From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 11:27 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3301

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Differential Adjesting Screw Assembly #103802
From: Byrne Heninger


2a. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
From: John Hervey

2b. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
From: David Teitelbaum

2c. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


3. Re: More Club Participation (was: So...who won the raffle car?)
From: Randal


4a. DMCMD Maryland Club - was (Re: Gettysburg questions recieved)
From: conundrum1984

4b. DMCMD Maryland Club - was (Re: Gettysburg questions recieved)
From: Bernie


5a. Re: News Coverage
From: Bob Brandys

5b. Re: News Coverage
From: IN2TIME


6. Re: Fantastic Millennium Concours at DCS'06
From: Sandor and Heather Piszar


7. Re: Greasiest Hands Award DCS 2006
From: Cliff Schmucker


8. Re: Idea for DCS 2008
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


9. Re: Joe Cool - Photos, Price, and How to order
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


10. Second chance on Vin plates from Ken
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


11. Re: Mirrors are sold out!!
From: rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com


12. rooms at Gettysburg (not bad)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


13. Re: Cold FART problem
From: rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com


14. Need a 40+ foot rig
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


15. Re: DCS Registration
From: Flavia


16. Trouble shifting into first gear
From: Derek


17. Re: Clunk, clunk, clunk
From: David Teitelbaum


18. Ten Things I Learned On The DCS Road Trip
From: bbbigray


19. Under Body to Frame Bolts........
From: Mike Bosworth


20. Temperature specs for R-134a
From: Tell you if you ask.


21. Re: www.delorean.ie has been updated!
From: John Dore



Messages

1. Differential Adjesting Screw Assembly #103802
Posted by: "Byrne Heninger" heningerandassoc_at_dml_earthlink.net churchishis
Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:46 am (PDT)

Lingo,
If you are referring to part 103802, please let me know. I may be able to help you. Byrne

Byrne Heninger
heningerandassoc_at_dml_earthlink.net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)

2a. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:48 am (PDT)

You should have this heater control valve behind the fuel distributor.
Check it out.
John
www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/heater-conbtrol-valve-kit.jpg




-----Original Message-----
From:at88mph
Subject: [DML] Question about a/c and hot water valve

They went to looking and found out that I don't have a hot water valve at all.  Its completely gone.





Messages in this topic (4)
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2b. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:07 am (PDT)

Having that heater valve installed won't make all that much difference. The valve is only closed when on MAX COOL. Make sure all of the air ducts and actuators are working properly and are hooked up correctly. If you are not recirculating the air and are pulling too much outside air in that could be a problem. Make sure you are not losing too much air inside the doors from leakage in the ducts. Make sure the heater fan is turning the right way. Make sure the boot on the center ducts is installed properly. 59 degrees sitting at idle is not bad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Welp, I took the D to the a/c shop and they couldn't really figure
out why it wasn't cooling correctly (guages showed EXACTLY what they should be according to the manual and the fans were both working and pulling the heat away) however, the best the car could do was 59 degrees sitting at idle.  They went to looking and found out that I don't have a hot water valve at all.  Its completely gone.  They said that putting the valve in place, or putting a cut off valve in its place would more than likey resolve the issue.  Does this sound right?
> 
> Thanks again for any help! 
>  ._,___
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (4)
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2c. Re: Question about a/c and hot water valve
    Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:07 am (PDT)

 
 
I think you just found your problem!  The hot water valve should be  located right behind the engine - there are three hoses that go it and one  vacuum line.  If it is OEM it is probably really rusty by now.  If you  have no hot water valve, then hot coolant is going to your heater core, which is  warming the 
cold air from the A/C.  Good detective work by your shop!   Sometimes on here 
we forget to take into account the dreaded PO 'repairs' that  may have altered your car from stock.
 
Andy
 
In a message dated 6/22/2006 3:35:21 P.M. Central Standard Time, at88mph_at_dml_comcast.net writes:

Welp,  I took the D to the a/c shop and they couldn't really figure out why it  wasn't cooling correctly (guages showed EXACTLY what they should be according  to the manual and the fans were both working and pulling the heat away)however, the best the car could do was 59 degrees sitting at idle.  They went to looking and found out that I don't have a hot water valve at  all.  Its completely gone.




