From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 3:43 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3273

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. left front fender on eBay...
From: "timnagin" timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com

2. AW: [DML] Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de

3. Raffle car Ticket reciepts
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Brake Hose Removal
From: "Mike" mike.s.davis_at_dml_sbcglobal.net

5. Re: Brake Hose Removal
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. DeLorean Time Machine 'easy pick' as #1 Movie Car says Cars.com
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com

7. Re: Brake Hose Removal
From: "Chris Almy" chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net

8. door marker lights & water in car
From: "rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net" rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net

9. Barn-find DeLorean
From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com

10. Re: Stainless panel repair
From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com

11. Re: Large Holes In Fiberglass
From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com

12. Thanks!
From: "ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com" ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com

13. Manual Transmission Gear Oil Help
From: "PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com




Message: 1
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 5:53 am (PDT)
From: "timnagin" timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com
Subject: left front fender on eBay...

 

I reluctantly had to put the fender on eBay to make this much easier.  I am still offering to deliver the fender at DCS so you will save shipping charges.  If anyone has any questions please let me know!

 

Auction number: 8071932494

 

Greg

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 5:54 am (PDT)
From: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de
Subject: AW: [DML] Door Solenoids and lock modules.

 



All you need to do to prevent the solenoids from being fried or yourself from being locked into the car is installing a low amperage circuit breaker that needs to be reset manually. Typically a 5...10A type will be perfect.
Whenever
the current flows longer than a few seconds, the CB opens the circuit and remains open until you push the button. No chance to burn the wires anymore !
If you ever have to push it, it tells you that the relays were or are stuck - replace them !

Since I replaced my relays about 4 or 5 years ago I never had a problem with them, so it seems as they do last several years before they may fail.
Anyways - instead of disconnecting the whole unit get a CB. Of course nothing can beat Toby's new digital module where somebody really did some great engineering.
As long as the solenoids are fine I would use them and with the CB they should last forever.

If somebody is interested in the CB let me know, I can provid pictures and details. Price for the part itself is less than $10, I payed around $4....

Elvis & 6548...just rolled out of the assembly line in Dunmurry ;-)




I have an unusual store regarding being locked in. Just after I purchased my D, I was having issues with the doors not locking and unlocking properly. So I decided to disconnect the lock module. The next time I tried to get out, my door wouldn't open! I ended up having to crawl out of the passenger side. Turned out the locks were not aligned and it was the solenoid that gave it "the extra push" to unlock it. By disconnecting the module, it would only unlock using the key! Fixing the alignment took care of the issue.

Another another D I've worked on, I noticed that the unlock part of both solenoids were fried. While it is common to have the stock lock module freeze with the doors locked, it's also just as common to have them freeze being unlocked! Of course most people don't typically notice their doors being stuck unlocked while driving down the road or getting out.

I think it's a safe bet that anybody with the stock module and solenoids either have a nonfunctional locking system or are on borrowed time. I would highly recommend doing one of the following:

Disconnect the large white connector on the stock module and forgo central locking/unlocking.
Rebuild the stock module using the guide in the tech section.
Replace the lock module with the new digital controller.
Upgrade the solenoids to actuators.

Or best of all, both of the last two!

Chris
VIN 4099






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 5:55 am (PDT)
From: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car Ticket reciepts

 

All but 4 Raffle ticket souvenir tickets were mailed yesterday.  At  the time we had 342 tickets sold.  This is ahead of last years pace.
 
Its now up to our wonderful post office to get them to   you.
 
I tired to bunch them together so on the ticket it says 1 or 1of # if I did not match them up you will probably get more than one  envelope in the mail but I think I caught most of them.
 
Thanks for making this another big success and remember its Still Evil Dans fault
 
Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 5:56 am (PDT)
From: "Mike" mike.s.davis_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
Subject: Brake Hose Removal

 

I'm assuming this is one of those dumb questions whose answer becomes painfully obvious once you do it, but I can't seem to figure out how to remove the brake hoses. I can figure out which part is the hose and which part is the bracket, but I can't seem to separate them.

