From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 8:17 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3310

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Need Eurofest coaster ;-(
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com


2. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
From: mike clemens


3a. Re: door marker lights
From: Christopher Mack

3b. Re: door marker lights
From: Elvis Nocita

3c. Re: door marker lights
From: Dave Swingle


4a. Re: Replica
From: Christopher Mack

4b. Re: Replica
From: David Teitelbaum

4c. Re: Replica
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com


5. Arm Extension Piece
From: Adam Lee


6. Re: Shift Knobs
From: Michael Fischer


7. Re: Rear axle nut size
From: Warren Wallingford


8. Re: Gold Cars
From: Mike Bosworth


9a. Re: A/C cutting out
From: James Espey

9b. Re: A/C cutting out
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com


10. Is My Idle OK?
From: Todd Nelson


11. Re: Product sub forums?
From: Bernie


12. DMC clock reproduction???
From: dmcmike2002


13a. Northeast & DML Forum Suggestion
From: delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net

13b. Re: Northeast & DML Forum Suggestion
From: Todd Nelson


14a. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
From: David Teitelbaum

14b. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
From: Elvis Nocita


15. Re: Stainless Frame Features - quality of welds - very long
From: Tom Niemczewski


16. Engine cranking
From: seanhagan


17. Re: Getting rid of trailing arm setup (was Stainless Frame Features)
From: S


18. Re: DMC back seat was: Getting rid of trailing arm setup
From: S



Messages

1. Need Eurofest coaster ;-(
Posted by: "deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com" deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com waernstnj
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:17 pm (PDT)

Odd request here- My son Rich and I went to the Millenium Eurofest a few years ago. It was his first time outside the country. We had a great time. Rich was the driving force in me getting a DeLorean rather than a ho hum Corvette.
The most visible memento was the glass coaster (or ashtray) from the DOA. My wife accidentally broke it while dusting and feels terrible about it. The DOA online store was closed when I looked. Anybody know where I can find a replacement? It's not something I've ever seen on eBay!

Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
Bridgeton, NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)

2. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
Posted by: "mike clemens" rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com rmclemns
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:19 pm (PDT)

Nick,

There are two wires that go into the horn stalk, one is purple (the hot lead) and the other is purple/black which carries the voltage out to the horns when you push the stalk. If one of yours is broken, then you will have to remove the steering wheel and remove the "combination switch". Once you have the "combination switch" off, you can remove the turn signal, dip, and horn switch portion and go in and try to repair the wire.

A word of CAUTION---------when you remove the two small hex screws that are holding the turn signal, dip, and horn switch to the metal plate, BE VERY, VERY, CAREFUL------there are several ball bearings underneath the metal plate that are spring loaded and they will fly out into the 'nether world' if jolted or even bumped, never to be found in your lifetime.

Now, to answer your other question, yes, you can install a push button (similar to a door bell button) and make the horns work. When you push on the stalk to blow the horns, all you are doing is connecting the purple wire to the purple/black wire. All you need to do is connect those two wires to a button somewhere convenient and you'll be in business.

Lastly, if you want to check to make sure the horns are working before you start tearing everything apart, just disconnect the connector that comes down from the switch and using a small jumper, connect the purple and purple/black utilizing the side with the female pins. Your horns should work as soon as you touch the two points together.

Let me know if this helps or if I can be of any help.
I've got my switch sitting here by the computer.

Mike TPS 1630



--- Nick Kemp <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net> wrote:

> The horns don't work. So I took apart the housing around the horn
> switch cluster and there is a loose wire. I thought it was PB but it
> has 12Vdc on it which, per the dwg, is P.
>
> ?Does anyone have a dwg or picture of the back side?
>
> ?Do you have to either pull the steering wheel or the steering
> assembly to get to the back side? (I wish I had found that when I
> replaced the bushing
> earlier this year:-( )
>
> ? Looks like it is soldered to the switch as opposed to a connector.
> Am I correct?
>
> ? Has anyone converted the steering wheel cover to a US style horn?
> If so how?
>
> De-Horned,
> Nick
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/377 - Release Date:
> 6/27/2006
>
>
>
>
>



Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com





Messages in this topic (2)

3a. Re: door marker lights
Posted by: "Christopher Mack" christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com christopher_mack
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:20 pm (PDT)

ED,

I don't know why that is happening. You could replace the door lights with LED's to reduce the current draw so that the fuse won't blow. Try it and let me know what happens

-Chris
DMC6453

rdcejc <rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net> wrote: Has anyone had trouble with the door marker light fuse blowing. It
seems that if I leave the door open for more than five minutes it
blows the fuse. I've put a larger 15amp fuse in but it blew too. Any
suggestions are welcome
Ed
6944





Messages in this topic (4)

3b. Re: door marker lights
Posted by: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de dmcelvis
Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:55 am (PDT)


Chris and Ed, that's the wrong way.
The bulbs shouldn't be able to blow the fuse so there is definitely a
short somewhere. Installing LED's will help nothing at all.

