From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 7:15 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3282

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Carfax account
From: Joshua Schwartz


2a. Re: AC Compressor update
From: Tom Tait

2b. Re: AC Compressor update
From: Bernie

2c. Re: AC Compressor update
From: Chris Shepherd

2d. Re: AC Compressor update
From: John Hervey

2e. Re: AC Compressor update
From: John Hervey


3a. Re: Two quick questions..
From: rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net

3b. Re: Two quick questions..
From: David Teitelbaum


4a. Delorean Product Oversight Committee
From: Tom Watkins

4b. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
From: Matt Spittle

4c. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
From: delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net

4d. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
From: David Teitelbaum


5. Arriving at Midway Airport 6/15 by 1p.m. need ride to Pheasant Run
From: Christopher Mack


6. DMCVINS.COM
From: Bernie


7a. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED WARNING
From: Lawrence Lormand

7b. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED WARNING
From: David Teitelbaum


8. windshield trim - help!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


9a. Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
From: seanhagan

9b. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
From: Chris Murley

9c. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
From: rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com


10. Re: Green O-rings for AC Work
From: Nathan Sobieralski


11a. Voice Unit in Delorean from Delorean World Vol 10 #2
From: birdwell77095

11b. Re: Voice Unit in Delorean from Delorean World Vol 10 #2
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com


12. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
From: d_rex_2002


13. A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasant Ru
From: joekuchan



Messages

1. Carfax account
Posted by: "Joshua Schwartz" Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com joshieloo1292
Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:23 am (PDT)

Does anyone on the list have an active Carfax account that I could check a VIN with (non-DMC)? If so, please e-mail me.
Thanks,
- Joshua Schwartz





Messages in this topic (9)

2a. Re: AC Compressor update
Posted by: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com thomasttait
Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:23 am (PDT)

Some R12 substitutes are highly flammable. With a very slow leak, no
big deal, with a catastrophic leak it's similar to releasing 2 pounds of
propane gas. I've seen video but never first hand.



I'm not sure if this applies to Freeze 12. I do use Freeze 12 and work
under the assumption that its both toxic and flammable, and take
precautions accordingly when charging or servicing. I'm not sure it is
as efficient as R12, but it works.



Tom



From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Chris
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 6:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] AC Compressor update

 

Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt. 





Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

2b. Re: AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net bmdmc
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:25 am (PDT)

If you use the Freeze 12, which I have used, you must and I do mean
must, stay on top of the system.  Measureing pressure and ensuring
that you add new refirgerant as required.  And once in a while add the
can of oil and refrigerant, if required.  Otherwise you will end up
replacing the AC compresor.  If you still have cold air blowing
through the summer, go ahead and find a place to replace the Freeze 12
with R12, but you have to tell them that there is Freeze 12 in the system.

Bernie


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Phelps" <dphelps17_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I charged my car up with Freeze 12 last week.  I could not be
happier.  I
> drove 512 miles over the weekend with the air on the whole time with
> absolutely no problems.  It seems to be blowing just as cold as my
R12 did.
> The whole kit is only about $50 on ebay.  You will have to remove
the old
> shrader valves and install the Freeze 12 fittings on your
compressor.  Takes
> about 2 minutes.  I say go for it.
> 
> Dave
> 6286
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 6/9/06, Chris <chrisau79_at_dml_...> wrote:
> 
>    Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt.
> >
> > The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch
> > resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as
> > it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean
> > electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease.
> >
> > Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to
> > convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough.
> > When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was
> > a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding
> > Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?
> >
> > Chris
> > 06301
> >
> > 
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

2c. Re: AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "Chris Shepherd" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com chrisau79
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:33 am (PDT)

Sounds good..........Did you replace both shrader valves or just the low side. The kit I got doesn't have a high side valve that will work. It's a reverse thread.
   
  Chris
  06301

Dave Phelps <dphelps17_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
          I charged my car up with Freeze 12 last week. I could not be happier. I
drove 512 miles over the weekend with the air on the whole time with
absolutely no problems. It seems to be blowing just as cold as my R12 did.
The whole kit is only about $50 on ebay. You will have to remove the old
shrader valves and install the Freeze 12 fittings on your compressor. Takes
about 2 minutes. I say go for it.

