From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 9:46 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3271

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What is this part?
From: "vin2450" svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com

2. Re: Large Holes In Fiberglass
From: "therealdmcvegas" dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com

3. Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: "therealdmcvegas" dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com

4. Mysterious Fuse
From: "Kevin Heller" howdyhoho_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. Re: What is this part?
From: "spaceboy_2912" seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net

6. Re: What is this part?
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com

7. Re: What is this part?
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

8. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

9. Re: How many LBS
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com

10. Re: What is this part?
From: "Toby Peterson" Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com

11. DCS, Museum, tent and other updates
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: What is this part?
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com

13. Washington, DC area Caravan to DCS (details)
From: "Jeremy" thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net

14. Re: Overheating question
From: "mike p" cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com

15. what is this part
From: "Nick" nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

16. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: "Patrick Conlon" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Freon 12: Evil Stuff
From: "Alan Roberts" twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net

18. Re: How many LBS
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com

19. Re: Steering alignment
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net

20. Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?
From: "mike p" cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com

21. Re: Overheating question
From: "Toby Peterson" Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com

22. Re: Overheating question
From: "Johnny Sawyer" johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com

23. Re: What is this part?
From: "Ed B." mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net

24. missfire??????
From: "Paul" willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk

25. Re: Mysterious Fuse
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net




Message: 1
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 10:35 am (PDT)
From: "vin2450" svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

It looks like a suspension shim part# 106680. you can see a picture of it _at_dml_ delorean.com  I would suggest you check the suspension bolts that hold the rear trail arm assy(part # 100232) you may have a loose or broken suspension bolt?  I would not drive the car until you check this out.  Just my 2 cents.

Stephane

ARM ASSY,-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from
somewhere, 
> while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the vibrations
involved 
> during the removal caused it to come off somewhere.  Anybody know
what 
> this is and where it should go?
> 
> pic here:
> http://home.ca.inter.net/~mr.pants/pix/car%20suff/DMC%20Mystery%
20Part.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> - ed
> 
> --
> 
> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
> 1986.5 928S
> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>










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Message: 2
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 11:13 am (PDT)
From: "therealdmcvegas" dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: Large Holes In Fiberglass

 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Also, anyone have any idea what these holes were for, or was there
high demand for fiberglass coasters in the 80's?

Could be... Before AOL came about and started overflowing people's 
mail boxes with free CDs, I don't know where people got their 
disposable coasters from. :p

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"







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Message: 3
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 11:15 am (PDT)
From: "therealdmcvegas" dmcvegas_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Door Solenoids and lock modules.

 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
<SNIP> 
> Ah, I was thinking more of the lock module failures that applied 
power
> to the solenoids and left it there, preventing you from actuating 
the
> linkage.
> 
> To be honest, I've never had a fear of getting trapped in my 
DeLorean.
> I have, however, considered putting one of those emergency glass
> hammers within reach so I could easily break through the 
windshield in
> a bad situation. I'd imagine flipping a DeLorean upside dodwn, 
while
> difficult to do, would not make getting out very pleasant.
> 
> Thanks for the story!
> 
> -Ryan
>

That is one thing about the DeLorean linkage system that makes it 
different than others. Because of that 2nd latch up front on the 
door, the solenoid can endure more strain. Now that's not to say 
that there is an inherent problem with the doors, because there 
isn't. It's just that over time, as lubrication is lost, the door 
locks are harder to operate for the door solenoids, because there 
are so many more joints and pivot points the gum up and create more 
strain. Therefore, more torque needs to be exerted by the solenoids 
to work properly. DeLorean owners in really dusty areas such as the 
Southwestern US, and parts of the Midwest need to be really caucious 
about this, and should include lubrication of their door locks as a 
routine maintenance. Now, having said that about the DeLorean's door 
locks, I gotta ask;

Does anyone here have any first-hand experience with being locked 
in, or out of their car because of a malfunctioning solenoid? I've 
heard of this being a concern, but have never heard of a real-world 
example being cited? I know that you certainly run the risk of 
burning out the solenoids and damaging them for future use. But the 
DeLorean certainly wasn't the first car to use solenoids, and I've 
never heard of any Cadillacs, Thunderbirds, or other cars with PDLs 
ever trapping anyone inside because of a malfunction.

