From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 2:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3262

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Nice write-up of 'Looking Back at the Future'
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com

2. Re: Fuel Filter Replacement
From: "Travis Graham" tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com

3. Ubder the dash
From: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net

4. left front fender for sale...
From: "timnagin" timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com

5. distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition
From: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com

6. Re: Is this my door lock key code?
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

7. Interior light issue
From: "Michael Babb" mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com

8. Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition
From: "Matt Spittle" matthew.spittle_at_dml_gmail.com

9. Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition
From: "delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com" delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com

10. Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

11. Re: Ubder the dash
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

12. Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition
From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com

13. Clock - Faded and Ugly
From: "tuxr" tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com

14. Turbo to non-turbo conversion
From: "Dirt Ronin" resdog_at_dml_westol.com

15. regulator problem?
From: "Cameron, Peter" cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov

16. Letting people use our cars
From: "coreysmoo" coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com



Message 1
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com
Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:18am(PDT)
Subject: Nice write-up of 'Looking Back at the Future'

SpielbergFilms.com did a splendid article on the upcoming documentary "Looking Back at the Future" which premieres at DCS-06 on Friday, June 16th at 3:00 PM:

http://www.spielbergfilms.com/general/873









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Message 2 
    From: "Travis Graham" tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:18am(PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter Replacement

I just got through replacing my fuel filter (suspected to be clogged due to a failed accumulator) and ran into some problems.  I was replacing an OEM Bosch filter with another OEM Bosch filter, both of which I obtained from a full-service DeLorean vendor (so, it should work).

I got the new filter on and the car would not start.  When jumping the cold start valve, the car would run, so I know that some fuel was getting past, but apparently not enough to get to the main injectors.  Before I hooked up the pressure gauge, I noticed that the 90-degree adapter on the  fuel filter inlet was completely inserted into the filter, which was not the case on the old filter (and IIRC, not the case on the filter before that).  I took everything apart and discovered that when this 90-degree adapter finds its way completely into the filter, fuel is choked by the inner bulb of the filter canister.

A few photos to illustrate the problem: http://tinyurl.com/l89vy

Another new filter (Bosch OEM) solved my problem and after addressing a fuel leak on that pesky rigid line-to-90 degree adapter connection (why is that connection always so difficult?!), I'm back on the road.  I don't know why the adapter had to be fully inserted on the bad filter in order to tighten down.  I did a search to see if anyone else had this problem and apparently I'm not alone.  I found Dave's post below and another post reporting that there's a Purolator filter that solves the inner-bulb problem and works fine.  I guess I can't remember posts from 8 years ago.

Bottom line: you have to leave enough space between the adapter and the inner bulb in the fuel filter to let the fuel flow, or else your car isn't going to run.  I used a couple of wraps of Teflon tape to ensure there were no leaks and just kept it away from the edge that would be inside the filter.

Travis Graham
#6344


On Wed 2, 1998, at 8:04 PM, David Swingle wrote:

> I replaced my filter with the proper Bosch filter from a recognized 
> supplier. Immediately afterwards, the car would not start. After a 
> little investigation, I realized that the inlet (maybe the outlet - it 
> has been over a year) fitting was bottoming out into the line 
> connection and choking off the fuel. Apparently the spec on the depth 
> of the filter fitting has changed slightly over the years.
>
> To fix it I cut a four grooves with a hacksaw across the face of the 
> fitting on the filter (watch for metal filings). Problem solved. Has 
> anyone else run into this?
>
> Dave Swingle





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Message 3 
    From: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:19am(PDT)
Subject: Ubder the dash

All,

I have spent most of the day under my dash installing a new NAV unit into the car.  I found a whole bunch of PO fixes/modifications, that I have now unfixed/repaired, but I found a connector under the drivers side that isn't connected to anything.  Multiple purple wires running to it, anyone know what it's for?  Possibly a auto trans connector?

4045 has been seriously worked on before in the electrical system, you wouldn't believe the hack jobs under the dash, though they are pretty good hack jobs.

Bernie









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Message 4 
    From: "timnagin" timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:19am(PDT)
Subject: left front fender for sale...

I thought I would offer this to the group before putting it on eBay.  The fender is in very good condition, but has a slight bend below the turn signal opening. It is not creased and I am sure it could be removed very easily.  I had stainless panels repaired that were in much worse condition and am keeping those and letting this one go.  A few pictures can be seen at http://home.mindspring.com/~timnagin and if there is something else specific you want to see about this panel just let me know.  Please feel free to contact me off list.

If you are going to DCS I can bring it with me and save you money on shipping.