Messages in this topic (4)
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3. Re: More Club Participation (was: So...who won the raffle car?)
    Posted by: "Randal" azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com azman3us
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:50 am (PDT)

OK - I need to jump in here... Lots of Clubs and individuals have lent a hand during DCS shows in support rolls and all the efforts are truly appreciated by Ken,his family and attendees.  When the word start was used it was used in the context of a leadership roll and start actually running the show... The example was the "DMA Hosting The Saturday Night Dinner" as no one or club has ever done this the choice of words in this context was appropriate and not meant to slight anybody's efforts.  Maybe we were all just tired <G>

Just by the responses generated it truly reflects the passion and support for the DCS shows by the DeLorean community and the willingness to take it to the next level!  Again there's a plethora of involvement that happens behind the scenes that garners little acknowledgment for these unsung heroes.  For this I think we can all say thanks!

Overall the responses on this topic have been very positive and will offer us an opportunity to keep the show fresh, fun and full of surprises for 2008.  Should anyone wish to discuss this topic further or would like to be apart of the '08 planning please contact me off line as we can use your help.

Randal  

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Well said, Shannon.  For those who have put a lot of effort into DCS, 
> past and present, it was hard to listen to the use of START helping in 
> that context.  I'm not sure if it was a lack of sleep or some feelings 
> hurt, but it did not sit well.
> 
> I knew it was more than just me cringing during those words, but I'm 
> sure the intention was to motivate the other clubs.
> 
> Again, a big thanks to everyone who helped make the DCS 2006 event a 
> huge success and a very fitting tribute to JZD.
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > Not that my feelings were hurt but since it's been brought up...
> there has always been a number of [ plug - plug ;-) ] DeLorean Club of 
> Ohio members/non-members (www.ohiodeloreans.com) who've been helping 
> since the beginning or near to it. Just ask Ken, Josh, Richard, Cliff, 
> etc.
> >
> > Dave & Julee did an excellent job with the driving tour CD.
> Reminds me of Mike & Patti's Cleveland tour.
> >
> > How about:   Clubs that haven't helped need to START and those
> that have helped need to START helping more! :-)
> >
> > Shannon Y
> > 16506
>










Messages in this topic (7)
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4a. DMCMD Maryland Club - was (Re: Gettysburg questions recieved)
    Posted by: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com conundrum1984
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:51 am (PDT)

That pretty much sums it up.  A lot of DMA get togethers are in NJ or NY.  I don't have much time to get that far.  DCS I was lucky.  
Now if the DMA summer tour or anything is in PA, I'll try to make it and join the club.  I'm not picking on anyone because I'm in DMCMD.  
That's just how it is for me.

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Not knowing the answers, I would guess...  distance & convenience
play a factor.
> 
> DMCMD = local club
> DMA = regional club
> DCS & DOA = national club
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506








Messages in this topic (3)
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4b. DMCMD Maryland Club - was (Re: Gettysburg questions recieved)
    Posted by: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net bmdmc
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:55 am (PDT)

OK to settle this once and for all.  DMCMD is NOT an organized club, Chuck McKnight made the group on Yahoo forums, wow an electronic group, just like most others.  We do not have officers or dues.  It's
an electronic club, gettting the picture yet?   When we do something
it's posted on the Yahoo group, amyone is welcome to join.

If we do an outing everyone will be expected to pay their own way. 
Should we do something special, that requires a pre-pay we would expect everyone to pre-pay.  

Otherwise join the group, and watch for announcements about activities.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Not knowing the answers, I would guess...  distance & convenience
play a factor.
> 
> DMCMD = local club
> DMA = regional club
> DCS & DOA = national club
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
> -----------------
> 2b. Re: Gettysburg questions recieved
>     Posted by: "Marc Levy" malevy_nj_at_dml_... malevy_nj
>     Date: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:27 pm (PDT)
> 
> As I scratch my head and wonder why there is a separate MD club at 
> all..  <shrug>




Messages in this topic (3)
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5a. Re: News Coverage
    Posted by: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com bob6351
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:51 am (PDT)

We got the Doings article this PM on the BTTF BBQ.  It mentioned Dan Harris, Oliver & Terry,  and us.

