From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 7:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3281

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Warm-up Circuit problem
From: vin5497


2. Which wire for power antenna?
From: Kevin Abato


3. Air Dam Install
From: Nick Kemp


4a. Re: AC Compressor?
From: David Teitelbaum

4b. Re: AC Compressor?
From: David Teitelbaum

4c. Re: AC Compressor?
From: Tell you if you ask.


5a. Re: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?
From: Kevin Abato

5b. Re: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?
From: Tom Tait


6. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED WARNING
From: John Rydholm


7. Re: facias wanted
From: Brandon Shelton


8a. Two quick questions..
From: Hank

8b. Re: Two quick questions..
From: David Teitelbaum

8c. Re: Two quick questions..
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net


9. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
From: malevy_nj


10. Small San Diego get together / tech session
From: Christopher Mack


11a. AC Compressor update
From: Chris

11b. Re: AC Compressor update
From: Dave Phelps


12. AZ-D Caravan to DCS
From: M. P. Olans



Messages

1. Re: Warm-up Circuit problem
Posted by: "vin5497" DMC5497_at_dml_comcast.net vin5497
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:19 pm (PDT)

John, thanks for the heads up. I'll start with cleaning the inlet screen once I receive your copper gaskets. If that is not it, I'll probably order one after the show.

Wyatt
VIN 05497

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Wyatt, Be careful in taking it apart, There are small parts inside
that will
> come loose and you will have to keep up with where they go. The
only thing
> you can do is maybe clean it if it looks like it needs it. The
adjustments
> would have to be done with test equipment made for doing it. If
you decide
> to get a new rebuilt one, I have them for $149.95 with a 5 year
warranty.
>
> Let me know if I can help.
>
> John Hervey
>
> www.specialtauto.com <http://www.specialtauto.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> vin5497
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 7:05 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Warm-up Circuit problem
>
>
>
> I am having a problem with the Warm-up Circuit. The engine starts
and
> idles fine, cold or warm. Within a minute of starting, the engine
> begins to hesitate during acceleration. After the engine has
warmed
> up, it runs fine. This problem occurred without warning. One day
the
> car was running fine. I drove it after it sat for 2 weeks and it
has
> been demonstrating these symptoms ever since.
> What are the most common failures in the Warm-up Circuit?
> Is there any troubleshooting I can do without a fuel pressure
gauge?
> If it is the Control Pressure Regulator, can it be removed and
taken
> apart without the risk of damaging it more? I would really like to fix
> this, but I do not want to make things worse a week before I
drive
> it to the DCS.
>
> Wyatt
> VIN 05497
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (4)

2. Which wire for power antenna?
Posted by: "Kevin Abato" delorean_at_dml_abato.net iguanajade
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:21 pm (PDT)

I want to install a switch in my center console to cut power to the antenna.
Why? I listen to mostly my ipod (directly connected) and the CD Player. I
think the car looks nicer without the antenna up while driving and also
would like to preserve the life of the antenna mast.

When I installed my radio several years ago, I thought I remember there being a wire that runs up the center console that feeds power to the antenna
if the radio is on/off. Is my memory correct? If so, what color the wire
that I want to tap into with my switch?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)

3. Air Dam Install
Posted by: "Nick Kemp" nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net nk1165
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:21 pm (PDT)

Having seen what happens when the epoxy frame coating breaks, I HIGHLY recommend not drilling or using anything that will break the epoxy seal.
Rusty frames are not cool!

When I had the car apart (fixing the frame) I installed the rubber dam without making any holes. It is pressure fit. Of course this is a lot easier when the boy is off:-)

Nick
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 6/7/2006


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (6)

4a. Re: AC Compressor?
Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:23 pm (PDT)