 

Greg

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message 5 
    From: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:20am(PDT)
Subject: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

this weekend's project is putting the engine topside back together on
3441 (well at least attempting to)

in the process of re-assembling most of the sub-assemblies, the question of lubricating the ignition and fuel distributors have come up

the fuel distributor plunger seems to be lubricated with oil, and possibly the roller on the counterweight arm


I seem to recall that ignition advance weights are lubricated with grease, there is some evidence of 25-year old grease having been flung off inside the (lower) advance-weight portion of the distributor

also, there is a foam pad inside the shaft below the ignition rotor that is dry as a bone that seems like it is supposed to be oiled to provide lubrication to the inner/outer distributor shafts


advice on any or all of the above please? 


as an interesting aside, there is only 1 advance weight return spring
- spring stiffness and qty is one of the various spark advance variables/adjustments, just curious if one spring is typical on the PRV

thanks, Cliff





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Message 6 
    From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:26pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Is this my door lock key code?

Thankyou James.  So obviously what I found is not the key code :(

Nathan
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Early door lock key codes start WR3XXX or WR5XXX. Later style locks 
> (doors and ignition) are W7XXX...
> 
> James
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message 7 
    From: "Michael Babb" mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:27pm(PDT)
Subject: Interior light issue

Here is the situation - open the passenger door, and the door lights and the interior lights come on as they should - close the door, you have the delay as the lights turn them selves off . . .all is good.

Get to the drivers side, and when you open the door, the door lights come on, but no interior lights. :(  any idea of where to check to ensure that the wires that go from the door switch to the lights has not been disconnected? (or any other suggestions??)

Michael

VIN 3472






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Message 8 
    From: "Matt Spittle" matthew.spittle_at_dml_gmail.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:27pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

Cliff, 

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/Ignition-distributor-spring.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/qzdr2

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> this weekend's project is putting the engine topside back together on
> 3441 (well at least attempting to)
> 
> in the process of re-assembling most of the sub-assemblies, the 
> question of lubricating the ignition and fuel distributors have come 
> up
> 
> the fuel distributor plunger seems to be lubricated with oil, and 
> possibly the roller on the counterweight arm
> 
> 
> I seem to recall that ignition advance weights are lubricated with 
> grease, there is some evidence of 25-year old grease having been flung 
> off inside the (lower) advance-weight portion of the distributor
> 
> also, there is a foam pad inside the shaft below the ignition rotor 
> that is dry as a bone that seems like it is supposed to be oiled to 
> provide lubrication to the inner/outer distributor shafts
> 
> 
> advice on any or all of the above please? 
> 
> 
> as an interesting aside, there is only 1 advance weight return spring
> - spring stiffness and qty is one of the various spark advance 
> variables/adjustments, just curious if one spring is typical on the 
> PRV
> 
> thanks, Cliff
>









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Message 9 
    From: "delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com" delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:27pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

 There is only one spring and the weights are also different. The one minus the spring has extra material spot welded to it. I tried experimenting with a Volvo B27 that has equal weights with equal springs on each weight. I wanted to get the two distributors compared but finally gave up finding a shop that still has an advance machine so I drove from Minnesota to the Houston open house last summer with the B27 distributor. The engine felt like it had more torque using the B27 distributor and pulled better in all gears from low speeds but it didn't feel like it revved as freely. In the end I re-installed the original DeLorean distributor.

Bruce Benson


> as an interesting aside, there is only 1 advance weight return spring
> - spring stiffness and qty is one of the various spark advance 
> variables/adjustments, just curious if one spring is typical on the 
> PRV
>
> thanks, Cliff
> 






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Message 10 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:28pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

You do not lubricate anything inside the fuel metering unit. There is a special grease you can get that is supposed to be very sticky and stay on the parts for the spark advance. The felt inside the distibuter shaft should be soaked with motor oil and oiled with a couple of drops of motor oil whnever you change the motor oil. I just put a couple of drops on whenever I pull the dist cap.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> this weekend's project is putting the engine topside back together on
> 3441 (well at least attempting to)
> 
> in the process of re-assembling most of the sub-assemblies, the 
> question of lubricating the ignition and fuel distributors have come
>








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Message 11 
    From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:28pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: Ubder the dash

If it is a round looking white connector it is probably the connector for the clock on the early vin's. It can be an excellant point to pick up power and ground if you add electrical accessories. Don't draw too heavy on it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bernie" <bmanderville_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> All,
> 
> I have spent most of the day under my dash installing a new NAV unit 
> into the car.  I found a whole bunch of PO fixes/modifications, that I 
> have now unfixed/repaired, but I found a connector under the drivers 
> side that isn't connected to anything.  Multiple purple wires running 
> t








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Message 12 
    From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:28pm(PDT)
Subject: Re: distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

Hi Cliff,

The fuel plunger & counterweight roller require no special lub other than the gas they're exposed to but a small shot of WD40 on reassembly won't hurt as both can get a little sticky with older gas.

