From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 10:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3276

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1a. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
From: Tom Niemczewski

1b. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
From: Nathan Sobieralski

1c. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
From: Nathan Sobieralski

1d. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

1e. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
From: Tom Niemczewski


2a. Re: To replace or not to replace...
From: Tom Niemczewski

2b. Re: To replace or not to replace...
From: Steve Stankiewicz

2c. Re: To replace or not to replace...
From: Chris Murley


3a. Re: DCS VIN Lineup
From: Bernie

3b. Re: DCS VIN Lineup
From: Chris Murley


4a. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: Ryan Wright

4b. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
From: David Teitelbaum


5. exhaust parts for sale
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


6a. Re: Michigan Owners Going To DCS
From: Shannon Yocom

6b. Re: Michigan Owners Going To DCS
From: dmcerik


7. Finally! Its cold in my Delorean!
From: dmcerik


8a. Re: DeLorean Info on Autoblog.com
From: deloreandmc81

8b. Re: DeLorean Info on Autoblog.com
From: Chris Murley


9. Re: Found Great Product for Clearing Fogged Lenses
From: Todd Nelson


10. Re: DCS MUSEUM JACKPOT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


11. Re: Morning session (9am-11am) of Early DeLorean Seminars is cancell
From: d_rex_2002


12. Re: BTTF screening Plan C (pre-DCS) is in the works
From: d_rex_2002


13. DMA Caravans to 2006 Delorean Car show (Chicago)
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club


14. Re: Dunking Booth? Can we put VB in there?
From: Marc Levy


15. Changing the accumulator?
From: Nick Kemp



Messages

1a. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:27 am (PDT)

Hi Nathan

I sure hope it's not the one I've seen some time ago that says that you can vacuum the system using engine vacuum. If that is what you did you'll be ok for a while but later on you can expect some serious corrosion inside the A/C system. Engine vacuum is way not enough to get rid of all the water in the system and refrigerant with water becomes very corrosive. For that reason it is said to vacuum the system using a vacuum pump for about 45 minutes.

As to your compressor not cycling... the pressures in the system depend a lot on the ambient temperature. Since you said that it was 95 degrees the compressor will have a very hard time keeping the pressure low enough in that case especially if you have a regular fixed orifice tube. The variable orifice (VOV) helps to keep the pressures within the proper range and makes the compresson cycle even at idle. If it's blowing cold air even at idle you should be fine.
As to the amount of refrigerant... 28oz is a bit low. The best results are achieved with between 32 and 35oz of R-134a. If you add some you might actually see the compresson start to cycle but even if it switches off it will be for just a short moment at that temperature. It will stay running a lot longer.

Good luck

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com



----- Original Message -----
> Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> A big thanks goes out to who ever posted the cheap do it yourself AC
> fix in the tech section. I followed his advice very closely and now
> I have cold air! But.....






Messages in this topic (7)

1b. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
Posted by: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com valleyrat12
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:51 pm (PDT)

That all makes sense but why does the compressor cycle at idle with the
blower fan on but stops cycling with the blower fan off? (The cabin air fan)

Nathan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Nathan
>
> I sure hope it's not the one I've seen some time ago that says that you can
> vacuum the system using engine vacuum. If that is what you did you'll be ok
> for a while but later on you can expect some serious corrosion inside the
> A/C system. Engine vacuum is way not enough to get rid of all the water in
> the system and refrigerant with water becomes very corrosive. For that
> reason it is said to vacuum the system using a vacuum pump for about 45
> minutes.
>
> As to your compressor not cycling... the pressures in the system depend a
> lot on the ambient temperature. Since you said that it was 95 degrees the
> compressor will have a very hard time keeping the pressure low enough in
> that case especially if you have a regular fixed orifice tube. The variable
> orifice (VOV) helps to keep the pressures within the proper range and
makes
> the compresson cycle even at idle. If it's blowing cold air even at idle you
> should be fine.
> As to the amount of refrigerant... 28oz is a bit low. The best results are
> achieved with between 32 and 35oz of R-134a. If you add some you might
> actually see the compresson start to cycle but even if it switches off it
> will be for just a short moment at that temperature. It will stay running a
> lot longer.
>
> Good luck
>
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6149 (in Poland!)
> Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
> tomciodmc_at_dml_...
> www.deloreana.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > A big thanks goes out to who ever posted the cheap do it yourself AC
> > fix in the tech section. I followed his advice very closely and now
> > I have cold air! But.....
>