Also installing a higher rated fuse is the worst thing you can do !
All the bulbs together shouldn't suck more than 1-2Amps. When they
blow a 10A fuse there is a Problem, someting get's hot, something is touching Ground and with a higher rated fuse it gets hotter and may destroy even more !!!!!
Try to find out which door is the troublemaker (or the switch ?) and look for a short !

By the way - are there meanwhile any LED's out there that look at least
a bit like the bulbs ? I like the bulbs because they look like a star
and not just like a ugly red dot.

Elvis & 6548



> ED,
>
> I don't know why that is happening. You could replace the door lights
> with LED's to reduce the current draw so that the fuse won't blow. Try it
> and let me know what happens
>
> -Chris
> DMC6453
>
> rdcejc <rdcejc_at_dml_earthlink.net> wrote: Has anyone had trouble with the door
> marker light fuse blowing. It
> seems that if I leave the door open for more than five minutes it
> blows the fuse. I've put a larger 15amp fuse in but it blew too. Any
> suggestions are welcome
> Ed
> 6944
>
>
>

--


"Feel free" 10 GB Mailbox, 100 FreeSMS/Monat ...
Jetzt GMX TopMail testen: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/topmail





Messages in this topic (4)

3c. Re: door marker lights
Posted by: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com daveswingle2
Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:56 am (PDT)

There is something wrong with the wiring. I've chased this down in at
least one car and found that critters in the door had chewed thru the
wiring causing it to short against the body. Cleaning up the wiring
and removing the dead mice solved the problem. Mice love the
airconditioner ducting and it leads them right into the doors.

(sarcasm note) If you keep putting in bigger fuses you'll eventually
find the problem, by burning up the wiring (not recommended!).

Dave S

I'll bet Bernie didn't know that C&B was a former habitrail.....

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christopher Mack
<christopher_mack_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> ED,
>
> I don't know why that is happening. You could replace the door
lights with LED's to reduce the current draw so that the fuse won't
blow. Try it and let me know what happens
>
> -Chris
> DMC6453
>
> rdcejc <rdcejc_at_dml_...> wrote: Has anyone had trouble with the door
marker light fuse blowing. It
> seems that if I leave the door open for more than five minutes it
> blows the fuse. I've put a larger 15amp fuse in but it blew too.
Any
> suggestions are welcome
> Ed
> 6944








Messages in this topic (4)

4a. Re: Replica
Posted by: "Christopher Mack" christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com christopher_mack
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:20 pm (PDT)

Matt,

4300 was actually driven betwen 1-2K miles. There is an article on 4300 in a recent past issue of DeLorean World. Not sure which issue, but I have the issue at home

-Chris
DMC6453

conundrum1984 <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote: 20105's panels were plated at the same time as the first two cars.
they were actually a spare set of panels for the first two incase
something happened to them. Well, nothing happened because 4300 and
4301 were never driven. Except for the passenger side door, they
did not have that one in gold when building 20105. So they plated
another door and the gold plating on this one is actually darker. I
don't know how the gold on that door would hold up compared to the
rest of the panels. But looking at it you can definately tell it is
different. Also, if I remember correctly, I believe 20105 actually
has the rough pontoon surface of the early cars. But don't hold me
on that.

