From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 2:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3287

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Outer door seal adhesive?
From: Cameron, Peter


2a. Re: air conditioning.
From: DMCVIN6683

2b. Re: air conditioning.
From: David Teitelbaum


3a. Re: squeeking noise
From: cbl1739

3b. Re: squeeking noise
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


4a. Faded Clock or Lens
From: tuxr

4b. Re: Faded Clock or Lens
From: sweetp01569


5. DCS is tomorrow!!!!
From: Flavia


6a. The Rear View Mirror Issue
From: Steelwings

6b. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
From: Jake Kamphoefner

6c. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
From: David Teitelbaum

6d. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
From: Dave Swingle


7a. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
From: Chris

7b. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
From: Jake Kamphoefner


8. Re: calling Dave Price or "No Start"
From: spaceboy_2912


9. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue & How to mount a heavier mirror
From: Tom Tait


10a. Re: Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?
From: Warren Wallingford

10b. Re: Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?
From: ksgrimsr


11. Brass Radiator for sale...bringing to DCS
From: dmcerik


12. Chicago Show - Room Avail. at PR
From: Chris Pilcic


13. dcs
From: andy


14. Delorean on eBay
From: Dennis Alberts



Messages

1. Re: Outer door seal adhesive?
Posted by: "Cameron, Peter" cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov petethepop2
Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:31 am (PDT)

Rob,

Do you sell this?

Pete


From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com
Sent: Tue 5/9/2006 12:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Outer door seal adhesive?



Dan,

The best adhesive for rubber, vinyl, headliner edges, and etcetera is made
by Winzer Corp. and is called RG100. It is a semi-clear adhesive that sets
up in a few minutes and bonds firmly but is easily removable. A nice aspect
of this product is that you can ball up and remove unwanted adhesive with
your fingers after it has cured. Although 3M has perhaps the best over-all
line of adhesives, among other things, readily available in the U.S. I don't
know of a 3M adhesive with these properties. Perhaps Randal can correct me
on this assumption?

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Daniel
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 3:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Outer door seal adhesive?

Could anyone point me in the right direction as to what adhesive to
use for the outer door seals? I've had experience with 3M weatherstrip
adhesive and was not satisfied. Thanks all.

-Dan









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Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

2a. Re: air conditioning.
    Posted by: "DMCVIN6683" dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com snextime
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:31 am (PDT)

By doing this mod i didnt plan on it being reversible.

Difficult to remove, so what it is behind the door panel, who looks 
there? Even on a concourse car do you see the judges remove the door 
panels and say " hey he has foam in here, deduct 10 points".

I used the SLOW expanding so nothing gets damaged. I did a test run 3 
years ago on sealing my house with this foam, so far no damage and it 
has been 3 years now.

Duct tape... isn't that hard to remove when it gets sticky? Wont it 
damage the inside of your door panels that nobody will ever see? Wont 
it be hard to remove from the plastic? I have seen what damage duct 
tape can do.

With this mod my vents blow so hard it actually makes my hair move and 
hits me in the face.

Foam didnt get inside my duct, and if it did a razor blade, X-acto 
knife, butter knife, screwdriver or long stick would scrape it out. And 
if it did, who cares because it is my car.

Everybody come see this mod at DCS if you believe any harm will come to 
your car by doing this, look for VIN 06683.

P.S. i have had several requests for pictures off line and everybody is 
impressed on how well the vents are sealed.

You know you cant please all of the people all of the time.

Mark V


On Jun 13, 2006, at 8:45 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> You're right you can fix it that way. I prefer to use methods that are
> more reversable. That expanding foam is very difficult to remove and
> can damage things. If you squirt it into a small space it can exert
> great force as it expands, bending things. It is very bad to get it on
> your skin and it gets very hot as it cures. If you take your time you
> can make the parts fit better and you can use foam weatherstripping
> and duct tape to seal the duct up. You CAN lose a lot of cool air in
> the doors if the parts are not fit together well and a lot of the
> power of the blower motor. BTW the vents in the doors do not aim well,
> I can't get them to point over enough so you can feel the air except
> with your hand. If you feel you have to use the foam you can wrap the
> duct loosely with tape and inject the foam between the tape and the
> duct. You still would have to be careful not to get the foam inside
> the duct.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_...> wrote:
>>
>> Take your lower door panels off and use some "Great Stuff" slow
>> expanding foam and spray it completely around the vent where it comes
>> in from the door and all along the top of the black plastic housing. 
>> My
>> side vents will actually blow so hard they blow my hair around now.
>>
>> Anybody Email me direct and i will forward pictures of what i am
>> talking about.
>>
>> This modification makes your door vents supercharged.
>>
>> Mark V
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 12, 2006, at 7:21 AM, kjc wrote:
>>> On the subject of the door vents-- I hate them. They don't seal well
>>> and I
>>> don't think they can be pointed right to hit me in the face. I
> have to
>>> give
>>> the engineers a C on these guys. I have better luck with the front
>>> vents.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





Messages in this topic (12)
________________________________________________________________________

2b. Re: air conditioning.
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:37 am (PDT)