Thanks in advance,
  Mike









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 12:05 pm (PDT)
From: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Removal

 

 
 
Mike,
 
Try spraying the fittings with PB Blaster or your favorite equivalent, then while it is soaking go out and buy some flare-nut wrenches or 'line wrenches' 
in  the appropriate sizes at Sears.  These wrenches will help keep you from stripping the fittings.  Remember to continuously tighten then loosen as  you are removing them if they are really tight to avoid breakage.
 
Andy
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/3/2006 7:57:02 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
mike.s.davis_at_dml_sbcglobal.net writes:

I'm  assuming this is one of those dumb questions whose answer becomes
painfully  obvious once you do it, but I can't seem to figure out how
to remove the  brake hoses. I can figure out which part is the hose and
which part is the  bracket, but I can't seem to separate them.

Thanks in  advance,
Mike



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 12:06 pm (PDT)
From: "BTTF.com" stephen_at_dml_bttf.com
Subject: DeLorean Time Machine 'easy pick' as #1 Movie Car says Cars.com

 

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/06/02/009544.html










________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 12:08 pm (PDT)
From: "Chris Almy" chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Brake Hose Removal

 

Once you disconnect the hard line, and remove the nut and washer, all it 
takes is elbow grease. 25 years of rust can build up in there holding it in 
nice and tight. Spraying it all down with PB Blaster a few days before hand 
should really help out. Just support the bracket and give the hose a few 
good wacks with a hammer. This may destroy the hose fitting, so I'm 
assuming you are replacing them.

If you are trying to remove the rear hoses, things get worse. I swear that 
when the factory workers connected the lines where they go through the 
frame, they added extra epoxy and then crimped the hole to hold the lines 
good and tight! Because of the transmission, you can't really get a hammer 
in there to pound them out. I had to put the nut back on a few threads and 
then hold the open end of a large wrench to it. This allowed me to hammer 
from underneath, while the force from the large blows are transferred to 
the hose. I've seen this take anywhere from 15 minutes to 30 seconds 
depending on the D.

Good luck,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 12:06 PM 6/3/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm assuming this is one of those dumb questions whose answer becomes
>painfully obvious once you do it, but I can't seem to figure out how
>to remove the brake hoses. I can figure out which part is the hose and
>which part is the bracket, but I can't seem to separate them.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>   Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 12:09 pm (PDT)
From: "rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net" rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net
Subject: door marker lights & water in car

 

HELP!!
My marker lights seem to work OK for a short term.  If I leave the doors open or the engine compartment open for more that 5 to 10 minutes it blows a fuse.  Has anyone had this problem?   NEXT PROBLEM -  My floors seem to be wet, just in the center of each side.  I can't see where its coming from.  The sides are dry but the center of the mats are wet.  ????????
Any ideas??

ED
6944


rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 12:20 pm (PDT)
From: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com
Subject: Barn-find DeLorean

 

***Moderator's note***

This information was emailed to the mod's email address and I am 
passing it along. It sounds intriguing but as always "caviat emptor" 
or "Buyer Beware".

Hi, Mods- I don't own a DMC or belong to your list, however, being a 
car guy I thought you might be interested in this find. An 81 model 
just came up for sale by the owner here in Reno, Nevada. It appears 
she just took it out of storage and parked it in her driveway, didn't 
even wash it. The VIN is CCEDT26T9BD000750, contact name and phone no. 
from the sign is Byllie Andrews, 775-287-3365. No price listed. 
Appears all original, not trashed, but not well maintained in its 
later years. Appears same owner for many years. Looks like it has just 
been sitting for a long time. Don't know if she has it advertised in 
local papers, doubt she has it on eBay. This might be a great barn 
find for someone! Thought I'd give someone a heads-up...
 
-Stan








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 1:20 pm (PDT)
From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com
Subject: Re: Stainless panel repair

 

Nathan,

P.J.Grady Inc. can provide new, used, or reconditioned panels for the
DeLorean. We also have an exchange program where you can "trade in" your
damaged panels for used/reconditioned panels (provided it is cost effective
to repair them). We have many panels in stock ready for shipment. Any one
interested in the exchange program can send pictures to rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com for
a price quote.

