From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 7:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3268

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Air inlet screen
From: "tuxr" tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com

2. Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th
From: "Michael Paine" mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com

3. Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com

4. Re: Overheating question
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

5. Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do
From: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

6. Re: Overheating question
From: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

7. Re: Overheating question
From: "Patrick Conlon" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: AC Rubber tubing
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com

9. Re: Overheating question
From: "Chris Shepherd" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com

10. Re: Overheating question
From: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com

11. Re: Overheating question - part 2
From: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com

12. Re: AC Rubber tubing
From: "sweetp01569" paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com

13. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net

14. Re: BTTF at local Drive - BACK UP ALTERNATIVE BTTF Bar B Q
From: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com

15. Re: Free Advertising of post-DCS DeLorean Cruise (Volo Auto Museum)
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net

16. Re: AC Rubber tubing
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com

17. DCS- display space
From: "cupsdmc" cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com

18. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
From: "corey ooms" coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com

19. Stainless panel repair
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

20. Deloreans mentioned twice on www.rocketboom.com
From: "Hank" heskin_at_dml_gmail.com

21. Re: Overheating question
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com

22. Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do
From: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com

23. Re: BTTF screening Plan B (during DCS) is in the works
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net

24. Re: Overheating question
From: "Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd" martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk

25. Re: DCS- display space
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com




Message: 1
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:19 am (PDT)
From: "tuxr" tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com
Subject: Air inlet screen

 

Anyone have a used one they want to sell?  Contact me off list.  
Thanks.







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Message: 2
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:19 am (PDT)
From: "Michael Paine" mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com
Subject: Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th

 

leaving the NY/NJ area 10965

On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 00:04:39 -0000
  "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:
>>From where? I'll be leaving Detroit,Michigan on the 14th 
>>if all goes 
>well if not the 15th early.
>Lawrence 00538
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" 
><mpaine_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Who else is driving to chicago leaving on Wed evening 
>>the
>> 14th or Thursday morning the 15th?
>> 
>> regards,
>> 
>> Michael
>> vin6067
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, 
>please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale 
>see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>






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Message: 3
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:19 am (PDT)
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: Who's driving out on the 14th or 15th

 

I will be leaving from Wisconsin on the 14th.

Mark V


On May 31, 2006, at 7:04 PM, Lawrence Lormand wrote:

> From where? I'll be leaving Detroit,Michigan on the 14th if all goes
> well if not the 15th early.
> Lawrence 00538
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Who else is driving to chicago leaving on Wed evening the
>> 14th or Thursday morning the 15th?
>>
>> regards,
>>
>> Michael
>> vin6067
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 4
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:20 am (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

How are you bleeding out the air? The only proper way I know of is to
use a pressure tester to pressurize the system and then let the air
out at the small hose fitting on the top right side of the radiator
and the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. If you are trying to
do it by running the car and heating it up that is very "hit-or-miss".
A definitive test for a warped head and combustion gases is a
combustion gas tester. They are not expensive. You can also use the
coolant presssure tester. If you see the pressure shoot up quickly
that can be a sign of a blown head gasket too. If you are lucky? you
may not have warped the heads, only blown a gasket. Before tearing the
motor apart try bleeding it thourghly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
> 
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> w








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Message: 5
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:20 am (PDT)
From: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do

 