I did not mention reversability for the purpose of concours. Sometimes
things just have to be disassembled and using the foam makes it very
difficult. I am only trying to point out that there are other methods
to do this repair other than using the foam of which I am not a big
fan. I have used it for building insulation and I have seen if you use
too much you can make windows and doors impossible to open and close.
As the foam expands it can exert great force and heat. If you use too
much you can't stop it once you squirt it! 
 Duct tape can be hard to remove but it is easier than the foam. The
foam can actually fuse into plastic making it impossible to remove
without destroying the plastic. I just hope you aren't the one that
will have to deal with taking anything in the door apart in the
future! It is your car to do with as you please but someday someone
else may have to deal with the work you have done on the car after you
are gone. I try to make things I do reversable, someone may have to go
back over my work someday and if it is me I like to make it easy for
myself! I have found foam hard to control and do not recomend it for
anything but insulating hard to reach or irregular areas in building
construction.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> By doing this mod i didnt plan on it being reversible.
> 
> Difficult to remove, so what it is behind the door panel, who looks 
> there? Even on a concourse car do you see the judges remove the door 
> panels and say " hey he has foam in here, deduct 10 points".
>t tape... isn't that hard to remove when it gets sticky? Wont it 
> 








Messages in this topic (12)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

3a. Re: squeeking noise
    Posted by: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net cbl1739
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:31 am (PDT)


Soma,

As you describe it,"rubbing glass with a wet towel" Then it has to be 
some kind of rubber rubbing,and the first thing that comes to mind is 
The Drive axle boots,check to see if those are torn/loose,or if 
something is rubbing against them,or have a helper stand outside the 
car,as you drive by,and see if they can tell from which side of the 
car,it is coming from,and of course "you did check" the brakes to 
make sure it wasn't the little do-hickies,that let you know when the 
brake pads are low,you did that right?

CBL
the 
Bricklin
Guy
for
26+yrs








--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
>  
>  
> That was a great idea - in fact I even pulled the wheels off, 
adjusted the  
> parking brakes, and while I was in there I pulled out the rear 
brake pad pins,    
> cleaned them, and greased them.  Then I took it for a drive - 
unfortunately  
> that wasn't the problem because there is still something making a 
little  
> noise.
>  
> The noise I hear is very similar to rubbing glass with a wet towel, 
or the  
> sound the fuel pump makes when it is cavitating (definitely not 
the  problem).  
> It is not rhythmic and doesn't seem to be influenced by  suspension 
travel.  
> It seems to be only doing this when the car is good and  hot.  I 
didn't notice 
> it at all during warm up.  It only squeeks when  the car is moving, 
and it is 
> not related to the brakes i.e. it doesn't go away  or start when 
applying the 
> brakes.  It is not dependent on turning the car  a certain 
direction, and I 
> can only hear it at low speeds with my foot off  the gas. I tried 
pulling the 
> parking brake while I was rolling and that was  a much higher-
pitched squeek.  
> After I got home, I jacked the car up and  turned the wheels by 
hand - no 
> noises other than the typical pads rubbing  the rotors.  So, I 
guess I am 
> convinced it has to be in the suspension but  I don't know where.  
Maybe I will try 
> spraying all of the bushings with  silicone spray and see that has 
any effect.  
> I was also thinking it might  be a cooling hose or fuel line 
rubbing on the 
> frame or something.
>  
> Any other ideas?
>  
> Andy
>  
>  
> In a message dated 6/12/2006 2:40:29 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> cbl302_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> Check  your emergency brake(or as they call it now) your parking 
> brake it might  be slightly engaged.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Fargo, ND  
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (8)
________________________________________________________________________

3b. Re: squeeking noise
    Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:19 pm (PDT)

Hi,
 
Yes I checked the brakes and e-brake pads.   They are all OK, plenty of life left and none of them are dragging.  My boots are a couple of years old and are still perfect.  I have a problem with the T/A dust shields falling down onto the p/s axle for awhile but that has been fixed and is not the problem now.  I will try spraying silicone lube on the bushings tonight and see what happens.
 
Andy 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 02:18:40 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: squeeking noise



Soma,

As you describe it,"rubbing glass with a wet towel" Then it has to be 
some kind of rubber rubbing,and the first thing that comes to mind is 
The Drive axle boots,check to see if those are torn/loose,or if 
something is rubbing against them,or have a helper stand outside the 
car,as you drive by,and see if they can tell from which side of the 
car,it is coming from,and of course "you did check" the brakes to 
make sure it wasn't the little do-hickies,that let you know when the 
brake pads are low,you did that right?

CBL
the 
Bricklin
Guy
for
26+yrs








--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_... wrote:
>
>  
>  
> That was a great idea - in fact I even pulled the wheels off, 
adjusted the  
> parking brakes, and while I was in there I pulled out the rear 
brake pad pins,    
> cleaned them, and greased them.  Then I took it for a drive - 
unfortunately  
> that wasn't the problem because there is still something making a 
little  
> noise.
>  
> The noise I hear is very similar to rubbing glass with a wet towel, 
or the  
> sound the fuel pump makes when it is cavitating (definitely not 
the  problem).  
> It is not rhythmic and doesn't seem to be influenced by  suspension 
travel.  
> It seems to be only doing this when the car is good and  hot.  I 
didn't notice 
> it at all during warm up.  It only squeeks when  the car is moving, 
and it is 
> not related to the brakes i.e. it doesn't go away  or start when 
applying the 
> brakes.  It is not dependent on turning the car  a certain 
direction, and I 
> can only hear it at low speeds with my foot off  the gas. I tried 
pulling the 
> parking brake while I was rolling and that was  a much higher-
pitched squeek.  
> After I got home, I jacked the car up and  turned the wheels by 
hand - no 
> noises other than the typical pads rubbing  the rotors.  So, I 
guess I am 
> convinced it has to be in the suspension but  I don't know where.  
Maybe I will try 
> spraying all of the bushings with  silicone spray and see that has 
any effect.  
> I was also thinking it might  be a cooling hose or fuel line 
rubbing on the 
> frame or something.
>  
> Any other ideas?
>  
> Andy
>  
>  
> In a message dated 6/12/2006 2:40:29 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> cbl302_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> Check  your emergency brake(or as they call it now) your parking 
> brake it might  be slightly engaged.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Fargo, ND  
> 1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Yahoo! Groups Links



