From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 8:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3285

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1a. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
From: seanhagan

1b. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
From: seanhagan


2a. Re: air conditioning.
From: cbl1739

2b. Re: air conditioning.
From: Marv Hein

2c. Re: air conditioning.
From: Jim Reeve

2d. Re: air conditioning.
From: kjc


3. AW: [DML] Guru Needed.
From: Elvis Nocita


4. Re: squeeking noise
From: cbl1739


5. Re: New free 'cell phone' parking lots at Chicago airports
From: Cliff Schmucker


6. DCS Caravan changes
From: Kevin Abato


7. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
From: jakekamp



Messages

1a. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
Posted by: "seanhagan" seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com seanhagan
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:18 pm (PDT)

Just wanted to double check, the 3mm allen slot is (as you are looking at the distributor from the back of the car) the lower right hand side correct?

How much do I want to turn it?

Which way does what?

Sean
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Sean,
>
>
>
> Definitely….you need to have the emissions set up using a gas
analyzer
> and/or an analog dwell meter. The procedure is in the Workshop
Manual
> (Section D:04:01). Since it's running you can try adjusting the
3mm Allen
> screw by "ear" to stabilize the idle until you can get it properly
set up.
>
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
>
>
> Rob Grady
>
> _____
>
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> seanhagan
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 10:26 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
>
>
>
> Rob
> The plunger up versus down (man do i feel dumb there!) fixed the
no-
> start issue. Now that I think of it, i mucked with the fuel cut-
off
> switch when I went out of state recently...
>
> The car started up great!
>
> Love the look of the stainless lines running under there, and the car
> when moving sounds like a new car...
>
> Question on the idle though... i seem to be watching the rpm
needle
> bounce between 500 and 1500.. If I feather the gas, i can get her
to
> rest at 1000... Someone in AZ-D mentioned today that he thought
that
> this is caused by the Lambda unit?
>
> Could it be that CO screw is out of adjustment?
>
> Sean
>
> -Rob - it was definitely a pleasure doing business with you.
>
> --- In HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews_at_dml_...,
> <rob_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Sean,
> >
> >
> >
> > Many of the parts you mentioned came from us so a warm thank you
> is in order
> > for your support. Although we're busy prepping for the show feel
> free to
> > contact us for tech support when needed. First the plunger must
> be down to
> > ground, and operate, the fuel pump. Next confirm the fuel pump
is
> operating
> > when cranking the engine before you proceed. Next you should
> unclip one
> > injector from the head and perch it over a metal or plastic
> container. Have
> > some one crank the motor and look for a light stream of fuel at
> the nozzle
> > tip. If none appears turn the CO adj. screw clockwise until a
> small stream
> > appears. The car will not start if this adjustment is out by
more
> than a
> > turn or two and a new distributor almost always needs adjusting
to
> make the
> > engine start. Call if you need more info.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rob Grady,
> >
> >
> >
> > P.J.Grady Inc.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews_at_dml_...
> [mailto:HYPERLINK
> "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews_at_dml_...] On Behalf Of
> > seanhagan
> > Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:26 AM
> > To: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews_at_dml_...
> > Subject: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
> >
> >
> >
> > I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good
> > answers.
> > So here is my issue...
> >
> > I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the
> vendors.
> > I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel
> > components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because
the
> > old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I
> have
> > absolutely no idea why.
> >
> > The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the
status
> > of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up
or
> > down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated
> > cranking...
> >
> > I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could
> hear
> > air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire.
> >
> > Here is what I have put in new
> > New fuel line from the pump to the hard line.
> > New Accumulator
> > New Fuel Distributor
> > New Fuel filter
> > New Lines the 13 pack... so all the lines coming off the filter
> into
> > the engine bay of the car are new and of the stainless braided
> > variety.
> > New Banjo bolts - all of them new (but one, I broke it, cleaned
> out
> > an old one of the same and used it)
> > I Scrubbed out the tank with acetone and let dry.
> > New Warm-up regulator
> > New battery
> > No baffle, for extraneous reasons - me breaking it - I have the
> > Special T Auto setup. When i previously had it in the tank, it
> > worked like a charm. That is what I get for having it hold the
> line
> > to the bottom of the tank for the syphon.
> > 4 gallons of new gas (bought it today) New fuel pump.
> > New Fuel tank filter screen.
> > New injectors (6 of them)
> > New rubber thingys that attach to the injectors.
> >
> > Followed the diagram which is present in one of the news sites.
> >
> > All is connected very tight... The one I broke, i tightened too
> > much, and it just twisted itself off at the hole, the hole did
not
> > seem to be crushed. Checked others and the holes in the banjo
> bolts
> > are not squished.
> >
> > How much gas do all of the components have/hold?
> >
> > It cranks and cranks but does not turn over... Thoughts?
> >
> > Could it be too much air in the system, and if so, would it not
be
> > sent back via the return line to the tank? or do i have to wait
> for
> > the air to make it out of the injectors.
> >
> > Sean
> > -3372
> > AZ-D
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date:
> 6/7/2006
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date:
> 6/7/2006
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date:
6/7/2006
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date:
6/7/2006
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