Dave
6286

On 6/9/06, Chris <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt.
>
> The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch
> resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as
> it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean
> electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease.
>
> Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to
> convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough.
> When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was
> a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding
> Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?
>
> Chris
> 06301
>
> 
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



         

 __________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

2d. Re: AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:40 am (PDT)

Chris, I have used Freeze 12 for years and a lot of Delorean are using it
also.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/AC-Cooling.html



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Chris 
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 7:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] AC Compressor update

Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt. 

The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch 
resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as 
it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean 
electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease. 

Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to 
convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough. 
When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was 
a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding 
Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?

Chris
06301







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
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Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

2e. Re: AC Compressor update
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:41 am (PDT)

If vanyone is needing Freeze 12 and all the fittings, I have them on the web
site.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/AC-Cooling.html




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Dave Phelps
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 2:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] AC Compressor update

I charged my car up with Freeze 12 last week.  I could not be happier.  I
drove 512 miles over the weekend with the air on the whole time with
absolutely no problems.  It seems to be blowing just as cold as my R12 did.
The whole kit is only about $50 on ebay.  You will have to remove the old
shrader valves and install the Freeze 12 fittings on your compressor.  Takes
about 2 minutes.  I say go for it.

Dave
6286




On 6/9/06, Chris <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

   Thanks to all who responded, especially Tom and Wyatt.
>
> The problem is that the charge is low. Jumping the low pressure switch
> resulted in the compressor clutch coming on and everything running as
> it should with a proper charge. I now have several more clean
> electrical connections that have been coated with dielectric grease.
>
> Now to take the AC test so I can buy some R12! No, I'm not going to
> convert it. There is still pressure in the system, just not enough.
> When I depressed the shrader valve on the low pressure side there was
> a definate pfffist (the engine was off). Has anyone tried adding
> Freeze 12? What I read indicates that it will work.........but?
>
> Chris
> 06301
>
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 







Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

3a. Re: Two quick questions..
    Posted by: "rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net" rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net rdcejc
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:25 am (PDT)

Here's a third question.. Should the oil pressure gage read at the highest level?  When sitting at a light it drops slightly but the minute I start moving it goes all the way up and stays there.
ED
6944


----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: 6/9/2006 3:37:22 PM 
Subject: Re: [DML] Two quick questions..


Overfilled oil is a Bad Thing. If the level in the sump is too high, 
the crankshaft can start to beat the oil like a kitchen mixer. This
mixes a lot of air into the oil, which increases the oil volume causing
more mixing. This also changes the flow characteristics of the oil,
which makes it very hard for the oil pump to draw oil out of the
sump. Oil pressure drops, which puts your bearings at risk.

--
Mike

-------------- Original message from Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>: -------------- 

> 1 - The small ground strap that runs from the front-left fender to the 
> hood has broken. I'll fix it before DCS, but does that ground strap 
> serve any known, useful purpose? Could this be why my windshield 
> washer motor no longer functions? 
> 
> 2 - I recently had my oil changed, and it appears that it was 
> over-filled. The dipstick reads about 3/4" ABOVE the full mark (yes, 
> before starting the motor after sitting overnight). I've already 
> driven about 250 miles in this condition, with no adverse effect as 
> far as I can tell. Should I drain it down to the "full" mark? What 
> is the worst effect of running with the overfill? 
> 
> thanks, 
> -Hank #1619 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________

3b. Re: Two quick questions..
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:42 am (PDT)