 
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Messages in this topic (8)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

4a. Faded Clock or Lens
    Posted by: "tuxr" tuxdarby_at_dml_msn.com tuxr
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:33 am (PDT)

I previously posted that I found a product at Advanced Discount Auto 
Stores that cleared up fogged and hazed lenses.  "5 Minute Optical 
Polish", $10.  I couldn't believe how good it worked, just put the pad 
on a drill, wet, and polish (tape up around the clock good so it 
doesn't hit the edges around it).  I posted a "before" and "after" 
picture in the "Celebration 4/29/06" folder.  Seems to work on tail 
lights too, I tested it on some old ones I had.  I'll be deleting the 
other pictures in that folder, the pictures of the Makes & Models 
magazine model posing next to a couple of the cars at the Celebration 
car show in April.  Last chance to see them!!!!







Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________

4b. Re: Faded Clock or Lens
    Posted by: "sweetp01569" paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com sweetp01569
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:52 pm (PDT)

I suspect that toothpaste (not gel) would work as well.  Small 
circular motion with a dab on a tissue or soft cloth works wonders to 
eliminate or reduce scratches on plastic or glass. I've used it on 
badly scratched DVD's to make them work in my player.  Might be better 
than paying $10.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tuxr" <tuxdarby_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I previously posted that I found a product at Advanced Discount Auto 
> Stores that cleared up fogged and hazed lenses.  "5 Minute Optical 
> Polish", $10.  I couldn't believe how good it worked, just put the 
pad 
> on a drill, wet, and polish (tape up around the clock good so it 
> doesn't hit the edges around it).  I posted a "before" and "after" 
> picture in the "Celebration 4/29/06" folder.  Seems to work on tail 
> lights too, I tested it on some old ones I had.  I'll be deleting 
the 
> other pictures in that folder, the pictures of the Makes & Models 
> magazine model posing next to a couple of the cars at the 
Celebration 
> car show in April.  Last chance to see them!!!!
>









Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

5. DCS is tomorrow!!!!
    Posted by: "Flavia" frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com frvianna
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:34 am (PDT)

Hi everyone

For those that do not know, I am helping Ken with registration for the 
show. And as Gary stated, you cannot register on the website anymore. I 
already printed, laminated and hole punched all of the nametags and 
they look great!
You probably know this by now, but you'll get your badge with a pin and 
lanyard. Those who registered before May 1 will get a free T-shirt and 
I'll also have listed those who registered after May 1 and purchased a 
shirt. Those who are doing the Friday tour are also getting a CD or 
cassette tape.
I am not sure if I'll leave for Chicago tonight or tomorrow at the 
crack of dawn. I know for sure that we will be doing last minute 
registration on Thursday in the afternoon, the process should run 
smooth so last minute registrants can join everybody else and enjoy the 
show.
I can't wait to see everyone, I am sure this will be a great show.

See you in Chicago......

Flavia








Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

6a. The Rear View Mirror Issue
    Posted by: "Steelwings" steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net norust2001
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:37 am (PDT)

***Moderator's Note*** This post was edited for profanity. Please keep it clean in the future. Thanks.

Could someone please explain why we must attach our rear-view mirror with
that awful tape pad?  I understand that the window may crack due to the
difference in expansion ratios between the metal foot, the hard adhesive and
the glass when using the conventional adhesives. I guess the real question
here is how did this situation come about in the first place and who was
responsible? The second question is: Will using a plastic aftermarket mirror
shoe facilitate the use of regular window adhesive? Third: Can a flexible
adhesive that will expand and contract with temperature such as "GOOP" or
silicone be acceptable? Fourth: Are we simply stuck with a *(#$! quality
windshield? Last: How come this happened to us instead of the Mustang owners
group?

Steelwings

#1559

 

  _____  

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Justin Lambright
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 2:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: New free 'cell phone' parking lots at Chicago
airports

 

on a normal day, probably about 45 min. 
in your case, i'd say add an hour to it, lol

Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproje <mailto:cliff%40deloreanproject.com>
ct.com> wrote:
what is the driving time estimate from O-Hara about 4:30PM Friday? - I
have to pick someone up around them :-(

probably couldn't be a worse time...

tnx, Cliff

On Tue, 06 Jun 2006 23:04:30 -0000, you wrote:

>Flying into Chicago for DCS 2006?
>
>Some info for people flying in for the events next week,
>especially if they are being picked up at the airport by
>someone who is already in the Chicago area.
>
>Drivers picking up passengers at Chicago's airports can
>avoid some of the runaround by using new free cell phone 
>parking lots that have been opened on June 1, 2006.
>
>The lots, located within a five-minute drive of terminals 
>at O'Hare International and Midway Airports, are now open
>and provide places for motorists to wait for arriving 
>passengers without having to pay to park, waste precious 
>gas or risk ticketing and towing.
>
>After receiving a phone call, drivers can proceed to the 
>terminal to pick up passengers waiting at curbside.
>
>The cell phone lot at O'Hare has 150 spaces designated
>in economy parking lot F, off Bessie Coleman Drive. 
>Signs directing drivers to the cell lot are posted on
>Mannheim and Zemke Roads and on I-190, the access 
>highway from the Kennedy Expressway.
>
>The 90-space cell phone lot at Midway is at 61st Street 
>and Cicero Avenue, south of the main airport entrance. 
>Signs are installed on Cicero and along the lower-level
>roadway outside the terminal.
>
>Drivers waiting in the cell phone lots must be inside 
>their vehicles at all times, and parking is limited to
>one hour. Violators will be ticketed and towed.
>
>Hope everyone has a safe trip here next week.
>
>Later,
>Rich W.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews. <mailto:moderators%40dmcnews.com> com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>

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Messages in this topic (13)
________________________________________________________________________

6b. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
    Posted by: "Jake Kamphoefner" jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net jakekamp
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:37 am (PDT)

 
  I understand that it is different than American cars, but are you really this upset for having to buy a 15 cent mirror pad??  There is nothing wrong with the windshield or the rear view mirror.
   
  You must make sure you have properly cleaned and prepared the area before applying the glue, and it will stay there for thousands and thousands of miles.
   
  Jake Kamphoefner
  1063
  

Steelwings <steelwings_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
  ***Moderator's Note*** This post was edited for profanity. Please keep it clean in the future. Thanks.

Could someone please explain why we must attach our rear-view mirror with
that awful tape pad? I understand that the window may crack due to the
difference in expansion ratios between the metal foot, the hard adhesive and
the glass when using the conventional adhesives. I guess the real question
here is how did this situation come about in the first place and who was
responsible? The second question is: Will using a plastic aftermarket mirror
shoe facilitate the use of regular window adhesive? Third: Can a flexible
adhesive that will expand and contract with temperature such as "GOOP" or
silicone be acceptable? Fourth: Are we simply stuck with a *(#$! quality
windshield? Last: How come this happened to us instead of the Mustang owners
group?

Steelwings

#1559



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (13)
________________________________________________________________________

6c. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:38 am (PDT)

I do not know the scientific explanation of why you MUST use the
double-stick tape. I DO know from other's painful experience that if
you glue the mirror directly onto the glass it either falls off or
eventually will crack the glass. The pad is not so awful. If you trim
it after applying it to the mirror before you mount the mirror onto
the glass you cannot tell there is any tape there between them. If you
use an aftermarket mirror and/or do not use the tape you do so at your
own risk for damaging the windshield. One very good point to the tape
is that you do not have to wait for glue to dry and they do not fall
off if it gets very hot inside. Back around the late 70's-early 80's
it was very common to get into your car on a very hot day and find the
mirror on the seat or the floor (not on Deloreans but on many American
cars). I reglued many a mirror back on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> ***Moderator's Note*** This post was edited for profanity. Please
keep it clean in the future. Thanks.
> 
> Could someone please explain why we must attach our rear-view mirror
with
> that awful tape pad?  I understand that the window may crack due to the
> 








Messages in this topic (13)
________________________________________________________________________

6d. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue
    Posted by: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com daveswingle2
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:53 pm (PDT)

Obviously the ultimate "responsibility" for this, as well as the rest 
of any design elements of the car, rests with an entity that went out 
of business about 23 years ago. So it's not exactly the most important 
question at this time, the important question is how do deal with it. 
It's a $2 problem (plus shipping!). 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steelwings" <steelwings_at_dml_...> wrote:
> Could someone please explain why we must attach our rear-view mirror 
with
> that awful tape pad? ---<snip>--- I guess the real question
> here is how did this situation come about in the first place and who 
was
> responsible? ---<snip>--- 
>   ____







Messages in this topic (13)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7a. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
    Posted by: "Chris" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com chrisau79
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:37 am (PDT)

What does the shock tower fix do to the trunk space? Will a golf bag 
fit? Mine has to go in diagonally as it is. 

