From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 7:46 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3307

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1a. Re: Replacing door weatherstripping
From: conundrum1984

1b. Re: Replacing door weatherstripping
From: L. Sandel


2a. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
From: Todd Nelson

2b. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
From: Elvis

2c. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


3. Robert Rooney?
From: erikgeerdink


4a. Re: Optima Batteries?
From: Dave Swingle

4b. Re: Optima Batteries?
From: Ryan Wright


5a. Battteries, etc.
From: Alan Roberts

5b. Re: Battteries, etc.
From: John Hervey


6. Re: Putsch Performance
From: Dave Swingle


7. Electric car (was: Optima Batteries?)
From: Ryan Wright


8a. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
From: cupsdmc

8b. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
From: cupsdmc

8c. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
From: cupsdmc


9. Re: Coil spring question
From: David Teitelbaum


10. Re: Stainless Frame Features
From: cbl1739


11a. Re: A/C cutting out
From: Ryan Wright

11b. Re: A/C cutting out
From: John Hervey


12. Rooms at Gettysburg by Ken
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


13. Re: DCS judging of cars
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


14a. Full size glass - was: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
From: Tom Tait

14b. Re: Full size glass - was: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
From: Bob Brandys


15. Replica
From: gbsdelorean


16. Shifter knob
From: Tom Watkins



Messages

1a. Re: Replacing door weatherstripping
Posted by: "conundrum1984" jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com conundrum1984
Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:30 pm (PDT)

I know my inner door weatherstripping is at least 10 years old. They are ripped in some places. Also, whoever installed them last put them on wrong to begin with. Who would have just plain weatherstripping?
DMCH? PJ Grady? Special T Auto? I see it listed on all of their sites, but doesn't really say if it's the thick kind or not.

Thanks,
Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...>
wrote:
>
> Clean the spot on the doors that the seal rubs against with alcohol.
> Spray some silicone lubricant on a rag and wipe it onto the door
> seals. Thicker seals won't necessaraly help. They are for cars that
> have a large gap when the doors are closed. Most cars are fine with
> the standard size seal. Do not try to compensate for old, dead door
> seals by adjusting the doors to close tighter. Replace the seals if
> they are over 10 years old. When the rubber gets old it gets "sticky"
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757








Messages in this topic (6)

1b. Re: Replacing door weatherstripping
Posted by: "L. Sandel" ls_at_dml_chickencow.csv.cmich.edu ja307020x
Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:33 pm (PDT)

> stripping not there. My doors seem to get stuck on the inner door
> weatherstripping though. Someone mentioned that Grady's kit was
> thicker to make a good seal. For some reason I think thicker would

I had this same problem until just a few weeks ago.

What I did was:

1. Identify the trouble areas - usually by the windshield & rear headliner / door strut area. You've just gotta open and close the door, watching things to see what catches and what doesn't.

2. Where it was catching, I removed the seal and used a set of pliers to bend the outer part of the metal channel away from the mounting lip.
Instead of being a "C" shape, it was more of a... "V" I guess ;) So now,
the seal's "C" channel doesn't grip the lip anymore, but you can rotate the seal bulb away from the spot that it's catching. You may want to wrap some tape around the grips on the pliers so as not to damage the seal.

3. I reseated the seal, and either with a thin piece of wood, my fingers, or a screwdriver, pushed & held along the outer "C" channel edge to hold the seal in it's new, futher away from the door opening position.

4. Using a soft mallet, I tapped the inner edge of the seal so it would close the "C" and grip the seal mounting lip.

Because things will pull & stretch as you go, you may have to work your way back & forth a little bit.

The seals used to grab so bad they'd almost jam the passenger side door.
Within an hour, I had both doors opening & closing "like butta".