Forget the relay section. Make sure fuse #10 is good and you have power on both sides of it (with the ignition on). Now stick a paper clip or jumper lead into the plug on the low pressure switch. Put the mode switch into A/C or MAX A/C. Now if you don't have power to the curly red wire you have a problem at the mode switch, a bad connection, or a broken wire. If you have an early vin you may have to also jumper the high pressure switch. My guess is the low pressure switch is holding you back because the system leaked and you do not have enough refrigerent. Refer to Workshop Manual M:18:19 The wires you see where the relays go are to bypass the fan fail relay and the console lights. The missing relay is for the lamp delay.
Refer to M:07:01-:02 You can leave it alone, just check the double one on the extreme left (which bypass the fan fail relay) and make sure it does not show signs of overheating. This is probably NOT an electrical problem, check your low side pressure. If it is not anywhere near 60 LBS you are not going to feel any cold air (unless it is wintertime).
BTW this area is important. You should make sure all of the fuses are the correct size for the spot it is in, there are no heat damage signs, (like melted plastic) and everything is clean and tight. Leave the fuse cover off but nearby. Move the Zilla off the fuses.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I just posted a picture in the photo section. Album is "Relays". I
have no relay in #6 and some very strange looking wires in #8 where there isn't supposed to be anything. I have no power to the red curly wire on the AC compressor. This is all PO stuff that I never even l








Messages in this topic (7)

4b. Re: AC Compressor?
Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:23 pm (PDT)

I just did a quick check, the LockZilla is in the right spot. It looks like the PO did things OK in there. It just needs to be checked at least once a year for signs of heat damage. Check the fuses, I can't see them in your picture and don't put the cover back on the fuseblock. BTW how can you not care if the A/C works? Mine broke and I lost a couple of lbs on a trip home from a car show. A Delorean is like a greenhouse, it really traps the sunlight and the heat!!!! A properly working A/C system in a Delorean is absolutely necessary!
Unless it is under 50 degrees maybe.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I just posted a picture in the photo section. Album is "Relays". I
have no relay in #6 and some very strange looking wires in #8 where there isn't supposed to be anything. I have no power to the red curly wire on the AC compressor. This is all PO stuff that I never even looked at before because I didn't care if the AC wasn't working. Ideas?
>
> Chris
> 06301
>
> vin5497 <DMC5497_at_dml_...> wrote:
> It may be a bad Field Coil in the A/C compressor clutch. I
just
> recently replaced one. With the engine running and the A/C on, check
> if there is power going to the Field Coil. Should be 12 volts at the
> connector on the wire comming from the wire harness going to the coil
> (the curly red wire). If there is 12 volts, check the resistance from
> the coil wire to ground. The resistance should be around 4 ohms. If it
> is zero or a high resistance, you have a bad Field Coil. If none of
> this makes since, email me and I'll walk you through it.
>
> Wyatt
> VIN 05497
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > OK......I live in OR so air has never been much of a concern.
> However,
> > in the interest of getting everything to work I'm trying to get the
> > compressor to show some sign of life. The clutch never engages. Is
> > there a fuse, relay, or a connection I should be checking other than
> > the normal fuse in the box (it's fine).
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> > 06301
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (7)

4c. Re: AC Compressor?
Posted by: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com cruznmd
Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 6:02 am (PDT)

Something else that no one has mentioned,is you should check for the presence and proper functioning of the A/C compressor and engine cooling fan diodes.

Mine were completely missing and I couldn't figure out why the fans and clutch wouldn't come on after my A/C was overhauled.

The diodes are small, plain black cylinders about the size of a female pinky finger and are located in the main fuse/relay compartment. One connects to a black/orange wire and a pink wire. I forget what the other one connects to. I don't have the wiring diagram handy and I'm going from memory.

I don't know what your level of electrical knowledge is so forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know:

1. A diode is basically an electrical check valve. It only allows power to flow one way through it. There are many types (ie Light Emitting Diode (LED) or Zener diodes) You only need a regular type.
To check the proper function of a diode, hook a multimeter to each end of the diode. With the meter hooked up one way, you should show an "open" or infinite resistance (ohms). When you reverse the meter leads it should read as a "short" or zero resistance.

2. If yours are missing like mine were, you can buy them cheaply at Radio Shack or order some heavy duty ones from John Hervey. The OEM diodes are difficult to come by. The diodes can ONLY BE INSTALLED IN ONE DIRECTION. If you install them backwards, they will block current instead of passing it and the A/C compressor and cooling fans will fail to engage!