In all the years that I owned/drove/worked and looked at Deloreans
(22yrs) for sale NOT one time had I ever been locked in or out of a 
Delorean,or even had any problems with the doors. 
On the Vette,they do have one "extra" escape route,and that is by 
removing the roof panel/forcing the convertible top down(if its a 
convertible)or if it has a removable Hardtop forcing that off,and as 
for the Bricklin,not only does it have the removeable pins,But a 
release lever,right next to the drivers elbow,to open/release the 
hatch,so that you could exit through the hatch area if need be,and 
since it is THE only gullwinged car with full roll down windows,and 
non-power windows(safety),you could exit,through the lowered window 
area,a true SV car(the bricklin).
CBL
bricklin
vin#1024
for 26yrs
and still showcar
clean/perfect  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> > 
> > On 5/29/06, therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_> wrote:
> > > I have a long list of reasons why I don't like the
> > > Corvette (including a door malfuction in a C6 where I got 
trapped
> > > inside the car)
> > 
> > Yet you drive a DeLorean?!!?? ;-)
> > 
> > -Ryan
> >
> 
> 
> It sounds funny, I know. But I've never been trapped inside of my 
> DeLorean, nor anyone elses. And the only time I've ever seen a 
> DeLorean door get jammed, was either because of the outer door 
> handle getting pre-tensioned, or a forigen object getting caught in 
> the door. And to release stuck doors isn't a problem. You just 
press 
> down on the interior handle, and then you can unlock the doors. 
> Simple as pie. And if you've got an early car with no guide blocks, 
> you just have to push a bit harder. They don't pose a threat in the 
> least.
> 
> Now, let met explain my nightmare with the C6 Corvette.
> 
> First, you've got to know how the doors work (this is boring, but 
> vital to my story). Your regular car and truck door has a Striker 
> Pin, or Loop mounted to the door frame. You then have the latch 
> assembly that is mounted inside the door. To open the door, you 
> simply pull on either the internal, or external door handles. These 
> are physically connected to the door latch by various cables, and 
> connecting rods, and the latch will release the Striker Pin. Same 
> with the locking mechanisim. The lock is actually contained within 
> that latch on the door, and to lock/unlock the latch, is the same 
> process. Power door locks are simply solenoids, or actuators that 
> pull and push on the rods connected to the door latch.
> 
> The DeLorean is not unique from any other car on the road. It just 
> happens to have a 2nd latch in the front section of the door, and 
> has extra rods to make it function as well.
> 
> Now, let's talk about the Death Trap called the C6 Corvette.
> 
> The C6 Corvette has a backwards configuration on it's doors. The 
> striker pins are mounted on the doors, and the latches are hidden 
> INSIDE THE BODY! So, to open the doors, you don't pull a handle. 
You 
> instead press a button, that in turn activates a solenoid, and 
pulls 
> the latch for you, to open the doors. This applies to both inside 
> the car, as well as outside. The way that the C6 locks it's doors 
to 
> prevent theft is that IT DISABLES THE OPEN DOOR BUTTONS!
> 
> Now that sounds like an innovative idea on the surface, doesn't it? 
> Hide the door locks inside of the car body, so theives can't jimmy 
> the locks. Plan B incase your batter dies, is that you can open the 
> rear hatch glass with your key, and tug on an emergency cable to 
> physically open the drivers door. It's all the way in the back of 
> the *luxurious* felt-lined trunk, next to the fuel release.
> 
> Yeah, that's nice and all, but what happens if I'm in a severe 
> accident, where the wiring harness to the doors is severed, and I 
> get trapped inside a burning car where I die in an inferno? What if 
> I get trapped in rising flood water, or drive into a flooded ditch 
> or river, and water FUBARS my entire electrical system, and I drown 
> because I can't get out? What if I'm in the car, and the fickin' 
> alarm goes off, and I get trapped inside?!?! Which is exactly what 
> happened to me!
> 
> Now, I'm a big guy, admittedly. But I'm also limber. I've never had 
> a problem sliding over the center console between seats in my 
> DeLorean. However, in the Corvette, I was totally trapped. My first 
> instinct being a DeLorean guy trapped in a car is to raise up, and 
> kick the glass out. However, the Corvette had me so trapped, I 
> couldn't get my knee past the steering wheel. Not even the power, 
> telescopic steering colum worked any longer. Everything was 
> disabled, including those damn door-open buttons! And the cockpit 
> inside the Vette was so tight, I couldn't even raise my legs up. So 
> there was no way I could reach that emergency release that was all 
> the way in the trunk. After the alarm blared, and I started 
punching 
> and slamming the car door, the GM guy finally took notice, and 
> disabled the alarm, so that I could get out. Now incase you're 
> wondering, yes, the Corvette locks it's doors with the factory 
> alarm. I couldn't get out from the inside, and my buddy on the 
> outside couldn't do it either. This was at one of those GM test 
> track events, BTW. Not a car dealership.
> 
> I've seen Gullwing doors on the DeLorean get wedged shut. They just 
> take a bit more "oomphf" to open. And when the locks do jamm, 
> they're also easy to open. But no matter what, they're not as great 
> a risk to my safety, as the Corvette C6 is. Hell, even the Bricklin 
> SV-1 had emergency cotterpins above your head that you could pull 
> out, to get the doors open, incase the hydraulic system failed!
> 
> I won't ride in a C6, nor the Cadillac XLR it was badge-engineered 
> from for an honest fear of my life. I don't trust that crap door 
> lock design in the least bit if something happened. And knowing 
GM's 
> penchant for defective designs, and numerous recalls, I doubt I'd 
> have to even be in a serious accident for something to go wrong. 
But 
> that's just my opinion.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>










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Message: 6
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:22 am (PDT)
From: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

Have you replaced/checked your thermostat,could have been the reason 
the otterstat shot out in the first place.
cbl



In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and 
now
> have one of two problems.
> 
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> warped a head.  The car runs nicely for at least 30 minutes, then it
> starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of the overflow 
which I
> then replace and try to bleed again.
> 
> Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a longer drive on 
a
> hot day and it blows again.  How can I tell the difference between
> trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling system?
> 
> No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in the oil at the
> dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.
> 
> I've had two friends with other cars blow head gaskets this month - 
so
> I'm nervous - suggestions?
> 
> Tom
>










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Message: 7
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 3:22 am (PDT)
From: "Patrick Conlon" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

While I don't have any suggestions for Tom, I do think we can all  
learn from this incident.  I followed the advice of someone else who  
recently lost their otterstat (and coolant) and I used a zip tie  
around my otterstat, in addition to the original metal clip that  
holds it in place.  I figure it can't hurt to be cautious and prevent  
something like this.  A 25 cent zip tie could end up saving your engine.