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" wrote:
>
> THE major problem with Gold plating a Delorean,is rock chips,and
the
> sand blasting effect at speed,from dust and debris,and from what I
> was told the two orignal gold plated Deloreans were done in a
simular
> fashion as a cheap gold watch,meaning that even rubbing against a
> gold plated delorean,can cause possible $$$$ imperfections,that is
> the reason no one was allowed near/or to touch the orignal Gold
> plated Deloreans,and special gloves,and overcoats had to be
worn,when
> in contact with one of the gold plated cars,in a nutshell unless
you
> are related to Bill Gates,and can afford to replate,every so
> often,when the plating starts wearing off,(and it will,if
driven/used)
> it is just not worth it. On 20105 I am not sure of the quality of
the
> gold plating,but assume it was done to a better degree than the
> orignal two factory cars,even tho they used the "spare panels" to
> make that car.
> CBL




Messages in this topic (11)

4b. Re: Replica
Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:36 pm (PDT)

What would probably be affordable and more rugged would be to polish
the S/S to a mirror finish. This is done all the time for elevator
work in fancy buildings. It would take a while but the results would
be stunning. Plating a car would require a complete tear-down and
reassembly. S/S can be plated in many different shades, it comes down
to what you want to spend. You must consider the cost of the
disassembly/reassembly, plating, shipping, insurance, and the usabilty
of the car after you do all of the work.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Chris Murley" <qumefox_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> On 6/27/06, cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > THE major problem with Gold plating a Delorean,is rock chips,and the
> > sand blasting effect at speed,from dust and debris,and from what I
>








Messages in this topic (11)

4c. Re: Replica
Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:49 pm (PDT)



I "heard" from someone that there is a guy in/was in Detroit about ten years
ago who had a DeLorean and he got the stainless panels anodized red.
Supposedly it was great because once the panels were stripped of other parts, the
whole part got anodized so it was red on the insides, door jams, etc. It was
even better than painting because of course it still had the grain, it was
just colored stainless steel. Not sure if this is true or not but it sure
makes you want to find out if it would work! If it does, this is what DMC should
have been looking into instead of the Dupont paints.

Andy



In a message dated 6/28/2006 3:31:43 P.M. Central Standard Time,
qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com writes:

A chrome plated D would probably be a funny sight too. Is it
possible to anodize stainless like it is aluminum? I think that might look
neat as well. I guess the outer stainless panel construction of
the deloreans make ideas like this possible, when it'd be a royal pain on
any other car.





Fargo, ND
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (11)

5. Arm Extension Piece
Posted by: "Adam Lee" delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com delorean852003
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:22 pm (PDT)

I was wondering if anyone had a black or gray armrest extension for
the drivers side they are willing to sell. Mine is gone in 1913 and
would like to get this piece covered to complete my interior. Do any
vendors carry this piece?

Thanks,
Adam Lee
#1913

delorean85(at)hotmail.com








Messages in this topic (1)

6. Re: Shift Knobs
Posted by: "Michael Fischer" michael.fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com stainless_steel_dream
Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:24 pm (PDT)

Hey Tom

The D's shifter thread pattern is 8mm x 1.25 .... (thanks to Walter Coe
about 3 years ago for that info)

Whether that one will fit.. Not a clue... But 8mm x 1.25 is the same thread
pattern as the 05-06 Dodge SRT4, LX, Magnum etc.

Mike
17106

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Tom Watkins
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 8:39 AM
To: DMC News
Subject: [DML] Shift Knobs

So....how does one tell if a non-oem shift know will fit?  Here is one I
like the looks of but it doesn't really give enough information.
   
  http://www.cardomain.com/item/RAZRA96
   
  Any thoughts?
   
  Thanks
   
  tom






Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7. Re: Rear axle nut size
    Posted by: "Warren Wallingford" warren_at_dml_usadmc.com dmc_warren
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:31 pm (PDT)

Ed B. wrote:
> Can anybody confirm the size of the nut on the rear hub/axle?  Is it 
> 32mm (1-1/4")? Part number is 108514.  I could have sworn I had a socket 
> for it but I can't find it.  I need to get a new socket to remove the 
> nut & I'd rather avoid taking the wheel off, measuring, putting it back 
> on, etc. if somebody has the quick answer...
> I know, I'm lazy... :-)
> 
> - ed
> 
Inch and a quarter is correct.  Use air tools.  It's on really tight and 
ithat's a funny self-locking nut.
Warren at DMC







Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8. Re: Gold Cars
    Posted by: "Mike Bosworth" mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com bozzzydmc
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:32 pm (PDT)

Hi Marc

Yes im still wondering which car has this door and if the owner 
actually knows this bit of info. That includes gold plating on 
the 'inside' of the door structure, must be some extra weight on 
that poor old torsion bar eh ! :)