In our particular application, one diode prevents the engine cooling circuit from activating the A/C clutch when the A/C is selected to "off" but the engine needs cooling. If I remember correctly, the other diode prevents voltage from being back-fed through the engine fan circuit to the voltmeter or other gauge. I can't remember exactly which one. The A/C and fan wiring is all tied together so the diodes are used to enable the two systems to function seperately. Consult the master wiring diagram for specific details.

Rich A.
#5335



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Forget the relay section. Make sure fuse #10 is good and you have
> power on both sides of it (with the ignition on). Now stick a paper
> clip or jumper lead into the plug on the low pressure switch. Put
the
> mode switch into A/C or MAX A/C. Now if you don't have power to the
> curly red wire you have a problem at the mode switch, a bad
> connection, or a broken wire. If you have an early vin you may have
to
> also jumper the high pressure switch. My guess is the low pressure
> switch is holding you back because the system leaked and you do not
> have enough refrigerent. Refer to Workshop Manual M:18:19 The wires
> you see where the relays go are to bypass the fan fail relay and the
> console lights. The missing relay is for the lamp
delay.
> Refer to M:07:01-:02 You can leave it alone, just check the double
one
> on the extreme left (which bypass the fan fail relay) and make sure
it
> does not show signs of overheating. This is probably NOT an
electrical
> problem, check your low side pressure. If it is not anywhere near 60
> LBS you are not going to feel any cold air (unless it is
wintertime).
> BTW this area is important. You should make sure all of the fuses
are
> the correct size for the spot it is in, there are no heat damage
> signs, (like melted plastic) and everything is clean and tight.
Leave
> the fuse cover off but nearby. Move the Zilla off the fuses.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I just posted a picture in the photo section. Album is "Relays". I
> have no relay in #6 and some very strange looking wires in #8 where
> there isn't supposed to be anything. I have no power to the red
curly
> wire on the AC compressor. This is all PO stuff that I never even l
>









Messages in this topic (7)

5a. Re: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?
Posted by: "Kevin Abato" delorean_at_dml_abato.net iguanajade
Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:24 pm (PDT)

I found it.

On my 1983 Delorean It is the white wire that runs up the center console.
Behind the driver's seat it has a connector that adapts it into a green
color wire. The green wire runs to a relay block where it spans out to a
white, yellow and brown set of wires that goes back to the rear pontoon.
When I separated the connector where the wire goes from White to Green, the mast lowers down. When re-connected, it raises again.

I can sever the white wire on the center console, and wire my switch in there. :)

Thanks

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


_____

From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:32 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?



I forgot to ask, what's the brand and model number for your radio?

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:13 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I just looked at my schematic and the antenna isn't even listed. If you aren't using an amplifier you could cut the wire near the radio and add your switch in there. It should accomplish the same result.

Mine is an early car and if I remember correctly the antenna wires ran separately behind the driver's seat and into the rear pontoon. It was very obvious.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:01 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I have no amp in the car....

I do remember a wire on the radio to be hooked up to the power antenna lead, but I don't remember which wire it was on the Delorean that it attached to.

_____ 

From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:46 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

Kevin,

Do you have your wiring diagram for your radio? If not, you can probably find it for download on the web.

It can depend on the type of radio you have. Some have separate antenna and amplifier turn on wires while some have just antenna and are also used to turn on the amplifier. If you have the latter and using an amplifier you will have to add the switch after the amplifier.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> .com; DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I want to install a switch in my center console to cut power to the antenna.
Why? I listen to mostly my ipod (directly connected) and the CD Player. I think the car looks nicer without the antenna up while driving and also would like to preserve the life of the antenna mast. 

When I installed my radio several years ago, I thought I remember there being a wire that runs up the center console that feeds power to the antenna if the radio is on/off. Is my memory correct? If so, what color the wire that I want to tap into with my switch?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________

5b. Re: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?
    Posted by: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com thomasttait
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 12:00 pm (PDT)

Note that DMCH has defroster switches without the logo stenciled onto them, therefore a blank on/off switch that you can install replacing a blank nest to a window switch.

 

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 7:52 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

 

I found it.

On my 1983 Delorean It is the white wire that runs up the center console.
Behind the driver's seat it has a connector that adapts it into a green color wire. The green wire runs to a relay block where it spans out to a white, yellow and brown set of wires that goes back to the rear pontoon.
When I separated the connector where the wire goes from White to Green, the mast lowers down. When re-connected, it raises again.

