Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 5:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3272

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Mysterious Fuse
From: "Patrick Conlon"

2. Re: Overheating question
From: "David Teitelbaum"

3. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: "Chris Almy"

Message: 1
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 7:45 pm (PDT)
From: "Patrick Conlon"
Subject: Re: Mysterious Fuse


That is a fuse holder for the brakelights that is used on many of the early cars.  Mine actually melted on me and smoked, so I spliced in a blade fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse and haven't had any problems since.

My guess is since you have working brakelights and that fuse holder is just dangling, it must have been bypassed somewhere else.

-Patrick C.

On Jun 2, 2006, at 1:59 PM, Kevin Heller wrote:

> Hello All,
> First time post for me. I just recently purchased my dream car of 20 
> years and I'm enjoying everything about her so far. Lots of little 
> projects all around to keep me busy.
> One of these is why I'm posting today. While trying to figure out some 
> of the strange wiring that's been done, I noticed an empty fuse holder 
> dangling from the steering column harness. Since everything works, the 
> only thing I can think of is it goes to the radio, but since the radio 
> that is installed is not the factory original the fuse may no longer 
> be in use. For a picture, click the link here:
> If you follow the red line from the upper left (which comes directly 
> from the ignition key), you'll come to a blue coupler of sorts. Out of 
> one end the red wire continues, but there splits off a brown wire with 
> a white fuse holder. The mate for it is just to the right resting near 
> the firewall. It's a green wire with the white fuse cap.
> I haven't been able to find this on the wiring diagram (could have 
> missed it) and I'm wondering if anyone else has this and what it does.
> Thanks in advance for any help and the help this forum has already 
> been in helping me live the dream. =)
> -Kevin
> 2234
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Message: 2
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 7:46 pm (PDT)
From: "David Teitelbaum"
Subject: Re: Overheating question


I DO crank it up to the full 15 psi. The way I handle the hose is to
just loosen it at the radiator, not take it off. Sometimes you have to
wiggle or twist it a little to "break it loose" so the air can come
out. By going up to 15 psi you compress the air so there is not as
much to get out and it comes out faster. You will know when all the
air is out and the coolant starts flowing. You will hear the hiss stop
and then see the coolant. Just use a shop rag or a paper towel to
catch the coolant. You do not have to get every ounce of air out. The
radiator does self-bleed a little. That is why there is the venturi
effect in the pipe going from the radiator to the coolant bottle. The
thermostat housing is a different story. Air will accumulate there. It
can accumulate to such a point as to prevent the water pump from
circulating the coolant. That is why it is so important to have a
"tight" cooling system. A leaky system will draw air in as it cools.
This will eventualy cause the system to be "air bound". The
self-bleeder kits only deal with the symptom, not the actual cause. If
you find that installing a self-bleeder "fixes" an overheat problem
you should really fix the leaks which in many cases will be the seals
and gaskets under the intake manifold or the 25 year old radiator.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Johnny Sawyer" <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_...> wrote:
> Use a perssure tester on your header bottle but don't crank it up to the
> full 15 pounds, (that's how I found out what anti-freeze tastes
like).  Get
> it to about 2-3 pound of pressure.
> Climb under the front of your car and VERY carefully remove the small h


Message: 3
Date: Fri Jun 2, 2006 7:47 pm (PDT)
From: "Chris Almy"
Subject: Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.


I have an unusual store regarding being locked in. Just after I purchased 
my D, I was having issues with the doors not locking and unlocking 
properly. So I decided to disconnect the lock module. The next time I tried 
to get out, my door wouldn't open! I ended up having to crawl out of the 
passenger side. Turned out the locks were not aligned and it was the 
solenoid that gave it "the extra push" to unlock it. By disconnecting the 
module, it would only unlock using the key! Fixing the alignment took care 
of the issue.

Another another D I've worked on, I noticed that the unlock part of both 
solenoids were fried. While it is common to have the stock lock module 
freeze with the doors locked, it's also just as common to have them freeze 
being unlocked! Of course most people don't typically notice their doors 
being stuck unlocked while driving down the road or getting out.

I think it's a safe bet that anybody with the stock module and solenoids 
either have a nonfunctional locking system or are on borrowed time. I would 
highly recommend doing one of the following:

Disconnect the large white connector on the stock module and forgo central 
Rebuild the stock module using the guide in the tech section.
Replace the lock module with the new digital controller.
Upgrade the solenoids to actuators.

Or best of all, both of the last two!

VIN 4099

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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