Now if you did have a malfunction with the locks, and lets say one 
was either repeatedly trying to lock it self. Or even was stuck in 
the lock position, it wouldn't be a difficult predicament to get out 
of. Simply unlock the other door.

As for the life hammers, I've thought about carrying one too, but 
not for my car. Rather I'd prefer to have it, in case I ever had to 
be a samaratin, and help someone else out of their car. It's like 
the same reason I carry a fire extinguisher with me. Years ago when 
I worked at a grocery store, there was a car out in the parking lot 
that caught fire. It was a loss, but it also damaged the cars that 
were parked next to it. I don't have fears about my car catching 
fire, but I've seen plenty in my time burn when I lived out in Vegas.

Kicking, or even pushing the glass of the passenger doors out 
shouldn't really be an issue. Sure it's got a little RTV on it to 
seal the water out, but it's only held in with rivited clips, and a 
rubber gasket that is pressed agaisnt T-304 stainless steel. And 
stainless steel is ALOT softer than carbon steel. I've dented my 
door by improperly closing it with my fingers, when I slammed it 
once. It's not the same as the windscreen, or even the back glass. 
Conventional doors have their glass mounted in steel tracks, which 
we don't have to worry about.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 4
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:34 pm (PDT)
From: "Kevin Heller" howdyhoho_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Mysterious Fuse

 

Hello All, 

First time post for me. I just recently purchased my
dream car of 20 years and I'm enjoying everything
about her so far. Lots of little projects all around
to keep me busy.

One of these is why I'm posting today. While trying to
figure out some of the strange wiring that's been
done, I noticed an empty fuse holder dangling from the
steering column harness. Since everything works, the
only thing I can think of is it goes to the radio, but
since the radio that is installed is not the factory
original the fuse may no longer be in use. For a
picture, click the link here:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/axh174/DeLorean/mysterious_fuse2.jpg

If you follow the red line from the upper left (which
comes directly from the ignition key), you'll come to
a blue coupler of sorts. Out of one end the red wire
continues, but there splits off a brown wire with a
white fuse holder. The mate for it is just to the
right resting near the firewall. It's a green wire
with the white fuse cap.

I haven't been able to find this on the wiring diagram
(could have missed it) and I'm wondering if anyone
else has this and what it does. 

Thanks in advance for any help and the help this forum
has already been in helping me live the dream. =)

-Kevin
2234

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)
From: "spaceboy_2912" seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

Thats a TAB shim, check out your TABs.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from
somewhere, 
> while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the vibrations involved 
> during the removal caused it to come off somewhere.  Anybody know what 
> this is and where it should go?
> 
> pic here:
>
http://home.ca.inter.net/~mr.pants/pix/car%20suff/DMC%20Mystery%20Part.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> - ed
> 
> -- 
> 
> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
> 1986.5 928S
> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>









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Message: 6
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

This is a critically important part!!!  It is an alignment shim for
the trailing arms.  If it has fallen off (which it obviously has) then
one of your trailing arm bolts is no longer tight, thus has play in
it, will cause other shims to fall off if present, and most
importantly will cause dangerous wear on your trailing arm bolts.

Check both trailing arm bolts.  If only one of them is loose, you know
where the shim goes.  Take note of the number of shims on each side
(hopefully that is the only one that has fallen out), then remove both
TAB (trailing arm bolts) and inspect.  If either are bent, replace
them.  If they are not bent, clean, lubricate, reinstall with correct
shims for each side (for rear wheel alignment).  Torque down to about
55lbs and then double-nut them.

