From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 6:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3303

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: rooms at Gettysburg (not bad)
From: Jeff Angwin


2a. Re: No Start
From: Chris Shepherd

2b. Re: No Start
From: John Hervey

2c. Re: No Start
From: Lacy


3. A/C cutting out
From: Ryan Wright


4. Re: DCS Registration
From: Peter Lucas


5a. Re: Need a 40+ foot rig
From: Lawrence Lormand

5b. Re: Need a 40+ foot rig
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


6. Re: Vixen Motor Homes
From: Marc Levy


7a. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
From: at88mph

7b. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
From: Harold McElraft

7c. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
From: rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com


8a. Optima Batteries?
From: Dave Stragand

8b. Re: Optima Batteries?
From: rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com

8c. Re: Optima Batteries?
From: K.L. (KAYO) Ong


9a. Re: Stainless Frame Features
From: Bryan Pearce

9b. Re: Stainless Frame Features
From: Tom Niemczewski

9c. Re: Stainless Frame Features
From: Videobob Moseley

9d. Re: Stainless Frame Features
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd


10. Brake Pads - Compatble
From: Mitchell Tyner


11a. DCS 08 Rooms going quick?
From: Erik Geerdink

11b. Re: DCS 08 Rooms going quick?
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com


12. John's Cool Radiator
From: Byrne Heninger


13. Re: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
From: Marv Hein


14. Re: Cold FART problem
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com



Messages

1. Re: rooms at Gettysburg (not bad)
Posted by: "Jeff Angwin" jeff_at_dml_delorean.com jangwin
Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:34 am (PDT)

I just phoned in my Gettysburg hotel reservation, and got the last King non-smoking room. Wow! they went fast!
The reservationist that I talked to was really surprised that so many of us were reserving rooms for this event, two years away!

Hey folks, let's help Ken out and get those reservations in!

---Jeff---
VIN 3034


Cliff Schmucker wrote:
>
>
> I just booked my rooms for DCS 2008, and as of a few minutes ago there is only one King poolside non-smoking room left!
> seriously, book your room NOW - they will not charge anything on your
> card until June 2008, and you can cancel up to 48 hours ahead of time
> - this is a no-brainer
>
> and, reserving rooms early and fast gives Ken a lot of negotiating
> power to get extras for us
>




Messages in this topic (4)

2a. Re: No Start
Posted by: "Chris Shepherd" chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com chrisau79
Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:34 am (PDT)

Check all the plugs under the panel behind the drivers seat. Make sure they are seated well.

heylacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote: Hi, Fuel pump runs when jumped at 30-87. But engine won't start. Good
rpm relay. Good voltage at resisters. Plenty of gas. Changed out coil.
Now once in a while it will start right up as if nothing is wrong and runs like new. Lately it just does't start. Any help in what to look into next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (9)

2b. Re: No Start
Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:37 am (PDT)

Does it have the problem hot or cold. You said the voltage was good?? What is the voltage when cranking at the lower right of the resistor.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of heylacy
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 12:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] No Start

Hi, Fuel pump runs when jumped at 30-87. But engine won't start. Good rpm relay. Good voltage at resisters. Plenty of gas. Changed out coil. 
Now once in a while it will start right up as if nothing is wrong and runs like new. Lately it just does't start. Any help in what to look into next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks






Messages in this topic (9)
________________________________________________________________________

2c. Re: No Start
    Posted by: "Lacy" heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com heylacy
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:35 pm (PDT)

Hi, Thanks for all the input. I went out to try and  check spark again and it started right up and ran like new. I guess I have to wait til it won.t start again to check other things, Thanks again,  bob



John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote: 
  Does it have the problem hot or cold. You said the voltage was good?? What is the voltage when cranking at the lower right of the resistor. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





Messages in this topic (9)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

3. A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:35 am (PDT)

My A/C simply cuts out sometimes when driving. The air will blow nice and cold, then at random will slowly get warm. It eventually kicks back in and cools down again, sometimes after 30 seconds, sometimes after 5 minutes. Driving doesn't affect it - I can be at idle or at speed the entire time.