Messages in this topic (7)

1c. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
Posted by: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com valleyrat12
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:44 pm (PDT)

That all makes sense but why does the compressor cycle at idle with
the
blower fan off but stops cycling with the blower fan on? (The cabin
air fan)

Nathan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Nathan
>
> I sure hope it's not the one I've seen some time ago that says
that you can
> vacuum the system using engine vacuum. If that is what you did
you'll be ok
> for a while but later on you can expect some serious corrosion
inside the
> A/C system. Engine vacuum is way not enough to get rid of all the
water in
> the system and refrigerant with water becomes very corrosive. For
that
> reason it is said to vacuum the system using a vacuum pump for
about 45
> minutes.
>
> As to your compressor not cycling... the pressures in the system
depend a
> lot on the ambient temperature. Since you said that it was 95
degrees the
> compressor will have a very hard time keeping the pressure low
enough in
> that case especially if you have a regular fixed orifice tube. The
variable
> orifice (VOV) helps to keep the pressures within the proper range
and makes
> the compresson cycle even at idle. If it's blowing cold air even
at idle you
> should be fine.
> As to the amount of refrigerant... 28oz is a bit low. The best
results are
> achieved with between 32 and 35oz of R-134a. If you add some you
might
> actually see the compresson start to cycle but even if it switches
off it
> will be for just a short moment at that temperature. It will stay
running a
> lot longer.
>
> Good luck
>
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6149 (in Poland!)
> Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
> tomciodmc_at_dml_...
> www.deloreana.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > A big thanks goes out to who ever posted the cheap do it
yourself AC
> > fix in the tech section. I followed his advice very closely and
now
> > I have cold air! But.....
>









Messages in this topic (7)

1d. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
Posted by: "mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net" mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net roscsyl
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:47 pm (PDT)

The purpose of the A/C control system is to get the system into steady
state - that means getting all of pressures in the system to the correct
values. The only tool the system has to do that is the compressor and
control of the compressor's duty cycle - the amount of time the compressor
is running or not. There are two other controls that affect the system.
The temperature of the air moving through the condensor at the front
of the car and the temperature and amount of air moving across the
evaporator in the heater box.

The cabin blower takes warmer outside air and forces it over the evaporator.
This cools the outside air before it is blown into the cabin. It also removes
moisture from the air. The cooling of the air causes the freon in the evaporator
to heat up and evaporate, changing the pressure in the system. The A/C
control system senses this and tells the compressor to do it's thing. If the cabin
blower is not running, it takes a lot longer for the A/C system to change state
enough that the compressor needs to run again.

--
Mike




> That all makes sense but why does the compressor cycle at idle with the
> blower fan on but stops cycling with the blower fan off? (The cabin air fan)
>
> Nathan
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (7)

1e. Re: Fixed my AC! +observations/questions
Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:24 pm (PDT)

Hi Nathan

I think you mean the other way around. With the blower OFF the compressor
cycles and with the blower ON it does not cycle. This is perfectly normal.
The reason behind this is the relation between temperature and pressure of
the refrigerant in the system. When the blower is running you are actually
warming up the evaporator (the part inside the dash that cools the air) and
cooling the air being blown in at the same time. When the evaporator is
warmed up it raises the pressure of the refrigerant in the lines - low
pressure lines. This requires more work from the compressor but since the
engine (and compressor) speed is constant at idle it is not able to keep up
and never reaches the low pressure required to trip the low pressure switch
and switch off the compressor. For that reason you see a constant reading on
the pressure gauges and the compressor never cycles.
With the blower off the temperature in the evaporator drops very low and
thus lowers the pressure in the low pressure line in a way helping the
compressor reach that low pressure point where the switch trips stopping the
compressor.
You can do a test to see what happens with the cycle period by running the
engine at higher RPM. Try it. Run the engine at say 1500RPM. Switch the
blower off and measure the on and off times of the compressor. Then switch
the blower on 1 and check both times again. Do the same for every speed of
the blower. You will see that the higher the blower speed the longer the
compressor on time will be with shorter off time. For the same reason the
compressor will stay on longer the higher the ambient temperature is.