Jim Reeve
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from
somewhere, 
> while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the vibrations involved 
> during the removal caused it to come off somewhere.  Anybody know what 
> this is and where it should go?
> 
> pic here:
>
http://home.ca.inter.net/~mr.pants/pix/car%20suff/DMC%20Mystery%20Part.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> - ed
> 
> -- 
> 
> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
> 1986.5 928S
> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>










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Message: 7
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

Good call Stephane.
It is *possible* this shim was used on the facia or a panel but it is
correctly used for the trailing arm bolts to set the rear toe. If it
fell out from there (one side or the other maybe both?) that means the
bolt is loose, bent, stretched, broken, or missing. You cannot just
put them in. If you find either (or both) the trailing arm bolts loose
you should replace them and have the car aligned so the proper # of
shims is put back. It is dangerous to drive the car if the shims have
fallen out and/or the bolts are bent or loose.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> It looks like a suspension shim part# 106680. you can see a picture 
> of it _at_dml_ delorean.com  I would suggest you check the suspension bolts 
> that hold the rear trail arm assy(part # 100232) you may have a 
> loose or broken suspension bolt?  I would not drive the car until 
> you check this out.  Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Stephane
> 
> ARM ASSY,-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from 
> somewhere, 
> > while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the vibrations 
> involved 
> > during the removal caused it to come off somewhere.  Anybody know 
> wha








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Message: 8
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
Subject: Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.

 

The problem is not with the solenoids or even the linkage and the
lubrication. The problems with the doors is two-fold. If a door gets
out-of-adjustment or is forced open, closed, locked or unlocked the
linkage bends and gets out of adjustment. The other problem is the
very undercapacity relays in the locking module. Eventually the
contacts will weld together. When that happens current will flow
continually until the battery dies. This also causes the solenoids to
short out. In the meantime it will not allow you to manually unlock
the doors.
 To prevent probems with the doors they have to be adjusted properly
and never forced. If you find you have to slam the doors to get them
closed you are forcing things and that is not good. You should also
NOT be able to lock them if both latches are NOT in 2nd locking
position. The other thing you have to do is either upgrade the locking
module somehow, either by replacing with one of the better substitutes
or by simply disconnecting the old locking module and foregoing the
Centeral Locking Function. The solenoids are not the problem, they are
a symptom of the real problem. If they are not powerful enough to lock
and unlock the doors they have probably already been damaged.
Lubrication is not the answer. Rewinding the solenoids is required.
You are correct, the Delorean isn't the only car to use solenoids, it
IS the only car that uses the cr-py locking module! Most other cars
have gone to actuators anyway. Lighter, more powerful, and require
less current.
David teitelbaum
vin 10757

 
> That is one thing about the DeLorean linkage system that makes it 
> different than others. Because of that 2nd latch up front on the 
> door, the solenoid can endure more strain. Now that's not to say 
> that there is an inherent problem with the doors, because there 
> isn't. It's just that over time, as lubrication is lost, the door 
> locks are harder to operate for the door solenoids, because there 
> are so many more joints and pivot points the gum up and create more 
> strain. Therefore, more torque needs to be exerted by the solenoids 
> to work properly. DeLorean owners in really dusty areas such as the 
> Southwestern US, and parts of the Midwest need to be really caucious 
> about this, and should include lubrication of their door locks as a 
> routine maintenance. Now, having said that about the DeLorean's door 
> locks, I gotta ask;
> 
> Does anyone here have any first-hand experience with being locked 
> in, or out of their car because of a malfunctioning solenoid? I've 
> heard of this being a concern, but have never heard of a real-world 
> example being cited? I know that you certainly run the risk of 
> burning out the solenoids and damaging them for future use. But the 
> DeLorean certainly wasn't the first car to use solenoids, and I've 
> never heard of any Cadillacs, Thunderbirds, or other cars with PDLs 
> ever trapping anyone inside because of a malfunction.
> 
> Now if you did have a malfunction with the locks, and lets say one 
> was either repeatedly trying to lock it self. Or even was stuck in 
> the lock position, it wouldn't be a difficult predicament to get out 
> of. Simply unlock the other door.
> 
> As for the life hammers, I've thought about carrying one too, but 
> not for my car. Rather I'd prefer to have it, in case I ever had to 
> be a samaratin, and help someone else out of their car. It's like 
> the same reason I carry a fire extinguisher with me. Years ago when 
> I worked at a grocery store, there was a car out in the parking lot 
> that caught fire. It was a loss, but it also damaged the cars that 
> were parked next to it. I don't have fears about my car catching 
> fire, but I've seen plenty in my time burn when I lived out in Vegas.
> 
> Kicking, or even pushing the glass of the passenger doors out 
> shouldn't really be an issue. Sure it's got a little RTV on it to 
> seal the water out, but it's only held in with rivited clips, and a 
> rubber gasket that is pressed agaisnt T-304 stainless steel. And 
> stainless steel is ALOT softer than carbon steel. I've dented my 
> door by improperly closing it with my fingers, when I slammed it 
> once. It's not the same as the windscreen, or even the back glass. 
> Conventional doors have their glass mounted in steel tracks, which 
> we don't have to worry about.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>









