water to soak the driver's side carpet?
>










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Message 3 
    From: "Michael Babb" mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 3:01pm(PDT) 
Subject: Stainless Steel

I have been waiting for these!  stainless Steel tiles - looks like I am 
going to have to redo the garage!

http://tinyurl.com/hcnzw

Michael
VIN 3472





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Message 4 
    From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 3:02pm(PDT) 
Subject: Rear valence deistorted

This has bothered me for some time. My rear valence (the part that 
holds the back of the t panel down) is warped fairly badly. Bad enough 
that it does not hold the t panel down on the drivers side. What could 
have caused this? I checked my torsion bars and they are not over 
torqued. I plan to buy the re pro part from DMC this summer but I 
don't want to ruin my new one.

Nathan
2277









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Message 5 
    From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 4:35pm(PDT) 
Subject: Suspension Symptoms

I have nearly all the new suspension components necessary for a 
thorough rebuild of the front end so really, it's a little late to ask 
this question but I have to ask.

Some of you have replaced your upper/lower control arm bushings, ball 
joints, shocks, sway bar bushings and tie-rod ends and reported a 
marked improvement, please tell me what your problem symtoms were 
BEFORE you replaced all of these components. (i.e. sloppy 
steering, "floating" front end etc) I'd like some elaboration on 
what "clunky" ball joints feel like and what "floating" really refers 
to. More detail is better.

You can mail offline or post online, whichever you prefer.

Thanks in advance,

Rich A.
#5335







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Message 6 
    From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 5:00pm(PDT) 
Subject: wobbly steering wheel

Hey group,
 
A couple weeks ago I posted saying that my steering wheel turns back and  
forth a few degrees while braking, indicating possibly warped rotors.   Today I 
took the rotors off and wanted to get them turned.  Too bad they  are already 
at minimum thickness... guess I'll have to order some new rotors  up.  On the 
other hand, after I reassembled everything, the wheel shimmy  went away.  The 
shop manual says to torque the calipers to 55 lbs, and I am  positive they were 
quite a bit below that when I removed them, so perhaps that  was the cause?  
Just in case anyone else has a similar problem.
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message 7 
    From: "kjc" ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 5:00pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Rear valence deistorted

they are just plastic, so I assume that over time they warp from heat and
pressure.
I pulled mine out a few years ago and put in clips to hold the t-panel down.
I need the repro part, but keep forgetting.
-kevin


On 5/21/06, Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> This has bothered me for some time. My rear valence (the part that
> holds the back of the t panel down) is warped fairly badly. Bad enough
> that it does not hold the t panel down on the drivers side. What could
> have caused this? I checked my torsion bars and they are not over
> torqued. I plan to buy the re pro part from DMC this summer but I
> don't want to ruin my new one.
>
> Nathan
> 2277




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Message 8 
    From: "David Hudgins" painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 5:01pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Suspension Symptoms

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tell you if you ask." <racuti1_at_dml_...> wrote:
>Hey Rich.. I have done all ,my suspension bushings in urethane now and 
the difference is great.. very little body roll.. plus I would guess the floating 
feeling would be the front end to high but thats not the case any more with the 
eibach springs..All in all its a totally different ride...Dave.
> I have nearly all the new suspension components necessary for a 
> thorough rebuild of the front end so really, it's a little late to ask 
> this question but I have to ask.
> 
> Some of you have replaced your upper/lower control arm bushings, ball 
> joints, shocks, sway bar bushings and tie-rod ends and reported a 
> marked improvement, please tell me what your problem symtoms were 
> BEFORE you replaced all of these components. (i.e. sloppy 
> steering, "floating" front end etc) I'd like some elaboration on 
> what "clunky" ball joints feel like and what "floating" really refers 
> to. More detail is better.
> 
> You can mail offline or post online, whichever you prefer.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
>









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Message 9 
    From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 5:02pm(PDT) 
Subject: John De Loreans Book?

Does anyone know where I can buy it?

Thanks.
Nick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message 10 
    From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:30pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: John De Loreans Book?

 
 
Try Amazon.com.  You can always find pretty much any book on there  used.
 
Andy
 
 
In a message dated 5/21/2006 7:02:41 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com writes:

Does  anyone know where I can buy it?

Thanks.
Nick



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message 11 
    From: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:31pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Alternator upgrade troubles

Thanks Rob & others for your replies. This issue has been resolved (see below).