I can sever the white wire on the center console, and wire my switch in there. :)

Thanks

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


_____ 

From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:32 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I forgot to ask, what's the brand and model number for your radio?

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:13 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I just looked at my schematic and the antenna isn't even listed. If you aren't using an amplifier you could cut the wire near the radio and add your switch in there. It should accomplish the same result.

Mine is an early car and if I remember correctly the antenna wires ran separately behind the driver's seat and into the rear pontoon. It was very obvious.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:01 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I have no amp in the car....

I do remember a wire on the radio to be hooked up to the power antenna lead, but I don't remember which wire it was on the Delorean that it attached to.

_____ 

From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of timnagin
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:46 PM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: RE: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

Kevin,

Do you have your wiring diagram for your radio? If not, you can probably find it for download on the web.

It can depend on the type of radio you have. Some have separate antenna and amplifier turn on wires while some have just antenna and are also used to turn on the amplifier. If you have the latter and using an amplifier you will have to add the switch after the amplifier.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com [mailto:DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Abato
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:44 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> .com; DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroup <mailto:DMCForum%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
Subject: [DMCForum] Which wire for power antenna?

I want to install a switch in my center console to cut power to the antenna.
Why? I listen to mostly my ipod (directly connected) and the CD Player.
I
think the car looks nicer without the antenna up while driving and also would like to preserve the life of the antenna mast. 

When I installed my radio several years ago, I thought I remember there being a wire that runs up the center console that feeds power to the antenna if the radio is on/off. Is my memory correct? If so, what color the wire that I want to tap into with my switch?

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

6. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED  WARNING
    Posted by: "John Rydholm" ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com ebondefender
    Date: Thu Jun 8, 2006 9:24 pm (PDT)

I guess I don't have to worry since 10715's whole front end is gone to heck....basically. :) I saw some lower arms that were stainless steel, but those were around $450 I think...each.*choke*!!! Then again, they also had the whole frame in stainless for $8K~. Saying hi all the way from Weston, MO right now. Too bad I can't go to Chicago and all next week. Stupid work. Ah, well. At least I replaced her rear tires. Got rid of those 265's.
See you guys later
John Rydholm
#10715; Romeo, MI

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Okay Owners,
> I thought I'd share this little Mishap as you might want to start 
> checking all your bolts even the treiling arm bolts before you go to 
> Pheasent run no one want's anyone to get hurt or thier cars. see pic 
> under control arm bolt in photo's. I was removing the rack, lower 
> control arms,tyrods, springs shocks & spindles to clean up & replace 
> any bad joints and found this on my 538 car Passenger side.
> Lawrence
>








Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7. Re: facias wanted
    Posted by: "Brandon Shelton" morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com morpheus34711
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 6:02 am (PDT)

I have my old rear fascia sitting in my garage collecting dust.  It's in decent shape, just needs to be re-painted.  Make me an offer if you are interested.

-Brandon Shelton
Vin #4205
Orlando, FL.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Just wondering if anyone had any refurbished front or rear facias'
for sale?
>    
>   How much?  email me off-list
> 
>  __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8a. Two quick questions..
    Posted by: "Hank" heskin_at_dml_gmail.com henryhank
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 11:55 am (PDT)

1 - The small ground strap that runs from the front-left fender to the hood has broken.  I'll fix it before DCS, but does that ground strap serve any known, useful purpose?  Could this be why my windshield washer motor no longer functions?

2 - I recently had my oil changed, and it appears that it was over-filled.  The dipstick reads about 3/4" ABOVE the full mark (yes, before starting the motor after sitting overnight).  I've already driven about 250 miles in this condition, with no adverse effect as far as I can tell.  Should I drain it down to the "full" mark?  What is the worst effect of running with the overfill?

thanks,
-Hank #1619




Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

8b. Re: Two quick questions..
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 12:13 pm (PDT)