-Luke & 10270







Messages in this topic (6)

2a. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
Posted by: "Todd Nelson" tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu todddmc12
Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:31 pm (PDT)

Derek:

You're right, the switch is grounded through the threads to the water pump, take the tape off, the sealing ring should be enough to keep it from leaking. You can put a continuity tester between one of the leads on the switch and a ground point and if the engine is colder than 95 degrees it will show continuity. I can't say which lead is the ground one, they both look the same, the other is from the starter solenoid to prevent flooding.
Current from the starter solenoid during cranking heats a bimetallic arm in the switch to break the ground connection, thus disabling the cold start valve. Take a look at the technical manual for a schematic of how the switch functions, it's pretty simple.

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message -----
From: "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 11:41 PM
Subject: [DML] How does the thermotime switch work?


>I recently did a valley of death teardown and now the car seems to have 
>problems starting
> when cold. The only thing I really touched thats involved in the hot/cold 
> start circuit from
> what I can tell is the thermotime switch. I removed it from my old water 
> pump and replaced it
> in the new one. My question is, does the switch threads use the water pump 
> as a ground? I
> put teflon tape around the threads before reinstalling. This is my only 
> idea so far, as I do not
> know how this circuit works (what is being sent and triggered by the 
> switch) and haven't
> pulled out the multimeter yet to check it. Any comments are appreciated, 
> thanks.
>
> -Derek #10084 






Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

2b. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
    Posted by: "Elvis" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de dmcelvis
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:32 pm (PDT)

Yes the thread is used as a ground connection. Isolating it 
is not a great idea...

Elvis & 6548


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Derek" <derek.grozio_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I recently did a valley of death teardown and now the car seems to 
> have problems starting when cold. .... My question is, does the 
> switch threads use the water pump as a ground? I put teflon tape 
> around the threads before reinstalling. ... 

> -Derek #10084
>









Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

2c. Re: How does the thermotime switch work?
    Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:41 pm (PDT)

The thermotime switch grounds through the pump, then engine block, then ground strap.  It receives +12V when cranking via the starter solenoid (red/white wire).
 
Teflon tape is unnecessary.  One of the vendors once told me that if you look at the switch and you see that brown colored dot on the side of it, and the dot is cracked, discolored, or damaged, then the switch should be replaced.  Check to make sure the electrical plug is OK and also use a meter to verify +12 at cranking when the engine is stone cold.  I think it should have power for something like 8 seconds?
 
Andy 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek <derek.grozio_at_dml_verizon.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 03:41:03 -0000
Subject: [DML] How does the thermotime switch work?


I recently did a valley of death teardown and now the car seems to have problems 
starting 
when cold. The only thing I really touched thats involved in the hot/cold start 
circuit from 
what I can tell is the thermotime switch. I removed it from my old water pump 
and replaced it 
in the new one. My question is, does the switch threads use the water pump as a 
ground? I 
put teflon tape around the threads before reinstalling. This is my only idea so 
far, as I do not 
know how this circuit works (what is being sent and triggered by the switch) and 
haven't 
pulled out the multimeter yet to check it. Any comments are appreciated, thanks.

-Derek #10084





Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

3. Robert Rooney?
    Posted by: "erikgeerdink" erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com erikgeerdink
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:31 pm (PDT)

If you are on the list, could you please email me?

Thanks,
Erik
dmcerik(at)yahoo.com








Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

4a. Re: Optima Batteries?
    Posted by: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com daveswingle2
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:32 pm (PDT)

The real advantage (selling point) to the Optima is that it can't/won't 
leak acid all over your carpet in the event of overcharge i.e. when the 
alternator regulator fails or someone puts the wrong charger on it. As 
someone mentioned it's also safer in a accident since it is inside the 
car. I have heard(can't confirm this) that they also outgas a bit less 
which should lead to less corrosion in the electrical compartment. 

There are apparently other disadvantages. 

Dave S (Interstate user)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure what the hype is all about with these batteries.  I 
bought a 
> basic "Autocraft" battery from Advance Auto over a year ago and it's 
still 
> going strong, 12.6 volts.  I even had the car stored for 9 months and 
> brought the battery in the house during that time.  I didn't even 
have to 
> trickle charge it and it didn't loose a single volt.  