Chris
06301

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jakekamp" <jakekamp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I would like to chime in here as I was one of the testers for both 
of 
> these products.  My DeLorean is driven daily, in all kinds 
> conditions, so it makes a good test vehicle for any new product.
> 
> I've been running both of Joe's and Peter's products now for 
hundreds 
> (thousands?) of miles and I couldn't be happier.  For anyone who 
> hasn't yet met Joe, he gives you the same kind of confidence in 
his 
> products that Toby does.  These are guys who really know their 
stuff 
> and build quality, tested equipment.
> 
> Both items are ridiculously easy to install and you notice an 
> immediate difference.  Most are probably familiar with 
the "floating" 
> feeling the DeLorean gives in the front end when you push it to 
the 
> limit.  The shock tower makes a big difference in alleviating that.
> 
> The Fan Controller I really like because it staggers the cycling 
on 
> of the A/C compressor, and each fan, just like the Fanzilla used 
to.  
> It also restores the function of the fan fail light.  During 
testing, 
> I removed an internal fuse to simulate a fan failure and it 
correctly 
> lit my fan fail light.  This was the first time I'd seen it light 
up 
> since I've owned the car!  I should also note that the unit is 
> compatible with LEDs, as well as regular bulbs (mine are all LEDs 
in 
> my console).
> 
> Cool stuff!  Both have made my car much more of a pleasure to 
drive.
> 
> If anyone has any questions about the install or real-world use, 
look 
> me up at Pheasant Run and I'd be happy to chat about them.
> 
> Jake Kamphoefner
> 1063
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joekuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Many of you are familiar with the work my son and I did on VIN 
6195,
> > some of which can even be termed "pioneering". The car was 
featured 
> in
> > several articles in Gullwing magazine over the past few years 
and 
> was
> > the first place winner in its category at Pigeon Forge. The mods
> > included HID projector headlamps, Brembo cross-drilled and 
slotted
> > front brakes, custom wheels and tires, unique custom fuel system 
> mods
> > for enrichment under boost (the car had a BAE turbo), an electric
> > scavenge pump for the turbo, custom stereo installation, fully 
> painted
> > and detailed engine with custom metallized airbox, and on and 
on...
> > 
> > We were always in search of improvements that would update the 
car 
> and
> > make it more fun to drive. That's why we're now so pleased to 
bring
> > what we think are two very exciting new products, originally 
> developed
> > for 6195, to the entire DeLorean community. 
> > 
> > "ENJOY THE RIDE" 
> > 
> > The first product is a shock tower brace called "Enjoy the Ride".
> > Peter developed this product to improve the cornering and general
> > handling of the car. This is the only shock tower bar available 
for
> > DeLoreans, and to our knowledge is the only significant 
suspension
> > improvement other than the lowering kits that are available from
> > various sources. 
> > 
> > It works by tying the tops of the two front shock towers 
together,
> > stiffening the front end of the car. The effect is to limit the 
> camber
> > change that occurs during hard cornering. That, in turn, reduces
> > under-steer, thereby giving the car a more controlled, precise, 
and
> > fun driveability in the turns. It's made from high strength,
> > lightweight aircraft quality aluminum alloy (6061-T6) and comes
> > polished for a great appearance. All necessary hardware is 
included,
> > along with clear instructions that make installation quick and 
easy.
> > Sooner or later, almost every performance car owner equips their
> > vehicle with some sort of strut tower brace. DeLorean owners are 
no
> > longer left out. Finally, we too can enjoy the benefits of a 
shock
> > tower brace!
> > 
> > "JOE COOL"
> > 
> > The second product is called "Joe Cool". I developed this to 
address
> > the well-known and very annoying problem that happens when the 
two
> > engine cooling fans turn on at exactly the same time that the AC
> > compressor engages: the engine slows, the lights dim, and the
> > experience of driving a performance car is ruined. Joe Cool puts 
> each
> > fan on a separate high capacity relay and staggers their start 
so 
> that
> > the compressor engages followed shortly by first one fan turning 
on,
> > and then a moment later by the other fan turning on. This 
eliminates
> > the drag on the engine caused by too great a load being thrown 
on it
> > all at once.
> > 
> > Joe Cool also handles the fan fail light in an intelligent 
manner. 
> It
> > has separate internal fuses for each fan circuit. If a defect in 
the
> > fans or their wiring results in either or both of the internal 
fuses
> > blowing, the fan fail light will be turned on. You will not have 
to
> > tape or paint over the word "fail" on your console anymore. Nor 
will
> > you have that light flashing in a meaningless and annoying 
fashion 
> in
> > your peripheral vision as you drive. With Joe Cool, the "Fan 
Fail"
> > light actually means the fans have failed. (Imagine that!) 
> > 
> > Joe Cool is completely "plug and play". Just plug it in and go.
> > 
> > Reviews of both of these products can be seen in the latest 
issue of
> > Gullwing magazine, so if you're interested check it out. Both 
> products
> > will come with a one-year warranty against defects in materials 
and
> > workmanship.
> > 
> > If you're interested in these products, we'll have a limited 
number 
> of
> > each available for sale at Pheasant Run. The show is probably 
your
> > best opportunity to buy them because they will be "show priced" 
at
> > $150 for the shock tower bar, and $195 for the Joe Cool. (They 
may 
> be
> > priced higher later on.) By buying at the show you'll also avoid
> > shipping and handling. 
> > 
> > Unfortunately, we're just not set up to accept checks or credit 
card
> > payments, so we'll only be able to accept cash payments at the 
show.
> > Please stop by to see these products or just to chat about 
> DeLoreans.
> > 
> > See you next week at the show!
> > 
> > -Joe and Peter Kuchan
> >
>









Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________

7b. Re: A couple of exciting new products available at DCS 06 in Pheasan
    Posted by: "Jake Kamphoefner" jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net jakekamp
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:41 am (PDT)

 
  The tower brace does decrease the trunk depth in that area, but only by the diameter of the bar (maybe and inch or so).
   
  You must have a smaller golf bag than I do, though.  I've never been able to get them to fit anywhere except the back shelf.
   
  Jake 
  1063
  

Chris <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
  What does the shock tower fix do to the trunk space? Will a golf bag 
fit? Mine has to go in diagonally as it is. 