This may be a good thing for all owners to do before the drive to  
PR.  Why take a chance?
-Patrick C.
1880


On May 31, 2006, at 7:32 PM, Tom Tait wrote:

> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
>
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> warped a head.  The car runs nicely for at least 30 minutes, then it
> starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of the overflow which I
> then replace and try to bleed again.
>
> Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a longer drive on a
> hot day and it blows again.  How can I tell the difference between
> trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling system?
>
> No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in the oil at the
> dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.
>
> I've had two friends with other cars blow head gaskets this month - so
> I'm nervous - suggestions?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see  
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 8
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 7:36 am (PDT)
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: AC Rubber tubing

 

Well, if all the previous owner spent was $34, it certainly wasn't
done properly.

First and foremost, the R12 oil is still in there.  A no-no for the
long term, but usually shows no ill effects for the near term.  The
oil is critical for the compressor operation. Incompatible oil is said
to gum up and eventually ruin the compressor. For now, if your
compressor and clutch operate fine, I wouldn't bother changing them.
Have an A/C shop do a flush when you have the remaining 134a
evacuated. Not sure what it involves, but it is supposed to get the
old oil out. My compressor clutch was failing, and I also had leaks in
a few different spots on it. (How do I know? Read on...)

The hoses themselves probably arn't the source of your current leak. 
The old A/C hoses dont tend to leak 134a if they have been used in the
past by R12.  They would leak if you put in brand new (old) R12 hoses
and charged with 134a.

The condensor is probably ok and doesn't need replacing, but it may be
full of bugs, dirt, road-grime, etc. after 25 years reducing its
effectiveness. I chose to replace mine with my conversion since I
needed a new radiator anyways, then while I was at that, might as well
replace my cooling fans too. I bought Toby's new low-power high-flow
fans, can't wait to turn them on! The higher airflow not only
increases the radiator's effectiveness, it also increases the A/C's
effectiveness.

Next comes the high pressure switches.  They arn't critical for normal
function, but are a nice safety feature incase of overcharge, stuck
compressor, or failed cooling fans.  John Hervey's new hoses dont have
ports for these, nor on the new condensor (like some D's), yet he
still sold me a new high pressure switch and relief valve, need to
talk to him about that.

The Orifice tube (in the high pressure inlet for the evaporator)
should be replaced if you do the high pressure short line, but it
wouldn't be critical if you didn't.  Since 134a has less cooling
capability, a new type of orifice tube, called a Variable Orifice
Valve or Smart VAV has been developed to assist performance.  If you
do replace it, replace it with one of these.

The Evaporator is the most difficult part to replace.  Thankfully, it
is the least necessary to replace.  You need to be carefull
disconnecting the lines to it to make sure you dont twist its metal
tubes and cause a leak.  Me being super thourough with my rebuild, I
removed mine and cleaned it out.  Junk and debris get in through the
fresh air intake and plug it up.  Back in 2001 I was able to
significantly clean it out and increase airflow by reaching my arm in
through the blower motor opening and pulling out gunk. This time I
wanted it completely clean so I simply (or rather not-so-simply)
removed it.

Now comes the Accumulator/Dryer.  This is where the excess refigerant
and oil is stored in the system. It also contains a desiccant to
remove stray moisture from the system.  This should certainly be
replaced if you do nothing else. The low pressure cycling switch is
also attached directly to this.  I have observed a moderate failure
rate with this part, so I would also recommend replacing it.

Now, for those who kept reading to find out how I knew about certain
leaks, here it is.  I had no dye in my old system. Didn't need it.  I
watched for rapid dirt and grime buildup on my A/C components.  When
there is a very small leak, the escaping refigerant will take a little
of the oil with it. This will stick to the spot its leaking from, and
cause it to get dirty much quicker than other parts. I had 3 leaks in
my previous system. Two on the compressor (O-rings for the high/low
pressure line connections [repairable with new O-rings], and one on
the weep seal for the clutch shaft [not repairable]), then also a leak
on the high pressure line connection to the evaporator.

Other things to note, on ANY connection that is taken apart, the
O-ring should be replaced with a 134a compatible GREEN O-ring. It is
designed for it. John Hervey's new hoses have the green O-rings on
them. The only one I had to buy was for the evaporator/accumulator
connection.

One more reminder to make sure your long high-pressure line is CLEAR
of the steering shaft!!!  This goes for those installing new hoses,
and those who have never touched their A/C systems! You dont want
rubbing which WILL blow the hose. I personally know TWO Delorean
owners this has happened to.

