Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3267

There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Greenwich Concours This Weekend
From: "David Teitelbaum"

2. Re: AC Rubber tubing
From: "sweetp01569"

3. Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do
From: "Nelson, Allan"

4. Windshield washer motor removal
From: "Hank"

5. DCS Caravans - for those East of Chicago*
From: "Shannon Yocom"

6. Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th
From: "Lawrence Lormand"

7. Re: More Free Advertising of DCS 2006 in several Great Lakes states
From: "d_rex_2002"

8. Delorean Caravan from Michigan & East Coast
From: "Lawrence Lormand"

9. Overheating question
From: "Tom Tait"

Message: 1
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 1:10 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum"
Subject: Greenwich Concours This Weekend


A reminder about the show some call the "East Coast Pebble Beach" I am invited to display my car Sunday. More details can be found at David Teitelbaum vin 10757


Message: 2
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 1:16 pm (PDT)
From: "sweetp01569"
Subject: Re: AC Rubber tubing


Thanks for the great replies.  I didn't do the conversion.  It was done by the previous owner in March of 2004 (about a year before I bough the car).  The record shows he bought a $34 R134A conversion kit.  This doesn't sound like he replaced any major parts, does it?  
How extensive is a "kit"? I think I should probably change the tubes and major components that I am able to, then bring it to the shop for final tweaking and refilling.  Is that reasonable, or are there other items to be aware of when replacing components?



--- In, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_...> wrote:
> The spliced lines are quite nice for ease of install.  Andy is
> that the hardest part is getting the low pressure line through the 
> frame by the gas tank (which really wasn't that hard).  It helped 
> having Andy assist me, in that I could bend down the frame slightly 
> (not a permenent bend, just a flex) and guide the end over the tank 
> plate nuts while Andy actually pushed it through.  It can also be 
> difficult to separate the nuts and the lines.  You need to spend
> on a 32mm, 27mm, and 22mm wrench.  19mm is also necessary but I 
> already had one of those.  There is not much room to work the
> but it is possible (hey, they got them on there didn't they?). On
> first car I did a few years ago, I could not separate the high 
> pressure line from the evaporator.  I got the nuts apart, but the 
> lines would not disconnect.  With more time they probably could
> come apart, but I didn't have any then.  My car which I'm in
> with was no problem.  If your doing all this, replace the
> and orifice tube as well (unless you did that with your original 
> conversion).
> Other misc. notes....
> Be sure to keep the main high pressure line away from the steering 
> shaft.  Many owners have had sudden AC failure when this hose was
> through by the shaft.
> Also, John Hervey has not been as responsive as he has been in the 
> past.  When I made my original order almost everything came as it 
> should.  I emailed him many general questions about the parts and
> that were missing, no responce.  I called him a few times then 
> eventually got through to him to get one of the parts that didn't 
> arrive, but I still dont have the other one yet.
> When I arrive in Chicago, every component in my A/C system will be 
> brand new except for the evaporator, which I removed and throughly 
> cleaned.
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC6960
> --- In, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I had my R134A recharged last summer, and the AC felt nice and
cold at 
> > that time  This year, I really don't feel any cold air coming
> > and the compressor just turns on and off for about a second
every 5 
> > seconds or so.  I suspect my charge is gone.  I read that older
> > rubber tubing (I suspect those that run under my car are
> > will actually let the R134A pass through the molecules of
> > resulting in a slow leak over the winter.  Is this true?  If so,
is it 
> > worth investing in Special T's spliced tubing (I don't have time
> > patience to lift the car body to replace with whole sections)
> > replacing the long runs under the car?  Can I just replace them
> > myself, or do I need an AC shop to evacuate any remaining R134A
> > safety/environmental reasons - or is there not enought to worry
> > if I open and replace the tubing before I bring to an AC shop to 
> > recharge?  Any advice on this subject is appreciated.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul
> > Vin 10944
> >


Message: 3
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 1:18 pm (PDT)
From: "Nelson, Allan"
Subject: Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do


*** Moderator's note *** A good story with a point & counterpoint. Now back to our regularly scheduled DeLorean programming...

The C6 does have manual releases for the doors in case of electrical failure.  They are located on the floor between the seat and door (for use if you're in the vehicle) and just inside the rear hatch/trunk (which can be opened manually with the key) if you're outside the car.  FYI...