That is "normal" for the OEM oil pressure sender unit. It is not
right, but it IS normal. If you want to get a sender unit that makes
the gauge work like it should check out one of the Delorean clubs that
sells a replacement. It is a very simple job to replace it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "rdcejc_at_dml_..." <rdcejc_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Here's a third question.. Should the oil pressure gage read at the
highest level?  When sitting at a light it drops slightly but the
minute I start moving it goes all the way up and stays there.
> ED
> 6944
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: 
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Sent: 6/9/2006 3:37:22 PM 
> Subject: Re: [DML] Two quick questions..
> 
> 
> Overfilled oil is a Bad Thing. If the level in the sump is too high, 
> the crankshaft can start to beat the oil like a kitchen mixer. This
> mixes a lot of air into the oil, which increases the oil volume causing
> more mixing. This also changes the flow characteristics of the oil,
> which makes it very hard for the oil pump to draw oil out of the
> sump. Oil pressure drops, which puts your bearings at risk.
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> -------------- Original message from Hank <heskin_at_dml_...>: -------------- 
> 
> > 1 - The small ground strap that runs from the front-left fender to
the 
> > hood has broken. I'll fix it before DCS, but does that ground strap 
> > serve any known, useful purpose? Could this be why my windshield 
> > washer motor no longer functions? 
> > 
> > 2 - I recently had my oil changed, and it appears that it was 
> > over-filled. The dipstick reads about 3/4" ABOVE the full mark (yes, 
> > before starting the motor after sitting overnight). I've already 
> > driven about 250 miles in this condition, with no adverse effect as 
> > far as I can tell. Should I drain it down to the "full" mark? What 
> > is the worst effect of running with the overfill? 
> > 
> > thanks, 
> > -Hank #1619 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
>  
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>








Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

4a. Delorean Product Oversight Committee
    Posted by: "Tom Watkins" outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com outatime81
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:25 am (PDT)

I would like opinions on the creation of a "Delorean Product Oversight Commitee" that would be a watchdog "Consumer Reports" type group keeping an eye out for new product inventions/modifications/upgrades/re-designs etc.... for our cars that are being reported by numerous owners for problems. 
   
  If a product is getting numerous complaints, the committee would contact the seller asking for an action plan on resolving the issue and reporting back to the community as a whole.   This group could also "request" a seller recall a product if it meets a certain criteria of complaints to be determned by the committee.    If a seller is unwilling to work with the committee on a addressing reports/issues with it's product that would be transmitted to the community as well.   While the committee would not have any legal authority to force a seller to do anything, it would speak volumes about a seller if they dismiss the committees inquiries.  The committee can report it's findings and post communications with the seller for all to see.   
   
  The mission statement for this committee would be very specific......If a seller sells a product that begins to generate numerous posts on our forums and it appears they are not taking pro-active steps to address the issues, this seller would be contacted by the committee so it can report findings to all of us.   Again, it would have to be the same issue on the same product for it to generate an inquiry from the committee.   
   
  I don't want to suggest that I feel our current vendors do not handle customer issues properly or fully test products.  On the contrary, I feel our full service vendors do a great job with many of our web-based people being top notch as well.   
   
  I see the committee being elected.  It should consist of people in our community with technical knowledge of our cars major systems.  To be an unbiased group I would assume it should consist of people not associated with any particular seller or vendor.
   
  What do you all think?   Dumb?  Not needed?  Good idea?......I think it's important to take the emotion out of the picture when dealing with a product that is starting to generate negative feedback.  A committee of this type may be just the thing to create an atmosphere of positive and constructive dialogue that will benefit everyone.
   
  Tom Watkins

 __________________________________________________
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

4b. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
    Posted by: "Matt Spittle" matthew.spittle_at_dml_gmail.com supermattthehero
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:44 am (PDT)

Tom,

It's been my experience, with any of the DeLorean vendors that are
seriously engaged in doing business (i.e., PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor
Center, DeLorean One, DMC (Texas/Florida), DPNW, SpecialTAuto) that
any time I purchased something that didn't work properly, they were
very fast and efficient in replacing/repairing it.  

For this reason, I don't think this type of committee is needed,
simply because these vendors are already under pressure for choosing
to conduct their business in such a niche market.  One person's bad
mouth can spoil 50% of their potential customers very quickly; moreso
 if they read the DML and other forums.

For some of the other "once in awhile" vendors that occasionally crop
up selling things - I don't think they would be responsive to a
"seller recall request."  They simply don't have nearly as much to
lose as the other vendors, and could easily stop doing business the
next day if faced with confrontation.  