Make sure you have 19mm, 22mm, 27mm, and 32mm wrenches.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the great replies.  I didn't do the conversion.  It was 
> done by the previous owner in March of 2004 (about a year before I 
> bough the car).  The record shows he bought a $34 R134A conversion 
> kit.  This doesn't sound like he replaced any major parts, does it?  
> How extensive is a "kit"? I think I should probably change the tubes 
> and major components that I am able to, then bring it to the shop 
> for final tweaking and refilling.  Is that reasonable, or are there 
> other items to be aware of when replacing components?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > The spliced lines are quite nice for ease of install.  Andy is 
> right
> > that the hardest part is getting the low pressure line through the
> > frame by the gas tank (which really wasn't that hard).  It helped
> > having Andy assist me, in that I could bend down the frame slightly
> > (not a permenent bend, just a flex) and guide the end over the tank
> > plate nuts while Andy actually pushed it through.  It can also be
> > difficult to separate the nuts and the lines.  You need to spend 
> $75
> > on a 32mm, 27mm, and 22mm wrench.  19mm is also necessary but I
> > already had one of those.  There is not much room to work the 
> wrenches
> > but it is possible (hey, they got them on there didn't they?). On 
> the
> > first car I did a few years ago, I could not separate the high
> > pressure line from the evaporator.  I got the nuts apart, but the
> > lines would not disconnect.  With more time they probably could 
> have
> > come apart, but I didn't have any then.  My car which I'm in 
> progress
> > with was no problem.  If your doing all this, replace the 
> accumulator
> > and orifice tube as well (unless you did that with your original
> > conversion).
> > 
> > Other misc. notes....
> > 
> > Be sure to keep the main high pressure line away from the steering
> > shaft.  Many owners have had sudden AC failure when this hose was 
> warn
> > through by the shaft.
> > 
> > Also, John Hervey has not been as responsive as he has been in the
> > past.  When I made my original order almost everything came as it
> > should.  I emailed him many general questions about the parts and 
> two
> > that were missing, no responce.  I called him a few times then
> > eventually got through to him to get one of the parts that didn't
> > arrive, but I still dont have the other one yet.
> > 
> > When I arrive in Chicago, every component in my A/C system will be
> > brand new except for the evaporator, which I removed and throughly
> > cleaned.
> > 
> > Jim Reeve
> > MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> > DMC6960
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> > >
> > > I had my R134A recharged last summer, and the AC felt nice and 
> cold at 
> > > that time  This year, I really don't feel any cold air coming 
> through 
> > > and the compressor just turns on and off for about a second 
> every 5 
> > > seconds or so.  I suspect my charge is gone.  I read that older 
> R-12 
> > > rubber tubing (I suspect those that run under my car are 
> original) 
> > > will actually let the R134A pass through the molecules of 
> rubber, 
> > > resulting in a slow leak over the winter.  Is this true?  If so, 
> is it 
> > > worth investing in Special T's spliced tubing (I don't have time 
> or 
> > > patience to lift the car body to replace with whole sections) 
> and 
> > > replacing the long runs under the car?  Can I just replace them 
> easily 
> > > myself, or do I need an AC shop to evacuate any remaining R134A 
> for 
> > > safety/environmental reasons - or is there not enought to worry 
> about 
> > > if I open and replace the tubing before I bring to an AC shop to 
> > > recharge?  Any advice on this subject is appreciated.
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > 
> > > Paul
> > > Vin 10944
> > >
> >
>










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Message: 9
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 7:38 am (PDT)
From: "Chris Shepherd" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

Buy one of these from Toby. The site says they are in stock.
   
  http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K1012DP&Category_Code=9475
   
  Chris
  06301

Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
  While I don't have any suggestions for Tom, I do think we can all 
learn from this incident. I followed the advice of someone else who 
recently lost their otterstat (and coolant) and I used a zip tie 
around my otterstat, in addition to the original metal clip that 
holds it in place. I figure it can't hurt to be cautious and prevent 
something like this. A 25 cent zip tie could end up saving your engine.

This may be a good thing for all owners to do before the drive to 
PR. Why take a chance?
-Patrick C.
1880


On May 31, 2006, at 7:32 PM, Tom Tait wrote:

> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
>
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> warped a head. The car runs nicely for at least 30 minutes, then it
> starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of the overflow which I
> then replace and try to bleed again.
>
> Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a longer drive on a
> hot day and it blows again. How can I tell the difference between
> trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling system?
>
> No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in the oil at the
> dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.
>
> I've had two friends with other cars blow head gaskets this month - so
> I'm nervous - suggestions?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http:// 
> groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 8:14 am (PDT)
From: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

First, get a new header bottle cap. [101977, $5.09, shiney].  Then, 
patiently bleed or burp ALL the air from the system.  If the fans are 
coming on and it still overheats, there is still air in the system or 
your head gasket is gone.
Warren at DMC



Tom Tait wrote:
> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
> 
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> warped a head.  The car runs nicely for at least 30 minutes, then it
> starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of the overflow which I
> then replace and try to bleed again.
> 
> Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a longer drive on a
> hot day and it blows again.  How can I tell the difference between
> trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling system?
> 
> No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in the oil at the
> dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.
> 
> I've had two friends with other cars blow head gaskets this month - so
> I'm nervous - suggestions?
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 10:08 am (PDT)
From: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question - part 2

 

Thanks Joey and all.

I thought I was in pretty good shape.  The entire cooling system except
the heater core and the hard pipes is new from usual vendors.  I have
the full bleeding kit from Toby which includes the radiator bleeder.  I
even recently purchased his adjustable fan control (otterstat
replacement)but had not put it in yet as it involved draining the
system.

Seems like the consensus is that there is plenty of simple things that
can go wrong in the cooling system before worrying about the head gasket
- so I'll replace the thermostat and install the new temp sensor and
then do a pressure bleed as suggested.