That wire is a "Bonding Jumper". It's purpose is to electrically connect (bond) the hood to the rest of the car. It is more for the radio and it is also a way to protect you if the wire to the light was to ground out. In that case the fuse powering the light circuit would blow because the electric would return to the battery through the bonding jumper. All the panels on the car including the moulding on the windshield are (or at least should be) electrically connected.
Since this car is built on a fiberglass underbody it is not all grounded like a car built out of metal.
 You should not have the motor overfilled with oil. It can cause the motor to leak and it can cause foaming inside. Drain it (or suck it
out) so that in the morning before you start it the level is 1/2 way between full and low. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Hank <heskin_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> 1 - The small ground strap that runs from the front-left fender to the 
> hood has broken.  I'll fix it before DCS, but does that ground strap 
> serve any known, useful purpose?  Could this be why my windshield 
> washer motor no longer functions?
> 
> 2 - I recently had my oil changed, and it appears that it was ov








Messages in this topic (3)
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8c. Re: Two quick questions..
    Posted by: "mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net" mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net roscsyl
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 1:18 pm (PDT)

Overfilled oil is a Bad Thing.  If the level in the sump is too high, the crankshaft can start to beat the oil like a kitchen mixer.  This mixes a lot of air into the oil, which increases the oil volume causing more mixing.  This also changes the flow characteristics of the oil, which makes it very hard for the oil pump to draw oil out of the sump.  Oil pressure drops, which puts your bearings at risk.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>: -------------- 


> 1 - The small ground strap that runs from the front-left fender to the 
> hood has broken. I'll fix it before DCS, but does that ground strap 
> serve any known, useful purpose? Could this be why my windshield 
> washer motor no longer functions?
> 
> 2 - I recently had my oil changed, and it appears that it was 
> over-filled. The dipstick reads about 3/4" ABOVE the full mark (yes, 
> before starting the motor after sitting overnight). I've already 
> driven about 250 miles in this condition, with no adverse effect as 
> far as I can tell. Should I drain it down to the "full" mark? What is 
> the worst effect of running with the overfill?
> 
> thanks,
> -Hank #1619

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (3)
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9. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
    Posted by: "malevy_nj" malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com malevy_nj
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 11:57 am (PDT)

Anyone interested in getting a group together to see Cars?



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Forum,
> 
> Looks like a "No Go" for the BTTF screening, due to contact issues.
> 
> Disney will not allow for a Universal movie to be played after it on 
> the same night and Disney "Cars" will be playing all that week.
>







Messages in this topic (16)
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10. Small San Diego get together / tech session
    Posted by: "Christopher Mack" christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com christopher_mack
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 11:58 am (PDT)

Hello,

I know this is very short notice, but I thought I would give it a try anyway.,  Tomorrow I will be betting together with some other DeLorean owners in San Diego so that we can do minor work to each other's cars ..  We are meeting at 9 a.m.
If anyone is interested in attending you can send me an email at christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com  and I can give you details and directions.  I check my email often

Thanks

Chris
DMC6453


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)
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11a. AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "Chris" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com chrisau79
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 11:58 am (PDT)

Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt. 

The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease. 

Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough. 
When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?

Chris
06301







Messages in this topic (2)
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11b. Re: AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "Dave Phelps" dphelps17_at_dml_gmail.com delorean17
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 1:18 pm (PDT)

I charged my car up with Freeze 12 last week.  I could not be happier.  I drove 512 miles over the weekend with the air on the whole time with absolutely no problems.  It seems to be blowing just as cold as my R12 did.
The whole kit is only about $50 on ebay.  You will have to remove the old shrader valves and install the Freeze 12 fittings on your compressor.  Takes about 2 minutes.  I say go for it.

Dave
6286




On 6/9/06, Chris <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

   Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt.
>
> The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch 
> resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as 
> it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean 
> electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease.
>
> Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to 
> convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough.
> When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was 
> a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding 
> Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?
>
> Chris
> 06301
>
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
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12. AZ-D Caravan to DCS
    Posted by: "M. P. Olans" mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com tp8534
    Date: Fri Jun 9, 2006 1:18 pm (PDT)

Hi All,
     The AZ-D is set on their route to DCS 2006.  We plan to camp out in Albuquerque, Oklahoma City, and St. Louis on the way there.  We have already selected our hotels.  If you want to join us along the way, drop me a line and I will let you know where we will be and when.

See you there!

Matt
www.az-d.org  The Arizona DeLorean Club
VIN 16816









Messages in this topic (1)
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