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Message: 9
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)
From: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: How many LBS

 

Curious.  Which hose are you replacing and why?

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> How many LBS of R-12 does the Delorean take. I am getting it charged 
> again after a new hose installed.
> 
> Nope i am not converting it either to R-134A.
> 
> Mark V
>










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Message: 10
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:36 pm (PDT)
From: "Toby Peterson" Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

Ed - I concur with Stephane - It is definitely an alignment shim from 
the trailing arm attachment.  You will find one of your trailing arm 
bolts (TAB's) loose and/or bent.  As indicated, this should be 
attended to immediately.  You had sent a private email regarding this 
situation, so this reply is really for the benefit of others on the 
DML.  Trailing arm bolts continue to be an issue in some percentage 
of the fleet, as long as original bolts are still installed.

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com   

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from 
somewhere, while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the 
vibrations involved during the removal caused it to come off 
somewhere.  Anybody know what this is and where it should go?
> 
> pic here:
> http://home.ca.inter.net/~mr.pants/pix/car%20suff/DMC%20Mystery%
20Part.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> - ed









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Message: 11
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:36 pm (PDT)
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS, Museum, tent and other updates

 

Well again we managed to increase the size of the museum.  I  now have three more display cases so I think I am  up to 28 display cases.  I just recieved about 10 photos that were taken by DMC either photographers or personel that hung in the factrory at some time or another.  I also have in my posession now one of the shoveles that was actually used at the factory groundbreaking.
 
In addition I just got word that the Tellis (sp) carrier WILL be at the show and I may need one or two more bodies to  help getting it reloaded Saturday night so if anyone wants to help that will be the first item out as I need the trailer back to finish clearing out the place.
 
WE have now 5 screens and projectors, full stage and lighting and sound ready to go along with some very interesting video.
 
There are about 12 computers loaded with the new documents we found this spring also for your viewing.
 
Most of the items that will be at this show have NOT been displayed since the early to mid 80's so  don't miss your chance to be part of DeLorean History.
 
I also am looking for 10 People to help Jeffrey W. do part of his show Saturday.
 
It will require about an hour prep of your time with Jeffrey on Saturday morning ( yes you will have time to get your car in ) 
 
It is about a 30-45 minute show with Jeffrey on stage starring  YOU so if you are interested contact me directly  to be put on the list.  First 10 get the spot.
 
Dunking booth is ready 
 
Some of the specialty cars are already on their way and all is good.
 
We are going to go ahead and put up the 10K of tents these will be used for those  that paid the $15 car regtistration fee the others will park in the same area just outside the tents.
 
If you have not registered and still plan to please give me a break and do so by Sunday it will get real hectic for me after that.  I will STOP registrations at probably Midnight on the 12th. I think that is what I published earlier.
 