.....Wouldnt mind a couple of those DMC badges he had as well eh :)

Mike
#2001

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> All 3 sets of panels for the gold cars were made at
> the same time!  Why would one be better quality than
> another?
> 
> Interesting story, but the DOC had the guy who made
> the gold cars speak to us at dinner.  Apparently, they
> were tight on time and one of the doors was not masked
> before they plated it...  and that door has gold
> plating INSIDE as well.
> 
> 
> --- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_...> wrote:
> 
> > it is just not worth it. On 20105 I am not sure of
> > the quality of the 
> > gold plating,but assume it was done to a better
> > degree than the 
> > orignal two factory cars,even tho they used the
> > "spare panels" to 
> > make that car.
> > CBL
> >
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>









Messages in this topic (11)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9a. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "James Espey" james_at_dml_delorean.com dmchelp
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 6:39 pm (PDT)

Don't believe the hype.

John is insinuating here that buying a NOS compressor is not as good
as one of his. This "scare tactic" that he's used for the last couple
years is especially unfounded in this regard. The compressors that we
sell are sealed box, sealed units that we install on the $40K plus
remanufactured cars here, as well as installed on restored and service
cars that come in our shop. These are the same units sold and
installed by DMC Florida, PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center - not to
mention hundreds of all of their and our mail order customers over the
years - far more DeLoreans than John Hervey ever has worked on or I
believe ever will work on.

As Ryan noted, our $195 NOS A/C compressors come with an NOS sealed
accumulator and new orifice tube.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> Ryan, 
> Anytime you open up the AC system it's always recommended that the
> accumulator and orifice is always replaced. Some companies won't
extend any
> kind of warranty if it's not done when replacing a compressor. 
> Becarefull in buying another 25 year old compressor to replace a 25
year old
> one. (SNIP)








Messages in this topic (16)
________________________________________________________________________

9b. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com" PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com p12c16
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:56 pm (PDT)

A NOS A/C compressor is also a great way to dress up the engine compartment 
for that special touch.   I have seen so many D's that have freshly 
painted/powdercoated intakes and valve covers, but the old A/C compressors tend to look 
grungy after 25 years of use.   I saw Ken Koncelik's engine after he put on a 
NOS A/C compressor, and I was tempted to order one myself it looked so good.    
 

-Patrick C.
1880

In a message dated 6/28/06 9:40:07 PM, james_at_dml_delorean.com writes:


> 
> As Ryan noted, our $195 NOS A/C compressors come with an NOS sealed
> accumulator and new orifice tube.
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (16)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10. Is My Idle OK?
    Posted by: "Todd Nelson" tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu todddmc12
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:01 pm (PDT)

List:

The idle on my car seems to be a little rough, this could be due to it using a very old mechanical fuel injection system or it could be something else.  As this is the only DeLorean I've ever seen, much less driven, I'm not sure what I should expect from the car as far as idle quality, and startup ease is concerned.  When started, which can sometimes take a little help from the throttle pedal, the idle will fluctuate slightly, according to the in car tachometer it doesn't appear to be too bad, maybe 50 RPM's.  However a short time later the idle will sag maybe 150 RPM then pick itself up again, it will continue in this cycle until I begin to drive it, at which time it may reappear.  Upon inspection of the engine when idling I will notice that it does seem to shake a little more than I would consider normal.  When sitting at a stop light you can really feel the car rumble, I kind of like it, but if it's not normal then I should do something about it.  When I bought the car I noticed that the cap to the mixture screw was gone, assuming the mixture was set incorrectly I used the dwell meter approach connected to the diagnostic plug to watch the readings while the car was at running temp.  Needless to say it was off, not swinging between 45 degrees.  However I am unable to get it to a steady swing, sometimes swinging between 45 and 50, sometimes 35 and 40, sometimes 40 and 50, I will notice this with the screw in the same place.  The mixture screw hole is plugged during these readings, it just seems more erratic than it should.  This leads me to think there is a vacuum leak of some kind in the system.  Although this seems unlikely since I have replaced all of the engine vacuum hoses, intake O-rings, "air horn" paper and rubber O-rings, cold start valve and tube O-rings, fuel distributor to mixture unit O-ring and the paper gasket between the two halves of the mixture unit.