NEW QUESTION THEN - I have Herveys new fans that draw much less
amperage, and also the ultra simple fan fix that uses relay bases and
fuses only.  I've heard that the low end fan fix is not a great
solution, but isn't it just fine when coupled with lower draw fan
motors?  Grady's fan fix sounds a lot cheaper than a head gasket, but
I'd love to keep it on page 2 or 3 of my long list if it's a "would
like" not a "must have".

Tom



-----Original Message-----
From: Joey Morgan [mailto:jlm1701music_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 7:56 PM
To: Tom Tait
Subject: Re: [DML] Overheating question

Hey Tom,

How are your fans working? Do they cycle like they are
suppose to? If not, you may need to get a fan fix, I
suggest the (Grady) one. Do you have an automatic
bleeder kit, many vender's sell them and I have one on
mine. Could be the thermostat as well.
I do not know what your budget or finances are but if
they are tight I would start with the most
inexpensive,(thermostat) and new otterstat, if you
still have the problem get an automatic bleeder kit,
and if the problem is still there get the fan fix.
That's what I would do. The process of elimination. If
it does end up being a blown head gasket, you have
taken the proper steps in helping keep the car cool.
Hope this helps. Good luck. Keep us posted.

Joey Morgan
Catonsville, MD
#6297



--- Tom Tait <TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com> wrote:

> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all
> my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
> 
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the
> radiator or I may have
> warped a head.  The car runs nicely for at least 30
> minutes, then it
> starts to heat up, finally spewing coolant out of
> the overflow which I
> then replace and try to bleed again.
> 
> Each time it seems like all is well, then I go on a
> longer drive on a
> hot day and it blows again.  How can I tell the
> difference between
> trapped air and exhaust gas getting into the cooling
> system?
> 
> No loss of power, no obvious water contamination in
> the oil at the
> dipstick, no oil in the coolant that I can tell.
> 
> I've had two friends with other cars blow head
> gaskets this month - so
> I'm nervous - suggestions?
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 10:11 am (PDT)
From: "sweetp01569" paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com
Subject: Re: AC Rubber tubing

 

Thanks Jim,

My compressor and clutch are OK, and believe my condensor and 
evaporator are relatively clean.  I ordered a new accumulator, VOV 
orifice tube, low pressure cycling switch and pressure relief 
valve.  When I receive these items, I will make an appt with the AC 
shop and request they do the flush to get out the old oil, leak test 
and refill with the proper amount of R134A (which is 2 to 2.2 lbs, 
right?).  One other question.  Should I change all the o-rings, even 
for fitting or hoses that I am not replacing, or best of left alone 
for now?