So Ready for Pheasant Run See you there.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:36 pm (PDT)
From: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

I am 1000% sure that is a TAB shim for aligning the rear wheel 
thrust angles. Check your TABs and you will see that the shimms are 
loose on one or both sides. 
Nathan
2277
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This part - a u-shaped washer/spacer-  "fell off" my car from 
somewhere, 
> while we removing the stock exhaust; we figure the vibrations 
involved 
> during the removal caused it to come off somewhere.  Anybody know 
what 
> this is and where it should go?
> 
> pic here:
> http://home.ca.inter.net/~mr.pants/pix/car%20suff/DMC%20Mystery%
20Part.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> - ed
> 
> -- 
> 
> 1982 DMC-12 [11594]
> 1986.5 928S
> 1990 Coupe Quattro 20V
>








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Message: 13
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:37 pm (PDT)
From: "Jeremy" thesmokingman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Washington, DC area Caravan to DCS (details)

 

Hello all. If you live in the area surrounding Washingon DC
(MD,VA,DE,PA) or somewhere along our travel route and would like to
caravan to Chicago, The DMC Maryland Club
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCMD/ is sponsoring a caravan to
Pheasant Run. Details can be found below.


-Departing Washington, DC area, Wednesday, June 14 at 9am by way of
I-495, I-270, I-70, I-76 N to I-80

-Lunch stop in Breezewood, PA at 11:30am at the Gateway Travel Plaza
exit 161 off the PA Turnpike. http://www.gatewaytravelplaza.com/

-Spending Wednesday night in Maumee/Toledo, OH at the Hampton Inn I-80
exit #59. Telephone 419-893-1004 (please make reservations now)
http://hamptoninn.hilton.com/en/hp/hotels/index.jhtml;jsessionid=T2PCGXW0LD5GECSGBI1MVCQKIYFC5UUC?ctyhocn=TOLSOHX

-Departing from the Hampton Inn Thursday morning at 8am for Pheasant
Run DCS, arriving no later than 2pm Thursday afternoon.


If you are interested in joining us please contact me at
thesmokingman[at]comcast.net and we will work out details on a meeting
location. See you all in Pheasant Run!

-Jeremy Delaney
#10842









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Message: 14
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:37 pm (PDT)
From: "mike p" cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

I have a question, how do you the air out at the small hose fitting on  the top right side of the radiator?  I recently changed my  antifreeze, used of the radiator, but was afraid to mess with the small  hose fitting on top of the radiator for fear of breaking the connectors.

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:  How are you bleeding out the air? The only proper way I know of is to
use a pressure tester to pressurize the system and then let the air
out at the small hose fitting on the top right side of the radiator
and the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. If you are trying to
do it by running the car and heating it up that is very "hit-or-miss".
A definitive test for a warped head and combustion gases is a
combustion gas tester. They are not expensive. You can also use the
coolant presssure tester. If you see the pressure shoot up quickly
that can be a sign of a blown head gasket too. If you are lucky? you
may not have warped the heads, only blown a gasket. Before tearing the
motor apart try bleeding it thourghly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait"  wrote:
>
> I recently had my otterstat shoot out and lost all my coolant and now
> have one of two problems.
> 
> Either I need to do a better job bleeding the radiator or I may have
> w








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VIN #5781
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Message: 15
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:38 pm (PDT)
From: "Nick" nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: what is this part

 

It is an adjustment shim for your rear trailing arms. The shims space 
the pivot point of the arm away from the frame to achieve rear toe 
adjustment.

DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR if this has fallen out as it means that the bolt 
is now either broken or loose and potentially VERY dangerous.

Any dealer can sell you the replacement bolts and shims.

Cheers, Nick








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Message: 16
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:38 pm (PDT)
From: "Patrick Conlon" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.

 

I was locked in my car due to a malfunctioning solenoid in the first  
few months of ownership.  No matter how hard I pushed the button  
down, the door would not unlock on either side.  After about 30  
seconds, both doors unlocked just fine.