Messages in this topic (7)

1b. Re: Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
Posted by: "seanhagan" seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com seanhagan
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:49 pm (PDT)

Thank you for the feedback, it was greatly appreciated. I did get her to start, the problem was the plunger on the fuel cutoff switch.
(Stupid me!) The accumulator is brand new.

I will be adjusting the CO screw later on this week, in an effort to fix the funky idle. From there, I'll take her in to a shop to get setup to pass emissions (required here in AZ).

Personally, I think my next investment will be the AC esp with the heat we have here in the summer, shortly followed by putting on my stainless coolant resovoir (a must in the heat)

Sean

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> seanhagan wrote:
> > I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good
> > answers.
> > So here is my issue...
> >
> > I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the
vendors.
> > I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel
> > components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because
the
> > old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I
have
> > absolutely no idea why.
> >
> > The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the
status
> > of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up or
> > down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated
> > cranking...
> >
> > I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could
hear
> > air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire.
> >
> > <SNIP>
> >
> > Sean
> > -3372
> > AZ-D
> >
> Hi Sean.
>
> While i'm no expert on the K-jet( I'm doing the premier 3.0 swap
in my
> own D so i'm using it's EFI instead) it sounds to me like you
really
> need to invest in a set of pressure gages for CIS injection
systems.
> This is probably one of the first things any of the others will
tell you
> to do too. If your getting air out of the output of the fuel
> distributor, it sounds to me like you either have a major leak
> somewhere, or something is plumbed wrong somewhere (not sure if
this is
> even possible.. maybe at the accumulator? Getting the fuel pump
output
> and returns swapped?) One thing I'd do is unhook the fuel input to
the
> fuel distributor and put it in a bucket and jumper the pump to
run. If
> you don't get lots of gas and no air bubbles, then something is
> seriously wrong upstream in the system.. You also might want to
add a
> bit more gas to the tank. I doubt the fuel system would hold
anywhere
> near four gallons, but adding another couple of gallons is good
> insurance to make sure you haven't drained the tank beyond the
pickups
> ability to suck it up. If you go get good gas flow at the input to
the
> fuel distributor, then the distributor itself is probably your
problem,
> or one of them. If you don't, move up the system and check
elsewhere.
> I'd check at the fuel pump itself next. Mainly because I know the
> accumulator is a major pain to get to. If you have good output
from the
> pump, and not at the fuel distributor, then the accumulator is the
> likely culprit, if you don't get good output from the pump itself,
then
> the problem is in the tank somewhere.
>
> As far as which way the inertia switch needs to be, your ear
should be
> able to tell you this. One way the pump should run, the other it
won't.
> If it doesn't run in either position then you have an electrical
> problem, bad inertial switch, or a bad pump.
>
> --
> Chris
> VIN# 3209
> http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
>









Messages in this topic (7)

2a. Re: air conditioning.
Posted by: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net cbl1739
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:24 pm (PDT)

Spoiled Brat....Just Kidding...About the only way,you will get "better" and faster ice cold AC,is if you remove the passenger window and stick a 15,000 BTU window AC,and hook up a trailer to the back of your Delorean,and tag along a Huge Genera...never mind!!!
Acutally Check the flaps under the dash for proper operation,and check the lines to make sure the vacuum opens them up fully/see if the mode switch is operating correct.The whole AC system on the Delorean is Basically Delorean specific,in other words,don't try to pull the ac system from a newer car,it won't fit,Deloreans heating and ac system is enclosed in it's own nifty fiberglass box under the dash.