-----Original Message-----
From: []On Behalf Of Erik Geerdink
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Doors. sides hurt from laughing so hard....I'm sorry for your bad experience in a C6.....but that story made my day!!!!   A guy I work with at the fire department has a C6.  Nice looking car.  I never took notice of the doors though.  I'll have to check it out.
Great story! thanks for sharing.

therealdmcvegas <> wrote:
  --- In, "Ryan Wright" 
> Robert,
> On 5/29/06, therealdmcvegas wrote:
> > I have a long list of reasons why I don't like the Corvette 
> > (including a door malfuction in a C6 where I got trapped inside the 
> > car)
> Yet you drive a DeLorean?!!?? ;-)
> -Ryan

It sounds funny, I know. But I've never been trapped inside of my DeLorean, nor anyone elses. And the only time I've ever seen a DeLorean door get jammed, was either because of the outer door handle getting pre-tensioned, or a forigen object getting caught in the door. And to release stuck doors isn't a problem. You just press down on the interior handle, and then you can unlock the doors. 
Simple as pie. And if you've got an early car with no guide blocks, you just have to push a bit harder. They don't pose a threat in the least.

Now, let met explain my nightmare with the C6 Corvette.

First, you've got to know how the doors work (this is boring, but vital to my story). Your regular car and truck door has a Striker Pin, or Loop mounted to the door frame. You then have the latch assembly that is mounted inside the door. To open the door, you simply pull on either the internal, or external door handles. These are physically connected to the door latch by various cables, and connecting rods, and the latch will release the Striker Pin. Same with the locking mechanisim. The lock is actually contained within that latch on the door, and to lock/unlock the latch, is the same process. Power door locks are simply solenoids, or actuators that pull and push on the rods connected to the door latch.

The DeLorean is not unique from any other car on the road. It just happens to have a 2nd latch in the front section of the door, and has extra rods to make it function as well.

Now, let's talk about the Death Trap called the C6 Corvette.

The C6 Corvette has a backwards configuration on it's doors. The striker pins are mounted on the doors, and the latches are hidden INSIDE THE BODY! So, to open the doors, you don't pull a handle. You instead press a button, that in turn activates a solenoid, and pulls the latch for you, to open the doors. This applies to both inside the car, as well as outside. The way that the C6 locks it's doors to prevent theft is that IT DISABLES THE OPEN DOOR BUTTONS!

Now that sounds like an innovative idea on the surface, doesn't it? 
Hide the door locks inside of the car body, so theives can't jimmy the locks. Plan B incase your batter dies, is that you can open the rear hatch glass with your key, and tug on an emergency cable to physically open the drivers door. It's all the way in the back of the *luxurious* felt-lined trunk, next to the fuel release.

Yeah, that's nice and all, but what happens if I'm in a severe accident, where the wiring harness to the doors is severed, and I get trapped inside a burning car where I die in an inferno? What if I get trapped in rising flood water, or drive into a flooded ditch or river, and water FUBARS my entire electrical system, and I drown because I can't get out? What if I'm in the car, and the fickin' 
alarm goes off, and I get trapped inside?!?! Which is exactly what happened to me!

Now, I'm a big guy, admittedly. But I'm also limber. I've never had a problem sliding over the center console between seats in my DeLorean. However, in the Corvette, I was totally trapped. My first instinct being a DeLorean guy trapped in a car is to raise up, and kick the glass out. However, the Corvette had me so trapped, I couldn't get my knee past the steering wheel. Not even the power, telescopic steering colum worked any longer. Everything was disabled, including those damn door-open buttons! And the cockpit inside the Vette was so tight, I couldn't even raise my legs up. So there was no way I could reach that emergency release that was all the way in the trunk. After the alarm blared, and I started punching and slamming the car door, the GM guy finally took notice, and disabled the alarm, so that I could get out. Now incase you're wondering, yes, the Corvette locks it's doors with the factory alarm. I couldn't get out from the inside, and my buddy on the outside couldn't do it either. This was at one of those GM test track events, BTW. Not a car dealership.

I've seen Gullwing doors on the DeLorean get wedged shut. They just take a bit more "oomphf" to open. And when the locks do jamm, they're also easy to open. But no matter what, they're not as great a risk to my safety, as the Corvette C6 is. Hell, even the Bricklin
SV-1 had emergency cotterpins above your head that you could pull out, to get the doors open, incase the hydraulic system failed!