Dan please send me your address and I will send you a copy of the article.

Bob Brandys





Messages in this topic (3)
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5b. Re: News Coverage
    Posted by: "IN2TIME" Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com xynext
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:18 am (PDT)

> tuxr asked:

> Anybody have any links to various news reports on the

> DeLorean gathering last weekend?

 

Check out: http://deloreancarshow.com/dcs-2006/events-others.html 

 

If anyone has more links to news or pictures, please let me know and I'll add them.

 

Gary

IN2TIME

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (3)
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6. Re: Fantastic Millennium Concours at DCS'06
    Posted by: "Sandor and Heather Piszar" piszar_at_dml_sbcglobal.net sandorp1
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:53 am (PDT)

Knut, thanks to you and all the other judges who devoted their time to making the Concours event a great experience.  Everyone was willing to help and provided insight into how we can do better in the future.  Everyone involved was truly an expert and was willing to share their knowledge.


Sandor
# 3002


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> I have been on the road and didn't have a chance to post earlier.
> 
> I wanted to drop the group a note and tell everyone how impressed I 
> was with the concours. This concours was the biggest Millennium 
> Concours to date, and the cars that competed in the event set a new 
> bar that will be tough to match in the future.




Messages in this topic (2)
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7. Re: Greasiest Hands Award DCS 2006
    Posted by: "Cliff Schmucker" cliff_at_dml_deloreanproject.com cliff_schmucker
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:53 am (PDT)

Actually, Jeremy's hands have been rather greasy for a while....
without his help the week before the show, 3441 would have never made it to DCS 

Cliff

3441 (DCS 2004 "Best Exhaust" & DCS 2006 2nd place 30-40K)
3307 (gonna need a LOT of work)
6147 (EFI conversion)
4523 (Johnny's-X)


On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 12:52:33 -0000, Jeremy wrote:

>I won this award at DCS in chicago last week.  I wanted to publicly 
>thank Dave Bauerle for his help in getting me this award.  I had clutch 
>problems
<snip>





Messages in this topic (2)
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8. Re: Idea for DCS 2008
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:55 am (PDT)

 
In a message dated 6/22/2006 5:34:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, milesperhour79_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

 
 
I like that idea. One main screen show the video of the actual prize,  second 
one can show the ticket number and prize. All you need is a dedicated  typer!





do I have a volunteer here
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (13)
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9. Re: Joe Cool - Photos, Price, and How to order
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:57 am (PDT)

Yea I saw that and I would like to use it in the next raffle car.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
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10. Second chance on Vin plates from Ken
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:58 am (PDT)

I have plenty of plates and making them is no problem 
we had the plates (blanks) at the show but the supplier forgot to ship the  
transfers with the plates that is why I did not make them there.
 
I will have transfers probably this weekend or at the latest early next  week
if you send me a check now before I get a chance to put it on the web store  
I will charge you $10.00 same as the show sale price and include the shipping  
free since I did not have the transfers there (that's free even to Europe)
 
In a few weeks I will have it in the store then it will be $10 plus  shipping
 
I can do Vin or vanity plates up to I think 8 letters.
Vins though will be 5 letters.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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11. Re: Mirrors are sold out!!
    Posted by: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com pjgrady2000
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:58 am (PDT)

FYI we have a couple sets of these in stock that aren't spoken for and
they're on the "right" side of the pond in good old New York.

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.



-----Original Message-----
From:Tom Niemczewski
Subject: [DML] Mirrors are sold out!!

Hello everyone

The Extended Convex DeLorean mirrors are gone as of now. I just received an order for the last two sets.




Messages in this topic (2)
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12. rooms at Gettysburg (not bad)
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:00 am (PDT)

Well so far you guys have signed up for 70 rooms and that translated into  
135 people so far.
Almost half way there to filling up one place.
 