cbl
no
dmc



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is it.
> I'm spending a weekend with my Deloreans having fun and even driving
> them. I've had my air conditioner swapped to R-134..
> I even have a charging kit. It seems to be working ok in that it
> cools and the guages say it's fully charged. Here's my problem. I
> don't like this damn thing.. I'm too used to newer air conditioners
> with fans that blow hard, cold, and let me cool down fast.
> I think we need a whole new fan/air conditioner unit.
> Anybody know of one or a method to get this thing to cool down fast
in
> a hot climate.
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 941
>









Messages in this topic (7)

2b. Re: air conditioning.
Posted by: "Marv Hein" marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com marvhein
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:46 pm (PDT)

Assuming there's really nothing wrong with your system, you might want to make sure both of your radiator fans are working properly. Up until a couple of weeks ago, I would have said exactly what you're saying. My air worked, but it was marginal. It turns out I had been running on one stock fan since taking delivery of the car from the PO over a year ago!

New dual fans now and I'm really cool! The A/C seems consistent with that of my newer cars, even here in Vegas. (It's been 110 already.) If you have stock fans, you might want to replace them with newer high- flow fans. I suppose it would be possible to put in a stronger and quieter blower motor too... but my stock motor seems fine.

On other fronts, you might make sure no one has closed any vents with the little thumb wheel. I couldn't figure out why only one of my center vents moved air. :)

If you think you're losing too much cool air to leaky door vents or just prefer really strong flow out of your center vents, an easy way to experiment would be to stick a couple of rags in the door vent hoses to plug them up.

Marv
#10820
AZ-D

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is it.
> I'm spending a weekend with my Deloreans having fun and even driving
> them. I've had my air conditioner swapped to R-134..
> I even have a charging kit. It seems to be working ok in that it
> cools and the guages say it's fully charged. Here's my problem. I
> don't like this damn thing.. I'm too used to newer air conditioners
> with fans that blow hard, cold, and let me cool down fast.
> I think we need a whole new fan/air conditioner unit.
> Anybody know of one or a method to get this thing to cool down fast
in
> a hot climate.
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 941
>










Messages in this topic (7)

2c. Re: air conditioning.
Posted by: "Jim Reeve" dmc6960_at_dml_gmail.com dmc6960
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:51 pm (PDT)

If you want more airflow, sealing up the vents in the doors like previously mentioned is a good place to start. Another relatively simple process would be removing the blower motor, and if you have small skinny arms, reaching into the evaporator housing, and pulling out crud that has built up in there over 25 years. I did that to my car in 2001 and it make a big improvement in airflow.

If this still doesn't cut it for you, there are three more options. A new condensor not clogged with bugs and roadgrime which will provide more efficient cooling. Removing your evaporator (not fun) and cleaning out each fin with a pick (I just did that a few weeks ago) with increase airflow a little bit further. Also, a VAV orifice tube might assist as well. I'll be able to comment on that tomorrow since my A/C system is being charged tonight after my huge system replacement this spring.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Ok, this is it.
> I'm spending a weekend with my Deloreans having fun and even driving
> them. I've had my air conditioner swapped to R-134..
> I even have a charging kit. It seems to be working ok in that it
> cools and the guages say it's fully charged. Here's my problem. I
> don't like this damn thing.. I'm too used to newer air conditioners
> with fans that blow hard, cold, and let me cool down fast.
> I think we need a whole new fan/air conditioner unit.
> Anybody know of one or a method to get this thing to cool down fast in
> a hot climate.
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 941
>










Messages in this topic (7)

2d. Re: air conditioning.
Posted by: "kjc" ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com kcreason77
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:56 pm (PDT)

Dale-
I've been using R134 for over four years in Houston and it is mostly fine.
Sometimes it is not quite enough until the car is moving.
Are you sure your fan is turning the right direction and moving the right speed? Maybe the coils in the fan box are clogged and not able to touch and cool the air properly.