Chris
06301

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "jakekamp" wrote:
>
> I would like to chime in here as I was one of the testers for both 
of 
> these products. My DeLorean is driven daily, in all kinds 
> conditions, so it makes a good test vehicle for any new product.
> 
> I've been running both of Joe's and Peter's products now for 
hundreds 
> (thousands?) of miles and I couldn't be happier. For anyone who 
> hasn't yet met Joe, he gives you the same kind of confidence in 
his 
> products that Toby does. These are guys who really know their 
stuff 
> and build quality, tested equipment.
> 
> Both items are ridiculously easy to install and you notice an 
> immediate difference. Most are probably familiar with 
the "floating" 
> feeling the DeLorean gives in the front end when you push it to 
the 
> limit. The shock tower makes a big difference in alleviating that.
> 
> The Fan Controller I really like because it staggers the cycling 
on 
> of the A/C compressor, and each fan, just like the Fanzilla used 
to. 
> It also restores the function of the fan fail light. During 
testing, 
> I removed an internal fuse to simulate a fan failure and it 
correctly 
> lit my fan fail light. This was the first time I'd seen it light 
up 
> since I've owned the car! I should also note that the unit is 
> compatible with LEDs, as well as regular bulbs (mine are all LEDs 
in 
> my console).
> 
> Cool stuff! Both have made my car much more of a pleasure to 
drive.
> 
> If anyone has any questions about the install or real-world use, 
look 
> me up at Pheasant Run and I'd be happy to chat about them.
> 
> Jake Kamphoefner
> 1063
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "joekuchan" wrote:
> >
> > Many of you are familiar with the work my son and I did on VIN 
6195,
> > some of which can even be termed "pioneering". The car was 
featured 
> in
> > several articles in Gullwing magazine over the past few years 
and 
> was
> > the first place winner in its category at Pigeon Forge. The mods
> > included HID projector headlamps, Brembo cross-drilled and 
slotted
> > front brakes, custom wheels and tires, unique custom fuel system 
> mods
> > for enrichment under boost (the car had a BAE turbo), an electric
> > scavenge pump for the turbo, custom stereo installation, fully 
> painted
> > and detailed engine with custom metallized airbox, and on and 
on...
> > 
> > We were always in search of improvements that would update the 
car 
> and
> > make it more fun to drive. That's why we're now so pleased to 
bring
> > what we think are two very exciting new products, originally 
> developed
> > for 6195, to the entire DeLorean community. 
> > 
> > "ENJOY THE RIDE" 
> > 
> > The first product is a shock tower brace called "Enjoy the Ride".
> > Peter developed this product to improve the cornering and general
> > handling of the car. This is the only shock tower bar available 
for
> > DeLoreans, and to our knowledge is the only significant 
suspension
> > improvement other than the lowering kits that are available from
> > various sources. 
> > 
> > It works by tying the tops of the two front shock towers 
together,
> > stiffening the front end of the car. The effect is to limit the 
> camber
> > change that occurs during hard cornering. That, in turn, reduces
> > under-steer, thereby giving the car a more controlled, precise, 
and
> > fun driveability in the turns. It's made from high strength,
> > lightweight aircraft quality aluminum alloy (6061-T6) and comes
> > polished for a great appearance. All necessary hardware is 
included,
> > along with clear instructions that make installation quick and 
easy.
> > Sooner or later, almost every performance car owner equips their
> > vehicle with some sort of strut tower brace. DeLorean owners are 
no
> > longer left out. Finally, we too can enjoy the benefits of a 
shock
> > tower brace!
> > 
> > "JOE COOL"
> > 
> > The second product is called "Joe Cool". I developed this to 
address
> > the well-known and very annoying problem that happens when the 
two
> > engine cooling fans turn on at exactly the same time that the AC
> > compressor engages: the engine slows, the lights dim, and the
> > experience of driving a performance car is ruined. Joe Cool puts 
> each
> > fan on a separate high capacity relay and staggers their start 
so 
> that
> > the compressor engages followed shortly by first one fan turning 
on,
> > and then a moment later by the other fan turning on. This 
eliminates
> > the drag on the engine caused by too great a load being thrown 
on it
> > all at once.
> > 
> > Joe Cool also handles the fan fail light in an intelligent 
manner. 
> It
> > has separate internal fuses for each fan circuit. If a defect in 
the
> > fans or their wiring results in either or both of the internal 
fuses
> > blowing, the fan fail light will be turned on. You will not have 
to
> > tape or paint over the word "fail" on your console anymore. Nor 
will
> > you have that light flashing in a meaningless and annoying 
fashion 
> in
> > your peripheral vision as you drive. With Joe Cool, the "Fan 
Fail"
> > light actually means the fans have failed. (Imagine that!) 
> > 
> > Joe Cool is completely "plug and play". Just plug it in and go.
> > 
> > Reviews of both of these products can be seen in the latest 
issue of
> > Gullwing magazine, so if you're interested check it out. Both 
> products
> > will come with a one-year warranty against defects in materials 
and
> > workmanship.
> > 
> > If you're interested in these products, we'll have a limited 
number 
> of
> > each available for sale at Pheasant Run. The show is probably 
your
> > best opportunity to buy them because they will be "show priced" 
at
> > $150 for the shock tower bar, and $195 for the Joe Cool. (They 
may 
> be
> > priced higher later on.) By buying at the show you'll also avoid
> > shipping and handling. 
> > 
> > Unfortunately, we're just not set up to accept checks or credit 
card
> > payments, so we'll only be able to accept cash payments at the 
show.
> > Please stop by to see these products or just to chat about 
> DeLoreans.
> > 
> > See you next week at the show!
> > 
> > -Joe and Peter Kuchan
> >
>