Matt
#1604


  









Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

4c. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
    Posted by: "delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net" delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net 
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:18 am (PDT)

Matt:

I would agree.  Although the "major suppliers" (i.e., PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center, DeLorean One, DMC (Texas/Florida), DPNW, SpecialTAuto) are in business to make money, they also make their living on the DeLorean community.  Plus, they are also "true" DeLorean enthusiast.  Therefore, they have both a business and personal incentive to make products that are reliable and safe.  In addition, we already have the most powerful "consumer protection tool," the internet and various DeLorean forums.  This should be used to not only warn other DMC owners of "fake" "bad" products and services, but also inform us of products that are reliable and wok extremely well (which is rarely done).

Just my 2 cents.

JAS
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Matt Spittle" <matthew.spittle_at_dml_gmail.com> 

> Tom, 
> 
> It's been my experience, with any of the DeLorean vendors that are 
> seriously engaged in doing business (i.e., PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor 
> Center, DeLorean One, DMC (Texas/Florida), DPNW, SpecialTAuto) that 
> any time I purchased something that didn't work properly, they were 
> very fast and efficient in replacing/repairing it. 
> 
> For this reason, I don't think this type of committee is needed, 
> simply because these vendors are already under pressure for choosing 
> to conduct their business in such a niche market. One person's bad 
> mouth can spoil 50% of their potential customers very quickly; moreso 
> if they read the DML and other forums. 
> 
> For some of the other "once in awhile" vendors that occasionally crop 
> up selling things - I don't think they would be responsive to a 
> "seller recall request." They simply don't have nearly as much to 
> lose as the other vendors, and could easily stop doing business the 
> next day if faced with confrontation. 
> 
> Matt 
> #1604 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: 
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com 
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

4d. Re: Delorean Product Oversight Committee
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:20 am (PDT)

As good as that idea may sound it isn't necessary. The free market
provides enough self-checks that prevent any bad products from staying
around. That and the DML provides all of the protection Delorean
owners may need. No vendor wants bad publicity and the Delorean
vendors do their best to try to please their customers. No one can
ever get it 100% so I am sure there are those that are not happy with
a particular vendor or a particular product. Those instances are
relatively infrequent and not of any great concern. Every owner has
their favorite vendor and the vendors can't stay in business if the
products they sold were not of good quality. It would be difficult to
create a central authority with the power to do what you envision. The
Delorean community is small enough that any bad feedback will get back
to a vendor fast if a part they offer is not good. Just stay on the
DML and you will get the information as quickly as anyone.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I would like opinions on the creation of a "Delorean Product
Oversight Commitee" that would be a watchdog "Consumer Reports" type
group keeping an eye out for new product i







Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

5. Arriving at Midway Airport 6/15 by 1p.m. need ride to Pheasant Run
    Posted by: "Christopher Mack" christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com christopher_mack
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:34 am (PDT)

Hello,
  
  I am arriving on June 15 at Midway International Airport in Chicago and  I was wondering if anyone would be willing to give me a ride to  Pheasant Run.  The ideal situation would be if someone was flying  into Midway and renting a car and had extra room for me (don't worry, I  will pay for the ride).  If not, is anyone else flying into Midway  about the same time so that we could split a cab/limo fare?  the  other member of my party is flying into midway and renting car but he  doesn't get in until very late thursday night so that won't work.
  
  Thanks in advance
  -Chris
  DMC6453
  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

6. DMCVINS.COM
    Posted by: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net bmdmc
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:34 am (PDT)

All,

I am leaveing for the show tomorrow, I will try and get your photos
posted ASAP.  So please be patient until at least Monday before I can
get to posting your pictures.  This is turning into a really nice
project, intersting pictures, everyone gets to see where the "alive"
cars are.  Find your sister cars, etc.  But I have lots of pics
without the owner in the picture, come on don't be shy, I posted a pic
of one of my cars with me in it.

This site is not going to be on Google or any other search engine, I
hope.  And I don't post email addresses.