I suspect one of the pressure switches is kicking the compressor off when it shouldn't; all fans (interior blower & cooling fans) are working fine. I'm running R12 and the system is full per DMC specs.
A/C shop looked at it but the problem is intermittant and they're having trouble diagnosing it, as every time I bring it in the darn thing works fine.

Any advice on how I might troubleshoot this?

-Ryan




Messages in this topic (1)
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4. Re: DCS Registration
    Posted by: "Peter Lucas" lucas_at_dml_Maya.com lucasxyzzy
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:35 am (PDT)

BTW:  for anyone adverse to quaint old fashioned  analog communications, although the Eisenhower Hotel  doesn't have true online reservations, they do have an email form on their website, and it works great for DCS registration. There is a place for notes where you can let them know that it is for DCS.  They were very prompt and courteous in responding, and I got a confirmation email from them in no time.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

5a. Re: Need a 40+ foot rig
    Posted by: "Lawrence Lormand" lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net vin00538
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:36 am (PDT)

Get a semi or rent it, I can drive it & help fill it for you. I have my CDL.
Lawrence

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> As many of you saw what I brought to the show belonged to either
me or  
> Cliff.  We filled four trailers, 4 trucks and two station wagons.
> The gas alone was a lot. 
> We have been talking and we would like to find someone that has
at  least a 
> 40' rig we can load and get it all there in at least one truck or
two at  the 
> most.
>  
> so if you know of someone with a big rig please let me know
>  
> Ken
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>









Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

5b. Re: Need a 40+ foot rig
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:45 am (PDT)

I really may have to do that
the show is too big for me to haul all that stuff last few shows I have had to stage stuff and I have to go back to Chicago  to pick up the rest of the stuff I left there because of no room Glad Dave has a place for it
 
Ken


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Messages in this topic (3)
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________________________________________________________________________

6. Re: Vixen Motor Homes
    Posted by: "Marc Levy" malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com malevy_nj
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:36 am (PDT)

I thought so too, but based on the web site sent out earlier, most of the Vixen motor homes were Diesel. 
The gasoline version used an American power plant.

The site may be wrong...  But I only asked because it would be nice to find a "drop in" 4 speed automatic for our DeLoreans.


--- Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
wrote:

> I believe the gasoline-powered version used the same
> PRV/UN1 combo as
> our cars.
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7a. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
    Posted by: "at88mph" at88mph_at_dml_comcast.net at88mph_1999
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:38 am (PDT)

Everyone,

Thanks again for the advice! I installed a hot water valve on the car and that dropped the temp down, however, the main vacuum actuator (guessing pn 109128) that opens the main center vents broke! I can't believe my run of bad luck with trying to get the a/c repaired!  I called Houston and they said they don't carry them.  I was wondering if anyone knew of a cross reference part number for this piece?  


Thanks yet once again!


Duke




Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

7b. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
    Posted by: "Harold McElraft" hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com hmcelraft
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:29 pm (PDT)

I think the part you want is 101752. DMCH has that part.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Everyone,
> 
> Thanks again for the advice! I installed a hot water valve on the 
car and that dropped the temp down, however, the main vacuum 
actuator (guessing pn 109128) that opens the main center vents 
broke! I can't believe my run of bad luck with trying to get the a/c 
repaired!  I called Houston and they said they don't carry them.  I 
was wondering if anyone knew of a cross reference part number for 
this piece?  
> 
> 
> Thanks yet once again!
> 
> 
> Duke
>









Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________

7c. Re: Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water
    Posted by: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com pjgrady2000
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:33 pm (PDT)

Duke,

 

Sorry that I don’t know of a cross reference but we do have some available.
E-mail us off-list if you still want one.