On the subject of the door vents-- I hate them. They don't seal well and I don't think they can be pointed right to hit me in the face. I have to give the engineers a C on these guys. I have better luck with the front vents.


On 6/11/06, Chris Murley <qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
>
> funkstuf wrote:
> > Ok, this is it.
> > I'm spending a weekend with my Deloreans having fun and even driving
> > them. I've had my air conditioner swapped to R-134..
> > I even have a charging kit. It seems to be working ok in that it
> > cools and the guages say it's fully charged. Here's my problem. I
> > don't like this damn thing.. I'm too used to newer air conditioners
> > with fans that blow hard, cold, and let me cool down fast.
> > I think we need a whole new fan/air conditioner unit.
> > Anybody know of one or a method to get this thing to cool down fast
> > in a hot climate.
> > Thanks
> > Dale Funk
> > 4984
> > 941
> >
> >
> Unless you want to redesign the entire AC system, which would likely
> be an expensive and very difficult proposition, about all you can do,
> providing your fan and vent doors, etc, are actually working
> correctly, is switch back to R12. R12 will have a good 10degree colder
> vent temp compared to r134 in the same system. Well, in a system
> designed for R12 to begin with anyway.
>
> --
> Chris
> VIN# 3209
> http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean
>
>
>



--
-Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (7)

3. AW: [DML] Guru Needed.
Posted by: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de dmcelvis
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:38 pm (PDT)

Hi Dale,

the diode - kathode is facing to the switch !

is the idle motor buzzing ?

are the brass screws closed /closing the air inlet ? if not - no wonder it
idles so high !!!!!

a non working switch or diode increases idle to something above 1000rpm,
a cold or missing temp sensor also rises idle, even with the idle switch
not being pushed.
if the idle motor is not buzzing/humming (a vibration with 100Hz) check fuse
1
(unlikely that it is blown) and see if there is any voltage at the Pins 1
and 2
of the ECU (I think there are numbers on it otherwise it's Black and Green).

keep us updated

Elvis

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von
funkstuf
Gesendet: Montag, 12. Juni 2006 02:46
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] Guru Needed.


I think I need a real guru for this one.. I am not one.
I have been working on trying to get my car to idle at 775 rpms for
a long time (when I have spare time which is rare). It idles at
about 1000-1100 rpm.
This is what I have done.
1.) checked for vacumn leaks.
2.) paid someone else to check for vacumn leaks.
3.) changed the thermo-sensor for the cold idle circuit.
4.) checked that idle micro-switch is not stuck and is adjusted
properly and workds.
5.) swapped out ECU with my other delorean which idles properly.
6.) swapped out idle speed regulator(the can thing) with my other
delorean.
7.) Unhooked ECU on low idle micro-switch side (for cold engine
control). (this made no difference)
8.) Unhooked ECU on idle control side. (this made it idle even
higher, (about 1500).
9.) Unhooked idle regulator, (the can)
OK, none of this helped me as far as I can tell but then I decided
to look at the Diode.
It all looks like the original circuit but the diode appears to be
facing the wrong direction.. (though it coincides with the
connectors which won't allow it to fit the opposite direction)
The diode is facing to allow current to go towards the ECU but all
the circuits say it should allow current to go to the micro-switch.

I'm not to smart but I am an electrical engineer and I can read the
schematics though I've not worked a lot on these Deloreans to know
how they really should operate.. It looks to me like my Diode is
hooked up backwards.. But... it looks like factory wiring.. Ok, my
troubleshooting mind is thinking while I write this letter. I'm
going to look at the Diode on my other Delorean (the turbo) I'm
back... The other (941) Delorean has a diode pointed the other
direction (the correct direction) They both appear to be factory
wired and exactly in the same place. I'm now thinking that #4984
was wired wrong at the factory. Has anybody encountered such a
problem? Perhaps we should include this solution with all the
people who complain that their Delorean idles a little high but they
can't find anything wrong. (like.. make sure the diode is pointed
the right direction) Not sure really but I am sure that it's wired
backwards. Unfortunately I believe most of our Delorean community
are not Electrical Engineers or Electronics technicians and they are
not apt to understand the wiring diagrams other than perhaps to
locate the parts. Anyway.. Now I have wire it the other way.