1. Why 180 amp? I had two concerns in wanting to upgade. The first was
voltage drop at idle - the stock Motorola left my headlights dim at
idle. The second concern was to provide power for a higher output
stereo install.

I didn't need 180 amps, however, the conversion process was simple and
the alternator was affordable so I went for it. I figured I'd have
plenty of power to spare for any amplifiers I could possibly want -
"Better too much power than not enough" was the idea. Unfortunately, I
was not aware that higher output alternators actually provide LESS
power at idle, a fact which Rob, Toby, & others have since informed me
of.

I was actually able to mitigate this reasonably well - first, I
tightened up my grounds, which bought me some idle power. Second, I
replaced my plain jane lead acid battery with an Optima Red Top based
on advice from the local stereo shop - this was giving me better idle
performance than the Motorola, though not by much and I still dropped
voltage at idle.

2. How did I solve it? I was going to try putting a smaller pulley on
next week to further increase idle voltage but the situation solved
itself when the new alternator burned itself up while I was 2 hours
from home at a PNDC function! So we performed an emergency replacement
with an AC Delco alternator from Schucks via the cross reference list.
The Delco is "only" 110 amp but it's physically much larger and
provides gobs of power at idle. So I'm going to stick with it, and
just fit my new stereo install into it's output.

Thanks everyone for your advice here. I now know a lot more about the
various trade offs in alternator upgrade options.

-Ryan

On 5/20/06, rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com> wrote:
> Ryan,
>
> It may seem a dumb question but do you really NEED a 180 Amp alternator? In
> general the higher the Amperage output the higher the RPM that is required
> to trigger the regulator into the charge mode. Also the greater the wear and
> tear on your poor alternator belt which DeLorean's are already known to shed
> somewhat often. It probably won't start to charge much before 2000 RPM
> making it impractical for anything but straight highway use. Short of major
> power robbing accessories I personally think an 110A alternator is the best
> optional size for the DeLorean. Why are you stuffing an alternator into your
> car that is so oversized compared to your cars actual requirements? Am I
> missing something or are you having a "mine is bigger than yours" contest
> with someone? :) Just kidding...OK!
>
> Rob Grady,
>
> P.J.Grady Inc.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Ryan Wright
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 4:10 AM
> To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Alternator upgrade troubles
>
> Folks,
>
> I bought & installed a new 4-wire 180amp alternator tonight. It's
> mounted up great and the belt is turning it just fine but I'm getting
> NO power from it! I could really use some advice...
>
> I had an original motorola alternator. There were only two connections
> to it: The main power feed (8 cables going into 2 ring connectors
> hooked up to the primary "batt" terminal on the alternator) and a
> brown wire that goes hot with the ignition on, which I assume is the
> sense for the regulator.
>
> There were NO other wires connected to my Motorola. I was instructed
> to hook up a yellow wire for the lamp light to the "L" terminal on the
> new 4-wire plug. I looked all over the place but couldn't find a
> yellow wire, nor any loose wires whatsoever.
>
> So, I mounted the alternator, connected the main power wires to the
> primary power terminal and connected the red "S" wire on the new
> 4-wire plug to the brown wire. I left the other three wires in the new
> 4-wire plug disconnected.
>
> I get nothing. Zero voltage output. :(
>
> Any ideas?? If it's just the lack of connecting the "L" wire, can
> someone tell me where in the world I should start looking for that
> wire? Where does it go or route from? Which wire loom does it come out
> of? As I said I looked all over the place, it's not to be found
> anywhere...
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> -Ryan

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Message 12 
    From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:31pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: John De Loreans Book?

Thats ok I found it on Amazon!

Nick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" <Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com>
To: "DOC UK Newsgroup" <doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; "DMC Newsgroup" 
<dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; "Chris Parnham" <secretary_at_dml_deloreans.co.uk>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 12:57 AM
Subject: [doc] John De Loreans Book?


Does anyone know where I can buy it?

Thanks.
Nick





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Message 13 
    From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:31pm(PDT) 
Subject: DMCH performance exhaust

Well i got my system finally installed and i must say it sounds pretty 
good and looks great. However i have had too many problems that i 
wouldn't expect on having spent $1500 on an exhaust kit.

No instructions, had to look at other pictures of installs to see how 
things went.

Have fun removing your starter at a later date if it goes bad.

Had to drill holes bigger because the holes that were in the hanger 
plates didnt line up to the PRV block.

Had to sand down all hanger mounts due to the thick coating of Jet Hot 
on them prevented them from fitting in the bushings.