Messages in this topic (21)
________________________________________________________________________

4b. Re: Optima Batteries?
    Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:54 pm (PDT)

Hey Rich,

Thank you for the informative response. This makes perfect sense. I'm
betting my Optima will be fine, then - My grounds are tight, my
alternator is replaced, my cooling fans are John's low-profile, low
current fans, and my lock module is also upgraded for reduced standby
current. And I drive it regularly.

It sounds like the combination of dirty grounds, stock 25 year old
fans/alternator/lock module, along with periods of non-use and a
sealed battery that doesn't tolerate discharge as well as others is
the real problem here.

-Ryan

On 6/26/06, Tell you if you ask. <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
>
> I have gained unique battery experience with my recent experimentation
>  with owning and driving a pure electric vehicle for daily use. I've
>  researched battery types, behavior, vendors and cost in my quest
>  to "stick it to the man" by greatly reducing my need to buy gasoline.
>
>  1. Gasoline powered cars are not a proper application of the Optima
>  Yellow top. It is true that they are deep cycle but they are
>  not "marine" batteries. The Blue-tops are. Yellow tops are often used
>  in pure electric vehicles that require high performance, but not
>  necessarily long range.
>
>  2. Red tops do suffer from some manufacturing defects but we as
>  DeLorean owners exacerbate the problem with dirty grounds, and low,
>  but constant loads on the battery and long periods of non-use. Combine
>  this with the low alternator output and heavy cooling fan load from
>  OEM fans and these batteries often get more than their fair share of
>  abuse. The stock alternator/fan combo isn't so much of an issue if
>  your grounds are clean and tight and the alternator is working
>  CORRECTLY and doesn't have a few dead diodes.
>
>  3. I have only had to install 1 red-top in my DeLorean. I have
>  upgraded my lock module with lower capacitors and different
>  transistors to reduce the standby current, upgraded the alternator and
>  keep my grounds clean and tight. The battery has lasted over 3 years
>  so far, through all seasons, daily driving as well as extended periods
>  of non-use. I did not use a cut-off switch.
>
>  4. Optima batteries are an AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt), spiral-wound
>  cell construction, that does not vent explosive hydrogen gas when
>  charging (unless grossly overcharged), nor leak if you flip over in an
>  accident which is a Good Idea for batteries stored in the "people
>  space" like our cars and Corvettes. Wet-cell, flooded lead-acid
>  batteries are cheaper, and adequate for vehicles where the battery is
>  stored in the engine compartment. I wouldn't waste the money on an
>  Optima for my pick-up truck.
>
>  The bottom line is, the DeLorean must be healthy in order to keep the
>  battery healthy, what ever the type or vendor. If you prefer to use a
>  flooded, lead-acid battery, brands to avoid are "generic" brands
>  offered by Auto-zone and such, Exide, and certain Sears Die-hard
>  models. The lead plates are thin and of an out-dated design. A couple
>  of reliable brands are Interstate, and the Die-Hard "Gold" series. If
>  it seems like a 1000 cca battery is the only fix that works in your
>  car, it's only because the lead plates are thick enough to handle the
>  abuse that your car is dishing out in the form of poor grounding, weak
>  alternator output and constant drains from wiring problems and the old-
>  style lock module. You're just masking the real problem.
>
>  Mike Cohee's Optima for example, was probably slowly killed by his
>  faulty alternator. Now that his alternator is replaced, his grounds
>  are clean and he has Lockzilla, let's see how long the new one lasts.
>
>  If you like the AGM type battery, but don't trust Optima, Orbital
>  (made by Exide) and a few other marine battery manufacturers make a
>  similar battery. You may note that in one statement I recommend a
>  brand and in another statement I do not recommend the same brand. The
>  fact is, not all vendors make all bad or all good batteries.
>
>  Rich A.
>  #5335
>
>  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright_at_dml_...> wrote:
>  >
>  > Curious, I wonder how many of you drive your cars regularly and
>  still have
>  > problems with the Optimas? Is it possible the batteries just don't
>  like to
>  > sit? Do they discharge more quickly when not in use, or are they
>  otherwise
>  > less tolerant of being discharged too low?
>  >
>  > Does anyone really know the actual reason so many have had problems
>  with
>  > them?
>  >
>  > -Ryan
>  >
>
>
>
>
>                   