Thanks again,

Paul

 on --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Well, if all the previous owner spent was $34, it certainly wasn't
> done properly.
> 
> First and foremost, the R12 oil is still in there.  A no-no for the
> long term, but usually shows no ill effects for the near term.  The
> oil is critical for the compressor operation. Incompatible oil is 
said
> to gum up and eventually ruin the compressor. For now, if your
> compressor and clutch operate fine, I wouldn't bother changing 
them.
> Have an A/C shop do a flush when you have the remaining 134a
> evacuated. Not sure what it involves, but it is supposed to get the
> old oil out. My compressor clutch was failing, and I also had 
leaks in
> a few different spots on it. (How do I know? Read on...)
> 
> The hoses themselves probably arn't the source of your current 
leak. 
> The old A/C hoses dont tend to leak 134a if they have been used in 
the
> past by R12.  They would leak if you put in brand new (old) R12 
hoses
> and charged with 134a.
> 
> The condensor is probably ok and doesn't need replacing, but it 
may be
> full of bugs, dirt, road-grime, etc. after 25 years reducing its
> effectiveness. I chose to replace mine with my conversion since I
> needed a new radiator anyways, then while I was at that, might as 
well
> replace my cooling fans too. I bought Toby's new low-power high-
flow
> fans, can't wait to turn them on! The higher airflow not only
> increases the radiator's effectiveness, it also increases the A/C's
> effectiveness.
> 
> Next comes the high pressure switches.  They arn't critical for 
normal
> function, but are a nice safety feature incase of overcharge, stuck
> compressor, or failed cooling fans.  John Hervey's new hoses dont 
have
> ports for these, nor on the new condensor (like some D's), yet he
> still sold me a new high pressure switch and relief valve, need to
> talk to him about that.
> 
> The Orifice tube (in the high pressure inlet for the evaporator)
> should be replaced if you do the high pressure short line, but it
> wouldn't be critical if you didn't.  Since 134a has less cooling
> capability, a new type of orifice tube, called a Variable Orifice
> Valve or Smart VAV has been developed to assist performance.  If 
you
> do replace it, replace it with one of these.
> 
> The Evaporator is the most difficult part to replace.  Thankfully, 
it
> is the least necessary to replace.  You need to be carefull
> disconnecting the lines to it to make sure you dont twist its metal
> tubes and cause a leak.  Me being super thourough with my rebuild, 
I
> removed mine and cleaned it out.  Junk and debris get in through 
the
> fresh air intake and plug it up.  Back in 2001 I was able to
> significantly clean it out and increase airflow by reaching my arm 
in
> through the blower motor opening and pulling out gunk. This time I
> wanted it completely clean so I simply (or rather not-so-simply)
> removed it.
> 
> Now comes the Accumulator/Dryer.  This is where the excess 
refigerant
> and oil is stored in the system. It also contains a desiccant to
> remove stray moisture from the system.  This should certainly be
> replaced if you do nothing else. The low pressure cycling switch is
> also attached directly to this.  I have observed a moderate failure
> rate with this part, so I would also recommend replacing it.
> 
> Now, for those who kept reading to find out how I knew about 
certain
> leaks, here it is.  I had no dye in my old system. Didn't need 
it.  I
> watched for rapid dirt and grime buildup on my A/C components.  
When
> there is a very small leak, the escaping refigerant will take a 
little
> of the oil with it. This will stick to the spot its leaking from, 
and
> cause it to get dirty much quicker than other parts. I had 3 leaks 
in
> my previous system. Two on the compressor (O-rings for the high/low
> pressure line connections [repairable with new O-rings], and one on
> the weep seal for the clutch shaft [not repairable]), then also a 
leak
> on the high pressure line connection to the evaporator.
> 
> Other things to note, on ANY connection that is taken apart, the
> O-ring should be replaced with a 134a compatible GREEN O-ring. It 
is
> designed for it. John Hervey's new hoses have the green O-rings on
> them. The only one I had to buy was for the evaporator/accumulator
> connection.
> 
> One more reminder to make sure your long high-pressure line is 
CLEAR
> of the steering shaft!!!  This goes for those installing new hoses,
> and those who have never touched their A/C systems! You dont want
> rubbing which WILL blow the hose. I personally know TWO Delorean
> owners this has happened to.
> 
> Make sure you have 19mm, 22mm, 27mm, and 32mm wrenches.
> 
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC6960
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the great replies.  I didn't do the conversion.  It 
was 
> > done by the previous owner in March of 2004 (about a year before 
I 
> > bough the car).  The record shows he bought a $34 R134A 
conversion 
> > kit.  This doesn't sound like he replaced any major parts, does 
it?  
> > How extensive is a "kit"? I think I should probably change the 
tubes 
> > and major components that I am able to, then bring it to the 
shop 
> > for final tweaking and refilling.  Is that reasonable, or are 
there 
> > other items to be aware of when replacing components?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960_at_dml_> wrote:
> > >
> > > The spliced lines are quite nice for ease of install.  Andy is 
> > right
> > > that the hardest part is getting the low pressure line through 
the
> > > frame by the gas tank (which really wasn't that hard).  It 
helped
> > > having Andy assist me, in that I could bend down the frame 
slightly
> > > (not a permenent bend, just a flex) and guide the end over the 
tank
> > > plate nuts while Andy actually pushed it through.  It can also 
be
> > > difficult to separate the nuts and the lines.  You need to 
spend 
> > $75
> > > on a 32mm, 27mm, and 22mm wrench.  19mm is also necessary but I
> > > already had one of those.  There is not much room to work the 
> > wrenches
> > > but it is possible (hey, they got them on there didn't they?). 
On 
> > the
> > > first car I did a few years ago, I could not separate the high
> > > pressure line from the evaporator.  I got the nuts apart, but 
the
> > > lines would not disconnect.  With more time they probably 
could 
> > have
> > > come apart, but I didn't have any then.  My car which I'm in 
> > progress
> > > with was no problem.  If your doing all this, replace the 
> > accumulator
> > > and orifice tube as well (unless you did that with your 
original
> > > conversion).
> > > 
> > > Other misc. notes....
> > > 
> > > Be sure to keep the main high pressure line away from the 
steering
> > > shaft.  Many owners have had sudden AC failure when this hose 
was 
> > warn
> > > through by the shaft.
> > > 
> > > Also, John Hervey has not been as responsive as he has been in 
the
> > > past.  When I made my original order almost everything came as 
it
> > > should.  I emailed him many general questions about the parts 
and 
> > two
> > > that were missing, no responce.  I called him a few times then
> > > eventually got through to him to get one of the parts that 
didn't
> > > arrive, but I still dont have the other one yet.
> > > 
> > > When I arrive in Chicago, every component in my A/C system 
will be
> > > brand new except for the evaporator, which I removed and 
throughly
> > > cleaned.
> > > 
> > > Jim Reeve
> > > MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> > > DMC6960
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_> 
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I had my R134A recharged last summer, and the AC felt nice 
and 
> > cold at 
> > > > that time  This year, I really don't feel any cold air 
coming 
> > through 
> > > > and the compressor just turns on and off for about a second 
> > every 5 
> > > > seconds or so.  I suspect my charge is gone.  I read that 
older 
> > R-12 
> > > > rubber tubing (I suspect those that run under my car are 
> > original) 
> > > > will actually let the R134A pass through the molecules of 
> > rubber, 
> > > > resulting in a slow leak over the winter.  Is this true?  If 
so, 
> > is it 
> > > > worth investing in Special T's spliced tubing (I don't have 
time 
> > or 
> > > > patience to lift the car body to replace with whole 
sections) 
> > and 
> > > > replacing the long runs under the car?  Can I just replace 
them 
> > easily 
> > > > myself, or do I need an AC shop to evacuate any remaining 
R134A 
> > for 
> > > > safety/environmental reasons - or is there not enought to 
worry 
> > about 
> > > > if I open and replace the tubing before I bring to an AC 
shop to 
> > > > recharge?  Any advice on this subject is appreciated.
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > 
> > > > Paul
> > > > Vin 10944
> > > >
> > >
> >
>









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 10:13 am (PDT)
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net
Subject: Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"

 

Forum,

Looks like a "No Go" for the BTTF screening, due to contact issues.