I have used the propane method for finding leaks, but it has proved unsuccessful.  What seems odd is as a test I removed the air cleaner while the engine was idling and "squirted" some propane directly in the intake to see/hear the results, but surprisingly nothing happened, this didn't seem right to me.  I thought it could be the constant idle speed system regulating the idle, but this seems unlikely as I wouldn't suspect it to function that quickly.  At any rate I disabled the system by unplugging the ISM and manually idling the car by using the "brass screws".  I experienced the same results.  The only other running problem I've noticed is when manually working the throttle spool I can just barely hear a quiet pop like a small backfire, just when holding at a constant high RPM.  When driving the car it's completely unnoticeable.  Other than that the car runs fine, acceleration seems good and power seems to be normal.  Then again, I've never driven another DeLorean.  Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

11. Re: Product sub forums?
    Posted by: "Bernie" bmanderville_at_dml_comcast.net bmdmc
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:05 pm (PDT)

Tom, 

You can post on either DMCHELP.COM or DMCTALK.COM for those
subcatagories.   We all, well most, read the DML, but sub cats are not
germane to this group.  This group is an on going discussion of
problems with the cars.  Perfect example is the Red Top Optima battery
thread, I have posted even earlier about this battery and the problem
came up again.

Bernie

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Tait" <TTait_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> An idea like this was floated a month or two ago, but this is a little
> different and maybe of interest.
> 
> How about adding a section to the Main DMCnews area where we can post
> information specifically on products.  
> 
> I'm sure I remember posts from months ago that the Optima batteries were
> great - now I have one in my car and another thread has come up letting
> me know they are awful.
> 
> I thought I had researched pretty well on alternators and bought a
> popular upgrade item, only to learn afterwards that a higher amperage
> model requires a higher rpm just to kick in - I would have purchase
> differently if I had known that.
> 
> I almost purchased a much more expensive automatic antenna, but in that
> case I found a good option at a much lower cost.
> 
> With the choices for aftermarket items on the market it seems like sub
> forums with specific product reviews for batteries, tires, which oil,
> alternators, AC accumulators, aftermarket frames, etc. would be very
> helpful.  If the members and moderators work to ensure it's not about
> ongoing online arguments between vendors and owners it could remain
> concise and helpful.  In fact I would suggest that vendors/manufacturers
> be encouraged to only include links to a product page and application
> notes for the item.  That is the page they could showcase their own
> information on the item and answer criticisms of it in one place/message
> (application notes?) rather than a series of posts.
> 
> Picture finding a structure like this:

[Very, very long quote trimmed by moderator]




Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

12. DMC clock reproduction???
    Posted by: "dmcmike2002" billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net dmcmike2002
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:42 pm (PDT)

This goes out to any of the vendors who could get this moving. With 
all the new parts that keep coming out I dont here many people asking 
about the DMC clock. Maybe I just answered my own questions but I 
would think this would be a relatively easy thing to reproduce. I know 
most of us have clocks on the new radio's we all install but it would 
be nice to have my original clock working. Houston? any chance you 
could put this on your list of possible parts?

Mike C 
2109







Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

13a. Northeast & DML Forum Suggestion
    Posted by: "delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net" delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net 
    Date: Wed Jun 28, 2006 8:10 pm (PDT)

Just an idea to continue making the DMC community closer
Most people already include their name and VIN numbers in their "signature/tag lines."  I thought it would be nice for people who post on Northeast & DML Forums to also include their location (i.e. State) as well.  I do not think this posses a security issue, nor does it seem too inconvenient, but I would like to know what other think.  I know that if I saw someone post from one of the New England states I would probably contact them and let them know that I was close by.
What does everyone else think?
Jason
MA/RI
10648
6441
2449
1548
  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (2)
________________________________________________________________________

13b. Re: Northeast & DML Forum Suggestion
    Posted by: "Todd Nelson" tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu todddmc12
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:14 am (PDT)

[DML] Northeast & DML Forum SuggestionJason:

I've been doing that from the beginning, so yeah, I think it's a good idea.  I know this is how I got "involved" in the New England DMC group since you saw my location and emailed me.  A person posting their state is also how I found another owner in VT, probably the only other one.  However, given how many paranoid people won't even give their real name or a name at all, I think it'll be hard to make this effective, but it's definitely worth a shot.