Bernie







Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7a. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED  WARNING
    Posted by: "Lawrence Lormand" lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net vin00538
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:36 am (PDT)

I am  Mechanic, All I did was put the closed end wrench on nut & 
bolt fell out of control arm!!!!! no torque or even a socket wrench 
was put on other end yet, 
Lawrence

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I agree. I don't think this would have happened if there had been 
> some PB-Blaster or other penetrant on the threads first. Hard to 
tell 
> from the picture but I don't see any sign of rust where it broke. 
> Were you using an air-powered impact wrench by any chance? 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_> 
> wrote:
> >
> > This looks like you snapped it trying to remove it. In all 
> likelyhood
> > it would not have broken while driving. This is not a common 
failure
> > point. The most likely cause in this case was the corrosion on 
the
> > threads and while trying to loosen it, you broke it before the 
nut
> > would turn. I agree that it is a dangerous part to have fail but 
> under
> > normal conditions it is not something to worry about. ---" about 
> your bolt.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_> 
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Okay Owners,
> > > I thought I'd share this little Mishap as you might want to 
start 
> > > checking all your bolts even the treiling arm bolts before you 
go 
> to 
> > > Pheasent run no one want's anyone to get hurt or thier cars. 
see 
> pic 
> > > under control arm bolt in photo's. I was removing the rack, 
lower 
> > > control arms,tyrods, springs shocks & spindles to clean up & 
> replace
>









Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

7b. Re: Front Control Arm Bolt SNAPPED  WARNING
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:17 am (PDT)

If that is the case and it was already broken that IS important. I do
not believe it is a Fleet-wide problem. There have been no other
reports of this kind of incident so it must be specific conditions
related to a particular car. Even though it was broken the car was
still driveable, the parts still stayed in place. From the way it
broke and it's position I do not believe it broke from the normal
stress imposed by design. Maybe it was overtorqed, maybe it was
replaced with an inferior bolt. Further investigation would be
required to determine what did happen and if this could  be a
potential problem to the fleet. In the meantime it can't hurt for
other owners to check the bolts and see if it is more than a fluke on
one car. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I am  Mechanic, All I did was put the closed end wrench on nut & 
> bolt fell out of control arm!!!!! no torque or even a socket wrench 
> was put on other end yet, 
> Lawrence
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I agree. I don't think this would have happened if there had been 
> > some PB-Blaster or other penetrant on the threads first. Hard to 
> tell 
> > from the picture but I don't see any sign of rust where it broke. 
> > Were you using an air-powered impact wrench by any chance? 
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_> 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > This looks like you snapped it trying to remove it. In all 
> > likelyhood
> > > it would not have broken while driving. This is not a common 
> failure
> > > point. The most likely cause in this case was the corrosion on 
> the
> > > threads and while trying to loosen it, you broke it before the 
> nut
> > > would turn. I agree that it is a dangerous part to have fail but 
> > under
> > > normal conditions it is not something to worry about. ---" about 
> > your bolt.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_> 
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay Owners,
> > > > I thought I'd share this little Mishap as you might want to 
> start 
> > > > checking all your bolts even the treiling arm bolts before you 
> go 
> > to 
> > > > Pheasent run no one want's anyone to get hurt or thier cars. 
> see 
> > pic 
> > > > under control arm bolt in photo's. I was removing the rack, 
> lower 
> > > > control arms,tyrods, springs shocks & spindles to clean up & 
> > replace
> >
>









Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8. windshield trim - help!
    Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:41 am (PDT)

Hey Guys,
 
Just finishing up a couple of projects before Chicago - 
 
I refinished my windshield trim pieces and ordered new A-pillar  
weatherstripping and PAD #108584, one each for the side trim pieces, as the  parts manual 
suggests.  But in the drawing, the pads look like they are as  long as the 
entire trim piece - the actual pad is only half as long.   Should I re-use my two 
old ones so I have two on each side?  I know for  sure the top one on the D/S 
blew out of the trim while driving a couple of years  ago, so I am pretty 
sure they should run the length of the windshield.  The  parts manual must be 
wrong?
 
Andy
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9a. Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
    Posted by: "seanhagan" seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com seanhagan
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:41 am (PDT)

I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good 
answers. 
So here is my issue...

I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the vendors.
I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel 
components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because the 
old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I have 
absolutely no idea why. 