Rooms will actually be split between to two to accommodate King requests  
since that is what most of you have been asking for.  
Obviously the King rooms will be the first to sell out.
 
Remember once the hotel feels we will sell it out I can negotiate for more  
things for you.
We did this in Pigeon Forge and you got breakfast if you remember.
 
So help me help you I really do negotiate down to the penny so you get the  
most for your dollar.
 
You can refund up to 48 hours and as was the case in PR we even had last  
minute cancellations that we took care of at no charge.
 
Ken
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)
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13. Re: Cold FART problem
    Posted by: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com pjgrady2000
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:00 am (PDT)

Hi Wayne,

 

Sounds like you have a dirty fuel filter, possibly from a bad tank of gas,
to me. Try replacing it or at least drain it and inspect the sample for dirt
as it is common for that to cause cold hesitation. BTW what’s a “cold
fart”:) .

 

Rob Grady,

 P.J.Grady Inc.





Messages in this topic (6)
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14. Need a 40+ foot rig
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:00 am (PDT)

As many of you saw what I brought to the show belonged to either me or  
Cliff.  We filled four trailers, 4 trucks and two station wagons.
The gas alone was a lot. 
We have been talking and we would like to find someone that has at  least a 
40' rig we can load and get it all there in at least one truck or two at  the 
most.
 
so if you know of someone with a big rig please let me know
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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15. Re: DCS Registration
    Posted by: "Flavia" frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com frvianna
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:05 am (PDT)

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the feedback. Even though none of the people who wrote to 
me privately mention anything about the print quality of the badges, 
during the show some people were asking me if I could provide a 
higher quality print. So I'll let everyone know why the pre 
registered badges looked better than the ones I printed on the day of 
the show, but the differences were only obvious if you looked closely.
A little background on what happened: Ken looked all over town for 
cards that were that size you saw and he only found those at this 
store that they ONLY sell paper!
We had about 520 of those and I left the house with 511 badges 
printed. There was no way I could go to the store again and buy more, 
so I had to print them on 8.5 x 11 paper. It didn't matter how I set 
the printing quality, it took forever for the ink to dry on regular 
paper, if I set the quality to high it would mess up when we 
laminated, on top of that, I couldn't laminate because as everyone 
probably have seen, I have a cast on! Fortunately, there were 
wonderful volunteers that helped with registration and laminated the 
badges. Even though you couldn't tell after they were laminated, the 
pre registered people had their badges printed on a card. Unless 
someone wanted to include their VIN that they hadn't supplied in 
advance or decided to add a dinner to their badge, I had to print 
them again.
During the whole show, the ink cartridges were fine and I had another 
spare set, so it was just the type of paper used, not the lack of 
ink ;)
Again, register as soon as registration opens and you should have 
your badges printed in advance :)

Flavia

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Although I will send most of my comments off-list, I will post
> a few of the comments on-list, as a sample.
> 
> Overall, I think registration went well, but there are a few
> things that could help make it easier and better in the future.
> 
> I know there were specific reasons to do things the way we did
> at DCS 2006, but I think it would be very helpful to be able to
> have registration in one location for the entire event.
> 
> And, for those who collect convention tags as keepsakes, can
> we get more full ink cartridges to print out people's names on
> the name tags? (LOL) If its not in the budget, we can fill them
> in with a Sharpie before laminating them. (again, maybe just me)
> 
> Later,
> Rich W.




Messages in this topic (4)
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16. Trouble shifting into first gear
    Posted by: "Derek" derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net dgrozio
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:05 am (PDT)

My problem:

Sometimes when I go to shift the car into first it makes a clunk noise and I can feel the 
feedback on the shifter like something is hitting it. It doesn't make any kind of grinding 
noise. I first thought this was the sign of a old plastic clutch line. Went ahead and ordered a 
new master slave and stainless line kit. Replaced the master (which had begun to leak the 
slightest bit in the car) and the stainless line. Held off on the slave as I could only reach it to 
bleed it but not remove and replace. Trouble still occurred. 