Todd Nelson
1561
Shelburne, Vermont, USA, North America, Earth, Milky Way, Virgo Supercluster
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: delorean12_at_dml_comcast.net 
To: NortheastDMC_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
Cc: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Northeast & DML Forum Suggestion


Just an idea to continue making the DMC community closer.
Most people already include their name and VIN numbers in their "signature/tag lines."  I thought it would be nice for people who post on Northeast & DML Forums to also include their location (i.e. State) as well.  I do not think this posses a security issue, nor does it seem too inconvenient, but I would like to know what other think.  I know that if I saw someone post from one of the New England states I would probably contact them and let them know that I was close by.
What does everyone else think?
Jason
MA/RI
10648
6441
2449
1548


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (2)
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14a. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
    Posted by: "David Teitelbaum" jtrealty_at_dml_optonline.net jtrealtywebspannet
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:43 am (PDT)

Raise the car and make sure when you step on the brake pedal each
wheel is held tight by the brake system. You could have a caliper that
is frozen or maybe a bad master cylinder or a hose. Assuming the brake
system stops each wheel try driving the car with the vacuum hose to
the brake booster removed and plugged off. If you do not notice any
difference with the booster connected or not then it is probably bad.
There is no diffinitive test except on a test bench. The brakes on a
Delorean are not great but they are good (at least when they are
working right). If you did not get all of your parts from one of the
Delorean vendors maybe it is possible you did not get the right parts.
The wrong master cylinder can have a large effect. As can the brake
pads. Look inside the vacuum hose and see if it shows any sign of
wetness. If it does you can assume the booster is bad and you are
sucking brake fluid through it. A final possibilty is a
way-out-of-adjustment pushrod. This is not easy to diagnose. It is the
small rod that comes out of the booster and pushes on the master
cylinder. It has an adjustable end to make it longer or shorter. If it
is too long the brakes won't release (compensate properly), too short
and you have to move the brake pedal too much to get the brakes to work. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> A few question about the brake booster/servo:
> 
> My braking is the pits: I can slam the brakes on, hold with all my
force 
> and I will not lock the wheels up.  The car does stop, but it's nowhere 
> 








Messages in this topic (3)
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14b. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
    Posted by: "Elvis Nocita" elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de dmcelvis
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:43 am (PDT)

Ed,

do you feel a difference at the break pedal when the engine is
off or when it is on ?
When on, the pedale should be much easier to be pushed.

BTW - what is a "vacuum noise" ?

How many miles have you put on the new (?) pads ?

When bleeding new capilers you have to make sure that the 
outer side has no more air trapped in it ! Just regular 
bleeding won't get it out !


The vacuum line ends on the right side in the engine bay
where it goes to a T-piece and splits up for the vacuum reservoir
and where it connects to the right side of the intake manifold.

Elvis & 6548 - with the larger Ford Granada Calipers

-------- Original-Nachricht --------
Datum: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 18:32:43 -0400
Von: "Ed B." <mr.pants_at_dml_ca.inter.net>
An: DMC_News <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Betreff: [DML] Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting

> A few question about the brake booster/servo:
> 
> My braking is the pits: I can slam the brakes on, hold with all my force 
> and I will not lock the wheels up.  The car does stop, but it's nowhere 
> near what it should be in terms of rate of deceleration.  This is at 
> around 15mph in my driveway.  At higher speeds, I do slow down, but 
> again, it seems really poor and I have to apply a LOT of pressure to get 
> decent braking.  I'd be screwed if I had to do a panic stop at speed.  
> All brake components are good/new: master cylinder, calipers, rotors, 
> pads, fluid, all is properly bled, no air in the M.C.  I know the 
> DeLorean brakes are not the greatest, but this is terrible. 
> 
> Would a bad servo cause weak braking?  I removed the vacuum hose from 
> the servo and there is nice suction from it when the engine is running.  
> I also did a crude test of the check valve by connecting separate, short 
> hose to the check valve inlet and I cannot blow through, but I can draw 
> (albeit with difficulty and not freely), indicating the check valve is 
> functioning, right?  I do hear a faint hissing around the servo, but it 
> doesn't sound like a leak - more like the vacuum noise inside the hose.  
> What else can i check?
> 
> How do I check if the actual servo/booster itself is good?  The manual 
> does not seem to be much help here -  it doesn't even show where the 
> other end of the vacuum line goes in the engine bay...
> 
> Thanks...
> - ed
>
-- 


"Feel free"  10 GB Mailbox, 100 FreeSMS/Monat ...
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Messages in this topic (3)
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15. Re: Stainless Frame Features - quality of welds - very long
    Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:50 am (PDT)