The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the status 
of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up or 
down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated 
cranking...

I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could hear 
air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire. 

Here is what I have put in new
New fuel line from the pump to the hard line.
New Accumulator
New Fuel Distributor
New Fuel filter
New Lines the 13 pack... so all the lines coming off the filter into 
the engine bay of the car are new and of the stainless braided 
variety.
New Banjo bolts - all of them new (but one, I broke it, cleaned out 
an old one of the same and used it)
I Scrubbed out the tank with acetone and let dry.
New Warm-up regulator
New battery
No baffle, for extraneous reasons - me breaking it - I have the 
Special T Auto setup. When i previously had it in the tank, it 
worked like a charm. That is what I get for having it hold the line 
to the bottom of the tank for the syphon.
4 gallons of new gas (bought it today)
New fuel pump.
New Fuel tank filter screen.
New injectors (6 of them)
New rubber thingys that attach to the injectors.

Followed the diagram which is present in one of the news sites. 

All is connected very tight... The one I broke, i tightened too 
much, and it just twisted itself off at the hole, the hole did not 
seem to be crushed. Checked others and the holes in the banjo bolts 
are not squished.

How much gas do all of the components have/hold?

It cranks and cranks but does not turn over... Thoughts?

Could it be too much air in the system, and if so, would it not be 
sent back via the return line to the tank? or do i have to wait for 
the air to make it out of the injectors. 

Sean
-3372
AZ-D









Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

9b. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
    Posted by: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com qumefox76
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:41 am (PDT)

seanhagan wrote:
> I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good
> answers.
> So here is my issue...
>
> I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the vendors.
> I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel
> components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because the
> old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I have
> absolutely no idea why.
>
> The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the status
> of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up or
> down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated
> cranking...
>
> I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could hear
> air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire.
>
> <SNIP>
>
> Sean
> -3372
> AZ-D
>
Hi Sean.

 While i'm no expert on  the K-jet( I'm doing the premier 3.0 swap in my
own D so i'm using it's EFI instead) it sounds to me like you really
need to invest in a set of pressure gages for CIS injection systems.
This is probably one of the first things any of the others will tell you
to do too. If your getting air out of the output of the fuel
distributor, it sounds to me like you either have a major leak
somewhere, or something is plumbed wrong somewhere (not sure if this is
even possible.. maybe at the accumulator? Getting the fuel pump output
and returns swapped?) One thing I'd do is unhook the fuel input to the
fuel distributor and put it in a bucket and jumper the pump to run. If
you don't get lots of gas and no air bubbles, then something is
seriously wrong upstream in the system.. You also might want to add a
bit more gas to the tank. I doubt the fuel system would hold anywhere
near four gallons, but adding another couple of gallons is good
insurance to make sure you haven't drained the tank beyond the pickups
ability to suck it up. If you go get good gas flow at the input to the
fuel distributor, then the distributor itself is probably your problem,
or one of them. If you don't, move up the system and check elsewhere.
I'd check at the fuel pump itself next. Mainly because I know the
accumulator is a major pain to get to. If you have good output from the
pump, and not at the fuel distributor, then the accumulator is the
likely culprit, if you don't get good output from the pump itself, then
the problem is in the tank somewhere.

As far as which way the inertia switch needs to be, your ear should be
able to tell you this. One way the pump should run, the other it won't.
If it doesn't run in either position then you have an electrical
problem, bad inertial switch, or a bad pump.

--
Chris
VIN# 3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean







Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

9c. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
    Posted by: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com pjgrady2000
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:15 pm (PDT)

Sean,

 

Many of the parts you mentioned came from us so a warm thank you is in order
for your support. Although we’re busy prepping for the show feel free to
contact us for tech support when needed.  First the plunger must be down to
ground, and operate, the fuel pump. Next confirm the fuel pump is operating
when cranking the engine before you proceed. Next you should unclip one
injector from the head and perch it over a metal or plastic container. Have
some one crank the motor and look for a light stream of fuel at the nozzle
tip. If none appears turn the CO adj. screw clockwise until a small stream
appears. The car will not start if this adjustment is out by more than a
turn or two and a new distributor almost always needs adjusting to make the
engine start. Call if you need more info.