Messages in this topic (3)

4. Re: squeeking noise
Posted by: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net cbl1739
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:39 pm (PDT)

Check your emergency brake(or as they call it now) your parking
brake it might be slightly engaged.
cbl
no
"D"
but
with
just
a
nice
"B"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Just got my car back on the road and doing some final shake-down
runs before
> DCS. After a good 45 min drive, as I was pulling into my garage
I could
> hear some weird noises coming from what I think was the rear end.
It was like
> two materials rubbing on each other with a slight squeek sound to
it. It only
> did it while the car was moving, it is not coming from the engine
so it is
> clearly brakes or suspension. It was similar to the sound you
hear when the
> fuel pump is starting to suck air (had half tank though). I know
it's not my
> TABS and I know it's not my T/A dust shields scraping the
axles... any other
> ideas? Wheel bearings?
>
>
> Andy
>
> Fargo, ND
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










Messages in this topic (2)

5. Re: New free 'cell phone' parking lots at Chicago airports
Posted by: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com cliff_schmucker
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:40 pm (PDT)

what is the driving time estimate from O-Hara about 4:30PM Friday? - I
have to pick someone up around them :-(

probably couldn't be a worse time...

tnx, Cliff


On Tue, 06 Jun 2006 23:04:30 -0000, you wrote:

>Flying into Chicago for DCS 2006?
>
>Some info for people flying in for the events next week,
>especially if they are being picked up at the airport by
>someone who is already in the Chicago area.
>
>Drivers picking up passengers at Chicago's airports can
>avoid some of the runaround by using new free cell phone
>parking lots that have been opened on June 1, 2006.
>
>The lots, located within a five-minute drive of terminals
>at O'Hare International and Midway Airports, are now open
>and provide places for motorists to wait for arriving
>passengers without having to pay to park, waste precious
>gas or risk ticketing and towing.
>
>After receiving a phone call, drivers can proceed to the
>terminal to pick up passengers waiting at curbside.
>
>The cell phone lot at O'Hare has 150 spaces designated
>in economy parking lot F, off Bessie Coleman Drive.
>Signs directing drivers to the cell lot are posted on
>Mannheim and Zemke Roads and on I-190, the access
>highway from the Kennedy Expressway.
>
>The 90-space cell phone lot at Midway is at 61st Street
>and Cicero Avenue, south of the main airport entrance.
>Signs are installed on Cicero and along the lower-level
>roadway outside the terminal.
>
>Drivers waiting in the cell phone lots must be inside
>their vehicles at all times, and parking is limited to
>one hour. Violators will be ticketed and towed.
>
>Hope everyone has a safe trip here next week.
>
>Later,
>Rich W.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





Messages in this topic (8)

6. DCS Caravan changes
Posted by: "Kevin Abato" delorean_at_dml_abato.net iguanajade
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:46 pm (PDT)

FYI: I (personally) am 90% leaving tomorrow night (Tuesday) from my house
around 5:30ish (exit 27 on Rt 80 in NJ)
I plan to drive approx 5 hours and stop overnight at a hotel in PA/Ohio.

Wed. morning I plan to meet up with Tiffany O. and Dave Strangand in PA area
and arriving in Chicago mid-day to attend the BTTF BBQ at the Bob B's house.

If anyone wants to tag along, please contact me directly
delorean(at)abato.net

Thanks!

Kevin Abato
Vin#16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)

7. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
Posted by: "jakekamp" jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net jakekamp
Date: Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:59 pm (PDT)

I would like to chime in here as I was one of the testers for both of
these products. My DeLorean is driven daily, in all kinds
conditions, so it makes a good test vehicle for any new product.

I've been running both of Joe's and Peter's products now for hundreds
(thousands?) of miles and I couldn't be happier. For anyone who
hasn't yet met Joe, he gives you the same kind of confidence in his
products that Toby does. These are guys who really know their stuff
and build quality, tested equipment.

Both items are ridiculously easy to install and you notice an
immediate difference. Most are probably familiar with the "floating"
feeling the DeLorean gives in the front end when you push it to the
limit. The shock tower makes a big difference in alleviating that.