I hope this makes sense to you :)

In short:
Higher temperature = higher pressure
Lower temperature = lower pressure
and keep in mind that the compressor cycling is controlled by low pressure
side of the system.


Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com





----- Original Message -----

That all makes sense but why does the compressor cycle at idle with the
blower fan on but stops cycling with the blower fan off? (The cabin air fan)

Nathan


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Nathan
>
> I sure hope it's not the one I've seen some time ago that says that you
> can
> vacuum the system using engine vacuum. If that is what you did you'll be
> ok
> for a while but later on you can expect some serious corrosion inside the
> A/C system. Engine vacuum is way not enough to get rid of all the water in
> the system and refrigerant with water becomes very corrosive. For that
> reason it is said to vacuum the system using a vacuum pump for about 45
> minutes.
>
> As to your compressor not cycling... the pressures in the system depend a
> lot on the ambient temperature. Since you said that it was 95 degrees the
> compressor will have a very hard time keeping the pressure low enough in
> that case especially if you have a regular fixed orifice tube. The
> variable
> orifice (VOV) helps to keep the pressures within the proper range and
makes
> the compresson cycle even at idle. If it's blowing cold air even at idle
> you
> should be fine.
> As to the amount of refrigerant... 28oz is a bit low. The best results are
> achieved with between 32 and 35oz of R-134a. If you add some you might
> actually see the compresson start to cycle but even if it switches off it
> will be for just a short moment at that temperature. It will stay running
> a
> lot longer.
>
> Good luck
>
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6149 (in Poland!)
> Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
> tomciodmc_at_dml_...
> www.deloreana.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Nathan Sobieralski <valleyrat12_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > A big thanks goes out to who ever posted the cheap do it yourself AC
> > fix in the tech section. I followed his advice very closely and now
> > I have cold air! But.....
>










To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











Messages in this topic (7)

2a. Re: To replace or not to replace...
Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:28 am (PDT)

Hi

It might be a good idea to replace the bushings as they simply get old and
the rubber looses it's properties over time. They might look ok without any
cracks but they might be softer than they should be (or harder...)
The wheel bearings.. well, that depends on how many miles you have on them
now. If they are from the factory it might be a good idea to replace them -
their not that expensive.
What I would do in your case is REPLACE BOTH lower ball joints!! And get
them for one of the vendors! I had a cross referenced ball joints on my car
and one of them failed without warning - read: no fun. Replace them... just
in case.

Good luck

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 5225'17"N 211'59"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com



> Original message from "Matt Spittle" --------------
>
>
>> I'm putting my car back together from the frame up, and today I
>> removed my old ball joints from the control arms. Should I replace my
>> upper/lower control arm bushings?






Messages in this topic (6)

2b. Re: To replace or not to replace...
Posted by: "Steve Stankiewicz" protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com protodelorean
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:29 am (PDT)

I'll second Rich's statement about the bearings. Mine
were worn out also.

You'll need a press to get the old ones out, but a tip
for getting the new ones in easier (for either front
or rear) is to put the bearings in the freezer
overnight. (Wrap them up good or your wife may not be
too happy with you.) The the cold will cause them to
contract enough to make them all but drop right in.
As for the front hub or rear carrier, I've heard of
some people putting them in the oven to heat them up
and make them expand, but I didn't find that
necessary. If it's a good sunny day, just set them in
the sun and that should be plenty.



Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com


Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com





Messages in this topic (6)

2c. Re: To replace or not to replace...
Posted by: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com qumefox76
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:35 am (PDT)

On 6/4/06, Matt Spittle <matthew.spittle_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm putting my car back together from the frame up, and today I
> removed my old ball joints from the control arms. Should I replace my
> upper/lower control arm bushings? They look fine to me, no large
> cracks in them, anyway. Can they be pressed out without destroying
> them? I'd like to powdercoat the control arms, but I'd definitely
> have to press out the bushings before doing that. Additionally,
> should I replace my wheel bearings? They aren't making any noise.
>
> Just wondering what's really necessary here and what would be
> excessive (e.g., I'm not replacing my rotors or brake pads because I
> consider those to be frequently replaced items anyway).
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604


Well it could be argued either way really. I guess it really comes down to
budget. If you can afford to replace them, go ahead. But as long as they
aren't cracked and are still in good condition, there isn't any real reason
to replace them as long as you can get them pressed out and back in again
without destroying them. I know in my own rebuild I plan to just replace
the ones that need it. On mine it's the two bushings in each upper control
arm on both sides of the front suspension. all four of these are cracking
for some reason, while all the other bushings all the way around look ok.

Chris
VIN #3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (6)

3a. Re: DCS VIN Lineup
Posted by: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net bmdmc
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:29 am (PDT)

Now that would be a great picture, is the body off the frame? If so
can you get a pic with both in it?

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
<SNIP>

> I'd be happy to send you pics of 3209 but that would be an awful lot of
> pictures in it's current shape. :)
>
> --
> Chris
> VIN# 3209
> http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
>









Messages in this topic (7)

3b. Re: DCS VIN Lineup
Posted by: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com qumefox76
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:45 pm (PDT)

On 6/5/06, Bernie <bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Now that would be a great picture, is the body off the frame? If so
> can you get a pic with both in it?
>
> Bernie



Not sure I have a pic with both the frame AND the body in it. But if you'll
go to my site http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean and look through the
progress section, there are lots of pics of the car in the various states of
dismantling. Feel free to use any images you feel would be suitable if you
want.

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (7)

4a. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 11:29 am (PDT)

On 6/2/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> The other problem is the very undercapacity relays in the locking module.
> Eventually the contacts will weld together.

Actually, from my understanding this is less an issue of capacity as
it is with the relays not being sealed.

The stock relays in the door lock module are "open air". Meaning they
have a normal atmosphere around them. A relay like that will give off
a small spark every time it closes; the more current you drive through
it, the worse the spark is. Given that the solenoids draw a fair
amount of current, you get a fair amount of spark. Over time, this
wears away at the contacts and one day they simply fuse together
enough that the release springs aren't strong enough to release.

Most automotive relays are sealed. An inert gas such as nitrogen or
argon is placed into the relay chamber. In this inert environment, the
sparks don't happen and this problem is solved.

The fix for this issue is the replacement of the relays with a sealed
set. In my case, I went with DPNW's linear actuator solution to
replace my failed solenoids caused by the failed relays. While the
stock open-air relays are used in the DPNW kit, they simply drive a
pair of sealed outboard relays. Thus the current flowing through the
stock relays is so small, the spark is virtually non-existant. All of
the big current switching (and I hesitate to use the word "big", as
the linear actuators draw a fraction the current of the original
solenoids) happens on the sealed relays.

I did have to replace the stock relays in the lock module, though. My
originals were too far gone. John Hervey sells replacements on his web
site - it's a fairly easy soldering job to remove & replace them.

-Ryan





Messages in this topic (26)

4b. Re: Door Solenoids and lock modules.
Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:22 pm (PDT)