 
Thank you,
Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc. 
   _____  

From: at88mph
Subject: Re: [DML] Vacuum actuator cross ref? (was Question about a/c and hot water valve)

Thanks again for the advice! I installed a hot water valve on the car and that dropped the temp down, however, the main vacuum actuator (guessing pn 109128) that opens the main center vents broke! I can't believe my run of bad luck with trying to get the a/c repaired! I called Houston and they said they don't carry them. I was wondering if anyone knew of a cross reference part number for this piece? 





Messages in this topic (3)
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________________________________________________________________________

8a. Optima Batteries?
    Posted by: "Dave Stragand" dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net phaedrys
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:38 am (PDT)

Hi All,

 

I know a lot of us use Optima batteries in our cars, but I'm on my third
one in two years.

 

The guy at the parts counter at Advance told me he gets a lot of them
back that are only a year to a year and a half old.  Have others
experienced the same issues with these batteries?

 

Thanks,

 

-Dave Stragand

VIN #05927



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (3)
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8b. Re: Optima Batteries?
    Posted by: "rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com" rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com pjgrady2000
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:27 pm (PDT)

Hi Dave,

 

In one word….YES.  IMHO, and to put it as politely as possible, Optima
batteries suck! When we experienced the same problems as you (about five or
so years ago) I was told by one of their engineers that the batteries needed
to be charged (at 100AMPS !!!!) for a few hours! They sent me a euro-spec
charger from the factory  and I bought a 120V converter. After making sure
our business insurance was up to date I plugged the whole mess into an
outlet and waited to see what would happen. After twenty minutes the battery
started to smoke like it was going to explode. So ended my affiliation, and
any recommendation I could make, with Optima batteries. They are great until
the first time they lose their charge and then BUYER BEWARE!

 

Rob Grady,

 

P.J.Grady Inc.

 

   _____  

From:Dave Stragand
Subject: [DML] Optima Batteries?

I know a lot of us use Optima batteries in our cars, but I'm on my third one in two years.
The guy at the parts counter at Advance told me he gets a lot of them
back that are only a year to a year and a half old. Have others
experienced the same issues with these batteries?





Messages in this topic (3)
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8c. Re: Optima Batteries?
    Posted by: "K.L. (KAYO) Ong" klo_at_dml_cidio.net kayo_ong
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:31 pm (PDT)

Dave:

Yes I had the same problems with Optima batteries.  I had both a  
"Red" and "Yellow" label.  They are fine batteries with plenty of  
power until they fail.  They are stronger then the typical batteries  
offered on the market.  BTW.... before the Optima batteries, I had  
three "Delco 60 months" rated and they failed too.

My first "Red" top was purchased from Rob at PJ Grady when he was  
selling the Optima line.  Some two years later, the "Red" developed  
one dead cell, which render the whole battery useless for it wouldn't  
kick the engine over with only 10 volts output.  I had informed Rob  
about the battery as to obtain a replacement and only to find out  
that he dropped the Optima line, for the Optima’s returns on  
defective batteries and the pro rating policies was a pain for Rob to  
continue selling the Optima Line to serve his customers.

Anyway, I then went to a local automotive audio store and purchased a  
"Yellow" top Optima.  A year and a half later, the Yellow battery  
failed too.  Since the failure yellow Optima had failed during the  
week of my birthday.  My nephew and friends had all chipped in to buy  
me the top of the line Sears battery as a surprise birthday gift.  I  
personally never have thought much of the Sear's line of batteries,  
but since it was a gift I accepted it and I have enjoyed every second  
of it for the last thirty months.  This Sears battery have lasted  
longer then all of the other batteries that had been in my DeLorean.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic  9D NY






Messages in this topic (3)
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9a. Re: Stainless Frame Features
    Posted by: "Bryan Pearce" bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com pdc_permaframe
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:42 am (PDT)

Hello All:

Great to meet a bunch of you at DCS 2006!