The Fan Controller I really like because it staggers the cycling on
of the A/C compressor, and each fan, just like the Fanzilla used to.
It also restores the function of the fan fail light. During testing,
I removed an internal fuse to simulate a fan failure and it correctly
lit my fan fail light. This was the first time I'd seen it light up
since I've owned the car! I should also note that the unit is
compatible with LEDs, as well as regular bulbs (mine are all LEDs in
my console).

Cool stuff! Both have made my car much more of a pleasure to drive.

If anyone has any questions about the install or real-world use, look
me up at Pheasant Run and I'd be happy to chat about them.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joekuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Many of you are familiar with the work my son and I did on VIN 6195,
> some of which can even be termed "pioneering". The car was featured
in
> several articles in Gullwing magazine over the past few years and
was
> the first place winner in its category at Pigeon Forge. The mods
> included HID projector headlamps, Brembo cross-drilled and slotted
> front brakes, custom wheels and tires, unique custom fuel system
mods
> for enrichment under boost (the car had a BAE turbo), an electric
> scavenge pump for the turbo, custom stereo installation, fully
painted
> and detailed engine with custom metallized airbox, and on and on...
>
> We were always in search of improvements that would update the car
and
> make it more fun to drive. That's why we're now so pleased to bring
> what we think are two very exciting new products, originally
developed
> for 6195, to the entire DeLorean community.
>
> "ENJOY THE RIDE"
>
> The first product is a shock tower brace called "Enjoy the Ride".
> Peter developed this product to improve the cornering and general
> handling of the car. This is the only shock tower bar available for
> DeLoreans, and to our knowledge is the only significant suspension
> improvement other than the lowering kits that are available from
> various sources.
>
> It works by tying the tops of the two front shock towers together,
> stiffening the front end of the car. The effect is to limit the
camber
> change that occurs during hard cornering. That, in turn, reduces
> under-steer, thereby giving the car a more controlled, precise, and
> fun driveability in the turns. It's made from high strength,
> lightweight aircraft quality aluminum alloy (6061-T6) and comes
> polished for a great appearance. All necessary hardware is included,
> along with clear instructions that make installation quick and easy.
> Sooner or later, almost every performance car owner equips their
> vehicle with some sort of strut tower brace. DeLorean owners are no
> longer left out. Finally, we too can enjoy the benefits of a shock
> tower brace!
>
> "JOE COOL"
>
> The second product is called "Joe Cool". I developed this to address
> the well-known and very annoying problem that happens when the two
> engine cooling fans turn on at exactly the same time that the AC
> compressor engages: the engine slows, the lights dim, and the
> experience of driving a performance car is ruined. Joe Cool puts
each
> fan on a separate high capacity relay and staggers their start so
that
> the compressor engages followed shortly by first one fan turning on,
> and then a moment later by the other fan turning on. This eliminates
> the drag on the engine caused by too great a load being thrown on it
> all at once.
>
> Joe Cool also handles the fan fail light in an intelligent manner.
It
> has separate internal fuses for each fan circuit. If a defect in the
> fans or their wiring results in either or both of the internal fuses
> blowing, the fan fail light will be turned on. You will not have to
> tape or paint over the word "fail" on your console anymore. Nor will
> you have that light flashing in a meaningless and annoying fashion
in
> your peripheral vision as you drive. With Joe Cool, the "Fan Fail"
> light actually means the fans have failed. (Imagine that!)
>
> Joe Cool is completely "plug and play". Just plug it in and go.
>
> Reviews of both of these products can be seen in the latest issue of
> Gullwing magazine, so if you're interested check it out. Both
products
> will come with a one-year warranty against defects in materials and
> workmanship.
>
> If you're interested in these products, we'll have a limited number
of
> each available for sale at Pheasant Run. The show is probably your
> best opportunity to buy them because they will be "show priced" at
> $150 for the shock tower bar, and $195 for the Joe Cool. (They may
be
> priced higher later on.) By buying at the show you'll also avoid
> shipping and handling.
>
> Unfortunately, we're just not set up to accept checks or credit card
> payments, so we'll only be able to accept cash payments at the show.
> Please stop by to see these products or just to chat about
DeLoreans.
>
> See you next week at the show!
>
> -Joe and Peter Kuchan
>









Messages in this topic (2)

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