Messages in this topic (21)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

5a. Battteries, etc.
    Posted by: "Alan  Roberts" twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net twodelos2
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:44 pm (PDT)

Two things about batteries in Delorean Service.  First, look at COSTCO batteries (regular automotive type).  Their warrantee involves 100% replacement for a long period (2 years?) and their prices are quite competitive.

Second, if you look at Harbor Freight's fliers and pages one can regularly find their trickle charger for a reasonable amount (like $7.50).  I've had several here on various cars/batteries and they have seemed to be quite durable and reliable.  They also don't seem to boil the cells (last a long time).  My suggestion is to put a connector in the car and replace the clamps on the charger with the mating connector.  The connector doesn't have to be permanently mounted, but having it makes connecting/disconnecting easy and fast.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4639/#16049

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________

5b. Re: Battteries, etc.
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:42 pm (PDT)

Al, Not pushing Wal-Mart, But I have used there batteries for years due to
connivance and they have a 3year replacement warranty. The most important
thing is that any battery has to be tied down and not just stuck in the box
and think it will be ok. When you run over bumpy road the battery will
bounce around like using an impact wrench and will soon destroy itself. Also
keep in mind that the higher the CCA the closer the plates in the battery
are together and if not taken car of will render it useless quicker.
Tie it down. Also, If you need a foam rubber pad instead of a thin rubber
hard pad that came with the car, I have them for $3.00 ea.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Alan Roberts
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 12:26 PM
To: Postings DMC News
Subject: [DML] Battteries, etc.

Two things about batteries in Delorean Service.  First, look at COSTCO
batteries (regular automotive type).  Their warrantee involves 100%
replacement for a long period (2 years?) and their prices are quite
competitive.

Second, if you look at Harbor Freight's fliers and pages one can regularly
find their trickle charger for a reasonable amount (like $7.50).  I've had
several here on various cars/batteries and they have seemed to be quite
durable and reliable.  They also don't seem to boil the cells (last a long
time).  My suggestion is to put a connector in the car and replace the
clamps on the charger with the mating connector.  The connector doesn't have
to be permanently mounted, but having it makes connecting/disconnecting easy
and fast.

Al
Al Roberts
twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net
#4639/#16049





Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

6. Re: Putsch Performance
    Posted by: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com daveswingle2
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:45 pm (PDT)

Last I heard Casey folded up his tent and sold or otherwise turned over 
the design rights to SpecialTAuto, at least for the air box. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Anybody know if these guys are still around?  I sent an e-mail asking 
about the shifter knobs but it came back undeliverable.
> 







Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7. Electric car (was: Optima Batteries?)
    Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:46 pm (PDT)

BTW, would love to hear more about your electric car. I think I recall
you buying it, but haven't heard much since. How is that project
going?

-Ryan

On 6/26/06, Tell you if you ask. <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
>
> I have gained unique battery experience with my recent experimentation
>  with owning and driving a pure electric vehicle for daily use. I've
>  researched battery types, behavior, vendors and cost in my quest
>  to "stick it to the man" by greatly reducing my need to buy gasoline.





Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8a. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
    Posted by: "cupsdmc" cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com cupsdmc
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:48 pm (PDT)

I was afraid of that. I had read some posts regarding the Rack & 
Pinion and it didn't sound like I was going to be able to fix 
anything on it.  My car has 9700 miles. I'm guessing that the 
disinegration was do to not being used for 20+ years and now that I 
have put 1000 miles in the last year it did it in.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I saw that happen on a car that had maybe 2500 miles on it. The 
> bushing on the passenger-side end had just disintegrated. This is 
a 
> non-available part, so anyone who rebuilds the racks is having the 
> part made locally (it's very hard Nylon or Delrin-type plastic). 
To 
> replace it you also have to remove the inner tie-rod end which if 
I 
> recall correctly is pinned in place. 
> 
> The car that I saw this on was being driven but the complaint was 
> uneven steering and lots of clunking noises up front. No permanent 
> damage, but over time it would have beat up the end of the housing 
> and the rack itself. Unless you are a machinist, and can figure 
out 
> what the plastic parts were supposed to look like all in one 
piece, 
> you are probably in the market for a professionally rebuilt 
steering 
> rack. I think all the vendors are providing this as an exchange 
> service as this rack does not cross to any other car, and there 
are 
> no more new ones. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I noticed a clunking noise after unloading my car off my trailer 
> from 
> > Pheasant Run.  I finally got around to checking on it today and 








Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________

8b. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
    Posted by: "cupsdmc" cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com cupsdmc
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:48 pm (PDT)

Aren't these Deloreans wonderful!  Never a dull moment or a full 
bank account!  It just kills me to spend $350.00 for a $2.00 part.
Thanks for the input.
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> The vendors do not sell parts for the racks except for maybe the
> boots. They want to have the whole thing so they can rebuild it
> properly. I don't think anyone can say driving on that rack now 
would
> be safe knowing parts are crumbling out of it. Check the tie rod 
ends
> too and figure on sending the rack out for rebuild or exchange. 
When
> the rack comes back you will probably need an alignment to set the 
toe
> and center the steering wheel.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I noticed a clunking noise after unloading my car off my trailer 
from 
> > Pheasant Run.  I finally got around to checking on it today and 
the 
> > right front wheel had some slop in it.  I took off the wheel and 
> > noticed the slop is inside the boot(passanger side) on the rack 
and 
> > pinion steering.  I slid the boot off and a bunch of plastic 
crumbs 
> > came falling out.  It looks like it may have been a bushing in 
the end 
> > of the steering unit. I haven't been able to find a part on any 
of the 
> > vendors sites.  Do I need to replace my whole rack and pinion 
unit or 
> > can I simply replace the bushing.  Any suggestions would help as 
I have 
> > a show on the 4th of July and also the parade.  If I ran it a 
few miles 
> > without this bushing, would this be unsafe or cause any major 
damage?
> > 
> > Terry
> > 11572
> >
>









Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________

8c. Re: Rack & Pinion problems
    Posted by: "cupsdmc" cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com cupsdmc
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:52 pm (PDT)

Have you ever tried setting the alingment yourself?  I found 
directions to center the steering wheel. It didn't sound too hard, 
but getting the alignment just right could be difficult without an 
alingment rack.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_...> 
wrote:
>
> The vendors do not sell parts for the racks except for maybe the
> boots. They want to have the whole thing so they can rebuild it
> properly. I don't think anyone can say driving on that rack now 
would
> be safe knowing parts are crumbling out of it. Check the tie rod 
ends
> too and figure on sending the rack out for rebuild or exchange. 
When
> the rack comes back you will probably need an alignment to set the 
toe
> and center the steering wheel.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I noticed a clunking noise after unloading my car off my trailer 
from 
> > Pheasant Run.  I finally got around to checking on it today and 
the 
> > right front wheel had some slop in it.  I took off the wheel and 
> > noticed the slop is inside the boot(passanger side) on the rack 
and 
> > pinion steering.  I slid the boot off and a bunch of plastic 
crumbs 
> > came falling out.  It looks like it may have been a bushing in 
the end 
> > of the steering unit. I haven't been able to find a part on any 
of the 
> > vendors sites.  Do I need to replace my whole rack and pinion 
unit or 
> > can I simply replace the bushing.  Any suggestions would help as 
I have 
> > a show on the 4th of July and also the parade.  If I ran it a 
few miles 
> > without this bushing, would this be unsafe or cause any major 
damage?
> > 
> > Terry
> > 11572
> >
>