A scary experience, but with my DPNW actuators I no longer have to  
worry about it happening again.

-Patrick C.
1880


On Jun 2, 2006, at 1:39 PM, therealdmcvegas wrote:

> Does anyone here have any first-hand experience with being locked
> in, or out of their car because of a malfunctioning solenoid? I've
> heard of this being a concern, but have never heard of a real-world
> example being cited?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:39 pm (PDT)
From: "Alan Roberts" twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Freon 12: Evil Stuff

 

For anyone who is concerned, Freon 12 was invented (derived?) or whatever to be "heavy molecule" which would "fall to the floor" if it leaked out of a system.  It was banned by international treaty because of its reaction with Ozone in the Ozone layer many thousands of feet up.  Do you think that this was a political decision, not made by a scientist?

AL
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4639/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:40 pm (PDT)
From: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: How many LBS

 

Wisconsin is one of the exempt states for online permit certification 
and if i do get the license i can only buy over 20lb containers.

Now if anyone has some R12 for sale email me direct.

Mark V



On Jun 2, 2006, at 10:29 AM, Tom Tait wrote:

> Between 2 and 2.2 pounds.  If your shop is going to charge you and arm
> and a leg for the gas you might save a little b y getting your IMACA
> certification online ($15 and about 45 minutes of your time)  and buy
> the gas yourself from Ebay or other.   Make sure it holds a good vacuum
> for a couple of hours at least - not only is R12 expensive but its evil
> stuff when it does leak out.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
> Behalf
> Of DMCVIN6683
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 4:31 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] How many LBS
>
> How many LBS of R-12 does the Delorean take. I am getting it charged
> again after a new hose installed.
>
> Nope i am not converting it either to R-134A.
>
> Mark V
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 19
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:41 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
Subject: Re: Steering alignment

 

The problem IS alignment. If it was properly set up the steering wheel
would have been centered. It is a very common mistake (short cut) to
only adjust the toe at one of the tie rod ends. Doing this throws the
centering of the steering wheel off. To properly set toe you MUST
adjust both sides equally to keep the steering wheel straight.
Removing the steering wheel to center it causes you to have less
turning radius on one side and more on the other. The steering rack is
also offcenter. Find a shop that knows what they are doing. The first
step is to center the rack and put the steering wheel on correctly.
Now you can adjust the toe.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> The problem is not the tyre alignment.  I had it all set up correctly so
> that to drive straight I had the steering wheel level and if I let
go of the
> wheel there was no pull left or right.
> 
> My problem is that to drive straight now I have to have the steering w









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Message: 20
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 4:46 pm (PDT)
From: "mike p" cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?

 

Hi, I'm concerned about my timing chain going and more concerned about  what will happen to the engine if the timing chain breaks. 
  
  If the Delorean engine is an interference engine, then I understand it  will be trashed if the timing chain breaks.  My car has over 140K  miles, although the seller and odometer said it only had 40K miles, and  I am considering replacing the timing chain.  
  
  Does anyone know what signs I should look for if the chain is about to go?, pinging?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Mike
  #5781
  
 __________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 6:19 pm (PDT)
From: "Toby Peterson" Toby_at_dml_delorean-parts.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

Mike - We offer an exclusive small kit that adds a very convenient air  
bleeder feature to that hose.  The instructions included with our kit 
describe how to add the bleeder without disturbing the hose.  The 
plastic radiator hose barb can be fragile, and could break if you try 
to remove the hose.  Check it out here: http://tinyurl.com/mrrfj

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike p <cambpd_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I have a question, how do you the air out at the small hose fitting 
on  the top right side of the radiator?  I recently changed my  
antifreeze, used of the radiator, but was afraid to mess with the 
small  hose fitting on top of the radiator for fear of breaking the 
connectors.
> 









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Message: 22
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 6:20 pm (PDT)
From: "Johnny Sawyer" johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com
Subject: Re: Overheating question

 

Use a perssure tester on your header bottle but don't crank it up to the
full 15 pounds, (that's how I found out what anti-freeze tastes like).  Get
it to about 2-3 pound of pressure.