Just finished a VOD teardown and also replaced the slave in the process. Bled it thoroughly 
but its still thunking into first on occasion. Clutch is nice and firm. I have also replaced the 
pivot bolt. New transmission oil is going in this weekend. 

What could be causing this?!

-Derek #10084







Messages in this topic (1)
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17. Re: Clunk, clunk, clunk
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:08 am (PDT)

The "best" advice would be to remove the transmission and final drive
and send it to a Delorean vender that can set the pinion for you. It
will require the removal and replacement of the transmission, the
shipping to and from, and the labor to set the carrier. If you can
handle the R & R of the trans it isn't too bad, a whole lot cheaper
than replacing the final drive parts or the transmission! Maybe one of
the venders would do a swap giving you credit on your old one so you
don't have to wait to get your old one back? While you are at it you
may want to consider replacing the clutch too. I don't think a local
shop will be able to do this adjustment correctly, some special tools
are required. Getting a used transmission isn't the best solution, it
may have problems inside that need to be fixed just like yours.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Thank you David,
> Although I would have preferred other news that what you told me,
lol.  This car is my daily driver and has been running flawlessly
since my engine rebuild last year.  I shoulda did more research on
that trans leak before I replaced the O-ring however.





Messages in this topic (4)
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18. Ten Things I Learned On The DCS Road Trip
    Posted by: "bbbigray" bbbigray_at_dml_comcast.net bbbigray
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:18 am (PDT)

Hey.

Yeah, okay, been outa the D loop for a while, ocassionally cruised 
the list here to keep tabs a bit, involvement picking back up since 
DCS.  Life just got busy--good busy, mostly, but busy.  Missed you 
guys.

Anyhoo--geez, what a show!  That was a great weekend, really terrific 
work Ken!  My first one, no less.  (PF got pre-empted by a wedding.  
The rest by a D in resto.)

I learned a few things on the DCS Road Trip...

1)  Yeah, the show's about cars, but I was totally unprepared for how 
social an event it is--think I saw more old acquaintances than 
DeLoreans!  I also think it's Aliens that are secretly sending Fred 
around to check up on me.  :-)

2)  Mr. Murphy's attorney musta been billing overtime.  Hours before 
I left for PR one of my door windows fell off the tracks in the 
door.  Y'know, it's been a very long time since I last tore a 
DeLorean door apart.  Just a nuts and bolts job if you've never done 
it--the upper trim panel comes off in your hands.  Pop the motor and 
move the window till you can get at the nuts on the drive to get it 
loose so you can put it back on track.  Tighten the drive cradle 
while you've got the window out.  BTW, once inside the door, I 
strongly advise stuffing a rag under any little part you take loose 
till it's safely out of the door, cuz if you drop it...

Courtesy of the Mx delay, the midnight departure did wonders for the 
Chicago traffic...

3)  Don't know if I've ever actually been on the ramp from the 
northbound Dan Ryan to the Ike, but at 3 am with zero traffic--whoa!  
Roller coaster for cars!  Reg and Bryan, that stainless steel frame 
of yours is just way sweet in the sweepers.  With a twin turbo to 
plant the rear end--yee-hah.  We almost went back for another go just 
to do it again.

4)  Using de-greaser to clean up the underside before a car show can 
do interesting things to a speedo cable if the plastic weather jacket 
is split.  Under the plastic is thoughtfully provided steel armor, 
but it's wrapped like a spring.  So when you degrease anything near 
it, you'll end up removing some of the lube inside the cable at the 
same time, as the de-greaser leaks through the armor wrap.  Then the 
cable squeaks as the wheel speed changes, and it comes and goes as 
the cable flexes when you turn the wheel.  After Marty Maier (sp?) 
helped me evaluate the situation, we decided it probably had enough 
lube left in it to get home, so I decided to monitor the noise and 
the heat, resolving to pull over and disconnect the speedo if the 
sound changed.  Fortunately it stayed in one piece for the rest of 
the road trip, so I could use my cruise control.  Thank heaven for 
small favors.