Disney will not allow for a Universal movie to be played after it
on the same night and Disney "Cars" will be playing all that week.

I wish Jeff had said something sooner instead of stinging us along.
(I could have spent the last month of meetings doing other things)

Sorry I could not get past the contract B.S. to make this happen.

Everyone is welcome to go see "Cars" at this Drive In, since the
drive in does look the one in BTTF III (without the hills & sand).

Later,
Rich W.


Original Message:
-----------------
From: Jeffrey Kohlberg 
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 09:36:55 -0500

Subject: Re: Back to the Future screening (June 14) for DCS 2006

I am sorry but we can't show the film for you. 

The Disney Company prohibits sharing the screen with another film
company on the same night and we are playing "Cars" that week. 

We are sorry.

Your club members are all welcome to see "Cars" in their DeLoreans.


Jeff

Cascade Drive-In









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 10:35 am (PDT)
From: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com
Subject: Re: BTTF at local Drive - BACK UP ALTERNATIVE BTTF Bar B Q

 


As a back up to the BTTF movie, we can set up our own projection TV in 
the back yard on a 15' foot screen and stereo sound.   This would be 
"movie in the park" theme. There is parking for lots of DeLoreans in 
the Back yard in case you want to sit in your car!

BoB






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 10:55 am (PDT)
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net
Subject: Re: Free Advertising of post-DCS DeLorean Cruise (Volo Auto Museum)

 

The final destination of the Chicago Lake Shore Drive Cruise
after DCS 2006, on Sunday, June 18, is the Volo Auto Museum
for a brief afternoon Show & Shine.  Volo has now added the
cruise destination as their website "pop-up" screen.

We are hoping to have between 25 and 50 DeLoreans participate
in the Show & Shine, even if you do not go on the very early
morning cruise and decide to caravan to Volo a little later.
Volo has had our event listed in their flyers since January.

If you would like to see the "pop up" advertising and get a
preview of some of the world's largest muscle car collection
at Volo Auto Museum (including plenty of GTO's), you can use
the following link to get to their website. 

http://www.volocars.com/

The "pop up" currently says the "100 gullwings expected", so
I guess the must be counting each DeLorean as "two" gullwings.

And please keep all the comments about the "Barris Collection"
Back to the Future DeLorean to yourself while at the museum.

Later,
Rich W.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 12:31 pm (PDT)
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: AC Rubber tubing

 

I wouldn't bother replacing the O-rings on fittings you do not take
apart. They will be "sealed" in a similar manner that the old A/C
hoses have been over years of use.  The original factory R12 charge
was 2.5lbs, then reduced to 2.2lbs.  I would probably put around 2lbs
R134a in. This DMCNEWS tech article written by Dave Stragand has a
good overall procedure to follow for long-term sucess.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/r134.html

It also has good recommendations on refilling the compressor with new
oil. Dont forget to find the original leak, and good luck with everything!

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim,
> 
> My compressor and clutch are OK, and believe my condensor and 
> evaporator are relatively clean.  I ordered a new accumulator, VOV 
> orifice tube, low pressure cycling switch and pressure relief 
> valve.  When I receive these items, I will make an appt with the AC 
> shop and request they do the flush to get out the old oil, leak test 
> and refill with the proper amount of R134A (which is 2 to 2.2 lbs, 
> right?).  One other question.  Should I change all the o-rings, even 
> for fitting or hoses that I am not replacing, or best of left alone 
> for now?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Paul








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 12:33 pm (PDT)
From: "cupsdmc" cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: DCS- display space

 

I'm planning on attending the DCS in a few weeks. Does anyone know if 
there is enough room to set up at 10'x10' easy up tent next to my Car 
or over the top of it?  Just in case it gets really hot.  This will be 
my first car show, so I'm not sure what to expect.  I did read on the 
DCS website that we might be inside for some of the time as well.

Terry
11572
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2257846







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 12:35 pm (PDT)
From: "corey ooms" coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"

 

Damn corperate B.S.  I was looking forward to another BTTF showing with the 
club too.  Oh well.

Corey
2423


>From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a 
>"No Go"
>Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 16:47:16 -0000
>
>Forum,
>
>Looks like a "No Go" for the BTTF screening, due to contact issues.
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:49 pm (PDT)
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Stainless panel repair

 

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if any of you would be willing to relay your 
experience in having stainless panels repaired including cost and 
severity of damage vs. final outcome after repairs. I'm trying to 
gauge weather I should have some of mine repaired (small but 
noticeable imperfections) or replaced with good/used panels. BTW the 
ones in question are the right front fender and left rear quarter; in 
case someone has one of these lying around they would be willing to 
part with (near Los Angeles)....

Thanks!