I feel compelled to respond to, what seems to be, an attack on our  
Stainless Steel frame solution for the DeLorean and the effort that  
was required to make this product available to the DeLorean  
community.  While I applaud the effort put forth by John Dore on his  
restoration, I am offended by his comments.  John fails to realize  
the amount of time and effort required to build a stainless steel  
frame for our cars.

Three paragraphs from John's posting talk about loss of design  
features in the Stainless Steel frame.  John states that "In my  
opinion, it doesn't take much effort to keep these little design  
features...".  Let me be very clear that John's opinion in this  
matter reflects his lack of understanding for the fabrication  
process.  John should have realized what he was saying when typing  
the words "stamped design".  If it were our desire to produce the  
stainless frames using a stamped design, at the quantities we are  
producing, the cost per frame would easily exceed $90,000 per frame.   
If we were producing thousands of frames, the cost would be more  
reasonable.

John's second attack on the stainless frames is that you really don't  
need the stainless frame to get the added benefit of strength.  While  
I agree that you can weld in thicker than original material in key  
areas, this is not a complete solution.

I usually don't post commercials to the DML, but in this situation, I  
believe it is warranted.  The improvements of the PDC Stainless Frame  
are:

1.  Stronger overall design using thicker material for construction.   
This results in a frame with much less flex than the original.   
Drivers comments comparing the stock DeLorean frame to the stainless  
steel frame are like comparing night and day.  You can really drive  
the car like a sports car.  One driver commented that the DeLorean  
with the Stainless Frame handled as good or better than his current  
model BMW.

2.  The front crumple tube is removable for easy replacement in the  
event of damage.

3.  The inner diameter of the front shock towers have been made  
slightly wider to eliminate spring noise.

4.  The center section has been engineered to allow for changing a  
frame from a manual transmission to an automatic or an automatic to a  
manual.

5.  The new trailing arm mounting system eliminates forever the  
problem with broken trailing arm bolts and lost spacers.

6.  The rear of the frame is a bolt on section which can be removed  
to allow easier servicing or removal of the engine.

As a a final note, it is important to mention that John's financial  
account of the amount of money required for the "galvanizing  
approach" is lacking some serious analysis.  John's posting would  
lead you to believe that complete frame repair and galvanizing cost  
only $1,200 US.  In order for this to be true, you would have to  
assume that the tools and supplies he used did not have any cost.   
Further, you would have to assume that John's or your time and  
expertise is worth NOTHING.  I know a significant amount of time was  
spent on this frame restoration.  If you lack the ability to perform  
this work yourself, you will have to pay someone to do it.  The big  
problem with this approach is that you have no idea, up front, what  
each individual frame will require.

In 1992 I researched the options available for my DeLorean with a  
seriously rusted out frame.  The stainless steel option was and  
remains the best choice.  While it sounds as if John's frame turned  
out just fine, I am aware of other galvanizing projects that did not  
have a positive outcome.

Last Fall I worked with John to determine shipping and other costs to  
get a Stainless Frame sent to him.  I felt that we had positive  
interaction so I am confused about this attack on my product and the  
effort to produce it.

-- 
===============================================
Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components
2N629 Jefferson St.
West Chicago, IL  60185
Phone:   (630) 293-0945
Fax:     (630) 293-0944

DeLorean Part Fabrication
===============================================


On Jun 23, 2006, at 7:11 AM, John Dore wrote:

> The other thing about the stainless frame that I just realised the
> other day, is that the stainless steel frame loses out on a lot of
> the design detail features of the original frame. For example, the
> front frame extension in the stainless frame appears to be missing
> the edge strip on the top and bottom plates (in the center of the
> frame extension). Its hard to explain, but take a look at the
> pictures of the stainless frame on the website
> http://www.deloreancarshow.com and then compare them to the pictures
> of the front of my frame, and you will see what I mean.
>
> There are other areas on the stainless steel frame where again,
> design features are lost, such as the plate under the engine cross
> member with the ribs stamped into it. Or, the pressed holes on the
> bottom of the front frame extension, through which you bolt on your
> steering rack, are now just flat holes. Basically, it seems anywhere
> where there was once a stamped design, it has been replaced by laser
> cut flat pieces. I know that you can argue that these little
> features "are not needed", and that the frame is strong enough
> without them...
>
> In my opinion, it doesn't take much effort to keep these little
> design features, especially for a such a high price tag, and its nice
> to keep the frame looking as original as possible.