Climb under the front of your car and VERY carefully remove the small hose
off of the radiator.  Many times have I read about people breaking the
plastic connections on the radiator because they weren't cautious.

My rad is an upgraded brass version, so that isn't a problem with me.

When the fluid streams out in an even flow, it's good.

Johnny
5518
AZ-D


On 6/2/06, mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I have a question, how do you the air out at the small hose fitting
> on  the top right side of the radiator?  I recently changed my  antifreeze,
> used of the radiator, but was afraid to mess with the small  hose fitting on
> top of the radiator for fear of breaking the connectors.
>
> David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:  How are you bleeding out
> the air? The only proper way I know of is to
> use a pressure tester to pressurize the system and then let the air
> out at the small hose fitting on the top right side of the radiator
> and the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. If you are trying to
> do it by running the car and heating it up that is very "hit-or-miss".
> A definitive test for a warped head and combustion gases is a
> combustion gas tester. They are not expensive. You can also use the
> coolant presssure tester. If you see the pressure shoot up quickly
> that can be a sign of a blown head gasket too. If you are lucky? you
> may not have warped the heads, only blown a gasket. Before tearing the
> motor apart try bleeding it thourghly.
> David Teitelbaum


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 6:21 pm (PDT)
From: "Ed B." mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net
Subject: Re: What is this part?

 

Thanks everyone...  indeed, after checking under the car, I see that my 
driver's side Trailing Arm is missing all its shims, and has some play, 
of course.  I was hoping someone had used the shim to align the fascia, 
but alas.  From the looks of it, this arm got banged up some time ago, 
and never replaced.  There was never a really "flat-spot to secure stuff 
down.  Frankly, I'm amazed the shims stayed in as long as they have.  
Anyway, I'm ordering a set of Toby's TABs and a new arm to make her like 
new :-)

Thanks again to all who responded!
- ed


1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V





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Message: 24
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 6:28 pm (PDT)
From: "Paul" willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk
Subject: missfire??????

 

Hi Guys,

I was out tonight in the D and everything was fine.

Parked up for about an hour or two and then after starting I was getting a
sudden jerk (like complete loss pf power for a second) in first and second
gear.  The jerk was enough to crack my head of the roof as the car slowed
and I didnít.

I originally thought it was just dirty petrol but noticed it remained for
the rest of the journey but only in first and second gear.

Im gonna go for a test drive again tomorrow to double check but wondered of
you had any ideas in the meantime.

Thanks in advance.

Paul J
Belfast 
2493

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
mike p
Sent: 02 June 2006 20:45
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?

Hi, I'm concerned about my timing chain going and more concerned about  what
will happen to the engine if the timing chain breaks. 
  
  If the Delorean engine is an interference engine, then I understand it
will be trashed if the timing chain breaks.  My car has over 140K  miles,
although the seller and odometer said it only had 40K miles, and  I am
considering replacing the timing chain.  
  
  Does anyone know what signs I should look for if the chain is about to
go?, pinging?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Mike
  #5781
  
 __________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 25
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 7:45 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net
Subject: Re: Mysterious Fuse

 

From the looks of it I would say someone added the fuseholder. Force
open the blue plastic tap, remove the small metal plate inside, and
the fuse holder and wire. Cover the harness wire with a piece of
electrical tape. I would NOT use that point as a power source. From
the picture I cannot tell which circuit the fuseholder was tapped off
of. If it was the brake light circuit it is possible you could blow it
out and then not have any brake lights! 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Kevin Heller <howdyhoho_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hello All, 
> 
> First time post for me. I just recently purchased my
> dream car of 20 years and I'm enjoying everything
> about her so far. Lots of little projects all around
> 









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