 

Rob Grady,

 

P.J.Grady Inc.

 

   _____  

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
seanhagan
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:26 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything

 

I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good 
answers. 
So here is my issue...

I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the vendors.
I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel 
components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because the 
old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I have 
absolutely no idea why. 

The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the status 
of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up or 
down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated 
cranking...

I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could hear 
air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire. 

Here is what I have put in new
New fuel line from the pump to the hard line.
New Accumulator
New Fuel Distributor
New Fuel filter
New Lines the 13 pack... so all the lines coming off the filter into 
the engine bay of the car are new and of the stainless braided 
variety.
New Banjo bolts - all of them new (but one, I broke it, cleaned out 
an old one of the same and used it)
I Scrubbed out the tank with acetone and let dry.
New Warm-up regulator
New battery
No baffle, for extraneous reasons - me breaking it - I have the 
Special T Auto setup. When i previously had it in the tank, it 
worked like a charm. That is what I get for having it hold the line 
to the bottom of the tank for the syphon.
4 gallons of new gas (bought it today)
New fuel pump.
New Fuel tank filter screen.
New injectors (6 of them)
New rubber thingys that attach to the injectors.

Followed the diagram which is present in one of the news sites. 

All is connected very tight... The one I broke, i tightened too 
much, and it just twisted itself off at the hole, the hole did not 
seem to be crushed. Checked others and the holes in the banjo bolts 
are not squished.

How much gas do all of the components have/hold?

It cranks and cranks but does not turn over... Thoughts?

Could it be too much air in the system, and if so, would it not be 
sent back via the return line to the tank? or do i have to wait for 
the air to make it out of the injectors. 

Sean
-3372
AZ-D

 


--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 6/7/2006



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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 6/7/2006
 


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Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10. Re: Green O-rings for AC Work
    Posted by: "Nathan Sobieralski" valleyrat12_at_dml_yahoo.com valleyrat12
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:41 am (PDT)

I bought mine at pep boys. Just bring in the old ones and they will 
match them for you.

Nathan
2277


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> John, perhaps if you're online, you can respond. I bought a new 
> accumulator, VOV orifice tube, and high/low pressure switches from 
> you.  I haven't opened the package yet, but wanted to ask if the 
> proper green O-rings for R134A are provided?  If not, can these be 
> bought at a local hardware or auto parts store, or do I also need to 
> order before replacing these parts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
>









Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

11a. Voice Unit in Delorean from Delorean World Vol 10 #2
    Posted by: "birdwell77095" birdwells_at_dml_usa.net birdwell77095
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 8:41 am (PDT)

On page 32 of Delorean World Volume 10 #2 Mark Hershey talks about 
getting the voice unit out of a '82 Datsun 200 SX and installing it in 
his Delorean. His Delorean would then tell him when the fuel was low, 
when a door was open, when the lights were on, etc. Has anyone had 
experience doing this to their car and is it difficult to do? Is Mark 
still around?

Shannon Birdwell
VIN 16113







Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________

11b. Re: Voice Unit in Delorean from Delorean World Vol 10 #2
    Posted by: "PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com p12c16
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:36 am (PDT)

I noticed the same thing while looking through a very old issue of "De Gull 
Wing" a few days ago (part of Cliff's collection).   The system was called 
"Voice Alert" in this case, and was being marketed as an aftermarket kit for 
DeLoreans.   I wonder if anyone on the list has one installed from back in the 
80's?   I'd like to take a look at one at the DCS.   It verbally told if the 
washer fluid was low, oil level was low, door ajar, etc.

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

12. Re: Pre-DCS 2006 screening of BTTF at local Drive In is a "No Go"
    Posted by: "d_rex_2002" rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net d_rex_2002
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:28 am (PDT)

The CharlesTowne 18 Cinema, walking distance from PR,
will be screening "Cars" in multiple theatres starting
with afternoon shows and continuing through the night.
The theatre can also arrange an earlier morning show.

You can also see "Cars" from your cars at the drive in,
with the early shows starting at 8:30pm and the later
show starting around 10:30pm (I can verify the times).
These times are harder to fit in the DCS schedule.