Gratitude Note A:  The guy who called my attention to it was on the 
engine build demo team at DCS, and he's wearing a white T-Shirt and 
wire-rim glasses in the pic on the top row of the "Saturday General" 
pictures on Ken's website.  Wish I could remember your name, man.

We took the D for a spin when the building emptied out Saturday to 
sample the Island Turbo, and he noticed the tell-tale intermittent 
squeak.  Thinking it familiar, he puzzled a moment and then hit the 
nail smack on the head--speedo cable.  As the remaining lube worked 
its way back up the tube, the noise went away, but not the heat and 
the wear.  Dude, since it piped down, I might've driven that thing 
till it failed and ate my angle drive--I owe ya one.

BTW, I think I got preoccupied with all the implications of 
disconnecting the cable, no speedo, no cruise control, etc, (Okay, 
I'm spoiled. :) and I don't recall whether I was exactly engaging 
company after that--I do recall being a little distracted 
geographically.  :)+1   Hope I wasn't rude or anything, and I sure do 
appreciate the help--that was a biggie.

Gratitude Note B:  My car won first in my mileage category.  I just 
own it, but the prize for the artwork and craftsmanship that went 
into the restoration of this car belongs to Don Steger and Dan Botkin 
of DeLorean Motor Center, with considerable credit to Reg and Bryan 
Pearce for that drop-dead gorgeous frame, Rob Grady for the 
suspension package and for getting me through twenty-plus years of Mx 
before the resto, and Ron Wester for those way cool carbon-fiber door 
sills that say Twin Turbo--to mention a few.  I can't look at that 
trophy without seeing you guys.  Just so everyone on the DML knows 
the real deal here.

5)  Did you know Beloit, Wisconsin has more than one Dog World?

6)  My kid has been to Europe, but never to Wisconsin till this 
week.  But Dog World?  Dang...closed.

7)  It's easy to miss the turnoff for 20 to Galena cuz the sign is 
hidden under a bridge in Rockford, and you'll end up taking 90 to 
Beloit.

8)  How is it that three and four-year-olds know these cars by name?  
The only name I knew outside of my neighborhood was Zsa Zsa Gabor.

9)  Cleaning a Show Car, Take Two...so you power-wash yer six-
cylinder sweetie and wipe 'er down so she shines real pretty, and 
park 'er in a show fer a coupla days.  Then ya gets in 'er and 
takes 'er for a road trip a coupla hundred clicks or so, and get 'er 
all warmed up like only an open highway can.  Then ya stops fer a 
little Kentucky Fried Buzzard and when ya crank 'er back up, the old 
girl starts missin' like a heathen between Christmas and Easter, 
whaddya do?

Ya call Don Steger on the cell phone, that's what.

So Don says "Ya gotta twelve-millimeter wrench?"  Yup, don't D home 
without it.  Then he says "Turn yer banjo bolts on the fuel distrib a 
quarter turn, one at time, till ya find one that doesn't make the 
engine run funnier.  That's the cylinder that isn't firin.'"  By 
george, right spot on the money that was.  Cool.  Now what?

So Don says "Betcha power-washed that chrome before the show, 
din'ya?  Betcha the high-pressure water got under the spark plug 
boots and it's sittin' in a nice puddle around your plug, and since 
it's capped by the boot, when it gets nice and hot, it doesn't 
evaporate, it just boils and steams in there and shorts out your 
plug.  So pop the plug wire and get the water out of there."  Hm.

So I grab a pair of pliers, cuz I don't have a plug wire puller in 
the car and I hate yankin' on the cables, breaks the conductors and 
all, and I ease the wire out and...Yo, drippin' bigtime!  Now since 
I'm at a gas station with a tire pump, I just blow that spark plug 
cup out with the tire nozzle (they blow real good that way) and shoot 
myself in the face with nice hot plug water.  But hey, the plug is 
drier'n Kansas on Sunday.

So I pulls all the other ones while I'm at it.  Guess what?  Three 
more wet plugs, and I'm guessin' they'd not reached the boiling point 
yet.  Man, if I'd kept drivin' 'er after I first noticed the missing, 
I coulda been clear out in East Egypt when the poor old Six turned 
into a Two and the quit on me right there.  Glad I stopped early.