Thank you,

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Nathan Sobieralski
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:54 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Stainless panel repair

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if any of you would be willing to relay your 
experience in having stainless panels repaired including cost and 
severity of damage vs. final outcome after repairs. I'm trying to 
gauge weather I should have some of mine repaired (small but 
noticeable imperfections) or replaced with good/used panels. BTW the 
ones in question are the right front fender and left rear quarter; in 
case someone has one of these lying around they would be willing to 
part with (near Los Angeles)....

Thanks!

Nathan 
2277









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 



-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.0/353 - Release Date: 5/31/2006
 

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/354 - Release Date: 6/1/2006
 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 1:21 pm (PDT)
From: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com
Subject: Re: Large Holes In Fiberglass

 

Todd & Rick,

The earlier cars all had these holes and my original theory was that they
might be intended as a supplemental air intake for the proposed Legend twin
turbo engine option. Subsequent conversations with Fred Dellis (Former Pres.
Legend Industries) discounted that notion as it wouldn't pass enough air to
be of much use. My best guess is that some engineer at DMC felt them
necessary to allow for air displacement to facilitate tighter closing of the
Gull-Wing doors (much like higher-end cars today with auto door glass
"cracking" upon door closing...but much simpler). If this was the case
however the company must have decided later, and correctly, that the auto
water leak aspect of this feature out-weighed any closing benefits. I'd love
to hear of any other theories that make more sense.
The easiest way to fill them permanently is with a small sheet of plastic
adhered with urethane adhesive (silicone would suffice but be somewhat less
permanent). I prefer to seal them from inside via armrest extension panel
removal but outside is OK with suitably thin plastic.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
twinenginedmc12
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 8:07 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Large Holes In Fiberglass

I've heard it said that the vents in the stainless behind the door edge 
were intended to be functional.  The holes are for that.  It's a 
feature!

Rick.
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I have an early car and it looks like I also have the large circular 
holes in the fiberglass body right behind the rear speakers.  I have 
both of the rear quarter panels off, so now is a great time to fix this 
problem.  Any tips on how to go about filling these holes?  They're 
about 3 inches in diameter.
> 
> Also, anyone have any idea what these holes were for, or was there 
high demand for fiberglass coasters in the 80's?
> 
> Thanks,
> Todd Nelson
> 1561, Vermont
> http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 



-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.0/353 - Release Date: 5/31/2006
 

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/354 - Release Date: 6/1/2006
 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 7:06 pm (PDT)
From: "ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com" ROBLAMROCK_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Thanks!

 

 
A big thank you to all the participants at Eurofest 2006: Canada, USA, the  
Bahamas, Ireland (North & South), Scotland, Wales, England, France, Holland,  
Belgium, Germany, Italy, Norway, Sweden and Australia.  This certainly  was a 
global celebration of our famous marque.  
Also thank you to the 70+ DeLoreans that made it to the original factory  
test track, some having driven thousands of kilometres to get here.
Finally my thanks to the DeLorean Owners Association and the DeLorean  Owners 
of Ireland without whose help and suport Eurofest would not be  possible.
Until the next time - Live the dream!
Very best wishes,
Robert Lamrock
Belfast



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat Jun 3, 2006 7:07 pm (PDT)
From: "PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Manual Transmission Gear Oil Help

 

Hi there,
     I have the common seeping/weeping axle and I figured I might as well top 
off the manual tranny oil.   I jacked the car up from the passenger side, 
took off the fill plug, and filled it with some 80W gear oil (5mL).   After I 
lowered it down, I remembered someone's advice here that you know you have enough 
if you can stick your finger in and take it out with oil on it.   

     My question, and probably a dumb one, does this rule apply only when the 
car is resting on 4 wheels?   After I filled up with maybe 5mL of oil, I 
lowered the car.   When I took the plug off the side, oil started to trickle out 
onto the ground.   A nice little puddle formed before I could thread the fill 
screw back into the side.   

When I take the plug off the side, do I know I have too much oil if it is 
trickling out onto the ground when the car is level?   Should I let it come out 
the side until it stops, and then plug it back up?   Does that mean I have 
enough oil in the tranny?

Thanks, your help is appreciated.   I have no way of measuring how much oil 
is currently in there, however the fact that it is coming out the side when the 
plug is off may be an indicator. 

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------