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links









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Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8. Re: calling Dave Price or "No Start"
    Posted by: "spaceboy_2912" seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net spaceboy_2912
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:39 am (PDT)

I have seen cars with vins as high as 29xx that had not been modified
so if you are an owner who may experience this problem don't hold that
2547 cut off as being accurate. You can remove the two screws that
hold the relay strip to the box and view the underside of the starter
relay to inspect if the modification has been performed. Here is a
reference of the service bulletin provided by the list's website:

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-05-2.82.html

Sean Mullins

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Early vin cars before 2547 had to have a modification done to the start
> inhibit relay. That my be your problem. I have the fix on the web site.
> John Hervey 
> www.specialtauto.com










Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9. Re: The Rear View Mirror Issue & How to mount a heavier mirror
    Posted by: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com thomasttait
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:38 am (PDT)

I have installed a much larger, heavier auto dimming rear view mirror
instead of the stock one.  In order to do this I cut a large base out of
black plastic (I used black plexiglass and sanded it to a desired
finish, sintra would work too) and first joined that to the windshield
using double stick tape from a vendor.  My base is large, nearly 2" wide
(the width of the mirror base) by 9" tall (the height required to run
from where that base must meet the windshield up to the headliner), so
it is nearly 18 square inches of contact area.  That's a lot of
doublestick tape.  I then used traditional adhesive to put a standard
mounting button on it and hang the mirror.  No problems so far.

 

The weakest point in my design is in fact the adhesive used to mount the
button.  If that fails I have just enough thickness in my plex base to
countersink a small rivet through it and through the button.  My mirror
has enough clearance over the face of the button to accommodate that.
Between a rivet and adhesive, the button would be on the new base
forever.

 

In your application, you could produce a smaller base, say 2" square and
use good doublestick to mount it right over the black pad on your
windshield.  This would allow you to use roughly 4X the amount of
doublestick tape as a normal install.  You would then use whatever
adhesive you desire to mount the mirror.

 

Find a happy compromise between the size of the plastic base (mostly
hidden inside the car by the mirror but visible from outside) for
surface area versus aesthetics, and make sure to use black doublestick
tape as it is visible from outside the car.   If you know Deloreans, my
large base is an obvious departure, but may modern cars have similar
mountings so it looks normal to an untrained eye.

 

On a side note, as low as the car rides it sure is nice to have the
autodim rearview mirror as every SUV headlight in the world comes right
in on it at full brightness, and knowing the temp outside helps too if
your keeping an eye on your cooling or AC system.

 

Tom

10902

 

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Steelwings
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 7:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The Rear View Mirror Issue

 

***Moderator's Note*** This post was edited for profanity. Please keep
it clean in the future. Thanks.

Could someone please explain why we must attach our rear-view mirror
with
that awful tape pad? I understand that the window may crack due to the
difference in expansion ratios between the metal foot, the hard adhesive
and
the glass when using the conventional adhesives. I guess the real
question
here is how did this situation come about in the first place and who was
responsible? The second question is: Will using a plastic aftermarket
mirror
shoe facilitate the use of regular window adhesive? Third: Can a
flexible
adhesive that will expand and contract with temperature such as "GOOP"
or
silicone be acceptable? Fourth: Are we simply stuck with a *(#$! quality
windshield? Last: How come this happened to us instead of the Mustang
owners
group?

Steelwings

#1559

_____ 

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
Behalf Of
Justin Lambright
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 2:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: New free 'cell phone' parking lots at Chicago
airports

on a normal day, probably about 45 min. 
in your case, i'd say add an hour to it, lol

Cliff Schmucker <cliff_at_dml_deloreanproje
<mailto:cliff%40deloreanproject.com>
ct.com> wrote:
what is the driving time estimate from O-Hara about 4:30PM Friday? - I
have to pick someone up around them :-(

probably couldn't be a worse time...

tnx, Cliff

On Tue, 06 Jun 2006 23:04:30 -0000, you wrote:

>Flying into Chicago for DCS 2006?
>
>Some info for people flying in for the events next week,
>especially if they are being picked up at the airport by
>someone who is already in the Chicago area.
>
>Drivers picking up passengers at Chicago's airports can
>avoid some of the runaround by using new free cell phone 
>parking lots that have been opened on June 1, 2006.
>
>The lots, located within a five-minute drive of terminals 
>at O'Hare International and Midway Airports, are now open
>and provide places for motorists to wait for arriving 
>passengers without having to pay to park, waste precious 
>gas or risk ticketing and towing.
>
>After receiving a phone call, drivers can proceed to the 
>terminal to pick up passengers waiting at curbside.
>
>The cell phone lot at O'Hare has 150 spaces designated
>in economy parking lot F, off Bessie Coleman Drive. 
>Signs directing drivers to the cell lot are posted on
>Mannheim and Zemke Roads and on I-190, the access 
>highway from the Kennedy Expressway.
>
>The 90-space cell phone lot at Midway is at 61st Street 
>and Cicero Avenue, south of the main airport entrance. 
>Signs are installed on Cicero and along the lower-level
>roadway outside the terminal.
>
>Drivers waiting in the cell phone lots must be inside 
>their vehicles at all times, and parking is limited to
>one hour. Violators will be ticketed and towed.
>
>Hope everyone has a safe trip here next week.
>
>Later,
>Rich W.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews. <mailto:moderators%40dmcnews.com> com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> > yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com <http://mail.yahoo.com> > yahoo.com 