You can use a tiny bit of brake caliper grease on the ign dist advance weights, if you wish to, and you should saturate the advance cam fiber pad with light machine oil with every tune-up. 

P.S. The only reason I'm here at work on a holiday weekend is to kill time while waiting to pick up my mom from Sunday mass. I have a life too you know!


Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cliff Schmucker
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 10:48 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] distributor lubrication: fuel and ignition

this weekend's project is putting the engine topside back together on
3441 (well at least attempting to)

in the process of re-assembling most of the sub-assemblies, the question of lubricating the ignition and fuel distributors have come up

the fuel distributor plunger seems to be lubricated with oil, and possibly the roller on the counterweight arm


I seem to recall that ignition advance weights are lubricated with grease, there is some evidence of 25-year old grease having been flung off inside the (lower) advance-weight portion of the distributor

also, there is a foam pad inside the shaft below the ignition rotor that is dry as a bone that seems like it is supposed to be oiled to provide lubrication to the inner/outer distributor shafts


advice on any or all of the above please? 


as an interesting aside, there is only 1 advance weight return spring
- spring stiffness and qty is one of the various spark advance variables/adjustments, just curious if one spring is typical on the PRV

thanks, Cliff





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Message 13 
    From: "tuxr" tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:29pm(PDT) 
Subject: Clock - Faded and Ugly

My clock is faded/frosted, really takes away from an otherwise 
beautiful interior.  Anybody have any suggestions on how to make it 
look better, a short term fix until I figure out the best long term 
solution.  How about painting it black, just to blend it in.  If so, 
what paint matches the best. Would be nice to paint it black, then put 
on the DMC logo similar to the pieces used on the door sill, anyone 
know where to get small ones like that.  Any suggestions?








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Message 14 
    From: "Dirt Ronin" resdog_at_dml_westol.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:29pm(PDT) 
Subject: Turbo to non-turbo conversion

I have an 81 Delorean with an Island twin turbo kit.  There is a lot 
of rust in the exhausts from sitting and instead of replacing the 
Island exhaust - I was thikning about installing a regular 
muffler/ehaust and removing the turbo kit completely.  Does anyone 
foresee any problems or have any advice?

Thanks - 









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Message 15 
    From: "Cameron, Peter" cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:32pm(PDT) 
Subject: regulator problem?

My car (vin 3579) has been running fine (with expert attention from Rob Grady every now and then) since it came into my possession almost two years ago, has been a reliable daily driver, and I'm very happy with it. But...
 
Couple days ago I noticed that voltage was dropping when I would turn on lights, fans,..., revving engine did not bring it back up. Normally voltage is just above the 13V mark on the voltmeter in the instrument cluster. It was dropping close to the orange mark midway between the 8V and 13V lines. Not good, I was thinking. Parked it for the nite.
 
Yesterday (Saturday) morning when I started it the alternator kicked in, voltage came up where it was supposed to be. Oh fine I'm thinking, an intermittent. Drove it out to get some breakfast. On the return trip voltage again was sagging, alternator would not kick in. Had to make the 25 mile drive in to work in the afternoon, so charged up the battery and went for it. Voltage sagged for the whole drive, except briefly at the start of the return trip alternator kicked in for a few seconds. 
 
Appears to me to be a regulator problem. I looked back thru the records from the previous owner, found no indication that the alternator had been replaced. It has the 90A Motorola. Any point in trying to chase this down, or should I just buy a new alternator? Any good ideas, advice,...?
 




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Message 16 
    From: "coreysmoo" coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com
    Date: Sun May 28, 2006 6:33pm(PDT) 
Subject: Letting people use our cars

I got a note on my windsheild wiper today while my D was parked at a 
movie theater.  The note is from a musician who would like to use my 
car for the cover of a CD.  Has anyone ever lent their car for 
anything like this?  What would be customary/reasonable to ask for in 
return?  I would probably drive the car there and all they want to do 
is take pictures of and with the car, so no one else will probably 
need to drive it.  I just have not done anything like this and don't 
quite know how to go about it.

The note reads as...

"Hi!  My name is Melissa and I'm a musician based in Chicago.  I'm 
looking for a unique vehicle to include in the cover photography for 
my album.  Your car wound be PERFECT!  Please e-mail me as soon as 
possible if you are interested."

Corey
2423









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