No final news on the possible BTTF screening on June 15
at 9am at Randall Theatre yet, but its not looking good.
I should have a final word by Monday, but given the time
to get the film, it looks like the answer will be NO.

Later,
Rich W


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Anyone interested in getting a group together to see Cars?
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Forum,
> > 
> > Looks like a "No Go" for the BTTF screening, due to contact 
issues.
> > 
> > Disney will not allow for a Universal movie to be played after it
> > on the same night and Disney "Cars" will be playing all that week.
> >
>








Messages in this topic (17)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

13. A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasant Ru
    Posted by: "joekuchan" josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com joekuchan
    Date: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:33 am (PDT)

Many of you are familiar with the work my son and I did on VIN 6195,
some of which can even be termed "pioneering". The car was featured in
several articles in Gullwing magazine over the past few years and was
the first place winner in its category at Pigeon Forge. The mods
included HID projector headlamps, Brembo cross-drilled and slotted
front brakes, custom wheels and tires, unique custom fuel system mods
for enrichment under boost (the car had a BAE turbo), an electric
scavenge pump for the turbo, custom stereo installation, fully painted
and detailed engine with custom metallized airbox, and on and on...

We were always in search of improvements that would update the car and
make it more fun to drive. That's why we're now so pleased to bring
what we think are two very exciting new products, originally developed
for 6195, to the entire DeLorean community. 

"ENJOY THE RIDE" 

The first product is a shock tower brace called "Enjoy the Ride".
Peter developed this product to improve the cornering and general
handling of the car. This is the only shock tower bar available for
DeLoreans, and to our knowledge is the only significant suspension
improvement other than the lowering kits that are available from
various sources. 

It works by tying the tops of the two front shock towers together,
stiffening the front end of the car. The effect is to limit the camber
change that occurs during hard cornering. That, in turn, reduces
under-steer, thereby giving the car a more controlled, precise, and
fun driveability in the turns. It's made from high strength,
lightweight aircraft quality aluminum alloy (6061-T6) and comes
polished for a great appearance. All necessary hardware is included,
along with clear instructions that make installation quick and easy.
Sooner or later, almost every performance car owner equips their
vehicle with some sort of strut tower brace. DeLorean owners are no
longer left out. Finally, we too can enjoy the benefits of a shock
tower brace!

"JOE COOL"

The second product is called "Joe Cool". I developed this to address
the well-known and very annoying problem that happens when the two
engine cooling fans turn on at exactly the same time that the AC
compressor engages: the engine slows, the lights dim, and the
experience of driving a performance car is ruined. Joe Cool puts each
fan on a separate high capacity relay and staggers their start so that
the compressor engages followed shortly by first one fan turning on,
and then a moment later by the other fan turning on. This eliminates
the drag on the engine caused by too great a load being thrown on it
all at once.

Joe Cool also handles the fan fail light in an intelligent manner. It
has separate internal fuses for each fan circuit. If a defect in the
fans or their wiring results in either or both of the internal fuses
blowing, the fan fail light will be turned on. You will not have to
tape or paint over the word "fail" on your console anymore. Nor will
you have that light flashing in a meaningless and annoying fashion in
your peripheral vision as you drive. With Joe Cool, the "Fan Fail"
light actually means the fans have failed. (Imagine that!) 

Joe Cool is completely "plug and play". Just plug it in and go.

Reviews of both of these products can be seen in the latest issue of
Gullwing magazine, so if you're interested check it out. Both products
will come with a one-year warranty against defects in materials and
workmanship.

If you're interested in these products, we'll have a limited number of
each available for sale at Pheasant Run. The show is probably your
best opportunity to buy them because they will be "show priced" at
$150 for the shock tower bar, and $195 for the Joe Cool. (They may be
priced higher later on.) By buying at the show you'll also avoid
shipping and handling. 

Unfortunately, we're just not set up to accept checks or credit card
payments, so we'll only be able to accept cash payments at the show.
Please stop by to see these products or just to chat about DeLoreans.

See you next week at the show!

-Joe and Peter Kuchan









Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

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