Muffler heat shield holes didnt match up to mounts on muffler, had to 
make holes oblong on the heat shield and use bigger washers to correct 
this problem.

No exhaust gaskets, had to call Houston and have them mail me a set 
that should have been included with the system.

No sheets on how to warranty and take care of the finish of the Jet Hot 
coating, had to call Houston to get these sheets that should have been 
included with the system.

Had to buy heat tubing to protect all my starter wires from the headers 
since they are rather close to the wires now.

Cheap metal exhaust clamps that will rust are included with the system, 
should be stainless with that $1500 price tag. I will buy my own to 
make it look and last the way it should.

For a $1500 system i wouldn't expect these problems. I have spent far 
less on other systems with no problems.

Hopefully DMCH will correct all these problems with their future kits.

I still will recommend this kit to anyone i talk to because it is just 
that nice.

Mark V





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Message 14 
    From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:32pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: John De Loreans Book?

Look on EBay! They always show up from time to time, just search for 
delorean.

Mark V



On May 21, 2006, at 6:57 PM, Nicholas Jedrzejewski wrote:

> Does anyone know where I can buy it?
>
> Thanks.
> Nick




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Message 15 
    From: "Ken Baker" kenbaker1265_at_dml_msn.com
    Date: Sun May 21, 2006 6:33pm(PDT) 
Subject: Re: John De Loreans Book?

I have seen it being offered for sale on EBay. My copy is signed by JZD so it will never be offered there! If you cant find it, I would suggest calling DMCH, they seem to know how to find anything DeLorean related. 

Best Regards, 

Ken Baker
Sales Executive
Rolls-Royce/Bentley Fort Lauderdale
561-866-1601
www.bentleyfortlauderdale.com<http://www.bentleyfortlauderdale.com/>
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Nicholas Jedrzejewski<mailto:Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com> 
  To: DOC UK Newsgroup<mailto:doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> ; DMC Newsgroup<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> ; Chris Parnham<mailto:secretary_at_dml_deloreans.co.uk> 
  Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 7:57 PM
  Subject: [DML] John De Loreans Book?


  Does anyone know where I can buy it?

  Thanks.
  Nick





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Message 16 
    From: "Nicholas Jedrzejewski" Nick_at_dml_jedrzejewski.plus.com
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:44am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: John De Loreans Book?

I found it on Amazon.co.uk for 2 pounds.

YAY!
Nick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DMCVIN6683" <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 1:11 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] John De Loreans Book?


> Look on EBay! They always show up from time to time, just search for
> delorean.
>
> Mark V
>
>
>
> On May 21, 2006, at 6:57 PM, Nicholas Jedrzejewski wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know where I can buy it?





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Message 17 
    From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:46am(PDT) 
Subject: Raffle Car Update

I took some pictures of the raffle car today. Its been so hectic that I  
finally had a chance to take a few more pictures.
 
We are going to Eurofest (not the car) on Wed so I will try to get them up  
by then.
The car looks great and runs even greater.
 
I took time to clean off the road dust that has accumulated on it from me  
driving it so it is now detailed and clean.
 
Replaced the washer motor and redid the trunk access covers so they would  
look nicer for the show.
 
This is a great little runner, strong engine and tranny and it looks  nice.  
We added the dealer stripe to the car.  I like the stripe so  its on this one.
 
Sales are moving along and maybe the lucky winner will be at the  show.
 
It will be driven up to Chicago on Wed the 16th and will probably be at  Dave 
S place until Thursday morning. Then it will be at Pheasant Run.
 
We plan for it to go on the driving tour on Friday then it will be in the  
Vin Lineup and of course at the show for regraining on Sat and to the new owner  
on Saturday Night.
 
I am going to miss this car. Now I want an automatic
It really makes you appreciat the automatic once you get used to  it.  Now I 
am going to have to buy another so I can drive it more :-) 
 
Anyway I am now down to 4 DeLoreans and after June 17th it will be 3.
So I think the honor of most DeLoreans goes back to Rich.
 
Good luck on the raffle.
 
Registration keeps plodding along if you have a room remember to event  
register.
We are only going to take reservations until I think its the 12th or so of  
June then it closes up
so I can get to the show.
 