> If you're
> thinking that the stainless frame has the additional benefit of extra
> strength over the original frame, you can always do as I did, and
> weld in thicker than original metal in key areas.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

9b. Re: Stainless Frame Features
    Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:26 pm (PDT)

Hello all

Since the topic of design features was brought up I have to ask about the 
quality. Brian, did the quality of the welds improve recently? I had a 
chance to see one of your frames in Memphis in 2002 and then another one 
bought from you some time after that show and I have to say that the quality 
of the welds on those two frames was terrible to say the least. I'm not 
trying to offend anyone but by looking at those two frames I was under the 
impression that whoever did it had absolutely no experience in welding 
stainless steel. I personally would not feel safe driving a car with such 
poorly welded frame. A professional welder said, after looking at one of 
your frames, that the only way to fix it would be to just grind all the 
welds off and start over...
For the price I would expect a lot more...
Your front lower control arms on the other hand are a thing of beauty and 
the welds are top notch. Why isn't the frame even close to that?
I even took some pictures of the welds on the frame that was in Memphis, it 
was scary
I hope you have this issue resolved now. A frame falling apart from bad 
welds would be really bad... Let's just hope it never happens.

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 52°25'17.30"N 21° 1'58.00"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com





----- Original Message ----- 
> I feel compelled to respond to, what seems to be, an attack on our
> Stainless Steel frame solution for the DeLorean and the effort that
> was required to make this product available to the DeLorean
> community. 





Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

9c. Re: Stainless Frame Features
    Posted by: "Videobob Moseley" videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com videobob11
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:31 pm (PDT)

Bryan,
I interviewed you (twice) about the frames and I think they are great!
I think if not for the cost, everyone would get one if they could.
I think some of the improvements you made were excellent.

There was only two thoughts I wanted to add in.
One, I think the optional front arms should be standard on the frame.
It doesn't make much sense to have everything but the front suspension
be stainless.....

The other was about the front crumple tubes.
I have to assume that you haven't crash tested any of these,
and being that your tubes are made of thicker stronger metal I am
betting that rather than "crumple" like the weaker welded on versions
that they would shear the bolt heads off, or tear at the mountings or
worse do nothing it at all and compress the frame to bend at another
weaker spot.
I suppose this isn't really an issue because the type of head on crash
needed to do that would mostly likely kill you anyway....
I was just wondering if you had put much thought into that at all?
Should front tubes be made of a thinner material to allow easier crushing?

I have wrecked my car before, slamming into a car at about 30 MPH.
The frame and steering was untouched, but the front fiberglass was
broken up pretty bad. (I felt nothing by the way, no injury at all)

Here are some photos from 01/24/04 - http://dfwdmc.com/wreck.html
We repaired everything to like new in the end.

Not trying to pile on you and make things worse, but I figure if you
are in the mood to defend your frame this is a good time to ask the 
question.
All in all, I hope I can afford to get one of your frames for my next 
DeLorean
project car as I plan to put in a different engine and modernize the car 
quite
a bit. With a stainless frame, and the added features of the car, you would 
truly
have a car that could last forever.....

- Videobob

>From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
>Subject: [DML] Re: Stainless Frame Features
>
>I feel compelled to respond to, what seems to be, an attack on our
>Stainless Steel frame solution for the DeLorean and the effort that
>was required to make this product available to the DeLorean
>community.  While I applaud the effort put forth by John Dore on his
>restoration, I am offended by his comments.  John fails to realize
>the amount of time and effort required to build a stainless steel
>frame for our cars.