Messages in this topic (6)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9. Re: Coil spring question
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:51 pm (PDT)

The springs in the front suspension on a Delorean can move around in
the seats (perches) causing squeaks and clicks. Make sure the rubber
isolators are in good condition and you can spray silicone lubricant
on it. It is mostly the bottom perches that the spring moves in. Just
inspect everything thourghly to be sure no parts are cracked or worn.
Also lubricate the sway bar bushings. For them I like to take them
apart and use silicone grease. Go sparingly, a little bit goes a long
way. You can spray the control arm bushings too, just make sure they
are not loose. Lubricate the ball joints and the tie rod ends with a
heavy bodied lithium grease too. A dry joint will make all kinds of
clicks and noises. Check that the shocks are tight and the bushings
are not deformed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joshua Schwartz <Joshieloo_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Rich and others,
> I have a similar situation with my car with the Eibach kit. It makes
the 
> same sound you describe and seems to happen in the same situations you 
> mention, though originally it began on the drivers side, but now sounds 
> as though it comes from both sides. I seem to hear it more when I h







Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10. Re: Stainless Frame Features
    Posted by: "cbl1739" cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net cbl1739
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:52 pm (PDT)

The way the Frame/structure was engineered(for the front of the car)
was that the impact would BE absorbed THRU the Black body,and the 
frame would act like a stiffner for the black body,as of yet in my 
22yrs plus of owning Deloreans I have YET to see a Delorean with a 
Crushed Front frame structure,meaning up to the firewall,and I have 
had parts cars(deloreans)that had been involved in VERY serious 
accidents,and in ALL cases the crumple tubes were/had very minor 
damage,but the Nose on the black bodies were totally sheared
off,suggesting that the full force of the frontal impact was 
absorbed,throughout the black body,with only minor impact absorbed 
thru the frame itself.That was why he could get away with just using 
a mild steel frame,think about it some parts of the frame are the 
thickness of a DIME!!
But on the other hand the impact on the rear of the Delorean was 
engineered to be absorbed thru the the frame,(remember that it has 
hollow pontoons,that give next to zero impact resistance!)and the 
black body 
acting AS A stiffner,the opposite of the front of the car.(you will 
notice the back of the frame is MUCH beefer,than the front part,for 
this reason,and the fact that it contains the full drivetrain.If you 
ever had/have the chance to slice apart a scrap black body,(I have)
you will understand,the major engineering that went into the 
Designing of the Black body for your safety.

Regards
CBL
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Videobob,
> 
> Thank you for the comments.
> 
> In brief, the front upper and lower control arms are separate 
because  
> they can be used with a stock DeLorean frame.  This also allows  
> someone the option to limit the amount of money spent up front for 
a  
> Stainless frame.  I will calculate a package price for everything 
we  
> produce to incorporate some savings those that would like 
everything  
> Stainless and make it available on the web site.
> 
> The front crumple tube and frame for that matter, are designed 
with  
> the properties of Stainless Steel in mind.  This did require a 
great  
> deal of thought and correspondence with Mr. DeLorean.  The frame  
> needed to be completely redesigned for Stainless Steel and not 
just  
> copied from the steel frame.  We wanted the crumple tubes to be  
> strong enough not to require the safety recall but not too strong 
to  
> prevent them from performing their intended function.
> 
> -- 
> ===============================================
> Bryan Pearce
> Pearce Design Components
> 2N629 Jefferson St.
> West Chicago, IL  60185
> Phone:   (630) 293-0945
> Fax:     (630) 293-0944
> 
> DeLorean Part Fabrication
> ===============================================
> 
> 

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]




Messages in this topic (12)
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11a. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:53 pm (PDT)

Thanks John. Sounds like that switch is either faulty or needs to be
adjusted. Would it be normal for the switch to just shut the compressor down
completely? Last week it was over 100 degrees. My A/C ran great for about 5
to 10 minutes of driving; after that, the compressor just shut down and
never came back on.