Nathan 
2277









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:49 pm (PDT)
From: "Hank" heskin_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Deloreans mentioned twice on www.rocketboom.com

 

Missing ebay auction and "new" D's:

http://www.rocketboom.com/vlog/archives/2006/05/rb_06_may_31.html

Quicktime required.

-Hank  #1619





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:50 pm (PDT)
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

This is how i bleed the air when i removed all coolant and i have had 
ZERO problems, i have done this 3 times now. I also have the coolant 
bleeder system on my car that attaches to the t-stat housing and goes 
to the small hose that is connected to the overflow tank.

#1. jack up rear end of car as high as you can get it before the front 
end touches the ground.
#2. remove overflow cap.
#3. slowly pour your 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water in the overflow 
tank.
#4. The air will naturally rush to the highest point of the car, the 
part that is in the air.
#5. Let the car down very slowly.
#6. Start the car and let it run for about 2 min with the overflow cap 
off then let the car rest a few min.
#7. Start the car and let it run till it gets hot just before the 
cooling fans come on.
#8. replace overflow cap and you are done.

Mark V





On May 31, 2006, at 9:58 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> How are you bleeding out the air? The only proper way I know of is to
> use a pressure tester to pressurize the system and then let the air
> out at the small hose fitting on the top right side of the radiator
> and the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. If you are trying to
> do it by running the car and heating it up that is very "hit-or-miss".
> A definitive test for a warped head and combustion gases is a
> combustion gas tester. They are not expensive. You can also use the
> coolant presssure tester. If you see the pressure shoot up quickly
> that can be a sign of a blown head gasket too. If you are lucky? you
> may not have warped the heads, only blown a gasket. Before tearing the
> motor apart try bleeding it thourghly.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
>> have one of two problems.
>>
>> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
>> w
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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>
>
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>





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Message: 22
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:50 pm (PDT)
From: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: Safe, Practical Gullwing Doors vs. Dangerous, Deadly Corvette Do

 

Robert,

> It sounds funny, I know. But I've never been trapped inside of my
> DeLorean, nor anyone elses. And the only time I've ever seen a
> DeLorean door get jammed, was either because of the outer door
> handle getting pre-tensioned, or a forigen object getting caught in
> the door. And to release stuck doors isn't a problem. You just press
> down on the interior handle, and then you can unlock the doors.
> Simple as pie. And if you've got an early car with no guide blocks,
> you just have to push a bit harder. They don't pose a threat in the
> least.

Ah, I was thinking more of the lock module failures that applied power
to the solenoids and left it there, preventing you from actuating the
linkage.

To be honest, I've never had a fear of getting trapped in my DeLorean.
I have, however, considered putting one of those emergency glass
hammers within reach so I could easily break through the windshield in
a bad situation. I'd imagine flipping a DeLorean upside dodwn, while
difficult to do, would not make getting out very pleasant.

Thanks for the story!

-Ryan





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Message: 23
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:50 pm (PDT)
From: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net
Subject: Re: BTTF screening Plan B (during DCS) is in the works

 

Corey and others,

I don't give up easily and I seldom take "NO" for a final answer.

Plan B is in the works for a BTTF screening Friday morning (10:04AM)
at the nearby Charlestowne 18 Cinemas (walking distance from PR).

I know this is not as cool as the Drive In concept, but I think the 
"Die-Hard" BTTF fans will be happy to see it just before seeing the
Looking Back at the Future documentary later on Friday afternoon.
It's also early enough that you can still do the driving tour.

I will know tomorrow or by Monday, at the latest, if the theatre
can get the BTTF movie in time to screen it on Friday, June 16.

Later,
Rich



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "corey ooms" <coreysmoo_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Damn corperate B.S.  I was looking forward to another BTTF showing 
with the 
> club too.  Oh well.
> 
> Corey
> 2423








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Message: 24
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:50 pm (PDT)
From: "Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd" martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

I find it helps a lot to jack the back end of the car up to get all the 
air out - esp of the heater matrix circuit. THi susually only applies 
after doing radiator work or hoses under the car.

Martin

Warren Wallingford wrote:

>First, get a new header bottle cap. [101977, $5.09, shiney].  Then, 
>patiently bleed or burp ALL the air from the system.  If the fans are 
>coming on and it still overheats, there is still air in the system or 
>your head gasket is gone.
>Warren at DMC
>  
>







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Message: 25
Date: Thu Jun 1, 2006 5:51 pm (PDT)
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DCS- display space

 

Why would you set up a  tent under a tent. We have 10,000 SQ ft of tent to park under outside for those that register  for the car show.If you did not pay the $15 registration fee you will be out from under the tent.
 
Just to Clarify the show is inside and outside but outside is under two 40  x 120 foot plus tents. Dunking booth is outside as is the engine rebuild and regraining
 
Ken
---------
In a message dated 6/1/2006 3:34:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
I'm  planning on attending the DCS in a few weeks. Does anyone know if 
there is  enough room to set up at 10'x10' easy up tent next to my Car 
or over the  top of it?  Just in case it gets really hot.  This will be 
my  first car show, so I'm not sure what to expect.  I did read on the  
DCS website that we might be inside for some of the time as  well.





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