Messages in this topic (7)
________________________________________________________________________

9d. Re: Stainless Frame Features
    Posted by: "Martin Gutkowski - DMC Ltd" martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk heavenrest
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:39 pm (PDT)

Hi All

My tuppenceworth to follow :-)

1) I worked on the Explodaview car over the space of several weeks and 
saw the quality of the galvanising and powder coating firsthand. In the 
case of that car, the frame was fine to begin with, just the usual flaky 
patches and surface rust. It was hot-dip galvanised locally to me and 
the process resulted in the epoxy coming off. The only part to warp was 
the fuel tank flap. I know little of the galvanising process but John 
clearly did his research. The Explodaview frame was given a 100 year 
rust-free guarantee. However some spots did appear along some of the 
tight seams where air may well have been trapped during the galvanising 
process. These were extremely small. All the captive nuts required 
re-tapping afterwards too.

2) Lotus galvanised all the Esprit chassis (chassises???). They have a 
far higher level of rust problems than the DeLorean after 25 years. 
Lotus used the epoxy method on the baby Elan. If you think galvanising 
is as bullet proof as epoxy or powder coating, think again. It's very 
hard but can still scratch and is thinner. "powder coating" covers a 
range if plastics too, and I've seen some phenominal nylon coatings that 
you could fire a shotgun at and watch it bounce off (okay, probably 
slight exaggeration there!)

3) I had the pleasure of visiting Bryan's home and seeing the frames in 
production. While they are obviously hand made, the attention to detail 
is intricate. Some modifications were necessary to cover the different 
approaches between mass production and hand craftsmanship. It was 
pointed out to me how the original frames were spot welded, and the 
stainless frames are seam welded. They are much stronger and as has been 
stated, far more servicable and will last a lifetime, and IMO worth 
every penny. My only beef is the move away from metric fastners......

4) IMO the stainless frame will add value to the car and so is a 
potentially worthy investment, although perhaps only to someone who 
drives their car every day and the frame has rotted, or to someone who 
has bought a cheap car because it has a rotten chassis. Then again, most 
cars treated as "garage jewellery" do not have problems with frame rust 
anyway!

I am personally "on the fence" on this one. I have no real problem with 
either approach, and I don't think John does either other than cost. One 
day, if I still have my DeLorean when the frame falls apart, I'd like to 
have a stainless frame, but I fear their production run will be all too 
limited compared to the lifetime of most of the original frames. I 
reckon 25 years from now, when we start to get frame problems in a 
larger proportion, I sincerely hope Bryan and his Dad are still making 
them otherwise suddenly they will become very valuable and sought after.

Martin
DMCL
www.delorean.co.uk

Bryan Pearce wrote:

> Hello All:
>
> Great to meet a bunch of you at DCS 2006!
>
> I feel compelled to respond to, what seems to be, an attack on our
> Stainless Steel frame solution for the DeLorean and the effort that
> was required to make this product available to the DeLorean
> community. While I applaud the effort put forth by John Dore on his
> restoration, I am offended by his comments. John fails to realize
> the amount of time and effort required to build a stainless steel
> frame for our cars.
>



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Messages in this topic (7)
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10. Brake Pads - Compatble
    Posted by: "Mitchell Tyner" mtyner_at_dml_tynerlawfirm.com litigator_97
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:44 am (PDT)

Anyone know of compatible brake pads for the front and rear brakes?
None of our local parts stores have the Delorean pads, but there are
bound to be some others that will fit.