-Ryan

On 6/26/06, John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
>
>   Ryan, The cycling switch screws onto the top of the accumulator and is
> also
> called the low pressure switch.
> The reason it cycles less in hot weather is because the hotter the air
> blowing over the evaporator coil the less it will cycle.
>
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
> Ryan Wright
> Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 2:56 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [DML] A/C cutting out
>
> I haven't -- What is this, where can I find it, and how do I adjust it?
>
> When I bought the car the A/C didn't work at all. A local shop
> replaced the low (?) pressure switch and that fixed it.
>
> I should add, this seems to be heat related. The hotter it is outside,
> the less time my compressor will cycle before something shuts it down.
>
> -Ryan
>
> On 6/24/06, John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com <john%40specialtauto.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ryan, have you replaced the cycling switch or adjusted it.
> > John Hervey
> > www.specialtauto.com
>
>  
>


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Messages in this topic (8)
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11b. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:38 pm (PDT)

Yes, That's why it's called a cycling switch. It's trying to protect the
evaporator from freezing up and causing problems.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Ryan Wright
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 10:36 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] A/C cutting out

Thanks John. Sounds like that switch is either faulty or needs to be
adjusted. Would it be normal for the switch to just shut the compressor down
completely? Last week it was over 100 degrees. My A/C ran great for about 5
to 10 minutes of driving; after that, the compressor just shut down and
never came back on.

-Ryan

On 6/26/06, John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
>
>   Ryan, The cycling switch screws onto the top of the accumulator and is
> also
> called the low pressure switch.
> The reason it cycles less in hot weather is because the hotter the air
> blowing over the evaporator coil the less it will cycle.
>
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com




Messages in this topic (8)
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12. Rooms at Gettysburg by Ken
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:54 pm (PDT)

For those of you whom did not reserve rooms then in a fit of panic called me and begged and pleaded for a room to Pheasant run I  hope you help me this time in signing up now.
 
There were at least 50 people that needed rooms and most of you ended up in the Hampton.
You all promised me that you would register early and you know who you are.  
(Yes I can name names) 
Only Three of you and yes I checked have signed up.
 
Its still up to you but I am not doing the room thing at Gettysburg.  It takes up too much time for me so this is a reminder to those of you whom PROMIESED me you would  not procrastinate again,
 
Remember 62% of you registered for the event after May 1 and about 50 of you were without rooms after May 1.   Some of you did not even get into the Hampton as I had to use the Mariotte and a few other places that I never mentioned.
 
I did this note because I am already getting people calling me to see if I can get them a King/courtyard room or a suite.
 
Ken
 
PS you are all going to love the changes at Gettysburg
 
 
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


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Messages in this topic (1)
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13. Re: DCS judging of cars
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:56 pm (PDT)

I had  about 100 cars judged so if everyone wanted their judging sheet that means 100 mailings (more work for me) then 200 calls and e-mails claiming they should not  have taken off for this or they should have counted more for that.  (again more work for me) 
I  know of no other show that does this other than the concours.
Its done by ISCA judges who do this a lot.  It is still subjective but for what we do it usually works out right.
 
So enjoy your cars and for those that won great for those that did  not 
work harder
 
Jeremy you were not the newest owner Mike did not speak up or register at the table so we will give him and you the trophy since  you are both new owners. He had his car three weeks and I sold it to him.
 