Ken
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 18 
    From: "wingd2_at_dml_aol.com" wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:47am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Fan Fix - New Solution

  In my opinion, one of the best solutions we ever had to the Delorean 
cooling fan problems was FanZilla. And anyone who was lucky enough to get one when 
they were available will probably agree. Unfortunately, Fanzilla has not been 
available for many years (and NO, mine is Not for sale) 
   Well, I may be a little early with this info, but we've had a club member, 
who is also an electrical engineer, working on this for a couple of years now 
and he has designed and built what might be considered a next generation type 
cooling fan unit. It's NOT a copy of FZ, it's his own version/solution to our 
cooling fan problems, but it is a simple, self contained, plug and play type 
setup that works great and is very cool, to say the least.
   For about the last six months some of our club members have been running a few 
prototype versions of this unit on their cars to get some real world testing 
and feedback, and the results have been great. I think the Delorean community 
once again will have a well designed, engineered and produced unit that will be 
available to us as a solution to our cooling fan problems.
   Production of these units is currently in process and a test/review 
article of this new product is in the current issue of Gullwing Magazine (which 
should be out in the next week). This new product will be on display and available 
for sale at the upcoming Delorean Car Show in Chicago in just a few weeks. I 
don't know if pre-orders are going to be accepted, but I do know the quantity 
of available units at the show will be somewhat limited.
   Up until now, the design, building and testing of these units has been 
kept very low key, to make sure everything is going to perform and work as 
intended. And the goal has always been to introduce this new unit at the Chicago car 
show, which is what is going to happen. With the current conversations on the 
DML about problems with currently available units going on, I just wanted to 
let everyone on the list know they only need to wait a few more weeks to once 
again be able to obtain a well designed and built solution to an all too 
common Delorean problem.

   Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 19 
    From: "Wayne Wagner" dmc-2447_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:47am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: wobbly steering wheel

I'm getting the same thing happening with my steering wheel while 
braking.  Haven't dug too deep into the issue yet... but I plan on 
replacing the rotors/pads/flex-brake-lines hopefully this driving season.

Never thought about checking the torques... will have to look at that next.

-Wayne / VIN2447
Grayslake, IL


Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> Hey group,
>  
> A couple weeks ago I posted saying that my steering wheel turns back and  
> forth a few degrees while braking, indicating possibly warped rotors.   Today I 
> took the rotors off and wanted to get them turned.  Too bad they  are already 
> at minimum thickness... guess I'll have to order some new rotors  up.  On the 
> other hand, after I reassembled everything, the wheel shimmy  went away.  The 
> shop manual says to torque the calipers to 55 lbs, and I am  positive they were 
> quite a bit below that when I removed them, so perhaps that  was the cause?  
> Just in case anyone else has a similar problem.
>  
> Andy
>  
> Fargo, ND  
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
>   






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Message 20 
    From: "jedimasterglenn" jedimasterglenn_at_dml_comcast.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:47am(PDT) 
Subject: Starting Problem...help

My car has been starting and running fine.  Today though, after 
making a stop, I couldn't get it started.  Engine turned, but 
wouldn't fire.  I tried starting it 3 times every 10 mins for an 
hour (to see if it might be a warm start or cold start problem).  
Each time it would sputter on the first key turn (as though it 
wanted to start), then the engine would just turn the other 2 
times.  So I gave up and had it towed home.  After the tow truck 
left, I tried it again for kicks and...presto, it starts.  What the 
heck?!?

When I went to start it the first time, my foot wasn't all the way 
down on the clutch and the car lurched forward a tiny bit (as it was 
in gear).  I can't think why this would cause a starting issue...but 
what do I know.  Sound like the symptoms of anything?  2 months ago 
I had extensive work done to the fuel system (replaced the pump, 
filter, warm up regulator, cold start valve, thermal time switch, 
plugs and wires, and basically had the remainder of the fuel system 
professionally cleaned up by a specialty car shop).  It's been fine 
till now.  I also put in a new starter and altenator.  Battery is 
fine.

And for the record, banging your head on the steering wheel to start 
a D like Marty does in BTTF doesn't always work.  I tried...  

-Glenn
5391 
           









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Message 21 
    From: "birdwell77095" birdwells_at_dml_usa.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:47am(PDT) 
Subject: Stuck Screw Holding Washer Reservoir Basket

I'm trying to get to the windshield washer reservoir by the front left 
wheel. There are about 10 bolts to remove from the plastic basket that 
holds the reservoir. I can't get one of the bolts out as it will not 
screw out. It simply turns. How does one get it out? I've tried prying 
a screwdriver between the lip of the basket and the underbody to the 
point that I'm afraid of breaking the basket. Anybody had this problem 
and what do I do to get the screw out?