I won't ride in a C6, nor the Cadillac XLR it was badge-engineered from for an honest fear of my life. I don't trust that crap door lock design in the least bit if something happened. And knowing GM's penchant for defective designs, and numerous recalls, I doubt I'd have to even be in a serious accident for something to go wrong. But that's just my opinion.

vin 6585 "X"

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Message: 4
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:10 pm (PDT)
From: "Hank"
Subject: Windshield washer motor removal


My washer motor seems to have quit.  I'd like to get it replaced
before the trip to PR, but today, I go out to r/r the motor, and the
screws holding the plastic housing encasing the motor and reservoir
are rusted AND stripped.  I can't remove them.  What are the next
steps to get them off - there are ALOT of them, and not all accessible
with a vice-grip or other last-resort tools (or even a drill).

Also, is it safe to leave the car jacked up (I have a jack stand
supporting the left front of the car, on the frame, directly behind
the wheel and next to the (but not on) the towing loop welded to the
frame.  Or should I lower the car onto the tires and re-jack when

-Hank #1619


Message: 5
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:11 pm (PDT)
From: "Shannon Yocom"
Subject: DCS Caravans - for those East of Chicago*


As info comes in I've begun to post DCS Caravan meeting places/routes on the Ohio

Is there anyone in the DMA organizing groups that can give me info so I can post
for others who may want to meet up with you all along the way?

Shannon Y

Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 


Message: 6
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:11 pm (PDT)
From: "Lawrence Lormand"
Subject: Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th


From where? I'll be leaving Detroit,Michigan on the 14th if all goes 
well if not the 15th early.
Lawrence 00538

--- In, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_...> wrote:
> Who else is driving to chicago leaving on Wed evening the
> 14th or Thursday morning the 15th?
> regards,
> Michael
> vin6067


Message: 7
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:12 pm (PDT)
From: "d_rex_2002"
Subject: Re: More Free Advertising of DCS 2006 in several Great Lakes states


The FREE ads for DCS 2006 should be hitting the news stands
on Thursday, June 1 in all the states I previously listed,
with Kentucky now added to the list as well.  The ads list
DCS car show date (June 17) and Lake Shore Cruise (June 18).

For those of you not in the Great Lakes Region or if you do
not have the free Auto-RV magazine in your area, feel free
to check out the listing(s) on the website, although only
the ad with DCS car show date is currently listed, with the
link to the DeLorean Midwest Connection website, which was
intended for the Chicago Lake Shore Drive Cruise details.

Oh well, its free advertising and website viewers should be
able to find what they need to know with other DCS links.

The Auto-RV magazine website is:

Check the EVENTS link on the left side, then scroll down to
the June 17 list of car shows and select St. Charles, IL.

Rich W.

--- In, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
> FYI -
> The attendance for DCS 2006 may be "through the roof".
> The DCS website could be seeing hit rate increase of over
> 500,000 per week in the next few weeks from Illinois, Ohio,
> Indiana, Wisconsin and Michigan.  There will be at least
> 4 weeks of advertising which will potentially reach over
> 2 million potential viewers of ads for both the DCS 2006
> events and the DeLorean 25th Anniversary Chicago Cruise.
> Here's the following break-down on weekly circulation:
> Illinois...97,500
> Indiana...109,000
> West Ohio..99,000
> East Ohio..59,000
> Michigan...99,000
> Wisconsin..56,000
> Total.....519,500
> This does not include the publication's online website,
> which may have the ads posted as soon as later this week.
> More details to follow as the ads are posted online and
> in the printed publications later this month.
> Later,
> Rich W.


Message: 8
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:13 pm (PDT)
From: "Lawrence Lormand"
Subject: Delorean Caravan from Michigan & East Coast


How many Deloreans can we get together to caravan to Chicago?
Give me an email if we can do this on 15th Early.


Message: 9
Date: Wed May 31, 2006 7:15 pm (PDT)
From: "Tom Tait"
Subject: Overheating question


I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
have one of two problems.

Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
warped a head.  The car runs nicely for at least 30 minutes, then it
starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of the overflow which I
then replace and try to bleed again.

Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a longer drive on a
hot day and it blows again.  How can I tell the difference between
trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling system?

No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in the oil at the
dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.

I've had two friends with other cars blow head gaskets this month - so
I'm nervous - suggestions?



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