It will be reflected on the awards list
 
Ken 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: cupsdmc <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 01:59:25 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: DCS judging of cars


Well- I don't feel bad, not entering that category then. I got mine 
in August of 05' And yes, the judging sheets would be a nice thing 
to have. (Hint for Gettysburg)

Terry
11572

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Popp" <trentjus_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> I won for the "newest owner" as I bought my car sept '05. I am 
very 
> certain though that there was a newer owner there, because I met 
> him. I belive he has owned for only 3 weeks. Oh well, what can 
you 
> do. I would also be interested to know if the judging sheets are 
> available. I was in the 20-30k class and I thought my car was 
pretty 
> dang clean!
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cupsdmc" <cupsdmc_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > I had entered my car in the standard judging class (0-10,000 mi) 
at 
> DCS 
> > and was wondering if anyone knew how I could get the judging 
sheets 
> for 
> > my car. This is the first show that I have ever been a 
participant 
> in 
> > and I don't know what the judges look for. It would be a great 
> help to 
> > me, if I new what I was graded on. 
> > 
> > Also, does any one know how long the winner of the "Newest 
Delorean 
> > Owner" award has owned his Car? 
> > 
> > Terry
> > 11572
> > http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2257846
> >
>


 
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (11)
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14a. Full size glass - was: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
    Posted by: "Tom Tait" TTait_at_dml_BRCWEB.com thomasttait
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:58 pm (PDT)

Bob:

 

I assume you have a general plan for physical clearance issues,  but
what are you going to do about weight issues?  With the window down the
glass weight will be much further from the hinge, when it's up it will
be pretty close to stock door weight distribution.  Do you have a plan
to keep the door from sagging when the window is down?  Are you using
lexan or similar?

 

Tom Tait

 

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Bob Brandys
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 6:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Cross Section of a DeLorean door

 

Marv,

I did the patent search you recommended. Wow. DeLorean's name appears 
on at least 215 patents going back to his days at Packard. I don't 
think anyone has ever stated this.

Unfortunately, non of the images were of help for my purposes. I am 
going to be adding full size power windows to Ryan's D and want to 
start a video pod cast of the process and engineering details.

Bob

 



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Messages in this topic (2)
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14b. Re: Full size glass - was: Cross Section of a DeLorean door
    Posted by: "Bob Brandys" BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com bob6351
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:39 pm (PDT)

Tom,

I build and installed these full size power windows almost 10 years 
ago.  JZD came to Cleveland to see them and try them. He was really 
impressed and had a lot to say to me about them.

As for the weight and sagging issues, there are none.  The Lexan 
windows weigh less than the glass windows.  They are also easier to 
escape out of in case of a flip over.  They also don't break like glass 
in a side collision.

The lexan I use is the same as that used in Nascar and other race car 
windshields so it is very scratch resistant.

People are asking about my design again.  I plan on coverting Ryan's 
car to full size windows this winter.  However, I want to product a 
drawing of the door showing exactly how they fit.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bob






Messages in this topic (2)
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15. Replica
    Posted by: "gbsdelorean" gbsdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com gbsdelorean
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:36 pm (PDT)

A real project car….
I have been reading about the two (or is it 4?) DeLorean's that were 
gold plated, the thought occurred to try and replicate the feat.  I am 
sure the price would be astronomical to try and duplicate, but trying 
to obtain an original one is almost impossible.  Has anyone seriously 
looked into the possibility?
I know some will say it is heresy to even consider producing a 
replica, but then, what about making a replica of the BTTF car?
Let's see - with gold plating going for $1.20 per square inch…









Messages in this topic (1)
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16. Shifter knob
    Posted by: "Tom Watkins" outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com outatime81
    Date: Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:46 pm (PDT)

I heard from Casey regarding his shift knobs.  He is no longer making them.. Thanks to those that put me in touch with him.  I received another message steering me to another product that is a really nice looking stainless steel version of the current design.
   
  I am, however, looking for something similar to the one Casey was selling that has a bit more palm surface to it.
   
  1.  Does anyone know of a larger screw-in replacement?  I don't want one with a set screw.
  2.  What is the thread size for our shifter?
   
  Thanks
   
  Tom
  vin#05732


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Messages in this topic (1)
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