BTW, I called Don back to tell him things was okay.  I said "Ya know 
that missin' engine?  Well, hey, I found it.  Somebody put it in the 
back!"  Not even my kid thought it was funny.  Hmp.

10)  If ya try to sneak up on Grandpa's house when you're goin' by at 
midnight with a twin-turbo DeLorean with headers and twin cats, and 
ya shut off the lights to be real sneaky...er...can't quite put my 
finger on what I learned in Lesson Number Ten...

--Ray
10693 and Counting

  









Messages in this topic (1)
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19. Under Body to Frame Bolts........
    Posted by: "Mike Bosworth" mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com bozzzydmc
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:19 am (PDT)

Hi

Does anyone have a torque setting for these 12no bolts please.

Regards

Mike
#2001








Messages in this topic (1)
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20. Temperature specs for R-134a
    Posted by: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com cruznmd
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:22 am (PDT)

I've had my A/C overhauled within the last year. The -only- original 
components remaining are the condensor and the compressor. The system 
was upgraded to R-134a.

7 months ago I hung up my radiator on a parking curb so I had to 
evacuate the system so I could remove everything. I've only recently 
bothered to charge it all up again since it's finally warmed up 
outside.

The Workshop manual gives a list of pressure and temperature specs 
that the A/C should operate at if the system is loaded with R-12.

The compressor cycles at the correct pressures at the specified 
ambient air temperatures but the vent outlet temperature should be in 
the high 30's F for R-12 according to the manual. The coldest I can 
get my A/C is 53F. 

Is this about correct for R-134a systems?

Rich A.
#5335









Messages in this topic (1)
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21. Re: www.delorean.ie has been updated!
    Posted by: "John Dore" dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com dmcjohn
    Date: Fri Jun 23, 2006 9:26 am (PDT)

Hi Todd,

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

The sandblasting cost me 450 Euros, but I had a lot of the external 
epoxy already stripped with the heat gun and nitromors paint 
strippers. The nitromors is cheap at about 7 Euros for a tin. Heat 
gun cost about 20 Euros.

I did most of the labour myself in cutting out the rusted metal - all 
you need is an angle grinder and a 1mm cutting disk. So I saved money 
here by not having to pay someone do this for me. I also saved a lot 
of labour fees by dismantling the car myself with my brother, and 
rebuilding it with him, my Dad, and some good friends. I'm sure it 
would be an expensive job to pay one of the DeLorean repair shops to 
do all this work for you!

The new metal which was welded into the frame (including getting some 
pieces of metal folded to different shapes) cost about 200 Euro.

The welding cost me 250 Euros. This included fabricating the panel 
under the steering mounts, fabricating the "u shaped" bracket inside 
the front cross member, welding all the new plates into the frame, 
fabricating and welding in the boxing plates for the upper and lower 
control arms, and also included pressing out all my old suspension 
bushings and lower ball joints, and pressing in the new polyurethane 
bushings and new lower ball joints. 

New parts such as all new polyurethane bushings, ball joints, 
steering shaft, brake pads, caliper and master cylinder rebuild kits, 
rear shocks, and a few other pieces cost probably 1500 or more. I'd 
need to check... Galvanising itself cost 100 Euro.

So, the frame restoration alone cost 100 for galvanising, 450 for 
sandblasting, 200 for metal and 250 for welding. Total cost = 1000 
Euros or 1200 US dollars.

I think overall, I did the restoration from start to finish for about 
2600 Euros (3260 US Dollars). I looked into the cost of the stainless 
frame, but by the time it would be shipped to my door, and all import 
charges paid for, it was costing just about 15,000 US Dollars!!! I 
could buy a whole DeLorean for that amount of money, so it is 
definitely not worth buying the stainless frame for anyone in Europe 
in my opinion.

The galvanising is just as good a job as the stainless steel frame, 
provided that it is galvanised properly. To galvanise properly, the 
most important thing is that there is absolutely no paint left on the 
frame, inside or out, before galvanising.