Shannon
VIN 16113









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Message 22 
    From: "Joe OBrien" joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 7:48am(PDT) 
Subject: blue anti-freeze??

I saw a seller advertise a Delorean saying it had the original blue
antifreeze in it?

Is it true the Delorean had blue antifreeze from the factory, or is
this guy just another moron?

I never heard of blue antifreeze being original in Deloreans before.

-Joe










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Message 23 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 10:29am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: wobbly steering wheel

If you do not properly torque the wheel studs and/or you do not
alternate the tighening pattern you can distort the hub and the rotor.
The "proper" way to install a wheel is to first snug up the 4 lugnuts.
If you wanted to be extra careful you could first torque to 1/2 the
specified torque alternating which nuts you tightne ie, 1,3,2,4. The
you can follow up with the specified torque again in an alternating
pattern. Recheck after driving.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> Hey group,
>  
> A couple weeks ago I posted saying that my steering wheel turns back
and  
> forth a few degrees while braking, indicating possibly warped r









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Message 24 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 10:30am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Alternator upgrade troubles

There are several reasons why it doesn't make sense to increase the
size of an alternator in a car above a certain point. The belt that
drives it, the current carrying capacity of the wires, the capacity of
the battery, and the calculated load, just to name a few. Another
problem is that alternators are an "on or off" type of device. They
cannot modulate in response to load. A 180 amp alternator cannot
generate that kind of power at idle so it has a "set point" where it
won't charge until a certain RPM. Generally the lower the output the
lower the RPM that it can start charging. It is also a function of
load by the way of the voltage on the system. Think of the alternator
and the battery as complementary power sources. They work differently
but complement each other and need to be balanced to each other. An
electrical system is a SYSTEM and you cannot make radical changes by
swapping out one part without considering the system as a whole.
Unless you are running huge loads there is no need to oversize the
alternator. In theory the purpose of an alternator is to recharge the
battery after the starting cycle and to handle "base loads". The
battery is there to help with short, peak loads, like at idle with the
lights and the A/C on at a stop light for a short period of time.
Putting a smaller pulley on "fools" the alternator into thinking the
motor is running faster than it really is. It also has less surface
for the belt to grab so it could slip and you overspeed the alternator
which can cause premature failure. BTW a bigger alternator will also
generate more heat which reduces the current carrying capacity of the
wiring. Everything is a balance of trade-offs. Bigger is not always
better.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Rob & others for your replies. This issue has been resolved
(see below).
> 
> 1. Why 180 amp? I had two concerns in wanting to upgade. The first was
> voltage drop at idle - the stock Motorola left my headlights dim at
> idle. The second concern was to provide power for a higher output
> stereo install.
> 








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Message 25 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Mon May 22, 2006 10:30am(PDT) 
Subject: Re: Starting Problem...help

Since it eventually did start I am going to guess that you don't have
any "bad" parts like a fuel pump or ignition coil. I believe your
problem will turn out to be a bad connection in either the fuel system
or the electrical system. Hard to be able to narrow it down. Next time
it won't start you have to see if you have spark. Then at least you
will know which system to go through. I would also go over all the
recent work to make sure it was done correctly assuming you did not
have this problem before doing this recent work.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jedimasterglenn"
<jedimasterglenn_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> My car has been starting and running fine.  Today though, after 
> making a stop, I couldn't get it started.  Engine turned, but 
> wouldn't fire.  I tried starting it 3 times every 10 mins for an 
> hour (to see if it might be a warm start or cold start problem).  
> Each time it would sputter on the first key turn (as though it 
> wanted to start), then the engine would just turn the other 2 
> times.  So I gave up and had it towed home.  After the tow truck 
> left, I tried it again for kicks and...presto, it starts.  What the 
> heck?!?
> 
> When I went to start it the first time, my foot wasn't all the way 
> down on the clutch and the car lurched forward a tiny bit (as it was 
> in gear).  I can't think why this would cause a starting issue...but 
> what do I know.  Sound like the symptoms of anything?  2 months ago 
> I had extensive work done to the fuel system (replaced the pump, 
> filter, warm up regulator, cold start valve, thermal time switch, 
> plugs and wires, and basically had the remainder of the fuel system 
> professionally cleaned up by a specialty car shop).  It's been fine 
> till now.  I also put in a new starter and altenator.  Battery is 
> fine.
> 
> And for the record, banging your head on the steering wheel to start 
> a D like Marty does in BTTF doesn't always work.  I tried...  
> 
> -Glenn
> 5391
>









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