Hello Bryan

I feel that this is a very important topic and in my opinion it should be 
discussed in public so everyone knows about possible problems. If like you 
say the problems were taken care of why do you feel it is inappropriate to 
talk about it on the DML? You should be glad that everyone gets to know how 
much work went into those frames and that possible problems were addressed 
and resolved.
In reply to your post... Yes, you are right, I have based my evaluation of 
the welds on appearance. I did not have a chance to x-ray those welds and I 
did not have a chance to cut one to pieces. BUT, what is important is 
clearly visible without penetration of the welds. On the frame you had on 
display in Memphis it was clearly visible that the welds were not complete, 
with holes and very uneven. Just by looking at it anyone who has welding 
experience can tell that the joint was not complete and did not have full 
strength connection between parts. I took some pictures of that frame and I 
can upload them to the group.
I'm glad to hear that the problem of poor welding was resolved to the point 
where experts actually praise the quality. Do you have any pictures of 
current frames? I would like to see a close up view of some welds. I would 
like to see a close up of the TAB area. This is where the most important 
joints are for rear suspension as well as the area where the frame splits 
into two around the engine. I have a picture of that area from Memphis and 
would like to be able to see the improvement. Please upload a picture to the 
groups photo section. Also, would you happen to have anything stating that 
the critical welds were tested or checked for completeness and strength? 
X-ray, cut apart, load tested?
I did not want to mention any names without a permission from that person, 
but since you posted the name I can say that yes, that was the frame I saw. 
It was a third frame I saw in person. First one is the one on your red car, 
the second one was on display in Memphis and Walter's was third. All three 
looked pretty much the same with very poor welds.
Bryan, the issue I am talking about is the quality of the welds.... It's 
very nice of you that you offered a full refund for that frame but don't you 
think that frames of that quality should NEVER reach a customer?
I have started this discussion because as you might remember I was 
interested in getting one of your frames for my car. After seeing them in 
person however, I've changed my mind... I still want a stainless steel frame 
and I wanted to know what was done to improve your product. It was a great 
idea on your part to build that frame and everyone should and probably will 
eventually have a stainless frame on their car but you have to remember that 
it is a FRAME. A part that supports the entire car and suspension 
components. The frame experiences great forces and it needs to be as strong 
as possible. A frame that has welds that are so uneven... with holes cannot 
be rated as perfectly safe product. I'm glad that your frame is performing 
so good on your car and that other cars are fine too, but at the same time 
you have to remember that a component like that has to be build to withstand 
extreme situations. The frame might be fine for 20 years of normal driving 
but what if someone hits a large rock at highway speeds and the welds on the 
shock tower give way? I wish that something like that never happens but you 
have to think about things like that when building and selling a frame. I 
see that a lot of work went into the planning phase (all those drawings and 
measurements) but what about the execution? What happened there?
When I compared the welds on the control arms to the welds on the frame I 
was talking about the quality and completeness of those welds. They are even 
with both sides of the joint equally melted and fused together. The welds on 
the frame are a different story with one side melted all the way through and 
the other just barely heated or in some cases it seems like there is just 
material added on top without actual joining of the steel. That creates a 
weak joint. I can upload a picture with marked problem areas.
Bryan, please upload some pictures of the recent frames so anyone can see 
the improvement. This will be a great advertisement for you BTW. But if, 
just IF you still have a problem with the welding... why don't you simply 
hire someone else to do it right? You should x-ray all the critical joints 
on every frame to make sure they are safe. And they should be done by a 
professional. It's not really that expensive....
All it takes for a disaster to strike is ONE bad joint that fails at some 
point in time..... You have to do everything you can to make sure it doesn't 
happen.

PS. I apologize for misspelling your name Bryan


Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 5225'17.30"N 21 1'58.00"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bryan Pearce"
Tom, your evaluation of the welds on a PDC frame are based strictly
on appearance.  This is one method of evaluating the weld.  The other
is penetration of the weld for longevity and stability.  As with any
new endeavor, the appearance of the welds has improved significantly
since the beginning of this project.  All of the welds have always
been quality welds.  We have talked to our share of "expert" welders
of Stainless Steel and received praises for taking on the task of
building a car chassis out of Stainless and putting it together so
well.  The prototype Stainless Frame remains in use under my daily
driver with over 130,000 on the frame and no problems.  I also know
of other owners with Stainless frames without any problems.  You
don't have to feel "scared" in a DeLorean with one of our frames.