Ed Uding in the Netherlands has the best system I've seen for 
stripping the epoxy from DeLorean frames. He puts them in a vacuum 
furnace at 450 degrees, and the paint turns to black dust, and falls 
off the frame.

We don't have this facility in Ireland unfortunately, which is why I 
chose to sandblast (and cut openings in the frame to allow 
sandblasting inside). I'm sure the facility that Ed uses is available 
in the USA however....

I can't stress enough how crazy it is to follow the advice that is 
sometimes given that "there is no need to strip the epoxy - it will 
burn off during galvanising". This is absolute rubbish, and in my 
opinion will significantly increase your chances of warping your 
frame, due to the much longer submersion required to burn the epoxy. 
A frame that is galvanised like this will rust again, no doubt about 
it. It is also a very dangerous method for the workers in the 
galvanising factory, as the frame with epoxy on it will not sink 
fully into the molten zinc, but will float, requiring it to be 
manually pushed under the surface using a metal bar or something 
similar.

Anyway, if done correctly, galvanising is definitely the best 
solution for our frames. They do not warp during the process, even 
frames with significant repairs done to them before galvanising. 
Galvanising will last 100 years or more, at a fraction of the cost of 
the stainless steel frame.

You also mentioned stripping the frame, and just powdercoating it. 
Personally, after researching powdercoating, galvanising, and every 
other method out there, I would not just powdercoat the frame. 
Powdercoating will chip and scratch just like the original coating, 
and will allow rust to travel underneath it again. To go to the 
effort of stripping your car to that extent, then have it begin to 
rust again after a few years is a bit mad in my opinion.

Up until now, the main reason people have been put off galvanising a 
DeLorean frame is fear of it warping. I think that rumour can be 
safely put to bed now. Plenty of DeLorean frames have been 
successfully galvanised in Europe with absolutely no warpage. On my 
own frame, I measured from the hole at the top of the front left 
shock tower to the hole at the top of the rear right shock tower, and 
compared this measurement to the one taken from the front right to 
rear left shock towers. The measurement was exactly the same (to the 
milimeter) after galvanising. A few other measurements confirmed that 
the frame did not warp at all during galvanising.

The other thing about the stainless frame that I just realised the 
other day, is that the stainless steel frame loses out on a lot of 
the design detail features of the original frame. For example, the 
front frame extension in the stainless frame appears to be missing 
the edge strip on the top and bottom plates (in the center of the 
frame extension). Its hard to explain, but take a look at the 
pictures of the stainless frame on the website 
http://www.deloreancarshow.com and then compare them to the pictures 
of the front of my frame, and you will see what I mean.

There are other areas on the stainless steel frame where again, 
design features are lost, such as the plate under the engine cross 
member with the ribs stamped into it. Or, the pressed holes on the 
bottom of the front frame extension, through which you bolt on your 
steering rack, are now just flat holes. Basically, it seems anywhere 
where there was once a stamped design, it has been replaced by laser 
cut flat pieces. I know that you can argue that these little 
features "are not needed", and that the frame is strong enough 
without them...

In my opinion, it doesn't take much effort to keep these little 
design features, especially for a such a high price tag, and its nice 
to keep the frame looking as original as possible.

My advice is to galvanise your frame, and spend your savings of 9 or 
10 thousand dollars on other areas of your car, or even buy yourself 
another restoration project DeLorean! You'll have a chassis every bit 
as rustproof as a stainless steel frame, while keeping the original 
look of the DeLorean frame. You can even powdercoat the galvanised 
chassis back to grey to really have it look original. If you're 
thinking that the stainless frame has the additional benefit of extra 
strength over the original frame, you can always do as I did, and 
weld in thicker than original metal in key areas.

Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,

John Dore, Ireland.

http://www.delorean.ie



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> John:
> The restoration looks great, it's good to know there will be at 
least a few DeLorean's on the road for many years to come.  If you don't mind me asking, how much did all of this cost!? 





Messages in this topic (3)
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