Thank you,
Mitch 





Messages in this topic (1)
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11a. DCS 08 Rooms going quick?
    Posted by: "Erik Geerdink" dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com dmcerik
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:44 am (PDT)

We just reserved 3 rooms for the next show.  Since its in Gettysburg, the "Geerdinks" are thinking about making a family vacation out of it.  Me, my wife, kid (should be just one....), brother, sister (husband), neices, grandma, grandpa.  The good thing about that is it now doesn't matter if its on Fathers Day, we'll all be there.  Our family loves history, and with this show being so closes to DC, Philly (i know, still a drive,,,but closer than Michigan!), and so much more, this would be a great opportunity to take a family vacation.  Plus, if we decide we don't want to do this, we can cancel the rooms anytime and pay nothing.  
  So, Ken....check three more rooms off your list.  When we called that hotel said these rooms sure are going fast!  I guess the Delorean community got the hint....RESERVE EARLY!!!!
   
  Erik
  04512

 		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

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Messages in this topic (5)
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11b. Re: DCS 08 Rooms going quick?
    Posted by: "lordshill_at_dml_aol.com" lordshill_at_dml_aol.com lordshill1
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:25 pm (PDT)

Ken.. Check off 2 more..I reserved them last night.
 
Roy
0893


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Messages in this topic (5)
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12. John's Cool Radiator
    Posted by: "Byrne Heninger" heningerandassoc_at_dml_earthlink.net churchishis
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:45 am (PDT)



HOW  DO  YOU  SPELL  "COOL"

Special T Auto 
Upgraded Radiator
VS.
DeLorean OEM

18% more water cooling vein surface area
Plus
33% more air flow between veins.



    That is good engineering design,John.

Our compliments:  www.heningerandassociates.com 


Byrne Heninger
heningerandassoc_at_dml_earthlink.net

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Messages in this topic (1)
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13. Re: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
    Posted by: "Marv Hein" marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com marvhein
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:36 pm (PDT)

Not sure I know what a vertical cross section drawing is. :)  

JZD got one or more patents on the DMC-12's doors.  If your needs 
are general, you might get lucky examining the figures associated 
with those patents at uspto.gov.  The Patent Office has a search 
engine that will help you find the patents. The search string you 
need would be "an/delorean". 

Once the text version of the patent is presented, click on the "view 
images" button. (You will need a tiff viewer plug-in for your 
browser.)  An alternate approach to viewing is to use the patent 
number(s) found at the USPTO on freepatentfetcher.com, where you can 
download a limited number of PDF versions of patents for free.

Even if the drawings are not what you need, you and others might 
find viewing the patents interesting. The is a design patent for the 
body, one for the wheels, etc. 

Marv
#10820
AZ-D


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a verticle cross section drawing of a door?
> 
> Bob
>










Messages in this topic (5)
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14. Re: Cold FART problem
    Posted by: "deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com" deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com waernstnj
    Date: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:38 pm (PDT)

 
In a message dated 6/23/2006 12:01:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com writes:

Sounds  like you have a dirty fuel filter, possibly from a bad tank of gas,
to me.  Try replacing it or at least drain it and inspect the sample for dirt
as it  is common for that to cause cold hesitation. BTW what's a "cold fart" >>


Some people have a "cold start" or "hot start" problem. Mine starts fine  
cold. And even better when hot. But a minute after it starts, (right about when  
the idle speed regulator finishes doing its thing... and it is working, I  
checked...) it starts to fart around, stumbling, losing power, backfiring. When  
I take my foot off the gas, it smooths out for a few seconds, then farts around 
 again.   Acts flooded, I guess. Two or three minutes later, it  straightens 
out, often abruptly enough to snap my head back from the  acceleration.   I 
replaced the fuel filter in December. Also the  warm up regulator and thermotime 
switch. David Teitelbaum
mentioned the  frequency switch. I checked, and I notice that I don't hear it 
buzzing in either  accessory position when I turn the key. I don't hear it 
when it's running,  either. I did hear it for about three seconds after the 
engine stalled out.  Seems to me I used to hear it when the engine was running, or 
for a few  seconds when the key was turned. If it died, would it cause this? 
David  suggested I check the fuses and lambda relay. How do I check the relay? 
I have a  fuse tester. (The lambda probe is only about 4 thousand miles old.) 
 
 
Wayne A.  Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


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Messages in this topic (7)
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