Sealed relays are not really "sealed". It may be true that they are
covered but they are certainly not operating in an inert atmosphere.
The main reason for sealing the relays is to prevent some of the
contaminants like dust in the air from getting on the contacts. There
are 2 ways to improve the longevity of the contact points. One is to
increase the size of the contact points so the arc is spread out over
a larger area causing less damage and the other is to suppress the arc
with capacitors. A conservative approach would be to attack the
problem using both methods. BTW the spark is not so much when you
operate the solenoids, it is when you try to shut them off, that is
when you draw the arc. It has to do with the electrical property known
as inductance. It is kind of like inertia. The electric wants to keep
going so it "jumps" the gap as the relay opens making an arc. The arc
can actually weld the contacts together. When that happens the
solenoids stay energized holding the doors locked till the battery
goes dead. You cannot manually overcome the force of the solenoid to
unlock the door either so you are stuck in the car. The bottom line is
to use a relay with a higher capacity (larger contacts) and to add a
capacitor across the contacts to absorb the inductance of the load.
Elvis has found a relay that has the same footprint and electrical
charactoristics but can handle a larger load. He also has a way to
reduce the standby (monitoring) current to put less load on the
battery. I am experimenting with the appropriate value of the
capacitor to reduce (or eliminate) the arc. With all these pieces (and
the right type of current limiter in case all fails) I think we should
be able to upgrade the OEM locking module for around $25 in parts.
Anyone handy with a soldering iron should be able to upgrade his
module in an hour. Not as good as a Lockzilla but a lot better than
the origional equipment. I do not want to have to open the doors and
replace the solenoids. I am looking for a simple and inexpensive
upgrade for the locking system. Of course this assumes the solenoids
have not been damaged. Even if they are they can be rewound inexpensively.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On 6/2/06, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_...> wrote:
> > The other problem is the very undercapacity relays in the locking
module.
> > Eventually the contacts will weld together.
>
> Actually, from my understanding this is less an issue of capacity as
> it is with the relays not being sealed.
>
> The stock relays in the door lock module are "open air". Meaning they
>








Messages in this topic (26)

5. exhaust parts for sale
Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:46 pm (PDT)

Hey Group,

I have both lower OEM muffler brackets available for sale. The have been
powdercoated a semigloss black and includes some hanger bushings that are only
a couple of years old. I replaced all the bushings and had the hangers
blasted and coated at the same time. I think I have two bushings left. A couple
of scratches but otherwise perfect.

First $30 gets them and I can bring them to Pheasant Run. Otherwise we can
work some shipping out.

I also have both OEM exhaust manifolds, crossover pipe, and '82 muffler with
tips. I can bring these to PR also, any offers? One broken stud on the
xover pipe, the manifolds need to be refinished.

Thanks
Andy

Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)

6a. Re: Michigan Owners Going To DCS
Posted by: "Shannon Yocom" ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com ssdelorean
Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:48 pm (PDT)

Patrick,
Since your practically up in the Great White North it would be more direct if you
go down the West side of Michigan & meet up with Erik/Fred Geerdink in Holland,
MI. You could then meet up with the Sandor & the Detroit crew on I-94 just below
Holland.

Erik's contact info is on the back of the latest DCO Newsletter that you have. If
it's not up with you give me a call & I can get you his number.

Glad you can actually make DCS since telling us you couldn't a few weeks ago!

More caravan info here:
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/events.htm

Shannon Y
16506



Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:28 am (PDT)
From: "Sandor Piszar" piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Michigan Owners Going To DCS

 

A group of us will be meeting on Thursday, June 15th, 8am at a nice 
rest stop on I-94, 5 miles west of I-275 for the westbound I-94 
traffic. It is near mile marker 188, just west of Belleville road.  
The more the merrier!  There are currently 4 or 5 of us confirmed so 
far.


Sandor
# 3002

 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi there,
>     Just curious as to when you Michigan owners are planning on 
heading  
> to the DCS.  I'm leaving on Thursday afternoon from the Cheboygan, 
MI  
> area, and would love to meet up with anyone else in a caravan if  
> possible.  Let me know either on list or off list.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________

6b. Re: Michigan Owners Going To DCS
    Posted by: "dmcerik" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com dmcerik
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:50 pm (PDT)

Patrick,
We could meet up near my place.  From where you are at you are better 
off going through Grand Rapids and then over near Holland (where I 
live).  If we meet up early enough we could meet up with the east 
michigan folks once they get into Indiana.