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Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10a. Re: Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?
    Posted by: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com dmc_warren
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 12:55 pm (PDT)

The Delorean PRV is an interference engine, but just barely.  The valves 
will just mark the top of the piston if the cams are not turning and the 
crank is.  That said, I've never encountered cam chains broken from 
wear: never.  A greater danger is loss of oil pressure that will allow 
the chains to loosen and perhaps jump time.  Even more dangerous is 
severe overheating that that can pop out a valve seat which will hang up 
in the combustion chamber, putting a hole in the piston or bending a 
valve or rod.  That will break your chain.
Warren at DMC

mike p wrote:
> Hi, I'm concerned about my timing chain going and more concerned about  what will happen to the engine if the timing chain breaks. 
>   
>   If the Delorean engine is an interference engine, then I understand it  will be trashed if the timing chain breaks.  My car has over 140K  miles, although the seller and odometer said it only had 40K miles, and  I am considering replacing the timing chain.  
>   
>   Does anyone know what signs I should look for if the chain is about to go?, pinging?
>   
>   Thanks,
>   
>   Mike
>   #5781




Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

10b. Re: Is the Delorean engine an Interference Engine?
    Posted by: "ksgrimsr" knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com ksgrimsr
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:14 pm (PDT)

I can attest to the timing chain setup being pretty robust in the 
PRV. I have a 100,000-mile engine torn down on an engine stand in my 
shop, and the chain tensioners are barely even scuffed on their 
gliding surface with lots of travel left in the tensioners (they 
ratchet one way to maintain chain tension). With my torn-down engine 
I see little tendency for chain tension to be lost from either the 
chain relaxing over time nor the guides wearing. It looks as tight 
as brand new and the chains themselves appear perfectly fine.

I'm not sure what the failure mode for the timing chain would be, 
but there does not appear to be a wear-related issue with that part 
of the system. A sudden and catastrophic break of the chain is 
conceivable, but I suspect in most cases it would be precipitated by 
some other stress condition first (or other failure that cascades).

I look forward to seeing you all at DCS.

   Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> The Delorean PRV is an interference engine, but just barely.  The 
valves 
> will just mark the top of the piston if the cams are not turning 
and the 
> crank is.  That said, I've never encountered cam chains broken 
from 
> wear: never.  A greater danger is loss of oil pressure that will 
allow 
> the chains to loosen and perhaps jump time.  Even more dangerous 
is 
> severe overheating that that can pop out a valve seat which will 
hang up 
> in the combustion chamber, putting a hole in the piston or bending 
a 
> valve or rod.  That will break your chain.
> Warren at DMC
> 
> mike p wrote:
> > Hi, I'm concerned about my timing chain going and more concerned 
about  what will happen to the engine if the timing chain breaks. 
> >   
> >   If the Delorean engine is an interference engine, then I 
understand it  will be trashed if the timing chain breaks.  My car 
has over 140K  miles, although the seller and odometer said it only 
had 40K miles, and  I am considering replacing the timing chain.  
> >   
> >   Does anyone know what signs I should look for if the chain is 
about to go?, pinging?
> >   
> >   Thanks,
> >   
> >   Mike
> >   #5781
>









Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

11. Brass Radiator for sale...bringing to DCS
    Posted by: "dmcerik" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com dmcerik
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:15 pm (PDT)

Hello,
I have a great condition, brass radiator for sale.  It is used, but 
this past weekend I had a very good radiator shop clean it up, and test 
it out.  I'm going to be bringing it with me to the show in case anyone 
has a need for it.  Maybe since I am bringing it, nobody will need 
it...I hope thats the case.

Erik
04512









Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

12. Chicago Show - Room Avail. at PR
    Posted by: "Chris Pilcic" chrisdmc82_at_dml_yahoo.com chrisdmc82
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:16 pm (PDT)

Hello Everyone, 
   
  Well I hate to say this but I will not be able to attend the Chicago show.  I have been offered a job outside of my hometown and I must go look for places to live.  
   
  I had a room at PR that I canceled today, so I'm sure if someone acts quickly you can get it.  It was in the $114 Price range. 
   
  I hate to miss the show, but this is one of those jobs I cannot pass up.  
   
  Enjoy the Show Everyone! 
  Chris Pilcic
   
   
   

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Messages in this topic (1)
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13. dcs
    Posted by: "andy" andyblackmon_at_dml_aol.com titaninum
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:18 pm (PDT)

Well like a lots of you folks, the Blackmon are leaving shortly for 
Chicago, it will be nice to meet some of the people who have given me 
so much advice. The journey of 750 miles begins by getting in the car, 
so here goes.
Andy 03513









Messages in this topic (1)
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14. Delorean on eBay
    Posted by: "Dennis Alberts" DBJCFam_at_dml_alltel.net dbjcfam
    Date: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:23 pm (PDT)

I was thinking of bidding on the Delorean from Specialty Sales on eBay.
Does anyone know anything about the car?  I would appreciate any
information.  Here's a link to the auction:

http://tinyurl.com/j2mpt

 

Thanks,

Dennis



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Messages in this topic (2)
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