As for the frames you have examined, I believe one of the frames
belonged to Walter Coe in Florida.  This was an early frame.  You
know Walter and you did resided in Florida for a time.  Many long
time DMLers are familiar with Walter's issue with one of our frames.
This issue was addressed several years ago with him privately.
However Tom, since you have decided to make this posting to the
group, I will tell everyone that I spoke with Walter at great length
about the frame and offered a full refund.  The refund offer was
never accepted.

I am not going to turn this into a welding lesson, but compare the
welds on the inside of the front lower control arms to the majority
of welds on the frame.  You will see that they look almost the same.
You say the welds on the front lower control arms are a "thing of
beauty" but the exterior surface welds on the arms are a different
type of weld than the interior.  Additionally, the front lower arms
are electro polished.  The size of the frame makes electro polishing
costly.

If you wish to continue this conversation, please do so privately via
e-mail or phone.
-- 
===============================================
Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components
2N629 Jefferson St.
West Chicago, IL  60185
Phone:   (630) 293-0945
Fax:     (630) 293-0944

DeLorean Part Fabrication
===============================================






Messages in this topic (1)
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16. Engine cranking
    Posted by: "seanhagan" seanhagan_at_dml_yahoo.com seanhagan
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:53 am (PDT)

I posted here a few weeks ago about trying to get my car started 
after replacing the entire fuel system (all except the gas tank) I 
have found that the correct position for the inertia switch plunger 
is down. :-)... So i got the car up and running with a terrible 
idle... ranging from just over 600 to about 1200 swinging up and 
down. 

Recieved a post from Rob, and he stated that I may need to adjust my 
air intake adjuster knob/3mm allen wrench adjustable bolt under what 
appears to be a bottle brush handle between the distributor and the 
air filter setup. 

So my point is that I did have the car running. I tried to start her 
up tonight (it ran saturday), and it started up for a second, then 
died. It will no longer restart at this point in time. It just seems 
to crank non-stop without the incling of a turnover (which would be 
nice to hear).

I did validate that the pump is pumping gas, and you can hear it and 
the frequency valve when you just turn the key without taking it to 
the start position. 

Any thoughts?







Messages in this topic (1)
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17. Re: Getting rid of trailing arm setup (was Stainless Frame Features)
    Posted by: "S" theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com theborderisopen
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:14 am (PDT)

> A 4 door, 4
> seater Delorean! 
> I figure this power upgrade was in preparation to
> enlarge the DMC-12.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 

I often wonder if the Brits would have kept the project alive without 
the Delorean name if the first car had been more of a people hauler.  
Maybe would have found its way into the TVR line up for the rest of 
the 80s or something.











Messages in this topic (19)
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18. Re: DMC back seat was: Getting rid of trailing arm setup
    Posted by: "S" theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com theborderisopen
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:16 am (PDT)

[Moderator Note: This is straying off topic.  Unless you hae something DeLorean realated, please do not reply to the discussion of back seats.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2006 8:38:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> dmcjohn_at_dml_... writes:
> 
> I know  the leg room is going to be very 
> tight back there, and maybe its too  tight, but with the front 
seats 
> pulled forward, there might be enough  room. Anyway, its more for 
kids 
> than adults...>>
> I saw a child in the "back seat" who rode from Germany to the 
prior  
> Eurofest. Ok, only halfway in the back. The parents somehow 
installed a  child seat 
> between the bucket seats, more or less further back than theirs.  
Don't know if 
> they had to modify the parcel shelf to do it. As to whether I'd  
ever let my 
> two youngest kids ride stacked two deep and belted in,  for an 
emergency short 
> ride... no comment. 
> 

You're the parent, but I think as a society we're going way too far 
with that kind of stuff.  Think of all the stuff I, and probably 
you, were allowed to do:  3 wheelers (including more than a few 
models designed specifically for kids 5-12 years old,) riding in the 
back of a pickup, some of us didn't even have child seats, and no 
one wore a stupid bicycle helmet.  Now they're even cancelling 
school sports in some places due to safety concerns.  I always 
thought the space between the seats, with some mods made, could be a 
good place for a secured child seat...
 








Messages in this topic (2)
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