Erik




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hi there,
>     Just curious as to when you Michigan owners are planning on 
heading  
> to the DCS.  I'm leaving on Thursday afternoon from the Cheboygan, 
MI  
> area, and would love to meet up with anyone else in a caravan if  
> possible.  Let me know either on list or off list.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
>









Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7. Finally!  Its cold in my Delorean!
    Posted by: "dmcerik" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com dmcerik
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:49 pm (PDT)

Well, I bought my car 7 years ago this month, and finally I have a 
working A/C system.  The last DCS I went to was the Memphis show, and I 
drove the car there with no A/C.  I wasn't going to do the same this 
year.  So, we replaced everything, except the stuff under the dash.  
I've only driven it about 8 miles since the charge this morning, 7 of 
those on the highway.  Its so nice having the windows closed and the 
A/C on........this will make this years Delorean driving season much 
more enjoyable.

Seeya in Chicago!
Erik
04512








Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8a. Re: DeLorean Info on Autoblog.com
    Posted by: "deloreandmc81" shelbycobra_at_dml_earthlink.net deloreandmc81
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 1:51 pm (PDT)

Hello again just wanted to let everyone know that there seems to be
quite a few things about the DeLorean on Autoblog.com lately.  If you
check out
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/06/05/think-different-apple-delorean/
you'll see what this guy has done with his DeLorean.  Hope you guys
enjoy it!

James Andrew Dille
6408









--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "deloreandmc81" <shelbycobra_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
>   Just thought I'd give you all a heads up on an article that I saw on
> Autoblog.com.  The article is Back To The Future: DeLorean Motor Co.
> alive and kicking in Florida.  So if you want to check it out the
> address is www.autoblog.com/2006/05/25/b/#comments.  Enjoy!!
> 
> James Andrew Dille
> 6408
>








Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

8b. Re: DeLorean Info on Autoblog.com
    Posted by: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com qumefox76
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:47 pm (PDT)

On 6/5/06, deloreandmc81 <shelbycobra_at_dml_earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Hello again just wanted to let everyone know that there seems to be
> quite a few things about the DeLorean on Autoblog.com lately.  If you
> check out
> http://www.autoblog.com/2006/06/05/think-different-apple-delorean/
> you'll see what this guy has done with his DeLorean.  Hope you guys
> enjoy it!
>
> James Andrew Dille
> 6408


I'd actually thought doing something similar to this myself. But after
thinking about it at length. I desided I'd rather spend the money towards
performance instead. Not to mention i'd really like to keep what little
trunk space the D has free for when I DO actually take the car on a trip and
have to haul luggage. It is a neat idea though. Though it seems like he
could stand to have a brighter projector for daytime demonstrations.

Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9. Re: Found Great Product for Clearing Fogged Lenses
    Posted by: "Todd Nelson" tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu todddmc12
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:43 pm (PDT)

Tuxr,

As far as setting your clock goes, when the clock loses power it 
automatically returns to 12:00.  You might disconnect your battery, or just 
the fuse to the clock, at 11:59 (am or pm).  Then at 12:00 quickly reconnect 
it.  You might also want to try the two buttons on the clock again, mine are 
really touchy, but they do work if you use a paper clip or something 
similar.

Good luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 12:36 AM
Subject: [DML] Found Great Product for Clearing Fogged Lenses


> My clock was so fogged and hazed I couldn't even see any of the
> numbers.  I went to Discount Advanced Auto Parts, bought 5 Minute
> Optical Polish, cost about $10.  Just put the piece into a drill,
> stuck on a pad, slightly wet it, and polished the lens.  I tried it,
> figuring it may not work, but I probably couldn't make it worse.
> But . . . it now looks brand new, clear as can be.  I couldn't
> believe it, and I'm not the most handy person.  I was fully under
> the assumption that my risk was not that it wouldn't work, but that
> I would have a drill inside the car and somehow end up with a broken
> CD player, ripped leather, and cracked windshield.
>
> I just taped around the clock so the pad wouldn't touch anything
> else, then surrounded it by newspaper so nothing would end up
> through the car.  After it worked on the clock, I tried it on an old
> set of tail light lenses I had, didn't spend alot of time with it,
> just enough to know it worked on that too.  And I didn't tape
> anything, the pad was hitting the black plastic around the lenses,
> didn't harm them.  The only problem I have now is the clock is 4
> hours and 37 minutes off, and I can't change it, and since I've
> heard they don't keep time well anyway, any idea how long will it be
> before it's right????






Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10. Re: DCS MUSEUM JACKPOT
    Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:43 pm (PDT)

 
 
For a US location, either Detroit or Bedminster would be more appropriate  
places, IMHO.  
 
Andy
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/5/2006 12:36:40 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com writes:

The  national Metropolitan owners association (MOCHNA) has their own  
metropolitan museum where they store all of the info on the met and its  
production.

It may be appropriate to have a DeLorean museum some  time in the future.

It could be in Houston  ?

Bob



 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

11. Re: Morning session (9am-11am) of Early DeLorean Seminars is cancell
    Posted by: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net d_rex_2002
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:47 pm (PDT)

Due to guest speaker scheduling conflicts and cancellations,
and in an effort to make additional time available for the
tentative BTTF screening on Thursday morning, June 15 at 9am,
the morning session of Early DeLorean Car Seminars (9am-11am)
has been cancelled.  However, the afternoon session (1pm-3pm)
will still be presented and accordingly, the afternoon session
may run longer, incorporating some of the morning material.
In general, there will be more material and less speakers.

For those who have RSVP'd for one or both sessions, you should
be receiving an email with additional details about the change
of schedule soon.  Some of the material we cannot present at
DCS 2006 will hopefully be presented in 2 years, at DCS 2008.

There is also a possibility of additional question and answer
session(s) early Friday morning BEFORE the driving tour starts.

Thanks,
Rich W.









Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

12. Re: BTTF screening Plan C (pre-DCS) is in the works
    Posted by: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net d_rex_2002
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:48 pm (PDT)

Well, it looks like Plan B was shot down due to the film print
not being available in the right format to be played at the
theatre within walking distance of PR, so I am on my 3rd and
final attempt (Plan C) to get a BTTF screening booked nearby.

With "input" from others, it looks like the screening day and
time will tentatively be on Thursday morning, June 15 at 9am
at the Randall Theater (no relation to Randall Brown, 3M) in
nearby Batavia, IL.  This is a short drive from PR.

I'm hoping to hear back by Wednesday, to give at least a one
week notice to everyone.  Let's hope the 3rd time is a charm.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Plan B is in the works for a BTTF screening Friday morning (10:04AM)
> at the nearby Charlestowne 18 Cinemas (walking distance from PR).
> 








Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

13. DMA Caravans to 2006 Delorean Car show (Chicago)
    Posted by: "Delorean Mid-Altantic Club" clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com dmaclubevents
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:24 pm (PDT)

The DMA has set up a list of Caravans from the Mid-Atlantic Region to the
2006 Delorean Car Show Next week in Chicago!
 
Details can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/DCS06caravan.htm
 
If you want to start your own caravan, or hook up with an existing one,
please read the website and send an e-mail to the address on the site to
coordinate or join a caravan (DO NOT REPLY TO THIS E-MAIL!)
 
Caravan details are subject to change with LITTLE NOTICE!  Make sure to
follow up with your Caravan leader for final information.
 
Details about Delorean Car Show 2006 can be found at www.delorancarshow.com
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

14. Re: Dunking Booth? Can we put VB in there?
    Posted by: "Marc Levy" malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com malevy_nj
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:26 pm (PDT)


I am 300 messages behind, so Ken may have replied
already.

He has asked me to run the dunking booth, and based on
previous discussion on the DML Video Bob will be
participating, as will James Espey and myself.

I will be looking to recruit more dunkiees at the
show.  I suspect we can get a few of the DML
moderators in there, and some of the other vendors.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

15. Changing the accumulator?
    Posted by: "Nick Kemp" nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net nk1165
    Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 8:32 pm (PDT)

I have an early D with the "non-corvette" style accumulator.  Since I was
thinking of changing to R128, and that requires an accumulator change out by
some descriptions, has anyone an opinion of how to change the accumulator to
a more standard version (Corvette or other)?

Nick
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.2/356 - Release Date: 6/5/2006





Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------